Front axle nylons?

[John_H]

Hi,

My FXR bucket is nearly ready now, just a few things left to do. I need to put some front nylons on but not sure how, I don't have a lath or a tap. Any help or alternatives would be appreciated.

Thanks

[hmurphy]

I just used thin chopping board, cut it into the shape shown in the attached picture and bent it to 90 degress in boiling water. I then used two hose clamps to hold it on the bottom of the fork and it would overlap the axle when in place. It worked well in crashes. Never came off and protected the track and axle well. Only downside is having to take them off and put them on when doing tyre changes (it takes a little longer than nylon that can be screwed into the axle).

[John_H]

I just used thin chopping board, cut it into the shape shown in the attached picture and bent it to 90 degress in boiling water. I then used two hose clamps to hold it on the bottom of the fork and it would overlap the axle when in place. It worked well in crashes. Never came off and protected the track and axle well. Only downside is having to take them off and put them on when doing tyre changes (it takes a little longer than nylon that can be screwed into the axle).

Cheers Hamish. That makes sense now with the diagram.

[javawocky]

Am doing mine soon, was thinking of using a big strapping cable tie. What is this hose clamp you speak of and if its metal won't it damage the track?

[hmurphy]

Yes it's metal and can be wound up very tight. Usually you put the adjusters between the wheel and the fork (if that makes sense) because they stick out a little bit. They are the bit you use a screwdriver to tighten them up with. Only the bottom corner of the fork/plastic hits the ground in a crash the clamp doesn't scratch the track, and even a bit of the hose clamp metal was to touch the ground I guarantee the clamp is gonna come off way worse than the track. It's soft shit.

[John_H]

Next question:

I know you can't remember this Hamish but roughly how much should I raise the foot pegs by? Should they go up and back?

Cheers

[hmurphy]

Up 40 back 40. I dunno haha. Andrew Adlam raised his somewhere around 40 but also put them back quite a fair bit. It felt fine. I am pretty sure Rich hasn't raised his at all (or even put them back...?) but he has a different shock which is giving him a different ride height due to the angle of the swingarm. I think I'm correct with that one. With the stock shock and stock hangers you will grind off your footpegs completely - mine turned into sharp knives.

[F5 Dave]

think its mainly the muffler needs moving isn't it?


+ keep it quiet, don't just gut it.

[John_H]

Exhaust is being sorted shortly, hopefully have it all mounted by the weekend. Not sure about 40 up and 40 back though hamish. Would that be a bit severe?

[bungbung]

Another approach using skateboard wheels and u-bolt pipe clamps:263373

[John_H]

Another approach using skateboard wheels and u-bolt pipe clamps:263373

It's a good idea but wouldn't it just turn and be non effective when you crash?

[F5 Dave]

A further one is the same wheels but turned 90 degrees & no bolt, but with a hose clamp through the hole & around the fork leg or swingarm.

[bungbung]

It's a good idea but wouldn't it just turn and be non effective when you crash?

The clamp holds tight under crash conditions. I tested them a lot.

[richban]

I am pretty sure Rich hasn't raised his at all (or even put them back...?) but he has a different shock which is giving him a different ride height due to the angle of the swingarm. I think I'm correct with that one.

Yeah mine are standard position at the moment. They do hit the deck but I just pick the bike up if they do. If I could be bothered and wasn't building a new bike I would move them 20 up and maybe 30 back and also jack my seat hight 20 up at the same time.

[F5 Dave]

I've moved mine down as too far up is a pain in the ankles. Have to be comfortable to ride fast.

[hmurphy]

Mine were ground to nearly halfway with stock setup. My ZXR footpegs have had to be raised 40 and back 20 and I still hit the ground with them, just not as much. It also depends on how you ride the bike. Some people use lean angle more than others (depending on how much you hang off, approach corners etc). My Dad hits the footpegs on my bike more than I do and I am lapping about 2 seconds quicker (until he comes out and decides to have another go). It's a comfort thing as much as it's a ground clearance thing. I quite liked Andrew Adlams set up which had the footpegs very far back and up a reasonable amount too.

Just make a steel plate with 6 holes in it. 2 for mounting to frame, 2 holes that are 20mm back and 10mm higher, 2 holes 20mm back and 30mm higher (or some variant like that). You will need to make a new/longer gear shift linkage too.

[John_H]

Mine were ground to nearly halfway with stock setup. My ZXR footpegs have had to be raised 40 and back 20 and I still hit the ground with them, just not as much. It also depends on how you ride the bike. Some people use lean angle more than others (depending on how much you hang off, approach corners etc). My Dad hits the footpegs on my bike more than I do and I am lapping about 2 seconds quicker (until he comes out and decides to have another go). It's a comfort thing as much as it's a ground clearance thing. I quite liked Andrew Adlams set up which had the footpegs very far back and up a reasonable amount too.

Just make a steel plate with 6 holes in it. 2 for mounting to frame, 2 holes that are 20mm back and 10mm higher, 2 holes 20mm back and 30mm higher (or some variant like that). You will need to make a new/longer gear shift linkage too.

Can you buy a longer gear shift linkage?

[Henk]

Can you buy a longer gear shift linkage?

Yes, check his thread

http://www.fxr150.co.nz/discussion/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=710

[John_H]

Yes, check his thread

http://www.fxr150.co.nz/discussion/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=710

Thanks Henk. Could you Pm me his contact details please.

Cheers

[Henk]

I pmed him on the FXR site and took it from there.
Got one for the FXR100'project and a couple of spares for the toolbox.
Only thing missing was the nuts but I managed to get the LH thread jobs through a supplier at work so am all set.

[koba]

Another alternative axle protection is an tapping a M6 threaded hole down the centre of the axle at each end and adding a short crash-bung held in place with a capscrew.

I've crash tested this extensively too and It's very effective but short bungs are best to avoid excessive bending force.

I didn't mention it earlier because it needs a lathe but thought I better add it to the discussion in case someone with access to the right gear reads this in the future.

[John_H]

Another alternative axle protection is an tapping a M6 threaded hole down the centre of the axle at each end and adding a short crash-bung held in place with a capscrew.

I've crash tested this extensively too and It's very effective but short bungs are best to avoid excessive bending force.

I didn't mention it earlier because it needs a lathe but thought I better add it to the discussion in case someone with access to the right gear reads this in the future.

Yeah, I had thought about that, just as you say - no lathe.

[jasonu]

I've moved mine down as too far up is a pain in the ankles. Have to be comfortable to ride fast.

Old git...

[F5 Dave]

Sure am & with a weak ankle from an Ohakune crash 10 years back. Decided to go through toe sliders & stay fresh. But I have seen some piss prepared buckets where the owner has raised the pegs into a silly high 'racing' tuck that looked cool in the garage but can't have helped on the track.


Think Bayden's Kawi 90 was the worst I'd ever seen. You could have crashed the bike & still probably not scraped the pegs:blink:

[Gigglebutton]

Mine are 30mm up & 30mm back. Raised the seat about 40mm

[Henk]

On our FXRs we are either back ten and up twenty or back twenty and up ten. Can't remember but think back ten ...

[mossy1200]

I might try thick wall rachem on my fork legs maybe 2 layers with a section of choping board on the outer of the forks. Rachem glues and thickens as you heat it and has its own glue that activates with the heat.

[Henk]

I'd be leaning towards a solution that doesn't require a knife and a heat gun if you ever need to pull the front wheel at the track.
Have been known to change wheels five times in a day before getting pissed off with the changeable weather.

[mossy1200]

I'd be leaning towards a solution that doesn't require a knife and a heat gun if you ever need to pull the front wheel at the track.
Have been known to change wheels five times in a day before getting pissed off with the changeable weather.

I was planning on removing the wheel and doing it above the axel height but sticking out far enough to take the fall so it wont effect the wheel removal.

[Cloggy]

Yeah, I had thought about that, just as you say - no lathe.

I could maybe help you there John. I've got a real old dunger of a lathe sitting in the garage. It's no good for accurate work but perfect for whipping up a couple of crash bungs if you have the material.

[John_H]

I could maybe help you there John. I've got a real old dunger of a lathe sitting in the garage. It's no good for accurate work but perfect for whipping up a couple of crash bungs if you have the material.

Thanks Pierre but I have some cylindrical nylon already, it's drilling the hole in the end of the axle I would need it for.

[Cloggy]

Thanks Pierre but I have some cylindrical nylon already, it's drilling the hole in the end of the axle I would need it for.

That's a piece of cake. I might have to come and have a look.

[John_H]

That's a piece of cake. I might have to come and have a look.

Excellent Pierre, thanks. I also need a tap for an M6 screw. Let me know when you want to come round.