New guy to Buckets

[mossy1200]

Finally got one.
$410.00

Advertised as 200xr barrel and 125xl crank which calculates at 167cc so im going to need check the bore. The last owner may not have been the bike builder and im hoping its got a xl185 or 175 sleeve and piston. Gasket set is only $22 so ill get one.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=471109865

[tigertim20]

maybe the bourbin, or the pics, but that doesnt look quite chunky enough to be a 200 head on it.
either way, good onya for getting into it!

[Yow Ling]

That looks pretty cool ! looks like any engine could go in there, bet you itching to get it to yours. was a bit of a rough ride , still only took 2 weeks

[mossy1200]

That looks pretty cool ! looks like any engine could go in there, bet you itching to get it to yours. was a bit of a rough ride , still only took 2 weeks

Been looking on and of for 2years lol. Got uber keen again a month ago after watching more racing at Kaitoke.
I keep looking at the barrel and think it may be a pre 80 175 as its very round to be a xl185s or xr200.

[mossy1200]

Question.
If the tank is no good is 3 litre pit bike tank mounted under a fibre glass shell enough petrol for the average race excluding endurance rounds?

[koba]

This may be useful if you haven't already found it...

http://vincentcrabtree.web.officelive.com/XR200.aspx

Rules say 150 with overbores above that but not as far as 167 so you will need to have a closer look. If it isn't good to go I'm sure you could rectify it and build quite a good motor without it ripping heaps further into your wallet.

Well done for a good budget purchase.

To all readers: take note; you don't have to spend heaps to get involved!

EDIT: Just read the auction Q+A. Good call and fair enough.

[mossy1200]

This may be useful if you haven't already found it...

http://vincentcrabtree.web.officelive.com/XR200.aspx

Rules say 150 with overbores above that but not as far as 167 so you will need to have a closer look. If it isn't good to go I'm sure you could rectify it and build quite a good motor without it ripping heaps further into your wallet.

Well done for a good budget purchase.

To all readers: take note; you don't have to spend heaps to get involved!

Ok 65.5 bore and 49.5 stroke is 166cc. Are you saying I can run that combo?

[hmurphy]

Yeah 3 litres is normally enough to do a lot of racing. Also, if it's slow as shit who cares if it's slightly over the legal limit. Don't tell anyone and no one will notice. Just make it legal later if it bothers you. Some people might care at NI meetings or other points type stuff but clubs days should be sweet. Good job on getting a bike mate

[mossy1200]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=470981990

I also bought this today for $101 so I plan to make some bucket fund cash from it by getting it going or selling the parts from it.

[Kickaha]

Ok 65.5 bore and 49.5 stroke is 166cc. Are you saying I can run that combo?

Not legally you cant, normally on the Hondas they used a XR200 head but not the barrel

[koba]

Question.
If the tank is no good is 3 litre pit bike tank mounted under a fibre glass shell enough petrol for the average race excluding endurance rounds?

Yes, with plenty to spare.

[mossy1200]

Yeah 3 litres is normally enough to do a lot of racing. Also, if it's slow as shit who cares if it's slightly over the legal limit. Don't tell anyone and no one will notice. Just make it legal later if it bothers you. Some people might care at NI meetings or other points type stuff but clubs days should be sweet. Good job on getting a bike mate



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbsbMpV4wKk&feature=g-upl

Ill try go slow but its not in my nature. Can I wear a yellow rookie jacket for the first year please?

Its likely ill build a quicker motor as I get the cash flow for it. Im assuming a mc17 frame will be good for the track.

[Yow Ling]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=470981990

I also bought this today for $101 so I plan to make some bucket fund cash from it by getting it going or selling the parts from it.

A bucket and a Pre 89 for about $500 , move to Chch and you can run them on the same day for $50 entry.

[mossy1200]

Not legally you cant, normally on the Hondas they used a XR200 head but not the barrel

Yes thats why im thinking since it was raced 5years ago it may have a xl185 bore and piston at 63mm and be 154cc.
Once I get it going and bring it out it would be good if I could run it and look for any issues then pull the head and measure the bore and stroke even if its a few laps during the lunch brake or a non points race.

[mossy1200]

A bucket and a Pre 89 for about $500 , move to Chch and you can run them on the same day for $50 entry.

My last pre 89 was 155rear wheel hp. I think the gsx would frustrate me as it would have the worst of everything LOL.

[koba]

Ok 65.5 bore and 49.5 stroke is 166cc. Are you saying I can run that combo?

No. That is an amazing example of how miss-understandings can begin.

I didn't want to but the exact number on the overbore allowance because I couldn't be bothered looking it up.
I know it's around 156 or 158 but you should have a look on the MNZ website (Chapter 24 but also see chapter 10) and have a good look over them yourself rather than relying on others interpretation.

That looks a bit blunt as I re-read it for spelling, it's not meant to be rude but it is straight-up.

[mossy1200]

No. That is an amazing example of how miss-understandings can begin.

I didn't want to but the exact number on the overbore allowance because I couldn't be bothered looking it up.
I know it's around 156 or 158 but you should have a look on the MNZ website (Chapter 24 but also see chapter 10) and have a good look over them yourself rather than relying on others interpretation.

That looks a bit blunt as I re-read it for spelling, it's not meant to be rude but it is straight-up.

I did all the number crunching a week ago and I interpreted it as 156.8(memory only) so the xl125 crank and a xl185 barrel which is the same as a xr200 barrel just with smaller bore at 63mm is 154cc and below the rebore limit. Fish seems to think if i have 154cc ill be ok on the rebore rule.
if its 65.5bore ill get it pressed out and a 185bore pressed in and 185 piston rather than get a second hand 185 that may need rebored to use.

[koba]

I did all the number crunching a week ago and I interpreted it as 156.8(memory only) so the xl125 crank and a xl185 barrel which is the same as a xr200 barrel just with smaller bore at 63mm is 154cc and below the rebore limit. Fish seems to think if i have 154cc ill be ok on the rebore rule.
if its 65.5bore ill get it pressed out and a 185bore pressed in and 185 piston rather than get a second hand 185 that may need rebored to use.

154 sounds sweet on rebore to me. Fantastic.

[Ocean1]

Been looking on and of for 2years lol. Got uber keen again a month ago after watching more racing at Kaitoke.
I keep looking at the barrel and think it may be a pre 80 175 as its very round to be a xl185s or xr200.

Pre 80 is back to XL175 innit?

If so it'd be a 2 valve job.

[mossy1200]

Pre 80 is back to XL175 innit?

If so it'd be a 2 valve job.

I wont have the bike for a we while. Can I PM you once I know what I have motor wise. The seller was the father of the owner and his son is living overseas. I also think he wasnt the builder of the bike as they dont seem to have many details. Its possible since the bike was already being raced that its a 185 sleeve as the barrel for xr200 and xl185 is the same. I dont think it would be a 175 but the barrel doesnt look xr200 from the photo.

[Henk]

I'd say just turn up and race the thing, I doubt anyone will complain, if they do, offer to drop any points you manage to gather up. Start in B grade and even less chance of any drama

[mossy1200]

I'd say just turn up and race the thing, I doubt anyone will complain, if they do, offer to drop any points you manage to gather up. Start in B grade and even less chance of any drama

Yeah ill turn up for a ride but kick might have a xl185 one size overbore piston which would calculate at 155.35 cc and there is a full gasket set kit for $21.00 plus $5 freight so ill grab those and .25mm overbore it if its 185bore or press in a new bore and oversize .25mm on that.

PS sorted Kickaha is going to send a 63.25 piston so if its not legit it soon will be.

[mossy1200]

More questions sorry.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=472201988

This tank with a one way breather tube and make a false fibre shell from the original tank sound a good idea. The original tank looks like a leaker and even if it doesnt will be full of rust. The small tank I could move forward and higher for gravity drop into carb as the carb seems to sit high up and where the base of most tanks are.

[Ocean1]

I wont have the bike for a we while. Can I PM you once I know what I have motor wise.

Sure. My experience with both is over 30 years old but fire away.

[Moooools]

More questions sorry.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=472201988

This tank with a one way breather tube and make a false fibre shell from the original tank sound a good idea. The original tank looks like a leaker and even if it doesnt will be full of rust. The small tank I could move forward and higher for gravity drop into carb as the carb seems to sit high up and where the base of most tanks are.

That is exactly what I have done with my bike and my old man's bike. I just used the original tank as a male mold and covered it with a few coats of mold release wax and some PVA (releasing agent not the glue). Put 2 thin layers on cloth on so it was nice and flexible to get off the mold (tank) and reinforced it from the inside afterwards.

Try and get one of the plain black tanks rather than the ones with the silly carbon vinyl on it. It is not fuel resistant so the bits that are folded into the inside peel off and fall in your fuel.

[mossy1200]

That is exactly what I have done with my bike and my old man's bike. I just used the original tank as a male mold and covered it with a few coats of mold release wax and some PVA (releasing agent not the glue). Put 2 thin layers on cloth on so it was nice and flexible to get off the mold (tank) and reinforced it from the inside afterwards.

Try and get one of the plain black tanks rather than the ones with the silly carbon vinyl on it. It is not fuel resistant so the bits that are folded into the inside peel off and fall in your fuel.

Yeah good point same trader has the plain ones for $20 plus freight. There is a cbr600 full race fairing kit with tail on tard me for 150 which im tempted to get for the tank shell and tail then sell the balance.


http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=472680754

[F5 Dave]

too wide. you want to be able to move, no point having a small bike & restricting yourself, kart tracks are twisty. Even if you find a naff old tank to cut the bottom out of as a shell.

[F5 Dave]

too wide. you want to be able to move, no point having a small bike & restricting yourself, kart tracks are twisty. Even if you find a naff old tank to cut the bottom out of as a shell.

Oh hold on it has one. cut it down as small as & use it as a cover. Obviously be aware of the explosion danger, open it up in a tub of water or something.

[Drew]

Hmmm, I recall a SHIT laod of bucket racers whinging about the 155cc motard thing, as it "started at 155cc, and was not bored out to it after wear and tear".


Could some cunt enlighten me, as to how I know which side of the double fuckin standard is the right side?

[hmurphy]

Sure. If you're on a 200cc bucket and coming last then no one care. If you're on a 159cc bucket and you're beating people then fuck off. Nah I don't know the rules. I'm probably breaking most of them.

[Kickaha]

Hmmm, I recall a SHIT laod of bucket racers whinging about the 155cc motard thing, as it "started at 155cc, and was not bored out to it after wear and tear".
Could some cunt enlighten me, as to how I know which side of the double fuckin standard is the right side?

Read the rule book you cock

MINIATURE ROAD RACING
Championship Classes
Solo motorcycles shall have two engine capacity classes:
F4 2 stroke 55-100cc
2 stroke 55-125cc air cooled
4 stroke 55-150cc
Effective 1st January 2012
F5 2 stroke 0-50cc
4 stroke 0-100cc air cooled

The maximum capacity for rebored engines shall be:
F4 2 stroke 55-100cc - 104cc
2 stroke 55-125cc air cooled - 130.5cc
4 stroke 55-150cc – 158.09cc
F5 2 stroke 0-50cc - 53cc
4 stroke 0-100cc - 104cc

[richban]

Hmmm, I recall a SHIT laod of bucket racers whinging about the 155cc motard thing, as it "started at 155cc, and was not bored out to it after wear and tear".


Could some cunt enlighten me, as to how I know which side of the double fuckin standard is the right side?

Where does it say anything about wear and tear. Rebored mine to 156 as soon as I got it. It is a retarded bit of the rules in my opinion should just say max capacity is blah blah. I thought we hated the mini retards coz they had little silly wheels.:innocent:

[mossy1200]

Hmmm, I recall a SHIT laod of bucket racers whinging about the 155cc motard thing, as it "started at 155cc, and was not bored out to it after wear and tear".


Could some cunt enlighten me, as to how I know which side of the double fuckin standard is the right side?

You should be more worried if I state im going on a diet Drew. That extra 5cc of honda is only enough to haul my big ball sack.

[hmurphy]

I thought we hated the mini retards coz they had little silly wheels.:innocent:

Agreed. But dude have you ridden a decent one...? They KICK ASS - fun wise haha

[Drew]

Read the rule book you cock

MINIATURE ROAD RACING
Championship Classes
Solo motorcycles shall have two engine capacity classes:
F4 2 stroke 55-100cc
2 stroke 55-125cc air cooled
4 stroke 55-150cc
Effective 1st January 2012
F5 2 stroke 0-50cc
4 stroke 0-100cc air cooled

The maximum capacity for rebored engines shall be:
F4 2 stroke 55-100cc - 104cc
2 stroke 55-125cc air cooled - 130.5cc
4 stroke 55-150cc – 158.09cc
F5 2 stroke 0-50cc - 53cc
4 stroke 0-100cc - 104cc

Clear as fuckin day alright arsehole! You cannot start from more than 150cc, and must bore to it. So there is a huge number of fuckin hypocrites that are full of shit in buckets.

Not having a go at you Steve, I have no issue at all with you running a 159cc bike. Christ, with your dimensions you should be allowed a 200cc.

Same as any other type of racing, an old boys club full of two faced fuckin wankers.

[richban]

Clear as fuckin day alright arsehole! You cannot start from more than 150cc, and must bore to it. So there is a huge number of fuckin hypocrites that are full of shit in buckets.

Not having a go at you Steve, I have no issue at all with you running a 159cc bike. Christ, with your dimensions you should be allowed a 200cc.

Same as any other type of racing, an old boys club full of two faced fuckin wankers.


My vote for best post of the year. Love your work Dew.:niceone:

[F5 Dave]

yeah he's right Kick, you two faced wanker. How dare you point out that there are rules. and expecting everyone to follow them. You must be The Man that everyone talks about.

On the other hand, I'm the man, And if I'm the man, Then you're the man, and. He's the man as well.

[jasonu]

yeah he's right Kick, you two faced wanker. How dare you point out that there are rules. and expecting everyone to follow them. You must be The Man that everyone talks about.

On the other hand, I'm the man, And if I'm the man, Then you're the man, and. He's the man as well.

I thought Roger Decoster was 'The Man'.

[F5 Dave]

Probably was, but think he went into business after that & became another kind of The Man. As in 'Working for the Man'.

We should 'stick it to The Man'.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Man



And in between
sips of coke
he told me
that he thought we
were sellin' out,
layin' down,
suckin' up
to the man.

[jasonu]

Probably was, but think he went into business after that & became another kind of The Man. As in 'Working for the Man'.

We should 'stick it to The Man'.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Man



And in between
sips of coke
he told me
that he thought we
were sellin' out,
layin' down,
suckin' up
to the man.

From Wiki

Motorcycling career

De Coster's name is almost synonymous with the sport of motocross, winning five 500cc Motocross World Championships during the 1970s and tallying a record 36 500cc Grand Prix victories.[2] His stature is such in the world of motocross that he is often simply referred to as "The Man."[1]

He was The Man and still is The Man.
He currently runs the KTM AMA Supercross team with quite a bit of success.

[F5 Dave]

I thought he'd gone into the aftermarket trade in the 80s, vaguely remember DeCoster style Throttles or something, but didn't do a search to back that up & I'm too lazy to. Probably well gone now. But same as Preston Petty & another De-something who marketed oversize plastic tanks which were the bus for steel tanked XRs etc.

Either way whilst out for a walk I ruminated 'why is everyone getting in a pissy?'

Buckets has been around for 30 odd years. It isn't supposed to be a level playing ground production type class. It isn't supposed to mop up all comers who want to race a bike they find on TM & we're all wankers. Actually we're good cunts & no one will mind if (for example) this Mossy chap shows up & has a race on something as long as it is nyloned up & safe & he has the intention of sorting a legal engine if it isn't already in the near future. Which is pretty much what the dude said, so good on him.

What we don't want is people just deciding that they can just wholesale break the rules, as there is no end to that. Look at Rich. He came for a look & raced his oversize Vespa, & decided hey this is fun so he built a proper bucket. He's the Man.:apumpin:

[jasonu]

either way whilst out for a walk i ruminated 'why is everyone getting in a pissy?'

buckets has been around for 30 odd years. It isn't supposed to be a level playing ground production type class. It isn't supposed to mop up all comers who want to race a bike they find on tm & we're all wankers. Actually we're good cunts & no one will mind if (for example) this mossy chap shows up & has a race on something as long as it is nyloned up & safe & he has the intention of sorting a legal engine if it isn't already in the near future. Which is pretty much what the dude said, so good on him.

What we don't want is people just deciding that they can just wholesale break the rules, as there is no end to that. Look at rich. He came for a look & raced his oversize vespa, & decided hey this is fun so he built a proper bucket. He's the man.:apumpin:

well said that 'man'
(not 'The Man' of course)

[richban]

Look at Rich. He came for a look & raced his oversize Vespa, & decided hey this is fun so he built a proper bucket. He's the Man.:apumpin:

Yes the wellington crew were very patient with me. Now some people even look in my direction with a none hate, sort of face. Some people. One day I might get invited on a play date. One day. But hey I have learnt my lesson. Its the small wheels I am sure of it.<_<

[mossy1200]

Clear as fuckin day alright arsehole! You cannot start from more than 150cc, and must bore to it. So there is a huge number of fuckin hypocrites that are full of shit in buckets.

Not having a go at you Steve, I have no issue at all with you running a 159cc bike. Christ, with your dimensions you should be allowed a 200cc.

Same as any other type of racing, an old boys club full of two faced fuckin wankers.

I think that the difference is that its a 125 engine reworked in the spirit of bucket racing and not a importer trying to sell under the bucket racer ready to race. Im sure if he offered it with 150cc option that could be bored oversize everyone would say go for it.
Plus Drew the bike is unknown so far and the seller didnt have a good idea of work done. It may well be a 125 bored 2mm oversize with 200 head and be 140odd cc but im sure ill let everyone know as soon as I do. You know I have always operated within the rules and im very open about whats been done when racing in the posties. If something is outside the rules ill get it sorted.
Also bike motor was 125 and I intend rebore a 63mm sleave to 63.25 to use a piston(open) xl185 one size over giving me 63.25 bore and 49.5stroke = 155.35cc. If this isnt acceptable everyone let me know before I spend some money thanks.

[Kickaha]

Clear as fuckin day alright arsehole! You cannot start from more than 150cc, and must bore to it.
You must have got someone else to work that out for you because you'd be to thick to do it yourself

So there is a huge number of fuckin hypocrites that are full of shit in buckets..
Give us some examples so we can take the piss out of them to because everyone I know of down here builds to the rules

Same as any other type of racing, an old boys club full of two faced fuckin wankers.
Who are you calling old you spotty faced little oink :finger:

[richban]

Also bike motor was 125 and I intend rebore a 63mm sleave to 63.25 to use a piston(open) xl185 one size over giving me 63.25 bore and 49.5stroke = 155.35cc. If this isnt acceptable everyone let me know before I spend some money thanks.

Go for it. Can you get it closer to 158? With only 2 valves you will want all the cc's you can grab.

[mossy1200]

Go for it. Can you get it closer to 158? With only 2 valves you will want all the cc's you can grab.

Kickaha is sending me the 63.25 piston. Its been blessed by the Gods for good luck and made of space shuttle nose cone ceramic. Its been weighed in at 3 grammes and is so slippery it doesnt need rings. I hope its legal.

[speedpro]

Look at Rich. He came for a look & raced his "oversize" Vespa,

It's practically irresistable -

Nothing much has changed for Rich then?

[richban]

It's practically irresistable -

Nothing much has changed for Rich then?

Mike mike mike. Now stop this cheating insinuation business. If you say something a nuff times people might start to believe it. Especially with the debut of the next engine coming along. The only thing in my camp oversized is the rider. shhhhhhhoosh.

[richban]

Kickaha is sending me the 63.25 piston. Its been blessed by the Gods for good luck and made of space shuttle nose cone ceramic. Its been weighed in at 3 grammes and is so slippery it doesnt need rings. I hope its legal.

Shit that might put your crank balance out a little.

[mossy1200]

Shit that might put your crank balance out a little.

Nope. Im going to get breville to knife edge the crank. Ill use it to wizz when when im not racing.

[mossy1200]

New fuel tank ordered.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=474686069

New gasket set ordered and Kickaha has sent the Piston.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=474680861

Cant wait to get this project started. not sure yet when bike tranz will be doing their next Hawks Bay,Hastings Napier run yet.

The guy i bought the gsx550es from emailed me to say he would call but hasnt. was hoping to make some cash from it to fund the bucket mods.

Update he just called and rego is on hold also collect tomorrow.

[Drew]

I've got three of those tanks sitting in the garage, coulda had one for nada bro. Shoulda said when you first mentioned it earlier, my bad.

[mossy1200]

I've got three of those tanks sitting in the garage, coulda had one for nada bro. Shoulda said when you first mentioned it earlier, my bad.

mc17 Drew or the 3litre fuel cell?
I payed for the 3litre already on visa. I was thinking of getting a 1 or 2 litre also as a reserve tank and having a inline tap on it for endurance rounds going into a T junction before the carb.

[Drew]

mc17 Drew or the 3litre fuel cell?
I payed for the 3litre already on visa. I was thinking of getting a 1 or 2 litre also as a reserve tank and having a inline tap on it for endurance rounds going into a T junction before the carb.
3ltr Fuel cell. Got a few pit bikes and some spares for em. I'd get a fibre glass tank made from the original tank. Time consuming, but fairly simple to make.

[mossy1200]

3ltr Fuel cell. Got a few pit bikes and some spares for em. I'd get a fibre glass tank made from the original tank. Time consuming, but fairly simple to make.

Yeah that the plan on the tank cover. ill build the fuel cell up to match the original cap hole and make a rep tank for it. I might make a reserve tank also with a inline fuel tap that I reach while riding if there is room under the tank cover.

[husaberg]

Gee you guys were arguing without me

I read the rules as the max allowed capacity and i don't care how it gets there.
Sorry for crashing the thread late, but I don't think short stroke is the way to go for the 2v Honda.

The reason i say this is simple if you use the std XR200/XL125 head the short stroke won't do you any good as the valves are pretty much the max that can be squeezed in anyway. Also to get an acceptable compression ratio you will need a Huuuuge dome and effective squish and will require a huge it ignition lead to work.
These factors will kill power (The dome and the Advance). The Honda will not rev anywhere near high enough with its std valve area to take advantage of the short stoke.

But if you were to say use an oversize say 58.5mm piston 1mm os 125 (or thereabouts) with a STD xl185/xr200 57.8mm stroke you will have a clean combustion shape and a decent Compression ratio. The Honda 2v still wont rev high enough with its longer stroke to cause problems associated with an increase in mean piston speed, plus it will be cheaper.

If you don't believe me do your own maths on the comp ratio yourselves.

[mossy1200]

Gee you guys were arguing without me

I read the rules as the max allowed capacity and i don't care how it gets there.
Sorry for crashing the thread late, but I don't think short stroke is the way to go for the 2v Honda.

The reason i say this is simple if you use the std XR200/XL125 head the short stroke won't do you any good as the valves are pretty much the max that can be squeezed in anyway. Also to get an acceptable compression ratio you will need a Huuuuge dome and effective squish and will require a huge it ignition lead to work.
These factors will kill power (The dome and the Advance). The Honda will not rev anywhere near high enough with its std valve area to take advantage of the short stoke.

But if you were to say use an oversize say 58.5mm piston 1mm os 125 (or thereabouts) with a STD xl185/xr200 57.8mm stroke you will have a clean combustion shape and a decent Compression ratio. The Honda 2v still wont rev high enough with its longer stroke to cause problems associated with an increase in mean piston speed, plus it will be cheaper.

If you don't believe me do your own maths on the comp ratio yourselves.

Ill be happy if it goes ok and is under the 158cc for a while. Ill build a better engine if I plan to get good at racing it then transplant. It may make 10-12hp but thats ok untill a writen off fxr comes along. Idd like to think long term this engine will be replaced and while its already got a 125 crank inside(claimed) ill stick with bore and piston replacement only to keep this engine cheap. it seems someone has spent some money on the bike so maybe it will be better set up than was advertised. At some stage someone has done some good work with the exaust and wheel conversion. i dont know what the rear wheel with its drum brake would have come from. i just cant wait now to see the bike LOL.

[husaberg]

Ill be happy if it goes ok and is under the 158cc for a while. Ill build a better engine if I plan to get good at racing it then transplant. It may make 10-12hp but thats ok untill a writen off fxr comes along. Idd like to think long term this engine will be replaced and while its already got a 125 crank inside(claimed) ill stick with bore and piston replacement only to keep this engine cheap. it seems someone has spent some money on the bike so maybe it will be better set up than was advertised. At some stage someone has done some good work with the exaust and wheel conversion. i dont know what the rear wheel with its drum brake would have come from. i just cant wait now to see the bike LOL.


No i understand but won't it be a bore a piston and a sleeve. That's why i say it may be cheaper to do the stroke.
Oh the FXr150 why don't you aspire to a higher level. The FXR150 is like the Arsehole of Buckets. (sure everyone's got one but i don't think we need to see them):chase:

[gav]

Kickaha is sending me the 63.25 piston. Its been blessed by the Gods for good luck and made of space shuttle nose cone ceramic. Its been weighed in at 3 grammes and is so slippery it doesnt need rings. I hope its legal.
Just check the valves arent still embedded in the top of the piston, as most second hand Kickaha pistons end up this way ... :laugh:

[mossy1200]

No i understand but won't it be a bore a piston and a sleeve. That's why i say it may be cheaper to do the stroke.
Oh the FXr150 why don't you aspire to a higher level. The FXR150 is like the Arsehole of Buckets. (sure everyone's got one but i don't think we need to see them):chase:

Im not following. The information I have is that its already stroked to 125 crank and has xr 200 barrel 65.5 so I was planning to press xl185s sleeve whick is the same as xr200 but smaller internal 63mm then going 1 oversize to 63.25 for Kickahas piston. Quick fix for a starter motor.

[Kickaha]

Just check the valves arent still embedded in the top of the piston, as most second hand Kickaha pistons end up this way ... :laugh:
2 pistons in about 10 years, but don't let the truth get in the way of a good story, I've actually blown more cranks than pistons although the three of those were other peoples bikes so they don't really count

Im not following. The information I have is that its already stroked to 125 crank and has xr 200 barrel 65.5 so I was planning to press xl185s sleeve whick is the same as xr200 but smaller internal 63mm then going 1 oversize to 63.25 for Kickahas piston. Quick fix for a starter motor.
Are you sure they didn't make the stroke shorter to keep it legal? measure both before you start building anything

[mossy1200]

Just check the valves arent still embedded in the top of the piston, as most second hand Kickaha pistons end up this way ... :laugh:

Its a new piston.


I have a new TKRJ XL185 piston .25 over that you can have if it is any use to you

cheers
Warwick

[husaberg]

Im not following. The information I have is that its already stroked to 125 crank and has xr 200 barrel 65.5 so I was planning to press xl185s sleeve whick is the same as xr200 but smaller internal 63mm then going 1 oversize to 63.25 for Kickahas piston. Quick fix for a starter motor.

Well you will have to get a 185 sleeve (That is on Std bore assuming you don't have one already, but its a 20 year old motor) then the sleeve will have to be shortened or a spacer plate will have to be used,(otherwise it will hit the flywheels and will not bolt down) then you will have to bore the cylinder. So Iike i said a stroker with a xr200 or a XL185 crank may well work out cheaper?

Oh before i forget the XL185 piston is a low comp piston as well most i think from memory were dished. if it was 9.2 :1 on a on a 185 it will be a lot lower comp on a 15*cc motor.

Warwick (Kickaha) is a top bloke, just don't let him give you any styling tips for the bike.
He will have it all decked out with a airbrushed tank mural and highway pegs and a sissybar.

[mossy1200]

2 pistons in about 10 years, but don't let the truth get in the way of a good story, I've actually blown more cranks than pistons although the three of those were other peoples bikes so they don't really count

Are you sure they didn't make the stroke shorter to keep it legal? measure both before you start building anything

Im of the impression the stroke is shortened to 49.5mm( xl125 ) but the barrel is xr200(65.5mm) =167cc but what i dont know is if the barrel contains a xl185 bore 63mm then the bike is 154cc already. I think its a xr200 engine with xl125 crank.

Step one is to pull the head and measure the bore and stroke
Step two is if the stroke is correct but the bore is to big fit 185bore and oversize it .25mm and install your piston.If its already 63 ill still do the oversize and new piston = 155.35cc

[mossy1200]

Still waiting snore. Should arrive next week. I think it went to Auckland is will be on next truck to Welly.

[mossy1200]

Its bucket day tomorrow at last so I can have a look at what needs done.
Anyone running the flatslides on tard me
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-479081023.htm

they come in 28/30/32mm

[crazy man]

Its bucket day tomorrow at last so I can have a look at what needs done.
Anyone running the flatslides on tard me
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-479081023.htm

they come in 28/30/32mmyou can't help your self can you

:lol:

[mossy1200]

you can't help your self can you

:lol:


Hasnt been running for a while and im not learned in the way of cleaning carby.

[crazy man]

Hasnt been running for a while and im not learned in the way of cleaning carby.l thought you did not want to spend any more than 300hundy on a bucket or was that per day? lmao:killingme

[mossy1200]

l thought you did not want to spend any more than 300hundy on a bucket or was that per day? lmao:killingme

Well I got a scooter for 150 and spent 8 on it and sold for 760 today. I have 2 options.

1= tell wife and lose 760
2= invest quick and take a spank if im caught out.

[crazy man]

Well I got a scooter for 150 and spent 8 on it and sold for 760 today. I have 2 options.

1= tell wife and lose 760
2= invest quick and take a spank if im caught out.look out sue is coming

:killingme

[mossy1200]

look out sue is coming

:killingme

ouch ouch me 2

[Pumba]

Its bucket day tomorrow at last so I can have a look at what needs done.
Anyone running the flatslides on tard me
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-479081023.htm

they come in 28/30/32mm

A number of FXR's are running them (including mine). Bloody good carbs that seem to do the business. All the ones I know of are generally 28mm.

[Henk]

Its bucket day tomorrow at last so I can have a look at what needs done.
Anyone running the flatslides on tard me
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/performance/auction-479081023.htm

they come in 28/30/32mm

I've got a 28 on mine. 115 main I think and works pretty well on a pretty stock engine (that carb and a butcherd pipe with stock header) not huge amounts of extra horsepower but much more punch out of corners.

[mossy1200]

A number of FXR's are running them (including mine). Bloody good carbs that seem to do the business. All the ones I know of are generally 28mm.

Maybe ill check whats on it and if it not good ill match the carb intake rubber size. It a xr200 head.

[Henk]

Oh yeah mines on an FXR, needed to use a chunk of radiator hose for the inlet manifold.

[mossy1200]

wifey said if you want it just get it so ill wait and see whats on it and if its not got a good carb ill grab one. Idd say the tires are going to be old also. this is going to get expensive fast but dont tell Sue ok. everyone seems to be going slicks but would road race tires be just as good and better in the wet than slicks.

[mossy1200]

Its here
Tank is total loss so temp fit 3litre fuel cell.
Lots of compression.
xl125se bottom end
428 chain sprockets in very good condition but chain isnt so will replace. I assume 428 is a good size for a bucket. its very light.
Brakes are good front and rear.
It has some sort of fork mod with a external link from one side to the other. Ill add a photo of this soon.
the top end looks to be xl185s but it has no markings. the jug has been shortened to match the stroke and retain high compression.
Seems to be 4 speed only.

Wiring could be wrong I have opened a thread on that.

[husaberg]

Its here
Tank is total loss so temp fit 3litre fuel cell.
Lots of compression.
xl125se bottom end
428 chain sprockets in very good condition but chain isnt so will replace. I assume 428 is a good size for a bucket. its very light.
Brakes are good front and rear.
It has some sort of fork mod with a external link from one side to the other. Ill add a photo of this soon.
the top end looks to be xl185s but it has no markings. the jug has been shortened to match the stroke and retain high compression.
Seems to be 4 speed only.

Wiring could be wrong I have opened a thread on that.

Oh 4 speed that could be a problem the XL125s were 6 most of the other other than the XR200 were 5.
The 428 is ok 420 or 415 is preferred.
Does it have a decomp on the head if so it is likely 185 or 200 it 125s which had the same valves were non decomp.

[Kickaha]

Oh 4 speed that could be a problem the XL125s were 6 most of the other other than the XR200 were 5.

What Honda ever had a four speed though?, it should be either 5 or 6speed

[mossy1200]

I may need get it going to see. I wasnt paying attention but seemed to be 4 but ill check tomorrow. fingers crossed.

[husaberg]

What Honda ever had a four speed though?, it should be either 5 or 6speed

Oh 4 speed that could be a problem the XL125s were 6 most of the other other than the XR200 were 5.
Er that 's my point hence why it is a problem.If it has four one there is a problem (with the gearbox) but as you ask the H100S have a 4 speed so did the cg110 and a couple of others like some of the horizontal singles.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264379&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1338625722
Gee that's an oddball looking carb?

If you get an alloy or just use a plastic spacer from one of the old bikes to suit or you the old inlet from a cb100 or similar bore it out it will shorten the inlet nicely failing that if you are keen to go to a OKO or similar i have modded a Suzuki to suit easily.
i guess it was from a ts250 or similar just slotted the holes and it lined up perfect.

[Drew]

The link hose on the forks looks like it's just there to keep the air preload even Steve.

[Ocean1]

What Honda ever had a four speed though?, it should be either 5 or 6speed

Both my xl350s had just 4 on several occasions.

[mossy1200]

Can confirm 5 speed but because the chain is off had to jiggle sprocket for dog to mesh.

Did some work today. Crash skids on front done and wired up the stop switch. Ill do more tomorrow or tonight but i keep getting called into work today. Started the frame polish also.

Im looking at a buel tank cover maybe or and rs aprilia tank(plastic) which ill remove the bottom. Thoughts

[jasonu]

I may need get it going to see. I wasnt paying attention but seemed to be 4 but ill check tomorrow. fingers crossed.

Cool top tripple clamp. Definitely 'Bucket' material.

[mossy1200]

Cool top tripple clamp. Definitely 'Bucket' material.


Extra weight in those to keep the front wheel down.

Polished one side down to 400 grit.
Repainted the tail fairing black and added a sticker to cover the mark in front mudgard. Says I have YSS suspension so should handle above average to almost great.

[mossy1200]

More questions. the rear rim is 4inch but has a 120 old slick on it. 4inch should be 140 or 150mm?
front is 3.5 inch but im thinking a 110 on it would be ok or should I be putting a 120 on?

[husaberg]

More questions. the rear rim is 4inch but has a 120 old slick on it. 4inch should be 140 or 150mm?
front is 3.5 inch but im thinking a 110 on it would be ok or should I be putting a 120 on?

Are your sure those are the sizes of the wheels because the front looks like a MC19 which would make it 2.5x17?

[mossy1200]

Are your sure those are the sizes of the wheels because the front looks like a MC19 which would make it 2.5x17?

I think everything is mc14 but maybe the front isnt.
Its got a 120 on the front now which looks ok but could be smaller and a 120 slick on the rear which looks a bit small. I only measured the rear properly as the front half of my garage is a bit dark. I should install more lights seeing as im a sparky and have been in the place 6 years.

[husaberg]

I think everything is mc14
Its got a 120 on the front now which looks ok but could be smaller and a 120 slick on the rear which looks a bit small. I only measured the rear properly as the front half of my garage is a bit dark. I should install more lights seeing as im a sparky and have been in the place 6 years.

The sizes should be cast in the wheels?

ps just bring it into the lounge.

[mossy1200]

The sizes should be cast in the wheels?

ps just bring it into the lounge.

I would if it was running but pushing it back up 45 stairs isnt a good idea.

Im thinking mc17 front wheel 2.5 inch and thats why the 120 tire looks to big and its 4inch mc14 rear so thats why the 120 looks to small.

Im almost thinking I should shell out on new 110/70/17 and 140/70/17 conti race attacks instead of slicks.

new tanks cover

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479592357

maybe new seat

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479644484

And a divorce when wife spots the money spent.

[mossy1200]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479644484

Couldnt resist. Dam alcohol
264456

[mossy1200]

Got the buel tank cover. Im hoping the seat and cover will come together ok. i may need to make a new rear subframe if they dont.

Also blue header wrap.

[mossy1200]

More progress. Its like a drug and the budget is blowing out.

Whats the best stuff for stripping wheel paint?

[koba]

Im thinking mc17 front wheel 2.5 inch and thats why the 120 tire looks to big and its 4inch mc14 rear so thats why the 120 looks to small.

Im almost thinking I should shell out on new 110/70/17 and 140/70/17 conti race attacks instead of slicks.


I'd try a 125 slick (90 or 95) on the front and probably a front race-attack (120, made for a 3.5" rim) or similar (Backwards) on the back.

The Race attack profile will probably be more suitable for a rear tyre when it's on a 4" rim and the 125 lick is made for a 2.5" rim.

Trial and error plays a part because the application is so far from the designed function of the tyres.
What works can be quite weird, trying all sorts of different shit helps heaps.

The idea in flipping the front tyre if you run it on the rear is because it's designed to load one way, power is opposite to brakes.

[koba]

More progress. Its like a drug and the budget is blowing out.

Whats the best stuff for stripping wheel paint?

I've got some to do if you are real keen... :whistle:

Is it just me of is that rear wheel on the piss a bit? :drinkup:

[Kickaha]

Whats the best stuff for stripping wheel paint?

Somebody else sand blasting it

[mossy1200]

I've got some to do if you are real keen... :whistle:

Is it just me of is that rear wheel on the piss a bit? :drinkup:

Its just you. I was on the piss a bit and the wheel is on a huge angle. Previous owner tried tighten the chain on one side only on the adjusters. It was tight and well stretched so I think the guys father made it tight before transporters collected it so it wouldnt fall off.
I have a 428 mx chain coming for it. the sprockets are very new looking so I think maybe the old chain was a crappy stretcher type.

[mossy1200]

Somebody else sand blasting it

I was wanting to stip the rim edge only and I think there is a paint on gel that can be used after you mask off the bits you dont want removed.

[husaberg]

I was wanting to stip the rim edge only and I think there is a paint on gel that can be used after you mask off the bits you dont want removed.


Brake fluid?

Nah geeze are you sure its a bucket build :lol:
Could you just use rim tape the stuff fills up my Ebay searches.

[koba]

Its just you. I was on the piss a bit and the wheel is on a huge angle. Previous owner tried tighten the chain on one side only on the adjusters. It was tight and well stretched so I think the guys father made it tight before transporters collected it so it wouldnt fall off.
I have a 428 mx chain coming for it. the sprockets are very new looking so I think maybe the old chain was a crappy stretcher type.

I'd run some string around it just to check. It's really common to see engines mounted where they fit and then a rear wheel added to make the chain run straight with no consideration for wheel alignment.

[mossy1200]

I'd try a 125 slick (90 or 95) on the front and probably a front race-attack (120, made for a 3.5" rim) or similar (Backwards) on the back.

The Race attack profile will probably be more suitable for a rear tyre when it's on a 4" rim and the 125 lick is made for a 2.5" rim.

Trial and error plays a part because the application is so far from the designed function of the tyres.
What works can be quite weird, trying all sorts of different shit helps heaps.

The idea in flipping the front tyre if you run it on the rear is because it's designed to load one way, power is opposite to brakes.

If I cant score on tard me ill do 110/70/17 front anbd 140/70/17 conti race attacks on it. The front rim isnt mc14 or mc17 and I measured it at 3.5inch and has 88 on the rim. Its a perfect match for the rear in looks but not sized as 2.5inch stock. Maybe a nsr rim?

[mossy1200]

Brake fluid?

Nah geeze are you sure its a bucket build :lol:
Could you just use rim tape the stuff fills up my Ebay searches.

i could use the old brake fluid when the braided line arrives and see if it works.

[mossy1200]

I'd run some string around it just to check. It's really common to see engines mounted where they fit and then a rear wheel added to make the chain run straight with no consideration for wheel alignment.

Will do it looks like it is straight as the chain guide leads to the sprocket but will need the new chain to check. The front engine support is angled and a section removed to avoid the exaust and then the bottom section is offset to move the motor left so looks like effort has been made to line up sprockets by someone. I have just reinstalled that now and its black instead of ally in a can colour.

[husaberg]

i could use the old brake fluid when the braided line arrives and see if it works.

Don't it gets in the alloy and the paint won't stick but why do you want to strip the edge of the wheel.
did you see what size the front wheel was i certainly doesn't look like MC14 as it doesn't have the cast in disk carrier
http://www.remus.dti.ne.jp/~ba20519/cbr250f01.jpg

[mossy1200]

Don't it gets in the alloy and the paint won't stick but why do you want to strip the edge of the wheel.

The edges are all chiped. There is a product that Darren Calder used on his race bike that paints on with a brush. ill call him and see what it is called. Its a runny clear jelly that foams up a bits as the paint melts away. Its was made for removing paint on aircraft originally I think.

http://www.finishing.com/0800-0999/800.shtml
Found some info but ill ask darren what he used.

[mossy1200]

Don't it gets in the alloy and the paint won't stick but why do you want to strip the edge of the wheel.
did you see what size the front wheel was i certainly doesn't look like MC14 as it doesn't have the cast in disk carrier
http://www.remus.dti.ne.jp/~ba20519/cbr250f01.jpg


front wheel is 3.5inch. its the same design as the rear but doesnt seem to spec on any cbr250 so maybe its a nsr or cbr400 wheel. Its got date 88 on it. I keep thinking it may be cbr400 aero. I think they had a single disk.

[mossy1200]

Questions

Is there power at Kaitoke? im thinking of making a roller starter.

Does anyone have wringer washing machine rollers at home or a complete wringer head.
Im lazy and cant run very fast.

[husaberg]

It was once very common for calf rearers to buy up all the old agitator washing machines as they were excellent for mixing powder maybe try some cockies as they were also used to clean the overalls at sheds

They were also excellent for cocktail parties.

Failing that the rollers from a old conveyor would seem almost tailor made.

The front wheel has me f-ed as the Aero's i remember were 2x disk with a funny carrier like in the picture of the (MC14)the later ones were 3.5x17 but twin disks also.

I have a MC19 front wheel here i will have a look what the casting say. edit (Mine say 2.5x17 dot on the inner spoke on the disk side outside just before the rim.)
I have a NC23 3.5x17 but that is twin disk off a triarm and that does have a funny 88/8 marking, but it is also hollow spoke maybe yours is off a cooking model 400?

Out of interest my 2.5 rim measures 3.25 inches across the outside and my 3.5 rim measures 4.25 inches across the outside if that helps

[Drew]

Boat shop. Boat trailer rollers. They'll have them in stock.

[mossy1200]

It was once very common for calf rearers to buy up all the old agitator washing machines as they were excellent for mixing powder maybe try some cockies as they were also used to clean the overalls at sheds

They were also excellent for cocktail parties.

Failing that the rollers from a old conveyor would seem almost tailor made.

The front wheel has me f-ed as the Aero's i remember were 2x disk with a funny carrier like in the picture of the (MC14)the later ones were 3.5x17 but twin disks also.

I have a MC17 front wheel here i will have a look what the casting say. edit (Mine say 2.5x17 dot on the inner spoke on the disk side outside just before the rim.)
I have a NC23 3.5x17 but that is twin disk off a triarm and that does have a funny 88/8 marking, but it is also hollow spoke maybe yours is off a cooking model 400?

Out of interest my 2.5 rim measures 3.25 inches across the outside and my 3.5 rim measures 4.25 inches across the outside if that helps

Ohh the rear measures 4inch and specs say its 4 inch. The front measures 3.5 inch and specs say 2.5inch but the disk mount isnt mc14 or mc17.

The fronts got a 120/70/17 tire on it which looks ok but 110 might be safer to replace as the tire isnt a race tire.
The rear 120 slick looks a fraction small so maybe a 130 or 140.
110 and a 130 would be a good mix on a bucket?

Im ready to take a torch to the garage and look closer now.

EDIT
found it behind the large disc on the spoke -front is 2.5 and the funny thing rear is 3inch not 4 like specs say so maybe 100 and 120 or 110 and 120

[husaberg]

Ohh the rear measures 4inch and specs say its 4 inch. The front measures 3.5 inch and specs say 2.5inch but the disk mount isnt mc14 or mc17.

The fronts got a 120/70/17 tire on it which looks ok but 110 might be safer to replace as the tire isnt a race tire.
The rear 120 slick looks a fraction small so maybe a 130 or 140.
110 and a 130 would be a good mix on a bucket?

Im ready to take a torch to the garage and look closer now.

What ever works is a good mix for buckets.
The idea of the 2.5 and 3.5 combo is related around being the std size 125 GP bike tyres.
But they could be considered overtired for there HP:msn-wink:

[mossy1200]

What ever works is a good mix for buckets.
The idea of the 2.5 and 3.5 combo is related around being the std size 125 GP bike tyres.
But they could be considered overtired for there HP:msn-wink:

So your saying leave the 120 on the rear and see if its not to old to be sticky.

[husaberg]

So your saying leave the 120 on the rear and see if its not to old to be sticky.

The kart boys have goop they used to use to make tyres sticky smelled like liniment (Wintergreen)
but those sizes will take gp tyres anyway when you're a feeling flush.

I would leave it one as i can be used as an excuse if you don't win your first race :rolleyes:

So you have a MC19 front wheel I guess.

[mossy1200]

The kart boys have goop they used to use to make tyres sticky smelled like liniment (Wintergreen)
but those sizes will take gp tyres anyway when you're a feeling flush.


By flush you mean BRAVE. Dont forget im on a $300 budget all up ;) :devil2: and I still need one of those flat slide carbs also.

[mossy1200]

Boat shop. Boat trailer rollers. They'll have them in stock.

Yeah. Good thinking.

I think I know where there is a luggage roller unit thats had damage to 4 roller but the other dozen or so are ok. I might need go visit late at night or with a bottle of rum during the day. Maybe I could make a few. They are stainless steel but I could rachem them for grip.

[Drew]

Yeah. Good thinking.

I think I know where there is a luggage roller unit thats had damage to 4 roller but the other dozen or so are ok. I might need go visit late at night or with a bottle of rum during the day. Maybe I could make a few. They are stainless steel but I could rachem them for grip.

Bonus of running a two stroke, I can startt my bike by spinning the back wheel, with the bike on the stand and in second gear. But a starter would look so much more pro!

Just use a car starter motor to spin it, that way ya only need jumper leads to fire it up.

[crazy man]

l might bring a dyno to the track to start my bike so l can be super pro

[F5 Dave]

c'mon its a 150, just paddle forward & drop the clutch.

[mossy1200]

c'mon its a 150, just paddle forward & drop the clutch.

LOL im old and slow and its easier to make a starter.

I have even already started. Cost so far is zero dollars down but ill need a 1/4hp motor and pulley also a centre boat roller assy.

Ill prob leave at the club for everyone to use. I might need a welder to weld the multi strut. ill bolt it and prep it ready for welding.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479935709

Got a front slick today. Its new but older stock. Should be ok though.

[koba]

LOL im old and slow and its easier to make a starter.

I have even already started. Cost so far is zero dollars down but ill need a 1/4hp motor and pulley also a centre boat roller assy.

Ill prob leave at the club for everyone to use. I might need a welder to weld the multi strut. ill bolt it and prep it ready for welding.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479935709

Got a front slick today. Its new but older stock. Should be ok though.

Jeebus, you talk of a budget build but then pay $90 for a slick that from a factory that, rumour has it, stopped making tyres after the 1995 kobe earthquake?
Ask around the pits and you are likely to find some 3rd or 4th hand 125 slicks (good sizing and grip for your rims) for a fraction of that. They won't be perfect but are likely to be on par with that YOKO.
Try the YOKO on the back, seriously.
Hell, even try the tyres on the bike before writing them off perhaps? It's a funny game tyre wise; it's hard to predict what will work.

While a commendable effort, the starter is just a distraction; learn to bump it right and spend the build effort on more productive areas.

I'm aware I sound like a cynical prick but I'm just calling it as I see it.

[Henk]

I'm aware I sound like a cynical prick but I'm just calling it as I see it.

Cynical prick.

There seem to be a few people thinking about start rollers at the moment, I'm one of them, in my case so that Michelle can start her 100 without help and so that I can stop pushing the tricycle.

[koba]

Cynical prick.


Soft Poof.

[Henk]

Soft Poof.

Stopped denying that years ago.

[mossy1200]

Jeebus, you talk of a budget build but then pay $90 for a slick that from a factory that, rumour has it, stopped making tyres after the 1995 kobe earthquake?
Ask around the pits and you are likely to find some 3rd or 4th hand 125 slicks (good sizing and grip for your rims) for a fraction of that. They won't be perfect but are likely to be on par with that YOKO.
Try the YOKO on the back, seriously.
Hell, even try the tyres on the bike before writing them off perhaps? It's a funny game tyre wise it's hard to predict what will work.

While a commendable effort, the starter is just a distraction; learn to bump it right and spend the build effort on more productive areas.

I'm aware I sound like a cynical prick but I'm just calling it as I see it.

For you Koba im only going to charge a dollar a go to use the mossy roller effortless start system untill your to old to push start your bike then ill charge you a fiver.

Im waiting on bits for the bike so im amusing myself with the starter. I can even get the bucket to do more than one rev by myself pushing it even in forth. I can get it turning over by hand in forth on the stand but its a effort.

ill run the 120 slick thats on the rear with the 110 on the front till later then get better tyres.

[husaberg]

Im waiting on bits for the bike so im amusing myself with the starter. I can even get the bucket to do more than one rev by myself pushing it even in forth. I can get it turning over by hand in forth on the stand but its a effort.


You could always re-fit the decomp i see it looks as if it has been blanked off?:whistle:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264386&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1338626074http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL483/1156929/2185589/47929317.jpg

[mossy1200]

You could always re-fit the decomp i see it looks as if it has been blanked off?:whistle:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=264386&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1338626074http://pic13.picturetrail.com/VOL483/1156929/2185589/47929317.jpg


Shaft is cut and still in with the oil seal also.

[mossy1200]

Soft Poof.

Look Koba from the guy that killed a bucket chasis to make a fat arse comes the same guy thats killing a Maytag to make a roller starter.

[Yow Ling]

Look Koba from the guy that killed a bucket chasis to make a fat arse comes the same guy thats killing a Maytag to make a roller starter.

What is the trailer rim off, looks flash

[mossy1200]

What is the trailer rim off, looks flash

Is cbr 900 front. Very cheap because its only 16inch

[koba]

Look Koba from the guy that killed a bucket chasis to make a fat arse comes the same guy thats killing a Maytag to make a roller starter.

Maybe you could make a front wheel clamp on the trailer to hold the bucket then tow the whole train to events?!

[kel]

Got a front slick today. Its new but older stock. Should be ok though.
I see its a hard compound, wonder if it started life that way or if thats how it ended up twenty years on. You really want softs or super soft slicks (nothing beats slicks, new ones that is), the medium compounds don't get up to temp around kart tracks so I dont think your hard will be much good.
There you go some free advice from a guy that just bought a set of sprockets without bothering to calculate gear ratios, anyone want a cheap set of alloy sprockets good for 100mph :lol:

[F5 Dave]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to koba again.

Bwahahaha.

[mossy1200]

Maybe ill cut tread in it and use it in the wet???LOL
Buel tank arrived

Have cut and slash to fit it. Still work in progress and have the 3 litre tank mounted.
Also got some more roller parts today and I think theres a motor at work somewhere that might work.

Im not sure if I should strip the colour from the tank. Its abs plastic underneath. I took some off a offcut and it looks the same as the 3 litre tank plastic so maybe black. What do you think???????? Tail will be black gelcoat.

[mossy1200]

Have ordered new set of bt39s

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/tyres/auction-482049927.htm

[mossy1200]

Completed tank and done the rear wheel so far. Im not sure if I should do more ally on wheel or if what I have done is enough.

[F5 Dave]

spend your time on getting nylon'd up & running well. A week away from next race.

[mossy1200]

spend your time on getting nylon'd up & running well. A week away from next race.

Just finished 2nd last nylon. Ill try get it going asap but im not sure if tyres and tail will be ready for the next meeting. Think the bt39s might arrive early next week. not sure about the tail. Chain should arrive tomorrow and the header wrap turned up today. I'll most likely work on it all weekend and maybe have it going.

[husaberg]

Completed tank and done the rear wheel so far. Im not sure if I should do more ally on wheel or if what I have done is enough.

What product did you end up using on the wheels (other than elbow grease)

You also mentioned Mothers for the alloy frame. Is that an autosol like polishing paste?

[mossy1200]

What product did you end up using on the wheels (other than elbow grease)

You also mentioned Mothers for the alloy frame. Is that an autosol like polishing paste?

I drilled a slot in a piece of timber and spun the wheel by hand with a file runing away the paint then held 80 grit then 400grit. I still need some 1000or 1200 then mothers ally polish on them.
Yep mothers is like autosol but a large tub is cheaper and works as well if not better.

[mossy1200]

Chain arrived today so Ill try getting it going this weekend.'
Wrapped the muffler. If any one needs some wrap I have alot left.
Did one side of front wheel. Still needs more work.
Started building up tire roller but im thinking I might need a boat roller to align wheel.
Got offered a weed eater motor today. Wondering if that could be a good drive option.

[F5 Dave]

um, that looks more like the header than the muffler.

btw that will help condensation rust the header unless you have a particularly good grade stainles system.

[mossy1200]

um, that looks more like the header than the muffler.

btw that will help condensation rust the header unless you have a particularly good grade stainles system.

You are correct sir.
Im not taking it out from the van if its wet.

[koba]

You are correct sir.
Im not taking it out from the van if its wet.

Don't expect much racing at Kaitoke then :killingme

[mossy1200]

Ok got the chain on and got it going. Seems now thats I rewired it it fires up good. The neighbours love it they all came out to wave at me like I was Rossi. Go something they all shouted.

[mossy1200]

Whens the next race guys and if its next weekend whens the following one. My front brakes arnt the best so I ordered new braided line but not sure if it will arrive before next weekend.

[F5 Dave]

I think its next weekend, but surely we can find some brake line for you to get things going.

[mossy1200]

I think its next weekend, but surely we can find some brake line for you to get things going.

They work but they are long and squisy fat rubber ones. the brakes are only 2 pot on the same side but ill pull them apart tomorrow and see if they just need a good clean etc. The tail still hasnt shown and the guy hasnt responded to any message on tard or email but maybe hes just the no talk alot kind and it will just show up. I can fit the original seat unit if required to run it.

[F5 Dave]

Back to page. . .7, for a look. Oh hey they are the old CBR style caliper & enormous disc. Same set up as a RS125 & as awesome as you need. I am running EBC organic pads (not the HH) & they seem great. Strip & clean, if there is an issue with the caliper I have a spare, can't remember what I have in the way of lines. I like to run an 11mm mc but that is extreme & requires braided lines & some mods. a 1/2" should be ok but no bigger, certainly not a 7/8 from a twin setup.

[husaberg]

Back to page. . .7, for a look. Oh hey they are the old CBR style caliper & enormous disc. Same set up as a RS125 & as awesome as you need. I am running EBC organic pads (not the HH) & they seem great. Strip & clean, if there is an issue with the caliper I have a spare, can't remember what I have in the way of lines. I like to run an 11mm mc but that is extreme & requires braided lines & some mods. a 1/2" should be ok but no bigger, certainly not a 7/8 from a twin setup.

Ive got one i wont need as well.

Be should be sweet with the MC as it looks to be the STD MC19 set up (Single 298mm disk and 2 pot plus single disk MC)

I am beginning to think my 4 pot brembo remote reservoir and cast iron disk braided line RS pads may be a little OTT. (OH well)

[mossy1200]

Back to page. . .7, for a look. Oh hey they are the old CBR style caliper & enormous disc. Same set up as a RS125 & as awesome as you need. I am running EBC organic pads (not the HH) & they seem great. Strip & clean, if there is an issue with the caliper I have a spare, can't remember what I have in the way of lines. I like to run an 11mm mc but that is extreme & requires braided lines & some mods. a 1/2" should be ok but no bigger, certainly not a 7/8 from a twin setup.

Ok ta ill pull it down and check. There is some drag on the disc (more than you would expect) so maybe a block in the return jet hole could be it. Might be old jelly brake fluid issue as it hasnt been raced for a while.I ordered a 700mm braided line fron ebay today but idd say its 10 days away approx. the original line will be ok if I sort out the fluids perhaps until the braided line arrives.
My wife came home with a new choping board and its granit black. she bought it to replace her one I chopped up but I do like the black granit looking one so ill chop up her new one when shes not looking perhaps also tomorrow.

[F5 Dave]

yeah pump those pistons out as could be shit jelly as you say behind them stopping them return

[Yow Ling]

yeah pump those pistons out as could be shit jelly as you say behind them stopping them return

I find the worst problem with old calipers is the shit that grows behind the square section O rings, remove the seals and get some sort of scraper into the bottom of the o ring groove. take care not to bugger the seals when removing them

[mossy1200]

All good strip clean and reasemble with new fluid. One piston was stuck. Does little stopies now. Should be good to run next weekend maybe on the old tires just to see how it goes. Can someone PM me the day and time at Kaitoke that everyone turns up. I may need run the old seat on it.

[F5 Dave]

keep a lookout on this section & there will be a date (ie probably this weekend if as per normal). Have to be there & signed on before 8:30. Have to park car in upper car park so unload, put bike in front pit with the other bikes & park up the top (they lease out the lower parks).

[koba]

Can someone PM me the day and time at Kaitoke that everyone turns up.

No, it's next Sunday. (17th)

Another thing about those brakes, I find the outer dust seals sometimes split and bind up in between the piston and bore. I guess you have them together again but if you have further problems pull 'em apart again and have a real good look at those seals.

[mossy1200]

No, it's next Sunday. (17th)

Another thing about those brakes, I find the outer dust seals sometimes split and bind up in between the piston and bore. I guess you have them together again but if you have further problems pull 'em apart again and have a real good look at those seals.

Yes. I had to remove a strand of dust seal that had rolled out and was catching the piston. It was most likely the only thing stopping it withdrawing as the fluid looked almost new and was still golden and had not gone dark. Its possible the brakes were done not long ago as the pistons were shiny and looked new. Also there was near new red silicon holding the inner piston caps on.

[mossy1200]

Seat arrived today and didnt even need trim to fit. Painted that up and the front guard. Number installed. Install tomorrow and ready for the 17th most likely on the old tires as the rear wont come untill Thursday.

[mossy1200]

Before and After

Couple of little bits to go but happy with the looks.

[Henk]

Looks good. Although that pipe looks a little on the loud side.

[mossy1200]

Looks good. Although that pipe looks a little on the loud side.

It has 2 mufflers so hope its ok. I dont think its loud but it is deep sounding. Has been raced before on those pipes.

[fi5hy]

Make sure you have a lock wired Sump and fill plug, catch bottle for carb and crank case vent and working brakes.

Fishie

[mossy1200]

Make sure you have a lock wired Sump and fill plug, catch bottle for carb and crank case vent and working brakes.

Fishie


All done.
:eek:

[crazy man]

looks like its gone together nicely..see you out there

[mossy1200]

Put the front tire on tonight. What a mission. I should have just payed 30 to have it put on.

I thought 90/80/17 should be easy.

Reality was the 120 tire on the 2.5inch rim was hard to break the bead and after making my own bead breaker still took 45minutes to get the old tire off. New tire sliped on easy then I drove it to the servo to inflate on their tire pump. Spent 30minutes with no success until I got some wire out and straped the tire to squeeze the centre pushing the walls out to get seal for the air going. Next tire ill take a tie down strap to make beading the tire easier or better still spend $30.

[F5 Dave]

I've had to use the vice on old tyres before & it still takes ages.

[Kickaha]

I've had to use the vice on old tyres before & it still takes ages.

I just go to work and use a tyre machine :bleh:

[Kendog]

I always pay the $30, I guess in buckets that means I am a cheque book racer.

[Henk]

I learnt to change tyres as a risk management issue when I was doing enduros. Still do the ocasional tyre at the track at buckets but they always seem to be for other people.

[richban]

Put the front tire on tonight. What a mission. I should have just payed 30 to have it put on.

I thought 90/80/17 should be easy.

Reality was the 120 tire on the 2.5inch rim was hard to break the bead and after making my own bead breaker still took 45minutes to get the old tire off. New tire sliped on easy then I drove it to the servo to inflate on their tire pump. Spent 30minutes with no success until I got some wire out and straped the tire to squeeze the centre pushing the walls out to get seal for the air going. Next tire ill take a tie down strap to make beading the tire easier or better still spend $30.

Best and quickest bead breaker there is.

Always helps if you have good levers and some soap and take your time. Getting the rage just makes it worse.

265021

[F5 Dave]

nah mate, my Biddle replica breaker is the biz.

[richban]

nah mate, my Biddle replica breaker is the biz.

Race yah..............

[mossy1200]

I made a better breaker at work and the rear only took a few minutes to remove.

My next issue is I got some Ally mx bars and the hole in the centre is to large to thread a bolt for a slider and to small to fit standard tefl bar plugs. I might need to put a dyno bolt in or maybe a bolt with 3 or 4 nuts or it and no more nails. The wind the bolt out after the glue dries. Any other ideas?

[Henk]

Slap in a long bolt with some hose around it the right OD and wind it up until the hose is nicely tight in the bar.

[koba]

Any other ideas?

Grub screws.

[mossy1200]

Ill be in at Steel and Tube tomorrow morning so i'll get some drop in anchors. We use them at work for installing threaded rod into concrete. I can sleeve the next size down with shrink sleeve before inserting.

The grub screws would be a good idea also to prevent them turning.

[Bert]

Ill be in at Steel and Tube tomorrow morning so i'll get some drop in anchors. We use them at work for installing threaded rod into concrete. I can sleeve the next size down with shrink sleeve before inserting.

The grub screws would be a good idea also to prevent them turning.

or you could buy a nice set of GPR clipons for $125 (made to suit your forks if not a standard size). PM Crazyman....

[mossy1200]

or you could buy a nice set of GPR clipons for $125 (made to suit your forks if not a standard size). PM Crazyman....
Its prob something for the future. My wifes making noise about costs. I managed to order alot before I got caught now I need man up and take the angry seks for a week before I spend more.

[husaberg]

. My wifes making noise and angry seks for a week .

Wow I must have wandered into the wrong forum.:lol:


My next issue is I got some Ally mx bars and the hole in the centre is to large to thread a bolt for a slider and to small to fit standard tefl bar plugs. I might need to put a dyno bolt in or maybe a bolt with 3 or 4 nuts or it and no more nails. The wind the bolt out after the glue dries. Any other ideas?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=483257008
JUst make the telfon plug bigger either that or used a plastic say LDPE (alkathyene) sleeve if its to big cut a section out of it and hammer home or use a sleeve and a Gib board anchor (now thats bucketactic):eek:
Dynabolt and a skateboard wheel?

[Henk]

Another option is what I usually use if you can find some. The bar end mounts for bark busters.

[mossy1200]

Wow I must have wandered into the wrong forum.:lol:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=483257008


The ally hollow bars internal is about 13mm(guess) not the normal 19mm

[mossy1200]

Another option is what I usually use if you can find some. The bar end mounts for bark busters.

bark busters?????????

[Henk]

Hand guard things for dirt bikes that stop you smashing your hands into trees

[husaberg]

The ally hollow bars internal is about 13mm(guess) not the normal 19mm
My next issue is I got some Ally mx bars and the hole in the centre is to large to thread a bolt for a slider and to small to fit standard tefl bar plugs. I might need to put a dyno bolt in or maybe a bolt with 3 or 4 nuts or it and no more nails. The wind the bolt out after the glue dries. Any other ideas?[/QUOTE]
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=483257008
Just make the telfon plug bigger either that or used a plastic say LDPE (alkathyene) sleeve if its to big cut a section out of it and hammer home or use a sleeve and a Gib board anchor (now thats bucketactic):eek:
Dynabolt and a skateboard wheel?

if you see the rest of the post you may see what i mean.
Bark busters are great but i wouldn't mind some spare genuine plugs mine are as above suggestions.oh here they are
http://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/product.aspx?ProductId=424

http://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/images/BBB27.jpg

IF the STD telfon plus are to big turn then in ther lathe/bench drill and file/chisel if you don't have access to a lathe.

[mossy1200]

My next issue is I got some Ally mx bars and the hole in the centre is to large to thread a bolt for a slider and to small to fit standard tefl bar plugs. I might need to put a dyno bolt in or maybe a bolt with 3 or 4 nuts or it and no more nails. The wind the bolt out after the glue dries. Any other ideas?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=483257008
Just make the telfon plug bigger either that or used a plastic say LDPE (alkathyene) sleeve if its to big cut a section out of it and hammer home or use a sleeve and a Gib board anchor (now thats bucketactic):eek:
Dynabolt and a skateboard wheel?

if you see the rest of the post you may see what i mean.
Bark busters are great but i wouldn't mind some spare genuine plugs mine are as above suggestions.oh here they arehttp://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/product.aspx?ProductId=424

http://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/images/BBB27.jpg[/QUOTE]

Yeah the drop in anchors I pic are dyno bolts. They spread by a pin the shape of a bullet being pushed forward by the bolt you insert. The only difference is that you do them up say 50% tight then tap them in almost home before the last tighten. The bolt keeps the drive pin locked forward. the good thing with these is you can take the bolt in and out and can use any head type like standard hex head bolts to fit deep into a recess.

They are like the bark buster bolts but work out to be a dollar each.

[Asher]

Try using the bar plugs from a shopping trolly

[husaberg]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=483257008
Just make the telfon plug bigger either that or used a plastic say LDPE (alkathyene) sleeve if its to big cut a section out of it and hammer home or use a sleeve and a Gib board anchor (now thats bucketactic):eek:
Dynabolt and a skateboard wheel?

if you see the rest of the post you may see what i mean.
Bark busters are great but i wouldn't mind some spare genuine plugs mine are as above suggestions.oh here they arehttp://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/product.aspx?ProductId=424

http://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/images/BBB27.jpg

Yeah the drop in anchors I pic are dyno bolts. They spread by a pin the shape of a bullet being pushed forward by the bolt you insert. The only difference is that you do them up say 50% tight then tap them in almost home before the last tighten. The bolt keeps the drive pin locked forward. the good thing with these is you can take the bolt in and out and can use any head type like standard hex head bolts to fit deep into a recess.

They are like the bark buster bolts but work out to be a dollar each.[/QUOTE]


Missed the pic of yours.yeah $1 vs $20 no competition there.
Of course you could always tap the handle bars and put a thread on the teflon plugs lighter and less bits as well.

[mossy1200]

10mm bolt size drop in anchor that has 12mm external with rachem sleeve works well.

[mossy1200]

1st outing on x1 went ok. It didnt blow up or fall apart.

Future wants are 28mm carb, new suspension front and rear and seat raised plus pegs droped if thats not enough. Im not that flexable anymore.

[F5 Dave]

well was good to see you out there, good job it dried up enough to give you a reasonable taste. maybe that starter idea wasn't so off mark. Although there is the hill for free if you can be bothered pushing it up.

[mossy1200]

well was good to see you out there, good job it dried up enough to give you a reasonable taste. maybe that starter idea wasn't so off mark. Although there is the hill for free if you can be bothered pushing it up.


Yes I had use the hill because im old and soft.
One footpeg lowered so far and found a crack in muffler bracket weld.
Started making old man seat cushion. also

[mossy1200]

Managed to find a 2010 r6 rear shock thats done 500km on the road so that going to serve the rear end.

Im not sure about the front. Im thinking replace the front end and rework the axel to suit. Possible a rsv1000r fork and tripple clamp set up.

[Yow Ling]

Managed to find a 2010 r6 rear shock thats done 500km on the road so that going to serve the rear end.

Im not sure about the front. Im thinking replace the front end and rework the axel to suit. Possible a rsv1000r shock and tripple clamp set up.

Maybe in hindsight a FXR or CBR would have worked out a bit cheaper

[F5 Dave]

Maybe some of those new Ohlins gas cartridge forks? Probably pick those up cheap enough.

[Drew]

Maybe some of those new Ohlins gas cartridge forks? Probably pick those up cheap enough.Actually, those are old news. What ya want is a "nix" front end these days old timer.

[F5 Dave]

Well it is buckets, I assumed he'd probably pull them off the front of one of those old 990s that have been put out to pasture.

[mossy1200]

Maybe some of those new Ohlins gas cartridge forks? Probably pick those up cheap enough.

Cheap ohlins race tech rebuild of existing shocks $900.

I got the rsv1000 forks because that sounds like fun to try and fit.



http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=485941158

Lowered pegs 1 inch and raised seat a inch also. Making seat pad now.

[Kendog]

I got the rsv1000 forks because that sounds like fun to try and fit.
Holy shit, I thought you were joking. Thats some serious stuff for a bucket.

[mossy1200]

Holy shit, I thought you were joking. Thats some serious stuff for a bucket.

They were priced well so I couldnt resist. Sell off the old forks and makes them cheepish.

[crazy man]

they should turn your bike into a chopper lol

[mossy1200]

they should turn your bike into a chopper lol

And you will be calling me Hoffman

[crazy man]

come on he is not as good looking as you:lol:

[richban]

Cheap ohlins race tech rebuild of existing shocks $900.

I got the rsv1000 forks because that sounds like fun to try and fit.



http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=485941158

Lowered pegs 1 inch and raised seat a inch also. Making seat pad now.

How much do the weigh?

[mossy1200]

How much do they weigh?

Lots of noodles.

I might just have to use one only.

They havent arrived yet.

[husaberg]

I was thinking maybe now that frame is looking a little bland maybe bling it up with Okada's old NSR250 frames. Go on i know you want to:devil2:

[mossy1200]

I was thinking maybe now that frame is looking a little bland maybe bling it up with Okada's old NSR250 frames. Go on i know you want to:devil2:

Slow down theres still plenty more bits needed before a frame upgrade.

Like

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=487279394

[husaberg]

Slow down theres still plenty more bits needed before a frame upgrade.

Like

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=487279394

ERR NOTE YOU HAD BEEN ALREADY OUT BID:devil2::bleh::D

Note the person who outbid you was, Hint he lives on the West Coast:clap:

[mossy1200]

ERR NOTE YOU HAD BEEN ALREADY OUT BID:devil2::bleh::D

Note the person who outbid you was Hint he lives on the West Coast:clap:

Hate that.

[mossy1200]

Took the front end apart today. the tripple was a mess but the bearings were good. Looks like bearings replaced onto old shaft which is worn at the top bearing area. Im thinking the aprilia front end will need a new shaft custom made to work. Its in Wellington but not delivered to me yet so I guess ill find out how much work ill need do tomorrow to make this work.

Got a new muffler assy today. The ones on the bike weigh about 4-5kg and the new is well under 1kg. i think I saw one of these on another bucket last weekend.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=485861573

[husaberg]

I would assume your dimensions are 30x55x17 lower and 26x47x15? that what most of the era 250's are these dimension are shared by quite a few Honda's and Suzuki's.It may not be a matter of a custom shaft rather just fitting the honda shaft to the Aprilia yokes.
You never know it could just involve a bearing swap and a spacer to take up length if you are lucky.

[mossy1200]

I would assume your dimensions are 30x55x17 lower and 26x47x15? that what most of the era 250's are these dimension are shared by quite a few Honda's and Suzuki's.It may not be a matter of a custom shaft rather just fitting the honda shaft to the Aprilia yokes.
You never know it could just involve a bearing swap and a spacer to take up length if you are lucky.

Its possible I could just be looking at a new top bearing but I could always turn a new shaft to the honda spec and weld that into the lower clamp and use a sleave to make up the difference in the top. Its possible just a new top bearing. Will know more when I have the new front end. its at the PB transport depo in lower hut at the moment so it should arrive tomorrow. The lower honda bearing is the larger shaft size of the two. The honda shaft shaft is smaller at the top. Im thinking the aprilia shaft is same top and bottom. Also the top off the frame seems to have 2 sizes of outer bearing holder steps and it currently uses the lower smaller of the 2 so maybe the larger will be usable with another honda bottom bearing installed at the top.

[husaberg]

Its possible I could just be looking at a new top bearing but I could always turn a new shaft to the honda spec and weld that into the lower clamp and use a sleave to make up the difference in the top. Its possible just a new top bearing. Will know more when I have the new front end. its at the PB transport depo in lower hut at the moment so it should arrive tomorrow. The lower honda bearing is the larger shaft size of the two. The honda shaft shaft is smaller at the top. Im thinking the aprilia shaft is same top and bottom. Also the top off the frame seems to have 2 sizes of outer bearing holder steps and it currently uses the lower smaller of the 2 so maybe the larger will be usable with another honda bottom bearing installed at the top.

This is the size of the 250 rs Aprilia bearing the origional are said to be $250+
25x47x15 upper
25x52x16.25 lower

but wait it looks like the bearing for your forks may well be.

Inside Diameter: 35mm
Outside Diameter: 55mm
Width: 14.5mm

huge so you might need to sleeve the std Honda stem into the Aprilia yokes

[mossy1200]

This is the size of the 250 rs Aprilia bearing the origional are said to be $250+
25x47x15 upper
25x52x16.25 lower

but wait it looks like the bearing for your forks may well be.

Inside Diameter: 35mm
Outside Diameter: 55mm
Width: 14.5mm

huge so you might need to sleeve the std Honda stem into the Aprilia yokes

is a rsv1000 front

[husaberg]

is a rsv1000 front
yeah found that it looks like the bottom numbers are it thats a big stem But then again its from a big bike.

[mossy1200]

yeah found that it looks like the bottom numbers are it thats a big stem But then again its from a big bike.

It may be that I weld in a 16mm shaft for the top half and use one of these(pic bearing) and a bottom bearing from the rsv or remove the entire shaft from the rsv and make a shaft to the honda spec and use the original bearings.

[husaberg]

It may be that I weld in a 16mm shaft for the top half and use one of these(pic bearing) and a bottom bearing from the rsv or remove the entire shaft from the rsv and make a shaft to the honda spec and use the original bearings.

mmm...maybe those forks are not so cheap in the long run.... Oh well nearly unbeatable with regards to the bucket bling factor though.
it would be interesting to see the total cost of the project as i guess the spend will exceed mine anyway, at least.
Having said that, er... yours actually runs.

ps measure up the mounts for the calipers when you get them.

[mossy1200]

mmm...maybe those forks are not so cheap in the long run.... Oh well nearly unbeatable with regards to the bucket bling factor though.
it would be interesting to see the total cost of the project as i guess the spend will exceed mine anyway, at least.
Having said that, er... yours actually runs.

Wife not complaining yet so build is still affordable.

[husaberg]

Wife not complaining yet so build is still affordable.

er.........YET

is she buried in the garden or something?

[mossy1200]

er.........YET

is she buried in the garden or something?

Its her birthday in 6 weeks she will just be adding as I go for a smack in my wallet later.

[mossy1200]

Both front and rear suspension arrived today.

Fitted the rear 2010 r6 shock which bolted straight in with zero mods. Result was rear lifted 20mm approx. Static sag 10mm with zero adjustments. Plenty of bling to fiddle with so should work well. Original eye to eye was 285mm and r6 is 290mm. Even the spring weight feels good but need a ride to tell more.

Front end did some work. Need a small amount of internal lathe work to mod my bearings then a 16mm shaft to put it all together so will drop the parts off to engineer tomorrow that.

[mossy1200]

Question

The only bearings I can find that will fit the aprilia axel and cbr wheel are 6905 25/42/9 . Do you think 9mm is wide enough for a bucket? I think its possible to fit two 9mm at one side and 1 at the other. Would this be worthwhile or does anyone know of a 25 internal 42 external thats wider?

I dont really feel like going to a thinner axel eg 20mm as it would need be a mission to get that into the fork design unless I went axel inside original using the original as the axel bearing spacers and had nut and bolt axel within.

[husaberg]

Question

The only bearings I can find that will fit the aprilia axel and cbr wheel are 6905 25/42/9 . Do you think 9mm is wide enough for a bucket? I think its possible to fit two 9mm at one side and 1 at the other. Would this be worthwhile or does anyone know of a 25 internal 42 external thats wider?

I dont really feel like going to a thinner axel eg 20mm as it would need be a mission to get that into the fork design unless I went axel inside original using the original as the axel bearing spacers and had nut and bolt axel within.

Why run with the Aprilia axle its made for a far far heavier bike. plus you already have a wheel that suits the std front axle is the std Honda one not wide enough as it would think it would be easier and cheaper and probably safer to sleeve the aprilia forks to suit the Honda axel or one the std Honda size? I GUESS I AM MISSING SOMETHING HERE?

[mossy1200]

Why run with the Aprilia axle its made for a far far heavier bike. plus you already have a wheel that suits the std front axle is the std Honda one not wide enough as it would think it would be easier and cheaper and probably safer to sleeve the aprilia forks to suit the Honda axel or one the std Honda size? I GUESS I AM MISSING SOMETHING HERE?

One side of the aprilia forks is thread screw and the other is very large as it has a quick release front end system.
cbr axel is a 2 piece unit at 15mm and not wide enough so would need to make a new axel. Because of the large differnce from 15mm to 25mm thread and about 35mm on the other side I would need to turn a 35mm shiney steel shaft to 20 mm along most of its length and then make a new thread end with internal thread spacer at the other to take the made axel.

[husaberg]

One side of the aprilia forks is thread screw and the other is very large as it has a quick release front end system.
cbr axel is a 2 piece unit at 15mm and not wide enough so would need to make a new axel. Because of the large differnce from 15mm to 25mm thread and about 35mm on the other side I would need to turn a 35mm shiney steel shaft to 20 mm along most of its length and then make a new thread end with internal thread spacer at the other to take the made axel.

That's a problem, the threaded end can still have a thread insert i guess but the quick release? (not familiar with the design) but as you say a 35-20mm axle will be fraught with problems.

[mossy1200]

That's a problem, the threaded end can still have a thread insert i guess but the quick release? (not familiar with the design) but as you say a 35-20mm axle will be fraught with problems.

What worries me is changing the axel design may effect the equil lift of the 2 forks as a pair(hense older bikes racing with fork braces). So the thicker axel will lock them together well but a hand made design might allow twist of axel angle etc.

The wheels bearing retainer on one side is very deep as half the speedo drive fits internally so I think I can get 2 bearings on that side giving me more sideway strength with 3 total(Pu : 8.15 kN ). Total load of 3 is higher than 2 originals(Pu :11.9kN).

New bearings times 3..

Designation : NA 6905
d : 25 mm
D : 42 mm
B : 30 mm
C : 38 kN
C0 : 62 kN
Pu : 8,15 kN
r : 13000 r/min
r1 : 15000 r/min
M : 0,16 kg


Old bearings times 2..

Principal dimensions Basic load ratings Fatigue Speed ratings Mass Designation
dynamic static load Reference Limiting
limit speed speed
d D B C C0 Pu * = SKF Explorer bearing

mm Pu kN kN r/min

15 42 13 11,9 5,4 38000 24000 0,082 6302 *


But .Im not sure that im not forking this up now.

[richban]

What worries me is changing the axel design may effect the equil lift of the 2 forks as a pair(hense older bikes racing with fork braces). So the thicker axel will lock them together well but a hand made design might allow twist of axel angle etc.

The wheels bearing retainer on one side is very deep as half the speedo drive fits internally so I think I can get 2 bearings on that side giving me more sideway strength with 3 total(Pu : 8.15 kN ). Total load of 3 is higher than 2 originals(Pu :11.9kN).

New bearings times 3..

Designation : NA 6905
d : 25 mm
D : 42 mm
B : 30 mm
C : 38 kN
C0 : 62 kN
Pu : 8,15 kN
r : 13000 r/min
r1 : 15000 r/min
M : 0,16 kg


Old bearings times 2..

Principal dimensions Basic load ratings Fatigue Speed ratings Mass Designation
dynamic static load Reference Limiting
limit speed speed
d D B C C0 Pu * = SKF Explorer bearing

mm Pu kN kN r/min

15 42 13 11,9 5,4 38000 24000 0,082 6302 *


But .Im not sure that im not forking this up now.



Do you need a lie down now.

Hand made axel might be quite dodgy. But a properly engineered and machined one should work fine:shutup:

[Yow Ling]

Most buckets use 12 or 15mm axles, 25 is way big.
Are these forks the best choice really ? a whole gsxr front end is an easy fit in anybike , has 39mm forks (i think) great brakes and anyone with a mig and an anglegrinder can do the stem swap.
the current fastest bucket down here has rg250 forks, and frame, 30 year old stuff !

[mossy1200]

Ok so everyone is saying I should pay to get a smaller axel made rather than fit different bearings.

Is this because 9mm wide bearings are 2 small 42/25/9 or because a 25mm hollow axel that would weigh the same as a 15mm solid axel?

Im not understanding how a axel designed for the forks isnt as good as a axel made for larger bearings.
Any axel made would need to be in 2 parts to fit the thread end on one side which is 25mm wide or no bearing can be fitted as the other end is 35mm on the fork clamp. A 2 part axel wont be as rigid on the forks letting them act individually rather than as a set. Dont forget they were desighned to be rigid.

[husaberg]

Ok so everyone is saying I should pay to get a smaller axel made rather than fit different bearings.

Is this because 9mm wide bearings are 2 small 42/25/9 or because a 25mm hollow axel that would weigh the same as a 15mm solid axel?

Im not understanding how a axel designed for the forks isnt as good as a axel made for larger bearings.
Any axel made would need to be in 2 parts to fit the thread end on one side which is 25mm wide or no bearing can be fitted as the other end is 35mm on the fork clamp. A 2 part axel wont be as rigid on the forks letting them act individually rather than as a set. Dont forget they were desighned to be rigid.

Post a pic of the attachment i was meaning to put in a thread like insert onto where you say it screws in and then lock the bugger in.
But without seeing it. I are simply flailing in the dark.

[mossy1200]

Post a pic of the attachment i was meaning to put in a thread like insert onto where you say it screws in and then lock the bugger in.
But without seeing it. I are simply flailing in the dark.


Mines the same as this one but it has no nut on the end. One of the forks has a 24mm machine thread end that the axel winds into. The other has a hole only. There is no nut ends. you wind it out with a screwdriver through the hole after loosening 2 small nuts like a clipon clamp at the larger end.


Sorry im in my dressing gown so no go garage tonight. I think the axel in photo is from a previous year. i have the rsv1000 showa shock version (53mm usd)

[husaberg]

Sorry im in my dressing gown so no go garage tonight.

Still laughing and slippers.

Can't really picture how it works without the nut.
But you might have your work cut out for you.
53mm they should be up to it (mine are 35mm) LOL

[mossy1200]

Still laughing and slippers.

Can't really picture how it works without the nut.
But you might have your work cut out for you.
53mm they should be up to it (mine are 35mm) LOL

Ok yes I put my slippers on and went to the garage. I am indeed the dildo you think I am.
The guy that sent me the forks taped the nut to the inside of the left fork leg so it wouldnt get lost so I wound the axel out when it would normally pull out.
It is clamped both sides after you tighten the thicker end and do up the nut you tighten the smaller side clamp.
I guess I could use a 42/15/13 or a 42/20/11 bearing with new shaft but theres a bit more work involved than 3 bearings a centre spacer and 2 outer spacers. I really need the tripple mounted, forks in and wheel in place maybe with the 3 bearings to work out disc space and caliper brackets before machining shafts and spacers of any size. The small 6905 bearings are cheap enough to use and discard after getting measurements if I dont keep them or even run a round before changing axel.
Maybe I should have sent my original forks to RT for racetech ohlins refurb. LOL:shit:

Im still going to keep going on this front as it owes me $500 so far. I thought about rgv and zxr usds but they all come with damaged sliders and pits plus leaking seals now for 200+ bucks.
At least these showas have preload, high and low speed rebound adjusters.

[mossy1200]

http://www.1tail.com/Moto_Wheels/Racing_Wheels/Aprilia_RSV1000_Moto_Wheels_BST_Wheels_-_16002-7004-16-000/707434/

[husaberg]

Ok yes I put my slippers on and went to the garage. I am indeed the dildo you think I am.
The guy that sent me the forks taped the nut to the inside of the left fork leg so it wouldnt get lost so I wound the axel out when it would normally pull out.
It is clamped both sides after you tighten the thicker end and do up the nut you tighten the smaller side clamp.
I guess I could use a 42/15/13 or a 42/20/11 bearing with new shaft but theres a bit more work involved than 3 bearings a centre spacer and 2 outer spacers. I really need the tripple mounted, forks in and wheel in place maybe with the 3 bearings to work out disc space and caliper brackets before machining shafts and spacers of any size. The small 6905 bearings are cheap enough to use and discard after getting measurements if I dont keep them or even run a round before changing axel.
Maybe I should have sent my original forks to RT for racetech ohlins refurb. LOL:shit:

Im still going to keep going on this front as it owes me $500 so far. I thought about rgv and zxr usds but they all come with damaged sliders and pits plus leaking seals now for 200+ bucks.
At least these showas have preload, high and low speed rebound adjusters.

Yeah all this gives me great pleasure because it make me think mine will be much easier.
i am procrastinating far to much on mine.I should harden up and pull me finger out of my arse.
Regardless you should end up with a built proof front end at least. Whatever system you use keep a watch on the bearing capacities.
I still think it would be easier to mod the fork ends to suit, but i guess the width will end up very long. like you say it won't cost much to mock it up and there might be room for a larger bearing in the wheel anyway. I will go off now my Cocoa is getting cold......

[gav]

Just buy the rim to suit the forks http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wheels/auction-488518584.htm

[mossy1200]

Front end is mounted. Front end is slightly shorter as its sitting now or can be raised to the height of the original forks.
Located the steering stops.

Measured up the area for bearings and getting one side filled with ally 4 mm on what was the speedo drive outer seal and lathed so will run with 2 bearings 42/25/9 on each side so 4 total. Getting the bearing crush spacer lathed to length tomorrow. Then measure the spacers after bearings installed.

[husaberg]

Shit you don't muck around do you.
so what were the bearings you used?
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265489&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1340516780

[mossy1200]

Shit you don't muck around do you.
so what were the bearings you used?
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=265489&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1340516780

They are a commercial deep ball bearing with grub locks. We used them on bag handler belt rollers. They take a hiding and were free leftovers. Im not even sure what they are listed as but im thinking they wont be cheap to get. I still needed to make a crush tube for them because they arnt like normal steering head bearings. The Aprilia shaft was so large there wasnt many options.

[richban]

Did yah weigh them? I have an MC21 bucket build on at the mo and am thinking of new forks. The MC28 forks I have are nice and light a 7.5kg with clamps and all. But not very adjustable. Will need emulators. Was wondering if something like what you have could work but a little concerned on weight.

[mossy1200]

Did yah weigh them? I have an MC21 bucket build on at the mo and am thinking of new forks. The MC28 forks I have are nice and light a 7.5kg with clamps and all. But not very adjustable. Will need emulators. Was wondering if something like what you have could work but a little concerned on weight.


No sorry I didnt but ill have them off again this weekend.
The tripple was lighter than the mc14 tripple but idd say the total would be about 9-10
PM me on Friday to remind me to weigh them.

[mossy1200]

The guy that sold me the forks will sell the clipons for 100 including freight so that solves that problem.

[mossy1200]

4 wheel bearings worked a treat. Need to remove 2 mm from rt side spacer to get wheel dead centre. Managed to get the new muffler mounted also. Made a template caliper mount adapter. Needs to be 15mm thick and larger around one of the mount holes on the final product. im not sure if ill find 15mm thick ally this weekend. If someone has some at home PM me. Also fitted an old man comfort seat to further raise the distance down to pegs. Clipons should come on Monday so should be ready for the next meeting.

[gav]

Looking good!!

[mossy1200]

Managed to get the front brakes mounted and wheel centred. Had to remake wheel spacers to move wheel across. Went with 5 pieces of ally for the caliper mount. Making 5 plates took a while and taping threads also. I made one spare plate because the caliper is single side pots so may need add a plate once pads reach half worn as the caliper sliders only have about 4mm travel to max distance but shouldnt need it I hope if I replace pads often.

Also need a front guard and it looks like ill need get a Aprilia one for the mounting fit.
Managed to get my kill switch into the centre of the key barrel holder and the old front number board bolted straight on.
Clipons and braided line to fit tomorrow.
Also need some allen key bolts to replace the big hex heads.

[mossy1200]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330755476135&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Found this one so have asked for a freight price but its expensive.

[husaberg]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330755476135&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Found this one so have asked for a freight price but its expensive.


Won't it be to wide? like 25mm too wide.

[mossy1200]

Won't it be to wide? like 25mm too wide.

Im using the aprilia triple clamps and aprilia axel so its stock width for a aprilia. Its the tripple clamp shaft and crush tube and axel spacers I have modified. Forks are still Aprilia stock spacing.

[gav]

Theres a Aprilia RS250 front guard on Trade Me, but I guess its not carbon enough for ya? :innocent: