RG150 tidy up?

[stoo]

I spent the weekend down south fetching my new mode of transport. This morning I pulled the fairings off and had a bit of a look at some stuff, and discovered some things.
First up, instruments and lights wouldn't cooperate, then they did, then it was intermittent. So I've got a loose wire somewhere. I'll give the wiring a once-over sometime so that it's all nice and reliable.
Second up, popped the power valve cover to discover a screw, a bracket and two springs just chillin' in there. Assuming the power valve is fine (didn't have time to check proper this morning, but it looked to be in order) I can just whack these back on and tighten them up real good, right?
Thirdly, it smoked a bunch (a bunch for a 2-stroke) when revved a bit. There was a bunch of oily stuff in the power valve housing, is that the likely cause?
Also I'm assuming the exhaust needs de-coked. I don't have a torch, so is there anywhere in Christchurch that does this?

It's also been sitting for the last four years so I'll give the carb a good clean (does the oil go through the carb on this? or is that a premix thing?), the chain's also a bit grimy so I'll whip that off and give it some love too. I ended up taking the radiator off, and the coolant looked all lovely and clean.

I'll do some more probing this evening, but it looks like once the above issues are sorted all I'll need is some fresh 98 and a date with the WOF man.

Anything I've missed? First two-stroke ownership so any input would be greatly appreciated.

[FruitLooPs]

Bit of info, RG150 tach will bounce around and be spastic if the battery charge is low - since its sat for years that'll be why. Get it charged up or replaced and see if you still have tach/lights issue. :)

Also it can/will run just dandy on 91, 2-strokes are pretty low compression and I was told to run mine on 91 octane which I did for a long time no worries. Use decent synthetic like TTS oil, no cheap lawn mower stuff.

How much smoke is there exactly, 2-strokes smoke plenty and an RG150 revved out will smoke a fair stack. They have an oil tank in the back under the rear seat cover - make sure you keep it full not worth seizing an engine over!

the powervalve housings do get oily, they need to have some lube to actuate I suppose - but as I recall most of it must be coming past the valves. De-coke the exhaust and give the valves (two of them) a clean up (oven cleaner in a bag overnight works I hear).

I'd change the gear oil while you're at it.

Plenty of folk here run them in s/stock racing - "Oyster" on here was a real guru with them, great guy and in CHCH too - not sure if he is still working on them though.

I used to have a scan of the full service manual, dunno where it is now though - can probably find it through KB.

[stoo]

Cher for the info. finished most of the aforementioned cleaning/wiring stuff and the dials and lights have settled down and are behaving correctly. Also did gearbox oil, and pulled the plug out which looked fairly clean, but I'll replace that anyway.Just got carb and exhaust cleaning to go, but I might leave the exhaust till I've got some stickers of legality since the budgets looking a bit skinny again and I'll probs need a new rear tire as well.Smokes more than I've seen other 2strokes smoke, but it might just need a good blat. Oil tanks full, dunno what it is though. Is it worth replacing unknown oil with decent stuff?Power valves look fine, but what's the breather-looking pipe that connects to the cover? Is it just a breather? Can't figure out where the other end is supposed to go.Cheers, the guy I bought it from gave me the manual on a CD so I've got one already. The links to manuals I found here are mostly dead.

[Asher]

If you want to de-coke your exhaust you can use a gas tourch if you have access to one, google how its done but its a simple job.
That breather pipe on your power valve cover is just that. Just helps clearing out all of the oil and grime and dumps it on the inside of your fairings instead.
Probably better that you change your oil, you should be using a full synthetic oil, I use castrol TTS.
Since you dont know what oil you have it may not be fully synthetic, different oil types have a different mix ratio so you shouldnt mix them either and that could be the cause of your extra smoke too but if its hardly smoking when its warm its not a big deal.

[stoo]

If you want to de-coke your exhaust you can use a gas tourch if you have access to one, google how its done but its a simple job.
That breather pipe on your power valve cover is just that. Just helps clearing out all of the oil and grime and dumps it on the inside of your fairings instead.
Probably better that you change your oil, you should be using a full synthetic oil, I use castrol TTS.
Since you dont know what oil you have it may not be fully synthetic, different oil types have a different mix ratio so you shouldnt mix them either and that could be the cause of your extra smoke too but if its hardly smoking when its warm its not a big deal.

Sadly no gas torch for me... Can you do it with caustic soda? Can you even buy that here?
Cool. Yeah figured new oil might be a good idea. I assume the oil pump needs to be changed to match the oil as well.
Also mildly concerning was that the gearbox oil I replaced was quite runny, and may have smelled a bit of petrol but I couldn't really tell. Replaced that with workshop-manual spec oil, and I'll check that after a couple of k's and see if it's changed.

Anyway took it for a blat up and down the street this evening for the first time and concluded that this bikes gonna keep me happy for quite some time!
Found a weird intermittent flat spot round 8k rpm though, which disappeared after I got going, and then came back when I started again.

[Asher]

Not sure about caustic soda.
The only thing i look for in gearbox oil is that it isnt milking indicating a water leak, but could hurt to change it so you know you have decent stuff in it.
Im not sure if you need to change the setting in the oil pump, it may have never been changed from factory, i have never touched mine.
Many 2 strokes have a small flat spot around 8k rpm anyway, but it could be a average battery. The powers valve open around 8k rpm so the battery might be causing a small lag. Give it a charge and see if it changes.

[stoo]

Caustic soda was just something I found on the google machine, I'll give it a go if they sell the stuff here.No milkiness, but no viscosity either. Anyway, I changed it and I'll see if the new oil goes the same way.Sounds like the flat spot is probably the battery, it was night time so the headlights were on. It didn't like idling with them on, and if I killed it and left them on they wen't dim pretty quickly.Don't think just a charge is gonna cut it though, probably time for a new one.In other news, going to try for a WOF sticker today, and it'll probably need a new rear tyre. But I'll be replacing it asap regardless of WOF requirements. Any recommended motorcycle tyre places in Christchurch? I don't really know where to start looking.

[Asher]

You should be using a fairly light oil anyway since it has a wet clutch, the rgv250 manual suggests 10w/40

Ive only ever had to replace 1 tyre and i used Pitlane in Darfeild who i recommend.
Probably easiest to send out a bunch of emails and go with the best quote

[stoo]

Yeah, I've started enquiring about tyre costs

Also, where in Christchurch does one go for a WOF. Besides VTNZ, who I avoid like the plague after so many shitty experiences with them checking cars and my last bike.
Everywhere so far either doesn't do bikes, or does bikes but not right now because the dude who inspects them is away or something.

[FruitLooPs]

Must be heaps of places for WOF, but I go to garage at 580 Wairakei Rd since its near me. Always had a guy around who can do motorbikes and seem like a reasonable bunch :)

With a new battery the flatspot should hopefully go as thats right around the RPM that its opening/closing the valves. Also I believe lubing the cables and having them adjusted properly is a good measure - I was told otherwise the excess stress can cause the PV actuator motor to burn out in fairly short order (same with sticky/unclean valves I suppose).

There is a bullet connector somewhere that you can hook up to a switched 12v supply through the battery that will just actuate the valves open and shut with the flip of a switch/push of button which would be very helpful for setting them.

[Yow Ling]

pm me and I will give you a trye, I just fitted a race tyre on a rg and the road tyre is on no use to me

[Yow Ling]

.

There is a bullet connector somewhere that you can hook up to a switched 12v supply through the battery that will just actuate the valves open and shut with the flip of a switch/push of button which would be very helpful for setting them.

the connector you mention is near the battery neg, just connect it to earth and the PVs will go to full open

[stoo]

the connector you mention is near the battery neg, just connect it to earth and the PVs will go to full openAha, I wondered what that was. The disconnected plug had me confused for a bit when I was sorting the wiring.

[koba]

Aha, I wondered what that was. The disconnected plug had me confused for a bit when I was sorting the wiring.

Make sure you use the workshop manual when adjusting the powervalves.

EDIT: In your wiring "Once over" have a real good look behind and left of the steering head where the wires pass to the outside of the frame.
There is probably a shitty screw together connector there. On one bike I worked on it was left (factory) with a bit of exposed wire hanging out. That wasn't a problem until it rubbed through the paint on the frame...

[stoo]

Stupid snow postponed the arrival of my new clutch lever, the current one is snapped which is frowned upon (also frowned upon by me), and suggests that mr WOF tester should be searching for other crash damage. I think I'll wait till it arrives.
Picked up tyre today, had much more life left than the current one. Cher Yow Ling, it's gone to a good home!
So no riding for me this weekend, which is probably for the best considering the ice/grit that's hanging round.

Yeah, in my hunt for electrical gremlins I found some wires up there (on the inside of the frame though) with munched insulation. Some heat shrink to stop them molesting each other sorted the dodginess. Everything else was pretty much fine.

I might have a go at making the rear a bit nicer to look at. The current setup looks a bit like a farm bike...

[stoo]

All Legal!

Runs a bit better with a new plug but it still bogs down at the higher end of 7k. It's not really a flat spot, it just won't rev past that so I have to shift down if I want to accelerate. Usually it gets past the boggy bit the second or third try but if you stop at the lights it starts over again. It's the same under no load, takes a few goes to get it above 8k.

I'll set the power valves as per the workshop manual, but could it be shitty fuel supply, or something dirty in the fuel line? I don't think it's spark related. The spark looks pretty sparky.