2006 zx6r engine noise

[TIBLE_90]

When ideling, and riding there is a clicking noise coming from the engine. A friend of mine told me it was due to the cam belt being loose. Does anyone know anything about this? i have a done a litle research, and found out that it is in fact related to the cam belt. Is it an easy fix, and is it a bad thing? it's been like this for a while btw.

Cheers for any advice in advance.

[steve_t]

You can google 'kawi tick'. It's the cam chain tensioner. It's normal

[TIBLE_90]

Ah, so it's nothing to worry about then? I assumed it was normal until my friend told me otherwise considering it's been doing it since I got the bike with 5,000 k's on it.

[Drew]

From an engineering point of view, a single noticeable clicking noise is bad! That said, if it's common as muck without causing issue, there's the strong chance it's simply a design flaw that'll cause no problem.

I'd replace the cam chain tensioner if it was my bike either way.

[steve_t]

Seems to be no problems associated with the ticking. Just be aware that you might want to check your valve clearances too cos they can be a source of noise

[White trash]

If I had a ZX6 and the cam belt was ticking, I'd take it right the fuck back where I'd bought it from and demand they tell me what sort of shit bike they'd stuck ZX6 stickers on in order to sell it to my stupid arse.

I'd also consider looking closely at the powerband.

[Madness]

Midas do cheap cambelts.

[ducatilover]

If I had a ZX6 and the cam belt was ticking, I'd take it right the fuck back where I'd bought it from and demand they tell me what sort of shit bike they'd stuck ZX6 stickers on in order to sell it to my stupid arse.

I'd also consider looking closely at the powerband.

:lol::lol::lol:
Wot 'e sed.



You can pull the tensioner out, strip it down and clean everything up, re-lube it and put it back in. Then turn the engine over by hand about three times.
I did notice however that in the online trading there is a manual tensioner (I forget what years) which is nice and bling, but it will need adjusting...obviously, on a regular basis.
I had pretty nice tick on my ZZR6 and ZZR4, sorted by pulling a lubing the tensioner.


I like pulling and lubing.:rolleyes:

[Haggis2]

How bout this http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/150343-APE-KT750-manual-cam-chain-tensioner-zx6r?p=1130335787#post1130335787 :msn-wink:

[Rcktfsh]

How bout this http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/150343-APE-KT750-manual-cam-chain-tensioner-zx6r?p=1130335787#post1130335787 :msn-wink:

Bargain at $50.00, easy to fit only issues with them are people over tightening, wind in till firm then back off a 1/4 turn.

[nodrog]

the injectors make a ticking noise

[bsasuper]

If you get a new cambelt, dont use a bosch, they are prone to snapping at low K's.Also some kawakas came out with left hand injectors and when they were matched with the inside out ECU, make a hell of a noise.:lol:

[steve_t]

the injectors make a ticking noise

It's not the injectors! Next to the injectors is a Kawi installed crocodile that has a clock inside it. That's what you can hear and that's what makes you nervous

[otter]

You don't need a new camchain (99% sure it's not a belt). They come with an automatic tensioner. If it's really noisy (they usually rattle a bit) you can undo one of the bolts on the tensioner (not the big one). Then undo the bolt on the other side, slowly, while making sure the tensioner is coming out a little, you'll hear a clack (similar to the sound your ratchet makes) as the auto adjuster adjusts itself on notch in, don't go any further...two clicks and you'll need to reset the whole thing. Next just bolt everything back down and you should be good. Otherwise...manual chain tensioner for you.

[Fast Eddie]

You don't need a new camchain (99% sure it's not a belt). They come with an automatic tensioner. If it's really noisy (they usually rattle a bit) you can undo one of the bolts on the tensioner (not the big one). Then undo the bolt on the other side, slowly, while making sure the tensioner is coming out a little, you'll hear a clack (similar to the sound your ratchet makes) as the auto adjuster adjusts itself on notch in, don't go any further...two clicks and you'll need to reset the whole thing. Next just bolt everything back down and you should be good. Otherwise...manual chain tensioner for you.

haha, thats a new one..

I recon that will overtension it if anything, the tensioner will extend out a bit as u slackin off the bolts and now when u bolt it back down its going to be extended further than it should be and if its working properly it may not back itself off and stretch your cam chain or destroy the tensioner even faster - or if the tensioner is already stuffed this wouldn't make a difference the tensioner will just back off as soon as the engine starts running.

you can however use a long bolt and turn your auto tensioner into a manual tensioner for about $2 dollars for a pack of nuts n bolts of the correct size.

you can google how to do it, it was easy as for the blade.. or pm me for rough instructions. its bloody easy, you don't even have to remove the tensioner from the bike. (im referring to my blade anyway, dunno what your bikes setup is like)

oh and if you get further into this, and have tried a few tensioner fixes.. replacements modifications whatever and the noise still persists it is quite possible you have to replace cam chain.. they do stretch and apparently quite easy. mine did, good news is for me anyway the cam chain was waaay cheaper than replacement tensioners

[ducatilover]

haha, thats a new one..

I recon that will overtension it if anything, the tensioner will extend out a bit as u slackin off the bolts and now when u bolt it back down its going to be extended further than it should be and if its working properly it may not back itself off and stretch your cam chain or destroy the tensioner even faster - or if the tensioner is already stuffed this wouldn't make a difference the tensioner will just back off as soon as the engine starts running.

you can however use a long bolt and turn your auto tensioner into a manual tensioner for about $2 dollars for a pack of nuts n bolts of the correct size.

you can google how to do it, it was easy as for the blade.. or pm me for rough instructions. its bloody easy, you don't even have to remove the tensioner from the bike. (im referring to my blade anyway, dunno what your bikes setup is like)

oh and if you get further into this, and have tried a few tensioner fixes.. replacements modifications whatever and the noise still persists it is quite possible you have to replace cam chain.. they do stretch and apparently quite easy. mine did, good news is for me anyway the cam chain was waaay cheaper than replacement tensioners

What you're meant to do is take the tensioner out, clean it up, retract it back, pull the spring out, fit the tensioner, insert the spring, fit the 12mm bolt over the spring and then turn the engine over by hand three times. You'll hear the tensioner taking up the slack.
If that doesn't sork, your tensioner sucks.

There will also be a spec for the spring free length, best to measure this while it's out.


Manual tensioner is a neat idea, I'd do it but I have the only two decent tensioners left in the world :bleh:

[Fast Eddie]

then turn the engine over by hand three times.



each to their own, I'm a bit flash so I've got a starter motor that I use, its mint, u just push a button :D

the blade tensioner sounds diff to what your describing tho.. in regards to modifying it and installing/removal..

[bsasuper]

each to their own, I'm a bit flash so I've got a starter motor that I use, its mint, u just push a button :D

the blade tensioner sounds diff to what your describing tho.. in regards to modifying it and installing/removal..

He means turn it over by hand, ie SLOW, so the valves dont go smashy smashy into the pistons:pinch:

[Fast Eddie]

He means turn it over by hand, ie SLOW, so the valves dont go smashy smashy into the pistons:pinch:

yup I'm sure he does ;)

[ducatilover]

each to their own, I'm a bit flash so I've got a starter motor that I use, its mint, u just push a button :D

the blade tensioner sounds diff to what your describing tho.. in regards to modifying it and installing/removal..

:bleh: I'm talkin' Kawasaki ones.
Starter motor cranks fast though and hand cranking (giggity) doesn't. :niceone:

[Fast Eddie]

:bleh: I'm talkin' Kawasaki ones.
Starter motor cranks fast though and hand cranking (giggity) doesn't. :niceone:

hehe - the mrs is pro at hand cranking aye..

lol I'm evolving as a kb member.. I started off as a normal(ish) human.. and now the constant sarcasm and piss taking and the trolling and the painful puns and jokes begin.. on the plus I have McDonalds for lunch (early lunch)

p.s. how do you hand crank (giggity) u just chuck it in gear and roll the back wheel or somethin? or has your kwaka got one of those handles at the front that you wind up to get it going :D hehe

[ducatilover]

hehe - the mrs is pro at hand cranking aye..

lol I'm evolving as a kb member.. I started off as a normal(ish) human.. and now the constant sarcasm and piss taking and the trolling and the painful puns and jokes begin.. on the plus I have McDonalds for lunch (early lunch)

p.s. how do you hand crank (giggity) u just chuck it in gear and roll the back wheel or somethin? or has your kwaka got one of those handles at the front that you wind up to get it going :D hehe
Excellent :corn:
Pop the timing cover off, 19mm on a ratchet and crank away (or get the mrs to)
I'm surprised the GN doesn't have a hand crank...:laugh: