Gutters - house/rain

[pzkpfw]

Another of my hopeful DIY questions, hoping a KBer has some knowledge to share...

I've got a 8.3m section of gutter where the fall is all wrong, and one end is sitting with a permanent 1.5 inch pool of water in it.

Worse, is that it's all stupidly boxed-in with rivited on metal flashing. Must have seemed good to some architect.

The trouble with that is the boxing includes all the soffits and stuff, so if the gutters overflow, the water is trapped near the house.

There are overflow things on the house guttering, but only one on the 8.3m section, and it's at the opposite end to where the pooling is (it's near the down pipe!).

So I'd like to add a new downpipe to the end of the gutter where the fall is wrong - but because of the metal boxing I just don't have access to the gutters, to be able to insert a new section with a normal downpipe bit.

So the question is: is there a kind of pipe that can be added to the bottom of an existing gutter? The plastic gutters are flat-bottomed, so I'd hope to be able to cut a hole in the soffit, and a hole in the bottom of the gutter, and stick a pipe up there (it'd have to be a narrower diameter than a normal down pipe) that somehow attaches to the gutter.

There's another normal downpipe nearby that I could route this new one to.

Any ideas?


(This is all 5.3 m off the ground, so to do it "properly" would mean renting scaffolding so I can safely remove the metal boxing, to get access to the gutters, to do whatever. (The boxing on that side is one short bit and one very long bit. Of course, the long bit is on the side with the screwed up drop.))

[BMWST?]

its probably Klass internal or concealed fascia gutter.Not sure how the gutter itself is supported but the whole thing sits on brackets that are nailed to the ends of the trusses or rafters.
Its not the architects problem it down to how it was installed.Quite often the gutter fascia that is installed is different to what was originally on the drawings,quite oftern related to the price of the whole roof /gutter fascia price.A lot of people like the fact you cant actually see the gutter

[steve_t]

Chuck up a photo if you can

[paturoa]

Yeah there are a variety of outlets where you cut into the bottom of the existing gutter and straight down through the soffite (sp?). Then insert the outlet from above with a bunch of silicon and the downpipe from below.

First pic I found http://www.lowes.com/pd_11577-205-85051_0__?productId=3009339

[Akzle]

get to your guttering section of bunnings. all things are possible.
you can get mid-section and end-section down-pipe bits, cut the bit that pools off (leave about an inch to overlap the down-pipe bit) and connect downpipe. this involves awesome melt-plastic goo. you have been warned.

else option: get a pry bar and lift the pooling section, whack a 4" nail into something underneath= fall to existing downpipe.

[jellywrestler]

photos would help...

[pzkpfw]

its probably Klass internal or concealed fascia gutter.Not sure how the gutter itself is supported but the whole thing sits on brackets that are nailed to the ends of the trusses or rafters.
Its not the architects problem it down to how it was installed.Quite often the gutter fascia that is installed is different to what was originally on the drawings,quite oftern related to the price of the whole roof /gutter fascia price.A lot of people like the fact you cant actually see the gutter

Yes, I agree it was installed badly, but my issue with the design is that there's little room for problems. Gutters do sometimes overflow, even if installed perfectly (especially one 5.3 m off the ground on a section next to a forest...).

I'd rather just have "normal" gutters that are visible, but where if they overflow the rain falls to the ground instead of running to the walls of the house.

I wouldn't buy a house with this kind of guttering again.


Chuck up a photo if you can

Tommorrow...


Yeah there are a variety of outlets where you cut into the bottom of the existing gutter and straight down through the soffite (sp?). Then insert the outlet from above with a bunch of silicon and the downpipe from below.

First pic I found http://www.lowes.com/pd_11577-205-85051_0__?productId=3009339

Ahh... that's what I was thinking about. There'd be a lip the water wouldn't get ovber - but far less than the 1.5 inches I currently get sitting in the gutter.

Will investigate that further...


get to your guttering section of bunnings. all things are possible.

you can get mid-section and end-section down-pipe bits, cut the bit that pools off (leave about an inch to overlap the down-pipe bit) and connect downpipe. this involves awesome melt-plastic goo. you have been warned.

else option: get a pry bar and lift the pooling section, whack a 4" nail into something underneath= fall to existing downpipe.

Because of the metal boxing, I just don't have the kind of access I'd need to have, to be able to do that kind of work (inserting normal downpipe bits ) on the gutters.

But yes, knowing the sort of thing I want is available (and it's not just some dumb idea I came up with) Bunnings is due for a recon.


Thanks everyone.

[pzkpfw]

photos would help...

Not very good light.

In the second pic, the soffit to the left (the area behind my crude drawing) slopes downwards to the bottom edge of the metal boxing. To the right of that it's FLAT, so any water that gets in there "behind" the plastic gutter is not "helped" away from the house.

[Usarka]

Gutted....

[awa355]

When it is raining, it is too wet to fix it, when it is dry, there's no need to fix it. :laugh:

[flyingcrocodile46]

Ahh... that's what I was thinking about. There'd be a lip the water wouldn't get ovber - but far less than the 1.5 inches I currently get sitting in the gutter.

Will investigate that further....

That link was for American products.

Sounds like you have your head around what to do and why you are doing it.

These are a couple of Marley gutter droppers and the glue needed. There is no guarantee that the droppers are correct for the profile of the guttering that was actually installed, however they are your best bet. There are a range of downpipe and dropper diameters so best ensure DP and dropper sizes are the same when you buy them

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg305/flyingcrocodile46/droppers.jpg

If you can get access to a lower section of roof you can always check whether the bottom is all or only partially curved (ie partially flat)

Also make sure you clean and dry the area real good. The gutter doesn't leak into your soffit and track water accross to the wall yet, it may certainly do so once you cut it and create a potential leak point.


.

[Nova.]

bloody hell if you spent the time fixing it rather then sitting around thinking of different ways to do this and that and blah blah blah, it'd be done by now.
seriously it aint hard..:weird:

[Winston001]

Spoutings are a pain. Most people don't even see them and eventually wonder why there is water pouring out onto footpaths or worse, down the inside walls. Fortunately my dad taught me at an early age to clean the spouting.

These days I remove the downpipe and re-secure it with a heavy screw. When it's gutter cleaning time, detach the downpipe then hose out the gutter with all the leaves and dirt falling to ground instead of blocking the downpipe.

Personally I like the concealed spouting but yes, its a bit hard to get at.

[pzkpfw]

bloody hell if you spent the time fixing it rather then sitting around thinking of different ways to do this and that and blah blah blah, it'd be done by now.
seriously it aint hard..:weird:

That'd be the attitude of the guy who screwed it up in the first place. It's like he (or she) thought "yeah, I'll not waste time measuring, I'll just get on with banging it up" - thus the damn thing doesn't fall the right way.

It doesn't hurt to ask a question on a discussion forum, to see what good advice people have. (Or to see if my own idea is something "possible".)

I want to fix the problem, but "properly" so it doesn't cause more problems (including loss of value to the house by doing bodgy looking shit). I'm happy to say I'm no expert, and I ask for advice.

Same as I'd do with my bike when an issue is beyond my knowledge. I'd ask for advice here.


... These days I remove the downpipe and re-secure it with a heavy screw. When it's gutter cleaning time, detach the downpipe then hose out the gutter with all the leaves and dirt falling to ground instead of blocking the downpipe. ...

I've seen the "gutter witch" people advertising one of their products in T.V., which is a thing you insert into the downpipe that lets you quickly divert the flow away from the drains, to do exactly what you suggest. Seems a good idea (though not sure I'd stick one of them on every downpipe the house has, so your method seems easier).

[steve_t]

Not very good light.

In the second pic, the soffit to the left (the area behind my crude drawing) slopes downwards to the bottom edge of the metal boxing. To the right of that it's FLAT, so any water that gets in there "behind" the plastic gutter is not "helped" away from the house.

Wow. That is an frickin awful design! The water was always going to pool there. I was wondering if your house might have subsided on one side but nah, it's just the shit design!
So yeah, I see what you mean about having to cut through the soffit as well as the gutter. Bugger


bloody hell if you spent the time fixing it rather then sitting around thinking of different ways to do this and that and blah blah blah, it'd be done by now.
seriously it aint hard..:weird:

LOL. Gixxer... 'nuf said