Just got my Learners and want a 250cc bike. Help please?

[Alexofbbulgaria]

Hey guys so I've been thinking about getting my bike licence for a while so I did Basic handling and theory all this week, I am keen to start riding but I don't yet have a bike!!!

I do not know anything about motorbikes to tell you the truth, I have been told that If I wanted a cheap bike my BHS instructor told me not to go below $1,000 as its more trouble than its worth. What I would like to know Is what is a good reliable bike that is not too expensive to get parts for in NZ??

I'm afraid to jump for the first thing that I see that is cheap until I have first talked to some experts :) So if any experts out there could help me out here please tell me about your first bike/bikes and what you recommend and would advise to stay clear of :)

I'm sorry if someone has already asked this I haven't had a thorough look through yet. Thanks in advance everyone, I cant wait to get my first bike and get on the road.

[neels]

You've said you've been warned not to go under $1000, how much is your maximum to spend. Makes a big difference when bike shopping.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

I was hoping to not go much higher than 1500, but if the bike was good and well recommended by you guys then I'd be willing to go over that by a hundred or two. It'd just mean that I wouldn't be on a bike until a later date than I had anticipated.

So I hear laws changing 1st of October and the 250cc bikes with grunt will be no longer allowed unless you get an exemption. Is it at all realistic to be expecting to find one of the following bikes under $1,500:

Aprilia RS250 (all models and variants) 250
Honda NSR250 (all models and variants) 250
Kawasaki KR1 (all models and variants) 250
Suzuki RGV250 (all models and variants) 250
Yamaha TZR250 (all models and variants) 250

[Alexofbbulgaria]

just got the answer to that question on my own, that's a no to under $1,500. Still any suggestions for something cheap and reliable aswel as been not to difficult to source cheap parts if something broke. I will be using this bike for mostly riding to university, so 50km/h speed but the ocassional weekday and most weekends going over the harbour bridge and on motorway to see my girlfriend in Browns Bay. That is the main reason I want the maximum cc a leaner can get. I weigh 105kg and am slightly above average height, I think im 185cmish. I hope that can help with recomendations. I hear stories about different rideing styles and being cramped and all this and I'm so unsure what to start with now argg


EDIT: I am also starting to learn that a good 250cc is out of my price range, at least as far as I have seen. So if there are any recommendations for under 250cc bikes that can basically keep up with a average 250cc bike would be much appreciated :)

[Lelitu]

your best bet is to go to the local bike shops, and sit on them
take them for a test ride if they'll let you.

a good bike for you is likely to be nothing like a good bike for J Random internet person.

there were a half dozen 250's I was looking at when I bought my bike
all but one was simply too small and cramped
the one I bought was pretty much bottom of the list when I started looking in the shops
and turned out the best fitting of them all.

[Sed57]

Suzuki GN250 or a Yamaha Scorpio are probably ones to consider. They have a more upright riding position, so you'll be able to gentle start working on your core strength when you're riding. I'd stay away from any sports bikes, my first bike was a Hyosung GT250S and it's just massively uncomfortable. Because I haven't worked on any of my core strength it's not long before all my weight is on my hands, and they start going numb after 20 minutes of riding.

I'm not sure if I've even seen any bikes around the $1500 mark, especially 250cc, but I can't think of any decent bikes under 250cc. You'll probably have more luck with around $2000? This is just from my own limited experience as a new rider. Don't forget about the costs for your riding gear!

[Akzle]

your best bet is to go to the local bike shops, and sit on them
take them for a test ride if they'll let you.

a good bike for you is likely to be nothing like a good bike for J Random internet person.

there were a half dozen 250's I was looking at when I bought my bike
all but one was simply too small and cramped
the one I bought was pretty much bottom of the list when I started looking in the shops
and turned out the best fitting of them all.
+1 on this.
also. do a search. i'm sure this topic has been done to death.

personally i'd go for a larger one. a 400 on the LAMs list, ie.

it is unlikely (as you've found) to get any of the two smokers for under 1.5k
IF however, you want one, now would be the time to buy, as having ridden one for X months, you're more likely to get the legal "exemption" you MAY find an rgv150-250 or an NSR in your price range, but it's likely to need more money thrown at it in short order.

the best bet would be get an older (80s-early 90s) bike, they're easier to work on and generally more "bulletproof", while not as sporty or l33t or fast as a newer bike, they're more forgiving of ignorant/bad owners.

basically.. find some biker people. ride their bikes (/or at a bike shop). decide what you do/dont like about each and find the best fit.

personally i've never put a bike down without being hit by something first, but a lot of people worry about being n00b and dropping their bike - if this is you, get one with less expensive plastic bits on the sides.



Suzuki GN250 or a Yamaha Scorpio are probably ones to consider. They have a more upright riding position, so you'll be able to gentle start working on your core strength when you're riding.


the centrist-upright riding position doesn't suit everyone. it suits me because i started on farm bikes, it's also a good high position for in traffic, giving you more visibility, and the bike is "more stable" under you.
i never advise a GN. (all the GN hags will jump into this convo now...) and have no exp with scorpios...

of course, OP, you could buy a Hyobag gt250...


I'd stay away from any sports bikes, my first bike was a Hyosung GT250S and it's just massively uncomfortable. Because I haven't worked on any of my core strength it's not long before all my weight is on my hands, and they start going numb after 20 minutes of riding. you're doing it wrong.

[hayd3n]

Suzuki GN250 or a Yamaha Scorpio are probably ones to consider. They have a more upright riding position, so you'll be able to gentle start working on your core strength when you're riding. I'd stay away from any sports bikes, my first bike was a Hyosung GT250S and it's just massively uncomfortable. Because I haven't worked on any of my core strength it's not long before all my weight is on my hands, and they start going numb after 20 minutes of riding.

I'm not sure if I've even seen any bikes around the $1500 mark, especially 250cc, but I can't think of any decent bikes under 250cc. You'll probably have more luck with around $2000? This is just from my own limited experience as a new rider. Don't forget about the costs for your riding gear!

your not suposed to have all your weight on the bars use your knees to grip the tank and you may find it easier

[nzspokes]

If you find something you like, as on here for someone to come with you to look. That way you will get an opinion from somebody thats not emotionally attached to the bike.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

Yer I spent all last night looking on here, and reading all the past threads with practically the same question I had. Thanks for all your advice, I have realised that I need more money so what I am going to do is start gathering gear starting with a good Helmet then, gloves, boots, pants then maybe a jacket before I buy my bike. I am thinking it will be close to January when I will be riding but I might just rent a bike for a day here and there just so I'm still getting experience and getting ready for my restricted as I plan on doing it as soon as possible.

If any of you have any old gear that you have forgot about and would be willing to sell I would much appreciate that :)

Also thanks for the offer/Idea to invite one of you guys along, I will definitely do that as I don't know how to tell a good bike from a bad bike except from trying all the electrics and seeing if it moves forwards and gears work lol I will post on here bikes that I'm looking at or ask someone to come with and help explain what to be careful for and how to check important things and such.

Thanks to everyone so far

[Akzle]

i have connections in auckland. <_< :shifty:
also. i come through monthly or so.
i will PM you when in town. or call/txt me.
i know a guy with a few spare bikes.. in pieces, and a few guys with spare gear (how big is your head?) so might be able to scratch something together for you and get you on the road...

PS. an 800$ shitter is still gonna be fun. i haven't paid more than 2k for any bike i've had (purchasing) but then i've been given a few at mate's rates that are probably worth more... so...
helmet, gloves, rock n roll!!

[Akzle]

your not suposed to have all your weight on the bars use your knees to grip the tank and you may find it easier
that's the beginning of a long list of things to ammend the problem....

holding onto a bike by the bars is the opposite of what is good. it will heavy-as-f*ck your cornering for one.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

i have connections in auckland. <_< :shifty:
also. i come through monthly or so.
i will PM you when in town. or call/txt me.
i know a guy with a few spare bikes.. in pieces, and a few guys with spare gear (how big is your head?) so might be able to scratch something together for you and get you on the road...

PS. an 800$ shitter is still gonna be fun. i haven't paid more than 2k for any bike i've had (purchasing) but then i've been given a few at mate's rates that are probably worth more... so...
helmet, gloves, rock n roll!!

That sounds freaking amazing, I cant wait to get on the road, I am good at fixing stuff so even if I was given a bike and a whole load of pieces that are good or two shitty bikes id be able to tinker around and try make a working whole one hahaha

I reckon my head is in the medium/large, and yer I wouldn't even mind a 800dola shitter as long as I am learning to ride haha getting on the road is what i want. My number is 0278130588, flick me a text when you are in Auckland it would be great to meet up :)

[Akzle]

i do emphasize MIGHT be able to.

asked about helmet because i have an old hjc.. i think it's medium (ex missus'). i have a fat head so no use to me.. was gonna give it to the kids but... meh. also a medium-large shark sitting somewhere with a visor scratched to hell...

i will discuss it with teh bruhahas and be in touch.

[Akzle]

dude there are a STACK of bikes on TM atm <1k$, 150-500cc

[Akzle]

here's my shortlist for ya:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=494141526
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=492091466
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=492680049
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491156017
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=494047126&permanent=0
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=492364541
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491578902
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491831512
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=485733107
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=491189488

[Alexofbbulgaria]

Yer I have been looking at them, Ive put them on watchlist to see how much they are going for. I will be getting a 1k loan off a friend when I find a good enough bike. Thanks, I will be keeping a close eye on trademe over the next month to try get a good one.

What do you guys think of turners auction house? Could I get anything good from there

[Alexofbbulgaria]

here's my shortlist for ya:

Thanks, I had a few of those on watchlist and I also hadn't seen some of those. I plan on trying to see some of the closer bikes to the Auckland district. I will let you know how it goes :)

[Hopeful Bastard]

Bare in mind that some of those sound like they need some decent mechanical work doing to them...

[Akzle]

What do you guys think of turners auction house? Could I get anything good from there

i've known several people who've bought cars through turners (no problems), no bikes tho. i imagine they'd be as good as any auction house, but TBH, most people would probably just put their bikes for sale on trademe, sella, or here, what with this being the computer age and all.

i'll have a look at that sr in helensville next time i come through if you're at all interesting in it...
also reckon that cb is worth a nudge if you get the time/inclination...


Bare in mind that some of those sound like they need some decent mechanical work doing to them...
yes. but he's handy. a new head gasket and rings is hardly the end-all of repairs.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

i've known several people who've bought cars through turners (no problems), no bikes tho. i imagine they'd be as good as any auction house, but TBH, most people would probably just put their bikes for sale on trademe, sella, or here, what with this being the computer age and all.


I heard that they were usually police auctions and most of the stuff goes dirt cheap and that you can get a real steal if your lucky



i'll have a look at that sr in helensville next time i come through if you're at all interesting in it...
also reckon that cb is worth a nudge if you get the time/inclination...



Man that sr looks mint, there is also only one person interested in it so far. That bike looks perfect for what I am wanting, I just hope that it doesnt end up in a bidding war and go over 1.5k

Yer cb could be ok, I would definitely wanna go with someone that knows all about bikes to give it a good look over and see if the problem is what he says and if there is other stuff wrong. Plus it is at a hell of a low price at the moment.

[ducatilover]

yes. but he's handy. a new head gasket and rings is hardly the end-all of repairs.

Find me a set of rings and a headgasket for a ZXR250A/B at a reasonable price? This is assuming it doesn't need O/S parts.

Buy simple with small money.
GN250
SR250
Scorpio
GT250 Hyoshit
Early VT250/VTR250/VTZ250
etc. For that money I'd be looking at very common bikes.
GN's are easy to repair and cheap to buy/fix.
VT250's are reasonably good, if a tidy-ish VT250 Spada could be found for that coin I would buy one, I had one that did 150,000km on the original motor.

Effectively, if you try buy the fastest thing you can in a 250cc bike, for little $$$ you will get screwed over.

[Akzle]

GT250 Hyoshit
:killingme . .

[Laava]

If you are bidding on bikes on Turners be VERY wary. They start off asking for massive first bid and drop down till they get it. Common models are often bid on by breakers who can afford to pay good money, more than it is worth to a private buyer. If you know your market and models well, you should be OK.

[GSF]

Suzuki GN250 or a Yamaha Scorpio are probably ones to consider. They have a more upright riding position, so you'll be able to gentle start working on your core strength when you're riding. I'd stay away from any sports bikes, my first bike was a Hyosung GT250S and it's just massively uncomfortable. Because I haven't worked on any of my core strength it's not long before all my weight is on my hands, and they start going numb after 20 minutes of riding.

No offense dude, but you're doing it wrong.
Hands going numb after 20mins of riding is not normal at all. Compared to a 600 supersport or a 1000 superbike the riding position on your Hyosung is not that aggressive.

I had the same problem when I started riding my Bandit. Try doing the following:

-When cornering, grip the tank with your knees & thighs and put weight on the footpegs
-Relax your upper body, you are probably unconsciously tightening your shoulders and arms

You don't need to put weight on the bars or have a death grip on your grips. Doing that will, as somebody else posted, make your steering heavy and difficult and also if you start to get a wobble going on in the front it will be much harder to get back under control. When you're out riding open road try to scoot your butt back on the seat, drape yourself over the tank and relax your arms. The Hyosungs are definitely big enough to get a chin on the tank even if you're a big fucker.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

If you find something you like, as on here for someone to come with you to look. That way you will get an opinion from somebody thats not emotionally attached to the bike.

Any one here keen to give there opinion on a bike I have agreed to buy for 500 assuming all that is wrong with it is new front tyre and indicator casing needed. It is a GN250, If i cant find someone to come can someone please explain to me in a little detial what major faults I should be looking for?

[Alexofbbulgaria]

i have connections in auckland. <_< :shifty:
also. i come through monthly or so.
i will PM you when in town. or call/txt me.
i know a guy with a few spare bikes.. in pieces, and a few guys with spare gear (how big is your head?) so might be able to scratch something together for you and get you on the road...

PS. an 800$ shitter is still gonna be fun. i haven't paid more than 2k for any bike i've had (purchasing) but then i've been given a few at mate's rates that are probably worth more... so...
helmet, gloves, rock n roll!!

I am buying this what do you think?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=497313100

[Tigadee]

Make sure the seller settles the rego before you buy it. Otherwise you'll have to pay for his backdated rego (form the time the rego expired to present).

It'd be best if he puts WOF at least on it. Rego you can pay for yourself (for new, not the backdated rego mentioned just now), but if you buy and then take it for WOF, you may end up paying lots more for some surprises.

Good buying tips here:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/26572-Buying-a-used-motorcycle

[FJRider]

Make sure the seller settles the rego before you buy it. Otherwise you'll have to pay for his backdated rego (form the time the rego expired to present).



It is the seller that is held responsible for the backdated rego. The new owner only pays from the time the change of ownership takes place ...

[Tigadee]

Good to know, thanks for the correction...;)

[FJRider]

Make sure the seller settles the rego before you buy it. Otherwise you'll have to pay for his backdated rego (form the time the rego expired to present).

It'd be best if he puts WOF at least on it. Rego you can pay for yourself (for new, not the backdated rego mentioned just now), but if you buy and then take it for WOF, you may end up paying lots more for some surprises.



I looked at that link ... the bike is de-registered. Requires a Vin (about $500) and WoF (who knows what $$$ involved there) ... all he says is it needs a "little work" ...

My advice to the OP ... is find one already in the system. You pay more maybe ... but it isn't worth the hassle chasing legality on some bikes. If it was easy ... HE would have done it.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

It is the seller that is held responsible for the backdated rego. The new owner only pays from the time the change of ownership takes place ...

jeese had me worried then haha

what about those front bars do u see that lil spot on the right had side? (im not sure if they are called bars but is that thing a problem

EDIT: I dont mean bars i mean forks just found the term

[Alexofbbulgaria]

I looked at that link ... the bike is de-registered. Requires a Vin (about $500) and WoF (who knows what $$$ involved there) ... all he says is it needs a "little work" ...

My advice to the OP ... is find one already in the system. You pay more maybe ... but it isn't worth the hassle chasing legality on some bikes. If it was easy ... HE would have done it.

yer its deregistered but i found it in the system I carjamed it and found all the info on it its here

http://www.carjam.co.nz/car/?plate=LWMACNLC752011777

$150 - $250 for inspection plus $273.80 for re-registering

During the inspection u get wof.

to make sure nothing major is wrong with it can you give me some things i must check??

[FJRider]

jeese had me worried then haha

what about those front bars do u see that lil spot on the right had side? (im not sure if they are called bars but is that thing a problem

IT IS DEREGISTERED. It requires a VIN (about $500) before you can get a WoF. it "Needs work" (he didn't say what was required) to get a WoF. Unless you have the time and inclination (and $$$) to get it legal .. leave well alone.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

IT IS DEREGISTERED. It requires a VIN (about $500) before you can get a WoF. it "Needs work" (he didn't say what was required) to get a WoF. Unless you have the time and inclination (and $$$) to get it legal .. leave well alone.

This is what he said needed to be done

Hi what does the bike need ta get back on the road with no problems? cheers letisia1 (3 ) 6:19 pm, Mon 30 Jul

a re vin then right indicator cover needs replacing. also it will need a new front tyre.

I am willing to spend the 500 plus upto 500 more fixing it. Do you really feel that an 07 bike with lapsed rego nearly 2 years ago has too much work needed?

[FJRider]

$150 - $250 for inspection plus $273.80 for re-registering

As I said ... $about $500


During the inspection u get wof.

to make sure nothing major is wrong with it can you give me some things i must check??

You have 28 days from when a WoF test is done to get it re-tested (if it needs to be).

Too many things they check ... get the vin passed first. THAT is NO certainty.

For example .... Vin check (or supposed to) brake disc thickness (under minimum and its a fail) Wof just check brakes WORK.

[GSF]

jeese had me worried then haha

what about those front bars do u see that lil spot on the right had side? (im not sure if they are called bars but is that thing a problem

EDIT: I dont mean bars i mean forks just found the term

I assume you're meaning this (indicated my my lolmspaint arrow)

267355

That is seriously nasty corrosion of the hard chroming on the fork tube. As a result, the previously nice and smooth tube surface is now rusty and rough.

I don't know how soft the front end on that Ginny is, but if that corroded part of the tube manages to travel through the fork seals when the suspension is compressed, it will chew the fork seals up and the forks will leak oil. Also note that the corrosion is only going to get worse with time and spread.

I believe bad enough fork oil leaks can make your bike unwarrantable. Only thing to do with seriously rooted fork tubes is replace them with non-corroded items.

If the bike needs to be re-VIN'ed to get it back on the road, watch out, 'cause I think VINs are muuuuuch more in depth than your average warrant, which is usually performed by a trained ape.

[Alexofbbulgaria]

I assume you're meaning this (indicated my my lolmspaint arrow)

267355

That is seriously nasty corrosion of the hard chroming on the fork tube. As a result, the previously nice and smooth tube surface is now rusty and rough.

I don't know how soft the front end on that Ginny is, but if that corroded part of the tube manages to travel through the fork seals when the suspension is compressed, it will chew the fork seals up and the forks will leak oil. Also note that the corrosion is only going to get worse with time and spread.

I believe bad enough fork oil leaks can make your bike unwarrantable. Only thing to do with seriously rooted fork tubes is replace them with non-corroded items.

If the bike needs to be re-VIN'ed to get it back on the road, watch out, 'cause I think VINs are muuuuuch more in depth than your average warrant, which is usually performed by a trained ape.

How much are new forks? I hear parts for these come cheap.

[FJRider]

This is what he said needed to be done

Hi what does the bike need ta get back on the road with no problems? cheers letisia1 (3 ) 6:19 pm, Mon 30 Jul

a re vin then right indicator cover needs replacing. also it will need a new front tyre.

I am willing to spend the 500 plus upto 500 more fixing it. Do you really feel that an 07 bike with lapsed rego nearly 2 years ago has too much work needed?

Purchase price ... $600
(up to) $520 Vin & rego
$200 for a front tyre (maybe a little more for it to be fitted)
Indicator lens $20 tops

and thats just what he knows about.

Surface rust is not a big issue. Structural rust IS. Don't keep the bike long enough for it to BE an issue for you.

By the time the Vin is done ... you will have paid at least $1300-$1400 ... and prior to the Vin ... you cant be sure it WILL pass ... unless you get it pre-checked. (at a bike shop maybe)

[Alexofbbulgaria]

Purchase price ... $600
(up to) $520 Vin & rego
$200 for a front tyre (maybe a little more for it to be fitted)
Indicator lens $20 tops

and thats just what he knows about.

Surface rust is not a big issue. Structural rust IS. Don't keep the bike long enough for it to BE an issue for you.

By the time the Vin is done ... you will have paid at least $1300-$1400 ... and prior to the Vin ... you cant be sure it WILL pass ... unless you get it pre-checked. (at a bike shop maybe)

thanks for the information, I am gonna get a mechanic friend to come with us

[ducatilover]

$200 for a front tyre?????? The fuck are you putting on it FJrider, a Pilot Power?
I've done a set of sport demons on a GN before for $300 fitted and balanced.
Original spec Cheng-Shin tyres are disturbingly cheap, and IRC may even do one

[Alexofbbulgaria]

$200 for a front tyre?????? The fuck are you putting on it FJrider, a Pilot Power?
I've done a set of sport demons on a GN before for $300 fitted and balanced.
Original spec Cheng-Shin tyres are disturbingly cheap, and IRC may even do one

Well I ended up getting it, a really fat friend of mine put all his weight on the front bars as i sat on it and the rust wasnt near it. There was also no damage to the rubber at the front, I will sand it back i think?

Is that the best option to removeing it? I had a quick ride on it, it had sat for too long so we took spark plug out gave it a good blowing and then dipped it in petrol and bang she was alive!!!

[Alexofbbulgaria]

At 500 bucks for the bike I am happy paying the re-registering fees and even up to 500 before to get it up to standard

[ducatilover]

I'd say you've got yourself a neat deal mate, I payed $660 for mine and it's an '88, I'm completely rebuilding the engine and have restored/modified the rest. It'll also owe me well under $1500 though
Check out my thread http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/148922-Geoff-the-giant-small-bike
I know these things inside and out, so I'm more than happy to send you info
I'll also find the link to the owners manual I uploaded ;)

[ducatilover]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/26633588/GN250%20Manual.pdf
Owners manual

[Alexofbbulgaria]

I'd say you've got yourself a neat deal mate, I payed $660 for mine and it's an '88, I'm completely rebuilding the engine and have restored/modified the rest. It'll also owe me well under $1500 though
Check out my thread http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/148922-Geoff-the-giant-small-bike
I know these things inside and out, so I'm more than happy to send you info
I'll also find the link to the owners manual I uploaded ;)

thanks so much, yer i am bound to have a few questions when im stuck into it. I thought it was pretty neat, an 07 for 500 and I could ride it all gears worked and felt fine. Now just to start saving more money to fix it up

[ducatilover]

They're super simple machines, the perfect bike to learn the basics of everything on

[neels]

I am willing to spend the 500 plus upto 500 more fixing it. Do you really feel that an 07 bike with lapsed rego nearly 2 years ago has too much work needed?
Given that you'd probably be paying at least $2k for a legal GN, I'd say you've done pretty well. The actual fee for the inspection is not too expensive, most of the rest is the normal rego fee that on most bikes you'll end up paying pretty soon after buying anyway, not many people sell a bike with more than a month or two rego on it.

The reregistration inspection is mostly about making sure there is no structural damage or modifications, that it has all of the equipment it should have and nothing it shouldn't, and that it's roadworthy. If it's just been parked for a few years and everything works, you shouldn't have any issues.

[GrayWolf]

Hey guys so I've been thinking about getting my bike licence for a while so I did Basic handling and theory all this week, I am keen to start riding but I don't yet have a bike!!!

I do not know anything about motorbikes to tell you the truth, I have been told that If I wanted a cheap bike my BHS instructor told me not to go below $1,000 as its more trouble than its worth. What I would like to know Is what is a good reliable bike that is not too expensive to get parts for in NZ??

Hi, to be honest you are going to get advice from all directions, ages and 'thought processes' (read intelligence levels)
There are several ways of looking at your requirement, so I'll coma at it from my own direction.
Student= no cash... the more cylinders you have, the more expensive repairs/maintenance.
More cylinders = likely higher fuel consumption.
some older 250 twins are considerably slower CB250N, XS50, Z250, GSX250 (1970-1980's) with acceptable fuel economy and 'ok' performance
Now the venerable GN250, tough as (when dropped) easy to repair/maintain, cheap to run, reliable, BUT bloody slow compared to other 250's. Overall there is a reason the GN is always recommended by many as an ideal learner bike. It's usually the numbnut's who want only 'da schizz' who scoff at them.

I'm afraid to jump for the first thing that I see that is cheap until I have first talked to some experts :) So if any experts out there could help me out here please tell me about your first bike/bikes and what you recommend and would advise to stay clear of :)

Stay clear of 'old' high power/performance 250's... regardless of how hard out they are, they are high stressed (15k plus redline on the motor) have invariably been poorly maintained, thrashed to buggery day in day out and WILL sooner than later, become a grenade.

I'm sorry if someone has already asked this I haven't had a thorough look through yet. Thanks in advance everyone, I cant wait to get my first bike and get on the road.

LAM's is coming into force soon. if you can wait till then, now is the ideal time to go shopping for a good 'old' 400. I have seen the odd GSX400, CB400 hawk, even the odd 'new version' XS400 (the old one is ok, but rattly, the new one was almost half an XJ750 motor). These are good old solid reliable bikes that are easy to learn to service yourself. You state in a later post you'll be mostly 50k riding and weekend trips to the girlfriends,,,, sprotbikes are not ideal commuters for riding position. The Ginnny would see you right for your student 'career', but at the cost of low performance. Seriously look at some of the older 400 twin's they are going to be popular soon enough.