New to riding, new bike! (Lozza2442)

[Lozza2442]

Hey all!

First of all, I'm a chick rider, early 20's and my fiancee just got me into riding. Soooo. I've just gotten my learners and secured a bike off trade me. A suzuki GN125, something small with the aim of not killing myself. Haven't been on the road yet, haven't done any corners yet, so WISH ME LUCK!

I'm nervous, but the interwebz seem to have all sorts of tips.
What are YOUR main tips? What do you wish you'd know when you first started riding?

Looking forward to talking to y'all more.

Loz

[f2dz]

Welcome!

Only been riding a month or so myself but there's a few things I was told when I started riding that were good to know.

Mostly about riding in the wet, about how slippery white lines are. When it's dry I still practice staying off of the road markings.

Also be aware of the weight and physics of your bike. For example, when going downhill use your front brake mainly and try to stay off your back brake if possible. All the weight is transferring to the front anyway so if you pressure the back it'll lock up a lot easier than normal, and probably give you a good fright too.

I'm just a newbie though so I'm sure others can offer you more advice. :)

[BigAl]

Hi there,

It would certainly pay to book into a riding school/clinic.

Have a search through this site or browse yellow pages.

Have fun.

[Lozza2442]

Hi there,

It would certainly pay to book into a riding school/clinic.

Have a search through this site or browse yellow pages.

Have fun.

Heya, I've done training with RiderTraining but there's only so much they can teach you in that time, I was meaning for tips on things like the white lines are slippery, how to break in gravel etc. Just general tips and words of wisdom :)

[Akzle]

Hey all!

First of all, I'm a chick rider, early 20's and my fiancee just got me into riding. Soooo. I've just gotten my learners and secured a bike off trade me. A suzuki GN125, something small with the aim of not killing myself. Haven't been on the road yet, haven't done any corners yet, so WISH ME LUCK!

I'm nervous, but the interwebz seem to have all sorts of tips.
What are YOUR main tips? What do you wish you'd know when you first started riding?

Looking forward to talking to y'all more.

Loz

forget anything you think you know.

get on your bike, head for somewhere with "gorge" in the name.
don't try pushing it, if cars queue behind you then pull over and stop.
pay attention to what your bike does underneath you. there is no point in fighting it. by the time you're ridden there and back you'll be competent.

then read up, go hard and get some l33t skillz.

[Akzle]

Also be aware of the weight and physics of your bike. For example, when going downhill use your front brake mainly and try to stay off your back brake if possible. All the weight is transferring to the front anyway so if you pressure the back it'll lock up a lot easier than normal, and probably give you a good fright too.

this is good-bad advice.
the first part being good, the rest bad.

when you're on your front brake the weight of your bike (~80%) is on your front tyre, which is usually smaller. this is not a good thing, nor how bikes are designed.
this also LIFTS the weight OFF you're rear (big grippy contact patch) which makes it MORE likely to lock up, slip, or wash out.

the ideal weight balance of your bike is about 60% on the big tyre (rear) and 40% on the front. that gives your front tyre enough stick for steering, not so much that it'll make it heavy and handle like a pig, nor push out the front.
as a n00b, you WILL NOT recover a front end going out. having one while you're heading downhill is the opposite of what is good, particularly if there's a corner coming up.

my advice for n00bs going downhill would be engine brake as much as possible, light trail braking and lightly on the front. if you can feel the bike diving, you're too hard on the front.

[Lozza2442]

forget anything you think you know.

get on your bike, head for somewhere with "gorge" in the name.
don't try pushing it, if cars queue behind you then pull over and stop.
pay attention to what your bike does underneath you. there is no point in fighting it. by the time you're ridden there and back you'll be competent.

then read up, go hard and get some l33t skillz.

I like this idea. Time for a long ride I think.

Thanks for your comment re braking, I got told that it should be 60% rear breaking 40% front from my instructor, ie use the front brake a half second after the rear brake to keep the rear end on the ground. For some reason when I was getting trained I was too heavy on my rear brake (got freaked out about slamming on the front brake suddenly and flipping the bike I guess). Need to practice that, need to put in the hours in a parking lot I reckon, and defo go for a long ride soon!

[george formby]

I like this idea. Time for a long ride I think.

Thanks for your comment re braking, I got told that it should be 60% rear breaking 40% front from my instructor, ie use the front brake a half second after the rear brake to keep the rear end on the ground. For some reason when I was getting trained I was too heavy on my rear brake (got freaked out about slamming on the front brake suddenly and flipping the bike I guess). Need to practice that, need to put in the hours in a parking lot I reckon, and defo go for a long ride soon!

The more time & money you invest in practice & training the more you will get from riding.

With braking always be smooth, don't grab the front, apply pressure gently so the tire has time to push into the road & grip properly. Same with the rear, smooth, it locks up easily when the weight is transferred forward as the front brake bites so practice to get a feel for it. Practice braking upright, in a straight line. On the road brake before a corner, the dynamics change if you have to brake leaned over. You need both brakes for stable, efficient braking. Every time you ride set a few minutes aside to practice, good braking is the most fundamental thing to riding safely, avoiding trouble is a close second so keep your head up, look ahead & anticipate the consequences of what is happening around you.
It does not matter what kind of surface your riding on, wet roads, dry roads, gravel etc they just have varying levels of grip. You have to be smooth & learn how your bike behaves. The less grip, the slower you go because it takes you longer to stop.
Practice practice practice. Training, learning thinking. It never stops!!

Have fun!

[GrayWolf]

by the time you're ridden there and back you'll be competent.

then read up, go hard and get some l33t skillz.

This is exactly the kind of 'advice' any noob needs to avoid. One ride up and down a gorge will NOT leave you competent.
every season will present different (weather/road/other driver behaviour) riding conditions. So expect to be 0n a steep learning curve for a whole year.
Go to a recognised training school and learn to 'road ride' beyond the BHS course.
I'd agree partly with not being concerned about going slow, however there is always ONE numbnuts who will start to pressure you (tailgate etc).
Practice your braking skills, these are often the most under practiced techniques. Learn correct braking, front and/then rear. PANIC grabbing a handful of front lever is going to contribute 50-90% of loss of control in an 'emergency requirement'. Unlike a car, a front wheel lock up is 'agreed' very difficult to recover from when a new rider. It's not THAT easy at any time. You'll need to learn about 'suspension loading' under braking and how it affects the bike's handling.
I'll say it again BRAKING is the most critical skill you'll need to learn. Cornering and road position you can learn at a slower 'self comfortable' pace. You'll rapidly find the 'keep left' of lane touted in the road code doesnt always give the safety they quote. Keep too far left? Joe numbnuts turbonutter bastard, will crowd you into the kerb. Go too far to the right? You'll get a fright from him coming round your left hand bend over the white line.
Dont get egged on by others to get a bike thats the schizz, as it seems to be called these days (yes I really AM an 'old bastard'). The little ginny 125 will be resiliant (if you drop it) and very forgiving of rider error. GN/Scorpio/SR250 are all known to be good learner bikes, its usually 'male ego' young dumb and full of shit that dictates buying a CBRFZGTX 250.
Be aware of the human (yourself) factor when learning... Competency is learning a skill and practicing till it is 'second nature'. While a newbie, a good 80% or more of your mental process will be focused on the actual task of riding the bike, your 'peripheral' concentration (awareness, noticing oil, wet drain lids, pot holes granny/WRX drivers etc etc) is going to be greatly reduced. Riding a bike actually requires more cerebral input and 'motor control' than car driving. Although many riders seem to have a cerebral lobotomy when they climb onto one.

Enjoy, relax, take YOUR time, not in anyone else's expectation to perform a skill. What you learn now if done correctly will be the skills that keep you safe through your riding lifetime.

[george formby]

Enjoy, relax, take YOUR time, not in anyone else's expectation to perform a skill. What you learn now if done correctly will be the skills that keep you safe through your riding lifetime.

Were you pecking your key board at the same time as me Graywolf?

[oneofsix]

Welcome to the wonderful and exciting world of motorcycling.

George and GreyWolfe have given you some good advice.
Practice and build on the basics you required for your BHS until they come easy.
Do a more advanced course, try to score one of subsidised ones.
As said above, at the moment so much of your concentration will be on the basics that it is easy for you to miss the tell tale signs for the driver that doesn't see you or doesn't think you count, not to mention road condition etc. The more you practice the BHS the more concentration you free up spotting the danger signals.

[GrayWolf]

Were you pecking your key board at the same time as me Graywolf?

yup, I'd guess so.... sux to be old and a 'non typist'...:nya:

[george formby]

yup, I'd guess so.... sux to be old and a 'non typist'...:nya:

Oh good. Thought there was an echo in here.

[Lozza2442]

The more time & money you invest in practice & training the more you will get from riding.

Has anyone done this course? http://www.ridertraining.co.nz/119527.html

If I had more money I'd do all the courses available. Unfortunately due to being in my early 20's and not paid much, cashflow is a serious consideration when doing everything.
Riding is already working out more expensive than anticipated. Didn't realise how much gear costs... Ah well, worth it!

[george formby]

Has anyone done this course? http://www.ridertraining.co.nz/119527.html

If I had more money I'd do all the courses available. Unfortunately due to being in my early 20's and not paid much, cashflow is a serious consideration when doing everything.
Riding is already working out more expensive than anticipated. Didn't realise how much gear costs... Ah well, worth it!

LOL, moneys to tight to mention, da da dee.

Practice what you have learned now, go ride your bike, get betterer. If you need to think about something (braking, pulling away, gears etc) then you need to keep practising. Basic bike control will become second nature. You need to have time in the saddle to make the most of advanced riding training, whether it be at a track, playing in the mud or riding on the street.
The more you ride & practice your basics the more time & resources your brain has to develop your road craft.

Spend your money on petrol & bike maintenance & use the resources here on KB to meet others who can train you or you can train with.

[Lozza2442]

LOL, moneys to tight to mention, da da dee.

Practice what you have learned now, go ride your bike, get betterer. If you need to think about something (braking, pulling away, gears etc) then you need to keep practising. Basic bike control will become second nature. You need to have time in the saddle to make the most of advanced riding training, whether it be at a track, playing in the mud or riding on the street.
The more you ride & practice your basics the more time & resources your brain has to develop your road craft.

Spend your money on petrol & bike maintenance & use the resources here on KB to meet others who can train you or you can train with.

I think I need to find myself a big parking lot next week and just practice and practice and practice. If anything, just for my confidence which atm is not hugely high.
I wish I could do it this weekend but I have a freaking family reunion. Damn those family obligations. :weep:

I'm gonna put some decent hours in over the next month simply PRACTICING those basic skills. Then after that I'll just do a few minutes every time I ride :)

I must say, I'm very excited about a tank of petrol only costing like $20! Makes it cheaper to just practice and practice. Especially with the KM/L you get with a GN125!

I have the advantage of my fiancee having ridden MX and raced Quads since he was an ankle biter (farm boy) so he knows how to do all the servicing etc and will teach me. I was a bit shocked when I learnt that it cost hundreds for a basic service at places like Red Baron and they didn't seem to do that much in that basic service. Better to do it yourself right? :2thumbsup

[george formby]

I think I need to find myself a big parking lot next week and just practice and practice and practice. If anything, just for my confidence which atm is not hugely high.
I wish I could do it this weekend but I have a freaking family reunion. Damn those family obligations. :weep:

I'm gonna put some decent hours in over the next month simply PRACTICING those basic skills. Then after that I'll just do a few minutes every time I ride :)

I must say, I'm very excited about a tank of petrol only costing like $20! Makes it cheaper to just practice and practice. Especially with the KM/L you get with a GN125!

I have the advantage of my fiancee having ridden MX and raced Quads since he was an ankle biter (farm boy) so he knows how to do all the servicing etc and will teach me. I was a bit shocked when I learnt that it cost hundreds for a basic service at places like Red Baron and they didn't seem to do that much in that basic service. Better to do it yourself right? :2thumbsup

Yup, DIY for a lot of things. Oil changes, chain maintenance, air filter etc are generally really easy & you get to learn about what does what on your bike. Use youtube & maybe download a Manuel for your bike. It's quite satisfying getting grubby & saving money.

I'm sure somebody will pop up on this thread with an offer of practice somewhere.

I've been riding for oh, well, um, decades and since my girlfriend has started riding I'm stunned at how much the practice we do together is improving my riding, not just hers.

Have a look at the gymkhana thread somewhere on here for some inspiration for car park frolics. It's similar practice to what we do & really good for building confidence & control skills. Great fun too.

[GrayWolf]

I think I need to find myself a big parking lot next week and just practice and practice and practice. If anything, just for my confidence which atm is not hugely high.
I wish I could do it this weekend but I have a freaking family reunion. Damn those family obligations. :weep:

I'm gonna put some decent hours in over the next month simply PRACTICING those basic skills. Then after that I'll just do a few minutes every time I ride :)

I must say, I'm very excited about a tank of petrol only costing like $20! Makes it cheaper to just practice and practice. Especially with the KM/L you get with a GN125!

I have the advantage of my fiancee having ridden MX and raced Quads since he was an ankle biter (farm boy) so he knows how to do all the servicing etc and will teach me. I was a bit shocked when I learnt that it cost hundreds for a basic service at places like Red Baron and they didn't seem to do that much in that basic service. Better to do it yourself right? :2thumbsup


Hi again Lozza,
great to read you are giving it all some 'deep thought'.. only this time the answer isnt, 42 (for the 'hikers among us).
Its so easy, and I would say we ALL did/do it... get on ya bike and ride. Just reading two of your posts.. reply to azkle.. "time to do a long ride" and above, "confidence not hugely high".
a little contradictive, but We'd all understand it. IF you decide on a long ride in the near future... suggestion is/are:
make sure you go with a 'shotgun rider' (maybe even a Mentor from KB who is known to be a person who can help you stay safe and give good advice, not just a legend in their own coffee break).
arrange several stops for relaxation and coffee etc. There is a fallacy that we only use 10% of our brains... 20% of our oxygen intake is consumed by those few pounds of 'grey stuff' alone. So in fact intense concentration is very tiring in its own right. Once you reach that point your ability to observe/react as well as peripheral information gathering reduces noticeably.
remember, that if your tired halfway? you still have to get home so dont go too enthusiastic on 'straight line' distance.
Going with 'several' other learners can have benefits and detraction's at this point for a long ride I'd stick to just you and the fiancee with as suggested a recognised 'learned' shotgun rider.

[george formby]

Good point GWya. I did a 100km ish trip with my GF awhile back, admittedly including some gnarly gravel roads, & she was fried by half way. A cuppa & a biscuit to the rescue later we were off again. She was equally fried when we got home.

Same with practice, about an hour is her limit before the brain starts to get muddled & things get frustrating. It used to be 20 minutes. Time on the bike is the only way to increase your concentration & energy span but stay within your limits. If somebody says "oh, you will be fine" take it with a pinch of salt & make up your own mind. You want to get home relaxed & happy about your ride not knackered & fearful.

[Lozza2442]

Hi again Lozza,
great to read you are giving it all some 'deep thought'.. only this time the answer isnt, 42 (for the 'hikers among us).

Haha love it. Nothing like a hitchhiker reference


Its so easy, and I would say we ALL did/do it... get on ya bike and ride. Just reading two of your posts.. reply to azkle.. "time to do a long ride" and above, "confidence not hugely high".
a little contradictive,
Oh yeah I totally did contradict myself. Show's my noob confusion? haha


A question to all those wise ones out there atm, I have no gear atm except for a helmet and a pair of MX gloves. What should be my priority list for buying gear?
Sadly I can't afford to just go out and buy full kit in one day.

[george formby]

A question to all those wise ones out there atm, I have no gear atm except for a helmet and a pair of MX gloves. What should be my priority list for buying gear?
Sadly I can't afford to just go out and buy full kit in one day.

Ooooh, can of worms there. My take on gear is head to toe, ATGATT, all the gear all the time.

Bottom line when your skint is head, hands, feet, jacket, troosers. Scour trade me or look at the Cycletreads sale that's on at the mo for cheap gear to get you started. You need to be warm & comfortable, the more protection the better but obviously that relates to what you pay. MX gloves offer no abrasion resistance so at the least you need leather, same with boots. Textile gear is comfortable & most has a bit of body armour which will help if you have a wee low speed roll about when your practising. Full leathers offer the best impact/abrasion protection but do not like getting wet.
Have a good look around & buy the best you can afford whether it's second hand, on sale or from a reasonable supplier like 1 tonne. But make it a priority, comfort & protection is paramount.

[Spazman727]

Heya, I've done training with RiderTraining but there's only so much they can teach you in that time, I was meaning for tips on things like the white lines are slippery, how to break in gravel etc. Just general tips and words of wisdom :)

If you want to break of gravel just drop your bike and I'm sure something will break. :killingme

Seriously though, gravel riding is really fun, I reccomend you go really slow to start with and use mostly back brake, it's easier to recover from a sliding rear than front. Even then be quite gently and use a slightly higher gear than you normally would when on tarmac (as long as its low enough to not stall) as this will stop you wheel spinning when you apply throttle.

[GrayWolf]

A question to all those wise ones out there atm, I have no gear atm except for a helmet and a pair of MX gloves. What should be my priority list for buying gear?
Sadly I can't afford to just go out and buy full kit in one day.

Now here is where it can get REALLY heated/technical.

1) I hope the helmet is a 'decent' one.... not a S/hand with an unknown past.
All helmets HAVE to meet a minimum thats, MINIMUM standard for safety.... go to the 'SHARP' helmet testing website for an eye opener. Once you've 'togged out' with a basic set, first priority should be a GOOD helmet. You'll learn about the 'nice stuff' like variable thickness cheekpads, blue tooth/intercomm ready, removable/washable liners (which adds to the cost). Some more expensive helmets have things like variable deformity impact liners to better protect certain areas of the skull. I will also admit that there are some cheaper 'giant killer' helmets out there... do your research and select your personal preference.
Make sure the 'lid' fits you correctly, not just the size round the head. does the 'brim' inside sit too low on your forhead? or like I found with Arhio.. they arent 'deep' enough and my jawline was below the helmet rim. A good salesman will make sure it is correct for you.

OK numero 2....
da jaket!!
This I would make your next purchase, or acquire one. A cheap (sub 200 bucks) jacket is better than none.
Leather..... is STILL the best material for abrasion resistance. and NZ roads are like bastard files on steroids in some places. Downside of leather is when it gets wet, and it does need 'fettling' to keep it nourished and supple. Again there is the 'debate' of synthetic Vs natural conditioners around this... I prefer natural, leather IS natural and does need 'feeding'.
Cordura..... (heavy woven nylon, cloth jackets)
Most so called cordura jackets are not... cordura is registered by dupont. However 'ballistic nylon etc etc' is usually the same stuff or similar. Kevlar ? same kind of thing just a little different. advantages? 'Cordura' dries out in front of a heater overnight..... (thick leather will take days to dry unless you force dry it, and then make the leather itself 'dry'). Available in many styles, colours to suit your taste.
NEEDS for a good jacket...... the more densely woven the better. Many cheap jackets will be 600 denier, good jackets 8/900+ often the tabs blurb will show CE approved... this is for the ARMOUR, dont get fooled into thinking the jacket is at a higher standard. Even cheap jackets have CE approved armour.
Some jackets will have 600 denier 'shell' but either double layered or, kevlar or 8/900 denier over the known 'high impact/friction' areas. Some better to expensive jackets will have leather panels in these areas.
Now here is the 'girly cringe' bit, sorry.... 'girly jackets look 'nice' BUT..... do your research, get your information BEFORE you buy.
fact 1, 'girly jackets' are usually 'styled' so have extra panels, cuts, seams to suit the female form.... more seams? = more weak spots. example a good design jacket the whole back panel is ONE piece of material that goes from collar to at least low back, meets the front ON TOP of the shoulders, and meets the front on the SIDE of the jacket. a seam across the back (shoulders) can be a weak spot and NEVER I'll repeat this NEVER buy a jacket with a seam running down the 'centre' (spine).
Panels and seams can be 'mitigated' by quality stitching (thread used and double/triple stitched)
fact 2.. 'girly' jackets are often 'short' cutesy looking things... there's a reason us blokes buy jackets that cover our arses.... warmth! for a kick off. if you look at a traditional jacket the bottom is usually level with the tail bone... fashion ones are often level or almost with the top of your arse... now lean forwards to the bars... ooops the back rides up a bit!! 'Er indoors is a 'lizzard'.... has more thermals than Rotovegas, she only buys guys medium touring jackets for anything less than mid summer riding.. (touring jackets are the long ones that completely cover your rear assets).
same with sleeves if you can find a jacket an few CM's too long in the arms... when you reach to the bars it will still be covering your wrists.

Pants...... jeans at the very least and even get a set of cheap yellow PVC over pants for the rain, we all have them, you KNOW you want a pair too :killingme
really same thing as the jackets leather/cordura pros and cons......

Cordura can be bloody sweaty for guys around the 'vege's'.... So even a pair of kevlar lined jeans might be a good score.
Tardme really IS your friend here...just had a look there i so much female hardly used gear for sale cheap.

your gloves?? you'll want to replace them soon enough, especially in winter with decent lined/waterproof/insulated ones

How much gear do you need?? I ride 365, 5 pairs cordura pants, l pr leather, 3 kevlar lined jeans, 9 jackets, 6 prs winter, 4prs summer gloves......... 4 helmets.

Boots? if nothing else good steel toed work style boots, Doc martins etc... something with 'substance' and support.

[Drew]

this is good-bad advice.
the first part being good, the rest bad.

when you're on your front brake the weight of your bike (~80%) is on your front tyre, which is usually smaller. this is not a good thing, nor how bikes are designed.
this also LIFTS the weight OFF you're rear (big grippy contact patch) which makes it MORE likely to lock up, slip, or wash out.

the ideal weight balance of your bike is about 60% on the big tyre (rear) and 40% on the front. that gives your front tyre enough stick for steering, not so much that it'll make it heavy and handle like a pig, nor push out the front.
as a n00b, you WILL NOT recover a front end going out. having one while you're heading downhill is the opposite of what is good, particularly if there's a corner coming up.

my advice for n00bs going downhill would be engine brake as much as possible, light trail braking and lightly on the front. if you can feel the bike diving, you're too hard on the front.

Lotsa political correctness going on here, so I'll wade in.

Akzel is a FUCKIN MORON, do not listen to anything he says.

70% of braking gets done with the front wheel, unless on gravel or ice/snow.

That is all, enjoy the ride, as you were.

[GrayWolf]

Ooooh, can of worms there. My take on gear is head to toe, ATGATT, all the gear all the time.

Bottom line when your skint is head, hands, feet, jacket, troosers. Scour trade me or look at the Cycletreads sale that's on at the mo for cheap gear to get you started. You need to be warm & comfortable, the more protection the better but obviously that relates to what you pay. MX gloves offer no abrasion resistance so at the least you need leather, same with boots. Textile gear is comfortable & most has a bit of body armour which will help if you have a wee low speed roll about when your practising. Full leathers offer the best impact/abrasion protection but do not like getting wet.
Have a good look around & buy the best you can afford whether it's second hand, on sale or from a reasonable supplier like 1 tonne. But make it a priority, comfort & protection is paramount.

there IS a ruddy echo round here!!!:lol::lol:

[Lozza2442]

Ooooh, can of worms there. My take on gear is head to toe, ATGATT, all the gear all the time.

Bottom line when your skint is head, hands, feet, jacket, troosers. Scour trade me or look at the Cycletreads sale that's on at the mo for cheap gear to get you started. You need to be warm & comfortable, the more protection the better but obviously that relates to what you pay. MX gloves offer no abrasion resistance so at the least you need leather, same with boots. Textile gear is comfortable & most has a bit of body armour which will help if you have a wee low speed roll about when your practising. Full leathers offer the best impact/abrasion protection but do not like getting wet.
Have a good look around & buy the best you can afford whether it's second hand, on sale or from a reasonable supplier like 1 tonne. But make it a priority, comfort & protection is paramount.

I hear ya! I will be fully kitted out before I approach a road, I was simply meaning, while I'm still practicing in carparks what are my VITAL items? Still head to toe or is there a priority? (I also am able to steal items off the man while he's training me just doesn't work long term)
What does 1 tonne do? Is it a shop like Cycletreads?

[nodrog]

I see you are located in Auckland, so your best bet is to head around the coro loop.

The neat part is, westpac run a shuttle service for auckland learners who get abit tired and would rather fly home.

[Lozza2442]

Now here is where it can get REALLY heated/technical.

1) I hope the helmet is a 'decent' one.... not a S/hand with an unknown past.
All helmets HAVE to meet a minimum thats, MINIMUM standard for safety.... go to the 'SHARP' helmet testing website for an eye opener. Once you've 'togged out' with a basic set, first priority should be a GOOD helmet. You'll learn about the 'nice stuff' like variable thickness cheekpads, blue tooth/intercomm ready, removable/washable liners (which adds to the cost). Some more expensive helmets have things like variable deformity impact liners to better protect certain areas of the skull. I will also admit that there are some cheaper 'giant killer' helmets out there... do your research and select your personal preference.
Make sure the 'lid' fits you correctly, not just the size round the head. does the 'brim' inside sit too low on your forhead? or like I found with Arhio.. they arent 'deep' enough and my jawline was below the helmet rim. A good salesman will make sure it is correct for you.

OK numero 2....
da jaket!!
This I would make your next purchase, or acquire one. A cheap (sub 200 bucks) jacket is better than none.
Leather..... is STILL the best material for abrasion resistance. and NZ roads are like bastard files on steroids in some places. Downside of leather is when it gets wet, and it does need 'fettling' to keep it nourished and supple. Again there is the 'debate' of synthetic Vs natural conditioners around this... I prefer natural, leather IS natural and does need 'feeding'.
Cordura..... (heavy woven nylon, cloth jackets)
Most so called cordura jackets are not... cordura is registered by dupont. However 'ballistic nylon etc etc' is usually the same stuff or similar. Kevlar ? same kind of thing just a little different. advantages? 'Cordura' dries out in front of a heater overnight..... (thick leather will take days to dry unless you force dry it, and then make the leather itself 'dry'). Available in many styles, colours to suit your taste.
NEEDS for a good jacket...... the more densely woven the better. Many cheap jackets will be 600 denier, good jackets 8/900+ often the tabs blurb will show CE approved... this is for the ARMOUR, dont get fooled into thinking the jacket is at a higher standard. Even cheap jackets have CE approved armour.
Some jackets will have 600 denier 'shell' but either double layered or, kevlar or 8/900 denier over the known 'high impact/friction' areas. Some better to expensive jackets will have leather panels in these areas.
Now here is the 'girly cringe' bit, sorry.... 'girly jackets look 'nice' BUT..... do your research, get your information BEFORE you buy.
fact 1, 'girly jackets' are usually 'styled' so have extra panels, cuts, seams to suit the female form.... more seams? = more weak spots. example a good design jacket the whole back panel is ONE piece of material that goes from collar to at least low back, meets the front ON TOP of the shoulders, and meets the front on the SIDE of the jacket. a seam across the back (shoulders) can be a weak spot and NEVER I'll repeat this NEVER buy a jacket with a seam running down the 'centre' (spine).
Panels and seams can be 'mitigated' by quality stitching (thread used and double/triple stitched)
fact 2.. 'girly' jackets are often 'short' cutesy looking things... there's a reason us blokes buy jackets that cover our arses.... warmth! for a kick off. if you look at a traditional jacket the bottom is usually level with the tail bone... fashion ones are often level or almost with the top of your arse... now lean forwards to the bars... ooops the back rides up a bit!! 'Er indoors is a 'lizzard'.... has more thermals than Rotovegas, she only buys guys medium touring jackets for anything less than mid summer riding.. (touring jackets are the long ones that completely cover your rear assets).
same with sleeves if you can find a jacket an few CM's too long in the arms... when you reach to the bars it will still be covering your wrists.

Pants...... jeans at the very least and even get a set of cheap yellow PVC over pants for the rain, we all have them, you KNOW you want a pair too :killingme
really same thing as the jackets leather/cordura pros and cons......

Cordura can be bloody sweaty for guys around the 'vege's'.... So even a pair of kevlar lined jeans might be a good score.
Tardme really IS your friend here...just had a look there i so much female hardly used gear for sale cheap.

your gloves?? you'll want to replace them soon enough, especially in winter with decent lined/waterproof/insulated ones

How much gear do you need?? I ride 365, 5 pairs cordura pants, l pr leather, 3 kevlar lined jeans, 9 jackets, 6 prs winter, 4prs summer gloves......... 4 helmets.

Boots? if nothing else good steel toed work style boots, Doc martins etc... something with 'substance' and support.

Haha whoops didn't see your comment before I replied!!!

I have a brand new (to me) helmet from Cycletreads and the dude fitted me. Initially I had chosen one helmet but he said that that wasn't a good fit for me and put me in a different one (was actually cheaper) which was hugely on special. (Something rediculous like $300 off)

Thanks for the comments about womens jackets and "prettyness". TBH I could care less when it comes to prettyness. As far as i'm concerned, it's protective clothes and it should be there to HELP not to make me look like a model. But I will defo keep an eye out for those damn seams. Hey look! It's one of those crap jackets you were talking about! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=494615670

I was thinking of getting a jacket off "Tardme" (haha) and as an interval these jeans from Cycletreads - http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/447-pants_women/5509-shift_silhouette_womens_kevlar.aspx What do you think?

Are these gloves any good? (Till I can afford expensive $200 ones) http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/444-gloves_womens/5481-shift_dynasty_womens_gloves_70.aspx

Does anyone know anything about "cnell" gear on Tardme? Seems a bit cheap to be any good? http://www.trademe.co.nz/stores/cnell-bikers-gear?&cid=1

[Lozza2442]

I see you are located in Auckland, so your best bet is to head around the coro loop.

The neat part is, westpac run a shuttle service for auckland learners who get abit tired and would rather fly home.

Where is this? Have you got more deets about this?

[george formby]

If you want to break of gravel just drop your bike and I'm sure something will break. :killingme

Seriously though, gravel riding is really fun, I reccomend you go really slow to start with and use mostly back brake, it's easier to recover from a sliding rear than front. Even then be quite gently and use a slightly higher gear than you normally would when on tarmac (as long as its low enough to not stall) as this will stop you wheel spinning when you apply throttle.

Yup, gravel tightens the sphincter but the same principles apply as the road so slower riding, softer braking & gentle throttle. Teaches you to use the throttle through a corner too which gives good control.
Ahhh, the joys of learning to ride!:banana:

[Drew]

I hear ya! I will be fully kitted out before I approach a road, I was simply meaning, while I'm still practicing in carparks what are my VITAL items? Still head to toe or is there a priority? (I also am able to steal items off the man while he's training me just doesn't work long term)
What does 1 tonne do? Is it a shop like Cycletreads?

Didn't you say you fiance got you into bikes? Shouldn't he know something about this shit?

1 Tonne is a brand, they don't have a store that I'm aware of, but you can order online or from a stockist.

[george formby]

Please don't flame me folks but.....

My G/F had no issues practising her slow speed maneuvers in a basic jacket, gloves & of course helmet. We have added boots & pants now that she is riding on her own. Having all the gear does not make you a better rider, practice does. If you have somewhere close you can go & have a tutu I would not worry too much. When you start to play with the traffic it pays to have all the gear.
If your practicing in a car park you are probably slower than your average cyclist & look what they wear!!!

[Lozza2442]

Didn't you say you fiance got you into bikes? Shouldn't he know something about this shit?

1 Tonne is a brand, they don't have a store that I'm aware of, but you can order online or from a stockist.

He does to a certain extent, but he's been a farm boy for his whole life and so is Motocross not road riding at heart. He only rides in a leather jacket, MX gloves, helmet, jeans and some road boots.

He already had the leather jacket, gloves & helmet and he just randomly went to red baron and grabbed the cheapest boots he could.

I would like to have better gear, cause I'm more likely to feck myself up.

[george formby]

He does to a certain extent, but he's been a farm boy for his whole life and so is Motocross not road riding at heart. He only rides in a leather jacket, MX gloves, helmet, jeans and some road boots.

He already had the leather jacket, gloves & helmet and he just randomly went to red baron and grabbed the cheapest boots he could.

I would like to have better gear, cause I'm more likely to feck myself up.

I disagree, your here asking pertinent questions & using your head, great start. A large pair of stones, an empty head & an urge to be the next Rossi to impress your mates is what fecks up some new riders.

Just get the basics you need for now & as your experience increases you will have a better idea of what to spend the big $$$ on.

[nodrog]

What the fuck is a deet?

[ducatilover]

What the fuck is a deet?
A deer tit.

Get involved with a mentor here (take that suggestion what ever way you want) and ride, lots.
:2thumbsup

[Lozza2442]

What the fuck is a deet?

Haha sorry. Stupid woman thing to say. Do you have any more details about that ride?

[Lozza2442]

I disagree, your here asking pertinent questions & using your head, great start. A large pair of stones, an empty head & an urge to be the next Rossi to impress your mates is what fecks up some new riders.

Just get the basics you need for now & as your experience increases you will have a better idea of what to spend the big $$$ on.

Haha well I definitely lack the stones! :killingme

[Drew]

What the fuck is a deet?

That's a beetroot with an extra chromosome.

[Drew]

Haha well I definitely lack the stones! :killingme

Prove it, I've been fooled before.

[george formby]

Prove it, I've been fooled before.


You too? Roll over Roger..

[Akzle]

...With braking always be smooth, don't grab the front, apply pressure gently so the tire has time to push into the road & grip properly. Same with the rear, smooth, it locks up easily when the weight is transferred forward as the front brake bites so practice to get a feel for it. Practice braking upright, in a straight line. On the road brake before a corner, the dynamics change if you have to brake leaned over. You need both brakes for stable, efficient braking. Every time you ride set a few minutes aside to practice, good braking is the most fundamental thing to riding safely, avoiding trouble is a close second so keep your head up, look ahead & anticipate the consequences of what is happening around you.

...Practice practice practice. Training, learning thinking. It never stops!!

Have fun!
yup this. + grabbing front leaned over will stand you up in a hurry. or highside.



This is exactly the kind of 'advice' any noob needs to avoid. One ride up and down a gorge will NOT leave you competent.
in terms of bike handling, getting a feel for your machine, from point 0, it will go a long long way to competent. as long as your next expectation is not a gp500 race.



Akzel is a FUCKIN MORON, do not listen to anything he says.

70% of braking gets done with the front wheel, unless on gravel or ice/snow.


O RLY?,
...what about down hill, coming up to a corner?

*on a GN where 60-70% of your weight is on the rear wheel anyway?
you gonna grab front on that bike in that situ huh buddy?

for generally, yes i agree, that's something to do with physics.
and i advise against trail braking,
but then, i advise against a lot of braking.
as a start point, grabbing front heading down hill is going to slug your steering, which is going to lead to grabbing more front and panicking, which is not going to end well.

for the other poster though, you'd be doing very well if you managed to somersault a GN.

[Lozza2442]

you'd be doing very well if you managed to somersault a GN.[/color]

Sounds like a challenge haha

[george formby]

for the other poster though, you'd be doing very well if you managed to somersault a GN.

:clap: IIR the forks do a good impression of riding into a hole when you brake hard, though.

[Drew]

O RLY?,
...what about down hill, coming up to a corner?

for generally, yes i agree, that's something to do with physics.
and i advise against trail braking,
but then, i advise against a lot of braking.
as a start point, grabbing front heading down hill is going to slug your steering, which is going to lead to grabbing more front and panicking, which is not going to end well.

for the other poster though, you'd be doing very well if you managed to somersault a GN.[/color]do you ride road bikes?

Why is it do you think, that they have enormous front brakes and crap back ones?

The added forces on a down hill road add so little to anything you should pay it no heed at all.

[Akzle]

actually GN doesn't look that extreme. i was thinking more chopper styles. but still i'd say 60% of the weight is on the back.

[GrayWolf]

Haha whoops didn't see your comment before I replied!!!

I have a brand new (to me) helmet from Cycletreads and the dude fitted me. Initially I had chosen one helmet but he said that that wasn't a good fit for me and put me in a different one (was actually cheaper) which was hugely on special. (Something rediculous like $300 off)
I'll guess its a reasonable lid then..... check it on the SHARP site for shits n giggles. (decent quality... Nolan, Shoei etc)

Thanks for the comments about womens jackets and "prettyness". TBH I could care less when it comes to prettyness. As far as i'm concerned, it's protective clothes and it should be there to HELP not to make me look like a model. But I will defo keep an eye out for those damn seams. Hey look! It's one of those crap jackets you were talking about! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=494615670

:lol: OK, now here's where I'm gonna confuse you, if the back looks the same as the front? NOPE! if the rear has only a couple of panels? Would be OK for a starter jacket. Even though companies like Cnell, Qmoto, etc etc dont have to fund the huge overheads many bike shops do, a $100 jacket is 'budget basement'. Now Cycletreads? if my aging old brain is correct, which it sometimes err's... they used to/still do Ixon bike gear, if correct I think they out display items in tardme at a very reasonable price. Now Ixon is french made and a subsiduary of a ski clothing factory, I'm English and if you think the Aussie/NZ 'rivalry' is hot? We've been at it for 100's of years, so for a Brit to say French made gear is top quality? it farkin needs to be. My 2 'top level' touring jackets are Ixon (we are talkin teknix, spidi quality garments) and my ride to work everyday (30km ride) is an Ixon Skeleton jacket.

I was thinking of getting a jacket off "Tardme" (haha) and as an interval these jeans from Cycletreads - http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/447-pants_women/5509-shift_silhouette_womens_kevlar.aspx What do you think?
at those prices? grab a couple of pairs... if its cold? you'll soon learn why us old buggers openly admit to wearing women's tights, thermals etc under jeans, all you need then is your YELLOW PVC waterproof overtrousers........ :clap::headbang:

Are these gloves any good? (Till I can afford expensive $200 ones) http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/444-gloves_womens/5481-shift_dynasty_womens_gloves_70.aspx
at a quick look they seem OK but I'm guessing are 'summer' gloves. I'm gonna guess depending on hand size (like 'er indoors) most women's gloves will be 'pillion/cutesy' gloves. My 5 brand winter gloves were $280 and look like bleedin gauntlets from a suit of armour..... but TOASTY warm; have a look at the 'guy's' gloves in store.

Does anyone know anything about "cnell" gear on Tardme? Seems a bit cheap to be any good? http://www.trademe.co.nz/stores/cnell-bikers-gear?&cid=1

I guess it's personal choice.. some here will give empiric evidence of durability and quality, I think simply get what you pay for... so maybe get the cheap arsed one now, and save to replace with a good quality brand named jacket... again the interwebby thing is your friend... so many forums, so many riding groups.......

[duckonin]

forget anything you think you know.

get on your bike, head for somewhere with "gorge" in the name.
don't try pushing it, if cars queue behind you then pull over and stop.
pay attention to what your bike does underneath you. there is no point in fighting it. by the time you're ridden there and back you'll be competent.

then read up, go hard and get some l33t skillz.

:Oi: You dick- wit are a waste of space !!!!!!!

[Lozza2442]

:Oi: You dick- wit are a waste of space !!!!!!!

There's a whole lotta hate all of a sudden :/

Haha I could always crank out the Rollerhockey gear for now while I'm practicing. nothing like a little bit of reinforced steel in your pants.

[Akzle]

do you ride road bikes?

Why is it do you think, that they have enormous front brakes and crap back ones?

The added forces on a down hill road add so little to anything you should pay it no heed at all.

just to establish your expertise here... you're a motorcycle instructor? you race?

schweet schweet bike, but, bad attitude.


There's a whole lotta hate all of a sudden :/
they follow me. i would be flattered, but their time obviously isn't worth that much if they can waste it on me =) :D

[nzspokes]

Just come long to Sass mate. Free training. Hours ride then carpark work.

And feel free to ask questions.

[Lozza2442]

Just come long to Sass mate. Free training. Hours ride then carpark work.

And feel free to ask questions.

Where is Sass? That sounds perfect!

[nzspokes]

forget anything you think you know.



So your a Motorcycle trainer now?

Hes been trained by Riderskills. They are very good. Its a great starting point.

Did me just fine.

[nzspokes]

Where is Sass? That sounds perfect!

You posted there before,

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/117274-South-Auckland-Street-Skills/page64?highlight=sass

[Lozza2442]

You posted there before,

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/117274-South-Auckland-Street-Skills/page64?highlight=sass

Ooooh South Auckland Street Skills, gotcha! :Oops: I got confused and thought it was something else. Something new that I hasn't seen.

I'm defo going to go to sass in that case! :ride: :D

[Drew]

:argue:

just to establish your expertise here... you're a motorcycle instructor? you race?

schweet schweet bike, but, bad attitude.


they follow me. i would be flattered, but their time obviously isn't worth that much if they can waste it on me =) :DI've done a bit of racing, but more importantly I understand how a bike works. Even a cruiser is weight biased front. But this young lady doesn't need to understand all that crap (bet a chocate fish that you tried practice 'counter steering' consciously too).

And I've never talked to or about you before this thread, I just call fuckwits...well, fuckwits.

[skinman]

to the OP
welcome to the off topic, bitchy world of KB

For carpark work jeans should be fine but do wear jacket, gloves, boots & helmet.
If you do happen to lose your balance & fall over the gear will save a lot of discomfort.
I have tried it & its true. My bike fell on top of me once (it is 270kg) & I was unbruised.
Boots with ankle protection are good to have as is armored gear.

For things like helmets you wont know what is going to work best for you until you have ridden for a bit unless your lucky & get it right first time.
Dont stress to much as you will probably start replacing gear after the first year or 2 anyway. When the bike size increases & the speed goes up it will expose weaknesses in the gear which wont be apparent at this stage.

Do try & do rider training. Might save you an off.

Use your discretion as to all advise given, it may or may not be best for you.

Have fun.
PS this weekends probably going to be a bit dodgy for riding esp sunday

[george formby]

PS this weekends probably going to be a bit dodgy for riding esp sunday

Do you really need to say that?:mad:

It's p!$$ed down every Sunday afternoon & Monday (my free time) for the last two months.. Tuesday morning will be gorgeooooooous! I can watch it from work. Arse.

All ranted out!


Fook it. I will put my dingalings into a carrier bag & go for a ride anyway, the bike needs a wash.

[duckonin]

There's a whole lotta hate all of a sudden :/

Nope not 'HATE' Lozza :rolleyes: Bad advice from a dick is just plain 'Bad Advice':(. You have just started riding you need the best advice to stay safe, go and do an approved course. Find a 'GOOD' mentor.

[Lozza2442]

Nope not 'HATE' Lozza :rolleyes: Bad advice from a dick is just plain 'Bad Advice':(. You have just started riding you need the best advice to stay safe, go and do an approved course. Find a 'GOOD' mentor.

Hokay, I've already done some training with Ridertraining. Now I just need to practice the basic stuff over and over and I'll prob go to NASS or SASS. I've gotten messages from a dude who seems pretty awesome offering to help (in a non creepy way I should add) so I'll defo try take him up on that offer at some point soon too.
I'm stuck at a family thing all weekend, which is annoying cause all I really want to do is clock up some carpark practice hours -_-

When I recover from the costs of setting up I'm gonna go do this - http://www.ridertraining.co.nz/119527.html or this http://www.riderskills.co.nz/default.asp?pageref=essentialroadskills&rightbar=none preferably the first one but if they have no course dates then the second.

[Akzle]

okay. for the sake of clarity, to help out our new friend and rectify my apparent ignorance, what have i said that is wrong?

it always piques my interest when someone thinks you do something different (asides from slower) on gravel. the physics remain the same, the grip is less. gravel accentuates the motions your vehicle WANTS to do...

fuck the chocolate fish, i'll let you buy me a beer next time i'm in the hood though. :D

[nzspokes]

Hokay, I've already done some training with Ridertraining. Now I just need to practice the basic stuff over and over and I'll prob go to NASS or SASS. I've gotten messages from a dude who seems pretty awesome offering to help (in a non creepy way I should add) so I'll defo try take him up on that offer at some point soon too.
I'm stuck at a family thing all weekend, which is annoying cause all I really want to do is clock up some carpark practice hours -_-

When I recover from the costs of setting up I'm gonna go do this - http://www.ridertraining.co.nz/119527.html or this http://www.riderskills.co.nz/default.asp?pageref=essentialroadskills&rightbar=none preferably the first one but if they have no course dates then the second.

The more professional training you can do the better. Cant remember how many Ive done but they have all been great. I found Sass good as we do different things each week. Trips are also good as you get real time to ride and really get used to the bike. If you come on Mahas trips you can normally find someone to help carry gear. Distances are not to high for L platers and no speeding. They made a big difference to my riding.

[Drew]

okay. for the sake of clarity, to help out our new friend and rectify my apparent ignorance, what have i said that is wrong?

it always piques my interest when someone thinks you do something different (asides from slower) on gravel. the physics remain the same, the grip is less. gravel accentuates the motions your vehicle WANTS to do...

fuck the chocolate fish, i'll let you buy me a beer next time i'm in the hood though. :D

For the love of christ man, the reason you cannot use the rear bike more the the front is very bloody simple. Weight is transferred forward as soon as the brakes are applied, so the amount of traction at the rear is progressively lessened the more that the brakes are put on.

[Lozza2442]

For the love of christ man, the reason you cannot use the rear bike more the the front is very bloody simple. Weight is transferred forward as soon as the brakes are applied, so the amount of traction at the rear is progressively lessened the more that the brakes are put on.

Don't be hating on me, but I got told at my Ridertraining.co.nz training that you're meant to apply the back brake a half second before the front so the weight sits at the back and there's no chance of locking up/flipping the bike. "Should be 60% rear brake 40% front at all times."

[ducatilover]

In my opinion, if you're not braking hard it shouldn't be an issue. I can ride everywhere on a GN using only the rear brake :niceone: If however, you're panic braking, the rear won't stop you fast...ever.

Practice your emergency stops (I know the GN is not a very great bike in terms of stopping, in fact, they suck properly)

[carburator]

Don't be hating on me, but I got told at my Ridertraining.co.nz training that you're meant to apply the back brake a half second before the front so the weight sits at the back and there's no chance of locking up/flipping the bike. "Should be 60% rear brake 40% front at all times."

your not going to flip a GN125

everybike handles and brakes differently and as much as everyone goes on about weight transfer
if you have a crap stock setup that the bike pogo's worse than one of those spring ride on toys
the sensation is pretty spincher cleanching... hence why 60% rear to drag the nose down then
using the front with a decent preload to stop..

i hardly use the rear brake on one of my bikes, a good tap and i leave one hell of a skidmark..
mind you dual sixpots up front you don't grab a handfull just use a ring finger..

personally id get over to the old carrington polytech on a weekend and ride around all the
carparks and inner roads loads of space

have a read of twist of the wrist..

[Lozza2442]

your not going to flip a GN125

I'm not worried about flipping it, was merely repeating what was taught to me in my training for arguments sake


personally id get over to the old carrington polytech on a weekend and ride around all the
carparks and inner roads loads of space

There's no security to tell you to feck off at unitec? Good idea then, will get the fulla to pillion me over there then cause I actually know the area so will know whats next.

[Maha]

Don't be hating on me, but I got told at my Ridertraining.co.nz training that you're meant to apply the back brake a half second before the front so the weight sits at the back and there's no chance of locking up/flipping the bike. "Should be 60% rear brake 40% front at all times."

I always use the rear break...its hit first before the front.
The advice given is good advice, I apply a gentle touch to the rear break going downhill into corners also.
It certainly seats the bike well, you can feel the difference.

[Drew]

Ok, I have once again forgotten that what happens to any advice on here is nothing but more confusing and contradicting information, that will completely do the head of the noob in.

Do what works, practice everything, and punch the first person that brings up fuckin counter steering, straight in the cock! It is something you do already, and thinking about it will not make you better at it.

[Lozza2442]

Ok, I have once again forgotten that what happens to any advice on here is nothing but more confusing and contradicting information, that will completely do the head of the noob in.
Thats the nature of the internet though isn't it? Everyone thinks their way is correct.


Do what works, practice everything, and punch the first person that brings up fuckin counter steering, straight in the cock! It is something you do already, and thinking about it will not make you better at it.
I think the only place I've seen countersteering discussed is in the bike road code. I shall try to find its cock so I can punch it haha.

[Fast Eddie]

(I know the GN is not a very great bike in terms of stopping, in fact, they suck properly)

I'd have to say the mrs gn250 has enough stopping power to make the front wheel squeal like a pig and the rear hover over the ground slightly.. with a better tyre on the front it would do fine. :D

as for that advice about 60% rear 40% front..

well you're not an electronic brake balance controller so you'r never going to be that accurate hehe! but sounds terrible to me..

why don't you just go out and ride OP? put the kms under your belt and gain experience by riding on all roads in all weather.

you'll soon see that if you want to stop fast or in an emergency its going to be all front brakes on MOST bikes.. on tarmac/tar seal road too..

but there are so many techniques and skills to learn. not really a matter of learning a few tips n tricks and then being an awesome rider.

put the kms on the clock, experience rain, ice, snow, gravel, mud, sticky roads, slippery roads etc etc etc.

[Fast Eddie]

punch the first person that brings up fuckin counter steering, straight in the cock!

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/mMByDfFMPcE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

10 charssss

[Fast Eddie]

I always use the rear break...its hit first before the front.
The advice given is good advice, I apply a gentle touch to the rear break going downhill into corners also.
It certainly seats the bike well, you can feel the difference.

true, lots of different braking applications in situations and very dependant on the bike as well - and gentle touch to the rear during a corner is different to her advice she said she got of 60% rear 40% front all the time!

try stopping as quick as you can using the back brake more than the front let us know how it goes.. down hill too..

there are so many techniques to learn like dragging the brakes to settle it down in a corner or as wheelie control ;) etc.. but basics for a learner should focus on stopping safely and quickly when things get sticky. for me its definitely all front brake. but I'm on a sports bike.

[Lozza2442]

Hey all!

First of all, I'm a chick rider, early 20's and my fiancee just got me into riding. Soooo. I've just gotten my learners and secured a bike off trade me. A suzuki GN125, something small with the aim of not killing myself. Haven't been on the road yet, haven't done any corners yet, so WISH ME LUCK!

I'm nervous, but the interwebz seem to have all sorts of tips.
What are YOUR main tips? What do you wish you'd know when you first started riding?

Looking forward to talking to y'all more.

Loz

I'm just gonna put this here.

Referencing to my first post, I was merely asking for tips etc was never my intention to make it seem like I was trying to learn from theory.

For example tips like what the first person responded - White lines are more slippery than you think.

I wish I could be as accurate as a robot though. That'd be pretty epic.

[Fast Eddie]

I was merely asking for tips etc

ask all you want, you'll never get it here at KB muahahaha..

I can't think of any tips.. Ice.. its slippery.. rain.. makes road slippery.. snow.. pretty slippery..

white lines, they are ok, not as slippery as ice, worse when wet

rain.. its wet.. wear a coat.

wind and cold are real killers on long journeys - if u riding for like more than 20 min/half hour u'll want to layer up heaps. keep warm (although if ur up north u wont know what winter and snow is :D hehe)

get a wee tool kit on your bike cause eventually a nut or bolt will rattle lose or you'll get a tyre puncture or something. good to have a basic tool kit and puncture repair kit onboard. I also carry a first aid kit on my bike.

in summer please ride in a bikini at all times. (male or female doesnt matter)

[Lozza2442]

ask all you want, you'll never get it here at KB muahahaha..

I'm quickly learning that haha


in summer please ride in a bikini at all times. (male or female doesnt matter)

I think more males need to do this! It's totally safe. Promise!

[Maha]

true, lots of different braking applications in situations and very dependant on the bike as well - and gentle touch to the rear during a corner is different to her advice she said she got of 60% rear 40% front all the time!

try stopping as quick as you can using the back brake more than the front let us know how it goes.. down hill too..

there are so many techniques to learn like dragging the brakes to settle it down in a corner or as wheelie control ;) etc.. but basics for a learner should focus on stopping safely and quickly when things get sticky. for me its definitely all front brake. but I'm on a sports bike.

I am not totally dependant on the rear brake, I am also fully awear of the front V rear stopping ratios.
Using the both combined in a dire situation on a couple of occassions has been most effective.
Had a chap on a group ride (been riding several months) who thought it was a good idea to drag the front brake whilst performing that dumb shit slalom crap on cold tyres...;)
No real need to explain how that turned out?

[Fast Eddie]

Using the both combined in a dire situation on a couple of occassions has been most effective.
true, nice - sports bike?

I can only speak from my experience. i can use only front, the rear will have so little load on it I'm sure its just skimming/lifting half an inch off the ground. bike stops pretty quick, quicker than if I try and use less front to get traction on the back.. that just ends up in me covering more distance as I try and make the back do some work. front has done it all on all my bikes. (this is like a straight line emergency brake) but I've only owned full sports race rep things. works on the mrs gn250 too tho. back brake as lots of other uses for me, when carrying pillion, cornering, low traction/poor road surfaces, comfort smoothness etc when cruising.


Had a chap on a group ride (been riding several months) who thought it was a good idea to drag the front brake whilst performing that dumb shit slalom crap on cold tyres...;)
No real need to explain how that turned out?

lol, was he doing slalom through cones or just fannying about? oh well I'v done more stupid stuff than I care to remember..

[Fast Eddie]

I think more males need to do this! It's totally safe. Promise!

I dunno if city care wants to clean vomit off the roads everywhere.

If there was enough girls doing it to like even out the ugliness it would work.

It is safe - just stay on your bike

[Lozza2442]

I dunno if city care wants to clean vomit off the roads everywhere.

If there was enough girls doing it to like even out the ugliness it would work.

It is safe - just stay on your bike

Haha I disagree, you're more likely to get crashed into from people getting distracted/running into you on purpose to kill you - depending on what you look like.

[Akzle]

For the love of christ man, the reason you cannot use the rear bike more the the front is very bloody simple. Weight is transferred forward as soon as the brakes are applied, so the amount of traction at the rear is progressively lessened the more that the brakes are put on.

i don't love christ. never knew the guy, and his fan club have waged some of the most fucked up wars/ attempted genocides in history. not to mention being the foundation for the current scheme of governance.
although as they'd have you believe, hell has a special place for those who take his name in vain.

at any rate, could you please point to where i said to "use the rear bike more the the front"?
or even where i suggested using the rear brake more than the front one?
or where i mentioned that weight is NOT transferred forward under braking?
or where i suggested that rear traction was progressively (rather than exponentially) increased under braking?

i can see one fuckup in my posting, but that aint it, and it's more a matter of interpretation/miscommunication than an inherent fuckup.

[Lozza2442]

i don't love christ. never knew the guy, and his fan club have waged some of the most fucked up wars/ attempted genocides in history. not to mention being the foundation for the current scheme of governance.
although as they'd have you believe, hell has a special place for those who take his name in vain.


I always thought the dude would be pretty cool to party with. Anyone who turns water to wine would make for a cheap night

[oneofsix]

I always thought the dude would be pretty cool to party with. Anyone who turns water to wine would make for a cheap night

Not to mention hanging out with lose woman and making food plentiful

[Akzle]

I always thought the dude would be pretty cool to party with. Anyone who turns water to wine would make for a cheap night
boozehag :drinkup: :D

[Stirts]

Not to mention hanging out with lose woman and making food plentiful

Men just love lose woman don't they? with all the meat spilling out over the flaps of a huge gash and a vegetable dropping out :rolleyes:

[oneofsix]

Men just love lose woman don't they? with all the meat spilling out over the flaps of a huge gash and a vegetable dropping out :rolleyes:

Like you I never make misatkes.

Only like to lose woman once we have finished with them. :shutup:
Love loose woman. morally loose not medically, thanks for putting me off my lunch :lol:

[Lozza2442]

Like you I never make misatkes.

Only like to lose woman once we have finished with them. :shutup:
Love loose woman. morally loose not medically, thanks for putting me off my lunch :lol:

http://m.collegehumor.com/picture/6800846/guy-goes-to-airport-to-pick-up-loose-women

[oneofsix]

http://m.collegehumor.com/picture/6800846/guy-goes-to-airport-to-pick-up-loose-women

Now everybody will know who I is :facepalm: ............ not

[Drew]

Why would a vegetable be falling out? I'm feeling quite ill from imagining it quite frankly.

[Stirts]

Why would a vegetable be falling out? I'm feeling quite ill from imagining it quite frankly.

Stop imagining and start to practice ...
<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EKtHkwYazrw/UABq1oKHtFI/AAAAAAAAAxc/Q0HXyAx52BQ/s1600/flick_bean_android_game_ss0.jpg"></img>

[oneofsix]

Stop imagining and start to practice ...


Hitting the G spot, I can do that ... honest :innocent:

Don't know about Drew though, migth be too far up the alphabet for him. :dodge:

[Drew]

Hitting the G spot, I can do that ... honest :innocent:

Don't know about Drew though, migth be too far up the alphabet for him. :dodge:I would say, if you're gonna use a height analogy, that "A" would be at the top. So you should have said. "Don't know about Drew though, might be too far down the alphabet for him".

Then you'd be right.