Race trailer build?

[Fast Eddie]

Just getting a foot in the door, building a trailer for racing cause its easier (and much cheaper) than trying to find and buy one to fulfill all your needs :)

Features we hope to include (cost permitting):
- Fully enclosed
- Fold down work bench(s)
- Once unloaded trailer to open up a bit on the sides too for easy access to tools and work bench space whilst at race track, also some nipples on the roof to hook a tarp onto that will extend out like an awning to cover/shelter area next to trailer when all set up at pits.
- Winch so you can load and unload bikes and sidecar on and off trailer by yourself
- Onboard fuel tank and pump (flag carrying around a bunch of plastic jerry cans, I have a habit of dropping them and cracking them anyway)
- A fold down bed idea for out of town racing events where no other accomodation is available
- Proper spare race wheels and tyres storage, storage for fairings, storage for tools and spares, so everything can be stored out of the way and not have to be moved to get a bike in or out.
- plug sockets, lights in trailer (maybe one or two pointing to the outside/awning area too), either with its power coming from a generator which we would have to buy, or maybe a bank of batteries.. got some truck batteries lying around which are good. bugger charging them all the time though?

(If anyone has cool ideas throw them out there, may incorporate them.)

Will see how much of that we actually manage though. Build the frame and get it on some wheels and towing first as a flat deck then will build the enclosure and rest of it.. anything that ends up being too pricey to implement we will probably scap.

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The sidecar itself is going to get a respray and some work done to it too, so there will be another thread!.. jeez.. too many

[bogan]

- plug sockets, lights in trailer (maybe one or two pointing to the outside/awning area too), either with its power coming from a generator which we would have to buy, or maybe a bank of batteries.. got some truck batteries lying around which are good. bugger charging them all the time though?


Lighting you would get away with high eff LED lights and a battery, just trickle charge it through the trailer plug. Depending on the draw/duration, you should be able to get some 240V inverter time there too, and 12V automotive winch and fuel pump would be easy enough. Nice idea with the trailer tank btw.

[nodrog]

(If anyone has cool ideas throw them out there, may incorporate them.)

one of these to help tow all that shit around

http://image.hotrod.com/f/37391355/hrdp-1109-00+2007-supercharged-24-cylinder-engine.jpg

[scott411]

could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,

[FJRider]

could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,

12 volt electric pump, and a switch at the nozzle end of the (6 meter) line. SORTED.

[Fast Eddie]

Lighting you would get away with high eff LED lights and a battery, just trickle charge it through the trailer plug. Depending on the draw/duration, you should be able to get some 240V inverter time there too, and 12V automotive winch and fuel pump would be easy enough. Nice idea with the trailer tank btw.

Cheers bro, that is useful info indeed. You recon having maybe 2 decent batteries on the trailer would trickle charge thru plug from cars altenator? and would those be enough to run lights and a plug socket so we can plug like an angle grinder or laptop and even an air compressor into? those or the only things we really need power for that I can think of off the top of my head. power tools, laptop and the air comp. the fuel pump already runs off a tiny battery as we have one in the ute, 300litre diesel tank and pump hehe. weighs the ute down a bit!


one of these to help tow all that shit around

http://image.hotrod.com/f/37391355/hrdp-1109-00+2007-supercharged-24-cylinder-engine.jpg

F*ck yea.. been watching tractor pulling on ESPN lately..


could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,
Cheers bro, yea we already have a pump and hoses and nozzle to use (have already trialled the idea on a ute with a 300L diesel tank on the back and pump) so it will have a fairly long hose with a fuel pump nozzle exac same as u get at a gas station. u just turn pump on.. take the hose over to the bike (hose is a good few meters long) and pull the lever and it pumps, when tank is full let go of lever :) couldn't be easier, much easier than pouring out of a jerry can too!

and duly noted about height and wind drag I have been thinking about that a lot.. would be nice to be able to stand up inside it when we go to the north island for events though, I plan to sleep in it.. bench top will double as cook top ;) hehe

[St_Gabriel]

Cheers bro, yea we already have a pump and hoses and nozzle to use (have already trialled the idea on a ute with a 300L diesel tank on the back and pump) so it will have a fairly long hose with a fuel pump nozzle exac same as u get at a gas station. u just turn pump on.. take the hose over to the bike (hose is a good few meters long) and pull the lever and it pumps, when tank is full let go of lever :) couldn't be easier, much easier than pouring out of a jerry can too!


You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel, two totally different animals and the potential for "really bad consequences" if it isnt safe. I am thinking along the lines of intrinsically safe motors, switches and wiring as opposed to the plastic tanks chemical resistance (which may also be an issue). You also need to ensure that the nozzle is electrically bonded to the hose and that the hose is electrically bonded to tank/motor (usually done during manufacture if the hose is intended for use with flammable goods but not necessarily done for diesel).

[bogan]

Cheers bro, that is useful info indeed. You recon having maybe 2 decent batteries on the trailer would trickle charge thru plug from cars altenator? and would those be enough to run lights and a plug socket so we can plug like an angle grinder or laptop and even an air compressor into? those or the only things we really need power for that I can think of off the top of my head. power tools, laptop and the air comp. the fuel pump already runs off a tiny battery as we have one in the ute, 300litre diesel tank and pump hehe. weighs the ute down a bit!

My experience with inverters isn't too good. For that sort of stuff, I'd recomend a 12V compressor, and either a cordless angle grinder (I know the hitachi ones go hard) or and air powered one. Then you would get away with a low current 240v inverter for laptops and cordless grinder chargers if needed. However, anything you use an inverter for, make sure it is ok with a square wave source (unless you get a fancy sin wave inverter), some things like soldering irons and cordless battery chargers will shit themselves if used with a square wave inverter.

Regarding charging it, it depends how much use you get out of them, if they are drained quite deeply it would probably be a good idea to regulate their charging so you don't put too much demand on the alternator. House-buses have a similar setup, so see how they do things I guess.

[Fast Eddie]

You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel..

yea well we are using new items for the trailer tank, was just saying we have the general setup on the ute. big 300litre tank, a pump and fuel hoses with a fuel pump nozzle at the end. it works brilliant.

We will of course use all new parts for the trailer and its petrol tank - diesel tank stays in ute, it is used for refueling the harvester when on other peoples farms etc.. or just not stopping for gas when doing a long drive in the ute haha!

cheers for the tips though, will make sure no static/sparks etc can happen.

[scott411]

You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel, two totally different animals and the potential for "really bad consequences" if it isnt safe. I am thinking along the lines of intrinsically safe motors, switches and wiring as opposed to the plastic tanks chemical resistance (which may also be an issue). You also need to ensure that the nozzle is electrically bonded to the hose and that the hose is electrically bonded to tank/motor (usually done during manufacture if the hose is intended for use with flammable goods but not necessarily done for diesel).

this was more what i was on about, but you seem to be on top of it, you are not ment to have petrol containers for ferry crossings but they are easy to hide, and we used to carry and empty one to show the ferry staff on the odd occasion you got searched

and it may be worth having a filter before or after the pump depending on if the tank will be inside the trailer or outside it, as things like condensation can get into the fuel,

[FJRider]

and duly noted about height and wind drag I have been thinking about that a lot.. would be nice to be able to stand up inside it when we go to the north island for events though, I plan to sleep in it.. bench top will double as cook top ;) hehe

A pop-top hard top roof would sort that issue out ... and sling a hammock, they are comfortable and don't take up much space when not in use. Only a few minutes to put up too.

[Fast Eddie]

My experience with inverters isn't too good. For that sort of stuff, I'd recomend a 12V compressor...


good man, all taken into consideration :)

Actual towing/or how the trailer tows - 17" mag wheels on low profile tyres on leaf springs? yay or nay.. trailer fully loaded would be about 900kg - 1.2 tonne.

Its that or 16" mags.. or 14" steelies (gay)

[BMWST?]

power source from trailer for tyre warmers?

[Fast Eddie]

A pop-top hard top roof would sort that issue out ... and sling a hammock, they are comfortable and don't take up much space when not in use. Only a few minutes to put up too.

yuss, hammocks - why didn't I think of that!!

legend, should save a few kgs and $$'s compared to my little rectangle box that houses a mattress and folds down.

you beaut, keep the ideas coming haha!

the only thing about the pop top i think is that it will reduce the amount of storeage on the move.. have to carry a spare fairing, at least 3 spare wheels with tyres plus spare tyres, plus gear, tools, spare parts..

Once deck is complete will put sidecar on it and see how much room we are working with around it and how much gear has to go on it/in it.

[Fast Eddie]

this was more what i was on about, but you seem to be on top of it, you are not ment to have petrol containers for ferry crossings but they are easy to hide, and we used to carry and empty one to show the ferry staff on the odd occasion you got searched

and it may be worth having a filter before or after the pump depending on if the tank will be inside the trailer or outside it, as things like condensation can get into the fuel,

ah good man, cheers. didnt know that about ferry crossing! good tips. cheers :) tank is probably going to be outside trailer on the drawbar/front of trailer..

[Fast Eddie]

power source from trailer for tyre warmers?

yip want power points and a power source for sure.. :D

[bogan]

good man, all taken into consideration :)

Actual towing/or how the trailer tows - 17" mag wheels on low profile tyres on leaf springs? yay or nay.. trailer fully loaded would be about 900kg - 1.2 tonne.

Its that or 16" mags.. or 14" steelies (gay)

267212

Powder coated steelies! You might want a bit of give in the tyres if the suspensions isn't too flash.

Here's a fancy idea. Go with torsion bar suspension, and have a motor on the end of the torsion bars to raise and lower the whole trailer! Torsion bar might be a good idea anyway if you want to drop the deck below the wheel centers.

[Fast Eddie]

267212

Powder coated steelies! You might want a bit of give in the tyres if the suspensions isn't too flash.

Here's a fancy idea. Go with torsion bar suspension, and have a motor on the end of the torsion bars to raise and lower the whole trailer! Torsion bar might be a good idea anyway if you want to drop the deck below the wheel centers.

yea I do have some 14" steelies to use I guess, only 4 stud tho.. but yea will want some give on leaf springs.

yessss your idea is a good one :) We had thought of that as Kickaha mentioned lowering/raising it. I love that idea - So I looked into it but unfortunately the cheapest torsion suspension bits I could find were costing close to 800/900 bucks.. compared to under 150 for the leaf springs.. soo mm. we opted for long ramps, a winch and the leafs for now. (happy to change plans if torsion bar avail for cheaper hehe, have not purchased leafs yet but about to order them in the next week)

but it is a cool idea, budget might not allow it. We are aiming to build most it for under a grand. so far all the steel needed has cost 350 bucks, the hubs stubs, suspension, coupling, lights etc 350, wheels and tyres, either 50-100 for the 14" steelies with tyres, or 145 for 17" 5 spokes in mint cond with new tyres.. so that 750 - 850 spent depending on rims. Got a fuel tank to pinch and fuel hoses/nozzle freebee.

All the extras I want will be on top of that but they were never part of the budget for the actual trailer. those are extras I can just slap on the visa and not tell the mrs about ;) but they will add up quickly.

[bogan]

yessss your idea is a good one :) We had thought of that as Kickaha mentioned lowering/raising it. I love that idea - So I looked into it but unfortunately the cheapest torsion suspension bits I could find were costing close to 800/900 bucks.. compared to under 150 for the leaf springs.. soo mm. we opted for long ramps, a winch and the leafs for now. (happy to change plans if torsion bar avail for cheaper hehe, have not purchased leafs yet but about to order them in the next week)

sounds a bit steep, on the plus side, my van is probably worth more than I thought :D
Be a bit more work, but you might be able to find a van/ute to pinch some out of at a suitable wreckers; mind you, the associated work with that would throw the budget over 1k, what do the vin/compliance costs come to?

[Fast Eddie]

sounds a bit steep, on the plus side, my van is probably worth more than I thought :D
Be a bit more work, but you might be able to find a van/ute to pinch some out of at a suitable wreckers; mind you, the associated work with that would throw the budget over 1k, what do the vin/compliance costs come to?

haha a plus for you for sure hehe, keep an eye on that suspension hehe.

Vin/Compliance is a good question, I was told you simply turn up, get a standard trailer wof and then register it for whatever 6 months etc usual cost and get a plate.. This is coming from a trailer builder so inclined to believe him but haven't checked it out myself eh. First time building a trailer! lol

Yea was steep for the torsion but that quote came from a chch trailer company, might find cheaper options.. i saw torsion bars from like morris marinas etc but yea bit of effort involved. the leaf spring kit u buy u simply weld on. got everything u need with it so just gonna stick with the leafs n winch for now build.. if the bank acc gets healthier it could be an option to retro fit the torsion suspension and motor to lower/raise at a later date? hehe.. u can do anything with a grinder and a welder eh

[bogan]

haha a plus for you for sure hehe, keep an eye on that suspension hehe.

Vin/Compliance is a good question, I was told you simply turn up, get a standard trailer wof and then register it for whatever 6 months etc usual cost and get a plate.. This is coming from a trailer builder so inclined to believe him but haven't checked it out myself eh. First time building a trailer! lol

Yea was steep for the torsion but that quote came from a chch trailer company, might find cheaper options.. i saw torsion bars from like morris marinas etc but yea bit of effort involved. the leaf spring kit u buy u simply weld on. got everything u need with it so just gonna stick with the leafs n winch for now build.. if the bank acc gets healthier it could be an option to retro fit the torsion suspension and motor to lower/raise at a later date? hehe.. u can do anything with a grinder and a welder eh

I always assumed there would be some certing needed, but a quick look on the ltnz site says not, choice!

[tigertim20]

I always assumed there would be some certing needed, but a quick look on the ltnz site says not, choice!

Nah, 'home built' trailers are so easy to make legal its almost a little frightening. doesnt cost a whole lot either.

[FJRider]

Vin/Compliance is a good question, I was told you simply turn up, get a standard trailer wof and then register it for whatever 6 months etc usual cost and get a plate.. This is coming from a trailer builder so inclined to believe him but haven't checked it out myself eh. First time building a trailer! lol



Option 2 is buy a second had cheapie trailer and swap plates over. But trailer reg's are basic and the rules of registration differ to powered vehicles. You can get/renew rego prior to WoF.

Worst case ... a welding Cert may be asked for.

Maybe ... do a basic flat trailer ... then "add" to it after rego/wof.

[Kickaha]

Actual towing/or how the trailer tows - 17" mag wheels on low profile tyres on leaf springs? yay or nay.. trailer fully loaded would be about 900kg - 1.2 tonne.

Its that or 16" mags.. or 14" steelies (gay)

I'd put the 14 on, cheap tyres and easy to get anywhere in the country, probably something like a 175/65R14 to keep the cost/height down

Wouldn't bother with an onboard fuel tank, more complexity and hassle than it's worth compared to a gas can

[scott411]

I'd put the 14 on, cheap tyres and easy to get anywhere in the country, probably something like a 175/65R14 to keep the cost/height down


agreed here, and also with the leaf springs, having broken a leaf spring on the road it was much easier to get a spare, with a torsion bar set up it will be much harder,

if you want to keep it low a stepped axle is an easier option,

[nzspokes]

You will need a BBQ and bar fridge also. Gas heater for going down south ways. Make the hammock a double in case you score while your away.

[Kickaha]

if you want to keep it low a stepped axle is an easier option,
Good idea, that way you can ride it in

You will need a BBQ and bar fridge also.
Better idea than an onboard fuel tank and more useful, Phil can stock it up for when he hits the deck

[speights_bud]

good man, all taken into consideration :)

Actual towing/or how the trailer tows - 17" mag wheels on low profile tyres on leaf springs? yay or nay.. trailer fully loaded would be about 900kg - 1.2 tonne.

Its that or 16" mags.. or 14" steelies (gay)

Are you building a dual axle system? I'd say go dual if you can with the kind of weight you are talking about if you can afford to do so, and definitely braked. What are you using as a tow vehicle? most vehicles are only rated 500-750kg's un-braked. I think you might find you are a lot heavier than you think once the whole things enclosed etc. mine ended up being a bit heavier than expected. Keep this in mind unless you are building it out of flimsy furniture grade tubing. put the basic trailer over the weight station at your local rubbish tip to see what weight you are starting with.

As far as i could understand the NZ law doesn't require you to follow the vehicles tow rating, there's a test of if you can stop within 8 meters at 30km/h of something like that. regardless of what your trailers axles etc are rated to.

It would appear the Police don't care BUT YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY WON'T COVER YOU if you are above the load rating for your vehicle. A work colleagues friend found this out the hard way using his work wagon to tow a trailer with his sons project car on it. He was overweight for vehicle's tow rating and wrote off his work wagon, another suv he hit and the car on the trailer. No insurance payout as he was driving overloaded vehicle and has to sell the house to pay for the 3 damaged vehicles...

I think you'd probably find most people who bring a trailer to the track are borderline on their vehicle manufacture 'towing capacity'.

As for lights i run two LED driving lights from www.ledworld.co.nz through a bike battery, charged by solar panel. one is above the rear door and one at the front of the trailer, the rear door one swivels out to light the ramp/deck area. Solar panel is cheap as and can just fix it to the roof and leave plugged in.

I went to Jaycar and bought two hobby boxes and pulled the cigarette adapter out of my old scooter, then the solar panel plugs in through the cigarette adapter, and the two switches are rigged up in a 3way system so the lights can be switched on and off from either door. also lets you charge phones etc and even put a USB cigarette adapter in for charging stuff that way.

Solar panel:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/batteries-chargers/auction-498058614.htm

[jellywrestler]

- Onboard fuel tank and pump (flag carrying around a bunch of plastic jerry cans, I have a habit of dropping them and cracking them anyway)
- A fold down bed idea for out of town racing events where no other accomodation is available


what happens at tracks where you 're required to leave your trailer in a trailer park?
also what happens when you're low on motion lotion and someones just nipping into town and you want a bit of gas, do they have to take the whole trailer.

ever heard of a pump up thing called a lilo? or an airbed?

[Fast Eddie]

Maybe ... do a basic flat trailer ... then "add" to it after rego/wof.

Thats the plan :D will just make the flat deck first and then get it wof and reg. then will add a box on top..


I'd put the 14 on, cheap tyres and easy to get anywhere in the country, probably something like a 175/65R14 to keep the cost/height down
Wouldn't bother with an onboard fuel tank, more complexity and hassle than it's worth compared to a gas can
True.. swinger already found pump thats grounded/suitable for petrol.. and thinks nozzle should be fine as long as your holding onto it.
Will see how we go, its not really gonna cost anything to stick the tank on the trailer but if its a bad idea will leave it.
Will go with 14" then.. 15" that much of a difference in tyre choices? cause the 14's are steelie shitters, 15" can be alloy mags..


agreed here, and also with the leaf springs, having broken a leaf spring on the road it was much easier to get a spare, with a torsion bar set up it will be much harder,
if you want to keep it low a stepped axle is an easier option,
yea we were never going to use torsion due to the cost, 800ish was the quote vs 150 for leaf. it is a cool idea to have one that lowers and just drive in. maybe the next trailer we build in a few years will have that :)


You will need a BBQ and bar fridge also. Gas heater for going down south ways. Make the hammock a double in case you score while your away.
already done bro.. bbq and ice box, it'll do. The mrs do a good job of catering too (you missed out last race day kickaha.. all the pies and sammys and coke in the world)


*stepped axle* Good idea, that way you can ride it in
will ask phil about it, he's gonna make the axle.. can you do this with any old leaf springs and hubs/stubs?


*bbq/fridge* Better idea than an onboard fuel tank and more useful, Phil can stock it up for when he hits the deck
lol.. we will def be stocked up with food n drink no worries. still space for a fuel supply. can also use it to top car up when on the road if no station in the whop whops.. happens in the south island.. or even stranded bikers on the side of the road. some fella n a ute filled me up in the middle of no where.


Are you building a dual axle system? I'd say go dual if you can with the kind of weight you are talking about if you can afford to do so, and definitely braked. What are you using as a tow vehicle? most vehicles are only rated 500-750kg's un-braked. I think you might find you are a lot heavier than you think once the whole things enclosed etc..

Na single axle actually, springs etc rated for 1500kg. Being towed behind either a hilux diesel turbo, not sure on its load rating but we have towed a car transporter with a subaru legacy wagon on it no worries at all. or an Audi A4T S-Line.. which is rated to 1200kg braked trailer, unbraked was about what you said, 800/900kg since trailer will not be braked. Will do some brake tests and see how the whole thing feels before we start using it on the open road. I have someone with a fair bit of trailer building helping out, has a bit of experience so he shouldn't lead me too astray. All the points made are valid and are being taken into consideration for sure. Will measure weight of chassis/flat deck once finished and reg/wof. Will then look at enclosure.

thanks for all your points, food for thought. Your trailer looks nice - will look at the solar panel and lighting options. it all sounds very good :)


what happens at tracks where you 're required to leave your trailer in a trailer park?
also what happens when you're low on motion lotion and someones just nipping into town and you want a bit of gas, do they have to take the whole trailer.

ever heard of a pump up thing called a lilo? or an airbed?

I would think in that situation you would park the trailer in the trailer park wouldn't you? Or what would you do..
Haha - who is going to nip into town with my car and trailer? lol no one thats who.. take your own damn car.
I have a blonde mrs prob same thing as an airhead.. oh sh*t sorry you said airbed, no.. what are those?

[Kickaha]

I would think in that situation you would park the trailer in the trailer park wouldn't you? Or what would you do..
Haha - who is going to nip into town with my car and trailer? lol no one thats who.. take your own damn car.
I have a blonde mrs prob same thing as an airhead.. oh sh*t sorry you said airbed, no.. what are those?

Muppet

He's talking about what happens to your gas supply if you have to park it out of the pits, or if you run out of gas how you have to take the whole trailer to top it up rather than just a can

[gatch]

For the fuel. You could have a partitioned section, that houses 5? 20 liter jerry cans. Have your pump drawing out of the jerry cans. No welding up a tank, easy to remove in case of emergency or if you aren't allowed your trailer in the pits etc.

[Fast Eddie]

Muppet

He's talking about what happens to your gas supply if you have to park it out of the pits, or if you run out of gas how you have to take the whole trailer to top it up rather than just a can

I know he was lol.. (he sounded a bit anti so thought i'd take the piss)

well we don't park it out of pits at chch or timaru. but if we do then I guess we bring gay old jerry cans to that race day/location eh.
Fuel tank and pump is removeable whenever we wish.

[Fast Eddie]

For the fuel. You could have a partitioned section, that houses 5? 20 liter jerry cans. Have your pump drawing out of the jerry cans. No welding up a tank, easy to remove in case of emergency or if you aren't allowed your trailer in the pits etc.

yip also good plan.. we already have tank and all the bits to do it which is the main driving force :)

[tigertim20]

regarding the wheels.
if you go with 14 inch steelies, youll save coin in the long run. TWL on teviot street sell trailer wheels, steel rims with second hand tyres (but with lots of meat) for less than you would get just a retread from a tyre shop.
thats where i used to get them when i built trailers.

[DEATH_INC.]

If ya go with a stepped axle (easy enough to make) then you free up the wheels and tyres....I'd run 17's with something like a 235/45 or something similar. Good load rating as you're starting to push it at near a ton and only 2 tyres, and still common as muck, every shitty old commodog and falcon uses 'em....or even if ya run 14's you can use commercials, cost a bit more to start with but'll last forever on a trailer...

[Fast Eddie]

If ya go with a stepped axle (easy enough to make) then you free up the wheels and tyres....I'd run 17's with something like a 235/45 or something similar. Good load rating as you're starting to push it at near a ton and only 2 tyres, and still common as muck, every shitty old commodog and falcon uses 'em....or even if ya run 14's you can use commercials, cost a bit more to start with but'll last forever on a trailer...

oo, some support for 17's haha! i want them just cause they look better and the tow cars have got 17's

but 14's did make sense with tyre choice and cost.. although that doesnt bother me tooo much, what i was more worried about was leaf springs plus low profile tyres will have the thing bouncing around and getting airborne..

[geoffm]

Put a pipe socket on the side/ rear and buy (or make) a small crane - run around $200 on trademe and good for 250kg or so. Very handy if you need to lift or load something. Use a windup trailer jack for the weight supporting leg by the crane. With a pipe socket, it is removable, so you don't have to take it - set it up so it folds down and latches to the side of the trailer for transport.

Don't forget a good jockey wheel for the front.
Built in ramps, or at least a carrying facility for them. I have a ramp fixed to the drawbar of my trailer with bolts with wingnuts on the top (no tools needed) and it is so handy.

Get the frame sandblasted and hot dip galvanised. Mine is panted with cold galv paint, which works, but not much cheaper than proper galv, which is a lifetime thing.
Get bearing buddies for the hubs - makes keeping them lubed easy.

Lots of tie down points of course - including some flush in the floor.

We have a a 2kVa inverter in the campervan, runs everything, even the microwave for a short while.

[Mental Trousers]

You will need a BBQ and bar fridge also.
Better idea than an onboard fuel tank and more useful, Phil can stock it up for when he hits the deck

Me, I'd put a fridge in, somewhere to plug a jug in, a sink to do dishes and one of these:

http://www.multikaicooker.co.nz/

BBQ or a decent cooked meal anytime.

I'd also build it so it was the same frontal dimensions as the towing vehicle and put a pop up roof on it. You can build it long if you need the volume but frontal area has a huge affect on how much gas you use but it's going to weigh pretty much the same either way.

[speights_bud]

as others have said about building trailer as a basic one and get reg sorted, it doesn't even need to have a solid deck. I bought mine as a flat deck type and i built it up from there.

register from new if you can, initial reg cost gets you plate etc and 12 month warrants for 5 years i think. its almost cheaper every 5 years to re-register than pay for WOF's

[Fast Eddie]

Put a pipe socket on the side/ rear and buy (or make) a small crane - run around $200 on trademe and good for 250kg or so.

Lots of tie down points of course - including some flush in the floor.

We have a a 2kVa inverter in the campervan, runs everything, even the microwave for a short while.

Yip, lots of tie down points. very good point. haha a crane might be getting keen, we have a winch to winch the sidecar up into the trailer easy enough. will have onboard ramps which slide under trailer.


Me, I'd put a fridge in, somewhere to plug a jug in, a sink to do dishes and one of these:
I'd also build it so it was the same frontal dimensions as the towing vehicle and put a pop up roof on it. You can build it long if you need the volume but frontal area has a huge affect on how much gas you use but it's going to weigh pretty much the same either way.
Not bad ideas, we have gas bbq or coal bbq. both portable/small. A sink you recon.. bucket will probably have to do this time. Yea know about frontal area, not too sure how we going to go about it, width is dictated by the sidecar really, will be 1.9m wide.. will see how wide the audi is. its a fairly substantial sedan but prob not that wide.

This is really a budget trailer above all things, just trying to add some cool touches to what is a budget, cheap as we can trailer haha. we have a lot of stuff lying around/freebees though.


as others have said about building trailer as a basic one and get reg sorted, it doesn't even need to have a solid deck. I bought mine as a flat deck type and i built it up from there.

register from new if you can, initial reg cost gets you plate etc and 12 month warrants for 5 years i think. its almost cheaper every 5 years to re-register than pay for WOF's
Cheers

[FJRider]

... we have a winch to winch the sidecar up into the trailer easy enough. will have onboard ramps which slide under trailer.


Cheers

Have you thought of putting a horse float type rear door/ramp instead of ramps that are extra to carry ... ???

[Fast Eddie]

Have you thought of putting a horse float type rear door/ramp instead of ramps that are extra to carry ... ???

yip, tis a smarter Idea - just thinking that the height of the fold down door may restrict the angle of the ramp and cause the sidecar to bottom out.. we think we are going to need some pretty long ramps (up to 3.6m haha!) so we can winch it on and off without bottoming the sidecar out.

Will have to sort that out once deck is finished and rolling on wheels so we can see its height and what angle we need the ramp to be at to avoid bottoming out.

Kickaha linked me up to some drop axle technical websites so will look at making a drop/step axle to lower the trailer.

but then he also pointed out the trailer itself may start bottoming out..

grrr..

any calculations/formulas I can use here to figure out trailer minimum ride height to be able to still get in and out of gas stations/driveways/curbs/speed bumps?

cheers fellas, some good points have been coming up which is what we need :D

[FJRider]

yip, tis a smarter Idea - just thinking that the height of the fold down door may restrict the angle of the ramp and cause the sidecar to bottom out.. we think we are going to need some pretty long ramps (up to 3.6m haha!) so we can winch it on and off without bottoming the sidecar out.



Either a curved (fiberglass ??) panel on inside of the door so it rolls over the lip, or ensure the door area can take the bike ... then raise the door to level to roll into/out of the trailer.

[Fast Eddie]

... then raise the door to level to roll into/out of the trailer.

yea thats worth looking at if we can't make a ramp solution that avoids bottoming out.

[DEATH_INC.]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.

[DEATH_INC.]

oo, some support for 17's haha! i want them just cause they look better and the tow cars have got 17's

but 14's did make sense with tyre choice and cost.. although that doesnt bother me tooo much, what i was more worried about was leaf springs plus low profile tyres will have the thing bouncing around and getting airborne..
If ya towie has 17's, then use the same, and same stud pattern and offset, then you can share the spare wheel too.
All My trailers have had shocks, takes care of the bouncing :cool:

[Tony.OK]

Either a curved (fiberglass ??) then raise the door to level to roll into/out of the trailer.


yea thats worth looking at if we can't make a ramp solution that avoids bottoming out.

Then you can just mount a couple of pulleys and have your winch do the lifting/lowering of the rear door. :2thumbsup

[Flip]

It just needs a stripper pole and it would be prefect.

[HenryDorsetCase]

yea thats worth looking at if we can't make a ramp solution that avoids bottoming out.

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though

[speights_bud]

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system

[Mental Trousers]

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system

I just stick a trolley jack under the tow ball and lift it up. Stops the bike bottoming out and I don't need to disconnect the trailer.

[bogan]

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though

Better idea, have one side fold out into an awning type thing, hook a wire cable from the awning through some pulleys to the rear door, bam, counterweighted door!

[Fast Eddie]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.
If ya towie has 17's, then use the same, and same stud pattern and offset, then you can share the spare wheel too.
All My trailers have had shocks, takes care of the bouncing :cool:
Sold! yep tow car has 17 5 studs so I went ahead and got myself 2 cheap 17" 5 spoke rims to match the tow car, can share spare now too! fantastic. Will look into some cheap shocks if the thing is too bouncy. Rims came with brand new tyres so that solves tyres for now.. common 5 X 100 hubs anyway so sure I can find 15" or 14" in that stud pattern if the 17's are awful.
Yea rear door idea not too bad, might be heavy. but will look into it for sure.

Then you can just mount a couple of pulleys and have your winch do the lifting/lowering of the rear door. :2thumbsup
phew getting technical haha.. prob have to make whatever the pulleys mount to very strong... thats in the maybe basket for now haha

It just needs a stripper pole and it would be prefect.
can be arranged. removeable during transit

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though
yep, I can see how it would work and is in the maybe basket. Weight would be an issue for sure.

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system
will have a good jockey wheel on it for sure, but then generally the trailer just tips right up anyway.. its how a fellow sidecar racer 'the capitan' unloads his outfit. unhooks his trailer and just tips it up and lets the trailer shoot out from underneath it. he gets his swinger to do it usually..

I just stick a trolley jack under the tow ball and lift it up. Stops the bike bottoming out and I don't need to disconnect the trailer.
Good idea actually, cheap and effective :)

Better idea, have one side fold out into an awning type thing, hook a wire cable from the awning through some pulleys to the rear door, bam, counterweighted door!
Come again... we are having one side of the trailer fold out like u say (thats the plan anyway.) but.. that would be on a 90 degree angle to the rear door.. not too much stress on the pully having that change of direction as well?..
in the maybe basket lol.. the awning was really just going to be canvas with little nipples on the roof of trailer for it to hook onto on trailer roof and then extend out and held up by a couple of poles. should cover enough area to house
a couple bikes/chairs/work bench etc.

cheers fellas.

got the hubs/stubs/leafs/coupling and wheel arches and wheels bought/ordered. So should be rolling next weekend if there is time to crack welder out.

We almost went with 100mm drop axle, but 170 bucks for 2 drop links, gonna hold off now - still on track for the under 1k budget build... can always retro fit them if the trailer is too high.

[Mental Trousers]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.
Yea rear door idea not too bad, might be heavy. but will look into it for sure.


If you've got a winch in it for the chair then once you've loaded the outfit run the cable up to a pulley on the roof then down to the ramp.

[Fast Eddie]

If you've got a winch in it for the chair then once you've loaded the outfit run the cable up to a pulley on the roof then down to the ramp.

sounds easy. only thing to go wrong would be whatever the pulley is mounted to is not strong enough. sure we can sort that out.

overall weight is definitely coming into play now..

[Kickaha]

overall weight is definitely coming into play now..
Eat less pies then you fat cunt

[Fast Eddie]

Eat less pies then you fat cunt

lol, I got myself a road bike (push bike) starting to fit into the leathers better.. sort of.. :crazy:

all the bits and pieces arrived end of last week from Stanza Trailers up north - I recommend John hes great to deal with and with the best prices (even with north to south island freight included) I found during my quick hunt for bits.

Got the springs, hardware, hubs, stubs, coupling and any associated bits, bearings for the hubs etc. All up 350.00 including freight to south island. Freight took less than 3 days, Think it left on a wednesday and arrived friday morning.

Frame is done I think, dunno if we need more strength but should be pretty strong! draw bar and coupling on tomorrow weather permitting. been rainy as.. And then chuck the springs and wheels and axle on after the next race weekend.

267560

So far:

Steel - 350.00 (with some left over still)
Stubs/Hubs/Springs/Coupling and associated bits - 355.00 incl freight
17" Wheels with near new tyres - 100.00
Lights/Wiring - 50.00

Total: 855.00

I could have shaved 50 bucks off tyres and rims by going some of the cheaper options of 14" and 13" steelies but flag, this way I have same rims and tyres as tow car. and looks better than steelies.

The decking is going to push the budget up - thinking of ply for lack of a better idea. How thick? I was going for the 20mm thick zone but maybe overkill?
Is there cheaper/stronger decking options?

Anyway its about 100 per sheet of the thick stuff, could save some money by going thinner. 2.4m X 1.2m sheets.. the trailer is measuring in at 3.6m long by 2m wide deck space. prob need 3 sheets, so say another 300 bucks for deck.

And then there is reg and wof.. still not sure on costs but going to assume about 50 for a wof and the govt site said 98 bucks for 12 month rego?

so safe to say will prob overshoot the 1k budget and hit about 1300 dollar mark. But meh, 1300 bucks for a new trailer with that big of a useable deck area I'm still happy.

Enclosure will be started a week or two after reg and woffing the trailer and making sure it tows good and can load the bike on easy etc.

[FJRider]

Marine 5 ply on the deck. Marine 3 ply on the sides. The roof ... light sheet aluminium or steel.

[Fast Eddie]

Marine 5 ply on the deck. Marine 3 ply on the sides. The roof ... light sheet aluminium or steel.

good man.

photos when shes rollin or close to it.

[tigertim20]

you didnt hear it from me.

go to Vulcan steel in Dunedin, and ask what damaged sheets they have of 1.6mm or so, they sell it cheaply, often they have only a slight bend of kink on a corner which you can cut around, or bash flat with a hammer. steel deck in an enclosed trailer might have some benefits too.

Ive had sheets for $50 or so from them.

but shhh its a secret!

[Fast Eddie]

you didnt hear it from me.

go to Vulcan steel in Dunedin,

but shhh its a secret!

cheers!

10 char

[tigertim20]

also, if they dont have any, ask at the other metal chaps.

[speights_bud]

In an attempt to avoid hi-jacking your thread, started my own Re: A-frame RaceVan/Trailer thing...

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/151816-A-Frame-towing

[FJRider]

cheers!

10 char

With a steel skin on the outside and wooden lined inner ... with vents at the top and top of the sides (if you can understand that) ... it will be cooler inside in the summer heat. A white roof helps in this respect too ...

[FJRider]

cheers!

10 char

Joinery shops (and the like) often have cover sheets on pallets of wood sheeting they buy. They seldom use them so either sell them cheap or give them away. ASK around ... it wont be treated stuff though ...

[Fast Eddie]

With a steel skin on the outside and wooden lined inner ... with vents at the top and top of the sides (if you can understand that) ... it will be cooler inside in the summer heat. A white roof helps in this respect too ...


Joinery shops (and the like) often have cover sheets on pallets of wood sheeting they buy. They seldom use them so either sell them cheap or give them away. ASK around ... it wont be treated stuff though ...

cheers man! yip we plan to give it some thin sheet steel skin on the outside, and yip can understand the vents. with the hammocks/beds tucked away i may be sleepin in it once or twice. Not sure if heat will be an issue in the south but maybe on the north island :)

will ask around for cover sheets, should be a good knock off the price - untreated won't matter if we layer on a bit of primer/sealer would it? got plenty of odd pales of house paint primers and sealers lying around the house haha.

[FJRider]

Not sure if heat will be an issue in the south but maybe on the north island :)

will ask around for cover sheets, should be a good knock off the price - untreated won't matter if we layer on a bit of primer/sealer would it? got plenty of odd pales of house paint primers and sealers lying around the house haha.

The heat is an issue in the summer ... sometimes it gets into double figures.

It may pay to buy some (2nd hand) closed cell matting for insulation winter/summer.

[nodrog]

... How thick? I was going for the 20mm thick zone but maybe overkill?...

I would halve that thickness.

Unless you are 500kg and walk around in high heels?

[Kickaha]

Unless you are 500kg and walk around in high heels?

I didn't realise you two had met

[Fast Eddie]

I would halve that thickness.

Unless you are 500kg and walk around in high heels?

nup no where near 500kg on these heels, and good, the less thickness the less cost for me. Will still follow up the cover sheet idea though probably cheapest of all.


The heat is an issue in the summer ... sometimes it gets into double figures.

It may pay to buy some (2nd hand) closed cell matting for insulation winter/summer.
lol double figures temps are rough, yea good idea about a bit of insulation - not too fussed tho :) not too soft haha


I didn't realise you two had met
;)

[speights_bud]

got 12mm ply on the floor of mine, and the door/ramp. got it cheaper as it was untreated and painted the bottom and edges with that black tar seal paint used on housing block walls. Used cheap Exterior white for the inside. 12mm i've found is plenty thick enough and should be ok with the frame spacing you have in the pics.

The rear door of mine is heavy though, i lift it up and down manually but could be a bit much for some. I've got some garage door springs but never got around to fitting them.

[Fast Eddie]

got 12mm ply on the floor of mine, and the door/ramp. got it cheaper as it was untreated and painted the bottom and edges with that black tar seal paint used on housing block walls. Used cheap Exterior white for the inside. 12mm i've found is plenty thick enough and should be ok with the frame spacing you have in the pics.

The rear door of mine is heavy though, i lift it up and down manually but could be a bit much for some. I've got some garage door springs but never got around to fitting them.

sounds good to me, 12mm is gonna almost halve the cost anyway if I buy new sheets, if i get cover sheets even better. So it sounds good to me!

yea we aren't sure about rear door yet.. I'm guessing we will make it strong and us it as ramp as well so will need some heavy springs or a pulley idea.

bla deal with it later. get the flat deck finished first and wof and reg'd. hoping it will tow good!

[Kickaha]

yea we aren't sure about rear door yet.. I'm guessing we will make it strong and us it as ramp as well so will need some heavy springs or a pulley idea.


Check out how Alex has done his, rear door as a ramp is a good idea, less shit to carry, have people borrow and lose

[Fast Eddie]

Check out how Alex has done his, rear door as a ramp is a good idea, less shit to carry, have people borrow and lose

too true. yip will have another look at his next weekend at the race meet. think he just has a frame with sheet metal riveted to it and the door is a sturdy frame with a couple of garage springs to help take the weight.. doesnt work too well though, usually need 2 people to lift it up haha

[Kickaha]

. doesnt work too well though, usually need 2 people to lift it up haha

Can't be real men then because I can do it by myself

[FJRider]

too true. yip will have another look at his next weekend at the race meet. think he just has a frame with sheet metal riveted to it and the door is a sturdy frame with a couple of garage springs to help take the weight.. doesnt work too well though, usually need 2 people to lift it up haha

Have a look at the set-up on Horse floats. Commonly (often) used by women ... they (most) aren't known for their brute strength.

A simple counter-weight system works well.

[Fast Eddie]

Most of draw bar done and suspension mounted. still to weld up and finish draw bar and chuck on coupling and make axle.

We were going with the drop axle/stepped axle idea but then the drop links were like 170 bucks. So flag for now, just going to mount the axle on top of the leaf spring rather than under it if that makes sense.. drops it a few mm.

267681267680

then its pretty much rolling, get a cheap deck on it and the lights and we should be able to wof and reg it and start using it..

and then start the enclosure which should be the fun part :D

[tigertim20]

make sure you weld some flat on the draw bar and BOLT the coupling to that. You used to get away with welding the couplings on, but they have to be bolted on now.

[Fast Eddie]

oh true? how come? was planning to bolt it on anyway but maybe bolt + welding make sure it doesnt come off hahaha...

[speights_bud]

Safety chain must be bolted on now too i think. Had to modify the bosses one for him coz it was welded on.

[tigertim20]

oh true? how come? was planning to bolt it on anyway but maybe bolt + welding make sure it doesnt come off hahaha...

nah cant be welded on at all. cant remember what the reasoning was, but suffice to say they changed it. a bit of 80x10 flat welded onto the draw bar with holes for the coupling should be fine

[Fast Eddie]

cool, no worries can do that easy enough.. bolt safety chain to same bit of flat steel eh?

[FJRider]

nah cant be welded on at all. cant remember what the reasoning was, but suffice to say they changed it. a bit of 80x10 flat welded onto the draw bar with holes for the coupling should be fine

I think welding affects the heat treatment of the chain. (Weakens it)

Nylock nuts seldom come off.

[FJRider]

We were going with the drop axle/stepped axle idea but then the drop links were like 170 bucks. So flag for now, just going to mount the axle on top of the leaf spring rather than under it if that makes sense.. drops it a few mm.





Check out the local car wreckers ... they may have the axle you seek ...

[tigertim20]

cool, no worries can do that easy enough.. bolt safety chain to same bit of flat steel eh?

yes
10 chars . . .

[Fast Eddie]

Check out the local car wreckers ... they may have the axle you seek ...

not a bad idea, not sure size of axle yet, gotta see how we looking with the offset and width of rims which I haven't picked up.
The flat deck itself is 2m wide, and the wheels are on the outside of that 2meters. Tyres/rims are 215mm wide each, plus whatever offset will push them out a bit from the hubs too... must be getting dangerously close to being too wide

[bogan]

We were going with the drop axle/stepped axle idea but then the drop links were like 170 bucks. So flag for now, just going to mount the axle on top of the leaf spring rather than under it if that makes sense.. drops it a few mm.

That'll mean the U bolts have to take the whole weight of the trailer then?

[Fast Eddie]

That'll mean the U bolts have to take the whole weight of the trailer then?

lol yea, maybe not a great idea.

the springs are a couple inches shorter/lower than expected anyway.. so may just put axle on properly and see how the height is sitting.

thinking the idea of some extendable legs at the back of trailer and strong jockey wheel up front, we can just til the trailer to help load and unloading.

we'll see what we come up with for easy loading and unloading.

[imdying]

The U bolts will take it fine.

[Fast Eddie]

haha.. there was a comment after yours imdying but its disappeared..

anyway, yea not sure on quality of u-bolts. kit itself was pretty reasonably priced haha. I'll get my swinger to make the call on how to mount axle, haha he'll know better than me if the u bolts are good enough

[FJRider]

Get in contact with some of the local pony-clubs too ... some (one ???) may have a float that for some reason ... is in the process of wrecking or being used for spare parts. Or just still intact (not legal) but not pretty to look at ... and want it gone. (The wool cheque came in and Mum bought a NEW one)

Even put an add in the paper for one .... see whats out there.

[speights_bud]

not a bad idea, not sure size of axle yet, gotta see how we looking with the offset and width of rims which I haven't picked up.
The flat deck itself is 2m wide, and the wheels are on the outside of that 2meters. Tyres/rims are 215mm wide each, plus whatever offset will push them out a bit from the hubs too... must be getting dangerously close to being too wide

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/13d/trailers-light-simple.html

Light simple trailer dimension limits:

Maximum width

The maximum width for a light simple trailer (including its load) is 2.5 metres (excluding side marker lights and direction indicators and the bulge towards the bottom of the tyre). An additional 25mm is allowed on each side of the vehicle for ropes, lashings, straps, chains, connectors and tensioning devices that are neither permanently nor rigidly fixed to the vehicle; or J-hooks (to secure stock crates or bins).

Side marker lights etc:
http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/about-your-vehicle/light-trailer-requirements.html

B. If the trailer or its load is more than 2 metres wide, it must have two white lights at the front to show how wide it is.


Sounds like you'll fit ok, just need some marker lights on the front corners, you might need rubber flares or something if the tyres stick out wider than the mudguards too.

I suggest maybe getting one or two of those gay looking extended wing mirror thingy's coz the trailers can be a bitch to see anything past. Or just swerve in the lane to swing the trailer out of the way so you can have a look, that's what i currently do haha

[Fast Eddie]

Sounds like you'll fit ok, just need some marker lights on the front corners, you might need rubber flares or something if the tyres stick out wider than the mudguards too.

I suggest maybe getting one or two of those gay looking extended wing mirror thingy's coz the trailers can be a bitch to see anything past. Or just swerve in the lane to swing the trailer out of the way so you can have a look, that's what i currently do haha

yea looks like we will be fine, mud gaurds/arches will be made up out of some sheet metal or checker plate or whatever so will make em wide enough to cover wheels.

few marker lights won't be a prob. hope to be towing in a couple of weekend time then i can get on to painting the sidecar up.

haha at the swerving.. will see what i come up with.. prob the gay mirrors

[tigertim20]

yea looks like we will be fine, mud gaurds/arches will be made up out of some sheet metal or checker plate or whatever so will make em wide enough to cover wheels.

few marker lights won't be a prob. hope to be towing in a couple of weekend time then i can get on to painting the sidecar up.

haha at the swerving.. will see what i come up with.. prob the gay mirrors

before you get too carried away tryna make all that shit yourself, go to TWL, and have a look around, they sell sets of wheel guards for single and double axle, and they are cheap, formed sections, both sides from about $40 or so. save the hassle and just buy shit like that pre made.
http://twlnz.co.nz/images/products/d07%20mudguards.pdf

http://twlnz.co.nz/product-range/light-trailer

[Fast Eddie]

cool, teviot street i know the place. will check it out. might get some heavy duty u bolts too while im there

[tigertim20]

cool, teviot street i know the place. will check it out. might get some heavy duty u bolts too while im there
mate, youll be a kid in a candy store!

[Fast Eddie]

need a vent

@#$(^#@&$^(@#$*%@#$

apparently the new 17's I got for the trailer don't fit on the hubs. stud pattern is fine but my mate who is making up the axle at the moment for me, said something about the hub centers being too long?

I can't picture what he is saying.

I know standard 16" or 15" subaru legacy rims fit on it fine.. so why do the 17" aftermarket rims (that came off same legacy model) don't fit.

murphys law eh.

So.. who wants 2 17" rims off subaru legacy with near new potenza tyres on..

FFS.. !!!!!!!!!!

[Kickaha]

I can't picture what he is saying.

Ah the benefit of a university education

Probably the axle end sticks out to far so it either hits on the centre cap or the backside of the wheel, you could possibly get them machined but may not be able to fit the centre caps

[Fast Eddie]

Ah the benefit of a university education

Probably the axle end sticks out to far so it either hits on the centre cap or the backside of the wheel, you could possibly get them machined but may not be able to fit the centre caps

haha uni aye, I can't recommend it at all, get in the way of racing, its expensive and doesn't appear to have any positive effects.

yea, I'll have to look at it in chch this weekend. a fuckn pain in the ass cause trailer pretty much done and ready for wof and reg.. except now gotta find new wheels probably!

keen as to get them machined/make it work - no centercaps on the rims so don't care bout that. there must be a way to get em to work! lol

[bogan]

Ah the benefit of a university education

Probably the axle end sticks out to far so it either hits on the centre cap or the backside of the wheel, you could possibly get them machined but may not be able to fit the centre caps

That or some spacers if it isn't by too much...

[Fast Eddie]

That or some spacers if it isn't by too much...

sweet! I hope so, where there is a will there is a way.. up in chch this weekend so will have a good look and see what I can do.

cannot be fucked having to hunt for new wheels and get rid of these ones - hassle!

[driftn]

Don't get rid of them yet!, It is more than likely the center caps wont fit, the hub hole is the same size on 15, 16, and 17 subaru wheel. I doubt the center caps will fit on all 3.

[Fast Eddie]

it doesn't even have center caps (the rims) just open hole.

yea i can't understand what the problem is.. the stud pattern is good and the offset is good.

so wtf is the problem.

its gonna take someone university educated to drive up to chch and have a look eh ;)

lol.. will list the wheels for cheap on here if they really can't fit.. The guy who sold me the stubs/hubs etc said they would be fine and didnt mention anything about some center shit that could be too long or too short or whatever..

will see on the weekend i guess

[FJRider]

it doesn't even have center caps (the rims) just open hole.

yea i can't understand what the problem is.. the stud pattern is good and the offset is good.

so wtf is the problem.

its gonna take someone university educated to drive up to chch and have a look eh ;)



I think you will find .. if you place the 15 or 16 inch rim next to the 17 inch rim. With the face with the stud pattern on the same side. You will find the face the same distance in from the edge of the rim. So the length from the inner side of the stud pattern face is that extra inch further than the 16 inch rim. And making contact with either the chassis, the suspension, or the inner mudguard.

My two cents worth of primary education ...

[Fast Eddie]

I think you will find .. if you place the 15 or 16 inch rim next to the 17 inch rim. With the face with the stud pattern on the same side. You will find the face the same distance in from the edge of the rim. So the length from the inner side of the stud pattern face is that extra inch further than the 16 inch rim. And making contact with either the chassis, the suspension, or the inner mudguard.

My two cents worth of primary education ...

yea sounds plausible..

will have to wait and see when I get up there.

When I bought the hubs and stubs all that was mentioned was offset and stud pattern of rims.. so I didn't know any other variables would become such a problem. Can we not build around it somehow? or chop/machine/grind something.

have to wait to actually see whats going on when i get to chch anyway.

[bogan]

I think you will find .. if you place the 15 or 16 inch rim next to the 17 inch rim. With the face with the stud pattern on the same side. You will find the face the same distance in from the edge of the rim. So the length from the inner side of the stud pattern face is that extra inch further than the 16 inch rim. And making contact with either the chassis, the suspension, or the inner mudguard.

My two cents worth of primary education ...

errr, maybe you should have gone to secondary, I have no idea what you mean :pinch: There's no reason a 15/16/17 should generically have mounting difficulty (excepting brake caliper distance of course). This one sounds like the manufacturer just made the rim 'hub' section is just made a bit differently to what the hub manufacturer was expecting.

http://www.vibratesoftware.com/images/Measuring%20hub%20center%20runout%20-%20Small.JPG

The sticky out bit is the hub center, I'm picking the rims just don't have a large enough diameter, or deep enough hole for it to fit in.

[FJRider]

When I bought the hubs and stubs all that was mentioned was offset and stud pattern of rims.. so I didn't know any other variables would become such a problem. Can we not build around it somehow? or chop/machine/grind something.

have to wait to actually see whats going on when i get to chch anyway.

Hack and slash of rims is never the best solution.
Either lengthen the axles, or fit the narrower rims.

[Fast Eddie]

The sticky out bit is the hub center, I'm picking the rims just don't have a large enough diameter, or deep enough hole for it to fit in.

yip.. it looks like the center hole of the 17's I bought is too small to fit on the hubs I bought.. :facepalm: won't bother machining the rims out at this stage.. maybe someone will buy em on trademe for what I paid and then I can just buy new 17's again..

what a bastard.

but don't really care.. had a mint day today haha!

[Kickaha]

yip.. it looks like the center hole of the 17's I bought is too small to fit on the hubs I bought.. :facepalm: won't bother machining the rims out at this stage..


Take the wheels and hubs to Royce Clive engineering and say "fix this" shouldn't cost a lot and then you have the wheels you want, make sure your spare fits to

[Fast Eddie]

Tahe the wheels and hubs to Royce Clive engineering and say "fix this" shouldn't cost a lot and then you have the wheels you want, make sure your spare fits to

must spread rep..

must give ya too much love eh

I'll try it out.. if its cheap enough ;) im all over it