It's time to get a bike!

[zique]

Hi there everyone,I'm a newbie here.I joined up ages ago but I am back again.
I've decided it's time to learn to ride a bike,everytime I see someone on a bike,I feel so bad because I have always wanted to ride a bike.But never made the effort to.

I have no experience riding one:( But I have been doing a lot of research and decided I want a honda CBR MC22 to learn on.I am a quick learner and am very determined to fulfil this little bike-riding dream.
I am 5'6,69kgs and of slim to medium build so I want a light bike with good handling.

I've been looking on trademe and found two bikes that I'll be learning on.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=489601515

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=495854003

Question,does it seem like the second bike has a single brake disc on the front?I know MC22s have two.

And does anyone know anyone who can help me check the bikes out?I have no knowledge of anything about bikes and I cannot test ride out without a license. I want to buy a bike and get my learners etc before the new law comes out.

Thanks.

[Edbear]

Slow down a bit there mate. If you have not ridden a motorbicycle before the bike you are looking at is not a good one to learn on.

I would suggest borrowing a 50cc or a 125 and get learning in a big parking lot getting used to manoeuvring it around and getting familiar with clutch, gearshift and brakes. Good learner bikes are the ubiquitous GN Suzuki and the Yamaha Scorpio. The MC22 may be "only" a 250 but it's a performance sports bike. Good once you have your restricted maybe.

[ducatilover]

The MC22 are neat bikes

Ignore the second one, it has had the LHS rotor and caliper taken off (you can see the mounts on the fork), it is however an MC22, albeit a shitty example of one

The black one has been repainted too.
Shop around lots, get some practice on other bikes (like Ed says) before going and buying an MC22.
Be aware you will be able to buy more interesting and suitable bikes with the LAMS law.
But, at 5ft 6 you should fit nicely on an MC22
Don't rule out the MC19, as a learner, you won't be able to ride the difference between them
Or a ZXR250A/C if you're really set on a 4cyl, they do have cam chain issues though

Also, you'll be wanting to spend a fair bit of coin on both those bikes (I'd not even bother going near that "repsol" heap of shit) to freshen them up (fork rebuilds, brake rebuild etc etc)

My advice, buy simple.

[Grantman_]

The MC22 is an excellent first bike. It was my first bike and I've still got it even though I'm on my full license. Plan to keep it for a bit yet. I picked mine up with very little riding experience - 20 minutes max. I rode it the 3-odd hours home no sweat (did have my learners). LAMS doesn't make a smidge of difference unless you want a swathe of mediocre, lardier options (The RVF400 would be tempting however). The MC22 is right on the edge of power to weight permitted anyhow. The MC22 won't limit riding skill development, has plenty of pep to grow into, and are solid, reliable machines. Makes contemporary 250's look like feeble rubbish imo.

[Glowerss]

I can't see anything wrong with an MC22 for a learner, just need to be aware of 2 facts.

You have the rev the holy bejesus out of the thing to get any sort of power. Hill starts and the like would be far more interesting on an MC22 then it would be say a gn250 :p You might look like a bit of a knob screaming the tits off your motor to get away from the lights :P

And because of fact 1, get any early 90s IL4 bike checked out *VERY* thoroughly. Most of them get bought, thrashed to fuck for a year while the owner is on their L/R, then flung off to the next person with little to no maintenance. MC22s are pretty sought after bikes, so if they're going too cheaply theres probably a reason for it. The really good nic ones ive seen go for 4-5k. Just make sure you get it well and truly checked out by somebody knowledgeable before buying.

Just take it slow. Practice practice practice, and after you buy your bike pay to get some 1 on 1 training from any of the billions of rider training people in Auckland. Great for getting your confidence up and may save your life one day.

Dont forget to save some money for proper gear as well :D

[ducatilover]

I can't see anything wrong with an MC22 for a learner, just need to be aware of 2 facts.

You have the rev the holy bejesus out of the thing to get any sort of power. Hill starts and the like would be far more interesting on an MC22 then it would be say a gn250 :p You might look like a bit of a knob screaming the tits off your motor to get away from the lights :P

And because of fact 1, get any early 90s IL4 bike checked out *VERY* thoroughly. Most of them get bought, thrashed to fuck for a year while the owner is on their L/R, then flung off to the next person with little to no maintenance. MC22s are pretty sought after bikes, so if they're going too cheaply theres probably a reason for it. The really good nic ones ive seen go for 4-5k. Just make sure you get it well and truly checked out by somebody knowledgeable before buying.

Just take it slow. Practice practice practice, and after you buy your bike pay to get some 1 on 1 training from any of the billions of rider training people in Auckland. Great for getting your confidence up and may save your life one day.

Dont forget to save some money for proper gear as well :D
Interesting fact, the MC22 makes more power/torque over the whole rev range than the GN. ;) They get a long just fine

The really good ones rarely sell for the asking price too.

[Glowerss]

Interesting fact, the MC22 makes more power/torque over the whole rev range than the GN. ;) They get a long just fine

The really good ones rarely sell for the asking price too.

No shit? I've always heard the 250 IL4s (particularly the CBRs) need to be spun up a lot to get em going. Particularly from a standstill. My Scorpio even with my fat 110kg ass on it pulled right from 1500 RPM without a problem. In fact my old scorpio pulled harder between 1500-4k then my 400 does :2thumbsup

Learn something new everyday!

[Lozza2442]

Hi there everyone,I'm a newbie here.I joined up ages ago but I am back again.
I've decided it's time to learn to ride a bike,everytime I see someone on a bike,I feel so bad because I have always wanted to ride a bike.But never made the effort to.

I have no experience riding one:( But I have been doing a lot of research and decided I want a honda CBR MC22 to learn on.I am a quick learner and am very determined to fulfil this little bike-riding dream.
I am 5'6,69kgs and of slim to medium build so I want a light bike with good handling.

I've been looking on trademe and found two bikes that I'll be learning on.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=489601515

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=495854003

Question,does it seem like the second bike has a single brake disc on the front?I know MC22s have two.

And does anyone know anyone who can help me check the bikes out?I have no knowledge of anything about bikes and I cannot test ride out without a license. I want to buy a bike and get my learners etc before the new law comes out.

Thanks.

Where in Auckland are you mate?

[ducatilover]

No shit? I've always heard the 250 IL4s (particularly the CBRs) need to be spun up a lot to get em going. Particularly from a standstill. My Scorpio even with my fat 110kg ass on it pulled right from 1500 RPM without a problem. In fact my old scorpio pulled harder between 1500-4k then my 400 does :2thumbsup

Learn something new everyday!

Not really. People pnly say that because they feel smooth and less peppy down low. I can ride an MC22 and it'll pull cleanly from 2000rpm in 6th happily.
If you want easy to ride and as much torque as you can get, buy a VT250 Spada. Makes a mighty 28nm, a whole 24nm of that from 3000rpm (that's what mine managed in standard form on the dyno.)
The reason your Scorp will pull better is likely the gearing, or your 400 is horrible lol

[Glowerss]

Not really. People pnly say that because they feel smooth and less peppy down low. I can ride an MC22 and it'll pull cleanly from 2000rpm in 6th happily.
If you want easy to ride and as much torque as you can get, buy a VT250 Spada. Makes a mighty 28nm, a whole 24nm of that from 3000rpm (that's what mine managed in standard form on the dyno.)
The reason your Scorp will pull better is likely the gearing, or your 400 is horrible lol

Bit of both I reckon :D Interesting to know either way, cheers sir.

[zique]

The MC22 are neat bikes

Ignore the second one, it has had the LHS rotor and caliper taken off (you can see the mounts on the fork), it is however an MC22, albeit a shitty example of one

The black one has been repainted too.
Shop around lots, get some practice on other bikes (like Ed says) before going and buying an MC22.
Be aware you will be able to buy more interesting and suitable bikes with the LAMS law.
But, at 5ft 6 you should fit nicely on an MC22
Don't rule out the MC19, as a learner, you won't be able to ride the difference between them
Or a ZXR250A/C if you're really set on a 4cyl, they do have cam chain issues though

Also, you'll be wanting to spend a fair bit of coin on both those bikes (I'd not even bother going near that "repsol" heap of shit) to freshen them up (fork rebuilds, brake rebuild etc etc)

My advice, buy simple.

Thanks for that clarification,Ducatilover,I was wondering why it only had one rotor for a MC22.I'll have to admit,that repsol MC22 was my first choice bike to get.Largely because of the color scheme,it would be more visible on the road for car-drivers since I've heard horror stories from guys with motor-bikes with drivers not seeing them.
Just wondering if the MC22 twin rotors would have better braking than the MC19 single rotor?
If there isn't much difference,I'll look into MC19s.I have seen a few on trademe for sale.

I was set on getting a Honda CBR250 because I plan to keep it for a few more years.There's a very low chance I will upgrade to a 400 or 600cc bike in the far future.


Where in Auckland are you mate?

I am in Otahuhu mate,just moved here from East Auckland.

I guess the search is still on for a bike,I was contemplating getting a honda cbr 125 today but still can't decide.My brother just got a NSR and he said it's scary fast.Thats the second NSR the family has had haha.

Btw thanks guys for the replies.I greatly appreciate you all taking the time to reply and help out a future motorbike rider:)

[ducatilover]

There's a fierce debate about the brakes every time it gets mentioned lol

My view (I've done heaps of kms on both models)
The MC22 stops better.
But, the MC19 can stop pretty hastily too if you need it to, not exactly an issue.
If you were on a track (on a 250? derp) the MC22 has the advantage, in the real world, the one that looks pretty is best.

For myself, I like how the 22 rides more than the 19.

[zique]

My understanding is twin rotors would stop a lot better than one single one.And the brake pads would not wear out as much as a single one as it would have to handle the brunt of the braking.Am I right?
Reason I ask is because,unfortunately I had an accident some months ago in my car and the brakes locked up in the wet.So braking on a bike is very important to me now.I know it's different forms of transportation but I want to be safe on the road.
Btw,did I mention,I'd want to be doing some track work when my confidence is bike riding is up.

[ducatilover]

My understanding is twin rotors would stop a lot better than one single one.And the brake pads would not wear out as much as a single one as it would have to handle the brunt of the braking.Am I right?
Reason I ask is because,unfortunately I had an accident some months ago in my car and the brakes locked up in the wet.So braking on a bike is very important to me now.I know it's different forms of transportation but I want to be safe on the road.
Btw,did I mention,I'd want to be doing some track work when my confidence is bike riding is up.

You're on the right course, but, don't forget the MC19 is cheaper to do a brake overhaul on ;)
At the age of the 19/22s, they're gonna be wanting new disks soon (measure them, min thickness is 3.5mm) and that isn't cheap ($300 for an MC22)

The biggest benefit with the MC22 brakes is better feel and initial bite compared to the MC19, both are capable of locking up in panic stops

[mossy1200]

My understanding is twin rotors would stop a lot better than one single one.And the brake pads would not wear out as much as a single one as it would have to handle the brunt of the braking.Am I right?
Reason I ask is because,unfortunately I had an accident some months ago in my car and the brakes locked up in the wet.So braking on a bike is very important to me now.I know it's different forms of transportation but I want to be safe on the road.
Btw,did I mention,I'd want to be doing some track work when my confidence is bike riding is up.

Single 290-300mm disc is plenty for a 250 or 2 times 220mm+

Bigger disc means more torque braking power per wheel rotation.

[Oblivion]

A point here though is that a tidy MC19 is better than a shitpot MC22.

Don't be dragged in getting a MC22 if you know that its going to be in poor condition. Even if its not teh bike that you want, its damn near close enough.

[mossy1200]

No shit? I've always heard the 250 IL4s (particularly the CBRs) need to be spun up a lot to get em going. Particularly from a standstill. My Scorpio even with my fat 110kg ass on it pulled right from 1500 RPM without a problem. In fact my old scorpio pulled harder between 1500-4k then my 400 does :2thumbsup

Learn something new everyday!

Apples and Pears

mc22 first gear is most likely equals gn 3rd gear.
Try starting the gn in 3rd and you will need to rev it and ride the clutch.

you cant compair a 170click close ratio gearbox to a 120click cruiser gear ratio.

[Subike]

Hi there everyone,I'm a newbie here.I joined up ages ago but I am back again.
I've decided it's time to learn to ride a bike,everytime I see someone on a bike,I feel so bad because I have always wanted to ride a bike.But never made the effort to.

I have no experience riding one:( But I have been doing a lot of research and decided I want a honda CBR MC22 to learn on.I am a quick learner and am very determined to fulfil this little bike-riding dream.
I am 5'6,69kgs and of slim to medium build so I want a light bike with good handling.

I've been looking on trademe and found two bikes that I'll be learning on.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=489601515

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=495854003

Question,does it seem like the second bike has a single brake disc on the front?I know MC22s have two.

And does anyone know anyone who can help me check the bikes out?I have no knowledge of anything about bikes and I cannot test ride out without a license. I want to buy a bike and get my learners etc before the new law comes out.

Thanks.

Dont be in such a hurry to die young fella

you state you have never ridden a bike

are wanting to buy a style of bike that will not be very forgiving to learn on

you live in a high density vehicle environment

you are trying to beat the onset of a law change designed to make me safer on the road from persons like yourself with no experience.

buy something safe to learn on, as suggested by many, a gn250, a 225 scorpio, it you want to live to see xmass without injury

[zique]

Wow,seems like I need to make a pros and cons list for the MC19 and MC22.
Thanks for the specs Mossy1200.Glad to hear the single rotor is bigger so would work almost as good as twin smaller rotors in a heavy braking situation (not that I plan to do any of that in the near future).
Has anyone ridden the Honda CBR125? It is a step down and would be slower but is it fast enough to get up to speed fast enough when going onto the motorway?Once I am comfortable riding,I'll be riding my bike to work which means taking the motorway.

[mossy1200]

A point here though is that a tidy MC19 is better than a shitpot MC22.

Don't be dragged in getting a MC22 if you know that its going to be in poor condition. Even if its not teh bike that you want, its damn near close enough.

+1 to old

Get a hornet or low km bandit or newer 250 with less power and more life left in it.
86-95 250 normally equals speedo disco,boy raced,droped and crashed alot,poor maintence,dead suspension and alot of wear in bushes bearings,a motor that could blow tomorrow and so on.

[ducatilover]

Hornet is the best naked 250 (except the Spada, but I'll leave my biased opinion out) you can buy.

The MC22 has 296mm brakes.
The MC19 has a single 310mm unit, same as the VT250/VTR250
The MC22 obviously has a lot more room for getting rid of heat

Have a look/sit on Hornets.
Same engine as the '93 onwards MC22, the 40hp unit, very reliable.
Great looking too, big bike looks!

[zique]

Hi there Subike.I wish I was a young fella but I am 32 years old.I've had my wild years in my sport cars behind me so I am more safety conscious now while trying to live out a dream.
I can understand the law change and I don't intend to learn on a public road with high traffic.I live down a street thats very quiet at night and the drive-way is long enough to learn braking at low speeds.
The last thing I wish to do is present a danger to myself or anyone else on the road.

I wish I could say I'd a GN or Scorpio but I am someone who finds it hard to drive or ride something that doesn't particularly inspire or make me happy and excited to ride it.I've fallen for honda cbr,sadly.I love the older bikes better as I grew up watching Wayne Gardner and Mick Doohan racing to victory.
As I said before I've been contemplating getting a CBR125 if I have to.

[ducatilover]

Actually, fuck all of them, get the RVF400R. Best performance bike you can ride after the LAMS change, end of story.
Best looking/sounding/resale/fastest/brakes/handling/penis value

[Grantman_]

Wow,seems like I need to make a pros and cons list for the MC19 and MC22.
Thanks for the specs Mossy1200.Glad to hear the single rotor is bigger so would work almost as good as twin smaller rotors in a heavy braking situation (not that I plan to do any of that in the near future).
Has anyone ridden the Honda CBR125? It is a step down and would be slower but is it fast enough to get up to speed fast enough when going onto the motorway?Once I am comfortable riding,I'll be riding my bike to work which means taking the motorway.

I rode a cbr125 very briefly in order to get the feel of road riding in preparation for buying and riding home an MC22. I pretty much outgrew it in minutes. That's with hardly any riding experience so it says a heck of a lot. It's a commuter nugget.

[Subike]

Hi there Subike.I wish I was a young fella but I am 32 years old.I've had my wild years in my sport cars behind me so I am more safety conscious now while trying to live out a dream.
I can understand the law change and I don't intend to learn on a public road with high traffic.I live down a street thats very quiet at night and the drive-way is long enough to learn braking at low speeds.
The last thing I wish to do is present a danger to myself or anyone else on the road.

I wish I could say I'd a GN or Scorpio but I am someone who finds it hard to drive or ride something that doesn't particularly inspire or make me happy and excited to ride it.I've fallen for honda cbr,sadly.I love the older bikes better as I grew up watching Wayne Gardner and Mick Doohan racing to victory.
As I said before I've been contemplating getting a CBR125 if I have to.

I can appreciate rage young fella lol, Im 55
Wayne Gardner and Nick Doonan had to qualify to race in those races you saw them in
I doubt if they did that qualifying after having 6 mths riding experience.
There is no such thing as an empty street of a quiet road, unless its a race track
You can never ever tell when somebody else decide the same as you to practice on a quiet street..

I too have driven sport cars and performance cars, and will say, the difference between them and a bike is more them most may think.
You can drive safely at as little as %60 concentration in a car, try that on a bike you are dead!

Your last statement about the cbr125 is probably more realistic.

[Katman]

I rode a cbr125 very briefly in order to get the feel of road riding in preparation for buying and riding home an MC22. I pretty much outgrew it in minutes. That's with hardly any riding experience so it says a heck of a lot. It's a commuter nugget.

You're hardly a glowing example of sense and sensibility though, are you?

[mossy1200]

Dont get a 125 or 150 if you want more than a get to work bike. They arnt bad bikes to own but if you want a good ride in the weekend out of town get a newer 2 cylinder 250 or a year approx 2000-2005 30-40 hp naked inline 4 that hasnt been riden by 15 Rossi wanna Bezers.

Hornet (1 )
Bandit (2 )
Ninja 2 cylinder (3 )

Would be my order of choice for 2.5k to 3.5k range for round town and out of town plus weekend fun.

Fxr150,Cbr125 for in town bike and go to work bike

Failing that buy the cheapist 250 with a warrent and rego you can find to ride and recover your coin later in October to get a bigger bike on the LAMs law change. That would give you something you can learn on and not risk much loss to get some experience to buy a 400-650 off the LAMs list later.

[zique]

55 years old and still riding bikes,the love in you for bikes must be really strong:)
You are right about the two great Aussie riders,I know their skills weren't honed in a few months,it tooks many many years.Riding a bike to its extreme limits is more than an art it seems
I have psyched myself up for the total concentration I would need when I am riding a bike.There's no shell (like a car) to protect me from anything and I know there's only so much protection my gear will provide me.
I'll look into the 125cc bikes or trial out a gn250.



Actually, fuck all of them, get the RVF400R. Best performance bike you can ride after the LAMS change, end of story.
Best looking/sounding/resale/fastest/brakes/handling/penis value

Haha,very tempting! I just googled that bike and oh wow!! Nothing on trademe though:(
Just wondering if such a bike would be just as thrashed and abused as a MC19 or MC22.

[ducatilover]

Haha,very tempting! I just googled that bike and oh wow!! Nothing on trademe though:(
Just wondering if such a bike would be just as thrashed and abused as a MC19 or MC22.

I'd put more faith in a tidy RVF than a CBR. The RVF is not a leaner bike currently, it is a bike ridden by chaps who love bikes, 99% of them are well maintained and there is huge amounts of info on them on the net.
However, a Hornet is probably more suitable, but, buy whatever floats yer boat most, it's not me that has to be happy with what you ride/how you ride

[Subike]

At 55 I,m still young, young enough to be the son of one of our local riders who at 83 has just bought himself an 883 Sportster....

And got a speeding ticket on it when going to the greymouth races from Christchurch this year.

But i got here by riding little bikes when i was young...fuckin slow little bikes.

[zique]

Dont get a 125 or 150 if you want more than a get to work bike. They arnt bad bikes to own but if you want a good ride in the weekend out of town get a newer 2 cylinder 250 or a year approx 2000-2005 30-40 hp naked inline 4 that hasnt been riden by 15 Rossi wanna Bezers.

Hornet (1 )
Bandit (2 )
Ninja 2 cylinder (3 )

Would be my order of choice for 2.5k to 3.5k range for round town and out of town plus weekend fun.

Fxr150,Cbr125 for in town bike and go to work bike

Failing that buy the cheapist 250 with a warrent and rego you can find to ride and recover your coin later in October to get a bigger bike on the LAMs law change. That would give you something you can learn on and not risk much loss to get some experience to buy a 400-650 off the LAMs list later.


Aren't the newer 250cc bikes heavier than the older ones?Reason I ask is because I have a back problem and if my bike did fall,I know it would be a bit of a struggle lifiting it up.
Wow,seems like I got so many things to factor in.

I wish I could choose your last option but I only want to buy a bike once and keep it for a long while.So basically I shall be learning on it then using it for work and riding on weekends and the odd track day in the future when my riding skills are very good.

[mossy1200]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-500010458.htm

This ninja is good value, 1 owner only 2009. May be a little above your budget at 4k

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-500831057.htm

[mossy1200]

Aren't the newer 250cc bikes heavier than the older ones?Reason I ask is because I have a back problem and if my bike did fall,I know it would be a bit of a struggle lifiting it up.
Wow,seems like I got so many things to factor in.

I wish I could choose your last option but I only want to buy a bike once and keep it for a long while.So basically I shall be learning on it then using it for work and riding on weekends and the odd track day in the future when my riding skills are very good.


Best bet track wise is buy a road bike and only ride it on the road. Get a track bike later only for the track or build a bucket bike to race locally.

A road 250 wont be much fun at Manfield anyway. te track is a bit to long for a road legal 250 and to much damage risk involved.Bucket racers start at 500 odd dollars and would be a good way to start racing bikes. Small bike plus tight track equals more fun than smallish bike on 3-4km track(my opiniuon)

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=499680274


Little bike little track-------road bike-------bigger track bike for bigger track

[ducatilover]

That Hornet has the wrong speedo/dash and looks neglected (corrosion everywhere)
Plenty more around for that money
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-500940670.htm
Worth a shot, may get it for a wee bit less.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-500940992.htm
Another possibly good deal, decent rubber on it too.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-498762403.htm
worth a gander

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-492748563.htm
I think this is a KB bike?

Than EX250 is near-ish to me, I may be able to check it out, looks very tidy.

[GrayWolf]

Aren't the newer 250cc bikes heavier than the older ones?Reason I ask is because I have a back problem and if my bike did fall,I know it would be a bit of a struggle lifiting it up.
Wow,seems like I got so many things to factor in.

I wish I could choose your last option but I only want to buy a bike once and keep it for a long while.So basically I shall be learning on it then using it for work and riding on weekends and the odd track day in the future when my riding skills are very good.

I wish I could say I'd a GN or Scorpio but I am someone who finds it hard to drive or ride something that doesn't particularly inspire or make me happy and excited to ride it.I've fallen for honda cbr,sadly.I love the older bikes better as I grew up watching Wayne Gardner and Mick Doohan racing to victory.



Well I'm another GRUMPY OLD BASTARD, and if you search my posts, you'll find one I started yesterday,, I dropped a bike after well over 20yrs since the last time... And like some others here, I am a 'full time' Motorcyclist, and have been since 16yrs old.
I've read your posts and the replies.... If you are determined to 'go for it' no one is going to stop you... however... There's a reason us old bastards recommend GN's, Scorpio's and the 250 twins V or parallel.
Look I'll come at this from the old farts perspective, and one of them that survived (London) as a learner in the days of, buy it, slap plates on it, ride it out the shop door, school of learning to ride. Having to be 'inspired' is going to kill or injure you. It took just a split second' of dropping full attention, and I ended up on my arse. You 'locked' up the brakes on your car.. I am not even going to sugest it was due to 'bad driving' I dont know the circumstances involved... Brakes?? There is a reason over the years the japanese only put a single disc on 250's Even the quick ones like the 250LC, X7 etc.... twin discs are easy to lock up in panic braking, and the likelyhood is you'd end up sitting on your arse, or worse. Sprot 250 (4cl and 2T) are NOT learner bikes.. regardless of what some here will say.... These bikes were produced after the biggest 250 learner market (UK) dropped the limit to 125cc in the early 1980's.. due to bikes like the LC/X7 being too fast. (and they only JUST broke the 160km barrier) A ZZR/Ninja/GPX 250 twin will exceed their top end performance << these are the 'slow bikes'.
You as a car driver have a huge learning curve to climb onto, of that I can guarantee. You in a car have no need to observe drain lids (wet) slight oil patches, the grungey crud at traffic lights, wet white lines when braking, rough surface on the road, tar snakes. patches of tar with no 'mettle'.. lumps of mud, cow shit on the road. Any one of these WILL put you on your arse.

A 250 sprot bike will out accelerate your sport car to 100kph and some.
Gn's/twins have a more 'gentle' power delivery and are far more 'forgiving' of rider error... the CBR etc are 'riders' bikes.. they were designed for experienced riders, just in NZ you still had the 250 law in force. I've ridden a few of these high performance 250's and to put it in perspective for you... I owned a kawasaki H1A-500 triple... known as the 'widowmaker' due to its 'interesting' handling characteristics and the brutal power band it had... a KR-1 250 kwack is only at most 5-8kph slower on top speed. (H1= 125mph/200 kph) the 250 honda i9s only slightly slower than that.. however, they are peaky regardless of what you get told here, they are low torque high HP for a 250, high revving and need 'riding' proprly to get the best out of them. Ridden even half competently, most performance 250's can outrun, or, give serious trouble to bigger bikes on tight twisty stuff. as has been pointed out, most 'old' 250's will hae been used and abused by a plethora of spotty faced urchins during their lifetime... just loook how many of the 'boys' have old 1990's sooobies that are dented, smoke like a chimney, but still used to the death... same kind of twat who will likely have owned the high power 250's at least once in its lifetime....
Ducatilover suggested a VTR V twin, I'd have to agree it would be a better 'learner' machine... or buy a bloody GN, learn to ride for 6 months then look at a faster 500/600cc machine. In fact something like a GB500 single... a great learner bike... XT660, DR 650, all about as 'fast' as the 250's but more flexible and used by many full licence riders for commuting and distance riding...
EGO will kill you, period. I think someone said it well in 'my' thread... you start to believe you cant do anything wrong, been at it for so long without incident.. and BINGO... how the fuck did that happen?.... when learning your highest concentration is on the TASK of riding and the peripheral information gathering is greatly reduced... and I can assure you, i do drive a car sometimes, the concentration is far less, the mental 'input' for correction, road assessment, road conditon/surface assessment, etc are nowhere near as pronounced as required on a bike.

[Grantman_]

I've ridden at Manfield on the MC22 and it's easily technical enough to enjoy a road going 250 on. Hard to beat the feeling of passing a big bike round the outside. Get cleaned up again on the straights of course. Clearly binning a road bike means complications if you can't ride home, but just join a slow group and work your way up steadily. Pointless getting a dedicated 250cc track bike just for the odd trackday.

[ducatilover]

Gonna say it again, Hornet.
The VT250 Spada (not the VTR) is my personal favourite 4t 250.
The MC22 is the best performance wise with the 3LN3 onwards FZR and ZXRa/b/c/d

The VTR250 is great...but the Spada is better in every way.

Go ride some bloody bikes :lol: then you'll find what you want.
Or just buy a CBR, you're not going to go splat unless you're a dick, and you can go splat on anything. I'd know, I've been splat on a GN250 before.
I've done many ks on the CBRs, know them well and don't see the big scary hype, they aren't very fast in reality.
They have a "soft" power delivery, no big scares and with a whopping 24nm, no issues with skidding the rear on power.
They have the best chassis (along with the ZXR250C/D) you can get in a 250, it's safer in a corner than my GN250s have been.
They have good brakes.

But GrayWolf does have good advice, and I do think you would be better off on a Hornet or VT250/VTR, easier to live with every day

[neels]

I've recently been through the learner process with my son, his first bike was a GSXR250 which is not rated quite as highly as the CBR's but around the same performance, he's sensible enough that he had no dramas riding the thing.

The only thing I did was take him out with my trail bike off road to learn the basics of operating a motorcycle, before heading out on the road on something that will cost a fortune in broken plastic if you drop it on it's side.

[Stevee2]

After about 2 months of looking at every (learner) bike out there I settled on a 250 Hornet. While its was a bit difficult to learn on in the first few months with the 4 cyl I find it heaps of fun and a really reliable runner, only down side is its quite big/ heavy compared to the GN's and smaller bikes but no plastic to crack! The 4cyl's are fast, and it does go well but theres no need to rev the thing out at every gear, I find when I'm driving around town mid rev range is more than enough with the extra on tap just in case.

Disclaimer: I have only ridden a GN250, FXR150 and the Hornet, so not hugely experienced but more recent :)

[zique]

Hi guys,thank you for the awesome replies and the links.You have effectively steered me away from getting a Honda CBR250RR to learn on,so I've deleted them from my watchlist.Just got the two Honda Hornets and a VTR250 on the list,along with the yummy looking Kawasaki Ninja (thanks Mossy1200) however I am thinking it would be the same deal as learning with a CBR250RR.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=500940992

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=500940670

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=501553087

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=500010458

Now I just got to decide which one to get.I'd prefer to get the ones in Auckland but the blue hornet in Welly looks so good,just as well as the red hornet and VTR.
Cant find any Spadas Ducatilover:(

Out of the ones in the list,which one do you think is a better buy and reasons too please so I can shortlist the bikes?

[Stevee2]

If it were me i'd go for the Black Hornet. Lower Km's than the red. Hit buy now! And he delivers free in Akl :2thumbsup

[Katman]

along with the yummy looking Kawasaki Ninja (thanks Mossy1200) however I am thinking it would be the same deal as learning with a CBR250RR.



If your budget can stretch to it the Kawasaki is by far the better value for money.

It's only a two cylinder so isn't in the same category as the CBR and will cost significantly less in servicing and running costs than the other 4 cylinder bikes.

[ducatilover]

The Ninja 250 is only a 33hp twin. So don't worry about it being over the top or anything.
Plastics cost a lot if smashed, but nobody says you have to drop it :D


I would take a look at the red Hornet and the Black one.
The red Hornet has had good $$ spent on quality tyres, this is always nice to see.
Kms aren't a huge issue with these, I've seen many go past 100,000km with regular servicing.

VTRs perform around as well as a Ninja 250 (EX250), I can attest to the longevity of those motors, I had the Spada which was higher powered and 6 speed, but the same basic engine, I got it with 26km on the clock and sold it at 154,000 or thereabouts. Only issue it had was the fuel tap shat out, other than that it was just routine service work :2thumbsup

I'd be asking for someone to check both Hornets over (the red one's prettier :lol:)

I'm not so sure about the overall running costs of a Hornet vs an EX250 though?

[BigAl]

That Vtr looks very good buying for the price, you'd want to get any bike checked out by a dealer preferably.

[nzspokes]

Get a Hornet. Great bikes, reliable and some speed when needed. Not heavy with comfortable position.

[mossy1200]

That Vtr looks very good buying for the price, you'd want to get any bike checked out by a dealer preferably.

My guess at the figure vtr will reach is $2200 to $2400. Its still got 11 days to go but they are a good bike.
The ex ninja 2cylinder is the best buy but could be above budget but im thinking a $3850 offer is a good place to start offering money on that.
The Hornets could be talked down to 2600 odd and are good value at that. Alot less risk than a 45hp boy raced abused older bike for the same figure dollar wise.

The other good thing with all of these is you dont feel the pressure to show off simply because they are cool bikes at moderate speeds unlike the cbrs,zxrs rgvs and so on that sing out if your not racing it your not really riding it.

I had a rg250 for 3 months and then a rg400 and im lucky to not be a statistic. Getting a bike that you enjoy without going fast is a good idea but so is picking one that will ride where you want to take it without working hard to do it.

Really if you want to ride a track later get a dedicated bike for doing it. Drop your road bike and it may be beyond repair very easily. Get a bucket racer or a cheap 400cc race bike when you can do it with cash later.

[darkwolf]

I've got a VTR250 and a ZX6R. I still alternate between the two purely because the VTR is so good in traffic, not having to worry about fairings is a big bonus too and I'd be lying if I said I had learned all I could on that bike. I still find new things to work on.

I did 2,626KM in a week around the South Island in Feb this year on the VTR. I then took it to a training day at Ruapuna and overtook a few bigger bikes (actually, the ZX6R was one of my victims coming outta the carousel, before I'd even dreamed of owning the ZX). The VTR isn't lacking in power or handling that's for certain.

I only found the VTR wanting in a headwind when trying to overtake in 100KPH zones but then I was 105KG at the time.

[zique]

The Ninja 250 is only a 33hp twin. So don't worry about it being over the top or anything.
Plastics cost a lot if smashed, but nobody says you have to drop it :D


I would take a look at the red Hornet and the Black one.
The red Hornet has had good $$ spent on quality tyres, this is always nice to see.
Kms aren't a huge issue with these, I've seen many go past 100,000km with regular servicing.

VTRs perform around as well as a Ninja 250 (EX250), I can attest to the longevity of those motors, I had the Spada which was higher powered and 6 speed, but the same basic engine, I got it with 26km on the clock and sold it at 154,000 or thereabouts. Only issue it had was the fuel tap shat out, other than that it was just routine service work :2thumbsup

I'd be asking for someone to check both Hornets over (the red one's prettier :lol:)

I'm not so sure about the overall running costs of a Hornet vs an EX250 though?


That Ninja sure looked good but the last thing I'd want is buying new plastic.
I never thought to think of little things like that aye but chances are,I would drop the bike sometime and having a scratch on my nice bike is something I'd dislike.

I've had a day to think about things and that red hornet is on the top of my list now:)And not having to worry about plastics or something,if dropped!
Plus the riding position,I think with the hornet,it would be better for my lower back.And later on with more confidence and my full,I'll get a much better bike.Possibly a RVF400R:cool:
I'm on my days off so I might go into Red Baron tomorrow or the day after to look at their bikes and have a sit on them,if I am allowed.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=500940992

Btw with that hornet,can anyone possibly guess what is up with the gauge cluster?As I just saw a comment on it by someone in the comments section and that got me wondering.

[Glowerss]

That Ninja sure looked good but the last thing I'd want is buying new plastic.
I never thought to think of little things like that aye but chances are,I would drop the bike sometime and having a scratch on my nice bike is something I'd dislike.

I've had a day to think about things and that red hornet is on the top of my list now:)And not having to worry about plastics or something,if dropped!
Plus the riding position,I think with the hornet,it would be better for my lower back.And later on with more confidence and my full,I'll get a much better bike.Possibly a RVF400R:cool:
I'm on my days off so I might go into Red Baron tomorrow or the day after to look at their bikes and have a sit on them,if I am allowed.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=500940992

Btw with that hornet,can anyone possibly guess what is up with the gauge cluster?As I just saw a comment on it by someone in the comments section and that got me wondering.

I'm no Hornet expert, but it looks like a standard speedo cluster to me. A lot of em are white background rather then black, but aside from that it looks fairly normal.

I wouldn't worry about the whole plastics and dropping it thing. If you have a stationary drop, the damage to plastics is minimal and unlikely to drop your value much. Particularly things like the ninjas which people sort of expect to have noobie badges of honor. If you're going to drop it at speed, the difference between scratching up fairings and banging up my engine casings :crazy: :crazy: I'd take the fairings any day.

Though as Katman would say if he hasn't already, it's better to just not drop the bike :banana:

End of the day, buy whichever gives you the biggest woodie :headbang:

[ducatilover]

That's not a Hornet speedo/tach.
The Hornet redlines at 16k, but if it works, who cares? I still doubt you'll do much better than a Hornet for the money
I know of a Bandit 250 that'll be coming up for sale soon, could be had under $3k. It's tidy and has recently had a top end rebuild, overhauled carbs and new tyres

[zique]

Having the wrong tacho won't affect resale? Because I would plan to sell the hornet later on to buy something better.

[Katman]

Though as Katman would say if he hasn't already, it's better to just not drop the bike.

Exactly.

There's such a thing as learning at a rate that makes dropping the bike unlikely.

Crashing is not compulsory.

[Subike]

Exactly.

There's such a thing as learning at a rate that makes dropping the bike unlikely.

Crashing is not compulsory.

I have to agree here too
riding within your limits as you learn.
might take a bit longer, but by taking your time, one day you will ride a road and realize, ""gee that was quicker.""
you could not run when you learn t to walk, running came without thought, but after lots of walking practice
Same goes for your riding skills, they will come with lots of practice, then you will find yourself "running" with ease and confidence.

[The_Duke]

+2

Katman & Subike are onto it.

I ride a VT250 as my commuter and it's awesome. Your new list looks all good. :sunny:

Not sure why Grantman's chipping in with track advice for a guy who's never ridden before... :scratch:

[SMOKEU]

I had a great time on my MC19 CBR250R that I used to own. They're nearly bullet proof, and prices are likely to drop even more with the LAMS regulations. They are getting pretty old now though so need a bit more maintenance than the more modern bikes.

[neels]

I had a great time on my MC19 CBR250R that I used to own. They're nearly bullet proof, and prices are likely to drop even more with the LAMS regulations. They are getting pretty old now though so need a bit more maintenance than the more modern bikes.
And most of them have been repeatedly raped by people like SMOKEU ;)

[zique]

I have to agree here too
riding within your limits as you learn.
might take a bit longer, but by taking your time, one day you will ride a road and realize, ""gee that was quicker.""
you could not run when you learn t to walk, running came without thought, but after lots of walking practice
Same goes for your riding skills, they will come with lots of practice, then you will find yourself "running" with ease and confidence.

Nice way of putting it:)
I plan to spend as much time as I can practicing.Can't wait to be a real deal motorcycle rider haha.
As much as I wanted one,CBRs are a no-no for now.I think it's better I start with something more simple,easier and forgiving than upgrade when my skills are much better.

[nzmikey]

I rode 22,000 in 12mths , it has been all over the north island from Waimamaku in Northland to Wellington in the south .

She aint missed a beat & as someone said further up ... as long as they are serviced regularly ( done every 5,000 ) they will last for many 1000's of kms .

So in short enjoy the 250 & learn . With experience comes wisdom . With Skill Comes Confidence ( just dont get it the other way around )

[Grantman_]

Not sure why Grantman's chipping in with track advice for a guy who's never ridden before... :scratch:

read the thread.

[ducatilover]

Crashing is not compulsory.
Oh... Oops :weep: I thought most bins wins?

[The_Duke]

read the thread.

Oh ok..... you mean this one, right?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132965-Progression-of-a-total-motorcycle-noob?highlight=progression+noob

[ducatilover]

Oh ok..... you mean this one, right?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/132965-Progression-of-a-total-motorcycle-noob?highlight=progression+noob
No he means the part in this thread where the OP states they're interested in going to the race track, you one eyed twit :bleh:

[The_Duke]

No he means the part in this thread where the OP states they're interested in going to the race track, you one eyed twit :bleh:

I realise that, champ. Guess I needed a tongue-in-cheek font or something.

I'd be more interested in seeing zique walk before he can run, to be honest. The track's not going anywhere, so let's help him develop some basic skills first.
Grantman got way, way ahead of himself and got burned for it. I'm also wanting the OP to realise that ending up in a hospital bed (or worse...) is a reality if you start treating the road like your personal racetrack.... Grantman's tale is a sober warning to ANY newbie.

If that makes me one-eyed, no worries... I'll get me patch.

....It's got "Ride to Survive" on it.

:scooter:

[Lelitu]

in shopping for a bike, there's the statistics to consider
as well as the feel when you're actually riding the thing.

I wouldn't buy a bike without having at least sat on it
and ideally taken it for a test ride.

went in to get my first bike with a list of 4 bikes to have a look at.

top of the list was a ninja.
sat on it for 5 minutes and realised it was simply too cramped and would never do.

wound up getting the hyosung gt 250(bottom of the list). physically a much bigger bike, it just feels more comfortable
to ride, and has more than enough power for a learner.

[ducatilover]

I realise that, champ. Guess I needed a tongue-in-cheek font or something.

I'd be more interested in seeing zique walk before he can run, to be honest. The track's not going anywhere, so let's help him develop some basic skills first.
Grantman got way, way ahead of himself and got burned for it. I'm also wanting the OP to realise that ending up in a hospital bed (or worse...) is a reality if you start treating the road like your personal racetrack.... Grantman's tale is a sober warning to ANY newbie.

If that makes me one-eyed, no worries... I'll get me patch.

....It's got "Ride to Survive" on it.

:scooter: We are in need of a sarcasm font :lol:
I think he was looking at going to the track "further down the road". But you're certainly right

[zique]

I read that thread some days ago and wow! Grantman is so lucky he is alive! Which is why a CBR is not a good idea for me as I'd be seriously tempted to test the limits of that bike.

[nodrog]

Im sure this place fills up with more retards every day.

[newbie87]

Hi everyone

I am new to this site and also new to riding in nz . I just got my learners and looking for a bike . I have my eyes on kawasaki 400r . As this thread is about learner riders , i thought someone might help me to decide if this is the right choice or not.

Thanks

[GrayWolf]

Hi everyone

I am new to this site and also new to riding in nz . I just got my learners and looking for a bike . I have my eyes on kawasaki 400r . As this thread is about learner riders , i thought someone might help me to decide if this is the right choice or not.

Thanks

650R: 71bhp, 49lb/ft, 204kg/449.5lbs, .35bhp:kg, .24lb/ft:kg
400R: 42bhp, 27lb/ft, 203kg/447.5lbs, .20bhp:kg, .13lb/ft:kg
250R: 30.5bhp, 16lb/ft, 170kg/375lbs, .18bhp:kg, .09lb.ft:kg

http://hellforleathermagazine.com/2010/06/2011-kawasaki-ninja-400r-first-bike-perfection/

from a couple of reviews I just had a read of, if it fits you for style and comfort? Cant see any reason to not go for it...

[Glowerss]

Hi everyone

I am new to this site and also new to riding in nz . I just got my learners and looking for a bike . I have my eyes on kawasaki 400r . As this thread is about learner riders , i thought someone might help me to decide if this is the right choice or not.

Thanks

If you're willing to waste a lot of dosh on one of those, go for it mate. But to be completely honest, you can find a much cheaper, much LIGHTER alternative to a bike that isn't going to hammer you in the wallet. The depreciation on the ninja 400 alone is going to be catastrophic I would think.

Having just started biking not too long ago, I would advise against such a heavy ass bike though. Low speed work and standing still and that sucker is going to be like trying to manhandle a hippo to somebody not used to biking. I spent 2 months on a Scoprio, which is like 130kg completely full of fluids before buying my 400 which is 174 empty. The 400 took weeks to get used to how heavy the fucker was.

The ninja will weigh about the same. While it isn't heavy in the grand scheme of things, it's a lot heavier then most first bikes are. Well over 30kg on the 250 ninja, and the 250 ninja is on the heavy side of beginner bikes as well.

Pick up something like a gn250 or a scorpio would still be my advice. You can use one of those for 2-3 months to get the hang of things and then flick em off on trademe without losing a cent. I sold my scorpio for more then I bought it for. You should have a better idea of what you want in a bike by then anyway.

My 2 cents anyway.

[GrayWolf]

If you're willing to waste a lot of dosh on one of those, go for it mate. But to be completely honest, you can find a much cheaper, much LIGHTER alternative to a bike that isn't going to hammer you in the wallet. The depreciation on the ninja 400 alone is going to be catastrophic I would think.

Having just started biking not too long ago, I would advise against such a heavy ass bike though. Low speed work and standing still and that sucker is going to be like trying to manhandle a hippo to somebody not used to biking. I spent 2 months on a Scoprio, which is like 130kg completely full of fluids before buying my 400 which is 174 empty. The 400 took weeks to get used to how heavy the fucker was.

The ninja will weigh about the same. While it isn't heavy in the grand scheme of things, it's a lot heavier then most first bikes are. Well over 30kg on the 250 ninja, and the 250 ninja is on the heavy side of beginner bikes as well.

Pick up something like a gn250 or a scorpio would still be my advice. You can use one of those for 2-3 months to get the hang of things and then flick em off on trademe without losing a cent. I sold my scorpio for more then I bought it for. You should have a better idea of what you want in a bike by then anyway.

My 2 cents anyway.

I certainly wont argue the cost/depreciation of a 400r, but the weight thing? It's nothing new, our old RD250's etc were all around the 160kilo mark.... and they are all learner legal, we coped with the size and weight.

Model: Yamaha RD 250
Year: 1979
Category: Sport
Rating: 61.7 out of 100. Show full rating and compare with other bikes
Engine and transmission
Displacement: 247.00 ccm (15.07 cubic inches)
Engine type: Twin, two-stroke
Power: 27.00 HP (19.7 kW)) @ 7200 RPM
Top speed: 145.0 km/h (90.1 mph)
Compression: 6.7:1
Bore x stroke: 54.0 x 54.0 mm (2.1 x 2.1 inches)
Fuel control: Membrane
Cooling system: Air
Gearbox: 6-speed
Transmission type,
final drive: Chain
Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels
Front tyre dimensions: 3.00-18
Rear tyre dimensions: 3.50-18
Front brakes: Single disc
Rear brakes: Single disc
Physical measures and capacities
Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 158.0 kg (348.3 pounds)
Fuel capacity: 16.50 litres (4.36 gallons)

[newbie87]

Thanks GrayWolf and Glowerss for your replies , will wait until october to buy it but till then i will keep searching .......

Thanks

[Madness]

Im sure this place fills up with more retards every day.


<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/edFocxTsUKI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
__________

[GrayWolf]

Thanks GrayWolf and Glowerss for your replies , will wait until october to buy it but till then i will keep searching .......

Thanks

As an aside, there is another possibility.. I recently saw an older (1980's) Moto Guzzi 650 Lario... now I know these are only 50odd BHP.... I wonder if those or even the old 500 Guzzi/Ducati V's would be eligble??

[ducatilover]

As an aside, there is another possibility.. I recently saw an older (1980's) Moto Guzzi 650 Lario... now I know these are only 50odd BHP.... I wonder if those or even the old 500 Guzzi/Ducati V's would be eligble??
One would expect/hope so.
The Duke 400SS/monster should be allowed, possibly the 600 on a stretch (they're bloody gutless)
Both would be awesome learner bikes

[Glowerss]

One would expect/hope so.
The Duke 400SS/monster should be allowed, possibly the 600 on a stretch (they're bloody gutless)
Both would be awesome learner bikes

Be a stellar start to a career as a motorcycle mechanic too :killingme

[ducatilover]

Be a stellar start to a career as a motorcycle mechanic too :killingme I'll bet you a box of beer that my Kawasaki has had more electrical issues in the 4000km I've
put on it than any modern Ducati :lol: but, you're right.