Sure, It's off topic but which Jap car brand is the crappest?

[koba]

Talking about average mans aged imports rather than flash new cars...

[Akzle]

mitsis fkn win. I've had half a doz. Starting with 84 sigma, 4g..something. Rwd.
incl couple magpies (6g73,t) and me L2 ute, 89, which will still tow most things. Backwards. (4g54)

[Subike]

i operated a business for 10 years removed fucked cars from people properties.
in that time I removed and recycled as scrap over 17,000 vehicles.
Sure, there were worse cars than the Mitsubishi over time,
but the youngest, lowest mileage cars were Mitsubishi if I were to point the finger at a brand as a whole.
One of the most dangerous cars to crash in? Ford Escort! Reasons need a page to explain.
The worst interiors? Izuzu Piazza, Vibrated to bits as you drove them. the plastics became brittle in the NZ sun.
Worst for rust? 70's - 80's Toyota, but that was an assembly problem peculiar to NZ cars assembled here in that time. well documented.
Worst suspensions? Ford cortina, MK3-4-5, ripped the bushings right out of the chassis. Front sub assembly use to "walk" as you drove.
But the Mitsubishi's? Just plane wore out fast as, gearbox's, cylinder heads, C V joints, seats, window winding mecs, door hinges.....and more. Dont let me start on the electrics....
Early Subaru, were bad for cylinder head faults after being serviced, but that was an assembly fault in most from service people who did not understand the small trick that made them live.
Now this information was gathered on cars aged between 1960 and 2004, when I stopped operation.
So I have no comment upon vehicles made after that time.
All time favorite oil droppers, ....anything BMC.....

[Geeen]

There is a reason they're called MyBitAShitty

[ducatilover]

Every brand has its lemons.
Unfortunately Mitsi seems to have more than most :bleh:
I've had two Mitsis, had a great run from each. I've had to work on more than I can remember though, can't stand them.

[steve_t]

Had 3 different mates have fires start in their stock standard Mitsi Lancer cars due to electrical faults. One started in the window switchgear on the door interior!

[rustic101]

Well not sure about the Mitiz cars but my Mitiz L200 double cab sport pack ute is a real diamond.
In the 12 years I've owned her I've only had to change the tyres, rear bushes in the springs and topped up the oil
I treat her like a dog and she is as rough as guts and (touch wood) never misses a beat. Its a 2wd but goes places 4wd's don't.

[sinned]

Over the years I have had a few cars including 3 Mitsubushi. All were crap. I had a new V3000 and about a year into its life it lost bottom end torque - so much it would bog in the lower auto gears on hills. If it was canned thru the gears it went okay. So back to Mits garage with this complaint. Nothing wrong I was told and they refused to put it on a dyno to check it out. Then another year later I got a recall notice for valve seat regression - it went well after that. Then as I was a slow learner got a Mitsu Diamanta - too high geared, terrible handling ( under steer). At the same time I had a Mits Mirage - another heap of shit.

Most reliable cars I have owned - Toyota - just a bit boring, but that is why I have a motorcycle.

[Yow Ling]

I had a mitsi L200 triton, the roof caved in the first time I rolled it

[gav]

I had a mitsi L200 triton, the roof caved in the first time I rolled it
Was it any better on the 2nd and 3rd attempt?

[Timber020]

Mitz by a country mile. people buy them new because they look at the specs and think they will save the $ on not buying a better brand. The choice of accountants and budget fleet buyers and people who dont know better.
Its like they know how to build a good machine but cut all the corners they can at the execution

[AllanB]

The electronics in all the new ones are a possible long term worry, I have heard of some BMW's having problems.


I have a 02 NZ new Galant - had a clean 100,000 plus run out of it so far. Mind you it is a pretty simple twin cam 2l and manual gearbox without too many stupid electrics. Frankly I'd be careful of the bells and all electronics on the imports.

[Edbear]

Most Jap imports are dodgy and unreliable. Most common to be seen dead on the side of the road are Mitsubishi's, always an import.

However all second hand imports are prone to failures, ask your local Toyota service centre about Lexus imports from Hong Kong or most garages about Toyota turbo diesels esp the Surf. My Bro- in- Law was buying Mitsi 2500 turbo diesel engines and transplanting them into Surfs as they were more reliable!

Any NZ new vehicle is almost certain to be a better buy than a 2nd hand Jap import. Another mate bought a Mitsi 380 new and has had a great run out of it, it's a very nice car and much better than a Commodore.

You can't beat regular servicing from new and buy from someone you can trust. Sure it may be harder to find but you wear the consequences of buying a dud.

[joan of arc]

Anyone have comments about the Mercedes, Volvo, other "high class" european imports that seem to be easy to pick up at very reasonable prices?

[Edbear]

Just as bad but more expensive when they break. Steer clear the Euro's are worse than the Japs. Anything and everything electric can and will die an expensive death, just ask Classic_Z he is a Euro specialist.

[James Deuce]

Anyone have comments about the Mercedes, Volvo, other "high class" european imports that seem to be easy to pick up at very reasonable prices?

Yes. See a lot of them on the side of the motorway when it rains a lot. Typically not serviced properly. Japanese cars are designed to run with minimal intervention for a long time. European cars require cambelt, valve, gasket, injectors, cams, bushes, etc, replaced on a strict schedule. Do that and they run beautifully for a long time. Ignore it and they simply stop working at some point. Euros like their cars to perform as well at 300,00kms as they do at 0kms. Japanese will be happy if you get to and from work reliably but have lost 25 percent of your horses along the way.

[SVboy]

Anyone have comments about the Mercedes, Volvo, other "high class" european imports that seem to be easy to pick up at very reasonable prices?

The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy! Except for the DELICA 4WD 2.3 diesel turbo. OMG! How the garage owners must have laughed and rubbed their hands!

[SVboy]

and of course the Mazda 626 Supercharged diesel, a great concept totally obilterated by the reality........

[SVboy]

and as to the poor fools buying nz new tiny euro turbo diesels on the back of reports of glowing fuel economy and performance-let us just wait a [very] few years as tales of woe descend. While we I offer the VW Polio Auto...anyone anyone?

[James Deuce]

The only reason we'll have tales of woe with the small Euro-diesels is because of the liquid volcanic ash Kiwis call diesel.

[Indiana_Jones]

Datsun 120Y?

-Indy

[James Deuce]

Awesome car. There's a reason they called the 4 Door a "Cherry". There's a lot of people out there who were introduced to their ovum in the late '70s, early '80s in a 120Y Cherry.

[SMOKEU]

I used to have a GTI-R. It was a nice car to drive when it was running properly (which wasn't often), had the reliability of a politician's promise, and was very cheap to run if you owned an oil refinery, otherwise the fuel bill would leave me in tears.

[Road kill]

A mechanic mate of mine once told me any make that starts with an M would be crap.
Unfortunately he told me this after I'd bought a Mitsubushi that went on to costs me thousands before I sold it to some other poor fool.
He really had a thing against Mercedes for some reason.

[scumdog]

All time favorite oil droppers, ....anything BMC.....

My one has failed to live up to expectations - my drive-way is somewhat devoid of oil-drops!!:devil2:

[Indiana_Jones]

My one has failed to live up to expectations - my drive-way is somewhat devoid of oil-drops!!:devil2:

It must be broken!

Mine only has a few drops come out over a few weeks so I'm pretty happy :niceone:

-Indy

[Edbear]

My one has failed to live up to expectations - my drive-way is somewhat devoid of oil-drops!!:devil2:

You can fix that...


It must be broken!

Mine only has a few drops come out over a few weeks so I'm pretty happy :niceone:

-Indy

Our old '66 Mk1 had the same problem if you were a bit careless on oil top ups.

[ducatilover]

Just as bad but more expensive when they break. Steer clear the Euro's are worse than the Japs. Anything and everything electric can and will die an expensive death, just ask Classic_Z he is a Euro specialist.

My BMWs have all been reliable, we've had a few of them in the family. You just have to know what you're looking for. :2thumbsup and no, they are not expensive to fix, in fact they're extremely cheap.

Anyone have comments about the Mercedes, Volvo, other "high class" european imports that seem to be easy to pick up at very reasonable prices?
Buy only if you know what you're looking for, with any older car, you have to be very careful.

[onearmedbandit]

Most Jap imports are dodgy and unreliable. Most common to be seen dead on the side of the road are Mitsubishi's, always an import.

However all second hand imports are prone to failures, ask your local Toyota service centre about Lexus imports from Hong Kong or most garages about Toyota turbo diesels esp the Surf. My Bro- in- Law was buying Mitsi 2500 turbo diesel engines and transplanting them into Surfs as they were more reliable!

Any NZ new vehicle is almost certain to be a better buy than a 2nd hand Jap import. Another mate bought a Mitsi 380 new and has had a great run out of it, it's a very nice car and much better than a Commodore.

You can't beat regular servicing from new and buy from someone you can trust. Sure it may be harder to find but you wear the consequences of buying a dud.

My god dear man, could you be any more wrong? Most Japanese imports are dodgy and unreliable? Really. What do you base this on? I'm in the industry, I sell them (along with NZ new) and we have a very small failure rate. Your next statement, 'all second imports are prone to failure', once again completely inaccurate. Completely. If you want to make it somewhat accurate, 'all cars are prone to failure'. Imports from Hong Kong are notoriously unreliable, but that's got a lot to do with the humidity playing havoc with the electrics. Once again I have first hand experience in this.

'Any' NZ new car is almost certain to be a better buy than a 2nd hand Japanese import? Total codswallop. There are numerous cases of recalls or known issues with NZ new vehicles. Plenty of course are great cars. But I've had issues with plenty of NZ new vehicles. And Kiwi's are terrible at servicing their cars. With about 80% of our imports we get detailed Japanese service history. When I'm trading a car from a Kiwi, be it an import or NZ new, most people when asked couldn't tell you the last time their car was serviced, let alone have records. Sometimes you may find a service sticker on the windshield, about 8mths and 10,000ks past its due date. At a yard I worked at we traded a 2yr old HSV travelled 50,000km. Ran a bearing before we got it because it still had the fricking running-in oil in it.



The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy!

Another totally incorrect statement. The majority of our stock is European, BMW, Merc, Audi, Peugeot, Citreon etc. We have excellent success with these vehicles, good enough to put a comprehensive 6mth warranty on them. We all drive Euro's, my current BMW I've put 20,000km on and all I've done is service it. Yes they are more costly to repair than a Japanese car, but they are better cars. I'd rather have my family in a '04 Audi A4 wagon with 8 air-bags, electronic brake distribution, emergency braking detection and a host of other features for $20,000 than a same year Caldina/Atenza/Legacy with two air bags and ABS as the highlight of its safety features for $16k. Add to that a better ride and quite often better economy, and similar reliability it's a no brainer.

[onearmedbandit]

I will add though, a lot of problems we do see are fuel related. Namely 91. The stories I've heard about that fuel from people in the know, well I wouldn't run it in my lawn mower. We recommend 95, and have seen a reduction in 'check engine' lights coming on. Don't forget in Japan they run higher quality and octane fuel than we do, and a lot of engines do not like our fuel. Especially Mitsubishi GDi's. We had an instance of a guy getting check engine lights coming on and very poor economy. Finally got it out of him he was running 91. Fuel economy back to where it should be and no more warning lights, all from changing back to 95.

[Pussy]

Awesome car. There's a reason they called the 4 Door a "Cherry". There's a lot of people out there who were introduced to their ovum in the late '70s, early '80s in a 120Y Cherry.

The Cherry was the 100A model.. and front wheel drive too I think.

[James Deuce]

Had a 4 Door 120Y Cherry for a bit. So did my girlfriend's Dad. He worked for Ford. I'm not telling any more. There was a 120A Cherry Coupe with the same front end styling as the four door.

[Flip]

I have never owned a jap car, thank god. But work got me a Toyota lowlux, what a POS! Fucking crap injectors, $4k a pop and the third set was failing when I gave it back. If I had paid my money for the car I would have taken Toyota to court. I have a series landrover that was more reilyable.

[Edbear]

I will add though, a lot of problems we do see are fuel related. Namely 91. The stories I've heard about that fuel from people in the know, well I wouldn't run it in my lawn mower. We recommend 95, and have seen a reduction in 'check engine' lights coming on. Don't forget in Japan they run higher quality and octane fuel than we do, and a lot of engines do not like our fuel. Especially Mitsubishi GDi's. We had an instance of a guy getting check engine lights coming on and very poor economy. Finally got it out of him he was running 91. Fuel economy back to where it should be and no more warning lights, all from changing back to 95.

Your posts are from a man who knows what he is doing and sells cars well chosen and presented. Your comments about the problems you do see affirm my comments in general. Far too long have far too many dealers ripped off buyers with dodgy imports. It is not easy to find a reliable dealer though with the publicity some are getting it may improve when customers become more wary and know better what to look for.

It is certainly down to proper servicing and choosing stock that has the history you look for. My daughter's husband very thoroughly checked out several cars before choosing a very nice Honda. Odysee. They have had several issues that should not have occurred had it been represented honestly, of course in that case the dealer wouldn't have sold it.

I have had dozens of vehicles over the years and the only completely reliable car was our '99 Nissan Pulsar which we bought new and sold to buy the Kizashi. After 12 years and nearly 200,000km it was still "as new". Every Jap import had issues they shouldn't have had with my Nissan Caravan diesel being the most reliable.

Our MX5 is so far proving reliable and fun but we don't do a lot of miles in it, being a fine weather toy.

[Edbear]

The Cherry was the 100A model.. and front wheel drive too I think.

My sister had a 100A Cherry. She loved it!

[Flip]

Crowe (wife) has a 3 door 98 Suzuki Grand Vatara, we brought it new, its been 100% simply perfect. Always outside, only oil and filters.

[steve_t]

Our MX5 is so far proving reliable and fun but we don't do a lot of miles in it, being a fine weather toy.

Fine weather is even more of a reason to be on the bike! :niceone:

[Edbear]

Fine weather is even more of a reason to be on the bike! :niceone:

You are quite correct of course and it still hurts not to ride!

[jafar]

I had a diamante 3.5 wagon for 9 years, only time I was ever left on the side of the road was when the water pump packed up. That was @ 230,000 k . I had it towed to the local Mitsi dealer & they had the pump changed over, cam belt done & back on the road in under 24 hours. Roger Gill Motors in Pukekohe did the job & I didn't even have an account with them @ the time. I emailed them & told them what was going on & they had the work done the same day as they received the car from the towing company. Great service from them !
Fuel consumption was better than the equivilent sized Holden or Ford. The car was serviced every 10,000k regardless & never missed a beat.

[ducatilover]

YAfter 12 years and nearly 200,000km it was still "as new". Every Jap import had issues they shouldn't have had with my Nissan Caravan diesel being the most reliable.

450,000km on our '96 Corolla wagon now and not a single break down.
Horriible sack of shit to drive though, hateful wheeled sin!
The brother's '91 325i is pushing 300,000km.
Only issue was the IACV got dirty, no biggie, can sort one in well under an hour. :2thumbsup
Mind you, both are NZ new.
My NZ new FSH '91 Celica GT-R (very well optioned too, was a nice car) decided to munch its head gasket at 180,000km, whereas the import Celica ZR I had recently was fine at 240ish kms.
It nothing to do with import or not, it's choocing the right vehicle and knowing the vehicle.
My Jap spec BMW 320i was a great car, never had an issue.

[onearmedbandit]

Your posts are from a man who knows what he is doing and sells cars well chosen and presented. Your comments about the problems you do see affirm my comments in general. Far too long have far too many dealers ripped off buyers with dodgy imports. It is not easy to find a reliable dealer though with the publicity some are getting it may improve when customers become more wary and know better what to look for.

Not only have they been ripping them off with 'dodgy imports', but also dodgy NZ new vehicles.


It is certainly down to proper servicing and choosing stock that has the history you look for. My daughter's husband very thoroughly checked out several cars before choosing a very nice Honda. Odysee. They have had several issues that should not have occurred had it been represented honestly, of course in that case the dealer wouldn't have sold it.

No one has a crystal ball Ed. Even an AA or similar pre-purchase inspection will inform you that is a visual check only 'on the day'. No one will strip an engine to inspect the quality of individual components, or put an estimate on how long until you start having electrical problems. Yes we do buy well represented vehicles, but occasionally we still get burnt. Nothing we can do about it but fix the problem, either pre or post purchase. That's the difference between a good dealer and a dodgy one.



I have had dozens of vehicles over the years and the only completely reliable car was our '99 Nissan Pulsar which we bought new and sold to buy the Kizashi. After 12 years and nearly 200,000km it was still "as new". Every Jap import had issues they shouldn't have had with my Nissan Caravan diesel being the most reliable.

Our MX5 is so far proving reliable and fun but we don't do a lot of miles in it, being a fine weather toy.

Sorry to hear that you've had a bad run. But that doesn't make it a rule.

[Pussy]

Had a 4 Door 120Y Cherry for a bit. So did my girlfriend's Dad. He worked for Ford. I'm not telling any more. There was a 120A Cherry Coupe with the same front end styling as the four door.

I was going to say that I won't argue.... but bugger it, I will! :bleh:
The 120Y wasn't the Cherry!

[SVboy]

I was going to say that I won't argue.... but bugger it, I will! :bleh:
The 120Y wasn't the Cherry!

plus 1-was a cherry an 100A?

[Pussy]

plus 1-was a cherry an 100A?

Yes it was!

[Edbear]

Not only have they been ripping them off with 'dodgy imports', but also dodgy NZ new vehicles.

No one has a crystal ball Ed. Even an AA or similar pre-purchase inspection will inform you that is a visual check only 'on the day'. No one will strip an engine to inspect the quality of individual components, or put an estimate on how long until you start having electrical problems. Yes we do buy well represented vehicles, but occasionally we still get burnt. Nothing we can do about it but fix the problem, either pre or post purchase. That's the difference between a good dealer and a dodgy one.

Sorry to hear that you've had a bad run. But that doesn't make it a rule.

You're absolutely correct of course.

The issues my kids have had were such that a dealer would have known about at sale time but seems in hindsight was counting on it lasting until out of the warranty period.

Of course, too, when dealing in anything involving mechanical and or electrical componentry you will inevitably get failures unforeseen but you hit the nail on the head stating the difference is in what you do about it. It seems most buy cheaper, lower grade vehicles and rely on the law of averages. Recent high profile cases in the news will hopefully see the worst offenders go away.

Personally my reputation and my name are more important than the immediate dollar and long term your rep is your dollar.

[SVboy]

While I bow to OAB,s industry knowledge, I dispute the reliability of European cars generally speaking, especially in comparison with jappa cars . I am sure that a late model with FSH or brand nz new euro would be reliable as[and undoubtably safer than a jappa], but given a few years the problems can be bankrupting. I give you mercedies air suspension or even their air cond units. How about VW coil packs. The particulate filters on any euro diesel. The fuckers clog on high quality euro fuel let alone NZ sludge..... I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

[SMOKEU]

I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

Peugeot make pretty good cars. I'd buy a diesel one if I wanted a cage.

[unstuck]

Had a good run with mitzis myself. Mazda was my pick for the crappiest. Toyota would be my favorite pick from that list. Fords are the worst fucking cars, pieces of shit, only ever had one decent ford and that was a mazda(laser).:devil2:

[SVboy]

Peugeot make pretty good cars. I'd buy a diesel one if I wanted a cage.

Had a friend who bought a new nz new 306 or 7-pretty much a base line no frills model. From new it had eletrical problems that the franchise dealer was unable to fix-ever. As for Nissan aligning itself with Renault....and arnt some of the diesels in suzuki 4wd and toyota RAV and corolla citroen in origin? What were they thinking?

[onearmedbandit]

While I bow to OAB,s industry knowledge, I dispute the reliability of European cars generally speaking, especially in comparison with jappa cars . I am sure that a late model with FSH or brand nz new euro would be reliable as[and undoubtably safer than a jappa], but given a few years the problems can be bankrupting. I give you mercedies air suspension or even their air cond units. How about VW coil packs. The particulate filters on any euro diesel. The fuckers clog on high quality euro fuel let alone NZ sludge..... I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]


The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy! Except for the DELICA 4WD 2.3 diesel turbo. OMG! How the garage owners must have laughed and rubbed their hands!

^^ This was your original statement, which as I said is totally inaccurate.

Yes some Euro's can be very expensive to repair, but bear in mind the original purchase price of some of these cars. For example the Mercedes cars equipped with air suspension would be models that sold originally for well over $100k. I can show you examples of Japanese cars that retail near that (we have a Honda Legend in stock that has electrical issues preventing us from selling it, the ABS computer alone makes it unworthy of fixing, let alone the air-bag computers). Certain Lexus models too are incredibly costly to replace electrical components on. My point is it's not just the Euro cars that are pricey to repair. We've sold plenty of French cars, both Citreon and Peugeot that we have had faultless runs with.

[ducatilover]

Had a friend who bought a new nz new 306 or 7-pretty much a base line no frills model. From new it had eletrical problems that the franchise dealer was unable to fix-ever. As for Nissan aligning itself with Renault....and arnt some of the diesels in suzuki 4wd and toyota RAV and corolla citroen in origin? What were they thinking?
They're Pug/Nissan/Citroen efforts, same as the V6 in the 350z, all developed by the same bunch, so you can't blame the froggies as the Nips were involved.
The late 90's Pug diesels were excellent cars, I'd happily own one

[ducatilover]

^^ This was your original statement, which as I said is totally inaccurate.

Yes some Euro's can be very expensive to repair, but bear in mind the original purchase price of some of these cars. For example the Mercedes cars equipped with air suspension would be models that sold originally for well over $100k. I can show you examples of Japanese cars that retail near that (we have a Honda Legend in stock that has electrical issues preventing us from selling it, the ABS computer alone makes it unworthy of fixing, let alone the air-bag computers). Certain Lexus models too are incredibly costly to replace electrical components on. My point is it's not just the Euro cars that are pricey to repair. We've sold plenty of French cars, both Citreon and Peugeot that we have had faultless runs with.
People seem to be comparing a 4AFE Corolla esque car to a well specced, safe and actually nice European cars

[gsxr]

The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy! Except for the DELICA 4WD 2.3 diesel turbo. OMG! How the garage owners must have laughed and rubbed their hands!

Umm I hate to admit but I owned one of them.It had a recon motor so thought it would be all good.
Cracked a head .2nd hand bare head was $1000.00. Gearbox shit itself majorly $1800.00 2nd hand.
Parts only. I do my own repairs.
Evidently they used the same gearbox as a Galant.It didnt like towing 2 tonne up its arse everyday.
Bad batch of oil terminated the motor so i gave the bloody thing away.

Nissan Terrano TD 27 turbo now has 232,000 km on it.In 10 years apart from regular oil chages at 7500km the total cost of repairs has been 1 set of tyres 1 battery 1 tail light bulb and a rear vision mirror that was knocked off by a bus whilst it was parked.
It isnt fast (in fact it is slow as fuck but it does everything I want it to do. Stick the 20 ft caravan up its arse and it hardly knows its there. Same as the 10 x 5 high sided trailer fully loaded. It pulls like a school boy.
I should actually replace it but it is just so handy.

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

[onearmedbandit]

People seem to be comparing a 4AFE Corolla esque car to a well specced, safe and actually nice European cars

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.

[onearmedbandit]

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

Volvo's are not a good example. If we are forced to trade one we'll $1 reserve it.

[ducatilover]

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.
I think it's really a matter of choosing wisely, easy tip to rule out most BMWs that you should buy: Does it have less than 6 cylinders? Yes? Move along. No? Manual or auto? Manual? Excellent, check the rest of the car! Auto, is it ZF, Jatco or GM? etc etc
It's a matter of being BMW mad, that's why I've never had any issues that have been expensive.
But for anyone whom doesn't have a clue, they should buy a Corolla. Leave the decent cars for me.

[SVboy]

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.

You are probably right.I have no hesitation in lavishing $$$ in maintainance on all my bikes [and cars]. If I made the lifestyle choise to run an expensive euro,it would be niave not to bring the same attitude towards looking after it. In saying that, I drive an Altezza, which I gather is based on a late 90s 320i-except with all the BMW issues removed! I get the handling and quality of a nice rwd euro and reliability of a toyota! Pefect!

[ducatilover]

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels
Shop around for parts mate
I can do both coils for under $150NZD, new.
I can do manual driveshafts, (inner and outer CVs included) for 280-300 each. :2thumbsup
Individual CVs are much cheaper.

But I have to admit, the 40 series Volvos are shite, the b4204 2.0 and that heinous 1.8 GDi borrowed from mitsi are a huge let down

[onearmedbandit]

I think it's really a matter of choosing wisely, easy tip to rule out most BMWs that you should buy: Does it have less than 6 cylinders? Yes? Move along. No? Manual or auto? Manual? Excellent, check the rest of the car! Auto, is it ZF, Jatco or GM? etc etc
It's a matter of being BMW mad, that's why I've never had any issues that have been expensive.
But for anyone whom doesn't have a clue, they should buy a Corolla. Leave the decent cars for me.

BMW autos (5 stage and above) we've had very few, if any issues with. VW and Audi on the other hand, not so much. Honda auto's, eeek run away.

[ducatilover]

You are probably right.I have no hesitation in lavishing $$$ in maintainance on all my bikes [and cars]. If I made the lifestyle choise to run an expensive euro,it would be niave not to bring the same attitude towards looking after it. In saying that, I drive an Altezza, which I gather is based on a late 90s 320i-except with all the BMW issues removed! I get the handling and quality of a nice rwd euro and reliability of a toyota! Pefect!
Great cars them, only common issue I'm aware of is eating lower ball joints. Do handle a treat and those 6 speed ones hum along okay

[ducatilover]

BMW autos (5 stage and above) we've had very few, if any issues with. VW and Audi on the other hand, not so much. Honda auto's, eeek run away.
It's the brand that's the issue with Bimmers, Euro spec 6 cyl E36s and NZ new (also SA models, not that we get them here) have the ZF, the Singapore/HK/JP ones have the Jatco, which is a shocking unit.
That auto behind the late 90s 1.8 VAG is superbly reliable, you can trust it to eat valve bodies fast, every time :D
Not a fan of Honda units either, pop.

[onearmedbandit]

It's the brand that's the issue with Bimmers, Euro spec 6 cyl E36s and NZ new (also SA models, not that we get them here) have the ZF, the Singapore/HK/JP ones have the Jatco, which is a shocking unit.
That auto behind the late 90s 1.8 VAG is superbly reliable, you can trust it to eat valve bodies fast, every time :D
Not a fan of Honda units either, pop.

We import all our BMW's from Japan, and haven't had any cause major issues yet, if any issues. Maybe we've just been lucky so far! Even the late model Golf/Audi 'boxes cause issues, still in the valve body.

[ducatilover]

We import all our BMW's from Japan, and haven't had any cause major issues yet, if any issues. Maybe we've just been lucky so far! Even the late model Golf/Audi 'boxes cause issues, still in the valve body. I'm assuming you're talking E46 onwards though? I don't like 'em much (just a personal choice, look odd to me, lovely inside though) They usually are equipped with a much better box than the Jatco the JP E36 6cyls had.
I've seen many a VAG with a ruined box (giggity?)

[Pussy]

I reckon Jap imports are great. Got a lot of the old pommy shitters off our roads. Good cars for sensible money.

[scumdog]

I reckon Jap imports are great. Got a lot of the old pommy shitters off our roads. Good cars for sensible money.

Bland-as but!

[onearmedbandit]

I'm assuming you're talking E46 onwards though? I don't like 'em much (just a personal choice, look odd to me, lovely inside though) They usually are equipped with a much better box than the Jatco the JP E36 6cyls had.
I've seen many a VAG with a ruined box (giggity?)

Yeah E46. You're right about the E36 imports though.

[BMWST?]

Umm I hate to admit but I owned one of them.It had a recon motor so thought it would be all good.
Cracked a head .2nd hand bare head was $1000.00. Gearbox shit itself majorly $1800.00 2nd hand.
Parts only. I do my own repairs.
Evidently they used the same gearbox as a Galant.It didnt like towing 2 tonne up its arse everyday.
Bad batch of oil terminated the motor so i gave the bloody thing away.

Nissan Terrano TD 27 turbo now has 232,000 km on it.In 10 years apart from regular oil chages at 7500km the total cost of repairs has been 1 set of tyres 1 battery 1 tail light bulb and a rear vision mirror that was knocked off by a bus whilst it was parked.
It isnt fast (in fact it is slow as fuck but it does everything I want it to do. Stick the 20 ft caravan up its arse and it hardly knows its there. Same as the 10 x 5 high sided trailer fully loaded. It pulls like a school boy.
I should actually replace it but it is just so handy.

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

changed 1 set of tyres in 232000 ks.Please tell me more.

[AllanB]

I had a 82 SE twin cam Corolla that I sold with 300,000 on the clock - it had 80 odd when I purchased it and I thrashed it for 200 plus more! Mind you every second year or so I was getting rust cut out of it ...................

Digging my 02 AU XR6 (last of the Tickfords), mind you it only has 45,000 on it so just a baby. It does like fuel!

[gsxr]

changed 1 set of tyres in 232000 ks.Please tell me more.

Sorry I should have made it clearer. I bought it as a Jap import at 112000km. Got 71000 km out of the first set that were new when purchased. New set isnt lasting as well.
Roughly 12000 km per year as I RIDE my bike.

[BMWST?]

Sorry I should have made it clearer. I bought it as a Jap import at 112000km. Got 71000 km out of the first set that were new when purchased. New set isnt lasting as well.
Roughly 12000 km per year as I RIDE my bike.

thought it would be something like that,71000 is not to be sneezed at!

[gsxr]

thought it would be something like that,71000 is not to be sneezed at!

Kumho tyres for the win for anyone with a 4wd.
They have a 80,000 gaurantee but the conditions attached dont stack up but they are great tyres and they LAST

[BMWST?]

the smokiest cars round welly town seem to be mitsi's

[ducatilover]

the smokiest cars round welly town seem to be mitsi's
They'll all be GDi motors :faceplam: great idea that was, gutless and unreliable!

[jasonu]

mitsis fkn win. I've had half a doz. Starting with 84 sigma, 4g..something. Rwd.
incl couple magpies (6g73,t) and me L2 ute, 89, which will still tow most things. Backwards. (4g54)

If they are such crap why do you keep buying them?

[Rcktfsh]

Five pages and yet no ones mentioned Alfa Romeo!

[onearmedbandit]

Five pages and yet no ones mentioned Alfa Romeo!

That's because they go without mentioning. Or is that they don't go...

[steve_t]

Five pages and yet no ones mentioned Alfa Romeo!

Oh yeah! Horribly made Japanese cars :chase:

[Rcktfsh]

Oh yeah! Horribly made Japanese cars :chase:

Long since been hi jacked by tales of euro woes. The later Volvo's crack me up, basically the hypocondriacs of the automotive car world. Turn on the key and before starting the displays listing a sad tale of woe and reasons it shouldn't be driven, they make Marvin the paranoid android look positive.

[SVboy]

Toyota Cavalier-someone had to say it. IIRC it was ckd from us-assembled in Japan and sold to an unsuspecting public.....

[JimO]

Toyota Cavalier-someone had to say it. IIRC it was ckd from us-assembled in Japan and sold to an unsuspecting public.....
its not a toyota though

[Kickaha]

its not a toyota though

Saw them at the local Toyota dealer with Chev badges on them, about $2000 for a front windscreen when they first bought them in

[onearmedbandit]

its not a toyota though

Yup Chevrolet Cavalier. Horrible car that you'd struggle to sell on a $1 reserve auction. But we used to sell them by the boatload. Can't believe I admitted that. Guess it's the first step in dealing with the fact I'm responsible for probably 40 or more of them being on our roads myself.

[ducatilover]

Yup Chevrolet Cavalier. Horrible car that you'd struggle to sell on a $1 reserve auction. But we used to sell them by the boatload. Can't believe I admitted that. Guess it's the first step in dealing with the fact I'm responsible for probably 40 or more of them being on our roads myself.
Made by GM, such a crap car. Gutless for a 2.4 (even underpowered compared to most 2.0s at the time)
Hard to source parts at reasonable prices and not exactly the most reliable car...

I had a mate who loved his, but he's a fucking idiot.

[scumdog]

Yup Chevrolet Cavalier. Horrible car that you'd struggle to sell on a $1 reserve auction. But we used to sell them by the boatload. Can't believe I admitted that. Guess it's the first step in dealing with the fact I'm responsible for probably 40 or more of them being on our roads myself.

Thry're not related to an Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera by any chance??
I certainly hope not...

[EJK]

I don't think the nickname "Shitsubishi" was given for no reason.

[Akzle]

If they are such crap why do you keep buying them?

they win.

i've never had a problem with them. the old girl's sigma gave up on rust (the most she's ever done toward "servicing" a vehicle is putting fuel in. 91, that is.)

one of my V3ks had rust in the chassis (i did tend to drive it through the ocean a bit though), the other's were all sweet sweet. mate crashed the sigma, folded the front quarter in, it had a ke dropped in after and was raced. the other V3 went because the then-missus "needed somewhere to park HER car" and apparently 4 was enough. still got the ute... the next missus folded up the 6g76? diamante (2.5 V6), but that was awesome (for an auto FWD), especially with traction control off...

[scumdog]

they win.

i've never had a problem with them. the old girl's sigma gave up on rust (the most she's ever done toward "servicing" a vehicle is putting fuel in. 91, that is.)

one of my V3ks had rust in the chassis (i did tend to drive it through the ocean a bit though), the other's were all sweet sweet. mate crashed the sigma, folded the front quarter in, it had a ke dropped in after and was raced. the other V3 went because the then-missus "needed somewhere to park HER car" and apparently 4 was enough. still got the ute... the next missus folded up the 6g76? diamante (2.5 V6), but that was awesome (for an auto FWD), especially with traction control off...


TWO missus's that used up your car space and cars????:blink:

[Akzle]

TWO missus's that used up your car space and cars????:blink:

i might not be the sharpest crayon in the jar.

but i have learned. (plus. NEVER sold a bike for a bitch.)

[rebel]

While I bow to OAB,s industry knowledge, I dispute the reliability of European cars generally speaking, especially in comparison with jappa cars . I am sure that a late model with FSH or brand nz new euro would be reliable as[and undoubtably safer than a jappa], but given a few years the problems can be bankrupting. I give you mercedies air suspension or even their air cond units. How about VW coil packs. The particulate filters on any euro diesel. The fuckers clog on high quality euro fuel let alone NZ sludge..... I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

Funny you should mention Euro cars and high tech diesels, the French were ahead of the world a good 15 years ago when they released the 2.0 HDi in the Peugeot and Citroens which has proved to be a bulletproof motor even today (much like the older mechanical injected 1.9 it replaced from the 1980s). The fact both can return 5.0l/100km in something the size of a 406 makes these new expensive hybrids look like a crock of shit. As for all the VW anb Mercedes common rail diesel vans cruising around which again prove to be reliable so that speaks for itself.
As for the DPFs, they are new technology so expect teething problems, and its not just limited to Euros, old man work at Hyundai and they are going thru DPFs (5 grand) and turbos (4 grand) like no tomorrow, for the mid size car and SUV whatever the heaps of shit are called.
The new Suzuki diesels are Fiat motors, the new V6 diesel Navara is a Renault motor, gotta be better than that heap of shit ZD30.




Digging my 02 AU XR6 (last of the Tickfords), mind you it only has 45,000 on it so just a baby. It does like fuel!

put some kays on her! my old XR6 before I sold it to my flatmate, still going strong to this day, unopened engine and g.box although first gear syncro is fucked.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r158/coop_025/IMG_0016.jpg

[Maha]

Anyone have comments about the Mercedes, Volvo, other "high class" european imports that seem to be easy to pick up at very reasonable prices?

Far from it, in fact, it's Typically Topical OR Topically typical.

[Swoop]

I reckon Jap imports are great. Got a lot of the old pommy shitters off our roads.
Also saved road and carpark surfaces from being coated in a film of oil...

[neels]

Can only really comment on jap cars from experience at work, we buy brand new and service at the specified intervals, the mitsi's have been the worst with bits falling off and drinking oil at less than 100k.
Toyota's are reliable enough, but their performance and handling matches their target market of housewives and retired accountants.
By far the best have been the Nissans, great to drive, and no stupid cambelts to change.

Apart from a terrano with 200 trouble free k's on it the rest of the cars at home are euros, no reliability issues with any of them, if they stay as cheap as they are because the sheep are scared of them I'll keep buying them.

[MIXONE]

Can only really comment on jap cars from experience at work, we buy brand new and service at the specified intervals, the mitsi's have been the worst with bits falling off and drinking oil at less than 100k.
Toyota's are reliable enough, but their performance and handling matches their target market of housewives and retired accountants.
By far the best have been the Nissans, great to drive, and no stupid cambelts to change.

Apart from a terrano with 200 trouble free k's on it the rest of the cars at home are euros, no reliability issues with any of them, if they stay as cheap as they are because the sheep are scared of them I'll keep buying them.

+1.Owned lots of Euros and Nissans.Currently 1 turbo volvo and 2 turbo nissans (one for sale).

[MisterD]

Good to see seven pages and no mention of Scoobys...I wouldn't drive any other Japper.

[ducatilover]

Good to see seven pages and no mention of Scoobys...I wouldn't drive any other Japper.
The thread would be too long if we started on them

[scumdog]

Good to see seven pages and no mention of Scoobys...I wouldn't drive any other Japper.

Conversely it would be the last brand I'd buy/drive.

[spanner spinner]

Test drive a RA WRX and then tell me you don't want one, closest thing to a bike with a roof that i have ever owned. Would keep up with my mates ZX6 up to about 170 kph. But drink gas would empty the 45 liter tank in 150 ks if pushed hard, and realy needs 98 will only just run on 95 at lower power. And you don't buy one to nanny about in. But back to the relability, just start saving for the gearbox rebuild thats due about 100000km cause there not cheap to fix! Engine never missed a beat in 150000km just leave the bost where the factory set it. 15psi and 205kw is more than enough in a cage.

[ducatilover]

Test drive a RA WRX and then tell me you don't want one, closest thing to a bike with a roof that i have ever owned. Would keep up with my mates ZX6 up to about 170 kph. But drink gas would empty the 45 liter tank in 150 ks if pushed hard, and realy needs 98 will only just run on 95 at lower power. And you don't buy one to nanny about in. But back to the relability, just start saving for the gearbox rebuild thats due about 100000km cause there not cheap to fix! Engine never missed a beat in 150000km just leave the bost where the factory set it. 15psi and 205kw is more than enough in a cage.

Driven lots, don't want one.
Your mate needs a new ZX6... :facepalm:

[scumdog]

Test drive a RA WRX and then tell me you don't want one, closest thing to a bike with a roof that i have ever owned. Would keep up with my mates ZX6 up to about 170 kph. But drink gas would empty the 45 liter tank in 150 ks if pushed hard, and realy needs 98 will only just run on 95 at lower power. And you don't buy one to nanny about in. But back to the relability, just start saving for the gearbox rebuild thats due about 100000km cause there not cheap to fix! Engine never missed a beat in 150000km just leave the bost where the factory set it. 15psi and 205kw is more than enough in a cage.

But...but but they sound like an Anglias with one plug-lead off.

[huff3r]

But...but but they sound like an Anglias with one plug-lead off.

Letts be honest now, they don;t sound that much more out of balance than a Harley ;) :whocares:

[scumdog]

Letts be honest now, they don;t sound that much more out of balance than a Harley ;) :whocares:

I suppose you have a point - it's just I hear a lot more stuttery boisy Subarus around the streets.

[SMOKEU]

You certainly don't want an old, high mileage turbo Subaru. A mate of mine has an early 1990's RS Legacy, and he drives that thing gently and looks after it very well. In the 15,000 or so kms that he's had it, he's had to replace both turbos, clutch, gearbox, fuel pump, rear diff, horn wiring, sunroof motor, engine gaskets (not head gaskets), new ECU and numerous other electrical issues etc. Those are only some of the issues it's had since I can't remember every problem he's had with it. He's paid far more than the value of the car just in repairs. Lucky for him he's got a cheap mechanic who's also quite honest and knowledgeable. It's been run at stock boost the whole time he's had it, too.

I used to have Nissan GTIR which was almost as bad. The previous owner gave me receipts of a recent $9k of maintenance work (not performance mods) and that fucking thing still cost a king's ransom to keep on the roads. All that money for something that wouldn't be any quicker than a decent 4 cylinder early 1990's 400cc bike like a CBR400RR or VFR400.

[Edbear]

You certainly don't want an old, high mileage turbo Subaru. A mate of mine has an early 1990's RS Legacy, and he drives that thing gently and looks after it very well. In the 15,000 or so kms that he's had it, he's had to replace both turbos, clutch, gearbox, fuel pump, rear diff, horn wiring, sunroof motor, engine gaskets (not head gaskets), new ECU and numerous other electrical issues etc. Those are only some of the issues it's had since I can't remember every problem he's had with it. He's paid far more than the value of the car just in repairs. Lucky for him he's got a cheap mechanic who's also quite honest and knowledgeable. It's been run at stock boost the whole time he's had it, too.

I used to have Nissan GTIR which was almost as bad. The previous owner gave me receipts of a recent $9k of maintenance work (not performance mods) and that fucking thing still cost a king's ransom to keep on the roads. All that money for something that wouldn't be any quicker than a decent 4 cylinder early 1990's 400cc bike like a CBR400RR or VFR400.

Speaking of Subaru's I was thinking a new WRX sedan would be a real pformance bargain. 195kw and 340nm, five speed manual. A real sleeper with the smaller rear wing, understated compared to the STi and practically as quick on the road, better comfort too. Well specced. Try to find anything else with that level of performance at that price and you are hard pressed to think of another car close.

[steve_t]

You certainly don't want an old, high mileage turbo Subaru. A mate of mine has an early 1990's RS Legacy, and he drives that thing gently and looks after it very well. In the 15,000 or so kms that he's had it, he's had to replace both turbos, clutch, gearbox, fuel pump, rear diff, horn wiring, sunroof motor, engine gaskets (not head gaskets), new ECU and numerous other electrical issues etc. Those are only some of the issues it's had since I can't remember every problem he's had with it. He's paid far more than the value of the car just in repairs. Lucky for him he's got a cheap mechanic who's also quite honest and knowledgeable. It's been run at stock boost the whole time he's had it, too.

I used to have Nissan GTIR which was almost as bad. The previous owner gave me receipts of a recent $9k of maintenance work (not performance mods) and that fucking thing still cost a king's ransom to keep on the roads. All that money for something that wouldn't be any quicker than a decent 4 cylinder early 1990's 400cc bike like a CBR400RR or VFR400.

My '96 RSB has just ticked over 242,000km and has been pretty much trouble-free. Both turbos are original and I run increased boost. I don't thrash it but I don't drive like a nana either. Original gearbox and second clutch IIRC. No electrical issues ever. I do service regularly though. The only real issue is the 100,000 stone chips on the front of the bonnet.

[ducatilover]

Speaking of Subaru's I was thinking a new WRX sedan would be a real pformance bargain. 195kw and 340nm, five speed manual. A real sleeper with the smaller rear wing, understated compared to the STi and practically as quick on the road, better comfort too. Well specced. Try to find anything else with that level of performance at that price and you are hard pressed to think of another car close.

An earlier one :bleh: They're not that quick, but they get up hills okay and handle very well on good rubber
Bit boring IMO.

[Edbear]

An earlier one :bleh: They're not that quick, but they get up hills okay and handle very well on good rubber
Bit boring IMO.

A bit boring..? What are you used to? :eek5:

[jim.cox]

A bit boring..? What are you used to? :eek5:

Probably something that leans for corners

Bikes are better - end of story

[SMOKEU]

Speaking of Subaru's I was thinking a new WRX sedan would be a real pformance bargain. 195kw and 340nm, five speed manual. A real sleeper with the smaller rear wing, understated compared to the STi and practically as quick on the road, better comfort too. Well specced. Try to find anything else with that level of performance at that price and you are hard pressed to think of another car close.

If you buy a WRX, you want a JDM STI. Buy a second hand one with a a mechanical warranty from a dealer.

[ducatilover]

A bit boring..? What are you used to? :eek5:

:innocent: I have yet to find an AWD that I enjoy. I'm sure you can relate being an MX5 owner that fun isn't always 200kw.
And the bike thing, I can see one of those off rolling on in top gear from 100 ;) I can also be cramped, cold and uncomfortable. :facepalm:

SNOKEU is right, if you're after a WRX get the best example of an STI you can, with the adjustable torque split (that makes the fun on gravel)
I wouldn't turn down a V4/5/6 STI coupe though...or a 22B or Prodrive P1.

[Edbear]

:innocent: I have yet to find an AWD that I enjoy. I'm sure you can relate being an MX5 owner that fun isn't always 200kw.
And the bike thing, I can see one of those off rolling on in top gear from 100 ;) I can also be cramped, cold and uncomfortable. :facepalm:

SNOKEU is right, if you're after a WRX get the best example of an STI you can, with the adjustable torque split (that makes the fun on gravel)
I wouldn't turn down a V4/5/6 STI coupe though...or a 22B or Prodrive P1.

Aha, I see. I do admit that the thought of having to sell the MX5 to buy Mrs. Bear a car is somewhat problematic for me. We both love it but there simply isn't enough garage space for three cars and I can't think of leaving the MX5 outside. We wouldn't want a WRX left outside either which leaves the Kizashi, and I can't abide the thought of not being able to press the remote and drive into a dry garage...

Ah, the dilemma's we face..! :bye:

[SVboy]

Flick the suzuki and mazda and get a toyota 86 thingy. Handling and practicality.

[mossy1200]

Only good Mitz I ever owned was a gto twin turbo manual and the only maintence I ever did was cam belt and water pump when I first bought it.

Great car.

Only other Mitz I ever had was a galant which the clutch went twice within 3 weeks of buying it and the dealer ended up refunding me my money.

I had a Mitz work van L300 that used a litre of oil every second tank. The mechanic said a engine flush would slow it down but not worth repairing ???? Also got told its common fault. its most likely why new L300s are only 20k

[ducatilover]

Aha, I see. I do admit that the thought of having to sell the MX5 to buy Mrs. Bear a car is somewhat problematic for me. We both love it but there simply isn't enough garage space for three cars and I can't think of leaving the MX5 outside. We wouldn't want a WRX left outside either which leaves the Kizashi, and I can't abide the thought of not being able to press the remote and drive into a dry garage...

Ah, the dilemma's we face..! :bye:
These first world problems eh? I ran out of polish with my bike this evening, I'll have to wait 'till the morrow to get more, hard life :angry:

Flick the suzuki and mazda and get a toyota 86 thingy. Handling and practicality.

Then let me have a turn :D

[Edbear]

Flick the suzuki and mazda and get a toyota 86 thingy. Handling and practicality.

Yebbut, the 86, as fabulous a car as it is for sure, is but a modern MX5 with a hardtop and won't do more than our MX5 will for fun. Can't sell the Kizashi as that's my company car. I doubt an 86 would get very far ahead of the MX5 around the Coro for example unless the driver was someone special. May have a slight advantqage on the track as it's got another 50hp. But then the GT which is my favourite is $47k, so is it $40k better than the Mazda? Especially in the Summer when we can drop the top and cruise topless... :innocent:


These first world problems eh? I ran out of polish with my bike this evening, I'll have to wait 'till the morrow to get more, hard life :angry:

Then let me have a turn :D

I think I've got some polish here... :yes:

I'm down to drive the 86, just waiting for the call, so I can give you a definitive opinion once I have. Same with the SA Cobra with Venom Roadsters.

[MisterD]

You certainly don't want an old, high mileage turbo Subaru.

Mebee not, I've been driving 2.5 normally aspirated Foresters for the last 7 or so years and the only problem I've had has been a small boy pushing stuff into the CD player that didn't belong there...

Bit of extra ground clearance, forgotten what wheelspin in an Auckland downpour is...in fact the only regret I ever have is when I get booted in my back by said small boy's big brother...shoulda got an Outback with a bit more rear seat room.

Subaru - official wagon of NZ mountain bikers :yes:

[Sable]

Subarus have a bad rep they don't deserve, it's mainly due to fuckwits doing stupid things with them on a consistent basis and/or not looking after them. I know of one that gets rallied and it's got 330,000km on the clock, WITH the original motor and boost wound up. The shell I bought earlier this year had run a bottom end bearing at 317,000. Ducatilover, AWD boring? Get the centre diff welded haha.

[Flip]

Subarus have a bad rep because they are driven by fuckwits.

[ducatilover]

I'm down to drive the 86, just waiting for the call, so I can give you a definitive opinion once I have. Same with the SA Cobra with Venom Roadsters.
I look forward to the review on all of those :D
I'm still of the opinion that I'd rather an S2K than any other two door Japanese coupe (except a tidy S15 Spec R Silvia, nice car them) that F20C S2K lump is a smile maker. :yes:


Subarus have a bad rep they don't deserve, it's mainly due to fuckwits doing stupid things with them on a consistent basis and/or not looking after them. I know of one that gets rallied and it's got 330,000km on the clock, WITH the original motor and boost wound up. The shell I bought earlier this year had run a bottom end bearing at 317,000. Ducatilover, AWD boring? Get the centre diff welded haha.
Some are good, I've known reliable Ladas too. I had a mate with a 270,000km WRX, very early 93 model, was very quiet in the engine and drove fine (apart from the usual rattles and road noise)
If you take care of one, they will last fairly well. But as far as being amused goes, they don't do it for me.

Subarus have a bad rep because they are driven by fuckwits.

And because, until recently, they weren't very good.
I do like me a Legacy wagon myself, nice car, plenty enough room, drive well enough and go okay, but finding a good 90s Subaru turbo is very hard

[neels]

Subarus have a bad rep they don't deserve, it's mainly due to fuckwits doing stupid things with them on a consistent basis and/or not looking after them.
The normally aspirated Subaru's we've had for work deserve their bad rep. They get serviced at the required intervals and don't get thrashed, they've all shat gearboxes and clutches at reasonably low mileages. One drank all of it's oil with no warning and lunched it's engine, another has just had the front off the engine to fix various leaks and strange noises.