Cleaning & removing rust off a motorcycle?

[Matariki]

Hey guys, I was wondering if you could recommend me some good rust removal for my Suzuki TS, I intend to take it out onto the road soon, but first I want to make sure that my bike is all tidy and safe. Its going fine and everything now (first two kicks and its away), but there's some rust on it that doesn't make the bike look very pretty. And, I noticed that today when I kick started my bike, one of the foot pegs fell off, its got a fair amount of rust on it which might be the reason why it fell off. So to make sure I don't get any other nasty surprises (especially when out on the road) I intend to clean my bike from top to bottom.

What sort of cleaners (and tools) would you guys recommend?

[Subike]

First off a tin of good quality Elbow Grease.
Dont forget to check the power bands when looking to be sure everything works.
And for reliable starting, an oily rag must be in your back pocket

[Ocean1]

If it's just surface rust then a good rub down with a 3M pad or (stainless steel wool type stuff) and some sort of cleaning wax will do. If it's structural rust (steel rusted away) then you need to have it fixed properly. So either take some pics so we can see it or get someone who knows what's what to look it over.

Cleaning. Get a squirty bottle and bung about quarter of a cup of fabric softener into it. Fill it up with water. Bike should be no more than warm. Squirt bike all over with mixture, just wet it. Make coffee. Hose bike off and spray with mixture again. Drink coffee.

Get a bucket of hotish water, add a shot of dishwashing detergent. Get a dishwashing brush and a toothbrush and scrub every surface of the bike. You missed some bits under the guards and around the exhaust, do it again. Hose the bike off and towel it down.

Get one of the car cleaning waxes and rub it into any paint and chrome. Let it dry and rub it over again. Repeat.

That's it, do that every month or so and you shouldn't see any further deterioration.

[Warr]

Use "CRC Marine 66" on any rusty bits. It penetrates and protects.
Like it stays on, where the-often-used CRC 5.56 will not.

It forms a thin film that lubricates moving parts for smooth action and protects metals from corrosion caused by humidity and salt air for extended periods. Superior penetrating power breaks through rust and corrosion, loosens rusted parts and keeps them free, displaces water from wet equipment and cleans away scale and dirt.

[Laava]

+1 on the crc 66. It is the best thing For your electrical connections too

[mossy1200]

Rost off

Spray and walk away

[Fast Eddie]

mad max 2....

... just.. walk away



if your foot peg fell off haha.. then your past cleaning ;)

good luck..

[ducatilover]

Leave it with me for a day, I'll clean it
And it's a good excuse for a bit of a ride :Punk:

[The Lone Rider]

For bolts, I run a wire brush on 20,000 RPM over the thread, then run a die down the bolt to check the condition of the bolt. Then replace as needed.

Bolts get locktited in, very light grade or whatever is appropriate for where the bolt goes. Loctite helps prevent corrosion. Exception being anything going through plastic - it tends to eat the plastic.

For threaded sections, I run a well oiled tap carefully down it.


For footpegs.. well wire brush at 20,000 rpm and then inspect. In some cases it's a replacement, some its a bit of welding.

Pegs, brackets, body work... wire brush on a drill, scotch brite, medium grit sandpaper.

Then paint, powdercoat, chrome, or I suppose you could regularly coat with fish oil.

[Sable]

Chrome/alloy = Autosol!

[Matariki]

Today I went to Mitre 10 Mega to pick up some steel wool, a wire brush and CRC silicone spray. I also talked to two salesmen who recommended to me that with the areas on the motorcycle frame that had surface rust on it, that after removing the rust I should prime, paint and oil over the affected area. Now, I'm pretty confused as they didn't really explain in detail the do's and don'ts of the procedure.

So, for anyone who is reading this and knows what the two salesmen were talking about, would you be so kind to answer this eager newb's questions?


Is this procedure necessary? If so, why?
What sort of basic tools am I looking at that are necessary for this job?
Do I need to strip down the whole bike or just the rusted areas?
If I need to strip down the whole bike, does that mean I have to remove the eletrics, tank, engine etc.?
Do I need to wash and dry the bike down between steps (before removing rust, after removing rust, after applying primer, after applying paint etc.)?
Are there any products (sprays etc.) that I should use to help remove the rust before going over with the steel wool?
What sort of primer do I need? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?
Do I need a spray gun for applying paint?
What sort of paint should I use? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?

[Akzle]

...wire brush on 20,000 RPM

what's one of them? i don't even think little angle grinders get that much RPM. maybe a small electric motor dremel type thing....??

to the OP.
this is probably beyond your tooling. definitely beyond your expertise. you would be well advised to get someone who knows what they're about to either give you a hand or do it for you. who said CRC silicone??

[Ocean1]

I know you want definitive answers, but without looking at the bike or some pic's of the rust it's hard to know how to help. Part of the problem is that whereas cleaning off the worst of it and using an oil or wax based preservitive is an OK short-medium term fix it sort of fucks it up when it comes time to do the job properly, IE repainting it. Especially anything with silicone in it.

If there's just some surface rust on the frame you can often sand it back and repaint it without stripping much out of the way. You've just got to be able to clean every square millimetre of damaged existing paint and rust back to shiney steel. You'd use newspaper and tape to mask off anything that might get unwanted paint overspray, use a rattle-can primer to give the immediate area a thin coat and when dry use some gloss black enamel to finish.

Pays to practice a bit first but if the rust is reasonably accessable there's no reason you can't manage it. I'd draw the line at stripping much of the bike to get at more difficult areas, save a few bucks and get someone familliar with the work to do it for you.

Luck.

Oh, see if you can get us some pic's of the problem, eh?

[The Lone Rider]

Don't use Autosol on chrome.

It'll make it look nice, yes.

But if that is your polish of choice for chrome, you will eventually wear through the chrome to the nickel.


And that was suppose to say 2,000rpm

[Matariki]

I know you want definitive answers, but without looking at the bike or some pic's of the rust it's hard to know how to help. Part of the problem is that whereas cleaning off the worst of it and using an oil or wax based preservitive is an OK short-medium term fix it sort of fucks it up when it comes time to do the job properly, IE repainting it. Especially anything with silicone in it.

If there's just some surface rust on the frame you can often sand it back and repaint it without stripping much out of the way. You've just got to be able to clean every square millimetre of damaged existing paint and rust back to shiney steel. You'd use newspaper and tape to mask off anything that might get unwanted paint overspray, use a rattle-can primer to give the immediate area a thin coat and when dry use some gloss black enamel to finish.

Pays to practice a bit first but if the rust is reasonably accessable there's no reason you can't manage it. I'd draw the line at stripping much of the bike to get at more difficult areas, save a few bucks and get someone familliar with the work to do it for you.

Luck.

Oh, see if you can get us some pic's of the problem, eh?

Yes, I'll go take some photo's now and post them up. :yes:

[The Lone Rider]

Priming is easy,

but oil it after painting it?

[Matariki]

to the OP.
this is probably beyond your tooling. definitely beyond your expertise. you would be well advised to get someone who knows what they're about to either give you a hand or do it for you. who said CRC silicone??

I was advised by the two salesmen at Mitre 10 Mega, they said its good for plastics (and chrome if I heard them right). If its no good I can always get a refund (or give it to my dad as an early fathers day present). If anything goes wrong then I'll let the panel beaters look at it, but in saying that, I can't learn if I don't give it a go. I'm prepared to purchase equipment as I go along, I enjoy motorcycles and chances are (and I sincerely hope so) that I'll be riding for many years to come. So I might as well learn the A,B,C's of motorcycle maintenance now. In my last thread I managed to get my motorcycle going (which was the last problem) after tinkering around with it (with the help of forum advice). I considered that to be beyond my expertise (and so did the onlookers), so I asked what I should do and the kind people here gave me suggestions.

[Matariki]

Priming is easy,

but oil it after painting it?

I must of misheard them, by they said that 'oil' is good for preventing rust. They showed me a spray can of something (I can't remember, my short term memory is shockingly bad :no:) and they referred to it as the 'oil' that I should put on the newly painted areas. Would you have any ideas what they might of been referring to? :scratch:

What would you recommend for rust prevention?

[zique]

do you think they said "fish oil"? It comes in a can now..just spray and it prevents rust!

[FJRider]

What would you recommend for rust prevention?

Avoiding wet places ...

[The Lone Rider]

Might be fish oil

But I don't believe it is necessary to be putting fish oil on things once primed and painted.

But to do a good job, you're really gonna need it to go to a professional to have the paint matched and touched up, or have the entire bike painted. Or you can home job it, and paint it yourself if you're game. Or you can simply prime it and leave it - but it will be noticeable.

I have a dent on my car at the moment, so I've just sanded it and primed it. It will no longer rust, and should I choose to I can panel beat it, bog it, and/or paint it. Until then, it's very obvious.


Usually, fish oil is for places that you can't paint or make no sense to paint. Like the connections on mirror stems.

[Ocean1]

I was advised by the two salesmen at Mitre 10 Mega, they said its good for plastics (and chrome if I heard them right). If its no good I can always get a refund (or give it to my dad as an early fathers day present).

CRC silicone is good for protecting plastics and paint. Unless you ever want to re-paint it. The Mitre10 dudes possibly didn't realise it but even trace particles of silicone anywhere near a surface to be painted causes serious problems, the paint runs away from it.

The joys of DIY maintenance eh?


I must of misheard them, by they said that 'oil' is good for preventing rust. They showed me a spray can of something (I can't remember, my short term memory is shockingly bad :no:) and they referred to it as the 'oil' that I should put on the newly painted areas. Would you have any ideas what they might of been referring to? :scratch:

What would you recommend for rust prevention?

Most oils are good at preventing moisture and air getting into corners and mating surfaces. The trick is to get everything in reasonable nick first, then use something like pro-lan (basically just lanolin) to keep it that way.

[Matariki]

Alright guys, here are the photos (I haven't washed and waxed the bike yet, so there's a bit of dust and mud on it from when I took around the yard):

Photos of the foot peg that fell off.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899370700/" title="1 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8301/7899370700_e4ff439829.jpg" width="487" height="285" alt="1"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899371100/" title="2 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8454/7899371100_f7e0c18a79.jpg" width="484" height="311" alt="2"></a>

The side that the foot peg fell off.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372668/" title="5 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8439/7899372668_6bdf7fc358.jpg" width="385" height="333" alt="5"></a>

Here is what I can see on the bike so far, it doesn't look too bad, but I think it could do with a bit of tidying up.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372954/" title="3 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8313/7899372954_80e3a3bb15.jpg" width="434" height="333" alt="3"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372554/" title="6 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8174/7899372554_1f71c4c242.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="6"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372448/" title="7 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8439/7899372448_bdbd21a395.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="7"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372328/" title="8 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8172/7899372328_d950cec58a.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="8"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372170/" title="9 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8445/7899372170_3e62f5fa5c.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="9"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372036/" title="10 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7899372036_da1fafb17b.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="10"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899371912/" title="11 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8305/7899371912_1609b8b161.jpg" width="500" height="324" alt="11"></a>

There's a little bit on the tank as well (I'm not sure about inside the tank)

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899371804/" title="12 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8302/7899371804_df4f8e12f5.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="12"></a>

Could do with a bit of polishing up.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899371660/" title="13 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8039/7899371660_b85f7c057d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="13"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/86314579@N08/7899372812/" title="4 by MasterTeAho, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8439/7899372812_bcda0e099f.jpg" width="445" height="333" alt="4"></a>

[ducatilover]

Your footpeg is missing the split pin
And as for the rust, I think you might be about as pedantic as I am.

[Matariki]

Your footpeg is missing the split pin
And as for the rust, I think you might be about as pedantic as I am.

Ah, another perfectionist I see. :cool:

[pete376403]

Things like the footrest - wirebrush the surface rust off and shoot it with flat back aerosol spray paint - several light coats rather than one heavy coat. Thats about all the factory ever did.

[Subike]

I have a dent on my car at the moment, so I've just sanded it and primed it. It will no longer rust, and should I choose to I can panel beat it, bog it, and/or paint it. Until then, it's very obvious.

.

Funny thing about primer.
It is porous, designed so to absorb the paint you put on it . But it also absorbs water.
Left uncovered in the air, it absorbs moisture. Funny that eh.
Under it, the metal you removed the paint from, will become rusty .
Have you not noticed that primer painted cars develop surface rust really really fast if used before painting?
I think you should rethink your idea Tony.

As for surface priming ? a good etch primer is really good to use eh. make the top coat stick well.
But as for small touch up Bike frame cleanups with a hand brush.
I would recommend the product called Hammerite, comes in matt , gloss, semi gloss and hammer finish.
A very hard durable paint that seals over metal quite well. And is very resistant to chipping from trail riding etc.

[The Lone Rider]

That'll be a first.

I've had bikes painted in just primer, and another car.



Never rusted further.

[Laava]

I would just spray the rusty bits with CRC or similar and ride it. There is no point stripping back and repainting unless you are doing the whole lot. This bike is in good nick overall and if you are riding it daily, just when you wash it go around with the spray.
And if you do paint stuff, don't leave it primed as it will rust thru quickly. Primer is very porous and by the time you see the rust showing thru, it is strip back time!
Get out there and enjoy it!

[Ocean1]

Your footpeg is missing the split pin

Yup, take the pin with the wee hole in to a garage, or Repco or Supercheap and ask 'em for a new one and a couple of spares.

I'd clean and paint both pegs, they're easy enough to get off. Little trickier to get on but you'll work it out.


But as for small touch up Bike frame cleanups with a hand brush.
I would recommend the product called Hammerite, comes in matt , gloss, semi gloss and hammer finish.
A very hard durable paint that seals over metal quite well. And is very resistant to chipping from trail riding etc.

Is good stuff, eh? I use it over PA10 undercoat. Not sure if it's worth Hk buying a can, though, I could only get it in 1L and it wern't cheap.

As for the rest, I'd clean the underside of the trippleclamp as much as you can and then rub some prolan or even car wax into it. Mr Suzuki makes some nice motorbikes but even his most ardent supporters would admit some of his finishing is less than perfect. See if you can find some nail polish about the same colour as the tank.

Nice wee bike, get out and ride it.

Edit: those rusty bolts can be replaced with stainless steel ones, just undo them and take them in to someone like Anzor, they should have stainless stock to match. The mirror unscrews, undo the hex nut at the base, sand the mirror stem and paint it with a gloss black enamel from a rattlecan. That gear shifter is way too low, it should be maybe 10mm above your toe when you're sitting naturally on the bike. Undo the pinch bolt and remove it, pull the lever off the shaft and reposition it, put the bolt back in and check the position, repeat until it's right and then tighten the pinch bolt to about 10Nm.

[Akzle]

CRC silicone is good for protecting plastics and paint. Unless you ever want to re-paint it. The Mitre10 dudes possibly didn't realise it but even trace particles of silicone anywhere near a surface to be painted causes serious problems, the paint runs away from it.

The joys of DIY maintenance eh?



Most oils are good at preventing moisture and air getting into corners and mating surfaces. The trick is to get everything in reasonable nick first, then use something like pro-lan (basically just lanolin) to keep it that way.
+1
don't listen to "mitre 10 dudes" they're few and far between a good 'un.

OP
well, if you're game to buy new stuff then buy away!
although a footpeg snapping off is not "surface rust" nor something you'll fix. (without a welder. (buy one! - a TIG))


...Today I went to Mitre 10 Mega to pick up some steel wool, a wire brush and CRC silicone spray...
wire brush -check. (one that goes in a drill is a helluva lot faster) if you got one of the orange plastic ones, get hubby to hacksaw the end off so as you can get into corners.
steel wool - should be #0000 grade and probably not worth the use on the frame. only good for very, very fine filling/paint finishing.
CRC silicone - put it in the cupboard. it's not for this job.


...Is this procedure necessary? If so, why?...
procedure? if you want to do a good job at it, you need to strip it back to bare metal and start from dot. if you're rough n ready, you can just ratte-can over it.

...What sort of basic tools am I looking at that are necessary for this job?...
sandpaper in grades from 200 to 4000 and a big tin of elbow grease.
[quote]...Do I need to strip down the whole bike or just the rusted areas?...
color matching i PITA. buy "magic" matching paint and feather the edges.
[quote]...If I need to strip down the whole bike, does that mean I have to remove the eletrics, tank, engine etc.?...
this is entirely possible.

...Do I need to wash and dry the bike down between steps (before removing rust, after removing rust, after applying primer, after applying paint etc.)?... bike needs to be clean (ish), stripping rut will make either an acid-ey mess or a dusty one. either way you want the bike clean and free of dust prior to priming/painting. if you can put a gas torch on it, or put the pice in the oven, do so, as that will get the moisture out of the metal and make the paint stick to it like shit to blankets. generally sand between coats. (with 4000 grit) then wipe over with your hand to pick up the dust. getting it wet at this point just means you need to get it dry again.

...Are there any products (sprays etc.) that I should use to help remove the rust before going over with the steel wool?...
as above. steel wool is the devil's work. only for very, very, very fine (finer than 4000 grit sandpaper) type work.
you can buy "rust converter" or "rust eater" type products. - basically a mild acid that eats rust but isn't strong enough to eat good metal. thee need to be washed off thrououghly and the urface re-prepped after (4000 grit) as they tend to pickle the metal.

...What sort of primer do I need? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?...
someone else will know better. i use PA10 or "navy" grey, but i never want a finish that's real purty.
anything in a rattle can, "zinc-it" type should work for your purposes.

...Do I need a spray gun for applying paint?...
ideally - yes. if you already have a compressor go and buy yourself a small "touch up" gun or even a normal gravity-feed gun. tip size should be <1mm. if you have a really good compressor, feel free to get a siphon feed gun, else tick to the gravity feed ones.
if you do not have a compressor - this will be a rattle-can job for you.

...What sort of paint should I use? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?...
auto paint. someone else will have more advice than me.

[Matariki]

So from reading everyone's posts, this is what I understand so far:

1. Clean the bike down first with water, car wash, and a suitable brush or sponge (I have a microfiber sponge)
2. Wipe down with a chamois and leave to dry
3. Inspect the bike, find areas with rust (remove rusted bolts and replace)
4. Spray CRC on the affected areas and begin to remove rust with fine steel wool or sandpaper (I have steel wool), use brush on hard to reach places (or areas with a substantial amount of rust)
5. Rinse down bike again to remove any rust residues, wipe down bike again with a chamois, leave to dry
7. Apply Porlan to the trippleclamp
8. Cover the areas on the bike that is not being painted with newspaper
9. Apply primer (unless using Hammerite)
10. Apply paint in a series of light coats for even finish, leave to dry

Does this sound right?

[Paul in NZ]

post up some pics of the dodgy bits. it ill be easier to offer an educatd opinion then

[Laava]

TBH you now have ahuge amount of conflicting information and going from the photos you have posted, fix the footpeg, spray the rust with some type of oil, CRC or WD40 etc to keep a film of some sort on it and RIDE it! It is pointless stripping things back and making a top notch factory finish on one part or part of the frame etc. Spend your money on fuel and tires and have fun!

[Ocean1]

TBH you now have ahuge amount of conflicting information and going from the photos you have posted, fix the footpeg, spray the rust with some type of oil, CRC or WD40 etc to keep a film of some sort on it and RIDE it! It is pointless stripping things back and making a top notch factory finish on one part or part of the frame etc. Spend your money on fuel and tires and have fun!

Yus. To be fair though, (just for the sake of the excercise, y'understand) not much of it is plain wrong, it's just a matter of personal preference, and it's a larger issue than might appear to a beginer. Pity there seems to be no local mentor wrt motorcycle maintenance up there, a few basic hands-on pointers would go a long way.

I agree, though, Hk, just fix the footpeg, keep it clean and ride it.

[Akzle]

So from reading everyone's posts, this is what I understand so far:

1. Clean the bike down first with water, car wash, and a suitable brush or sponge (I have a microfiber sponge)
2. Wipe down with a chamois and leave to dry put the hair dryer on it.
3. Inspect the bike, find areas with rust (remove rusted bolts and replace)
4. Spray CRC ??? on the affected areas and begin to remove rust with fine steel wool or sandpaper (I have steel wool), use brush on hard to reach places (or areas with a substantial amount of rust)
5. Rinse down bike again to remove any rust residues, wipe down bike again with a chamois clean dry hand., leave to dry
7. Apply Porlan to the trippleclamp ??
8. Cover the areas on the bike that is not being painted with newspaper + masking tape, if going that route. else just be careful when spraying and keep a wet rag at hand to wipe off overspray.
9. Apply primer (unless using Hammerite)
10. Apply paint in a series of light coats + 4000 grit sand between coats for even finish, leave to dry

Does this sound right? now it does...

(if using car wash make sure it's de-greaser only. any that leaves wax or coating will not be paint-over-able.)
. .

[Ocean1]

post up some pics of the dodgy bits. it ill be easier to offer an educatd opinion then

Back up a page mate.

[Matariki]

Akzle, why do I need hair dyer? Can't I leave the bike to dry on its own?
Is there anything wrong with using a Chamois?

[Warr]

I have looked at your pics and my advice is the same as post #4.
Dont go scraping, polishing, priming, painting.

WAY WAY easier to buy a can of CRC 66. Its all you need !!

If the rust is dusty and flaky wire brush it off and spray on the CRC 66. It will stop further rust developing.

[Matariki]

Pity there seems to be no local mentor wrt motorcycle maintenance up there, a few basic hands-on pointers would go a long way.


Yes, eventually once I move wellington (later this year), I do intend to do a mechanics course (level 2, probably at Weltec) so I can get familiar with the basics and get some hands on experience. For now, I'll have to watch youtube videos and sift through threads until I can find something that's consistent with what I'm looking to achieve.

[Matariki]

I have looked at your pics and my advice is the same as post #4.
Dont go scraping, polishing, priming, painting.

WAY WAY easier to buy a can of CRC 66. Its all you need !!

If the rust is dusty and flaky wire brush it off and spray on the CRC 66. It will stop further rust developing.

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.

[Akzle]

o. go on then.

you're just up the road from blackdog....

[FJRider]

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.

Do what needs to be done. You know what that is now. Do it once and do it properly. CRC is not "doing it properly" (NOT a temporary fix at best)... You take pride in your bike. Look after it. Take the lazy track now ... and you will regret it later .... as you do it again and again and again ....
One spot at a time .... little by little, you'll get there.

[Warr]

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.
Give it a try. The exposed metal / rusty bits, will once treated, darken and merge in with the original black frame.
Minimum effort for max benefit works for me !

..... and if later you decide to touch up with some paint, the CRC 66 dries enough to take an oil based primer/paint.

WRT a hard wearing Black paint Search out some PA10 (http://www.yachtpaint.com/aus/diy/products/primers/pa-10.aspx). This is a Marine Etch Primer that on a frame can be used as is ... no final coat required :)

[Matariki]

So, at the moment I'm trying to work out what I need to have on my list (I'm going to get a refund for the CRC Silicone spray since don't need it, I'll find a future use for the steel wool and steel brush). I've done a bit more research and I think following tools should be appropriate (I know this thread might sound over the top, yet alone having to even think about this, but this is my first time doing anything like this and I would prefer not to screw it up :facepalm:)

I will try Warr's method first before purchasing any paint.

For washing the bike (prepping the bike for painting):

Car wash (without wax or polish) - Armour All Car Wash should be fine (I think)
Mircofiber sponge
Synthetic microfiber chamois

For removing rust:

Sandpaper - 400 grit (to remove rust) and 1000 grit (to smooth surface down for painting)
Large clean brush - To brush away loose rust and dust

For painting:

Masking Tape
News Paper
Hammerite: Rust to Metal Aerosal (Black)
PA 10 Primer (only if necessary as its a bit on the pricey side, I think the Hammerite should be alright though)

For future preservation:

Wax & Polish - (is Armour All ok?)
CRC 5.56 or CRC Marine 66

If you don't think this list is correct or appropriate, feel free to edit.

[Warr]

Do what needs to be done. You know what that is now. Do it once and do it properly. .............
I am happy to agree with you ... to a point...

What is the goal Hotkebab has in owning the 185 ?
If it is as a project to lovingly restore to some sort of former glory .. Sure.

If it is to use as a daily commute /or a weekend fang my "Quick 'can' Fix" is most return for least effort :)

[FJRider]

I am happy to agree with you ... to a point...

What is the goal Hotkebab has in owning the 185 ?
If it is as a project to lovingly restore to some sort of former glory .. Sure.

If it is to use as a daily commute /or a weekend fang my "Quick 'can' Fix" is most return for least effort :)

Goals are funny things ... many, and varied.

Perhaps ... to practice such skills for a start. And as a (young) woman ... probably skills a little outside her current knowledge, and comfort zone ... so far.
And ... on her 185 ... not a major if it doesn't go as well as she hopes. On her NEXT bike ... it may be a different story.

And she will know HOW to do it better then ...

[Matariki]

I am happy to agree with you ... to a point...

What is the goal Hotkebab has in owning the 185 ?
If it is as a project to lovingly restore to some sort of former glory .. Sure.


The bike is a commuter, but the TS is a classic so I do want to keep it in good condition, especially considering its no longer being produced (production of the model stopped in 2005).
And Its something that I might as well learn how to do. In the future I would like to have a go at restoring a an older bike, but not until I've got some experience. Doing this is part of gaining experience. But I do want to make sure that I'm doing it correctly.

[Akzle]

Car wash (without wax or polish) - Armour All Car Wash should be fine (I think)
...
CRC 5.56 or CRC Marine 66

feel free to edit.
1) i would not think armorall appropriate. check the bottle though. dishwashing liquid will do.
2) 556 is for little girls. and even if you are a little girl. buy 66. (556 is shyte. for many reasons.)
3) we do.


Doing this is part of gaining experience. But I do want to make sure that I'm doing it correctly.

i have a memory of the haines manual i'm now looking at. for my truck, but does explain in quite some good detail, how to go about what you want to go about. (painting....) you should get one.

i also have an old TS haines, on account of i had an old TS. it's somewhere. i might sell it to you. for 500$.

[Matariki]

1) i would not think armorall appropriate. check the bottle though. dishwashing liquid will do.
2) 556 is for little girls. and even if you are a little girl. buy 66. (556 is shyte. for many reasons.)
3) we do.



i have a memory of the haines manual i'm now looking at. for my truck, but does explain in quite some good detail, how to go about what you want to go about. (painting....) you should get one.

i also have an old TS haines, on account of i had an old TS. it's somewhere. i might sell it to you. for 500$.

I've got a hynnes manual, but it doesn't cover painting or rust removal. It only recommends that I use soapy water (but that could be anything), I heard that dish washing liquid wasn't very good for painted surfaces (breaks down the wax or something, unless that's a good thing in my case?). I'll get some 66 since most of you are recommending it.

[ducatilover]

I'm not far up the road if you're wanting to ride it somewhere and I can have a proper look if needed. (you can clean my 600 too...ahem)

[Matariki]

I'm not far up the road if you're wanting to ride it somewhere and I can have a proper look if needed. (you can clean my 600 too...ahem)

Manawatu is little bit too far for me to come out sorry, I haven't ridden on the road for a while, so I'm not very confident about my riding abilities. I'm still recovering from a major accident that I had with my last motorcycle, which happened in may last year (a driver of a mobility van pulled out in front of me at an intersection without looking, we collided head on, I ended up completely shattering the bones in my lower left leg, which ended up being reconstructed, then I contracted necrotizing fasciitis which has left me with perment nerve damage :facepalm:). Its going to be a while before I pluck up the courage again to ride out in the road (yet alone through masterton where the incident happened). So for now, I'm happy riding around the yard and tinkering around with it in garage.

Soon I intend to go for a quite ride around Greytown with my parents out in front of me. This is part of the reason why I would like my motorcycle to be nice and tidy, I suppose for me its a sense of renewal (starting over again; new bike, first ride around the town on it), If that makes any sense.

[ducatilover]

Ouchies :crazy: Nerve damage is never fun, I can relate :facepalm:
Good on you for wanting a tip-top bike though :drinkup:
I'm near Eketahuna (sort of Manawatu-ish)