Some advice please - Suzuki GSX750 ES

[Tigadee]

Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

1. Visible rust on the inside of tank. See photos. The rego for the bike ran out in Nov 2010 so assuming it's been sitting around for the past two years and it arrived with only 1/4 tank of petrol, there's no surprise about the rust. Is it serious enough to require action? If so, what steps would you recommend?

2. Chain and sprocket. Looks like the chain's not been lubed in a long time, so I'll give it a go on removing it, soaking in petrol and then re-lubing it. That's the best procedure, right? Does the sprocket look OK?

3. Rear tyre. Looks OK? Seems so to me...

Thanks all [those who offered advice (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/151080-Anyone-know-anything-about-the-1983-Suzuki-GSX750ES)on the bike model and for those who will be answering on here].

[Tryhard]

Dude you can fit a 130 on the back. I have some mirrors for you and some dash light bulbs etc. I strongly recommend getting the valves and carbs done.

[Akzle]

Excellent choice of wheels.
Soak chain:yes
rust in tank: first up good steam clean. Then inspection mirror. Then it's eithr soda blast, expensive weld repairs, or set match to a litre of gas in it.
If it's had fuel sitting fr 2 yrs then def carb clean.
Check also tap and for any crud in tank.
Steam clean= step 1.

[Tigadee]

Excellent choice of wheels.

Thanks!


set match to a litre of gas in it.

:shit: Are you serious?!


Steam clean= step 1.

How do I get started with that? What and where do I hire whatever it is that I am to use to steam clean?

[Tigadee]

Dude you can fit a 130 on the back.

That's a thought and it'd look nice too... But that will have to wait till later.


I have some mirrors for you and some dash light bulbs etc.

Cool! Thanks...


I strongly recommend getting the valves and carbs done.

OK, looks like that will be one of the first jobs, in addition to the tank clean... :mellow:

[Sable]

Clean and lube chain, sure. If the tyre's warrantable I'd leave it, no point spending unnecessary money on a bike that cheap - you won't get it back. Don't worry about rust unless the tank's leaking. Just keep it topped up with gas.

[Tigadee]

The bike did just get WOF although that doesn't mean it will be reliable to run without some work done... I'll give it a go with a full tank of 98 on the first run.

[caseye]

Clean and lube chain, sure. If the tyre's warrantable I'd leave it, no point spending unnecessary money on a bike that cheap - you won't get it back. Don't worry about rust unless the tank's leaking. Just keep it topped up with gas.

Good advice, Clean and lube chain on the bike. Oh and of course keep cleaning the whole thing once you've started, when it's coming over?
I'll even take the coal burner off the new operating table.

[Jantar]

Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

1. Visible rust on the inside of tank. See photos. The rego for the bike ran out in Nov 2010 so assuming it's been sitting around for the past two years and it arrived with only 1/4 tank of petrol, there's no surprise about the rust. Is it serious enough to require action? If so, what steps would you recommend?

As lang as there are no leaks and the fuel is flowing OK then I would do nothing. If there is any problem with fuel flow then remove the fuel tap from the tank and thorougly drain and clean the tank. Check the filter is not clogged and reinstall with a new O ring. See http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm


2. Chain and sprocket. Looks like the chain's not been lubed in a long time, so I'll give it a go on removing it, soaking in petrol and then re-lubing it. That's the best procesure, right? Does the sprocket look OK?
It should be an endless O ring chain so do not remove it to clean it, but just clean it in place with a kerosene soaked rag. Oil or wax it well. Looking at the sprocket, it is close to replacement, so budget on replacing chain and sprockets in the near future.


3. Rear tyre. Looks OK? Seems so to me... It looks OK, so untill you get some mileage under your belt, I'd stick with it. If the bike has been sitting for a while then the compound may have hardened a bit. This is a two edged sword. Your tyre will last a little longer, but will give reduced grip in the wet. Yes, you can probably fit a 130/80 tyre to that rear wheel, but DON'T. As someone who has ridden one of these hard, I can assure you that the standard size is perfect for the bike. The tyres I found best, Pirelli Phantoms, are no longer made. Although I hate to say it, Shinkos are probably the closest tyre made that are close to what this bike likes.


Thanks all [those who offered advice (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/151080-Anyone-know-anything-about-the-1983-Suzuki-GSX750ES)on the bike model and for those who will be answering on here].

I would also have a close look at the spark plugs. The standard NGK are pretty good, but Champion made a suitable replacement that gave a more consistant spark. I can't remember the particular plug. On no account use AC/Delco, they will destroy pistons.

[Tigadee]

Good advice, Clean and lube chain on the bike.

Will do... :yes:


Oh and of course keep cleaning the whole thing once you've started

Eh? :confused: You mean just regularly lubing it won't be enough after a clean?


when it's coming over?

Soon, gotta do all the things the good people here have advised first... I'm no Nathanwhite, Lone Rider, Bogan or Ducatilover but I'll do my best...


I'll even take the coal burner off the new operating table.

Huh? :scratch:

[Tigadee]

Thanks Jantar, there's gold in dem words.... Cheers!

[ducatilover]

Brake cleaner will work better than petrol, use a bit of that and a wire brush.
I might, if you're lucky have an air filter that could fit it too

Google rust removal in a tank or whatever, there are several treatments you can use seafoam, POR15 etc or be super cool and go with electrolytic rust removal, then POR15 to seal it

For a new sprocket when the time comes, research a bit (I might do anyway), but I think the GT750, 750 Kats and RF900 used the same bolt pattern and offset on the sprocket
The stator is the same unit as a GN/GZ250, GS750/550 and a few Kawasakis (ZR550 is the only I remember off the top of my head)
I think they run a DR8ES spark plug
EDIT, or D8EA, too many bikes going through my mind sorry

[gsxr]

Great bikes.
I still have one of these GSX 750ESD although its now stored outside under a BBQ cover awaiting some dedicated time from me for a minor restoration.
Cam chain stopped holding hands under idle on choke so hopefully not too much damage.
I thought these motors were bullet proof but alas this one wasnt.
Im yet to pull it to pieces after 6 years. Its one of those Ill get around to it projects one day.
I hope you enjoy riding yours as much as I enjoyed mine Tiger

[gammaguy]

FYI

brake cleaner and petrol will dissolve o rings

[skippa1]

FYI

brake cleaner and petrol will dissolve o rings

+1 on that.....and the wire brush will make sure the remnants are gone

[Tigadee]

:shit: So what's the alternative?

Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?

DL - Thanks for the parts info, good on ya!

[Tigadee]

Check the [fuel] filter is not clogged...

Is a fuel filter basically a one-size fits all type device?

[Jantar]

Is a fuel filter basically a one-size fits all type device?
Have a look at the link I included: here it is again: http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm
The filter is that long upright piece on part 1. The O ring is part 2. (scroll down to the bottom of the page).

[Tigadee]

So the fuel cock is the filter. It's of the type that you clean out and put back in, rather than replace with another disposable one?

[Jantar]

So the fuel cock is the filter. It's of the type that you clean out and put back in, rather than replace with another disposable one?
Correct. ..

[Tigadee]

Thanks, am a noob at this stuff other than changing oil and oil filter... :o

[Laava]

If you are taking the tank off, draining it and removing the petcock, [which is prob a good idea] you may as well do the tank re-sealing thing with the POR15 tank resealing gloop. It is a 3 step process and very easy although time consuming in that you have to do it over a couple or 3 days. BUT it will be a new tank internally. Your local paint retailer should have or be able to source for you.
http://youtu.be/fZoz_PDxksc

[Rhubarb]

Up until 2 years ago I had this exact model (and colour) bike - I loved it.

I also had a rusty petrol tank. Sediment would settle in carby bowls so these may also need cleaning.


I bought some POR-15. It's a 3 part rust treatment and preventative that is sold as a kit.


Drain the tank, remove the fuel gauge sender (simple, 3 or 4 screws) and tap.
Block the holes left by the tap etc. I just cut a piece of thin mdf, drilled some holes and used the original screws.
Put the first POR-15 chemical (cleaner/sludge remover) in the tank and rotate the tank in all directions to spread the liquid over all of the internal surfaces.
I left it in for about an hour but rotated the tank about every 15 minutes.
Drain the cleaner. Rinse the tank with water.
Put in the Prep/Rust Killer - follow a similar process to above but leave in for 2 hours then drain and flush with warm water.
It must be 100% dry - no moisture. Just to be sure it was dry I poked the Wife's hair dryer in the filler cap for a while.
Put in the final sealer. Rotate the tank slowly (alot) to get full coverage then drain the excess.
Leave the sealer to cure for 4 days.


It was really simple and worked 100%.

This is where you can buy it in Auckland http://www.permanentpaintedcoatings.co.nz/por15/auckland.aspx


I still have several parts for the GSX750ES if your interested. Including a Service Manual, Speedo Drive, Swing Arm and Switch Blocks (on the handle bars - lights etc, left and right) complete with electrical cables.

269063 269064 269065 269066 269068

[Akzle]

:shit: Are you serious?!
How do I get started with that? What and where do I hire whatever it is that I am to use to steam clean?
i'm always serious. unless i'm using comic sans. even sometimes then i'm serious. i just don't want you not to know it.

burning it will strip the paint and get the moisture out of the metal. ready to re-paint.

steam cleaners.. hm. i know a guy ina factory in south auckland with one. any place that does "quarantine cleaning".. muh. many places, i'm sure. google-iser.


Don't worry about rust unless the tank's leaking.
this is bad advice. says i.
if the tank is shitty and rusty, and that rust is flaking into your fuel. and becoming a fine powder that will, at best, block your fuel filter, at worst, transmorgify something inside the cylinder.
better to deal with it i say.


Great bikes.
I still have one of these GSX 750ESD although its now stored outside under a BBQ cover ...
giz it.


Try the steam clean on the chain and then re-lube?
kerosene, i believe has been mentioned. old paintbrush. apply liberally.
if it's a clippy chain, just take it off and soak in kero. if it's riveted. and you're really keen, take the side of the bike off, so you can get the whole chain off and soak it in kero. you will also check it's wear at this time.


If you are taking the tank off, draining it and removing the petcock, [which is prob a good idea] you may as well do the tank re-sealing thing with the POR15 tank resealing gloop. It is a 3 step process and very easy although time consuming in that you have to do it over a couple or 3 days. BUT it will be a new tank internally. Your local paint retailer should have or be able to source for you.
http://youtu.be/fZoz_PDxksc
+1
listen to this guy. he knows his shit.

[F5 Dave]

I was about to piss on other advise about the tank (but in my imitable manner that would make them green bling me for being so understanding) but then the last few posters have it pretty nailed.

Old Suzis rust the tanks. It is a pain in the rectum & will only bring grief & a badly running bike. A fuel filter will not strain the silt, odd as it sounds but will take out the big bit & trust me I've tried & tried.

POR15 & follow the instructions. Actually there is a good article in latest CMM mag.

Make sure you unblock the vent hole just in the filler hole so it doesn't over flow. Heap of articles on doing tanks on net. POR is fav choice so far.

Then you can clean out the carbs & expect them to stay clean. Easy enough job, but frustrating the 3rd time.

[Tigadee]

Thanks guys... NZspokes came by and had a look and confirmed that a carb clean is in order, as the old fuel sitting in the tank for the past two years has varnished.

I'll be attempting to take the tank off this weekend and get hold of some POR15.

[FJRider]

Thanks guys. NZspokes came by and had a look and confirmed that a carb clean is in order, as the old fuel sitting in the tank for the past two years has varnished.

I'll be attempting to take the tank off this weekend and get hold of some POR15.

Don't forget to remove the fuel gauge float/sender unit from inside the tank before you try to line the tank. It wont work too well afterwards if you dont.

[actungbaby]

Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

1. Visible rust on the inside of tank. See photos. The rego for the bike ran out in Nov 2010 so assuming it's been sitting around for the past two years and it arrived with only 1/4 tank of petrol, there's no surprise about the rust. Is it serious enough to require action? If so, what steps would you recommend?

Rust doesint look too bad if its not flaking and fallling off i just keep it fulled up so air cant get to it make it worse, also u can stick fuel filter on the fuel line between tank tap and the carbs , but i just sort the bike first see how you go.

2. Chain and sprocket. Looks like the chain's not been lubed in a long time, so I'll give it a go on removing it, soaking in petrol and then re-lubing it. That's the best procedure, right? Does the sprocket look OK?

Dont use petrol mind you if you cant affford to buy some kerosin and just get old rag wipe it down on the bike , then you can mix bit gear oil and grease and brush that on between the links just on the sides you dont need it on the rollers


3. Rear tyre. Looks OK? Seems so to me...

Thanks all [those who offered advice (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/151080-Anyone-know-anything-about-the-1983-Suzuki-GSX750ES)on the bike model and for those who will be answering on here].

I got some spare halgen bulbs if you need them from my mx5 car

[actungbaby]

[QUOTE=Tigadee;1130386742]Hi all, so my big bike is here. It's looking rough (to be expected for a 1986 and only 1,550 dollars) so I'm needing advice on some things:

Looks like nice bike love the colour dude well done good score

[Tigadee]

Don't forget to remove the fuel gauge float/sender unit from inside the tank before you try to line the tank. It wont work too well afterwards if you dont.

Excellent point! Thank you!


I got some spare halgen bulbs if you need them from my mx5 car

They fit the bike?


Looks like nice bike love the colour dude well done good score

Thanks! I like the colour too, and it's kinda a luminscent pearl-ish blue, rather than just a straight metallic blue. Plus the white stripes also glow when lit, like high-vis...

Pity about the engine though. Well, I always knew at some point in this motorcycling thing that I'd need to become a grease monkey... :laugh:

[F5 Dave]

Its good for the soul, esp if you like me sit at a desk for work.

The brakes will likely need some attn, at a min a change in brake fluid and check the pistons are not seized. Best done the first time with a watchful eye, this isn't a super specialised job & as long as you do the bolts up correctly should not be a safety issue. Assuming you have some common sense they are pretty robust.

Those antidive hoses at the front do make them a bit mushy esp with age & I would recommend disconnecting them. This is easier than it sounds. You pull the hoses off the front & fit the single hose banjo bolt in place of the double ones & simply do not fit the short interconnecting hose. If you felt like being spiffy you could cut down the long bolts & fit them in the antidive units but they are not connected to open air-fork fluid.

This will take a cm out of the lever travel & make them easier to bleed to boot. Have a grown up help with bleeding as it can be frustrating but simple enough. Normal DOT4 fluid is fine but keep protective rags in case of splashes on paint. Firm press down on cross had screws removing master cylinder top & keep it level.

[Tigadee]

Woohoo! The bike's running smooth as a baby's buttocks and no carb clean or tank restore needed! George [Motorcycle Doctors] came by to have a look at the bike and his verdict was:
1. Tank rust not severe - can ride and just make sure it's topped up frequently
2. Carbs sound too good to need a clean.
3. Brakes in good nic, fluids look good.
4. Tyres OK, just no hard riding until time to change.
5. Chain and sprocket OK, just needs regular attention.
6. The vacumn hose was disconnected from the petrol tank, that's why it wouldn't idle and dies without choke on. Once that was reconnected, the engine ran smoothly and without choke

Oil change was all that was done. Final cost - 160 dollars! Now for some autosol and elbow grease to spiff up this baby, and fix the pack rack on... Gotta list the Venox for sale too. :bye:

Battery was a little weak, will need to be trickle charged. Took it for a get-to-know-you ride and we got along well. No hiccups/surprises, smooth power delivery, braked nicely and felt nimble. Only thing was the seat was slippery and I worried about sliding backwards off it! Will velcro on the seat and my pants help? LOL

Still, I rode like a bike virgin [again] and just got to know the bike bit by bit... I think we're off to a good start. :love: Thanks again to everyone for your advice!

[FJRider]

Battery was a little weak, will need to be trickle charged. Took it for a get-to-know-you ride and we got along well. No hiccups/surprises, smooth power delivery, braked nicely and felt nimble. Only thing was the seat was slippery and I worried about sliding backwards off it! Will velcro on the seat and my pants help? LOL

Still, I rode like a bike virgin [again] and just got to know the bike bit by bit... I think we're off to a good start. :love: Thanks again to everyone for your advice!

All good news then. Well done with the good score. (even if it is a suzuki)

See if you can get the battery tested ... once it starts to go ... the first cold spell will get that dreaded clicking sound as you hit the button. (most sparkys will do it for free)

Get a sheepskin for the seat. Will stop you sliding about and make it more comfortable on longer trips. With velcro/elastic straps to ease fitting/removal.

Take it away for a full weekend riding ... doesn't matter where ... just go, and keep going. Come Monday ... you'll be an old friend.

[Tigadee]

All good news then. Well done with the good score. (even if it is a suzuki)

Cheers!


Get a sheepskin for the seat. Will stop you sliding about and make it more comfortable on longer trips. With velcro/elastic straps to ease fitting/removal.

Do you leave the sheepskin on the bike once you've parked the bike? Or do you take it away with you? Like when you go into the office to work? Or is the sheepskin a permanent fixture and exposed to the elements?


Take it away for a full weekend riding ... doesn't matter where ... just go, and keep going. Come Monday ... you'll be an old friend.

Will do! :msn-wink:

[FJRider]

Do you leave the sheepskin on the bike once you've parked the bike? Or do you take it away with you? Like when you go into the office to work? Or is the sheepskin a permanent fixture and exposed to the elements?


On my bike the seat can be easily removed from the bike. And (apart from being cut off) cannot be removed without doing so. Strong wide elastic holds it in place.
I leave it on (in all weathers) but take off and wash it on a regular basis .... if it needs it. Don't spend a fortune on one ... a factory off-cut does the trick. (a second-hand car seat cover ... modified .. works well)
You decide if it covers the bits the mrs sits on ... or just the bit you do. Marital harmony may be assisted ... if her bits are covered. (well in public anyway)

[ducatilover]

Awesome to hear it's working out, keep that beast safe and make it hella pretty

[nzspokes]

Still, I rode like a bike virgin [again] and just got to know the bike bit by bit... I think we're off to a good start. :love: Thanks again to everyone for your advice!

I will take it out for a blast and see what it can do. Bhahahahaha

[FJRider]

... keep that beast safe and make it hella pretty

it's only a bloody suzuki ... :shutup:

[Tigadee]

On my bike the seat can be easily removed from the bike. And (apart from being cut off) cannot be removed without doing so. Strong wide elastic holds it in place.

I leave it on (in all weathers) but take off and wash it on a regular basis .... if it needs it. Don't spend a fortune on one ... a factory off-cut does the trick. (a second-hand car seat cover ... modified .. works well)

Ah, I see. Thanks.


You decide if it covers the bits the mrs sits on ... or just the bit you do. Marital harmony may be assisted ... if her bits are covered. (well in public anyway)

Marital harmony is a good thing... :sweatdrop


Awesome to hear it's working out, keep that beast safe and make it hella pretty

Thanks DL, will do my best!


I will take it out for a blast and see what it can do. Bhahahahaha

Bwahahahahahahaha! :devil2:


it's only a bloody suzuki ...

And three times the power of my old bike, though only half of yours... :facepalm:

[FJRider]

And three times the power of my old bike, though only half of yours... :facepalm:

In six months time .... you will wonder where it all went ... And go looking for more. :facepalm:

Trust me on this ... :yes:

[ducatilover]

In six months time .... you will wonder where it all went ... And go looking for more. :facepalm:

Trust me on this ... :yes:

You can have far too much, but still need more! :D

[Tigadee]

:facepalm: Ssssssshhhh! :nono:

Let me enjoy my next six months... :laugh:

[FJRider]

:facepalm: Ssssssshhhh! :nono:

Let me enjoy my next six months... :laugh:

It will last longer than that. Enjoyment is not dependent on horsepower. And the speed limit is only 100 km/hr. ... :innocent:





But more horsepower ... :wings:

[Tigadee]

And the speed limit is only 100 km/hr. ... :innocent:

:shit: It is?

[FJRider]

:shit: It is?

'fraid so. you find yourself traveling at speeds previously unheard of (for you) ... easier than you ever thought possible. it's addictive ...

[ducatilover]

And the speed limit is only 100% throttle. ... :innocent:





But more horsepower ... :wings:
Yes and yes, you're a very wise man FJ.

[Tigadee]

'fraid so. you find yourself traveling at speeds previously unheard of (for you) ... easier than you ever thought possible. it's addictive ...

269804

:Punk: :Punk: :Punk: :Punk:

[dino3310]

How come you selling her?


your craving for more power now arnt you:laugh:

[Akzle]

Woohoo! The bike's running smooth as a baby's buttocks ...
Still, I rode like a bike virgin [again] and just got to know the bike bit by bit... I think we're off to a good start. :love: Thanks again to everyone for your advice!

glad to hear it bro. yeah they take some getting used to (i found) but once you get that relationship cemented, you can open her up and let her have it!
(needs a sixth gear, although redline in fifth aint exactly tame)