Popping the bead

[Eddieb]

I'm trying to pop the bead on my E-09 shod DR650 rear rim but I'm having no luck, any suggestions?

I've pulled the valve and have tried leveraging a block of wood from under the tow bar as per this guy but no luck, the tyre pulls away from the rim while it's compressed but doesn't pop off the bead, so when I let go it stays put.

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DNrhMUPxI3o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'm going to try with a C clamp now, see if that works.

All going well I'll then use the 'Cool Tool' to fit another tyre to the rim.

[bart]

Someone needs to make a 'cool tool' for breaking the bead on a rear DR650 rim. That's one cool tool I'd be interested in. :yes:

[Eddieb]

2 C clamps and a pair of C vice grips didn't work either.

[GSers]

Make sure you have something under the rim so it doesn't get marked Put you piece of wood on the ground and on top of the tire as close to the edge of the rim as possible ( 2 people wood be good for this ) drive your car onto the peice of wood heading towards the rim.
You are just to light for this or your leveridge point is all wrong. Could try moving the bit going up closer to the draw bar in the photo.
GSers

[BMWST?]

want a hand eddie?

[FJRider]

Use your car jack. Wheel on the ground ...bottom of jack on the rim ... car/truck tow-ball above. Wind/pump up the jack.

[pete-blen]

http://img.youtube.com/vi/RWcMGnISWQM/default.jpg

[andy mac]

Wheel on bike, deflate tube, ride 300 metres up road, U turn - bead comes off rim now. Ride home with back end fishtailing. Tyre is now warm & pliable.

[dino3310]

i spray crc around the entire rim let it soak for a minute then use the car jack like FJrider sed, that was on the DRBIG rim so simular to the 650.
quite often the crc and tyre iron is enough

[FJRider]

i spray crc around the entire rim let it soak for a minute then use the car jack like FJrider sed, that was on the DRBIG rim so simular to the 650.
quite often the crc and tyre iron is enough

I've found the jacks that slide into a square fitting in the cars lower bodywork are the safest. CRC may bugger the rubber ... hot soapy water works well ...

[pete-blen]

CRC may bugger the rubber
:facepalm:

If that was the case CRC would have been sued out of exsistance
years ago... yanks just love haveing someone to sue...

[Kickaha]

CRC may bugger the rubber ... .

No may about it, CRC will bugger the rubber, you may get away with it on bikes though as the tyres possibly don't last long enough for it to show up

[FJRider]

No may about it, CRC will bugger the rubber, you may get away with it on bikes though as the tyres possibly don't last long enough for it to show up

Hot soapy water is easier to remove from the tyre, before putting the tyre back on.

[NordieBoy]

Lots of WD40.
I lifted the back of the builders van off the ground using the technique in the vid.

Now I've got a Torpedo7 tyre stand/bead breaker.
Haven't used it on the DR rear yet though.

[Kornholio]

I watched Toby Summers do it to his rear(and front) motard wheel with a garden spade... Place it near the bead and a quick sharp stamp on it and it popped straight away

[bart]

I watched Toby Summers do it to his rear(and front) motard wheel with a garden spade... Place it near the bead and a quick sharp stamp on it and it popped straight away

Might try that next time. Be a bugger if you want to re-use the tyre though.

[Motu]

White T shirt, shorts and white shoes - you need to engage yourself more fully in the task at hand. Even that bit of wood is unstained. I see an office worker playing at motorcycles....

[Kornholio]

Might try that next time. Be a bugger if you want to re-use the tyre though.

It doesnt cut the tyre at all... obviously dont have a sharp spade, and with the 'right' technique.. piece of piss... Office workers may not have the knack tho :blink:

[schrodingers cat]

CRC may bugger the rubber ...

CRC or WD40 will soften the rubber but not necessarily buggar it. Search online for tyre softening brews. Auto Tranny Fluid and CRC/WD are the main componants

[Shewolf]

ditto, haven't unpacked it yet - and after seeing the GS1200 bead breaker on their centre stand I want one! Think the DR would be heavy enough?


Lots of WD40.
I lifted the back of the builders van off the ground using the technique in the vid.

Now I've got a Torpedo7 tyre stand/bead breaker.
Haven't used it on the DR rear yet though.

[pete376403]

this works well (at home - might be a bit of an issue out on the trails)

[BMWST?]

popped round to help Eddie this afternoon.All comments above have some aspect of the truth in this case.The bloody tyre was virtually glued to the rim.
There was virtually no give in the tyre at all.

90 kg on the heel of my boot barely moved it

The gspd tilted over on its sidestand didnt do it although it seemed it nearly cut the tyre in two.

So we tried the carjack under the towbar cos there isnt enough room under the car(we did chock the wheels first).The first time we had bottomed the jack on the ground and ran out of travel and the tyre still didnt pop of.The second(third counting the gs attempt) we used a block of wood to space the jack back a bit so we could get more push before the jack ran out of travel.

Worst thing is when it did pop off it made hardly a sound

Putting the new one was easy in comparison,pretty roadie type tyre though,Eddie used his new tyre tool thingy worked not to bad

[Hugo Nougo]

Great to see the tyre didn't win, for future reference I have a portable device (not motorcycle portable) for bead-breaking in TeMarua if anyone needs it.

[Box'a'bits]

Good to see you finally got it. That's how I do it on Gus. Shudder to think what it would be like to fix a flat on the trail if the bead sticks like it has a few time here. But as Andy noted, the tyres move better if there is a bit of temp in them (for instance not long after you discover you've a flat :laugh:.

[Shewolf]

was that an E09 on the back? cos they're wider slightly aren't they? Mine was a right bast to get off too :angry:

[Eddieb]

Yeah that tyre was well stuck on, BMWST's pic shows how far the tyre had to be compressed to break the bead. I have a E39 5 series BMW which are a pretty heavy car, the cars rear suspension was topped out and the tyres just resting on the ground before the bead broke. Bugger trying to do an E-09 in the field unless the bead breaks before you stop.

All done now though, the rim with the E-07 fitted back on the blue bike. The E-09 removed off George's rim and replaced with a V-Rubber thing I had in the back of the garage, wheel was refitted along with new rear brake pads plus the rear shock moved to the lowered position and the forks dropped through the clamps a bit.

[Eddieb]

was that an E09 on the back? cos they're wider slightly aren't they? Mine was a right bast to get off too :angry:

It was a 140 E-09 too so wider than stock sizing.

[NordieBoy]

Good to see you finally got it. That's how I do it on Gus. Shudder to think what it would be like to fix a flat on the trail if the bead sticks like it has a few time here. But as Andy noted, the tyres move better if there is a bit of temp in them (for instance not long after you discover you've a flat :laugh:.

As I've posted before, I rode home 30km with a flat rear and spent 45 mins breaking the bead. Ended up with heaps of WD40, centre stand of DR, standing on footpeg above tyre, pushing up on shed rafter...

That same tyre, I broke the bead in jandles another time.

[FJRider]

That same tyre, I broke the bead in jandles another time.

It begs the question ... if after all the trouble the first time ... what made you want to try it in jandle's ... ???

[BMWST?]

It begs the question ... if after all the trouble the first time ... what made you want to try it in jandle's ... ???


he said jandles not jandals FJ,sheesh who would try it jandals:not:

[BMWST?]

Good to see you finally got it. That's how I do it on Gus. Shudder to think what it would be like to fix a flat on the trail if the bead sticks like it has a few time here. But as Andy noted, the tyres move better if there is a bit of temp in them (for instance not long after you discover you've a flat :laugh:.


it s hard to beleive that anytyre could be any more stuck on than that one but spose a tubless rim could be worse!?

[FJRider]

he said jandles not jandals FJ,sheesh who would try it jandals:not:

Am I the only one with spell check ... ??? :shutup:

[BMWST?]

Am I the only one with spell check ... ??? :shutup:


apparently :yes:

[NordieBoy]

It begs the question ... if after all the trouble the first time ... what made you want to try it in jandle's ... ???

Because barefoot didn't work...

[FJRider]

Because barefoot didn't work...

Logical when you think about it ... :yes:


oh wait ... :facepalm:

[NordieBoy]

Logical when you think about it ... :yes:


oh wait ... :facepalm:

Hands first, then feet, then feet with jandals...

Samoan safety shoes FTW.

[Horney1]

[QUOTE=Eddieb;1130394089]I'm trying to pop the bead on my E-09 shod DR650 rear rim but I'm having no luck, any suggestions?

....QUOTE]

Good to see you got it Eddie!

You'll be OK if you're out riding with me, mate. I've usually got my bead breaker with me :laugh: & if you're really lucky I'll have a rubber hammer with me to put the tyre back on - no shit! You didn't think that was all food in my saddlebags, did you?

IMPORTANT TIP for puncture repairs in the bush - make sure you have a valve tool & NON-hardened vulcanising glue! - things just don't seem to go as planned if those two are missing.

On the CRC thing, most of the time if a tyre is coming off it's being replaced, so no problem killing it with CRC etc.

I think NordieBoy was the only one that mentioned using a bikestand to break the bead. I've heard using the sidestand suggested before but haven't tried it, it's worth remembering though.

[NordieBoy]

On the CRC thing, most of the time if a tyre is coming off it's being replaced, so no problem killing it with CRC etc.

Killing with CRC?

[Eddieb]

IMPORTANT TIP for puncture repairs in the bush - make sure you have a valve tool & NON-hardened vulcanising glue! - things just don't seem to go as planned if those two are missing.
...
I think NordieBoy was the only one that mentioned using a bikestand to break the bead. I've heard using the sidestand suggested before but haven't tried it, it's worth remembering though.

I tried using the DR sidestand and no joy so when BMWST got here we tried using the sidestand on his 250kg BMW and that still didn't phase the tyre at all.

I usually carry a spare tube with me rather than patches, I can't be ass'd faffing around with patches on the road if possible, just check a new tube in and do the patch at home.

[Rosie]

I usually carry a spare tube with me rather than patches, I can't be ass'd faffing around with patches on the road if possible, just check a new tube in and do the patch at home.

We carry both. Patches and glue take up next-to-no space - and you can get puncture repair kits off T7 for $1, so there is no excuse for not carrying a brand new tube of glue.
I agree that you don't want to be patching on the side of the road, but it's always good to have a plan B. Apparently it's really easy to pinch a tube when you are reinstalling it, even if you are in practice and think you are being really careful :facepalm:

[BMWST?]

I tried using the DR sidestand and no joy so when BMWST got here we tried using the sidestand on his 250kg BMW and that still didn't phase the tyre at all.

I usually carry a spare tube with me rather than patches, I can't be ass'd faffing around with patches on the road if possible, just check a new tube in and do the patch at home.


the Beemer looked like the sidestand might cut into the tyre...the bead didnt even look like it was gonna pop off

[warewolf]

On the CRC thing, most of the time if a tyre is coming off it's being replaced, so no problem killing it with CRC etc.Not in my garage. I change tyres when I change terrain. But I've got proper wheels :bleh: that don't require the aforementioned shenanigans to get the tyre off.


I agree that you don't want to be patching on the side of the road, but it's always good to have a plan B. Yep. First puncture: change the tube. Subsequent punctures: patch it.

[That looks like fun]

I used the side stand of my wife's bike to break the bead on tyres I changed at home :clap:











Until she caught me doing it :angry2:

[gav24]

Yep those 17 inch dr rears are a bar steward to break the bead on...:brick:
I was gonna fit a tyre clamp to mine to stop the tyre slipping and ripping the valve off (like on every other MX - enduro bike), but when I changed the rear tyre I saw that Suzuki had already thought of that with the rim / tyre gripping capabilities of the standard setup!
Still a good thread though and lots of new ideas for next tyre change time... Oh the joys!

I wonder if it makes a difference what lube you use to put the tyre on with - I use swarfega and that seems to act like a glue as much as anything else...

[pomgolian]

Darn tyres - tried to remove a rear T63 on my DR much cussing later found a piece of wood 3x3 placed under tyre then jump on wheel two jumps and off it came, not sure i want to carry a piece of wood around so hoping if i do get a puncture on the trail i hope the the tyre gets hot and comes off the bead before i stop.

[BMWST?]

I am pretty sure the problem with Ediies tyre was partly caused by the tyre lube used to mount the tyre had turned to glue when we tried to dismount it

[dino3310]

one reason i love using the crc

[Woodman]

I just use whatever car wash/wax that is in the shed to mount the tyres. Mind you klr rims don,t have whatever drs have that make them a pita.

[CrazyFrog]

I just use whatever car wash/wax that is in the shed to mount the tyres. Mind you klr rims don,t have whatever drs have that make them a pita.

If any of you Nelson guys want some proper tyre shop rim lube (errr, sounds a bit rude) let me know, you can have some for free. It's a glycerine water based gel (basically, jellified soap), I've got a 3/4 full pail of it that I'll never get through in a lifetime. They even recommend it as a tyre shine product for those who may be inclined. Not.
Keep some in your workshop or put a small portable pot of it in your bike tool kit. Smear it on last 1/4 of bead to assist with tyre change, and any excess washes off with water. The issues with using CRC, is that shit stays slippery for days, and there is the possibity of tyre turning on rim once fitted.

[Waipukbiker]

When I was doing truck tyres I just used industrial hand cleaner(Non gritty). Same as above, water soluble.

[NordieBoy]

I still like wd40...

[dino3310]

The issues with using CRC, is that shit stays slippery for days, and there is the possibity of tyre turning on rim once fitted.

Not.... quite often i'd spray it on then get distracted by what ever then finally get back to the tyre half hour later and i gotta spray again as the bugga next to dried up, been using it for the last eight years with absolutely no problems what so ever, as for tyre turning on the rim, shite it aint that slippery... but i guess each to there own
when theres been no crc i use dish washing liquid and water with a paint brush.
in the drier weeks im changing the pigs tyres twice a week so the bead breakings quite easy, only useing the lube for that last bitch quarter bit of tyre to go on

[brp]

This dude knows his stuff - uses windex - think some window cleaner - so it evaporates


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[dino3310]

This dude knows his stuff - uses windex - think some window cleaner - so it evaporates


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

i notice all the tyre changing videos they use MX tyres... would like to see them doing a eo-7 on a DR 17".......on the side of a road:devil2:

[Transalper]

I noticed that too, always a nice soft pliable tyre.

[brp]

i notice all the tyre changing videos they use MX tyres... would like to see them doing a eo-7 on a DR 17".......on the side of a road:devil2:

eo7 18 140 went on easy following doug's way - 3 irons about 40 cm long

Side of the road ya flick transalper a text

[Transalper]

....
Side of the road ya flick transalper a text

:laugh::confused::eek: you bistard !!
I use two 22cm leavers and WD40 on everything... including DR650 wheels when I have to. I hate wheels with rimlocks though and you'll have to break your own bead.

[brp]

Yah doing well with just two 22 cm irons - old space shuttle oil still petroleum based eh not sure if best thing on rubber ?

Johnnybalastik on tardme hooked me up with the irons for a good price -


Leverage with decent length irons, window cleaner seems to really soften the rubber for a bit till dries off quick, in the sun helps too - pre-bake that beautiful checkoslavakin rubber

[JATZ]

:gob: 40cm irons ? :gob:
Pussy :bleh:
2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique :D
One of these days may show you young fullahs..... :Pokey:

[dino3310]

:gob: 40cm irons ? :gob:
Pussy :bleh:
2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique :D
One of these days may show you young fullahs..... :Pokey:

i use the 20cm ones:niceone:

[awayatc]

Wheel on bike, deflate tube, ride 300 metres up road, U turn - bead comes off rim now. Ride home with back end fishtailing. Tyre is now warm & pliable.

Agree......

As simple as that......

[Motu]

Swapped some tyres over yesterday - tubeless rims and I broke the bead with my crocs. They are tubed tyres though, tubeless on the same rims takes some serious effort.

[Kickaha]

tubeless on the same rims takes some serious effort.
It shouldn't make any difference, bead profiles should be the same it's normally the rim that is different

[cooneyr]

:gob: 40cm irons ? :gob:
Pussy :bleh:
2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique :D
One of these days may show you young fullahs..... :Pokey:

Here here. I'm with ya. Canny be bothered carrying 3x 40cm irons when on a ride so why use them at home.

Actually the real reason is that 40cm irons and poor technique could result in stuffed tyres. Proper technique means you only need a 22cm.

Cheers R

[clint640]

I can change a tyre quite happily with short irons but I got Rosie some of the long ones with the curved ends (michelin style??) mainly to make it easier to peel off the 2nd side, but they are rather nice all round, a good shaped tip plus the bend just make the job a liitle quicker & easier.

On the road you're usually only taking one side off & the tyre will be warm so it a piece of piss with short levers.

Cheers
Clint

[brp]

:gob: 40cm irons ? :gob:
Pussy :bleh:
2x 22 cm is all you need. It's all about technique :D
One of these days may show you young fullahs..... :Pokey:

What does that make the guy at firestone shirley that uses an iron 1m long ? :D

If I do the DB1 hopefully one of you guys won't have to show me how its done :)

[Rosie]

I can change a tyre quite happily with short irons but I got Rosie some of the long ones with the curved ends (michelin style??) mainly to make it easier to peel off the 2nd side, but they are rather nice all round, a good shaped tip plus the bend just make the job a liitle quicker & easier.

On the road you're usually only taking one side off & the tyre will be warm so it a piece of piss with short levers.

Cheers
Clint

Size matters :yes:
But I can still use the shorter levers if necessary.
We use watered down window cleaner to lube the tyre, and it seems to work well.

[Motu]

It shouldn't make any difference, bead profiles should be the same it's normally the rim that is different

Oh, so it's just me that I have to take my wheels with tubeless tyres to the tyre shop to break the bead, but I'm a tough guy when it comes to the K70? Another theory that doesn't work in practice.

[NordieBoy]

Oh, so it's just me that I have to take my wheels with tubeless tyres to the tyre shop to break the bead, but I'm a tough guy when it comes to the K70? Another theory that doesn't work in practice.

Yep. It's all psyco sykol all in your mind.

Be the tyre lever...




The front of the DR, you can use the heel of your hand to break the bead. The TT350 front and rear, likewise.
The 160x60x17 on the rear of the Nordwest? Riding 20km out of the Rainbow at speeds up to 60kph didn't pop it off or loosen it at all...

[cooneyr]

......If I do the DB1 hopefully one of you guys won't have to show me how its done :)

Just make sure you bring something the right size to remove the axle. One pre run I didn't :facepalm: 32mm is a large socket, even for a cocky.


Size matters :yes:
But I can still use the shorter levers if necessary.
We use watered down window cleaner to lube the tyre, and it seems to work well.

Even if size does matter, at least you know how to make use of what you've got. Even got the lube well sorted :laugh:

Sorry Rosie - that was too easy.


.....The front of the DR, you can use the heel of your hand to break the bead. The TT350 front and rear, likewise.
The 160x60x17 on the rear of the Nordwest? Riding 20km out of the Rainbow at speeds up to 60kph didn't pop it off or loosen it at all...

Ya missed one - what about the rear of the DR?


(quite day at work - either that or I'm trying to avoid something!)

Cheers R

[NordieBoy]

Ya missed one - what about the rear of the DR?
That's been covered here. In gory detail :hitcher:

[brp]

Just make sure you bring something the right size to remove the axle. One pre run I didn't :facepalm: 32mm is a large socket, even for a cocky.

Cheerz R - Very good point


(Rosie - I thought its not the size of the wand but the magician behind it)

[warewolf]

CRC and WD40 dry to a tacky waxy sticky substance - no good for long term light-duty lube. Never used it on a tyre. Dish soap can be trapped in the bead and not washed out till you start spinning up the wheel and flexing the bead in wet sloppy mud, when it first becomes a lube again then eventually is washed away.

Get a small pump-spray bottle of lens cleaner, dilute up to 50% with water, refill with windex from a big bottle. Cheap as chips. Multi-function as it can also be used to clean your visor or goggles. Creates just enough short-term lube to get the tyre on.

Whilst the long fancy levers are very nice (the KTM ones are majick!) they aren't required and the sharp points can scratch and gouge the rims very easily. I use two shorty levers, and even then the second is only used to get the second bite when getting the first side off. Three levers might be useful if you are an octopus, but for me they just create two extra things you have to move outta your way.

To get the tyre completely off, flip it over and lift the second side out just like the first, so that the rim ends up inside the tyre. Stand the whole lot up, separate the tyre and rim, and push the top of the tyre down so you can lift the rim up and out. I've been shown - and tried/used - lots of ways; this is the easiest of them all for me.

[Rosie]

(Rosie - I thought its not the size of the wand but the magician behind it)

This magician likes her long levers :facepalm: two of them, plus one short lever. I use my knee or the back of my leg to hold the third one, octopus-stylez. :mellow:

[brp]

"Good On Ya Gal" :niceone: