GSX-R set valve question

[tbs]

I recently removed the catalytic converter and stock slip-on from my k8 GSX-R 600. Actually I bought a whole OEM system off trademe for $20 and then cut the cat off that, got a wee bit of pipe welded in to suit a k6-7 slip-on, and then when I had everything ready I dropped my whole system out and bolted in the new set-up. To do this I had to disconnect the set valve cables, and then re-adjust them later, as the new headers had the cable stop bracket in a fractionally different place. I checked the adjustment so that it opens and then closes again when I turn on the key, but damned if I can get rid of the F1 light.
I've read on gixxer.com that you have to set it up with a multi-meter, and that most people just disconnect it and pull the F1 pin from the ECU, but I'd really rather have it working. Someone on gixxer.com asked this same question.... how do I set it up correctly so the light stops coming on? No-one could actually answer the question and they all just said to disconnect.

So... Does anyone know how to set it up correctly? I'd rather leave it functioning if possible, since my bike does 90% commuting duties.

[Pussy]

I have successfully adjusted SET cables many times. Easier for me to do it than explain it all though. You would be welcome to visit and I could do it for you. Can be a bugger of a job. I too would rather have a functioning SET.

[tbs]

Thanks for the invite..... It is a nice ride to New Plymouth.

I've got the valve working ok. As far as I can see it shouldn't be rocket science to set a bit of cable tension. It's just the red light on the dash that's annoying.

AJ from Motohaus suggested pulling the pin on the ECU and then plugging it back in to see if that re-sets it.

I'll try that for now.

[Pussy]

The "FI" light will be on bescause the cables are not adjusted to the specific tension.
When the SET is adjusted spot on, they give little trouble.

[tbs]

The "FI" light will be on bescause the cables are not adjusted to the specific tension.
When the SET is adjusted spot on, they give little trouble.

The lower cable had a bit of slack which I tried to replicate. Does that sound right?

[Pussy]

There are specific voltages that need to be measured when the valve is fully closed and fully opened. it is easy to stuff up the servo motor if the job isn't done correctly. It's not just a matter of getting the slack out of the cables.

[Tony.OK]

Try disconnecting one cable at a time and turning bike on, at least you may find out which one isn't set right.
Any reason for wanting the cables even on there? The set valve is sprung loaded open without cables connected isn't it?

[tbs]

Try disconnecting one cable at a time and turning bike on, at least you may find out which one isn't set right.
Any reason for wanting the cables even on there? The set valve is sprung loaded open without cables connected isn't it?

As far as I understand it, having the valve closed at low revs creates a bit of back pressure which actually boosts low end power. I'm sure I'm having to use a bit more throttle off the line since I fitted the straight through pipe.

[tbs]

After a bit of reading last night I was worried that my poor set-up might be damaging the servo motor, so this morning I removed the pulley from the servo motor and zip tied it out of the way, leaving the cables connected, but with the valve open wide. Then I pulled the pin on the ECU to get rid of the red light.

Damn, if I thought the Micron pipe was a bit loud before, it's really loud now. I wanted more volume, but I think now it's too much. Gonna have to hook it back up again.

I downloaded the service manual for the bike, and had a read. Am I right in thinking that I have to get a special switch to plug into the servo for set-up?

[SVboy]

Can I suggest you research GIXXER.com on this matter. The general concensus is Suzuki put them on to pass DB levels at low revs-ie they do nothing. I recently took the plunge and removed the cables, servo and pin from my k6 600. Nothing but win. I highly doubt they enhance low to mid range. If you are running an aftermarket slipon, you would probably do a lot better with a PowerCommander V and some dyno time.

[tbs]

Thanks for the input guys.
In the end I just got a bike shop to hook the valve back up and adjust the fueling while I was having a new rear tire put on the bike. It's better, especially at very low revs. SVboy, I could feel the difference without the valve, and with the particular pipe I'm running, it it was just too annoyingly loud without the valve running.