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Redneck_rebel
1st October 2012, 17:42
As the title says i went to change the oil and filter on my YZ (first time its been done since its previous owner) and the 1 of the 3 allan headed bolts is completly stripped round and over tightened beyond buggery. Lots of foul language was used when i found this and the urge to hunt down previous owner and kick them in the head Haha. so Boys and girls, what should i do? what would you do?
cheers

barty5
1st October 2012, 18:15
try a a set of hex drives if you can get some the have all the star type scokets etc get one that is a tight fit and tap in with a hammer or an allen key that is ever so slightly bigger either one should work.

FJRider
1st October 2012, 18:18
Unless you really know what to do ... Pay somebody that DOES to do it. So many things COULD go wrong ... really wrong ... :facepalm:

Colin Clyne Motorcycles ... main street northern end where the street narrows up. (next to the bakery)

Akzle
1st October 2012, 18:35
As the title says i went to change the oil and filter on my YZ (first time its been done since its previous owner) and the 1 of the 3 allan headed bolts is completly stripped round and over tightened beyond buggery. Lots of foul language was used when i found this and the urge to hunt down previous owner and kick them in the head Haha. so Boys and girls, what should i do? what would you do?
cheers

stud extractors. whack the next size one up in, tap handle that shit out. heat, crc, and an impact driver elsewise.

pete376403
1st October 2012, 19:29
SuperCheap do a low cost Dremel equivalent. If you can get at the bolt head, cut a slot across and use a flat blade screwdriver.

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Rockwell-Shopseries-Rotary-Tool-RS600K-160W.aspx?pid=135299&menuFrom=80208#Description

takitimu
2nd October 2012, 08:29
SuperCheap do a low cost Dremel equivalent. If you can get at the bolt head, cut a slot across and use a flat blade screwdriver.

That'd be my pick, use a hack saw blade to cut a slot, instead of a flat blade screwdriver a coal chisel is better though with vice grips for leverage ( not that I've ever done it of course :innocent: ) .

jellywrestler
2nd October 2012, 11:23
stud extractors. whack the next size one up in, tap handle that shit out. heat, crc, and an impact driver elsewise.

there's two types of stud removers , fluted and tapered. your advice is not going to help someone who has limited mechanical knowledge

HenryDorsetCase
2nd October 2012, 11:35
oooh. good luck. Worst case scenario involves sacrificing the cover. DAMHIK

I have used the cut a slot technique successfully but that depends on access. Plus your risk is breaking half the bolt head off. If that happens try and break the other half, remove the cover and then the stub should come out. Try and get some penetrating oil on it as well. the tapered screw extractors are OK but they can break the bolt as well.

Good luck. there are few things more frustrating I reckon.

Post up a photo if you can because if you can see the head you should be OK. If it is recessed you have a major issue.

takitimu
2nd October 2012, 11:37
Good point on the breaking half off if you cut a slot, you have to be careful you leave enough there so it is strong enough to turn without breaking off.

Redneck_rebel
2nd October 2012, 13:07
yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)

takitimu
2nd October 2012, 13:17
yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)

Damn, I'd probably go for drilling it out in prep for a helicoil, I'm kinda suspicious about it being thread locked or worse in there, I mean the bolt is stronger than the case right, so only so hard you can get em in.

HenryDorsetCase
2nd October 2012, 13:17
yeah have tried that and just made a bigger mess!! will put photos up later in the week, and btw i'm not an out right novice to mechanical stuff just bikes are different to what i usually play with (v8's)

order a new cover online, first, then you know if you fuck it up you're covered. If and when you win, you've a spare cover.

ktm84mxc
2nd October 2012, 14:37
You can get accessory covers for some brands and these are usually cheaper than genuine items , think DRC do one for the Yams or a GYTR yamaha.

Akzle
2nd October 2012, 19:49
there's two types of stud removers , fluted and tapered. your advice is not going to help someone who has limited mechanical knowledge

you're not trying very hard...


it will, a'cause if he has limited mechanical knowledge he's going to go to ta shop and say "i want some stud extractors, biyatch" and they'll say, "right this way sir"

(btw my stud extractors are tapered AND fluted.... you be trollin'?)

Blagger
3rd October 2012, 08:04
Last time I had a situation like this I was lucky enough that it was facing up - I put a circle of sealant around it then left a puddle of Kano Kroil penetrating oil over night.
Came back next day, cleaned it all off, preheated the area with gas, mig welded a 6" nail across it then let it cool. Came back to it with some gentle gas heating on the surrounding area and a bit of oil at the screw boundary and started gently easing it out using the extra leverage.

Was a bitch at first but easy after one turn.


I've also tried the slot cut method and also had it fail once

Good luck

jellywrestler
3rd October 2012, 09:23
, mig welded a 6" nail across
why weld a soft nail accross it instead of something solid? is there a theory behind that or are did you have some left over from your churchs easter play?

ktm84mxc
4th October 2012, 08:16
Never had that problem on a 2 stroke oops don't want to offend the 4 stroke boys.

DEATH_INC.
4th October 2012, 20:19
Just drill the head off. If it's a 6mm bolt (5mm hex usually) then drill it with a 6mm drill till the head of the bolt comes loose. Don't go any further. The hex hole will centralize the drill for ya. Pull the cover off and you'll be able to grab the protruding bolt shaft with some vice grips and get it out. Unless it's been cross threaded it'll be loose once the tension is gone.

CookMySock
6th October 2012, 20:20
Sometimes you can grind the head of the bolt down to the cover so theres no more head left, remove other bolts and slide the housing off. This will let you get at the bolt properly and heat and CRC it, and leave it overnight. It'll come out then. Yes, you will need a new bolt, but you need a new one anyway. :sunny:

jellywrestler
6th October 2012, 20:43
Just drill the head off. If it's a 6mm bolt (5mm hex usually) then drill it with a 6mm drill till the head of the bolt comes loose. Don't go any further. The hex hole will centralize the drill for ya. Pull the cover off and you'll be able to grab the protruding bolt shaft with some vice grips and get it out. Unless it's been cross threaded it'll be loose once the tension is gone.

think you'll find he's already cut a slot in it then snapped half off.....

Redneck_rebel
7th October 2012, 10:41
think you'll find he's already cut a slot in it then snapped half off.....

yes i have done that, thanks for all the suggestions fellas, I appreciate it, i have not taken any further action yet due to work but will get back in the shed on tuesday will definitly post pics of the progress then!!!

Redneck_rebel
10th October 2012, 15:55
quick update tried drilling the bolt head off. Took ages and blunted my drill bits. Got an old bolt that i dont need and tack welded it to the offending bolt head then got socket and ratchet and of it came after the torque was cracked it. Now heres the penny thats dropping the reason the dumb prick who perviously owned the bike prior to me did the bolts up so tight was becuase the dickhead installed the oil filter back to front . I only have had 5hrs use out of the bike how much damage do you think has been done becuase of incorrect oil filter installation
cheers

ktm84mxc
11th October 2012, 06:49
To be honest you'll have to get into the head and check for wear and tear on the cams and valve stems, plan on the worst case of a fucked head and piston\rings and then find the previous owner and try and get some money outta him or at least kick him in the nuts.
The cost to replace the cylinder head can be more then the bikes worth if you get the parts new from Yamaha NZ, best try EBay for 2nd hand in the states.

Redneck_rebel
17th October 2012, 12:11
wil probaly trade up if thats the case!!

Stylo
17th October 2012, 17:23
Any decent machine shop, welder will fix this for you for low cost. I recall, even on the old Yam TT600's you never over-tighten the 3 Allen keys on the oil filter cover - seems like nothings changed, typical Yamaha trait

pete376403
17th October 2012, 19:05
quick update tried drilling the bolt head off. Took ages and blunted my drill bits. Got an old bolt that i dont need and tack welded it to the offending bolt head then got socket and ratchet and of it came after the torque was cracked it. Now heres the penny thats dropping the reason the dumb prick who perviously owned the bike prior to me did the bolts up so tight was becuase the dickhead installed the oil filter back to front . I only have had 5hrs use out of the bike how much damage do you think has been done becuase of incorrect oil filter installation
cheers

Best case is that the oil went through without being filtered - in 5 hours use (if the oil was fresh and uncontaminated) shouldn't be any damage at all.
Worst case - no oil could pass through - the engine is probably history. After 5 hours you would have heard it / felt the vibrations and most likely the engine would have locked up

Redneck_rebel
18th October 2012, 12:37
Best case is that the oil went through without being filtered - in 5 hours use (if the oil was fresh and uncontaminated) shouldn't be any damage at all.
Worst case - no oil could pass through - the engine is probably history. After 5 hours you would have heard it / felt the vibrations and most likely the engine would have locked up

well its still runs and pulls like a tractor. has a bit of a rattle at idle though! from there upwards it seems fine!
I bought the bike at a dealer. went there today told them the situ, turns out they rebuilt and serviced the bike before they sold it to me. they tolde me to bring it in they will check it over and repair and damage that this has caused or worst case scenario rebuild the engine for free. so i'm happy with that! They are a bunch of good cunts at colin clyne motorcycles in oamaru highly recommend them if any of you live in north otago!!!!

Blagger
18th October 2012, 18:00
well its still runs and pulls like a tractor. has a bit of a rattle at idle though! from there upwards it seems fine!
I bought the bike at a dealer. went there today told them the situ, turns out they rebuilt and serviced the bike before they sold it to me. they tolde me to bring it in they will check it over and repair and damage that this has caused or worst case scenario rebuild the engine for free. so i'm happy with that! They are a bunch of good cunts at colin clyne motorcycles in oamaru highly recommend them if any of you live in north otago!!!!

People give dealers a lot of shit and even though it is basic stuff it's good to hear of some decent customer service

barty5
18th October 2012, 18:37
my yzf450 08 had a rattle at idle that went with a few revs it more just the way they are mate did a whole lot a looking into it on his wr and it was put down to the carb slide rattling at low revs reverbs through the whole motor (im only repeating what was told and he found out after a lot of looking and question asking)
al lot of it will also be the auto decomp once worn (spring ) will lose tension it rattles put in gear hold brakes and load up clutch with revs if noise disapears that will be what it is = dont over stress

Redneck_rebel
18th October 2012, 19:48
cheers bart

green machine
18th October 2012, 19:53
well its still runs and pulls like a tractor. has a bit of a rattle at idle though! from there upwards it seems fine!
I bought the bike at a dealer. went there today told them the situ, turns out they rebuilt and serviced the bike before they sold it to me. they tolde me to bring it in they will check it over and repair and damage that this has caused or worst case scenario rebuild the engine for free. so i'm happy with that! They are a bunch of good cunts at colin clyne motorcycles in oamaru highly recommend them if any of you live in north otago!!!!

I'm new to Yamaha's mate,always had Kawasakis before then.......the first thing i noticed is the noise they make(450's),they sound like tractors compared to the Kawis.....i was so paranoid at first but i'm used to it now,any Yz450 i've heard sounds the same......i did heaps of reading on here which put my mind at ease
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/479304-07-yz450-engine-noise/page__hl__rattle

Metal Doctor
26th October 2012, 13:45
As the title says i went to change the oil and filter on my YZ (first time its been done since its previous owner) and the 1 of the 3 allan headed bolts is completly stripped round and over tightened beyond buggery. Lots of foul language was used when i found this and the urge to hunt down previous owner and kick them in the head Haha. so Boys and girls, what should i do? what would you do?
cheers

Same thing happened to me on my ktm. i tried every thing with no luck! so i got engineering on it!

Rounded sump bolt, i drilled a small hole through the head of the bolt then pushed a hard metal pin through so the spanner jammed against it, the it came undone!

Oil strainer bolt, there was nothing else left to do bot to weld a imact driver to it!!!!!!!