Odd 5th Gear?

[Glowerss]

The bike is a 97 Honda Hornet 250 that I grabbed last week. Bikes in pretty damn good condition.

5th gear is a bit odd, however.

The gist of it, is that when in fifth, you get ... lumps is the only way I can think to describe it, through the footpegs and seat. Basically, it feels as if you're riding over a bit of road with bumps at regular say, quarter second intervals. There's a stretch of road near my house that's just been resealed. It's smooth as in all gears except for fifth. It's not severe bumps, but it's definitely noticeable. Faster you go, shorter the interval between the lumps. The engine note sounds a bit off as well, almost as if it's chopping. Instead of the smooth IL4 sound you get breaks in the sound. Bit hard to tell definitively, however, as in 5th you're doing 50+ kph so the wind nosie is a bit up :bleh:

This definitely seems odd (to me anyway) considering the rest of the bike is super smooth.

Is this something that I should be worried about/get checked out? It doesn't particularly bother me aside from I'm not sure what's causing it and or if it's a problem (or how serious if it is). Happy to not use 5th gear if it comes down to that :bleh:

Information is appreciated <3 Not looking to get too into specifics (IE take this apart and see ect). I'm not comfortable taking shit apart at this stage, more sort of looking at, should I waste time getting somebody to check it out or nah don't worry about it, its probably not an issue.

Cheers <3

[Maha]

Might have a tight spot in the chain (at a guess)..that can guise itself as 'lumpy'.
Go check the tension.

[Glowerss]

Might have a tight spot in the chain (at a guess)..that can guise itself as 'lumpy'.
Go check the tension.

Will do that. Any idea why it would only affect 5th? Wouldn't it affect the others as well? Not mechanically inclined but working on learning!

[Maha]

Will do that. Any idea why it would only affect 5th? Wouldn't it affect the others as well? Not mechanically inclined but working on learning!

More noticable in a higher gear at lower revs, can feel like a surge?....if it is the chain, the seller would have known this but them the brakes...and no, its not the brakes.
But I would get it checked out...Botany Honda close to you?

[Glowerss]

More noticable in a higher gear at lower revs, can feel like a surge?....if it is the chain, the seller would have known this but them the brakes...and no, its not the brakes.
But I would get it checked out...Botany Honda close to you?

Out west at the mo. Seller is a mate of a mate sort of deal, so I doubt he knew if that's the case. Wouldn't you notice it in 6th though as well? 6th is Smooth as all the way up and down the range.

[Maha]

Out west at the mo. Seller is a mate of a mate sort of deal, so I doubt he knew if that's the case. Wouldn't you notice it in 6th though as well? 6th is Smooth as all the way up and down the range.

Yes you would, I am probably wrong on my below average assessment.
Could be even worse, if its a selected gear replacement...all the same, if you can't get a definitive answer on here within a day or two, get it checked out asap...could save you money.
Out west?...Tony Frost may be able to help you.

[Haggis2]

but them the brakes...and no, its not the brakes.

Breaks :niceone:

[Maha]

They aren't broken.

[bogan]

Check for simple things like chain tension/wear sprocket wear and cush drive play, if it isn't any of those things, it might be something in the gearbox that needs looking at.

[Akzle]

high spot on teh gear.
or some crazy firing issue.
but most likely high spot on the gear. someone dropped some gravel in when they topped up the oil, got ground between the teeth once or twice, then became part of it.

time to learn to split a box and get handy with a file!

[Glowerss]

Check for simple things like chain tension/wear sprocket wear and cush drive play, if it isn't any of those things, it might be something in the gearbox that needs looking at.


high spot on teh gear.
or some crazy firing issue.
but most likely high spot on the gear. someone dropped some gravel in when they topped up the oil, got ground between the teeth once or twice, then became part of it.

time to learn to split a box and get handy with a file!

Assuming it isn't the chain/sprockets, does it sound like something thats likely to get worse and eventually break something serious? Or potentially just a "character feature" ?

I realize it's hard as to give a guess over the interwebz! Definitely plan on having it serviced soon as the old bike sells, but would like a guess at how vigorously I should be persuing it.

[steve_t]

I'm gonna put my money on a tooth on 5th gear having sheared off... sorry

[bogan]

I realize it's hard as to give a guess over the interwebz! Definitely plan on having it serviced soon as the old bike sells, but would like a guess at how vigorously I should be persuing it.

My advice is don't use it unless you are taking it to get the problem fixed, or are in the process of fixing the problem.

[Glowerss]

My advice is don't use it unless you are taking it to get the problem fixed, or are in the process of fixing the problem.

The bike, or 5th? Not using the bike be Nigh impossible, as it's only form of transport and not got the fund currently to have it looked at.

[bogan]

The bike, or 5th? Not using the bike be Nigh impossible, as it's only form of transport and not got the fund currently to have it looked at.

The bike; if there is no other option, do an oil and filter change and if nothing metal comes out you could probably get away with just not using 5th.

Imo, if its your only form of transport, you can't afford not to sort it out.

[Drew]

Sounds internal from you description, but it might not be.

Oil is cheap, so do a simple test. Into a clean container, drain your oil. There will usually be some metal on the magnetic sump plug, but not heaps. Also, there shouldn't be fuck all in the oil in the container after it is drained.

[Glowerss]

I'll do an oil change tomorrow then n see what comes out. Hopefully nothing malignant :doh: :no:

Good news, I guess, is George from Moto doctors is coming over to do an inspection on the bike I'm selling for some other bloke. Might be able to fleece him for some info before he scoots after hes done I suppose.

[Akzle]

Assuming it isn't the chain/sprockets, does it sound like something thats likely to get worse and eventually break something serious? Or potentially just a "character feature" ?

I realize it's hard as to give a guess over the interwebz! Definitely plan on having it serviced soon as the old bike sells, but would like a guess at how vigorously I should be persuing it.

if i twere yu, i would rule out teh chain and sprockets. by checking the chain and sprockets. make sure chain is adjusted properlike. usually that's 1-2" of sag if you're palming it solo.

a gearbox split is a bit more than a "service".

if the other guy is right, and it's missing teeth, it's facking dangerous. a rear wheel lockup is going to be interesting at 5th gear speeds, not to mention engines don't like going from thousands of revs to no revs, shortly. things like crankshafts especially.

if i'm right (far more likely, by anyone's measure :D) and it's shit in the pinions'es teethses, it will not be catastrophic until the tooth breaks off (see above) however, better dealt to sooner than later, though.
if your sump plug isn't magnetised, get a magnet and stick it on the outside. neodymium is cool. go for a ride (warm oil, and shit stirring), then drain it.

[bogan]

Here's an out of the box (well, technically its about leaving it all in the box) idea. How about put the bike into 5th on the center stand, put a bit of clutch on for a constant drag (may need to get your mate to help here), and turn the rear wheel by hand. You might be able to feel where it is going wrong, and by the feel of it, work out what has gone wrong.

[Akzle]

Here's an out of the box (well, technically its about leaving it all in the box) idea. How about put the bike into 5th on the center stand, put a bit of clutch on for a constant drag (may need to get your mate to help here), and turn the rear wheel by hand. You might be able to feel where it is going wrong, and by the feel of it, work out what has gone wrong.

((he had to ask KB about this shit, finding the spot on teh gear isn't going to help him much, tell him to start marking shafts and working out reduction ratios... he's going to shit.))

in fifth you should be able to turn the engine over quite easily by spinning the rear wheel...

[pete376403]

What sort of engine revs is it doing at 50k in 5th gear? I'd expect a little 4 cylinder motor to want to be spinning fairly well and at low-ish revs it may not be making enough power to pull 5th gear smoothly. (otoh, if its a six speed and can pull similar revs on 6th without issues then its something else)

[Glowerss]

She pulls pretty damn well at 4-5k RPM in 5th without much problem. Same in 6th really. 6th gear you can go from 50-60kph all the way up. Has some fairly fuckin good pull for a 250 IL4 really. Pulls infinitely harder lower then my ZZR250 did.

It doesn't seem like its struggling to pull in 5th at lower RPM.

Iunno it could be chain/sprocket. Will give it a check tomorrow once home from work.

The chain was admitted to be a cheap shit chain from the guy selling it, and the bike had been sitting for a month-month and a half I bought it. The guy selling it and NZspokes on here did an oil change on it before letting her sit, and they said there was nothing dodgy in the oil then. Both reckoned it was running fine before sitting. Chain looks a bit rusty on the outside, don't know if that would affect anything.

I don't know the guy selling it very well, but I'd trust anything spokes would have to say about it.

[ducatilover]

Have you tried loading it up at the same revs in every gear? (I'm assuming you have)
I think it'd be doing around 4500 in 5th at 50?
And does it start it from right down in the revs (say 2500) and where does it become less noticeable?
I wouldn't think it'd be having gearbox issues, they're generally very strong in the box (I had a missus like that)

I'll be up that way next week, I could come flip it and then you can stop worrying about it?

[Glowerss]

Have you tried loading it up at the same revs in every gear? (I'm assuming you have)
I think it'd be doing around 4500 in 5th at 50?
And does it start it from right down in the revs (say 2500) and where does it become less noticeable?
I wouldn't think it'd be having gearbox issues, they're generally very strong in the box (I had a missus like that)

I'll be up that way next week, I could come flip it and then you can stop worrying about it?

Yeah, it's around say 4500-5k rpm at 55-60ish in 5th. Finding a smooth road around my place that's quite is an absolute bugger. Bunch of munted bumpy ass roads here makes fiddling with things a right pain!

Piddling around today, I didn't test 6th, but it's definitely absent of anything in 1st through 4th. I'd have to find an absolutely glass smooth road to know for sure 4th is OK, but it feels fine comparatively to 5th.

To clarify, it isn't.....like running over cats eyes lumpy. It really is bumpy road sort of shit coming through the pegs and seat. You wouldn't know it was there going over a crappy road. But on smooth tarmac, it's pretty obvious. It's very regular, and changing gears clears it out immediately.

Anyway, I pissed around on the roads near my house when I could find some clear stretches. 1-4 are fine. 5th it's much less noticeable below say 4k rpm, and becomes more evident the more throttle on you have. I took it up to 80kph and it didn't really become less noticeable, just more frequent.

It does appear to only occur on throttle on. If you're coasting it's completely fine. Minor if you're gently on the throttle and then very evident if you're maintaining or speeding up.

I checked the chain today. Nothing screams at me as being drastically wrong. You can pull the chain off the sprocket a bit, maybe a millimeter or two (I suck at metric, probably a quarter of an inch or slightly less). So it might be a little bit loose but nothing drastically wrong to my untrained eye.

[nzspokes]

[QUOTE=Glowerss;1130428820]Yeah, it's around say 4500-5k rpm at 55-60ish in 5th. QUOTE]

Try riding in a better gear. thats way to low in the RPM for that speed. You wont be able to react. Its sweet spot will be around 7 to 8 k i would have thought.

[Maha]

[QUOTE=Glowerss;1130428820]Yeah, it's around say 4500-5k rpm at 55-60ish in 5th. QUOTE]

Its sweet spot will be around 7 to 8 k i would have thought.

A little higher up Rob if you want her to come back for more.....:corn:

[Glowerss]

[QUOTE=Glowerss;1130428820]Yeah, it's around say 4500-5k rpm at 55-60ish in 5th. QUOTE]

Try riding in a better gear. thats way to low in the RPM for that speed. You wont be able to react. Its sweet spot will be around 7 to 8 k i would have thought.

It doesn't matter a whole lot if you're just cruising down a 50kph in traffic really. Either way, speeding up doesn't seem to make much of a difference. It was still off at 80kph which is probably around 8k rpm. I can cruise in 6th actually at 50kph and its smooth as

[Akzle]

I checked the chain today. Nothing screams at me as being drastically wrong. You can pull the chain off the sprocket a bit, maybe a millimeter or two (I suck at metric, probably a quarter of an inch or slightly less). So it might be a little bit loose but nothing drastically wrong to my untrained eye.

chain tension is measured about half way between sprocket centres. should have about 1-2" sag/movement up an down like.
if it has less, then when you put your fat ass on it, it will become taught, which f*cks shit up.
it it has more, you'll get similar symptoms to what you describe, but usually through all gears, and slowing up as well as speeding down, as the rollers miss the pitch...

:scratch: ...nothing to do with pulling it off teh sproket

[Drew]

A 1/4 inch is 6.35mm. If you can pull the chain that far off the sprocket, at the rear most part of the sprocket, you need a new chain...nomatter what else...no question...I feel I've made my point on this note.

Anyhoo. I doubt it will be that simple.

[Glowerss]

chain tension is measured about half way between sprocket centres. should have about 1-2" sag/movement up an down like.
if it has less, then when you put your fat ass on it, it will become taught, which f*cks shit up.
it it has more, you'll get similar symptoms to what you describe, but usually through all gears, and slowing up as well as speeding down, as the rollers miss the pitch...

:scratch: ...nothing to do with pulling it off teh sproket

Ok, yes I'm an idiot and was "doing it wrong". Assuming I'm doing it right this time (measuring the travel distance of the top of the chain at its lowest point to the bottom of the chain at the highest point in the middle most part between the two sprockets) it looks like theres a slack of well over 2" (it's being stopped from going higher by the swingarm :gob: ) Looks like a good place to start!


A 1/4 inch is 6.35mm. If you can pull the chain that far off the sprocket, at the rear most part of the sprocket, you need a new chain...nomatter what else...no question...I feel I've made my point on this note.

Anyhoo. I doubt it will be that simple.

Yeah, you're right. My guess was way the fuck off :sweatdrop Sticking to rulers from now on.

[Akzle]

Ok, yes I'm an idiot and was "doing it wrong". Assuming I'm doing it right this time (measuring the travel distance of the top of the chain at its lowest point to the bottom of the chain at the highest point in the middle most part between the two sprockets) it looks like theres a slack of well over 2" (it's being stopped from going higher by the swingarm :gob: ) Looks like a good place to start!



Yeah, you're right. My guess was way the fuck off :sweatdrop Sticking to rulers from now on.

and here we've just solved your problem. thanks internet.

BUT, you measure from the same point on your chain, ie, a pin, against something that doesn't move on your bike, ie chain guard, swingarm etc.
chain pushed all the way up, v. chain let fall all the way down.

i'd say more than 2" slack if you're not two up is way heaps much. i may stand to be corrected?

(ps, we professionals call them a rule, not a ruler.)

[bogan]

and here we've just solved your problem. thanks internet.

BUT, you measure from the same point on your chain, ie, a pin, against something that doesn't move on your bike, ie chain guard, swingarm etc.
chain pushed all the way up, v. chain let fall all the way down.

i'd say more than 2" slack if you're not two up is way heaps much. i may stand to be corrected?

(ps, we professionals call them a rule, not a ruler.)

Two up shouldn't make a difference. The ideal amount of slack changes from bike to bike (mine is around 80mm), however it is commonly around 30mm. The ideal slack for any bike can be found by fully compressing the suspenion (I take it out and just move the swingarm to the fully compressed position), then tightening the chain right up, back off a few mm, then measure the slack in the uncompressed position. Or if you ain't a modder, just RTFM!

Also, we engineers still call em rulers, but tend to favor calipers instead.

[Akzle]

Two up shouldn't make a difference. The ideal amount of slack changes from bike to bike (mine is around 80mm), however it is commonly around 30mm. The ideal slack for any bike can be found by fully compressing the suspenion (I take it out and just move the swingarm to the fully compressed position), then tightening the chain right up, back off a few mm, then measure the slack in the uncompressed position. Or if you ain't a modder, just RTFM!

Also, we engineers still call em rulers, but tend to favor calipers instead.

i said professional, not engineer :tugger:. and i can only assume you mean verniers, as caliper is an adjective, not a noun.

second RTFM.

-edit-
*or a pair of calipers, of the measuring sense.

[bogan]

i said professional, not engineer :tugger:. and i can only assume you mean verniers, as caliper is an adjective, not a noun.

second RTFM.

Actually verniers refers to the older style, which use the vernier scale, us engineers like to use digital calipers to save time. But I guess saving time is higher priority to those of us in more useful professions?

[Glowerss]

and here we've just solved your problem. thanks internet.

BUT, you measure from the same point on your chain, ie, a pin, against something that doesn't move on your bike, ie chain guard, swingarm etc.
chain pushed all the way up, v. chain let fall all the way down.

i'd say more than 2" slack if you're not two up is way heaps much. i may stand to be corrected?

(ps, we professionals call them a rule, not a ruler.)

Well regardless of how you measure it, there's definitely more then the necessary amount of slack in the chain. Twice as much as the 250 kwacka I'm trying to sell. You can push it right up against the bottom of the swingarm.

Hopefully it sorts the issue out :woohoo: It's such a fabulous bike don't want to fuss with it, just ride :ride:

Cheers for the help gents. Always great advice from the technical crowd.

[Ocean1]

Ok, yes I'm an idiot and was "doing it wrong".

Get a telephone book and a cargo strap. Put the telephone book on the bike seat, wrap the strap over the telephone book, under the seat and through the rear rim.

Tighten the cargo strap until the countershaft sprocket, the swingarm pivot point and the rear axle line up. If the bike's on a kickstand it'll fall over about now. Do something about that.

Pull the middle span of the lower part of the chain up hard, note where it comes to, push it down hard. There should be 30 - 40mm difference between these two points, make it so. Make sure the rear wheel is pointing at the front wheel while your at it, use a straight-edge on both sides, (the rear rim is wider).

Let the cargo strap go. Move the back suspension up and down a bit and then let it rest naturally. Measure the chain slack again. Get a vivid marker and write that measurement on the swingarm.

From now on you check the chain slack as the bike sit's on it's kickstand, using the measurement on the swingarm.

End of.

[tigertim20]

I'm gonna put my money on a tooth on 5th gear having sheared off... sorry

beat me to it.

[ducatilover]

Get a telephone book and a cargo strap. Put the telephone book on the bike seat, wrap the strap over the telephone book, under the seat and through the rear rim.

Tighten the cargo strap until the countershaft sprocket, the swingarm pivot point and the rear axle line up. If the bike's on a kickstand it'll fall over about now. Do something about that.

Pull the middle span of the lower part of the chain up hard, note where it comes to, push it down hard. There should be 30 - 40mm difference between these two points, make it so. Make sure the rear wheel is pointing at the front wheel while your at it, use a straight-edge on both sides, (the rear rim is wider).

Let the cargo strap go. Move the back suspension up and down a bit and then let it rest naturally. Measure the chain slack again. Get a vivid marker and write that measurement on the swingarm.

From now on you check the chain slack as the bike sit's on it's kickstand, using the measurement on the swingarm.

End of.

:2thumbsup Now that's well said

[Akzle]

Actually verniers refers to the older style, which use the vernier scale, us engineers like to use digital calipers to save time. But I guess saving time is higher priority to those of us in more useful professions?

still yet to meet a digital i'd trust with anything that mattered. i'd trust my verniers almost as much as my mics. digitals... as much as a steel rule :bleh:

and don't pretend you're that important or busy that the four seconds it takes you to read a vernier scale has an affect on your day.

[Maha]

Well regardless of how you measure it, there's definitely more then the necessary amount of slack in the chain. Twice as much as the 250 kwacka I'm trying to sell. You can push it right up against the bottom of the swingarm.

Hopefully it sorts the issue out :woohoo: It's such a fabulous bike don't want to fuss with it, just ride :ride:

Cheers for the help gents. Always great advice from the technical crowd.

That chain thing has not ''just happened''...When they are loose like that, they can be adjusted (tightened) but it's temporary fix.
You are up for new chain/sprockets.
I remember arriving home after a day out riding, and the chain on my then Triumph, was resting on the center stand....$346 later!

[bogan]

still yet to meet a digital i'd trust with anything that mattered. i'd trust my verniers almost as much as my mics. digitals... as much as a steel rule :bleh:

and don't pretend you're that important or busy that the four seconds it takes you to read a vernier scale has an affect on your day.

Try Mitutoyo gear, that shit you can depend on. Thats four seconds, many, many times a day. Also most of the verniers only go to 0.1mm; so in many cases I'd need micrometers of many different sizes as well.... Think I'll just stick with the 300mm Mitutoyo Caliper; it probably cost em more than I earn in a week, so it should be used.

[Katman]

:scratch: ...nothing to do with pulling it off teh sproket

Chain adjustment is checked by measuring the slack between the sprockets.

Pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket is a good way of confirming the degree of chain and sprocket wear though.

My money's on a fucked chain.

[Drew]

Chain adjustment is checked by measuring the slack between the sprockets.

Pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket is a good way of confirming the degree of chain and sprocket wear though.

My money's on a fucked chain.
I wanted to bet on the chain. But it's very difficult to know what is actually happening from a written explanation. So didn't wanna get the guys hopes up.

I don't think he is listening to anybody anyway. Even if it had only done a couple hundred kilometers since last oil change, if a cog had pieces missing, the oil would have loads of swarf in it. But he wants to take the sellers word for it.

[Glowerss]

I wanted to bet on the chain. But it's very difficult to know what is actually happening from a written explanation. So didn't wanna get the guys hopes up.

I don't think he is listening to anybody anyway. Even if it had only done a couple hundred kilometers since last oil change, if a cog had pieces missing, the oil would have loads of swarf in it. But he wants to take the sellers word for it.

Nah mate. Will be doing an oil change shortly as well just for my own piece of mind. I know next to nothing mechanically speaking, and so I take everything on board. Was simply saying (in regards to the seller) that I'm fairly sure its a recent development rather then a standing issue. (For the record, I dont trust the seller, but a mate of mine who also happens to know the seller)

I'm just sick as fucking shit at the moment, and as I have (for now) a second bike to get around on, waiting to check the oil till the weekend.

One of the moto doctor guys was around for a different reason but took a quick glance at the chain, reckoned it was loose as hell and probably quite shagged as well. Bike came with a spare set of front and back sprockets, so the chain will definitely be swapped out.

For somebody who knows next to nothing about chains, is there a certain type of chain brand/type/(sizing?) I should be looking for? recommendations? Going to have the bike awhile so not looking for "super cheap" but not "super expensive" either.

[bogan]

Nah mate. Will be doing an oil change shortly as well just for my own piece of mind. I know next to nothing mechanically speaking, and so I take everything on board. Was simply saying (in regards to the seller) that I'm fairly sure its a recent development rather then a standing issue. (For the record, I dont trust the seller, but a mate of mine who also happens to know the seller)

I'm just sick as fucking shit at the moment, and as I have (for now) a second bike to get around on, waiting to check the oil till the weekend.

One of the moto doctor guys was around for a different reason but took a quick glance at the chain, reckoned it was loose as hell and probably quite shagged as well. Bike came with a spare set of front and back sprockets, so the chain will definitely be swapped out.

For somebody who knows next to nothing about chains, is there a certain type of chain brand/type/(sizing?) I should be looking for? recommendations? Going to have the bike awhile so not looking for "super cheap" but not "super expensive" either.

Are the spares new or worn? Some good cunts manage to con the buyer into taking away a bunch of trash by calling it spare parts :bleh:

Also, haven't seen mention of you checking out the cush drive? I've found em to be closely related to chain wear and jerky acceleration.

[Glowerss]

Are the spares new or worn? Some good cunts manage to con the buyer into taking away a bunch of trash by calling it spare parts :bleh:

Also, haven't seen mention of you checking out the cush drive? I've found em to be closely related to chain wear and jerky acceleration.

You'll have to explain a bit more on the cush drive bit. Not heard that expression before. I can google what one is, but more sort of what am I to be looking for? What would be worn/causing the issue?

Anyway, I'd have to double check, but from what I remember the sprockets were in sealed unopened containers. Seller had em because it was cheaper to buy them all as a set, but the sprockets on the bike were still OK at the time.

[nzspokes]

Even if it had only done a couple hundred kilometers since last oil change, if a cog had pieces missing, the oil would have loads of swarf in it. But he wants to take the sellers word for it.

Well you can take mine, I was there when the oil change was done and there was no crap in it. Ive owned a bike with broken teeth on a gear so know what its like. This bike does not have damaged gears. If theres a fault it will be the chain, yes the sprockets given to the new owner are new.

[bogan]

You'll have to explain a bit more on the cush drive bit. Not heard that expression before. I can google what one is, but more sort of what am I to be looking for? What would be worn/causing the issue?

Anyway, I'd have to double check, but from what I remember the sprockets were in sealed unopened containers. Seller had em because it was cheaper to buy them all as a set, but the sprockets on the bike were still OK at the time.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Pqp8GPs40Lk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The cush drive is a rubber buffer between the sprocket and the rim, the two should move as one unless the rubber is badly worn like the bike in the vid; iirc the rubbers might have turned to a thin green smear on that particular bike.

Ah yup, should still be all good then.

[Glowerss]

The cush drive is a rubber buffer between the sprocket and the rim, the two should move as one unless the rubber is badly worn like the bike in the vid; iirc the rubbers might have turned to a thin green smear on that particular bike.

Ah yup, should still be all good then.

Well, from what I can tell, the cush drive is OK. At the very least, nothing is spinning independant of each other. (In fact nothing is turning on the nuts that I can see full stop). Certainly nothing like what the video shows is happening on the bike.

[bogan]

Well, from what I can tell, the cush drive is OK. At the very least, nothing is spinning independant of each other. (In fact nothing is turning on the nuts that I can see full stop). Certainly nothing like what the video shows is happening on the bike.

That example is pretty extreme, if you grab the sprocket in one hand, and the tyre in the other, there should be no movement between them. In the case of two sided swingarms it won't turn on the nut and be as easy to spot as that one.

[ducatilover]

:niceone: My cush drive is mint, I used leather to re-pack it. Seemed to work...
Just buy a mid-range chain, should last long enough with new sprockets and a happy cush drive

[Glowerss]

:niceone: My cush drive is mint, I used leather to re-pack it. Seemed to work...
Just buy a mid-range chain, should last long enough with new sprockets and a happy cush drive

Any idea of what some mid range chains are? What sort of thing should I be looking at? Any idea what size hornets use, or is there a standard sort of size?

[Katman]

Your bike takes a 520 chain - 110 links if using the standard gearing.

Expect to pay around $100 for a decent quality O ring chain or about $150 for an X ring chain.

[Glowerss]

Your bike takes a 520 chain - 110 links if using the standard gearing.

Expect to pay around $100 for a decent quality O ring chain or about $150 for an X ring chain.

You're a legend sir. Thank you very much.

Now just need to find someplace to fit it all without charging an arm and a leg.

[ducatilover]

If it has one with a joining link/clip, I may be able to change it for you when I'm in Auckland this coming week.
Not sure of my schedule though (Rally can be busy)

[nzspokes]

If it has one with a joining link/clip, I may be able to change it for you when I'm in Auckland this coming week.
Not sure of my schedule though (Rally can be busy)

Do o/ring chains come with that?

Mine had a rivet one and it came with the tool.

[ducatilover]

Do o/ring chains come with that?

Mine had a rivet one and it came with the tool.

I've never thought about that actually.
If it comes with a rivet tool, that'll make life nice and easy

[MikeD400]

This thread is quiet funny to read being the seller of the bike :P

I told you when you came to pick it up "shit sorry mate was going to tighten the chain for you been busy and forgot, make sure u do it when you get home" also explained the chain was a cheapy. I didnt want to have to buy a tool too fit it instead rather to buy a new chain at less cost more often and 2 minute job installation and i gave you brand new in packet front and rear sprocket and suggested u fit them when the chain expired.

Also the bike has just had an oil and filter change $65 bottle of oil btw lease dont drain it lol, sump plug does have a magnetic stick on it and had probably 3 pieces of small metal on them bout 1/4mm thick 3-4mm long didnt think anything of it at the time.

Ive never had any gearbox problems with this bike but i also never rode it at 50kph in 5th 6th or even 4th very often so i dunno.

My last ride was with the missus on the back did about 400k so again was riding with revs up to keep the bike happy.

Anyways any questions on the bike mate I'm happy to share my experience with her, I miss her already, i did about 12,000ks on it every minute enjoyable, well thats a lie... ran out of gas on it once lol dont get as many k's out of reserve with a pillion do you? DUR!!! :P

Great bike man, look after her as I did and i hope you get what ever the problem is sorted, she well worth fixing.

Cheers Mike

[Akzle]

Try Mitutoyo gear, that shit you can depend on. Thats four seconds, many, many times a day. Also most of the verniers only go to 0.1mm; so in many cases I'd need micrometers of many different sizes as well.... Think I'll just stick with the 300mm Mitutoyo Caliper; it probably cost em more than I earn in a week, so it should be used.

my verniers and OD mics are mitutoyo. verniers go to .01, mic to .001

[Glowerss]

This thread is quiet funny to read being the seller of the bike :P

I told you when you came to pick it up "shit sorry mate was going to tighten the chain for you been busy and forgot, make sure u do it when you get home" also explained the chain was a cheapy. I didnt want to have to buy a tool too fit it instead rather to buy a new chain at less cost more often and 2 minute job installation and i gave you brand new in packet front and rear sprocket and suggested u fit them when the chain expired.

Also the bike has just had an oil and filter change $65 bottle of oil btw lease dont drain it lol, sump plug does have a magnetic stick on it and had probably 3 pieces of small metal on them bout 1/4mm thick 3-4mm long didnt think anything of it at the time.

Ive never had any gearbox problems with this bike but i also never rode it at 50kph in 5th 6th or even 4th very often so i dunno.

My last ride was with the missus on the back did about 400k so again was riding with revs up to keep the bike happy.

Anyways any questions on the bike mate I'm happy to share my experience with her, I miss her already, i did about 12,000ks on it every minute enjoyable, well thats a lie... ran out of gas on it once lol dont get as many k's out of reserve with a pillion do you? DUR!!! :P

Great bike man, look after her as I did and i hope you get what ever the problem is sorted, she well worth fixing.

Cheers Mike


I fully don't remember mentioning to tigthen the chain, totally my bad if you did :weird: Was a bit too excited to be listening properly apparently :eek:

I do remember you saying it was a cheapy chain, so will just whack a new one on there and be good as gold.

She is a fantastic bike otherwise though. Love it to bits. Had a hard time selling my other 250, as people kept drooling on/being distracted by the Hornet instead of the ZZR :lol: