PDA

View Full Version : 88 VT250F fork seal replacement



328FTW
12th November 2012, 22:11
So I've been riding my bike pretty much everywhere, walked home a couple times but otherwise put about 1200km on it now with my frankenmotor.

So the first WOF is about due, good excuse to get my ass into gear and fix the fork seals which is about the last thing in a big list of items I have been repairing slowly. Am I going to have to pull them out to be sure of the size or were they the same for the most part year to year? Can obviously get the fork diameter etc with it apart but never done a fork seal before, no idea what I'm in for

My basic questions are
Do I need specific seals or will doing it by size at the local seal place with one of the right style be fine? Knowing the size ahead of time would be sweet.
Special tools at all? Because I'll get them before having it halfway apart
What weight of oil do these things like?


Been googling, have some idea but also some conflicting info. Can't be that hard but I need my bike now so want to knock it out in a day rather than pulling to bits then running around after parts.

FJRider
13th November 2012, 05:37
Been googling, have some idea but also some conflicting info. Can't be that hard but I need my bike now so want to knock it out in a day rather than pulling to bits then running around after parts.

Spend some money on a workshop manual.

Or ... Google/download one. It will explain everything you need to know.

KIPS powervalve
16th November 2012, 18:02
If you make any headway in your quest to replace the forkseals, givviz a yell, because my bro picked up a rooted example as a project, and the seals are BAD. I just discovered a place called "Pyramid Parts" http://www.pyramidparts.co.nz/ They sell fork seals for all sorts of models. Maybe give them an email.

puddytat
16th November 2012, 22:00
google Econohonda....Ive lost their email addy, they'll no doubt have the seals & ive found them to be a good outfit.

Its not a biggy, job wise....the allen bolt in the bottom of the forks can be a problem if its stiff, make sure you leave the springs & caps on when you try to undo it. You'll need to, as its how you knock the old seals out by pulling the fork apart. Screw drivers are a no-no :facepalm:
Fork oil is usually 10 wt init? 'cause Asians are light. I'd go to 15wt. Unless your Asian.
A piece of plastic tube that you slip over the fork stanchion to knock the seals home.
Glad wrap over the fork tube top as you slip the seal over so it doesnt get "cut"

These things I have learned.....

328FTW
19th November 2012, 15:15
Yeah I just started on this today, one shock was shagged, I got the good one off first and the leaking one just collapsed and sat the bike on the floor. Don't think it was doing much anymore. Just got to get them apart now.