Strange feeling on left corners, hard to straighten up, bike set-up issue?

[Ragingrob]

Hey guys,

Lately I've been noticing an odd feeling when taking left corners where I feel as though the bike wants to keep turning to the left and it seems difficult to straighten her up... though I don't actually know if it's a physical issue or it's all in my head :facepalm:

It seems more pronounced on slight curve left corners... e.g. on the motorway if there is a slight curve to the left, I lean into it every so slightly and then I feel as though it takes a lot of effort to straighten things back up.

It is also more pronounced when riding with a pillion, at first I thought the pillion was holding their weight to my left, but nope, sitting like a sack of spuds as per usual.

Tighter left corners seem no trouble, I can push down hard into the corner and then flick the bike straight back up.

Right corners are never a problem.

Does anyone have any ideas on things that could be causing an issue like this? Tyres? Suspension? I will check out the rear wheel position tonight just in case it's somehow slightly out of alignment from the last chain tightening. Otherwise I'm thinking it's all in my head :pinch:

Bike is a '99 TRX850 with no mods.

[Paul in NZ]

Camber in the road magnified by the part of your head that wakes you up at 3am wondering if you locked the garage door...

[GrayWolf]

Dont know the age of bike or tyres... but here's a checklist to have a squizz

Tyres, if severely worn and/or near end of life? Tyre pressures (added to non symmetrical tyre shaping)
Front/rear wheel bearings
steering head bearings.... notchy or worn (sloppy). you may feel a 'click' under hardish braking.
chain adjustment? I shit you not, I have seen bikes with sidestands only, where they have been adjusted on the stand wheels on the floor. One side will adjust differently to the other, and you end up with tightness and the rear wheel pulled to one side.
Fork alignment, are they straight?..... do the handlebars and wheel point correctly straight when set up in the neutral position?
fork legs bent slightly (accident, or a hard drop)
Swing arm bushes, rear suspension linkages not sloppy.

I am assuming the bike has nevver displayed this type of handling before?

[skippa1]

Best course of action is to only turn right from now on. It is due in main to the Coriolis effect which will give those in the southern hemisphere a propensity to the left, further noticed when you try to straighten as you are fighting the effect as well as the bikes natural weight. To counteract the effect, you can ride closer to the equator where the effect is diminished.

[carburator]

Id check the swingarm pivot distance to the rear axle
on both sides and see if there is any difference.
Yes the ajusters are marked but in my experience with
them they are not accurate

Id check the rear to front wheel alignment second, TRX frames
are pretty good however they don't like pillions and given that
the engine is a stressed member check none of the bolts are broken.

they do commonly crack the frame around the exhaust mount / pillon
foot rest

TRX's generally are a very neutral bike that you can
ride with no hands and steer by knee's on the tank

ive got a service / tech mannual somewhere

[Banditbandit]

Dont know the age of bike or tyres... but here's a checklist to have a squizz

Tyres, if severely worn and/or near end of life? Tyre pressures (added to non symmetrical tyre shaping)
Front/rear wheel bearings
steering head bearings.... notchy or worn (sloppy). you may feel a 'click' under hardish braking.
chain adjustment? I shit you not, I have seen bikes with sidestands only, where they have been adjusted on the stand wheels on the floor. One side will adjust differently to the other, and you end up with tightness and the rear wheel pulled to one side.
Fork alignment, are they straight?..... do the handlebars and wheel point correctly straight when set up in the neutral position?
fork legs bent slightly (accident, or a hard drop)
Swing arm bushes, rear suspension linkages not sloppy.

I am assuming the bike has never displayed this type of handling before?


Id check the swingarm pivot distance to the rear axle
on both sides and see if there is any difference.
Yes the ajusters are marked but in my experience with
them they are not accurate

Id check the rear to front wheel alignment second, TRX frames
are pretty good however they don't like pillions and given that
the engine is a stressed member check none of the bolts are broken.

they do commonly crack the frame around the exhaust mount / pillon
foot rest

TRX's generally are a very neutral bike that you can
ride with no hands and steer by knee's on the tank

ive got a service / tech mannual somewhere

Wot they all said - I'd check the tyres first - I'm not sure how the tyre pressure might affect keft corners but not right corners .. but the wear pattern on the tyre might ..

[Ragingrob]

Dont know the age of bike or tyres... but here's a checklist to have a squizz

Tyres, if severely worn and/or near end of life? Tyre pressures (added to non symmetrical tyre shaping)
Front/rear wheel bearings
steering head bearings.... notchy or worn (sloppy). you may feel a 'click' under hardish braking.
chain adjustment? I shit you not, I have seen bikes with sidestands only, where they have been adjusted on the stand wheels on the floor. One side will adjust differently to the other, and you end up with tightness and the rear wheel pulled to one side.
Fork alignment, are they straight?..... do the handlebars and wheel point correctly straight when set up in the neutral position?
fork legs bent slightly (accident, or a hard drop)
Swing arm bushes, rear suspension linkages not sloppy.

I am assuming the bike has nevver displayed this type of handling before?

Your steering head bearings point made me think...

Every now and then under (usually softish though) braking I hear a kinda of clicking/gravelly noise from the front wheel. It's only once every 100km or so, so I've never thought twice about it and usually attribute it to some stones getting flicked up under the mudguard. Does this sound like the bearings have gone?

Bike is a 1999. Tyres have plenty of tread and have worn evenly under correct pressures. Fork alignment is all good as far as I can see.

Will double-check the rear wheel alignment tomorrow morning... Is there a DIY way to check the front wheel / steering head bearings?

Cheers for all the input guys.

[GrayWolf]

Your steering head bearings point made me think...

Every now and then under (usually softish though) braking I hear a kinda of clicking/gravelly noise from the front wheel. It's only once every 100km or so, so I've never thought twice about it and usually attribute it to some stones getting flicked up under the mudguard. Does this sound like the bearings have gone?

Bike is a 1999. Tyres have plenty of tread and have worn evenly under correct pressures. Fork alignment is all good as far as I can see.

Will double-check the rear wheel alignment tomorrow morning... Is there a DIY way to check the front wheel / steering head bearings?

Cheers for all the input guys.

From memory, the TRX doesnt have a centre stand? You'll need to lift it onto a strong crate/box, bike lifter that fits under the motor, get it so the front wheel lifts off the ground, achieved easier if you can arrange the lifter so the weight has a 'rear bias' as much as possible. Once the front is clear of the ground, grip both fork legs just above the axle (kneeling in front) push and pull the stanchions back and forwards.. there should be ZERO movement of any description... then swing the handlebars gently from side to side, 'feel' if they are notchy or 'rough' in how they operate.. fail for either/both is, a new set of bearings required!

[nzspokes]

I think I would do the head bearings anyway if they are showing any noise. Thats not an area you want to muck about with.

[sinfull]

Id check the swingarm pivot distance to the rear axle
on both sides and see if there is any difference.
Yes the ajusters are marked but in my experience with
them they are not accurate

Yeah agree here and once ya know these are accurate do a string line or straight edge wheel alignment !

I recon seeing tyres are good, the alignment would be the biggest probability !


Your steering head bearings point made me think...

Every now and then under (usually softish though) braking I hear a kinda of clicking/gravelly noise from the front wheel. It's only once every 100km or so, so I've never thought twice about it and usually attribute it to some stones getting flicked up under the mudguard. Does this sound like the bearings have gone?

. This will more than likely just be pad noise


From memory, the TRX doesnt have a centre stand? You'll need to lift it onto a strong crate/box, bike lifter that fits under the motor, get it so the front wheel lifts off the ground, achieved easier if you can arrange the lifter so the weight has a 'rear bias' as much as possible. Once the front is clear of the ground, grip both fork legs just above the axle (kneeling in front) push and pull the stanchions back and forwards.. there should be ZERO movement of any description... then swing the handlebars gently from side to side, 'feel' if they are notchy or 'rough' in how they operate.. fail for either/both is, a new set of bearings required!

Wot he said, but just to try and simplify the lifting bit if ya dont have a bike lift !

I use a couple of axle stands which just happen to fit nice ! One under the left pillion peg mount (not the peg itself lol) and the other slips under the 2into1,

You may not find quite the same fit so blocks of wood to pack it might do (ensuring you can run a string line past them for an alignment while you're at it) Then slip a scissor jack under the front somewhere and wind it up till the front wheel is off the ground !

Jacking the front up will change the geometry of the packing you just did, so check it's still solid as you're jacking (or shit could happen)

[Ragingrob]

Dont know the age of bike or tyres... but here's a checklist to have a squizz

Tyres, if severely worn and/or near end of life? Tyre pressures (added to non symmetrical tyre shaping)
Front/rear wheel bearings
steering head bearings.... notchy or worn (sloppy). you may feel a 'click' under hardish braking.
chain adjustment? I shit you not, I have seen bikes with sidestands only, where they have been adjusted on the stand wheels on the floor. One side will adjust differently to the other, and you end up with tightness and the rear wheel pulled to one side.
Fork alignment, are they straight?..... do the handlebars and wheel point correctly straight when set up in the neutral position?
fork legs bent slightly (accident, or a hard drop)
Swing arm bushes, rear suspension linkages not sloppy.

I am assuming the bike has nevver displayed this type of handling before?


Id check the swingarm pivot distance to the rear axle
on both sides and see if there is any difference.
Yes the ajusters are marked but in my experience with
them they are not accurate

Id check the rear to front wheel alignment second, TRX frames
are pretty good however they don't like pillions and given that
the engine is a stressed member check none of the bolts are broken.

they do commonly crack the frame around the exhaust mount / pillon
foot rest

TRX's generally are a very neutral bike that you can
ride with no hands and steer by knee's on the tank

ive got a service / tech mannual somewhere


Wot they all said - I'd check the tyres first - I'm not sure how the tyre pressure might affect keft corners but not right corners .. but the wear pattern on the tyre might ..


I think I would do the head bearings anyway if they are showing any noise. Thats not an area you want to muck about with.


Yeah agree here and once ya know these are accurate do a string line or straight edge wheel alignment !

I recon seeing tyres are good, the alignment would be the biggest probability !

This will more than likely just be pad noise



Wot he said, but just to try and simplify the lifting bit if ya dont have a bike lift !

I use a couple of axle stands which just happen to fit nice ! One under the left pillion peg mount (not the peg itself lol) and the other slips under the 2into1,

You may not find quite the same fit so blocks of wood to pack it might do (ensuring you can run a string line past them for an alignment while you're at it) Then slip a scissor jack under the front somewhere and wind it up till the front wheel is off the ground !

Jacking the front up will change the geometry of the packing you just did, so check it's still solid as you're jacking (or shit could happen)

Okay I managed to check for any play in the forks/steering... there seems to be none whatsoever. Heard the gravelly sound again yesterday we coming to a stop and definitely sounded like it was coming from the brake calipers -- is pad noise a common thing? What is it actually caused by?

After doing a bit of online reading it does really sound as though my rear wheel may be every so slightly out of alignment. Figured I need to tighten my chain slightly anyway so may as well tighten it and then stringline the wheels for alignment, but guess what, the bloody axle nut is stuck on like Hercules tightened it... AND the nut has a few edges that have started rounding off!

So I think I'm gonna have to get down to a bike mechanic sometime, where I can get them to get the nut off (maybe replace it with another non-rounded one), tighten the chain and then check the wheel alignment. Anybody know a good place to just ride in to get a simple job like this done? I'd usually head to see Mike at Drury Tyres but don't live out that way anymore...

[F5 Dave]

you need to buy a breaker bar (600 odd mm non racheting socket lever) & the correct size socket.

And a length of 25mm ally square tube from M10 as a straight edge.



Also you say - no play in head bearings.

But what about ridges when turning side to side? wheel off ground & you should have smooooth turning while holding the forks at the bottom (with someone holding the bike up). Any bumps in them will murder the handling & it is quite common.

Pads do get movement, my old GS used to make a noise. BUT I'd check it out rather than dismiss it. Should be easy to take them off, clean them up (sensibly) and assess the fit, condition, pad retention pin etc.

[sinfull]

Okay I managed to check for any play in the forks/steering... there seems to be none whatsoever. Heard the gravelly sound again yesterday we coming to a stop and definitely sounded like it was coming from the brake calipers -- is pad noise a common thing? What is it actually caused by?

After doing a bit of online reading it does really sound as though my rear wheel may be every so slightly out of alignment. Figured I need to tighten my chain slightly anyway so may as well tighten it and then stringline the wheels for alignment, but guess what, the bloody axle nut is stuck on like Hercules tightened it... AND the nut has a few edges that have started rounding off!

So I think I'm gonna have to get down to a bike mechanic sometime, where I can get them to get the nut off (maybe replace it with another non-rounded one), tighten the chain and then check the wheel alignment. Anybody know a good place to just ride in to get a simple job like this done? I'd usually head to see Mike at Drury Tyres but don't live out that way anymore...
alot of ppl make the mistake of tightening the chain on the chain side every time ! Guess what's going to happen ? But because your finding it hard to pick up in left handers it sounds like the opposite ! Unless there is some Physics thing like with counter steering going on there

Simple alignment check is to prop the bike up on both sides with axle stands (if they'll work) or blocks so it WONT fall, (or get someone to sit on it and move the bars a fraction each time you want them too) then drop to ya belly just in front of your front wheel ! (works better at a few metres away so someone helping be better)
Use your eye-o-meter and line the two edges of the front wheel so ya can just see both edges ! Do this on both sides, slightly moving the front wheel each time to get it as close to center of the rear tyre as possible ! If it's out enough to cause a problem, you'll see it !

[carburator]

somewhere in the workshop is the backend of a trx, the nut should be tight
nugde me later to look up the torque value..

if the bloody thing has frozen on, ( its a captive nut with metal locks )
break out the heat gun and give it a workout and then try undoing it..

you don't want to shag your axle as they are $$$$ to replace..

[Brett]

if it's a rounded bolt, you can file it square again, or you can use a hacksaw blade to cut a bog grove and use a large screw driver to undo it. Or...if it is accessibly, use a vice grip. Does the bike tip in faster, or is it just feeling like it wants to lean over on left handers?

[Ragingrob]

if it's a rounded bolt, you can file it square again, or you can use a hacksaw blade to cut a bog grove and use a large screw driver to undo it. Or...if it is accessibly, use a vice grip. Does the bike tip in faster, or is it just feeling like it wants to lean over on left handers?

It's not completely rounded, I just have an adjustable spanner large enough to fit it but obviously that's not as good a fit as a crescent the right size would be... Struggling to find time to get to a mechanic/borrow a crescent at the moment with all the Xmas insanity going on.

I'm also wondering if it is actually all in my head haha... haven't noticed it so much the past week, but then I haven't been riding on the open road. From memory it tips in the same both directions, just on gradual left handers it seems more work to straighten up... though on sharp corners it's absolutely fine :wacko:

Will probably have to wait til the new year to test things out again! Though I should get onto just doing an eye-level check of the wheel alignment, just need somebody to sit on the bike while I check.

[F5 Dave]

an eyeball will be, well I've always found it impossible to gauge.

a 6ft length of square ally tube from M10 will cost you about $25 & held against the rear wheel will answer your question.

File the nut? Hack saw it? :shutup:

[carburator]

I pretty much have a complete ( sans fairings ) TRX850 in parts stashed away, the rear axle nut is a metal yamaha lock tab one.
its not a bolt that you want to take a hacksaw to as the axle tube is $$$$

[wickle]

if you think it is in your head,get some-else to ride it, if they come back with a suggestion of handling,its not in your head!:niceone:

[Ragingrob]

Since my lovely TRX is for sale, and this thread is public, I'd better leave the final results!

So I'm lazy and never got around to officially testing the wheel alignment other than the string method (where everything looked fine to me).

I've done a few rides so far in 2013 and haven't felt the same sensation again yet - so maybe I am going crazy. I remember that I used to feel it mainly when pillioning, it could be that my girl leans to one side while looking over my shoulder and that'd be enough for me to think something didn't feel right!

Have had a mate ride her around the block a few times as well and they didn't notice anything out of ordinary. So yeah, can't seem to reproduce the 'problem' at all these days...

:weird:

[Banditbandit]

an eyeball will be, well I've always found it impossible to gauge.

a 6ft length of square ally tube from M10 will cost you about $25 & held against the rear wheel will answer your question.

File the nut? Hack saw it? :shutup:

I've always done it by eye ... and never had an issue ...