Paint pros, Harley fags, kids bike

[Akzle]

so i pulled a bike out the shed for the kids, doing it up as a holiday project. at this stage taking to it with 100grit to get the rust off.

paint pros: 1- how bare does bare metal need to be to not bubble up again? i'm going to throw galmet or something at it, then topcoat, we've got all the orange off but there's still dark pitting and patches, mainly near the feather edge of the existing paint. but also the bottom of some dings... do i need to acid it?
2- best way to get rust out of the corners? anything better than wire brush in die grinder?
3- how much prep should i be doing for an acceptable rattle can finish? my inclination is to buff it to 4000 grit then rub it with steel wool, but that's more than this bike needs... where is the line for rattle can paint? 400? 800?
4- should i give a shit about the inside of the pipework?

neauh, harley fags: there's crome type shit that's rusted and pitted, also some stainless type stuff. what's the best way to restore this on the cheap? is there chrome-in-a-can? or is it a matter of prep and paint as with everything else....

[Drew]

Re-chroming is harder than chroming from scratch. Just paint that shit.

Rattle can painting, I've never gone past 400 grit paper other than once. The one time though, others will attest, looked like a bake oven job!

Pitting, will very quickly turn to bubbles in the paint if you don't treat it.

Bare metal painting is very tricky I was told. Never tried it myself so I dunno what to do.

[jellywrestler]

Re-chroming is harder than chroming from scratch.

Still spouting more bullshit eh Drew! How much Chroming you had done? was it using 4.1 or is that only a brake fluid?

[Drew]

Still spouting more bullshit eh Drew! How much Chroming you had done? was it using 4.1 or is that only a brake fluid?Was you that told me it was harder to prep for re-chroming ya fuckin cock gobbler. Figured it was safe to assume you weren't talking shit, since you have heaps of that shit done.

Guess I shouldn't make that mistake again.

As you were.

[AllanB]

If it is just a crash and burn runabout rub back with not finer than 400 - 320 will be OK if you use a good etching primer. You can buy rattle cans designed to paint over previously rusted surfaces to arrest further rust.

A good etching primer will be the key to adhesion. A number of fine coats is better than one heavy one.

Also a good tip with rattle cans if it is a bit cool is to sit them in a bucket of warm water for 10 mins or so to warm up the paint.

Have fun. Post pictures.

[unstuck]

Sandblast the sucker, get rid of all that pit shadowing, etch primer if bare steel. Keep your fingertip away from the spray pattern when using a spraycan, otherwise you are going to get blobs thrown at it.:Punk:

[scumdog]

Chrome type shit will always be pitted if that's what it's like right now.

Sure, rubbing it down with real fine steel wool and rust-kill will help - but only for so long.

Maybe of painted with Wattyl kill-rust rust eater it will last but remember if that Wattyl wears/scrapes off you'll be back to square-one.

And the chrome will be a different colour as the above is not 100% clear, it's slightly opaque.

[FJRider]

There are a few rust killers/sealers that require little or no prep. Paint the stuff on and let it dry. Then paint over.

[Brian d marge]

Wot allan said

BUT

for the bits that show , I go 300 , 600, Paint , 800 paint ( in a different color IF you want a reasonable finish ) , then top coat 1000 # never bothered with a laquer

the other bits 300 , maybe 600 depends if can be seen

sorry but those edges will show up until they are filled , either sand it down and then fill using spray putty or bog and only the holes !!! then paint in a color ( read cheap ) then put a base coat down

sand back using 300 , warm water with detergent in it , wet and dry

the different color paint underneath will show up the high spots and low spot , your call on how good u want it to look

see the above to finish

Silicon ,,,IF the frame has oil or silicon on it , it will take u on big style and mess with ur head , paint wont stick to either and u think its clean , but as soon as u spray ,,,fk .....wait to it dries and sand it off ......

As allan said , warm the paint and the surface , clean and dry , then the finish can be quite good depends on the prep


Stephen
need more wine so must get of couch , so a hurried reply

[unstuck]

This shit here is really good, at least I have had some good results with it. http://www.tergo.co.nz/Tech%20Data/HTML/blackguard.htm

[Akzle]

:scratch:
i dont get it.

I post a thread. and get serious answers. y'all still in holiday mode eh...

anyhow. thanks all.
i was thinking whatever galv spray they sell now (i know it as galmet) - will look for etch primer but last time i looked at PA10 in a can it was about 60$ which is about 40$ more than i expect to pay for paint for this. which makes me think.. i probably have a 4lt can i can run through the compressor... hum)
, i know how to paint (thin coats) it was more the metal prep i was curious about.

frame is steel, various fittings are this high-chromium/stainless (chinese probably) shit metal.

i'm not going to be filling shit, so i think the etch primer /killrust is the way to go. it doesn't need to be a real purty finish. it's a kids thrash bike.

so far prep has been 150 grit (regular sandpaper) with water and it's got rid of the worst of the rust, bits that are clean get CRC66'd awaiting the heat gun before painting. (although with the fucking temperatures we've been having i could just leave it outside for two minutes)

[The Lone Rider]

Textured powdercoat


It will look cool, and you will have no prep to do.

And depending on the texture you pick, scratches and nicks will be filled in and wont show.

[onearmedbandit]

:scratch:
i dont get it.

I post a thread. and get serious answers. y'all still in holiday mode eh...



I was thinking the exact same thing.

[Brian d marge]

nothing wrong with brush painting and a tin of paint , a good brush ...away u go ,

have done a few tanks this way , no not t34 ,

Stephen

[Akzle]

Textured powdercoat


It will look cool, and you will have no prep to do.

And depending on the texture you pick, scratches and nicks will be filled in and wont show.

okay. who does tex powder coat for 20$?

[unstuck]

okay. who does tex powder coat for 20$?

How many dude ya know flow like that, not many, if any.:Punk:

[jellywrestler]

Was you that told me it was harder to prep for re-chroming ya fuckin cock gobbler. Figured it was safe to assume you weren't talking shit, since you have heaps of that shit done.

if you'd listened to the full story i was talking about alloy parts with underlying corrosion, most chrome is easier the second time around than the first.....

[hayd3n]

buy a can of crc rust kill black and just paint it

[The Lone Rider]

okay. who does tex powder coat for 20$?

Minimum is usually $40-50 from places I've seen.

And any place can do textured powdercoat. It comes down to what variety they stock as application is all the same.

[Zedder]

:scratch:
i dont get it.

I post a thread. and get serious answers. y'all still in holiday mode eh...

anyhow. thanks all.
i was thinking whatever galv spray they sell now (i know it as galmet) - will look for etch primer but last time i looked at PA10 in a can it was about 60$ which is about 40$ more than i expect to pay for paint for this. which makes me think.. i probably have a 4lt can i can run through the compressor... hum)
, i know how to paint (thin coats) it was more the metal prep i was curious about.

frame is steel, various fittings are this high-chromium/stainless (chinese probably) shit metal.

i'm not going to be filling shit, so i think the etch primer /killrust is the way to go. it doesn't need to be a real purty finish. it's a kids thrash bike.

so far prep has been 150 grit (regular sandpaper) with water and it's got rid of the worst of the rust, bits that are clean get CRC66'd awaiting the heat gun before painting. (although with the fucking temperatures we've been having i could just leave it outside for two minutes)

I'm not in holiday mode so get stuffed!

Good luck with the project though. Can't believe I wrote that, must be getting soft in me old age, bloody KB...

[Akzle]

buy a can of crc rust kill black and just paint it
you win, sir!

(actually got a can of some white "uber primer" shit, recomended to me by the paint-guru at bunnings. (sorry wynnF, i wasn't going that far.) a massive 3$ saving over the wattyl rustkill stuff. it's a basecoat, going blue and gold over the top of it (at kid's recomendation))


Good luck with the project though. Can't believe I wrote that, must be getting soft in me old age, bloody KB...

you're probably just still drunk. it's okay.

i think we're all feeling it. HAPPY POST-APOCALYPSE-YEAR!
(i'm feeling old too, my last NY resolution was to drink and smoke more, drive faster and take more drugs. i thought i was a no-brainer winning idea.
it seems i can't keep any resolution...)

[Drew]

if you'd listened to the full story i was talking about alloy parts with underlying corrosion, most chrome is easier the second time around than the first.....I remember two conversations about chrome, (vaguely), perhaps the second was in regards to fork tubes.

Does that ring a bell?

I never retain the full story though. It's why I'm so good at making a cunt of myself.

[jellywrestler]

I remember two conversations about chrome, (vaguely), perhaps the second was in regards to fork tubes.

Does that ring a bell?

fork tubes are seldom economic to re chrome if you can get new ones, and a lot from the nineties on are just muck to even try.
Dont think the poster was talking about fork tubes though...
should'nt you be on the turps now it's New Years eve, or are you Mayan?

[Drew]

fork tubes are seldom economic to re chrome if you can get new ones, and a lot from the nineties on are just muck to even try.
Dont think the poster was talking about fork tubes though...
should'nt you be on the turps now it's New Years eve, or are you Mayan?
Won't be hitting it hard tonight. Goin up to Max and Tyrone's place soon.

[jellywrestler]

Won't be hitting it hard tonight. Goin up to Max and Tyrone's place soon.

call in for a couple if ya like, i might even be able to be dragged up there too

[Drew]

call in for a couple if ya like, i might even be able to be dragged up there too
Righto. Be there in about twenty minutes.

[imdying]

buy a can of crc rust kill black and just paint it

This. Or for a little more money use Hammerite, sticks real good to rusty crap... I brushed it on te minimoto frame, nice and thick, not as good as powdercoat but done in the garage for not much money so no complaints. Comes in spray cans too.

[BIG DOUG]

Or you can go to your local harley dealer and buy textured black in a can, good stuff to.

[actungbaby]

Still spouting more bullshit eh Drew! How much Chroming you had done? was it using 4.1 or is that only a brake fluid?

Am chrome plater well was in the 80s hehe nah u just have to strip the old stuff with

Current and acid not diffcult take like few minutes , then just getting it polished with

Belt sander The chrome plating biz will have that, as in painting (which trying do know }

Its prepration prepration get all old stuff of and then clean well with solvent (no grease)

I got chrome we did in 1986 on my xl 100 and still good nick rest the bike bit rusty though.

[actungbaby]

fork tubes are seldom economic to re chrome if you can get new ones, and a lot from the nineties on are just muck to even try.
Dont think the poster was talking about fork tubes though...
should'nt you be on the turps now it's New Years eve, or are you Mayan?

Forks are Hard chrome totaly diffrent process from normal chrome plating.

Normal chrome only looks like shit as its the nickel plating first has the shine chrome is just

Used as a coating to protect the nickel finish well chrome plate by itself looks like gavanising

the nickel plating but on for about 20 mins in the bath my job was to do the chrome Plating

Which was rinse in water after nickel plating and then into chrome vat for like 60 seconds

With right amount current

When did the shoping trolley baskets had crank up to 1000 amps boy it used to hum had pour cold water to cool

connections hehe , then in 90s after move from chch to pammy ended up pushing the damm things (trolleys)

At local pak n save for 8 years aghhhh