Suzuki TS 185 mileage?

[Matariki]

Finally after two years of not riding due to a mobility van failing to give way and colliding into me (destroying my last motorcycle and a portion of my left leg), I'm back on the road again. :)

And I've been practising my off road riding (which I'm not very good at - if anyone is around Greytown and is willing to show me the ropes I would be keen) and on road riding, I've noticed a few things with my TS 185. For starters its only capable of doing 48km (30 miles) before it needs a refill, the other thing too is that I've noticed smoke when I start up the bike (not like a dirty smoke or anything, but allot of smoke) and when I change gears. This is the first two stroke I've owned, so I don't know whether this is normal or not. My Suzuki TS has a 7.40 litre tank and a 2.50 litre reserve tank.

[frogfeaturesFZR]

Used to get 180 km's per tank out of mine. ( Commuting ) Is there a leak in the tank, or fuel lines ?

[FJRider]

Finally after two years of not riding due to a mobility van failing to give way and colliding into me (destroying my last motorcycle and a portion of my left leg), I'm back on the road again. :)

And I've been practising my off road riding (which I'm not very good at - if anyone is around Greytown and is willing to show me the ropes I would be keen) and on road riding, I've noticed a few things with my TS 185. For starters its only capable of doing 48km (30 miles) before it needs a refill, the other thing too is that I've noticed smoke when I start up the bike (not like a dirty smoke or anything, but allot of smoke) and when I change gears. This is the first two stroke I've owned, so I don't know whether this is normal or not. My Suzuki TS has a 7.40 litre tank and a 2.50 litre reserve tank.

I'm glad you're still interested in motorcycling then, good on you.

If the 48 km's was done off road ... and in the lower gears. This is sort of expected. (high revs but low speeds chews petrol). I assume you know how to use reserve .. ?? (a few don't)

Smoke from the exhaust on a two-stroke is normal. Smoke is good unless it fouls the plug. You make no mention of rough running of the engine ... so I assume all is good there.

When you change gear ... it will give a burst of smoke as you give it throttle.

[Ocean1]

Yeah, you should be getting far better fuel cosumption figures. Do you turn the fuel off at the tank when you park it? If not can you see if there's damp patch under the bike, or a drip hanging off one of the wee drain tubes under the bike? If so it's not a big deal, just a bit of carb maintenance. If not then it's likely you need to get someone to check the carb out more thoroughly, it's drinking far too much.

Little smoke is normal, especially when just started.

[Matariki]

I'm glad you're still interested in motorcycling then, good on you.

If the 48 km's was done off road ... and in the lower gears. This is sort of expected. (high revs but low speeds chews petrol). I assume you know how to use reserve .. ?? (a few don't)

Smoke from the exhaust on a two-stroke is normal. Smoke is good unless it fouls the plug. You make no mention of rough running of the engine ... so I assume all is good there.

When you change gear ... it will give a burst of smoke as you give it throttle.

Oh ok, that makes sense. Yes, as I confessed, I'm not very good at riding off road yet, so I have the tendency to ride on lower gear settings (first and second gear). I know how to change the TS over to the reserve tank, I'm often relying on it to get me home. At the moment I'm practicing riding off road at the local river. Although I don't think my tyres are cut out for it (I have 80 on road and 20 off road tyres). That's the other thing too, If I want to start riding on sand (soft) but still be able to ride on the road as well, what sort of tyres would I be looking at?

[Matariki]

Yeah, you should be getting far better fuel cosumption figures. Do you turn the fuel off at the tank when you park it? If not can you see if there's damp patch under the bike, or a drip hanging off one of the wee drain tubes under the bike? If so it's not a big deal, just a bit of carb maintenance. If not then it's likely you need to get someone to check the carb out more thoroughly, it's drinking far too much.

Little smoke is normal, especially when just started.

Hmm... I did suspect it was the carb, although I don't have the experience or the confidence (yet alone the money if I screw it up) to look at it (nor does anyone else in the family). I am getting a WOF done on the TS soon, so I plan to take it down to the local mechanics anyway's. I don't know what sort of price range I would be looking at though for a mechanic to check, and clean it.

[FJRider]

If I want to start riding on sand (soft) but still be able to ride on the road as well, what sort of tyres would I be looking at?

Probably the better tyre for you would be a Trials pattern tyre. (Google them) most motorcycle wreckers may have second-hand tyres that would suit your needs. (worth a try to start with)

[ktm84mxc]

I've had my share of TS's over the years, 125-50k's outta a tank is the norm for commuting, highway use will use more fuel as it's up around 6000 rpm. Check there's no fuel over flowing through the carb easy to spot turn the fuel on leave it for 5 min if a puddle under bike there's a prob.
When was the air filter last cleaned? off road will get it dirty very quickly. Drill a 1/2 inch hole up the muffler to let it breath a bit better and perform.
Tires a trails/block pattern will be ok, a farm bike pattern also. Kiwi X are cheap and a suitable combo for the TS, just get rim locks fitted for off road riding so you can lower the tire pressures to 14-16 psi.

[Ocean1]

Hmm... I did suspect it was the carb, although I don't have the experience or the confidence (yet alone the money if I screw it up) to look at it (nor does anyone else in the family). I am getting a WOF done on the TS soon, so I plan to take it down to the local mechanics anyway's. I don't know what sort of price range I would be looking at though for a mechanic to check, and clean it.

It's no more than 1/2 an hour to clean and check the carb, another 1/2 an hour to set it up properly, might need parts but they shouldn't be much. It's always good to ask the mechanic what's likely, and to call you before spending much more than that.

Good point about the air filter too, dirty filter can make a huge difference.

[Matariki]

It's no more than 1/2 an hour to clean and check the carb, another 1/2 an hour to set it up properly, might need parts but they shouldn't be much. It's always good to ask the mechanic what's likely, and to call you before spending much more than that.

Good point about the air filter too, dirty filter can make a huge difference.

I can deal with the air filter. I'll go have a look at it.

[Matariki]

Hmm... the air filter is a bit past its use by date. I had a look at the housing and I noticed that some of the foam looked liked it had been stripped/worn and falling apart.

[Ocean1]

Hmm... the air filter is a bit past its use by date. I had a look at the housing and I noticed that some of the foam looked liked it had been stripped/worn and falling apart.

Can't fix it, need a new one before you ride too far,eh? Have to oil it before you fit it too.

[Matariki]

Can't fix it, need a new one before you ride too far,eh? Have to oil it before you fit it too.

Oil the air filter? Or put new oil in the TS?

[FJRider]

Oil the air filter? Or put new oil in the TS?

Air filter foam requires a thin coating of light oil. (basically pour some on the foam/then wring it out) It helps trap dust/dirt. Most types of paper filters do not require oil on them. Talk with your mechanic what he recommends.

[Ocean1]

Oil the air filter? Or put new oil in the TS?

Oil the filter. Stick it into an old icecream container and pour about 1/2 a cupfull of engine oil over it. Scrunch it up and get it to soak up the oil, then squeze it out as much as you can by hand. Then fit it.

The dust particles get stuck to the oil, see, on the way through the foam. You should clean the filter in a little petrol every half dozen dirt rides, or maybe every six months road work. You can buy special filter oil but if you have any standard engine oil that'll be fine.

Sounds like the tyres on the bike might be the originals, yes? In which case they're not a bad compromise. Anything more agressive for off road use is going to be a bit tricky on the road for a beginer. You're better off learning where the traction limits are off road than on it. What you can do is drop the tyre pressures to about 16 front, 14 rear, and take it a bit easy on the road like that. It'll give you a little more grip in the sandy stuff.

Don't let anyone tell you they didn't fall off heaps when they learned to ride in the dirt. Just take it easy eh? little bit at a time.

[unstuck]

If the filter is to the point where it has dried out that much that bits are falling off it, then I would clean the carby just to be sure there are not wee particles fouling up the carb.:yes:


I must be still learning, cos I fall off on the dirt all the time.:Punk::Punk:

[Matariki]

I have the Hynnes manual for the motorcycle. Should I clean the carb myself, or should I find someone experienced to do it for me?

I would like to clean it myself because it would be cheaper (if I don't screw it up), and I would learn something from it. I don't know though how intricate the carb is on the TS.
My dad said he wouldn't even touch it (that's how nervous he is to look at it - but surely it can't be that bad). I would prefer it of course if someone could show me in person how to do it, but I highly doubt the local mechanic would.

[ktm84mxc]

Cleaning a carb usually just means draining the float bowl and blowing through the jets with compressed air, reconditioning the carb is a whole different job.
Loosen the carb in its mounts rotate it so you can undo the float bowl 4x philips heads , gently remove the bowl chances are there will be crud in bowl , rinse out, turn the fuel on to let any shit under the float to be flushed out only do this for 5 sec. refit carb bowl get it level and tighten the clamps.
Get a new air filter from Suzuki use a air filter oil not engine oil as this just runs to the bottom of the filter over time leaving it dry. A dirty/ripped filter we quickly ruin a engine.

[neels]

I have the Hynnes manual for the motorcycle. Should I clean the carb myself, or should I find someone experienced to do it for me?
TS carbs are pretty basic, if you've got a manual just follow the instructions.

Usually pays to give the float bowl screws a good soaking with CRC for a while before you try and undo them, hopefully someone hasn't been there before you and chewed the heads out of them, while it's in bits I usually replace them with allen head cap screws to make it easier next time.

[Matariki]

Well, I finally got round to seeing the local Suzuki Dealer and asking them about it. The air filter in my opinon is fine (thats not dry or falling apart) but for some reason, the housing that the air filter sits in had a padding of foam around it. I asked them about that, and they said that wasn't a part of the original bike and someone had put it in there. Why someone would do that I'm not sure. But here's a picture to help explain where I found the dry, crusty foam (this isn't from my motorcycle, but its the part that I'm referring to): The foam was located inside the housing.

277811

http://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/suzuki-ts185-1979-ern-air-cleaner_bigsue0218fig-6_1cae.gif

It could be that the previous owner was trying to modify the original air filter to operate similar to this one here (this one here is a modern air filter designed for the Suzuki TS 185)

277813

The Suzuki Dealers recommended to me that I removed the foam that had been installed, but I'm not sure how I should go about doing that. Could I use CRCMarine to help me clean out the housing and the carburetor or would that be a really bad idea?

[Ocean1]

Well, I finally got round to seeing the local Suzuki Dealer and asking them about it. The air filter in my opinon is fine (thats not dry or falling apart) but for some reason, the housing that the air filter sits in had a padding of foam around it. I asked them about that, and they said that wasn't a part of the original bike and someone had put it in there. Why someone would do that I'm not sure. But here's a picture to help explain where I found the dry, crusty foam (this isn't from my motorcycle, but its the part that I'm referring to): The foam was located inside the housing.

It could be that the previous owner was trying to modify the original air filter to operate similar to this one here (this one here is a modern air filter designed for the Suzuki TS 185)

The Suzuki Dealers recommended to me that I removed the foam that had been installed, but I'm not sure how I should go about doing that. Could I use CRCMarine to help me clean out the housing and the carburetor or would that be a really bad idea?

No idea why someone might have stuck some foam in there. If the guys at the shop said to take it out I'd just scrape away with a knife or chisel, a solvent might damage the plastic airbox and any crumbs you miss aren't going to get past the filter anyway.

To clean the carb you can do worse than to use acetone, (nail polish remover) and cotton buds. Just make sure you keep the acetone away from any seals and gaskets. If you've still got some of that engine starter left you can use that to give things a final blast out before reassembling. No smoking, eh?

Luck.

[FJRider]

Well, I finally got round to seeing the local Suzuki Dealer and asking them about it. The air filter in my opinon is fine (thats not dry or falling apart) but for some reason, the housing that the air filter sits in had a padding of foam around it. I asked them about that, and they said that wasn't a part of the original bike and someone had put it in there. Why someone would do that I'm not sure. But here's a picture to help explain where I found the dry, crusty foam (this isn't from my motorcycle, but its the part that I'm referring to): The foam was located inside the housing.


It could be that the previous owner was trying to modify the original air filter to operate similar to this one here (this one here is a modern air filter designed for the Suzuki TS 185)


The Suzuki Dealers recommended to me that I removed the foam that had been installed, but I'm not sure how I should go about doing that. Could I use CRCMarine to help me clean out the housing and the carburetor or would that be a really bad idea?

A filter of ANY kind is better than nothing. The previous owner may just have been cheap. Too cheap to get a new air filter.

To remove it ... a sharp craft knife (in one hand) and a vacuum cleaner (in the other) ... no mess.

[Matariki]

No idea why someone might have stuck some foam in there. If the guys at the shop said to take it out I'd just scrape away with a knife or chisel, a solvent might damage the plastic airbox and any crumbs you miss aren't going to get past the filter anyway.

To clean the carb you can do worse than to use acetone, (nail polish remover) and cotton buds. Just make sure you keep the acetone away from any seals and gaskets. If you've still got some of that engine starter left you can use that to give things a final blast out before reassembling. No smoking, eh?

Luck.

My air filter is made out of plastic, can I use turps to help remove the foam?

[ducatilover]

Yeah turps will work. Or a knife, or a scrubbing brush and petrol

[SMOKEU]

I get well over 100km on a tank from my TS185.

[Matariki]

I get well over 100km on a tank from my TS185.

Hmm... either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the motorcycle. Probably a combination of the two. :scratch:

[FJRider]

Hmm... either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the motorcycle. Probably a combination of the two. :scratch:

A lot will depend on the bikes fitted gearing. If a larger cog has been fitted on the rear wheel ... it will go slower than standard. And use more petrol.

[Ocean1]

A lot will depend on the bikes fitted gearing. If a larger cog has been fitted on the rear wheel ... it will go slower than standard. And use more petrol.

Yeah, but it won't triple the fuel consumption. If that 50 odd litres per tank was from riding off road in 1st-3rd gear then it might be normal. I suspect that's the case as I don't think the bike could use that much fuel in normal road use and still run OK. Really need to fill the bike up, zero the odometer and take it for a ride down to Martinborough and back, and then refill it to see how much it's used.

[FJRider]

Yeah, but it won't triple the fuel consumption. If that 50 odd litres per tank was from riding off road in 1st-3rd gear then it might be normal. I suspect that's the case as I don't think the bike could use that much fuel in normal road use and still run OK. Really need to fill the bike up, zero the odometer and take it for a ride down to Martinborough and back, and then refill it to see how much it's used.

True .... but it certainly wont help the problem.

[SMOKEU]

Hmm... either I'm doing something wrong or there's something wrong with the motorcycle. Probably a combination of the two. :scratch:

I'm guessing there's something wrong with your bike, as even if you're riding hard you'd get more mileage out of a tank.

[Matariki]

A lot will depend on the bikes fitted gearing. If a larger cog has been fitted on the rear wheel ... it will go slower than standard. And use more petrol.

A larger cog? What do you mean by cog?

[unstuck]

A larger cog? What do you mean by cog?

Sprocket.:yes:

[Matariki]

Yeah, but it won't triple the fuel consumption. If that 50 odd litres per tank was from riding off road in 1st-3rd gear then it might be normal. I suspect that's the case as I don't think the bike could use that much fuel in normal road use and still run OK. Really need to fill the bike up, zero the odometer and take it for a ride down to Martinborough and back, and then refill it to see how much it's used.

That makes sense, most of the riding I've been doing has been in 1st - 3rd gear, off road and around town. But I don't understand how going at slower speeds would use up more petrol.

[ducatilover]

Yeah, but it won't triple the fuel consumption. If that 50 odd litres per tank was from riding off road in 1st-3rd gear then it might be normal. I suspect that's the case as I don't think the bike could use that much fuel in normal road use and still run OK. Really need to fill the bike up, zero the odometer and take it for a ride down to Martinborough and back, and then refill it to see how much it's used.
This is a good idea if she's not doing it already


I'm guessing there's something wrong with your bike, as even if you're riding hard you'd get more mileage out of a tank.

This, I really doubt it could manage to eat this much without it pissing out
I'd clean the float needls and seat, my neighbors had one that was un-seating with vibrations while riding, had the perplexed for a long time, was easy enough to fix.
The float needle has a viton tip on it (little black rubbery bit) so I'd suggest you check it's okay and not brittle, if it's brittle, I probably have one floating around here (pun intended)

BTW Quite often you'll find Mikuni and Keihin use the same 8mm needle on smaller bikes without fuel pumps

I would offer to fix it, but my car's in Tauranga and I'm sick of riding my Kawasaki :bleh:

[Matariki]

Sprocket.:yes:

Right, I see... But how does having a bigger sprocket affect fuel consumption?

[FJRider]

A larger cog? What do you mean by cog?

As Unstuck said.

The number of teeth the sprocket has will be stamped on it. Along with the chain type [ ie: 210:48 ... with 48 for example only] being the number of teeth on it.
A bigger rear sprocket only compounds fuel use figures ... and if low speed and your use is most often in the lower gears ... it is often preferred for the extra torque that lower gearing provides.
If you fit a rear sprocket with fewer teeth ... it may feel "lacking" in the lower gears ... but faster (slightly)in top gear.

Such is life with small bikes ... there is no replacement for horsepower.

At the end of the day ... the TS is a good (little) bike. But for a regular commute any distance ... start thinking along the lines of getting a bigger capacity motorcycle. (or not)

[ducatilover]

Right, I see... But how does having a bigger sprocket affect fuel consumption?

it keeps the revs higher, but it won't make that much of a difference
I recently went up a few teeth on my Kawagaysaki and it has seen a drop in fuel consumption, but not huge (and the part where it gets ridden by a complete pillock)

[FJRider]

Right, I see... But how does having a bigger sprocket affect fuel consumption?

A larger rear sprocket has more teeth. This gears the bike down. Same RPM (revs) in each gear but slower speeds. So fuel wont take you as far.

[Matariki]

it keeps the revs higher, but it won't make that much of a difference
I recently went up a few teeth on my Kawagaysaki and it has seen a drop in fuel consumption, but not huge (and the part where it gets ridden by a complete pillock)

With higher revs, does that mean my motorcycle has less chance of flooding (or taking longer to start up)?

[ducatilover]

With higher revs, does that mean my motorcycle has less chance of flooding (or taking longer to start up)?

It only keeps the revs up when you're riding.
So, if it was doing 4000rpm at 80km/h, it would do 5000rpm at 80km/h with a larger sprocket. It won't help it

If it takes long to start when cold, it could be flooding or simply too lean (the plug will tell ya) if it's taking ages to start hot, it's probably flooding

[SMOKEU]

Having the "wrong" sprocket size won't increase your fuel consumption by 2 or 3 times as much unless you're running a ridiculous combination and keeping the engine at the rev limiter the whole time. Realistically it may affect your fuel consumption by 10% or 15% at the most.

[FJRider]

If it takes long to start when cold, it could be flooding or simply too lean (the plug will tell ya) if it's taking ages to start hot, it's probably flooding

If it is flooding after you stop. Turn the fuel tap off until you are ready to start it. It may help.

Two strokes are renown for plug issues. Thus starting issues.

[Matariki]

Hmm... I'm pretty sure that the sprocket on my TS is stock standard. But I would have to check.

[Ocean1]

That makes sense, most of the riding I've been doing has been in 1st - 3rd gear, off road and around town. But I don't understand how going at slower speeds would use up more petrol.

Think of petrol consumption as related to the time you've got the throttle open, and how much. If you're riding on a narrow dirt track for an hour or so you'd probably only travel 10 to 20k, but you've used a fair bit of energy to do so, perhaps as much as 2-3 litres. Couple of hours of that and you'll be all but empty, so 50k from a tank for off-road use isn't unheard of, just perhaps a little high.

If you're traveling on the open road for an hour or so, mostly at 100k, you've had the throttle half way open for most of that time so you've used more petrol, probably about 4-5 litres. But, of course you've traveled 100k, and your tank's good for another 50 or so. Like I said, an hour's trip to Martinborough and back is about 90k, if you fill up when you get back I'd expect it to have used roughly 5L, (an actual 185 owner might refine that guess).