Competely noob towards all things bike

[Cam_NZ]

Hey there, I dont really know where to start! probably a good thing i've made my way onto a bike site.

Anyway I am currently interested in getting myself a bike as I have to travel from Howick(auckland) over to the northshore 4 days a week for uni. Hoping maybe I could dial down on fuel and parking costs by aquiring a bike of my own. Also to incorperate the absolutely nuts traffic between the two places on the motorway!.

As the title says, I am a complete noob! I can ride, and have been riding dirt bikes on farms for years, but i know nothing of bike brands and clothing needed....

So i guess i have a few questions for the knowledgable

1. And most important question. Is it worth having a car aswell as a bike? Have people been able to do everyday stuff just with a bike or has carrying things become quite a nuisance?. Does anyone wish that they had a car aswell or is just having a bike actually not so bad? I will probably have access to a second family car, and selling my car would give me more spending money obviously. I would sell my car in an instant if I knew it was simple to do normal stuff just with a backpack and bike.

2. Are bikes actually cheaper to maintain and run?

3. What kinds of things am I looking for in purchasing riding gear and also a bike. My budget is rather low 3-3.5 for a bike plus a decent amount for some quality riding gear.

4. Do you guys find it a hassle to have to get dressed into riding equipment before you shoot out anywhere, and vice versa do you find it annoying lugging around your gear all day if you cant put it anywhere?

Sorry I bet these questions have been asked before, but I cant really find my way around the forum as of yet.


Looking forward to your feedback

Cheers

[Skiwi]

All answers are IMHO

1- if you have access to the family car, you could sell yours. I went bike only for two years and my only REAL hassle was carting groceries as I lived out of town so tried to carry as many as possible to cut down on the number of trips.

2- yes, but dearer to register and insure.

3- if its your sole form of transport, number one consideration is reliability. You will find plenty of sub 4k bikes, here's one to start you off.. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=560090801
Look for layered and waterproof gear so it can be used in all seasons.

4- yes it is a minor hassle gearing up each time you want to pop down to the dairy, get a Givi box or saddle bags to stash your gear in.

[Grizzo]

What Skiwi said, good advice there chap.

But the best part is how much fun you can have.
Imagine actually being happy after your daily commute.

[unstuck]

Yeah I used to find it a hassle putting my gear on after work, cos that meant my brother had a head start on me in his car. And it was only 13kms home so I would have to get my gear on and then beat him home.:Punk:

[Subike]

I am 55, I sold my car last year and now do everything on my bike. For economy they work out about the same in the long run, maybe a little mores expensive if you go to larger CC's. But the ability to beat the traffic, the freedom of not being asked to take anyone anywhere, the fun of going out on the weekends and just ride for pleasure. Leaves a cage for dead.
I ride in all weathers, just adjust my riding style to the conditions.
Shopping is not a worry, just plan you weekly Pac in Save shopping around your daily routine . I have bought some rather large items home on my 2fiddy, without a hassle.
Get involved in some road craft training, Search in here and read as many thread of riding as you can,. Dont feel afraid to ask dumb questions, ( only dumb from yours and the trolls perspective). And check out the others who commute to uni on bike.
Check out threads by Bosslady, she is a learner thats doing it, and doing it well, some great advice on her threads you could use.

[Cam_NZ]

Cheers for the help guys, just a little nervous about selling my car as I surf a bit and dont know what id do on long road trips.

Anyway, any specific things I should be looking for other than waterproofing and titanium protection in gear? Whats the differences between a $199 helmet and a $599 helmet. How much should I budget for good protective gear?

Was thinking maybe something like this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-558905285.htm

[bosslady]

1. Short answer. Yes. I have a car aswell as my bike and I won't be selling it. I've got kids so never could have anyway but every now and then I take my car if I need to go somewhere but am feeling a little tired. It's not safe to ride a bike when tired. Also, I have my full class 1 so no restrictions but only a 6L so no riding between 10pm and 5am and no, I'm not interested in breaking the law. And yes, it can be a hassle to have to get all your gear on esp when you only wanna pop down the road to get a pie or something! Also my bike was out of action for a few days a few weeks ago so I have a car as back up if something happens to the bike and vice versa.

2. Hells yes. In the weekend I spent no more than $15 for 200km. Bike flew through it's warrant to. I only have a wee 250cc though, simple bike, no fancy smellectronics.

3. I spent $2100 on a tidy bike with very low mileage, just over $1k on very decent riding gear and a few hundy extra for professional instruction. Get quality gear, do your research.

4. oops I answered this in 1.

[unstuck]

Dude, the hyobag looks cool man.:Punk::Punk:278001

[GrayWolf]

Hi
as said all answers are IMO

I've ridden a bike for just on 39yrs. Bike has always been MY transport. I've owned just 5-6 cars in this time. When married, of course we had a car (hers)...
overall my time without access to a car has been over 15 yrs in total. The grocery thing can be a pain, decent panniers (throw over) Top box if you prefer or, as well, can carry most of a single persons shopping. Probably the biggest issue is when purchasing 'big ticket' items like TV, washing machines etc.... either use friends/family cars, or, accept you pay for delivery.

Bike? the new law enables you to purchase GOOD larger capacity bikes. Firstly you need to decide on what type of bike you want? If you are really only going to commute most of the time (I will almost guarantee it wont stay just commute for long) a dual purpose like the XT600/DR650/FG650/KR650 are your best bets. They are torquey, sit up high, so you can see over the tin tops and are manoeuvrable. There are also plenty of people racking up big mileage on them doing distance riding. They are reasonably economical, simple to work on, cheap to service.... As a student all those factors need to be taken to account. Shops have a fixed fee schedule for servicing... a single is usually around $300 upwards, a 4cyl $450-600 depending on whether its a minor (oil change etc) or a full (major) service.
regardless of being told how good they are and reliable... MOST 250's have simply been hammered the fuck out of day in, day out. Most sport 250's are high revving (15000rpm+) and need to have their necks wrung to get real performance out of them. I will add a disclaimer here, high revving easy to flick about bikes can be an absolute thrill to ride, but to me? Not as an everyday ride. Bikes like the XT/DR etc are no faster than the 250's but rev at only 50% of their redlines (around 8000rpm max revs) and are more 'usable' in power delivery. There are other options, and older 5-600cc 4 cyl can be a good buy if well maintained.... Z500/XJ500/GS500 all are good bikes IF well looked after. There are twin cylinder V or Parallel 250's that are quite competent ZZR/ZRX250, VT250, Hyo GT250.. these can be found in low K state, BUT often again have been owned by 1 or more young, enthusiastic (thrashes the fuck out of it) owner with low financial ability or know how to maintain it fully .... ALL high performance 250 can/will become a grenade if NOT well looked after. A 650 single will still probably be more economical than a 250 sprot bike, high performance comes at the expense of economy....

The gear?
there are many online sellers on tardme, My advice here, again personal opinion. DONT SKRIMP on what you pay. Even allowing for low overheads for a seller working from home, when compared to a retail shop... a $200 jacket is still 'budget bin'..... I own jackets ranging from the 250-300 to 600+ price bracket. There is a REASON the $600+ jacket cost that much. if you research the net on Cordura and similar materials the higher thread count (just like bed sheets) the better the material. MOST 'cheap end' jackets are around a 600 count.... for good protection it should be around 900
Again it's marketing... many jackets will have tags saying the armour meets or exceeds DOT/Snell/Euro standard..... read carefully how many actually have information on the abrasion resistance to the actual 'cordura' the jacket/pants are made of.
Leather is STILL the best 'abrasion resistant' material... at the expense of being the hardest one to dry out when wet..... a good compromise and often expensive :( is a cordura jacket with leather on the high abrasion areas... shoulders/elbows etc.
As for carting gear around? Either you will, or you wont... casual situations? there are kevlar lined jeans (tardme) available.. look as good as normal jeans, some offer a cargo pant as well.

Bike boots are the 'best' thing but a good pair of industrial 'cowboy style' (johnny reb etc) are pretty reasonable, lace up boots are going to leak... period.

Helmet? do you have a $100 head? then buy a $100 helmet.
Some dealers have 'run out' stock that is at a reduced price. Go to the SHARP site. it's a UK test facility that has got a rating for helmets and is a good guide to helmet safety. There ARE some 'cheaper' helmets that score very high. Expensive lids usually have the 'niceties' of removable washable liners, better 'construction' better fixings, strap design etc... again with careful watching tardme can be a useful tool to aquire some good quality gear at a lower price, Caveat Emptor.

[bosslady]

Cheers for the help guys, just a little nervous about selling my car as I surf a bit and dont know what id do on long road trips.

Anyway, any specific things I should be looking for other than waterproofing and titanium protection in gear? Whats the differences between a $199 helmet and a $599 helmet. How much should I budget for good protective gear?

Was thinking maybe something like this? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-558905285.htm

I'm a tard, so can't help on the getting a bike front but first things first. Have you done your BHS and sat your learners? if not, get onto it asap.

As for gear, have a squizz at my thread here http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/154861-Have-I-made-some-newbie-mistakes lots of good advice, I was in the same position as you. I got almost everything online but it takes time and meant I lost two weeks of riding in summer cause I had no gear. If you choose to do the online route don't buy a helmet online, that's all I'll say! Difference between prices of those helmets vary. Could be features I.e. pull down visors inside to block the Sun, brand name, aesthetics I.e. pretty designs, fit (some helmets suit some people better than others) but some of it for sure can come down to safety. Anyway have a look at this website it's quite good http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/ wouldn't recommend those flip up helmets though, just a personal preference.. they pass the standard but I don't reckon they're as safe as a proper full jobby.

I like that my gear is waterproof but leathers are cooler and look cooler too... lol both would be good, think I'll get some leathers as my next Xmas pressy.

[bluninja]

All other posts cover most of what you've asked. In terms of helmets.....IMHO.....the price may not be an indicator of protection. Price seems to be more to do with brand and addtional comfort features. Here's an interesting site that compares helmets that have been tested http://sharp.direct.gov.uk/.

I currently have a basic LS2 helmet which is highly rated on the protection front, but is pretty basic on the features front.

[Skiwi]

First up a confession so you know I'm a bit vocal in my opinion. Helmet prices are a bug bear of mine...

I don't mind high priced helmets if it is because of additional safety features, it pisses me off when the price is ramped up for a "brand":angry2: because it gives a false impression you are safer just because you're dishing out more money.

There are plenty of sub $300 helmets that rate highly for safety, if you WANT to pay for additional features that's fine, but don't be sucked in to forking over extra $$$ because it is the latest fad brand.

Use the link on bluninja & boss lady posted so you can make an informed, rather than a "trendy" decision.

[Cam_NZ]

Wow thanks for your time guys!

Sweet so gear is easy, just needa find a suitable bike. As for the duel purposes, Im not a huge fan. Although they are cheaper to buy and run, I would like something fun to ride and travel with/go for weekend rides. Sports bikes or something like the gs500 are what im after.

http://www.motorcycletrader.co.nz/View/Used/KAWASAKI-ZXR250-1989/46106.aspx?N=0&Nf=P_Price%7cBTWN+1000+5000%7c&No=150

Something like this? maybe a little newer


As for selling my car, Im still torn. The things you guys listed e.g getting groceries and having kids, are not problems for me. So if they are the only majors then it looks likes I may not need a car.

Thanks again for your help

[Cam_NZ]

I really like this one, although it is a little expensive

http://www.motorcycletrader.co.nz/View/Used/KAWASAKI-ZXR250C-1995/40961.aspx?N=0&Nf=P_Price%7cBTWN+1000+5000%7c&No=240

[Cam_NZ]

I really like this one, although it is a little expensive

http://www.motorcycletrader.co.nz/View/Used/KAWASAKI-ZXR250C-1995/40961.aspx?N=0&Nf=P_Price%7cBTWN+1000+5000%7c&No=240

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-559716700.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-556635245.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-558905285.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-552353300.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-556448767.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-520385677.htm
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-540695146.htm

Pretty much the only bikes in auckland/close with low kms and learner approved. I do like the idea of getting something bigger than a 250cc now that Grey wolf has mentioned the pros. Although it is hard to find a decent bike over 250,close and approved.

Let me know what you think

[bosslady]

Old bikes with high ks I wouldn't go for personally. Without the mechanical know how they can get expensive and annoying very quickly...

[Glowerss]

Old inline 4 bikes, you're best avoiding. Basically, if you see one of these, until you know better what you're doing, I wouldn't buy em.

FZR/ZXR/CBR/bandit/gsxr/gsxacross are all best avoided. Some of the naked newer 250s are OK if they've been taken care of. Shit like a Honda Hornet 250 or a Yamaha Zeal will be OK if they've been looked after.

Those Hyosungs, by the way, have some REALLY extreme riding positions. I would go sit on one and decide if you can stand being hunched over first.

In truth, while you're just starting out, I'd recommend http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-556305102.htm . You won't want to keep it forever if you're doing a lot of motorway work, but they're super cheap, cheap as hell to run, can be mended with a hammer and some string, and they're amazing to learn on.

You'd be able to sell it on after a month or two for basically what you paid for it. I bought one for 1800, rode it 3 months while I learned how to ride, and then sold it for $2000.

That'll give you some time to learn what you do and don't like about bikes, and it'll give you a much better idea as to what you really want to grab. It's a cheap way to learn both how to ride and what kind of ride you really want.

Or you might discover riding isn't for you at all :laugh:

Either way I'd suggest something like a Gn250/scorpio to spend a month or two on learning the basics, that you can buy for next to nothing and flick it off for what ya paid.

[James Deuce]

Bikes are NOT cheaper to maintain. If they are, you're not looking after them properly. You don't have to replace a car's drive line every 20-50,000kms (everyone is different, because many people don't look after their chain at all) $400 will buy you 4 reasonable car tyres, but only one bike tyre once you get on to anything with a 180/50x17 rear tyre, service intervals are much more frequent than cars, and you can reasonably expect to find your bike lying on its side on the ground once every 12 months on average (there are many reasons for this, ranging from your own arse hattery to someone else's arse hattery to an unluckily strong gust of wind), requiring the expense and hassle of an insurance claim and annoying but expensive repairs and having to use pubic (sic) transport. There are a range of repairs you should make to any second hand bike you buy because I can bet that the following haven't been maintained on any learner legal bike:

1. Steering head bearings.
2. Chain & sprockets.
3. Battery.
4. Carb o-rings (if it is a carburetted bike)
5. Wheel bearings.
6. Swing arm bushes.
7. Cable lubing/replacement for throttle and clutch cables (unless the clutch is hydraulic).
8. Brake and Clutch fluid.
9. Mismatched tyres.

There's a whole bunch of other model specific things to look out for too.

Riding gear doesn't last forever either, so you need to budget for replacing gear, usually, gloves, boots, trousers, jacket and helmet in that order. Do NOT keep a helmet for more than five years. The liner is the issue not the shell. Polystyrene breaks down over time and loses its shape and ability to absorb impacts. You will probably need to replace at least 2 helmet visors as well and you are bound to lose luggage off your bike at some point. Buy the best gear you can afford, it does last longer. Make sure gloves don't have internal seams that will annoy you after about 10 minutes, make sure that jacket and trousers can be zipped together, but jacket and trousers that can be customised to the conditions, i.e. zip out thermal liners and the jacket should have a couple of vents, as least. Make sure you buy something that will cope with weather extremes, extreme cold (@100 km/hr, 15C ambient feels like 11C), wet weather, hot weather. You'd be better off with 2 pairs of gloves. One pair for Summer, one for Winter. You might want a tinted visor for sunny days, and clear one for bad weather or night riding.

[bosslady]

+1 to having two pairs of gloves.

I have leathers and am going to buy some drystars (waterproof) soon. Wish I'd had a spare pair on my way down to taupo in the cold, wind and rain. My gloves were soaked through and I was shaking and could hardly feel my hands when I arrived, lol.

I spent $60ish on a tinted visor and about $70 on a back protector insert for my jacket. My bike only had 7200k's on it when I got it and I changed the oil, filter and brake fluid when I got it and degreased the chain a few weeks ago. It's in very good nick, but for me this is a hobby nothing more so I don't mind spending some money. I'll need to start saving for new tyres soon and probably a new chain, sprocket etc. My car is about 13 years old and I just spent $1300 repairing it, that's almost what my bike costs! So yea, for me, the bike is cheap lol.

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah if the bike costs me the same as a car I would be happy with that. Main thing now is getting through traffick a little quicker and having some fun. Im probably going to keep my car for now and see how much I really need it.

As for gear im stumped a little on jackets and pants. Are there specific ones I should be on the look out for? And they should be waterproof with leather at the joints right?

As for getting a cheaper bike first, I dont personally see the point as I would rather spend a bit extra and get something thats appealing and fun to ride. May seem a little immature but I want a toy/hobby aswell as daily transport. Plus something I can have some fun with travelling either up north or around the corromandel when I have the urge.

And will definately invest in two pairs of gloves! especially in auckland haha!

[bosslady]

Yeah if the bike costs me the same as a car I would be happy with that. Main thing now is getting through traffick a little quicker and having some fun. Im probably going to keep my car for now and see how much I really need it.

As for gear im stumped a little on jackets and pants. Are there specific ones I should be on the look out for? And they should be waterproof with leather at the joints right?

As for getting a cheaper bike first, I dont personally see the point as I would rather spend a bit extra and get something thats appealing and fun to ride. May seem a little immature but I want a toy/hobby aswell as daily transport. Plus something I can have some fun with travelling either up north or around the corromandel when I have the urge.

And will definately invest in two pairs of gloves! especially in auckland haha!

I know I've already asked but I'll ask again anyway, have you done your BHS and learners theory yet?

As for getting through traffic quicker, that won't happen straight away, filtering/lane splitting will come with time but those transit lanes sure are great when the traffics backed all up onewa rd in the morning!

They don't HAVE to have leather joints, I think whomever was merely suggesting you take it into consideration. My alpinestars jacket and pants zip together and are made of cordura, I'm sure, and come with the standard factory armour. As I mentioned I upgraded the back protector and will do the same for the chest armour too, I just figure why not really... mine are waterproof because I knew I'd get caught out in crappy weather. I wish I had leathers cause they're cooler, supposedly, but as an all rounder, what I've got is the best option.

And I don't personally think you're being immature, I do understand where you're coming from.. originally I wanted a nice sports bike but opted for what I have now for a few reasons. Money is one, I could have spent way more on a bike but it would have meant I'd have to get cheaper gear and forgo some tuition, both of which were/are important to me. Other one is, as a learner I am going to, and probably have, put my bike through the ringers as most learners do really. She's been dropped a few times and made it through my learner induced abuse, thus far and she's still going strong and showing no signs of our... mishaps. I got her at very low mileage too, something you will struggle with in a 3k-ish budget. First bikes it seems are rarely if ever the only bikes...

[Cam_NZ]

No havent even booked any test yet. Its the first thing on the to do list if I decide to go for a bike. Bosslady, how do you find your bike powerwise?. Also fun to ride for long periods of time. They are in a really good price range, just again the whole young and wanting a sports bike deal comes in :laugh:

How high do kms need to be before they start becoming a problem?

What kind of revs will a 250 sit on going down the motorway?



Is this OTHER/MEDULLA brand of bike just a cheap takeoff? stay clear?

Thanks for your imput! you have no idea how lost I am

[James Deuce]

There's a vast range of 250s, and these "revs" that you speak of are entirely dependent on style of bike, number of cylinders, and so on.

You need to look at the list of LAMS bikes on the LTNZ site before you make your mind up. The only relatively modern 250 "sportsbike" is Kawasaki's Ninja 250 (there is a 300 version you can buy new too). The four cylinder bikes, with the exception of the Honda Hornet, are really just a bunch of thrashed, old, tired munt, that from a sports perspective don't hold a candle to any '80s two cylinder two stroke sportsbike, let alone the following which you're not allowed to ride on a learners or restricted:

LAMS-prohibited motorcycles list (250cc or under)
<tbody style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px; border: 0px; outline: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; background-color: transparent;">
Make
Model
cc




Aprilia
RS250
250




Honda
NSR250 (all models and variants)
250




Kawasaki
KR1 (all models and variants including KR250)
250




Suzuki
RGV250 (all models and variants)
250




Yamaha
TZR250 (all models and variants)
250

</tbody>

You can get Honda Hornets that were new in the 2000s. If you want a practical sporty ride I would suggest one of these ahead of any FZR, CBR, ZXR, or GSXR out there, unless you happen upon a REALLY good one. What some people describe as "mint" can only be a misspelling of "munt". I keep saying munt.

The list of what you're allowed can be found here:

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/licence/getting/motorcycles/approved-motorcycles.html

There are VERY few 250cc, four cylinder sportsbikes out there that are worth buying. I strongly suggest taking someone who "properly" knows about bikes or paying for an inspection by a motorcycle mechanic before buying. I even more strongly recommend buying new or near new. Then any disasters that happen are yours and yours alone and hopefully not bodged up with duct tape and chewing gum for the next chump, err, owner to sort out.

A GN is NOT a sportsbike. The good ones will struggle up to 120 km/hr with a tailwind. But they are good for learners because they will take appalling amounts of abuse and just keep going. The one thing they don't cope with is running low on oil, I think there's only 1.4 litres in there.

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah had a look at that list before I started looking, seems most 250's are allowed, but is hard to find something bigger in my pricerange on the approved list.

As for the hornet and the ninja, they are both bikes I am interested in! Kms wise, how much is too much?

Even the hyo gt250r isnt a gooer? There seems to be a few of them! Like this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-557275285.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-559807693.htm

Which bigger bikes would I be looking at?

Sorry for being annoying! haha

[bosslady]

No havent even booked any test yet. Its the first thing on the to do list if I decide to go for a bike. Bosslady, how do you find your bike powerwise?. Also fun to ride for long periods of time. They are in a really good price range, just again the whole young and wanting a sports bike deal comes in :laugh:

How high do kms need to be before they start becoming a problem?

What kind of revs will a 250 sit on going down the motorway?



Is this OTHER/MEDULLA brand of bike just a cheap takeoff? stay clear?

Thanks for your imput! you have no idea how lost I am


As was said, my bike isn't a sports bike, but that's likely what my next bike will be. Oh and I think it's 1.3L oil...

Power and my bike... my car is a 1.6L automatic, my bike gets up to speed phenomenally quicker than my car, that's the only comparison I can make really... I have a problem with keeping to the speed limit and I'm thankful my Ginny keeps me in check and is a little limited because I'd get in trouble otherwise, true story...

Km's being a problem.. someone with more experience will chime in but it would depend on type of bike, age of bike and how well it's been taken care of, mechanically...

I haven't been on too many long trips, been to taupo and did a big trip on sat and going to NP this weekend. The lower back does get a little sore but it's more mind over matter than anything else and I consider it a challenge!

Ummm revs. The Ginny red lines at 8500. Me @ 65kg, motorway, 5th gear, 100kmh, no wind, on the flat it's something like 6000ish rpm. As for wind.. I actually have a visor thing on my bike (see pics in my profile) which helps..

ahh yea think that's it..

[Dangsta]

I have a car, my motorbike and a couple of fixed gear push bikes. I use them all as the mood takes me or the weather permits. Totally up to you and your budget whether you keep the car too but any time I've ridden in the rain its been fuckin miserable. Went through some cheap helmets and gloves but now rock some A* gloves and a Shoei helmet. Dont know how safe they are cos ive never had them put to the test but fuck they feel good on. Pinlock visor was the best investment i ever made. Just sayin

[Cam_NZ]

sweet cheers again guys

As for the car, ill keep it for now atleast. I can see it getting a little old having to chuck on gear if i want to shoot off somewhere, or turning up to a party in full biker gear! :laugh:

As for the bike, am looking towards something in the ninja,gt250r, or older vtr area for something. May have to get a small loan from the bank to get something a little nicer and more reliable if thats a good idea?

And as for gear, i kinda know the basics, although i want to get it right the first time so ill head down to a few bike shops around auckland and get the gst of gear specs

[Monkfish]

sweet cheers again guys

And as for gear, i kinda know the basics, although i want to get it right the first time so ill head down to a few bike shops around auckland and get the gst of gear specs

I personally started riding only last month.

I got my gear from:

http://www.lifestyle-imports.co.nz/shop/ - Good gear and cheep to. (works out of a farm in Pukekawa) got a few containers of gear, (more than the site). best pay them a visit.

Also check out the Army surplus & Leather store in Onehunga. - I got my Jacket second hand from here, they have heaps of riding gear. But its like a box of chocolets you will never know whats your gonna get. :yes:

And Cycle Treads in barry's pnt rd on the shore is like shopping mecca. :drool:

[bosslady]

some of those 250cc ninjas have been thrashed to hell, so just be careful if that's what you decide to get.

[Cam_NZ]

some of those 250cc ninjas have been thrashed to hell, so just be careful if that's what you decide to get.

Will have to get it checked before i purchase one then

[Glowerss]

Yeah had a look at that list before I started looking, seems most 250's are allowed, but is hard to find something bigger in my pricerange on the approved list.

As for the hornet and the ninja, they are both bikes I am interested in! Kms wise, how much is too much?

Even the hyo gt250r isnt a gooer? There seems to be a few of them! Like this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-557275285.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/sports/auction-559807693.htm

Which bigger bikes would I be looking at?

Sorry for being annoying! haha

Seriously, go sit on a hyobag. The GT250rs have the serious race crouch thing going on. They're not a very friendly bike to sit on, particularly if you want to commute on it. That's quite aside from the fact that most of those hyobags you're looking at are older ones which are known to have......teething problems.

I've got a hornet, they're fantastic fucking bikes. Take care of them and they'll easily do 100,000+ kms with little more then regular oil changes.

That said, for the first 3 months of your riding life, you'd be faster on a Gn250/scorpio then you would on a Hornet :laugh: Hornet takes a lot of revs to get moving, and it's a bigger/heavier bike with big fat tires. Put a total beginner on any number of bikes, and they'll be ridden all the same. SLOW!:laugh:

Biking is absolutely about what makes you happy in the pants. In the end it's about what makes you happy.

That said, I'm still a big fan of starting on a shit little cheap as fuck bike that you can do all sorts of nasty shit too without wanting to kill yourself. A LARGE majority of beginners will drop their bikes. Doing that on a bike with a lot of plastic either gets expensive, or looks fuckin nasty. Dropping a fully faired bike you just spent 6k on hurts a hell of a lot more dropping a naked one you spent 1200 on :Punk:

Really though, go sit your BHS. Then go to various bike shops and sit on EVERYTHING that you can to get an idea of what you want. You might decide against certain bikes because they're not comfortable or you don't like the riding position or whatever. Especially as somebody whose never ridden before. There's no replacement for seat time!

[Cam_NZ]

Seriously, go sit on a hyobag. The GT250rs have the serious race crouch thing going on. They're not a very friendly bike to sit on, particularly if you want to commute on it. That's quite aside from the fact that most of those hyobags you're looking at are older ones which are known to have......teething problems.

I've got a hornet, they're fantastic fucking bikes. Take care of them and they'll easily do 100,000+ kms with little more then regular oil changes.

That said, for the first 3 months of your riding life, you'd be faster on a Gn250/scorpio then you would on a Hornet :laugh: Hornet takes a lot of revs to get moving, and it's a bigger/heavier bike with big fat tires. Put a total beginner on any number of bikes, and they'll be ridden all the same. SLOW!:laugh:

Biking is absolutely about what makes you happy in the pants. In the end it's about what makes you happy.

That said, I'm still a big fan of starting on a shit little cheap as fuck bike that you can do all sorts of nasty shit too without wanting to kill yourself. A LARGE majority of beginners will drop their bikes. Doing that on a bike with a lot of plastic either gets expensive, or looks fuckin nasty. Dropping a fully faired bike you just spent 6k on hurts a hell of a lot more dropping a naked one you spent 1200 on :Punk:

Really though, go sit your BHS. Then go to various bike shops and sit on EVERYTHING that you can to get an idea of what you want. You might decide against certain bikes because they're not comfortable or you don't like the riding position or whatever. Especially as somebody whose never ridden before. There's no replacement for seat time!


Hahaha not a fan of hyosung's then? any thoughts on the ninja? differences between air and water cooled?

Will definately sit my BHS ASAP and get my licencing done quick as. Thats when Ill start searching bike shops for gear and try some of their bikes

the hornet is on the list definately, doesnt have difinative sport look, but can just tell it looks fun to ride, and ive seen a lot around so must be popular! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/tourers/auction-556575677.htm

Mates just bought a ninja so will have a sit on it and see how it feels.

You know that feeling when your so keen for something, and you've worked yourself up to buying something that its all you think about and you just want to chuck money at it, thats what I have now haha!

Cheers

[wysper]

Ok, I'll jump in from a boring old farts perspective. Been riding for over 25 years. Many of those years a bike was my only transport.

My opinion on saving money. YOU WONT. Well you just might on gas..... but two decent tires on a bike are often more expensive than an average set of 4 on a camry.
Then there is gear, add ons, bolt ons (which can include but are not limited to panniers, racks, exhausts, suspension mods, mirrors, seat improvements etc). Chaps and tassels for us Harley riders.

On gear, I am in my third age of gear, the first being what ever I could beg borrow or steal, the second being some pretty cool expensive shit with lots of trendy bits and bobs (because I could afford it). Triple stitched this, knox armoured that...... Now I am in the third age. The Age of Comfort. Now comfort is more important that the latest and greatest safest mod con.
In winter, I want to be warm, dry and safe. In that order. And will buy accordingly. Summer, cool as possible and safe. Best bit of safety gear you have is right between your ears.

Helmet, get what fits properly and is comfortable. That Sharp site is good for pointing you in the right direction.





And as for gear, i kinda know the basics, although i want to get it right the first time so ill head down to a few bike shops around auckland and get the gst of gear specs

Oh and on this, you won't get it right the first time. It will take time to find what YOU like and feel good in. Also, if you change your style of bike, sometimes the gear that was sweet on a cruiser isn't so crash hot on a sprotsbike. And I am not talking fashion sense here, those that know me will realise I have none.

Bikes are fun. Buying all the cool shit that goes with them is fun too. Enjoy!

[Cam_NZ]

Ok turns out my budget is just below 5k for a bike itself. So hopefully get a low km ninja or I would like something bigger than 250, yet dont know what models are good or not on that front.

As for the hornet... there are no decent post 2000 bikes on tardme in my pricerange, are the 1998's any good?

[Subike]

Gunna toss a spanner in the works here
Want a cheap as, fun bike to learn on?
A bike that will happily sit at 110+kph on the open road, all day without complaining,
A bike that will get 200k+ out of 8 liters of fuel
A bike that will happily pull up any hill around any corner and down again, with out wheezing, stuttering, or running out of breath
A bike that has the ability of getting 15000k+ out of a pair of tires
A bike that had no problem doing the brass monkey in the middle of winter, woodstock, middle of summer.
Plus several other rallys more than 200k from home base.
Well bugger me its a Chinese metric cruiser, only 250CC and $4450 BRAND NEW!

And they are available on trade me from 2500 - 3500 right now,

Thash it, it will not complain, plod along at 30k in top, it does not complain, toss on a pile of gear and ride to the other end of the island, It will just dang well do it.

Ahh, but no, its too girly for you young fellas, or its too plastic for your purists, I'll get laughed at....you will say when you look at it.

The Harley boys climbing the Oteria gorge were rather embarrassed by it, third gear, throttle pined it did it .....showed them its heels it did..plenty of sharp corners helped.
Keeway 250 Supershadow.....bugger me if its not a Chinese piece of shit, or is it?

[McFatty1000]

Something else to look at might be the honda cb range, great commuter bikes and should sell well when you decide to upgrade after riding a few months

Starting on my cb250 was one of the best things ever for confidence and reliability, my current bike, not so much on the latter; def need a back up form of transport for the older sportier little bikes

[Cam_NZ]

Something else to look at might be the honda cb range, great commuter bikes and should sell well when you decide to upgrade after riding a few months

Starting on my cb250 was one of the best things ever for confidence and reliability, my current bike, not so much on the latter; def need a back up form of transport for the older sportier little bikes

Such as the hornet? there are two decent looking ones on trademe, but someone said something about getting year 2000+, are the 1998 ones still decent?

As for the chinese cruiser... i cant find it anywhere, or is it not actually called a chinese metric cruiser?

[unstuck]

or is it not actually called a chinese metric cruiser?

KEEYWAY 250 supershadow.:Punk:

[Monkfish]

KEEYWAY 250 supershadow.:Punk:

Arnt they basically a Honda?

[Subike]

Arnt they basically a Honda?


Picture copy of a Yamaha XVS 250 Virago , or as they are now called a Star.
A bike that has been around since the 80's.
$2000+ dollars cheaper to buy new than its cousin

[Glowerss]

Such as the hornet? there are two decent looking ones on trademe, but someone said something about getting year 2000+, are the 1998 ones still decent?

As for the chinese cruiser... i cant find it anywhere, or is it not actually called a chinese metric cruiser?

Hornets are fine regardless of year by and large, just make sure it's been maintained properly.

Mines a 97 and runs like a dream. I had to replace chain/sprockets when I got it (still on original sprockets at 37,000km ) but otherwise everythings fine.

Quite a few Kbers have owned hornets that hit the 100,000km mark and were still going strong.

[Cam_NZ]

So my banks been emptied. Have many additions in my garage, will post picks up of my hopefully decent riding gear and bike. Went for a little scoot round howick to get used to the bike (dont have my licence so hopefully no cops flick their lights!) Is actually so fun, why am I only getting a bike now!

Cheers guys

[unstuck]

Well, what did you get?:wait:

[Cam_NZ]

Ok so heres the list:

Bike:

2008 kawasaki Ninja 250r, 21,000km, blue, with full service history. Few little stone scratches near the bottom of the fairings.

Gear:

Jacket, http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1136-dririder_mens_textile_jackets/9591-dririder_2012_apex_2_textile_j.aspx

Pants:http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1117-dririder_mens_textile_pantstro/9241-dririder_2012_blizzard_2_texti.aspx

Gloves:http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1162-dririder_leathertextile_mens_g/9254-dririder_2012_velocity_gloves_.aspx

Boots:http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1303-gaerne_road_and_sport_boots/4436-gaerne_grw_aquatech_roadsport_.aspx

Helmethttp://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1028-ls2_full_face_helmets/7660-ls2_full_face_helmet_ff350351.aspx

Bought this helmet but it sucks so am getting it replaced with this one : http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1028-ls2_full_face_helmets/10003-ls2_ff384_blade_full_face_helm.aspx



So what do you guys think? I pretty much just listened to what the lady at cycletreads told me to get so this is the outcome.
What do you guys do about the heat? I swear wearing all this yesturday almost killed me .

Whos keen to go for a ride? haha

[unstuck]

What do you guys do about the heat? I swear wearing all this yesturday almost killed me .

Go faster. Well done on your purchases. Ride safe.:Punk:

[Madness]

What do you guys do about the heat?

Keep moving.

[Cam_NZ]

Ok I have another question...

Is there any point in getting frame sliders as a noob? will they save the fairings at all if/when the drop does happen?

Am already keen to do a few mods/tidy ups. Get some flush indicators and get aftermarket rear taillight etc.

AND NEED TO GET SOME KIND OF CARRY BAG/ PANNIER FOR UNI!!!! the bigger the better so i can leave my jacket and pants in it when im at uni

[unstuck]

Ok I have another question...

Is there any point in getting frame sliders as a noob? will they save the fairings at all if/when the drop does happen?

Am already keen to do a few mods/tidy ups. Get some flush indicators and get aftermarket rear taillight etc.

AND NEED TO GET SOME KIND OF CARRY BAG/ PANNIER FOR UNI!!!! the bigger the better so i can leave my jacket and pants in it when im at uni

Personally I would focus more on staying upright than dropping it. But thats just me.:innocent:

[Subike]

Personally I would focus more on staying upright than dropping it. But thats just me.:innocent:

agree, ride inside your skill till you get use to it, then only push a little bit at a time.
Back packs can hold more than you think if you pack them right.

[Cam_NZ]

Anyone know/ keen to go for a decent ride somewhere close to auckland near the end of the week? needa get some experience in before i start heading to the northshore everyday!

[bosslady]

Anyone know/ keen to go for a decent ride somewhere close to auckland near the end of the week? needa get some experience in before i start heading to the northshore everyday!

I will go for a ride with you if you like, when you are legal :)

[Cam_NZ]

I will go for a ride with you if you like, when you are legal :)

Handling booked for tuesday night and learners on wednesday... so will be legal unless i've forgotten the road code and havent learnt the specialist questions... or the handling test is strict as hell..


But should be good :Punk:

[bosslady]

Handling booked for tuesday night and learners on wednesday... so will be legal unless i've forgotten the road code and havent learnt the specialist questions... or the handling test is strict as hell..


But should be good :Punk:

I'm sure you should pass the BHS. Because honestly, if I can pass it then almost anyone else should be able to too... JMHO!

As for the learners. Dude, study, study, study, really. I only studied overnight but if I hadn't of, I wouldn't have passed for sure. There's some really random shit in there and some of the things where I KNEW the answer but the wording caught me out and made me second guess myself, but because I had studied I still got it.

The following links are invaluable. Particulary 3 and 4.

1. http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/motorcycle-road-code/theory-test-questions/
2. http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/motorcycle-road-code/theory-test-questions/specialist-questions-motorcyclists.html
3. http://nzroadcodetest.co.nz/practice-tests/
4. http://www.drivingtests.co.nz/roadcode/motorbike/

You could go into it and not study and hopefully pass, I just basically didn't want to waste however much it cost me PLUS my time if I failed. Also not having my licence I wasn't able to get insurance for my bike and gear and not having a licence would mean that I am missing the fine weather we're having in which I could be riding!

[Cam_NZ]

I'm sure you should pass the BHS. Because honestly, if I can pass it then almost anyone else should be able to too... JMHO!

As for the learners. Dude, study, study, study, really. I only studied overnight but if I hadn't of, I wouldn't have passed for sure. There's some really random shit in there and some of the things where I KNEW the answer but the wording caught me out and made me second guess myself, but because I had studied I still got it.

The following links are invaluable. Particulary 3 and 4.

1. http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/motorcycle-road-code/theory-test-questions/
2. http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/motorcycle-road-code/theory-test-questions/specialist-questions-motorcyclists.html
3. http://nzroadcodetest.co.nz/practice-tests/
4. http://www.drivingtests.co.nz/roadcode/motorbike/

You could go into it and not study and hopefully pass, I just basically didn't want to waste however much it cost me PLUS my time if I failed. Also not having my licence I wasn't able to get insurance for my bike and gear and not having a licence would mean that I am missing the fine weather we're having in which I could be riding!

Yeah they tried to con me into doing a "refresher" test before my bhs for extra $$....

And for the learners, i have the roadcode and ive done that drivingtest online quiz thing countless times. All straight forward, just needed to learn the specialized questions... But definately studying every night this week... cant really justify winging it and possibly failing! haha

[bosslady]

Yeah they tried to con me into doing a "refresher" test before my bhs for extra $$....

And for the learners, i have the roadcode and ive done that drivingtest online quiz thing countless times. All straight forward, just needed to learn the specialized questions... But definately studying every night this week... cant really justify winging it and possibly failing! haha

I couldn't say whether or not the refresher is worth it because I don't know anything about your level of "expertise". But for me I had at least an hours lesson before I sat my test because I quite literally had never really even sat on a bike before or.. even turned one on (I had to be shown how!) and I knew nothing of gear changing and shit and am uncoordinated as f*ck. It's a bloody miracle that I passed, honestly.

[Cam_NZ]

I couldn't say whether or not the refresher is worth it because I don't know anything about your level of "expertise". But for me I had at least an hours lesson before I sat my test because I quite literally had never really even sat on a bike before or.. even turned one on (I had to be shown how!) and I knew nothing of gear changing and shit and am uncoordinated as f*ck. It's a bloody miracle that I passed, honestly.

My experience is all to do with dirtbikes and old farm bikes, so handling shouldnt be an issue. Already went for a ride and smoothly got up to 5th gear going 80 or so kmph

[Danzano]

My experience is all to do with dirtbikes and old farm bikes, so handling shouldnt be an issue. Already went for a ride and smoothly got up to 5th gear going 80 or so kmph

You should be fine there are differences between the two when it comes to how they handle but I'm sure you will figure that out :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[bosslady]

Good luck for your BHS tonight Cam. Though, I am sure you won't need it (the luck).

[Cam_NZ]

Good luck for your BHS tonight Cam. Though, I am sure you won't need it (the luck).

Cheers for that! I'll let you know how it goes

278416 quick pic

[Danzano]

Cheers for that! I'll let you know how it goes

quick pic

See with bikes like this we should organize rides again for us newer people

Also cam just got my licence in the mail and trust me if I was fine you are now probably waiting for the same :-)

They take around 2 weeks to post em

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[bosslady]

I presume you passed? Must be your learners theory today too?

Sad, both of you guys have pretty sakis, I have an aesthetically unpleasing ginny :(

[bluninja]

I presume you passed? Must be your learners theory today too?

Sad, both of you guys have pretty sakis, I have an aesthetically unpleasing ginny :(

Nah this is an aesthetically unpleasing Ginny
278468

[TheTengTheory]

See with bikes like this we should organize rides again for us newer people

Also cam just got my licence in the mail and trust me if I was fine you are now probably waiting for the same :-)

They take around 2 weeks to post em

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

I'll be keen to join in...Moving up to North Shore end of feb...

[Danzano]

I presume you passed? Must be your learners theory today too?

Sad, both of you guys have pretty sakis, I have an aesthetically unpleasing ginny :(

I think we should start a thread for newbie rides and who ever is available that particular weekend can cruise

And a ginny is a good starting point who cares about looks it's what feels right for the person I like to think of my bike as an extension of me therefore it must feel right to me :-)

And I bet he passed look at the incentive he has a nice ninja waiting to be ridden

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Danzano]

I'll be keen to join in...Moving up to North Shore end of feb...

I live twenty minutes from the shore so would be good if a couple more are keen I'll start a new thread

Also that picture = lmao

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[bosslady]

I wouldn't mind going on the occasional ride with a newbie but TBH I am a little dubious. Only because we are exactly that... Newbies I mean, and I don't want to learn any bad habits or technique (nor do I want anyone learning mine) so do prefer to ride with more experienced riders. So yea, don't mind the occasional ride, but a group of newbs? I dunno, haha.

[Cam_NZ]

Haha yep passed my bhs last night (the woman was such a cow, but the husband passed me so :headbang:)

And aced the test this morning 35/35, took my licence so no pub/clubbing for me for a few weeks :P

As for setting up a group, im keen! I dont mind riding with other newbies, bosslady does have a point, maybe it doesnt have to be exclusive, but more inclined to help newbies out with a few of the experienced fullas in lead. Whatever it is i needa get some experience down so im keen for whatever we can come up with.

And the photo makes it look better than in is, it hides the bloody white stone scratches it has on the bottom of the fairings :(

[bosslady]

Haha yep passed my bhs last night (the woman was such a cow, but the husband passed me so :headbang:)

And aced the test this morning 35/35, took my licence so no pub/clubbing for me for a few weeks :P

As for setting up a group, im keen! I dont mind riding with other newbies, bosslady does have a point, maybe it doesnt have to be exclusive, but more inclined to help newbies out with a few of the experienced fullas in lead. Whatever it is i needa get some experience down so im keen for whatever we can come up with.

And the photo makes it look better than in is, it hides the bloody white stone scratches it has on the bottom of the fairings :(

It would be worth going to a NASS or SASS (???) for a good mix of newbies/semi experienced/really experienced peeps. Maybe not tonight though... it's raining pretty hard hahahaha.

Who did you do your BHS with? You can PM me if you don't want to say, I am curious however.

[Cam_NZ]

It would be worth going to a NASS or SASS (???) for a good mix of newbies/semi experienced/really experienced peeps. Maybe not tonight though... it's raining pretty hard hahahaha.

Who did you do your BHS with? You can PM me if you don't want to say, I am curious however.

NASS and SASS stand for??

And went to Rider training. The guy was a real gc, showed me what i should be doing while the people before me were doing there lesson on how to do it. I went the wrong way on 2 i think and he just got me to go back around and passed me. So cool dude, just a bit of a snotty wife :P

[bosslady]

NASS and SASS stand for??

And went to Rider training. The guy was a real gc, showed me what i should be doing while the people before me were doing there lesson on how to do it. I went the wrong way on 2 i think and he just got me to go back around and passed me. So cool dude, just a bit of a snotty wife :P

North Auckland Street Skills or South Auckland Street Skills. You'll find the threads in here somewhere http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/forumdisplay.php/3-Meetings-and-Events
I got some great tips/tricks etc. but as with everything, take it with a grain of salt/pick and choose what you feel is right from there and even better, ask questions later on here or do your own further research. It would be well worth getting some extra tuitition, it may just help you get *there* quicker in terms of learning things/upping your skill JMO.

Also, I went to them also and I really liked both of them and they have been so friendly and supportive via email (although I don't really email them anymore, but when I first started etc.). I did have Steve though who trained me, think I had 2-3 lessons incl. my BHS. He is super thorough and spends so much time on people, well he did with me anyway, to help me pass/get my confidence up but it means he runs late because of it and the people after have to wait a little longer hahaha. I think I made some poor guy wait at least an extra half hour because Steve was taking his time with me.

[Cam_NZ]

North Auckland Street Skills or South Auckland Street Skills. You'll find the threads in here somewhere http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/forumdisplay.php/3-Meetings-and-Events
I got some great tips/tricks etc. but as with everything, take it with a grain of salt/pick and choose what you feel is right from there and even better, ask questions later on here or do your own further research. It would be well worth getting some extra tuitition, it may just help you get *there* quicker in terms of learning things/upping your skill JMO.

Also, I went to them also and I really liked both of them and they have been so friendly and supportive via email (although I don't really email them anymore, but when I first started etc.). I did have Steve though who trained me, think I had 2-3 lessons incl. my BHS. He is super thorough and spends so much time on people, well he did with me anyway, to help me pass/get my confidence up but it means he runs late because of it and the people after have to wait a little longer hahaha. I think I made some poor guy wait at least an extra half hour because Steve was taking his time with me.

Ok maybe it was just my doing in turning up too early. The guy was great though!

I might see about going to NASS or something, but I would rather go for cruises with some helpful experienced people giving me tips etc.

Will see how I go anyway, for now its just city cruises and maybe a trip out to kawakawa.

[TheTengTheory]

Ok maybe it was just my doing in turning up too early. The guy was great though!

I might see about going to NASS or something, but I would rather go for cruises with some helpful experienced people giving me tips etc.

Will see how I go anyway, for now its just city cruises and maybe a trip out to kawakawa.

I'm keen...I find seat time helps the most. First weekend I'll probably be heading back to palmy for an event but the weekends after I'm thinking about a coro loop day trip.

[Cam_NZ]

I'm keen...I find seat time helps the most. First weekend I'll probably be heading back to palmy for an event but the weekends after I'm thinking about a coro loop day trip.

Yeah coro sounds really good! i know heaps of spots through thames and what not to stop at aswell if you're the type of person thats keen on site seeing and waterholes etc.

Also looking at doing a trip up north somewhere. i've never been past whangarei so would be a good experience

[Danzano]

Yeah coro sounds really good! i know heaps of spots through thames and what not to stop at aswell if you're the type of person thats keen on site seeing and waterholes etc.

Also looking at doing a trip up north somewhere. i've never been past whangarei so would be a good experience

I was looking at a trip to kerikeri and back
I will start a thread for all newbie riders who want to go for a weekend cruises including myself

I have to wait till the 28th for my bike but can join you guys after that :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Gremlin]

Maha regularly runs weekend learner rides, 3 or 4 a year I think. Well worth getting out there and seeing the country side.

Last L ride: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/155046-L-s-Angels-Ride-to-the-Naki-%28Feb-9-10%29-2013

[Subike]

Maha regularly runs weekend learner rides, 3 or 4 a year I think. Well worth getting out there and seeing the country side.

Last L ride: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/155046-L-s-Angels-Ride-to-the-Naki-%28Feb-9-10%29-2013

This is what you need to get into guys,
Learners riding with learners is a recipe for disaster. You are all so keen, yet so ignorant, it can all turn to custard at the first corner. I have seen it happen before, I would say others will have too. A group of learners on small bikes, with lots of enthusiasm and very little skill... Owch!
Go ride with experienced riders if you want to ride in a group, an LISTEN TO THEM, dont think they dont know cause they old or what ever.
Or because the bike that they ride is a quadrillion years old.....its still being ridden, and they still alive...why??

[Cam_NZ]

This is what you need to get into guys,
Learners riding with learners is a recipe for disaster. You are all so keen, yet so ignorant, it can all turn to custard at the first corner. I have seen it happen before, I would say others will have too. A group of learners on small bikes, with lots of enthusiasm and very little skill... Owch!
Go ride with experienced riders if you want to ride in a group, an LISTEN TO THEM, dont think they dont know cause they old or what ever.
Or because the bike that they ride is a quadrillion years old.....its still being ridden, and they still alive...why??

For sure, I respect the experienced ones the MOST. Would be great to get out with so cruisy people that probably know all the good roads. Just need to find willing people, must be quite frustrating riding with learners sometimes. But if anyone is interested to go for a cruise sometime in the next few weeks then i would be very thankful

Just went for my first ride to mission bay (taking the back roads, too scared to hit 100 just yet) was really good, a few idiots right up my ass dispite the fact i was travelling just over 60/speed limit. Gets quite hot and tiring after a while, dont know how guys go all day!!

Ill post the few pictures we took. My mate has a aftermarket exhaust on his... actually sucks following him. Dont know if i want to get one myself or just ride without him :P

[Cam_NZ]

278493

278495

Pic from today, pretty decent weather

[bosslady]

beautiful!!

[Cam_NZ]

Cheers! you should come for a cruise down there one day, so enjoyable riding around the coast at slower speeds

[bosslady]

Cheers! you should come for a cruise down there one day, so enjoyable riding around the coast at slower speeds

to mission bay? I find the open road a bit more enjoyable, too much traffic at MB

[Glowerss]

For sure, I respect the experienced ones the MOST. Would be great to get out with so cruisy people that probably know all the good roads. Just need to find willing people, must be quite frustrating riding with learners sometimes. But if anyone is interested to go for a cruise sometime in the next few weeks then i would be very thankful

Just went for my first ride to mission bay (taking the back roads, too scared to hit 100 just yet) was really good, a few idiots right up my ass dispite the fact i was travelling just over 60/speed limit. Gets quite hot and tiring after a while, dont know how guys go all day!!

Ill post the few pictures we took. My mate has a aftermarket exhaust on his... actually sucks following him. Dont know if i want to get one myself or just ride without him :P

Ninja 250s with aftermarket exhausts sound ridiculous :bleh: Don't do it! Spend the 400$ some odd on better gear/training instead :second:

It's significantly less hot riding at 100ish KPH then 60.

Anyway, good onya for getting out there and riding. Glad to see you found a suitable bike!

[bosslady]

Ninja 250s with aftermarket exhausts sound ridiculous :bleh: Don't do it! Spend the 400$ some odd on better gear/training instead :second:

It's significantly less hot riding at 100ish KPH then 60.

Anyway, good onya for getting out there and riding. Glad to see you found a suitable bike!

Glowerss is right. Spend the money on gear or even better, training course(s)!! don't gay up your bike!

[Cam_NZ]

to mission bay? I find the open road a bit more enjoyable, too much traffic at MB

Any rides you would recommend?

And yeah i guess the exhaust are a little gay, no one turns when they hear my bike though hahah! i dont need one, i need to get a new rear light at somestage, and after a few months i want to paint the bloody scratches out of my fairings!

[bosslady]

Any rides you would recommend?

And yeah i guess the exhaust are a little gay, no one turns when they hear my bike though hahah! i dont need one, i need to get a new rear light at somestage, and after a few months i want to paint the bloody scratches out of my fairings!

I reckon save the sweet mods for a bike you're gonna have for longer.Depending what I get next I'll prolly try n pimp it up! nice to get little stuff like scratches touched up though.

As for rides, don't ask me! I always get lost and the "lost" ends up being the ride. I just follow signs and hope for the best, it hasn't always worked out well hahaha

[Cam_NZ]

I reckon save the sweet mods for a bike you're gonna have for longer.Depending what I get next I'll prolly try n pimp it up! nice to get little stuff like scratches touched up though.

As for rides, don't ask me! I always get lost and the "lost" ends up being the ride. I just follow signs and hope for the best, it hasn't always worked out well hahaha

Yeah my rear light at the moment though is out of place and needs replacing anyway, and yes white and blue are contrasting colours so the scratches stand out!

Yeah as for rides I need a place to go, otherwise ill just find myself going in circles around howick or something

[bosslady]

Yeah my rear light at the moment though is out of place and needs replacing anyway, and yes white and blue are contrasting colours so the scratches stand out!

Yeah as for rides I need a place to go, otherwise ill just find myself going in circles around howick or something

I asked in the other thread but your bhs, theory sorted now etc. got your L plate fitted too? keen for a ride tomorrow night?

[Cam_NZ]

I asked in the other thread but your bhs, theory sorted now etc. got your L plate fitted too? keen for a ride tomorrow night?

Yup all license and BHS'ed up. L plate isnt FITTED, its just kinda on there for now. I need to actually spend some time putting it on properly.

I am working tommorrow afternoon until 9, and until 10 on friday. So doesnt quite fit. Im free in the mornings and also on saturday if any of those times fit

[bosslady]

Yup all license and BHS'ed up. L plate isnt FITTED, its just kinda on there for now. I need to actually spend some time putting it on properly.

I am working tommorrow afternoon until 9, and until 10 on friday. So doesnt quite fit. Im free in the mornings and also on saturday if any of those times fit


Nah I work 7-5 haha. Out of town Saturday. Perhaps can sort something next week?

[Cam_NZ]

Nah I work 7-5 haha. Out of town Saturday. Perhaps can sort something next week?

yeah for sure, afternoons are fine for me earlier in the week so just send me a message when your free!

[TheTengTheory]

Nah I work 7-5 haha. Out of town Saturday. Perhaps can sort something next week?

I'll be up in auckland next weekend....my L plate use to be on there...I believe it sheared itself off sometime in the last few months. Still has the top bit of it which I plan to use as my alibi when I get pulled. I will probably attempt to replace it sooner or later...No point if it keeps snapping though.

[Cam_NZ]

I'll be up in auckland next weekend....my L plate use to be on there...I believe it sheared itself off sometime in the last few months. Still has the top bit of it which I plan to use as my alibi when I get pulled. I will probably attempt to replace it sooner or later...No point if it keeps snapping though.

Just try putting it somewhere else, or maybe use an extra bolt to hold it on

[bosslady]

I'll be up in auckland next weekend....my L plate use to be on there...I believe it sheared itself off sometime in the last few months. Still has the top bit of it which I plan to use as my alibi when I get pulled. I will probably attempt to replace it sooner or later...No point if it keeps snapping though.

Hahaha you talking to me about shit that your bike has done to your L plate?

Looky at this!

[Danzano]

Hahaha you talking to me about shit that your bike has done to your L plate?

Looky at this!

That's awesome hope the cheap ones I got don't get ripped up even quicker lol

I got my L plates from count down and gonna bolt one on to the licence plate if it breaks at least I have a spare and they only cost $10

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[TheTengTheory]

That's awesome hope the cheap ones I got don't get ripped up even quicker lol

I got my L plates from count down and gonna bolt one on to the licence plate if it breaks at least I have a spare and they only cost $10

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

2 Dollar shop for me....first one last three weeks...Second lasted one morning.

Booslady: I see your photo and raise you mine.
:2thumbsup
This is the second one278517

[bosslady]

2 Dollar shop for me....first one last three weeks...Second lasted one morning.

Booslady: I see your photo and raise you mine.
:2thumbsup
This is the second one

That's pretty much epically f*cked. You win! Must be quite brittle? My one is a bit flimsy, it was my fat ass sitting on my bike and the tyre obviously burnt out that curve in the bottom of my L plate. Although I still don't really understand, maybe I was riding backwards, hah.

[TheTengTheory]

That's pretty much epically f*cked. You win! Must be quite brittle? My one is a bit flimsy, it was my fat ass sitting on my bike and the tyre obviously burnt out that curve in the bottom of my L plate. Although I still don't really understand, maybe I was riding backwards, hah.

I have a feeling its the tyres coming up under acceleration or cornering that does mine in...I don't bother anyways...I needa get a hard plastic one...those ones are too flexible....Maybe once I hack off the bottom....Does anyone know if those reflectors are a LTA requirement? It makes a great spot for my rego.

[bogan]

I have a feeling its the tyres coming up under acceleration or cornering that does mine in...I don't bother anyways...I needa get a hard plastic one...those ones are too flexible....Maybe once I hack off the bottom....Does anyone know if those reflectors are a LTA requirement? It makes a great spot for my rego.

Yeh those reflectors are a requirement. I think most people are happy to have their L-plates do that, means the cops are unlikely to ticket you for it, but motorists are unlikely to notice you have one, including cops if you do more than 70kmhr, or have they scrapped that law now?

[bosslady]

Yeh those reflectors are a requirement. I think most people are happy to have their L-plates do that, means the cops are unlikely to ticket you for it, but motorists are unlikely to notice you have one, including cops if you do more than 70kmhr, or have they scrapped that law now?

No more 70kmh limit. New limit is 150kmh for learners.


JUST JOKING. But really, no 70kmh limit.

[The End]

Mint day for a ride.

278521

You can always photoshop out the L plate ya know :niceone:

[bosslady]

Mint day for a ride.

You can always photoshop out the L plate ya know :niceone:

Why would you want to do that? I'm proud of my L plate!

[Cam_NZ]

Mint day for a ride.

You can always photoshop out the L plate ya know :niceone:

Haha i dont really mind the L plate but cheers for the pic! good weather today

[arcane12]

I was looking at a trip to kerikeri and back
I will start a thread for all newbie riders who want to go for a weekend cruises including myself

I have to wait till the 28th for my bike but can join you guys after that :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Day trip to Kerikeri, or weekend trip?

[Danzano]

Day trip to Kerikeri, or weekend trip?

Was thinking weekend trip but I guess if you where feeling hardy a day trip would be ok give or take 3hours each way so stop in whangarei for a feed and a rest round trip would be 10hours with rest and food I guess

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Maha]

Day trip to Kerikeri, or weekend trip?

Day trip to Paihia, get George Formby to cook you a feed...:cool:

[Danzano]

No more 70kmh limit. New limit is 150kmh for learners.


JUST JOKING. But really, no 70kmh limit.

Thank god for that I hated that rule and always thought it was dangerous glad to know I can stay with traffic flow legally :-)

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[Maha]

Was thinking weekend trip but I guess if you where feeling hardy a day trip would be ok give or take 3hours each way so stop in whangarei for a feed and a rest round trip would be 10hours with rest and food I guess

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

To give you and idea of times...
We left New Plymouth last Sunday at 10:15 as a learner group..got home at 5:30, with a decent lunch stop and four other brief stops...420kms.

[Cam_NZ]

Was thinking weekend trip but I guess if you where feeling hardy a day trip would be ok give or take 3hours each way so stop in whangarei for a feed and a rest round trip would be 10hours with rest and food I guess

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Im heading to Whangarei on the 16th of march, so if your still keen for this trip then i could come as far as whangarei and just peel off when we get there?

[Danzano]

Im heading to Whangarei on the 16th of march, so if your still keen for this trip then i could come as far as whangarei and just peel off when we get there?

As long as I have that weekend off then yeah I'd be keen as have to see though joy of working rosters

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[TheTengTheory]

As long as I have that weekend off then yeah I'd be keen as have to see though joy of working rosters

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

I might be keen...see how the funds are as I'm a student now (goodbye full time wage :baby: )

I'm actually keen for a city ride...Needa explore auckland...I fully see myself getting hopelessly lost very often this year.

[arcane12]

Was thinking weekend trip but I guess if you where feeling hardy a day trip would be ok give or take 3hours each way so stop in whangarei for a feed and a rest round trip would be 10hours with rest and food I guess

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Oh no, no day trips (of that distance) for me! From Hamilton it's about 370kms. 250km from Auckland. The usual rule of thumb (for cars at least) is usually 1h per 80kms plus stops. The motorway part does change those numbers a bit as usually you'll end up doing 100 (ish) most of the time with no 50's etc so it usually knocks a good chunk off.

Put me down as vaguely keen - still getting used to long distances. I did well on the New Plymouth run, but that was only 250km for me. An extra hour or more in the saddle might do me in! My body asks a little more from my suspension and seat than some other riders ;)

[Cam_NZ]

Ok bringing the thread back to newbie questions. Has anyone had any experience in changing the sprocket ratio? Im going to be doing mostly motorway riding and it sits at around 8000rpm at 100. Might just be me coming from 3000 in a car, but is it worth it to get a different ratio in the sprockets to bring down 6th gear rpm? ( milage-wise and also longevity) Or will keeping it at 8000 be comfortable enough for motorway and long trips.

[Gremlin]

Has anyone had any experience in changing the sprocket ratio? Im going to be doing mostly motorway riding and it sits at around 8000rpm at 100.
If you do that, you will also get a reduction in acceleration... your call.

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah might be alright. Im not really sure where 2fiddies should be sitting revs wise at 100. If its ok to be at 8000 for around 1.5hrs a day then i might leave it . Want it to last though so if its going to ruin itself after 2 years of motorway commuting and travelling then it could be something to look at

[xXGIBBOXx]

Look at it this way , it should be just over half it rev range. I changed both the front and rear on my 250 when i did the chain and saved a big 3 bucks a fill

[Glowerss]

Yeah might be alright. Im not really sure where 2fiddies should be sitting revs wise at 100. If its ok to be at 8000 for around 1.5hrs a day then i might leave it . Want it to last though so if its going to ruin itself after 2 years of motorway commuting and travelling then it could be something to look at

The ZZR 250 I had (basically the same bike) sat around 8-9 on the motorway with a 13,000 redline. Seemed alright.

The hornet sits at 8-9k at 100-110ish KPH. Granted, that has a 16k RPM redline.

Also, be warned, that on the Mway your bike is sitting right in the middle of its powerband (what little there is to speak of, anyway). If you gear it to run lower in the RPM range you'll find it really sluggish on the motorway. My ZZR250 was working a bit, but there was go-juice when you needed it. Hack off 1-2k RPM and you'd have to drop down a gear anytime you wanted any sort of forward momentum. Particularly going into a headwind, you'd really feel it.

Anyway, the kwackas probably OK for it to be honest. I saw a ninja awhile back that was 3 years old and had 80,000KM on it :lol: Clearly that guy made it work! It'll probably be fine.

Besides, I'd be pulling to put any amount money you'll be bored of the ninja's anemic ass performance long before your 2 years are up :baby:

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah could be bored of it by then but money money money for something bigger.

I wont change anything if it will be alright

[TheTengTheory]

Yeah could be bored of it by then but money money money for something bigger.

I wont change anything if it will be alright

You'll be fine. 250s are inherently made to be thrashed :D

Might as well drive a car if you don't.

[GrayWolf]

This is what you need to get into guys,
Learners riding with learners is a recipe for disaster. You are all so keen, yet so ignorant, it can all turn to custard at the first corner. I have seen it happen before, I would say others will have too. A group of learners on small bikes, with lots of enthusiasm and very little skill... Owch!
Go ride with experienced riders if you want to ride in a group, an LISTEN TO THEM, dont think they dont know cause they old or what ever.
Or because the bike that they ride is a quadrillion years old.....its still being ridden, and they still alive...why??


For sure, I respect the experienced ones the MOST. Would be great to get out with so cruisy people that probably know all the good roads. Just need to find willing people, must be quite frustrating riding with learners sometimes. But if anyone is interested to go for a cruise sometime in the next few weeks then i would be very thankful

Just went for my first ride to mission bay (taking the back roads, too scared to hit 100 just yet) was really good, a few idiots right up my ass dispite the fact i was travelling just over 60/speed limit. Gets quite hot and tiring after a while, dont know how guys go all day!!

Ill post the few pictures we took. My mate has a aftermarket exhaust on his... actually sucks following him. Dont know if i want to get one myself or just ride without him :P


I'd also add this Disclaimer...
Even though many of us have ridden for years, we do often have 'bad habbits'.. that maybe our road knowledge, 'skill' and experience has enabled us to 'survive/adapt' which if passed to a new rider, may be a recipe for disaster.
What I personally would recommend for you guys if you are going to hook up with 'experienced' riders

If all they do is talk about 'top speed', getting knees down on corners, climbing over the bike, sticking knee's out....... DONT
If they start riding and follow vehicles obviously 'too close' (tailgating) ride with the brakes constantly going on and off....... DONT
If they start overtaking and/or cut corners, do a 'rossi'.....DONT

What you guys need is steady flowing riding, I am not saying everyone who rides sprotbikes are Squids, or that everyone who rides a sport tourer,standard/dual purpose are not Squids, Age also can have little bearing... there are some 'fast/hoon' riders in their 40's and 50's.
What I would 'look for' is people who when you talk with them, are discussing things like 'roll on power for overtaking', travelling distances loaded up, using the engine's power/torque in twisty sections, rather than 'point n squirt' (brake hard, throw the bike into the corner, exit corner, scream the motor through the gears, brake hard) if they ride all year round, they have 'Winter/shit weather knowledge to pass on'... if you follow them, do they seem to 'flow' through bends with little to no braking, and dont seem to use much 'right wrist' but still 'progress' down the road? Without sticking knees out and climbing over the bike?

These are the guys/girls you want to ride/learn from......
Learn the 'BASICS' .. rossi didnt learn to ride 'sticking his knee out', he did the basics first like everyone else, then progressed to learning 'speed skills'.

[Cam_NZ]

Ok went for a ride today and noticed two problems with the bike.

First was that sometimes (all times have been when i have been stopped) I try to downshift back to first gear and cant find gears. Got stuck at an intersection today because i got stuck in 4th gear. I found that when i nudged the gear lever inward it worked again. Anything i can look at adjusting or changing to stop this from happening??

Second i noticed that there was a small scraping noise coming from the back ( I think) at certain parts of the wheels rotation. My guess (if its anything like a car) its break related and the disc is warped or uneven. Or could be something like a wheel out of alignment or something???

Someone more educated answer my questions!!

Cheers

[bosslady]

Ok went for a ride today and noticed two problems with the bike.

First was that sometimes (all times have been when i have been stopped) I try to downshift back to first gear and cant find gears. Got stuck at an intersection today because i got stuck in 4th gear. I found that when i nudged the gear lever inward it worked again. Anything i can look at adjusting or changing to stop this from happening??

Second i noticed that there was a small scraping noise coming from the back ( I think) at certain parts of the wheels rotation. My guess (if its anything like a car) its break related and the disc is warped or uneven. Or could be something like a wheel out of alignment or something???

Someone more educated answer my questions!!

Cheers

My bike has this problem when shifting down to 1st. I have to have the clutch at a CERTAIN SPOT before it will LET me... Further to that and speaking only for my bike, of course, when coasting up to an intersection/lights to come to a stop I do try to at least be in 2nd before I stop. Whether that's the done thing I've no idea. I believe you can change the height of the gear shifter, you can on my bike. I used to have trouble changing up, kept missing gears. Turns out my foot was just being lazy... not the prob you're having though of course. I'd suggest practicing gear changes whilst stationary? find right spot for the clutch?

[Subike]

Ok went for a ride today and noticed two problems with the bike.

First was that sometimes (all times have been when i have been stopped) I try to downshift back to first gear and cant find gears. Got stuck at an intersection today because i got stuck in 4th gear. I found that when i nudged the gear lever inward it worked again. Anything i can look at adjusting or changing to stop this from happening??


Cheers

Where you holding the clutch in the whole time you were trying to go down the gears while stationary? If you were, then each time you go down a gear, release the clutch a little to allow the gears to move. a fraction, allowing the gates to open.
But apart from this, you should be changing down all the gears coming to a stop at any time, using the engine braking to assist the bike stopping, get into this habit now. it is part of controlling your bike. Rolling to a stop in top gear clutch in, is a NO NO NO< you can loose control, stall, fall of, lots of nastiness.
Right gear right time acceleration or decelerating...learn that your gearbox and engine are as much part of the braking system of your bike as the brakes are.
Learn this now!

[xXGIBBOXx]

Amen to that , if you need to gun it to get out of the way of a dick who didnt see ya a hand full of clutch and a box full of neutral isnt fun . And down shifting is how i get a feel of my chain tension ( if it doesnt go in nice thats the first thing i check ) Or try rolling the bike forward a bit when it wont go in to gear it sometimes helps .

[Cam_NZ]

Amen to that , if you need to gun it to get out of the way of a dick who didnt see ya a hand full of clutch and a box full of neutral isnt fun . And down shifting is how i get a feel of my chain tension ( if it doesnt go in nice thats the first thing i check ) Or try rolling the bike forward a bit when it wont go in to gear it sometimes helps .

Hah! sounds like i need to get someone that knows abit to give my bike a once over. Gears are smooth through shifting up and down, but gets a bit rough sometimes going from neutral into first

Probably just me being paranoid. Might just get a decent service done to it just to give me some peace of mind

[TheTengTheory]

Ok went for a ride today and noticed two problems with the bike.

First was that sometimes (all times have been when i have been stopped) I try to downshift back to first gear and cant find gears. Got stuck at an intersection today because i got stuck in 4th gear. I found that when i nudged the gear lever inward it worked again. Anything i can look at adjusting or changing to stop this from happening??

Second i noticed that there was a small scraping noise coming from the back ( I think) at certain parts of the wheels rotation. My guess (if its anything like a car) its break related and the disc is warped or uneven. Or could be something like a wheel out of alignment or something???

Someone more educated answer my questions!!

Cheers

You'll find this site might explain better.

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Why_is_my_transmission_%27clunky%27%3F

End state. shift gears progressively (up and down). Adds a smoother ride and lets you learn to use your gearbox properly. Plus you'll find that you're always ready to take off at any time which would be considered safe riding. Nothing worst then seeing a car behind you not slowing down because he's tunnel visioned on the big truck infront of you. Motorbikes have a small profile and are therefore harder to spot.

My front brakes (not breaks :D) scrape slightly, doesn't affect the handling in anyway (that I can tell). Unless its affecting the bike handling. it shouldn't be an issue.

ride on! :headbang:

Edit: Apparently my computer failed to show me the previous posts. Ignore me as I have repeated what the above have said.

My hornet has trouble finding neutral sometimes. Its abit of an art I'm slowly discovering, apparently a very common issue. Nothing to worry about.

[bosslady]

My hornet has trouble finding neutral sometimes. Its abit of an art I'm slowly discovering, apparently a very common issue. Nothing to worry about.

I hear you on this one!!!!!

[arcane12]

You'll find this site might explain better.

My hornet has trouble finding neutral sometimes. Its abit of an art I'm slowly discovering, apparently a very common issue. Nothing to worry about.


I hear you on this one!!!!!

Why is it that if you want to find neutral in a hurry it keeps jumping from first to second, and if you want to find first it refuses to go in? (ok, I have mostly gotten over it now, but it used to be a PITA. On the Boulevard I find it helps to double clutch to go from neutral to first)

[The End]

Why is it that if you want to find neutral in a hurry it keeps jumping from first to second, and if you want to find first it refuses to go in? (ok, I have mostly gotten over it now, but it used to be a PITA. On the Boulevard I find it helps to double clutch to go from neutral to first)

I'd say most of the time it's trying to get to neutral in a hurry and clicking up too hard. It only needs a slight amount of upward pressure for it to slot into neutral (on my bike anyway) and anything more than that will push it into second.

[TheTengTheory]

I'd say most of the time it's trying to get to neutral in a hurry and clicking up too hard. It only needs a slight amount of upward pressure for it to slot into neutral (on my bike anyway) and anything more than that will push it into second.

A solid change into first from second usually gives me good results on the shift into neutral but if it skips into 2nd I can usually get into neutral from there as well.

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah will work on my changes then. I do usually use engine braking, just every now and again just dont do it for some reason.

[arcane12]

I'd say most of the time it's trying to get to neutral in a hurry and clicking up too hard. It only needs a slight amount of upward pressure for it to slot into neutral (on my bike anyway) and anything more than that will push it into second.

Yup, more evident when I was still getting used to thick motorcycle boots. These days I have it down pat, though I sometimes(very rarely) go the other way and am too gentle with my kick up into 2nd after taking off (often when doing that slow crawl up to second in heavy traffic, you get in the sway of the slow gentle taffic and whoops, neutral! heh).

[Glowerss]

Why is it that if you want to find neutral in a hurry it keeps jumping from first to second, and if you want to find first it refuses to go in? (ok, I have mostly gotten over it now, but it used to be a PITA. On the Boulevard I find it helps to double clutch to go from neutral to first)

It's easier to go from second into neutral then first into by and large. The shift up from first is quite........... heavy? On most of the bikes ive ridden anyway. I can get it into neutral from first most of the time, but it's FAR easier to go from second into neutral with a real gentle tap downward.

Conversely, ya'll could just buy a kawasaki :bleh: Kwackas have "positive neutral finder", which when the bikes moving less then say 10-15kph, it will ONLY go into neutral from first. Quite a nifty thing to have! It was one of the things I really liked about the ZZR250:banana:

[Maha]

Where you holding the clutch in the whole time you were trying to go down the gears while stationary? If you were, then each time you go down a gear, release the clutch a little to allow the gears to move. a fraction, allowing the gates to open.
But apart from this, you should be changing down all the gears coming to a stop at any time, using the engine braking to assist the bike stopping, get into this habit now. it is part of controlling your bike. Rolling to a stop in top gear clutch in, is a NO NO NO< you can loose control, stall, fall of, lots of nastiness.
Right gear right time acceleration or decelerating...learn that your gearbox and engine are as much part of the braking system of your bike as the brakes are.
Learn this now!

+1 to all of this....:niceone:
If you are stationary and trying to select a lower gear, release the clutch a tad, you will feel a click, thats a false neutral finding a gear. Should be sweet after that.

@ Cam...Wait till you find a false neutral just before you go around a down hill corner!.....Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh pucker pucker :gob:

[TheTengTheory]

It's easier to go from second into neutral then first into by and large. The shift up from first is quite........... heavy? On most of the bikes ive ridden anyway. I can get it into neutral from first most of the time, but it's FAR easier to go from second into neutral with a real gentle tap downward.

Conversely, ya'll could just buy a kawasaki :bleh: Kwackas have "positive neutral finder", which when the bikes moving less then say 10-15kph, it will ONLY go into neutral from first. Quite a nifty thing to have! It was one of the things I really liked about the ZZR250:banana:

I only use neutral when I'm getting of my bike or on the side of the road...all other situations I just hold the clutch in.....quite tiring at first but now my fingers are meaty little bastards.

When I'm shifting up it occasionally goes into a false neutral (I generally don't clutch on my upshifts), nothing more embarassing then hitting the rev limiter in town pulling outta an intersection :baby:...Good way to catch someones attention. or scare the shit outta the muppet cager infront of you :devil2:

[Glowerss]

I only use neutral when I'm getting of my bike or on the side of the road...all other situations I just hold the clutch in.....quite tiring at first but now my fingers are meaty little bastards.

When I'm shifting up it occasionally goes into a false neutral (I generally don't clutch on my upshifts), nothing more embarassing then hitting the rev limiter in town pulling outta an intersection :baby:...Good way to catch someones attention. or scare the shit outta the muppet cager infront of you :devil2:

Even when getting off the hornet I typically go 1st second neutral. It's just easier. If i get neutral going up wahey great! But doesn't normally happen :rolleyes:

By the way, you really should clutch your upshifts. There's no reason not too. It's generally not good for your clutch/gearbox ect (Honda put the clutch lever there for a reason!). It's just lazy, a bad practice to get into, and wholly unnecessary, clutchless upshifts. Unless you're at a track or trying to outrun the devil or something, you should really be using your clutch for every gear change. :nono:

[TheTengTheory]

Even when getting off the hornet I typically go 1st second neutral. It's just easier. If i get neutral going up wahey great! But doesn't normally happen :rolleyes:

By the way, you really should clutch your upshifts. There's no reason not too. It's generally not good for your clutch/gearbox ect (Honda put the clutch lever there for a reason!). It's just lazy, a bad practice to get into, and wholly unnecessary, clutchless upshifts. Unless you're at a track or trying to outrun the devil or something, you should really be using your clutch for every gear change. :nono:

I don't see how it's lazy? It was actually abit tricky to get it smooth but now I can climb through the gears smoothly without interuption. I still use the clutch depending on the situation, its not like I've forgotten about it. I just don't need to use it when climbing up the gears picking up speed. Feels brilliant when you click up and there's no chain lash just a change in the engine tone. I reckon it teaches you to match the engine speed with your throttle properly as oppose to clutch slipping the hamfisting into something smooth.

Take for example I rode last night on the back of my friends bandit 1250. When giving it abit more poke (OMG THERE IS SO MUCH MORE POKE THAN MY HORNET!!:not:) he clutched at highrevs to shift up and it was quite disconcerting having that much power come on and off. Made me rock back and forth really harshly.

So infact I'm gonna call you lazy for depending on the clutch to ride :bleh:

[Glowerss]

I don't see how it's lazy? It was actually abit tricky to get it smooth but now I can climb through the gears smoothly without interuption. I still use the clutch depending on the situation, its not like I've forgotten about it. I just don't need to use it when climbing up the gears picking up speed. Feels brilliant when you click up and there's no chain lash just a change in the engine tone. I reckon it teaches you to match the engine speed with your throttle properly as oppose to clutch slipping the hamfisting into something smooth.

Take for example I rode last night on the back of my friends bandit 1250. When giving it abit more poke (OMG THERE IS SO MUCH MORE POKE THAN MY HORNET!!:not:) he clutched at highrevs to shift up and it was quite disconcerting having that much power come on and off. Made me rock back and forth really harshly.

So infact I'm gonna call you lazy for depending on the clutch to ride :bleh:

Well, its your bike and you can do what you want! But the way I understand it, for most bikes, if you do clutchless upshifts perfectly, they're fairly harmless. But if you stuff it up, it can do some harm. Ill leave you with the explanation:

Think of a steel bar that fits into a hole into another piece of metal. Now put the bar under shear by pulling laterally to one side - this is engine torque. Now start pulling the bar out of the hole while continuing to keep it under shear. The pulling is your boot pressing on the shift lever commanding the dogs to disengage the gear from a shaft.

Note two things:

1) As the bar starts to come out of the hole, the shearing force (engine torque) becomes concentrated over a smaller and smaller area. The dogs are sized to be able to handle engine torque but when you continue to apply torque during the shift, you're overstressing them by continuing to apply torque while you are reducing the contact area.

2) As the bar just clears the hole, the sharp edge of the hole will tend to round off the sharp edge of the bar as the two shear past one another. This is equivalent to the shift dogs being rounded off. And when they get rounded off they develop a slope which tends to want to make then disengage out of of the hole. (You will often hear about a performance technique called "undercutting" for a race gearbox - what this does is actually machine the shift dogs sightly non-flat so this shearing wear problem is lessened.)

That's what's insidious about doing this sort of thing. It seems to work Okay and it seems to work for awhile, but then suddenly your bike starts popping out of 2nd gear as you pour on the power after the shift. That's the rounded shift dogs no longer able to keep the shaft and gear engaged.

Clutchless upshifts done well - generally innocous, but way take the risk of screwing it up? Clutchless downshifts - just don't go there.

Edit: woops well spotted maha. I just grabbed that from google. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/345133-clutchless-shifting-harmless-asking-trouble.html Is where explanation came from. Naughty I should quote me sources.

[Subike]

Yup glowers is on to it, It may seem that your not doing any damage, but you are, I use the clutchon up shift much in the fashion you do, without the clutch, can keep a constant torque pull on the drive train from the releasing of the clutch at take off, to engaging top gear.
You just have to learn the point on the clutch lever that allows just enough slip to complete the gear change, but also allowing just enough drag to keep the power being transferred to the drive line. Similar action to what the cut out button on race care uses for the ignition, so they can do max rev clutch less gear changes under full power.A millisecond of power drop,

[Maha]

Yup glowers is on to it, It may seem that your not doing any damage, but you are, I use the clutchon up shift much in the fashion you do, without the clutch, can keep a constant torque pull on the drive train from the releasing of the clutch at take off, to engaging top gear.
You just have to learn the point on the clutch lever that allows just enough slip to complete the gear change, but also allowing just enough drag to keep the power being transferred to the drive line. Similar action to what the cut out button on race care uses for the ignition, so they can do max rev clutch less gear changes under full power.A millisecond of power drop,

Well someone called Mark from another forum is...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/345133-clutchless-shifting-harmless-asking-trouble.html

''Think of a steel bar that fits into a hole into another piece of metal. Now put the bar under shear by pulling laterally to one side - this is engine torque. Now start pulling the bar out of the hole while continuing to keep it under shear. The pulling is your boot pressing on the shift lever commanding the dogs to disengage the gear from a shaft.

Note two things:

1) As the bar starts to come out of the hole, the shearing force (engine torque) becomes concentrated over a smaller and smaller area. The dogs are sized to be able to handle engine torque but when you continue to apply torque during the shift, you're overstressing them by continuing to apply torque while you are reducing the contact area.

2) As the bar just clears the hole, the sharp edge of the hole will tend to round off the sharp edge of the bar as the two shear past one another. This is equivalent to the shift dogs being rounded off. And when they get rounded off they develop a slope which tends to want to make then disengage out of of the hole. (You will often hear about a performance technique called "undercutting" for a race gearbox - what this does is actually machine the shift dogs sightly non-flat so this shearing wear problem is lessened.)

That's what's insidious about doing this sort of thing. It seems to work Okay and it seems to work for awhile, but then suddenly your bike starts popping out of 2nd gear as you pour on the power after the shift. That's the rounded shift dogs no longer able to keep the shaft and gear engaged.

Clutchless upshifts done well - generally innocous, but way take the risk of screwing it up? Clutchless downshifts - just don't go there.''

- Mark

There should be a poll-less thread started on this subject.
Enough conjecture to warrant it...I for one clutchless downshift..

[Subike]

Well then Mark is on the mark with this, Glowers just gave it some light.

[bosslady]

It's easier to go from second into neutral then first into by and large. The shift up from first is quite........... heavy? On most of the bikes ive ridden anyway. I can get it into neutral from first most of the time, but it's FAR easier to go from second into neutral with a real gentle tap downward.

I might start trying this from now on - thanks!

[bosslady]

Why (unless you're a racer??) would you lose a dramatic amount of speed by using your clutch when up shifting. Now, I'm not considering it and I know I only have a ginny but say I'm speeding up quickly when I'm on the on ramp to get up to speed with the mway traffic... I don't lose much speed so long as my hands and feet move quickly all at the right time? I notice when I don't pay enough attention though then yea, I do lose a little bit of speed.

[TheTengTheory]

Well someone called Mark from another forum is...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/345133-clutchless-shifting-harmless-asking-trouble.html
[I]
''Think of a steel bar that fits into a hole into ....

....Enough conjecture to warrant it...I for one clutchless downshift..

I get your point and yes it is a risk I don't mind doing. You gotta remember we're only riding little two fiddies. Not much torque and shear force going through the gearbox compared to say a 600 or thou.

I accidently downshifted once without clutching....locked my back wheel up....puckered up gooood.

Bosslady: Its not about the speed. Its about the smoothness of the ride. Especially under strong acceleration. Clutching induces huge momentum changes as the bike is going from maximum torque on the chain to zero and back on again in under a second. On a 250cc not that bad....just imagine a 600 or thou! Its like comparing a manual car to an auto car changing gears.

I'm all for using the clutch but in these instances I find it much smoother to just upshift and release the throttle back slightly.

And also another point...don't shift up when you're doing left hand corners...your toes don't like getting dragged along the ground :D

[Subike]

I get your point and yes it is a risk I don't mind doing. You gotta remember we're only riding little two fiddies. Not much torque and shear force going through the gearbox compared to say a 600 or thou.

I accidently downshifted once without clutching....locked my back wheel up....puckered up gooood.

Bosslady: Its not about the speed. Its about the smoothness of the ride. Especially under strong acceleration. Clutching induces huge momentum changes as the bike is going from maximum torque on the chain to zero and back on again in under a second. On a 250cc not that bad....just imagine a 600 or thou! Its like comparing a manual car to an auto car changing gears.

I'm all for using the clutch but in these instances I find it much smoother to just upshift and release the throttle back slightly.

And also another point...don't shift up when you're doing left hand corners...your toes don't like getting dragged along the ground :D

Grasshopper, ye will learn the fine arts of gear changing as gearboxes disintegrate under your bum.....makes no difference what the capacity the bike is son. they only build the parts strong enough to survive the horses that attack them. If you had a 650 gearbox in your 2fiddy, it would never have enough power to turn the weight of the gears alone.
Think why there are very few automatic motor bikes, and those that there are, dont live very long.

[TheTengTheory]

Grasshopper, ye will learn the fine arts of gear changing as gearboxes disintegrate under your bum.....makes no difference what the capacity the bike is son. they only build the parts strong enough to survive the horses that attack them. If you had a 650 gearbox in your 2fiddy, it would never have enough power to turn the weight of the gears alone.
Think why there are very few automatic motor bikes, and those that there are, dont live very long.


Should be fun then :D

[GrayWolf]

I only use neutral when I'm getting of my bike or on the side of the road...all other situations I just hold the clutch in.....quite tiring at first but now my fingers are meaty little bastards.

When I'm shifting up it occasionally goes into a false neutral (I generally don't clutch on my upshifts), nothing more embarassing then hitting the rev limiter in town pulling outta an intersection :baby:...Good way to catch someones attention. or scare the shit outta the muppet cager infront of you :devil2:



Holding the clutch in is all well and good, it seems to be a 'bad habit' here maybe because most cars are automatics? and you just leave them in drive at lights? If your driving a manual car, same as a bike and you 'ride the clutch' it's a test FAIL in the UK. All you need is your foot/fingers to slip (example numb fingers on a cold day) and vehicle jumps forward, could leave you lying on the floor, wrestling with it to stay upright, or FAR MORE IMPORTANTLY, you do get either pedestrians walking between vehicles, or be close to the one in front... and hit them as the vehicle/bike jerks forwards.....
at stop you should not be in gear, UNLESS you are imminently going to move off again..... (also as an extra, you should have you foot covering the rear brake when stopped, the dreaded 'foot dance' we all 'avoid doing'........ when about to move off again.

[GrayWolf]

I don't see how it's lazy? It was actually abit tricky to get it smooth but now I can climb through the gears smoothly without interuption. I still use the clutch depending on the situation, its not like I've forgotten about it. I just don't need to use it when climbing up the gears picking up speed. Feels brilliant when you click up and there's no chain lash just a change in the engine tone. I reckon it teaches you to match the engine speed with your throttle properly as oppose to clutch slipping the hamfisting into something smooth.

Take for example I rode last night on the back of my friends bandit 1250. When giving it abit more poke (OMG THERE IS SO MUCH MORE POKE THAN MY HORNET!!:not:) he clutched at highrevs to shift up and it was quite disconcerting having that much power come on and off. Made me rock back and forth really harshly.

So infact I'm gonna call you lazy for depending on the clutch to ride :bleh:

You think it was 'jerky' with a clutched shift??? :weird::weird::weird: clutchless can be FAR more jerky, and it also does depend on the bike,,, you would not want to be on the back of my bike 'going for it' doing clutchless shifts...... it's a long stroke big inch V twin.... and clutchless changes are an 'art' on big twins. The jerking back and front you were feeling is more due to the 'sudden decelleration between the application of power at each gearchange, then re-application as the throttle is opened up and you are not used to compensating for it as a pillion... clutcjless changes STILL require the power to be shut down, their only 'advantage' is the speed (lower time) between power being re-applied..... why when riding on the Queen's highway would you want to do clutchless changes??

It isnt something IMO that should be being discussed as a 'viable' method of gearchanging in a thread for 'complete newbies'..... Not a technique people like Bosslady should be contemplating at anything like this stage of their riding career...

[TheTengTheory]

Holding the clutch in is all well and good, it seems to be a 'bad habit' here maybe because most cars are automatics? and you just leave them in drive at lights? If your driving a manual car, same as a bike and you 'ride the clutch' it's a test FAIL in the UK. All you need is your foot/fingers to slip (example numb fingers on a cold day) and vehicle jumps forward, could leave you lying on the floor, wrestling with it to stay upright, or FAR MORE IMPORTANTLY, you do get either pedestrians walking between vehicles, or be close to the one in front... and hit them as the vehicle/bike jerks forwards.....
at stop you should not be in gear, UNLESS you are imminently going to move off again..... (also as an extra, you should have you foot covering the rear brake when stopped, the dreaded 'foot dance' we all 'avoid doing'........ when about to move off again.

If your fingers are that numb you shouldn't be riding in that weather full stop so thats an even bigger hazard. Yes its all situational but the majority of the time I don't have to wait for very long to bother with changing to neutral changing feet brake and changing to first and back. If its long yes because it does get tiring eventually. But it's palmerston north.

I'm not saying this is the ONLY way I ride. This is the way I find easiest to ride and I'm riding a cb250 not a big v twin. Again I will change if it suits but this is the smoothest way for me and using clutch between shifts at times is more a hassle than it's worth (in my eyes).

Clarification: How do you compensate for the loss of power regardless of pillion or not? I would assume if the clutch is applied, there is a loss in power regardless hence the back and forth jerkyness....Only way I can think of is using the friction point of the clutch to shift but thats effectively clutchless shifting since a botched shift will result in the same result as a bad clutchless shift

If its not a beginners option than do you think learning it on a big twin for the first time will be easier or harder? Also it doesn't require the power to be completely shut down, just enough to release the gear. I don't completely close the throttle when I change, i just release it slightly to unload the gearbox and that is sufficient enough to pop the gear up. There is the sound of the gear changing and engine note change and thats it. (mechanically I'm not completely sure how it works). It gives me the smoothest ride for me. Why in queens land would you buy a big twin when a 250cc can sustain 100kph.

Anyways I'll end my point there. Though I completely agree with the foot dance and rear brake. So confusing when you're not use to riding a bike!!!

Edit: The learning on a big twin only applies if you meant being a learner than changing to a bigger bike when you're qualified with abit of experience. I just had a look on the net. The clutchless shift debate is long and very very complicated with confusing mechanical explanations.

[bosslady]

You think it was 'jerky' with a clutched shift??? :weird::weird::weird: clutchless can be FAR more jerky, and it also does depend on the bike,,, you would not want to be on the back of my bike 'going for it' doing clutchless shifts...... it's a long stroke big inch V twin.... and clutchless changes are an 'art' on big twins. The jerking back and front you were feeling is more due to the 'sudden decelleration between the application of power at each gearchange, then re-application as the throttle is opened up and you are not used to compensating for it as a pillion... clutcjless changes STILL require the power to be shut down, their only 'advantage' is the speed (lower time) between power being re-applied..... why when riding on the Queen's highway would you want to do clutchless changes??

It isnt something IMO that should be being discussed as a 'viable' method of gearchanging in a thread for 'complete newbies'..... Not a technique people like Bosslady should be contemplating at anything like this stage of their riding career...

Hey... don't bring me into this, lol. I never said I wanted to, in fact I thought I said I didn't, cause I don't. I don't have any problem with deceleration such as what was mentioned, unless of course my feet and or hands are being lazy and or are out of sync.

[Cam_NZ]

what the hell just happened???:lol:

[GrayWolf]

Hey... don't bring me into this, lol. I never said I wanted to, in fact I thought I said I didn't, cause I don't. I don't have any problem with deceleration such as what was mentioned, unless of course my feet and or hands are being lazy and or are out of sync.

Settle Petal :msn-wink:
I used your name in vain as an example,, this is a newbie thread, and as you are one of said newbie"s ? my point was/is clutchless changes are not something a complete beginner should be considering...

as you were :bleh::bleh:

[GrayWolf]

If your fingers are that numb you shouldn't be riding in that weather full stop so thats an even bigger hazard. Yes its all situational but the majority of the time I don't have to wait for very long to bother with changing to neutral changing feet brake and changing to first and back. If its long yes because it does get tiring eventually. But it's palmerston north.
Everyone at some point or other will get cold finger's it's one of the facts of riding all year round. Even the best gloves when wet, will result in heat loss over an extended period of time

I'm not saying this is the ONLY way I ride. This is the way I find easiest to ride and I'm riding a cb250 not a big v twin. Again I will change if it suits but this is the smoothest way for me and using clutch between shifts at times is more a hassle than it's worth (in my eyes).

Clarification: How do you compensate for the loss of power regardless of pillion or not? I would assume if the clutch is applied, there is a loss in power regardless hence the back and forth jerkyness....Only way I can think of is using the friction point of the clutch to shift but thats effectively clutchless shifting since a botched shift will result in the same result as a bad clutchless shift
if you watch experienced pillion rider's? You'll see they all develop an almost 'snakelike' movement between hips and shoulders so their spine 'rolls' into the power or arches back slightly under braking,, you cant completely compensate for it, but any rider will know when they have an experienced pillion on board, or not.. Unless you have a 'wing etc with a backrest!

If its not a beginners option than do you think learning it on a big twin for the first time will be easier or harder? Also it doesn't require the power to be completely shut down, just enough to release the gear. I don't completely close the throttle when I change, i just release it slightly to unload the gearbox and that is sufficient enough to pop the gear up. There is the sound of the gear changing and engine note change and thats it. (mechanically I'm not completely sure how it works). It gives me the smoothest ride for me. Why in queens land would you buy a big twin when a 250cc can sustain 100kph.
if you READ what I said correctly, it isnt a technique for 'NEWBIE's' to consider IMO. There's nothing wrong with learning to perform it on a 125cc, just learn to ride in a 'standard' fashion (the basics) first before you begin to learn other methods.. an example? You dont teach acomplete novice car driver to 'heel/toe' the pedals when gear changing.. tha'ts a 'racing technique' and requires a much higher level of co-ordination.

Anyways I'll end my point there. Though I completely agree with the foot dance and rear brake. So confusing when you're not use to riding a bike!!!

Edit: The learning on a big twin only applies if you meant being a learner than changing to a bigger bike when you're qualified with abit of experience. I just had a look on the net. The clutchless shift debate is long and very very complicated with confusing mechanical explanations.

And to answer you're question?? Why do I ride a 1700cc V twin when a 250 can hold 100kph???

1) massive amount of torque... no ruddy gear changing required on hills :lol:
2) available 'roll on power' for overtaking
3) handles 'loads' better than a 250.. (2 up riding)

And Finally..... 2500rpm at 110kph :bleh::bleh::bleh:

[bosslady]

Settle Petal :msn-wink:
I used your name in vain as an example,, this is a newbie thread, and as you are one of said newbie"s ? my point was/is clutchless changes are not something a complete beginner should be considering...

as you were :bleh::bleh:
You obviously havent read the KB Bible. Thou shalt not use bossladys name in vain ;-)

[Subike]

A
And Finally..... 2500rpm at 110kph :bleh::bleh::bleh:


Thats like traveling 1 meter for every stroke of a piston on a big v twin
as opposed to 250mm for every stroke of a piston on a 250 multi...

[TheTengTheory]

Thats like traveling 1 meter for every stroke of a piston on a big v twin
as opposed to 250mm for every stroke of a piston on a 250 multi...

yea...8500 at 110 for me :( But it's okay....250s are way better ( because I said so :Pokey:)

[Cam_NZ]

So my bike is in jeopardy of being sold already!.

Am in need of a ute for my second job, and it just isnt saving enough on gas/traffic isnt bad enough to uni to justify keeping the car and the bike. Plus im turning up drenched like a pig

Plus a mate of mine just came off his bike and broke his shoulder and hip :\

[bosslady]

So my bike is in jeopardy of being sold already!.

Am in need of a ute for my second job, and it just isnt saving enough on gas/traffic isnt bad enough to uni to justify keeping the car and the bike. Plus im turning up drenched like a pig

Plus a mate of mine just came off his bike and broke his shoulder and hip :\

If you don't want to ride and it isn't for you, then it is what it is. For me, it's much more than a commuter, in fact it isn't a commuter at all for me so I don't care that I save petrol (even though I do) because that isn't why I got my bike. I got my bike to meet people, learn something new (and for me to have a "challenge") and just to basically have a hobby. I didn't want it as a cheap way to get around and if that's all it is to you - then don't feel bad. Also don't feel bad if it isn't financially viable for you to keep a bike at the moment, food on the table is more important than a toy? I wouldn't worry about mates that get hurt though - I saw a guy get injuries that led to his death right in front of my very eyes the other day. Different set of circumstances but not something that I will let put me off.

[TheTengTheory]

If you don't want to ride and it isn't for you, then it is what it is. For me, it's much more than a commuter, in fact it isn't a commuter at all for me so I don't.......led to his death right in front of my very eyes the other day. Different set of circumstances but not something that I will let put me off.

+2 ^

Same with me for starting motorcycling. I did it as a hobby, the commuting part is just a bonus of the hobby not the reason why I got it. Right now I don't have a car in auckland. I decided not to because I couldn't afford the upkeep of both the car and the bike. I live close enough to AUT that I don't need to ride every day and only use it for weekend rides or forays around auckland for work etc. Had it purely been a commuting perspective I wouldn't have got my 6L.

Yes I do get wet when it rains but the most important thing I have is lectures and am not personally too worried if I turn up wet. It does help that I do have a topbox to store my gear in. That played a huge part in deciding to use my bike as a commuter.

You're tunnel visioning on the fact it was a motorbike accident. A friend of mine I spent a year training in the army with just died from a car accident two days ago. It's not to say you shouldn't consider the injuries and risk involved however, you should look at it with a reasonable logical perspective not one born of paranoia and fear.

[Cam_NZ]

actually the main influence is getting something to transport equipment around (prime example, a ute) and also lugging more than 2 people around. At the moment drive a tiny crx that barely has 4 seats and absolutely no boot space. And its going to be hard to do that owning a bike :P

dont worry, its not sold yet, really the only decision maker is money money money. Otherwise I would be putting kms into this badboy like nobodies buisness

[TheTengTheory]

actually the main influence is getting something to transport equipment around (prime example, a ute) and also lugging more than 2 people around. At the moment drive a tiny crx that barely has 4 seats and absolutely no boot space. And its going to be hard to do that owning a bike :P

dont worry, its not sold yet, really the only decision maker is money money money. Otherwise I would be putting kms into this badboy like nobodies buisness

swap the crx for a ute? or maybe a station wagon??

[Cam_NZ]

swap the crx for a ute? or maybe a station wagon??

For my crx I would get the ugliest, most beat up piece of ute out there haha!

[Monkfish]

actually the main influence is getting something to transport equipment around (prime example, a ute) and also lugging more than 2 people around. At the moment drive a tiny crx that barely has 4 seats and absolutely no boot space. And its going to be hard to do that owning a bike :P

dont worry, its not sold yet, really the only decision maker is money money money. Otherwise I would be putting kms into this badboy like nobodies buisness

Bro you are 19 and along way off from having to sell your bike.

I know plenty of people filled with regret from, selling their bike for all the sensible reasons in life.

The key thing here is they are full of regret almost all say they miss the bike and should never have sold it. knowing they should have found a way to make it work.

IMHO you should find a way to make it work, as selling so soon might lead to regrets later on.

[Cam_NZ]

Bro you are 19 and along way off from having to sell your bike.

I know plenty of people filled with regret from, selling their bike for all the sensible reasons in life.

The key thing here is they are full of regret almost all say they miss the bike and should never have sold it. knowing they should have found a way to make it work.

IMHO you should find a way to make it work, as selling so soon might lead to regrets later on.

Yep well took me 50mins to get to the auckland motorway on ramp (usually takes 10) and car overheated in traffic.... So car is out of commission for a while and biking there is looking alot better..


Just a question for anyone that knows about AUT northshore... What do you guys do about your gear??? Im biking there tommorrow, and have nothing in the way of a top box or similar.. Any lockers close by to parking or something?? really dont know where to ditch stuff

[The End]

Yep well took me 50mins to get to the auckland motorway on ramp (usually takes 10) and car overheated in traffic.... So car is out of commission for a while and biking there is looking alot better..


Just a question for anyone that knows about AUT northshore... What do you guys do about your gear??? Im biking there tommorrow, and have nothing in the way of a top box or similar.. Any lockers close by to parking or something?? really dont know where to ditch stuff

On a good day you could always lock/chain it to your bike, but it's hardly somewhere you want to leave it when it is raining outside. Having to wear wet riding gear on the ride home really sucks...Could you take it with you to your classes and just leave it at the back of the class out of the way?

[TheTengTheory]

On a good day you could always lock/chain it to your bike, but it's hardly somewhere you want to leave it when it is raining outside. Having to wear wet riding gear on the ride home really sucks...Could you take it with you to your classes and just leave it at the back of the class out of the way?

I've seen lockers on the upper floors of the AF building. What time you coming in? I've got a stupid KEC lecture at 11am.

[Cam_NZ]

I've seen lockers on the upper floors of the AF building. What time you coming in? I've got a stupid KEC lecture at 11am.

Lol stuff kec all together. I got there at 9 this morning and enquired about lockers.... They are under renivation until easter so no option (those are the af ones)

Could lock in onto my bike, hasnt really rained lately so is an option.. Other option is getting a bag or topbox for it.. But they really do look so shit :P...

Theres plenty of bikes so someone must have the solution for me... I could carry everything around but i ride in full gear and that would be alot of shit.

Oh and where do people get changed and whatnot. Just used the library bathroom today and got alot of looks haha

[TheTengTheory]

Lol stuff kec all together. I got there at 9 this morning and enquired about lockers.... They are under renivation until easter so no option (those are the af ones)

Could lock in onto my bike, hasnt really rained lately so is an option.. Other option is getting a bag or topbox for it.. But they really do look so shit :P...

Theres plenty of bikes so someone must have the solution for me... I could carry everything around but i ride in full gear and that would be alot of shit.

Oh and where do people get changed and whatnot. Just used the library bathroom today and got alot of looks haha

I saw one guy wear his leather jacket and carried his helmet....Suppose riding in jeans wouldn't float your boat would it?

Buy a top box....well worth the investment...My topbox was my dads which he bought and never used from like 1995....yes its not as cool but you can use the time you're not lugging around your stuff looking like a twat to make up for the loss of bling factor.

[Cam_NZ]

I saw one guy wear his leather jacket and carried his helmet....Suppose riding in jeans wouldn't float your boat would it?

Buy a top box....well worth the investment...My topbox was my dads which he bought and never used from like 1995....yes its not as cool but you can use the time you're not lugging around your stuff looking like a twat to make up for the loss of bling factor.

Haha nah no jeans for me... for some reason have a fear of getting one of those breaks in the ankle, where the foot is facing the other way :P. So full gear for me... Might have to tie it to the bike for now and see what happens. Can always chain pants and jacket and just carry the other three. We shall see. How much can you usually fit in one of those tank bags?? Or may invest in a pannier bag.. Will check in shop tommorrow

[TheTengTheory]

Haha nah no jeans for me... for some reason have a fear of getting one of those breaks in the ankle, where the foot is facing the other way :P. So full gear for me... Might have to tie it to the bike for now and see what happens. Can always chain pants and jacket and just carry the other three. We shall see. How much can you usually fit in one of those tank bags?? Or may invest in a pannier bag.. Will check in shop tommorrow

my jacket and helmet + gloves inside....and various nicknacks underneath....

fair enough each to their own....you could always make friends with one of the faculty staff and ask them if you can leave your stuff in the corner. Maybe get chummy with one of the lecturers :Pokey:

[Cam_NZ]

my jacket and helmet + gloves inside....and various nicknacks underneath....

fair enough each to their own....you could always make friends with one of the faculty staff and ask them if you can leave your stuff in the corner. Maybe get chummy with one of the lecturers :Pokey:

Yeah was looking at one of those small magnetic tank bags so that i could chuck some stuff in it and make room for my boots or something in my backpack... Other than that at the moment the solution looks like just strapping it and leaving it on my bike for the day. I am yet to find a good looking lecturer :P

[Glowerss]

Yeah was looking at one of those small magnetic tank bags so that i could chuck some stuff in it and make room for my boots or something in my backpack... Other than that at the moment the solution looks like just strapping it and leaving it on my bike for the day. I am yet to find a good looking lecturer :P

Just get a pair of kevlar jeans. They're comfy enough to wear all day in truth. Then just bring a backpack. When I'm working at the northshore campus (work in the student IT department) Boots gloves sunnies fit into the backpack (change into shoes once there). backpack + jacket goes onto back of chair, helmet under chair.

Sides, most classrooms in the Akoranga campus (all of em really) have places you can stash your gear in the corner or on a table somewhere. Shouldn't be any dramas carrying yer gear with you. I've never found it troublesome anyway.

Wellesly campus it's jsut a matter of chaining up your gear to yoru bike. Dunno that I'd reccomend it at akoranga though. Likely to get wet :crazy:

[Cam_NZ]

Just get a pair of kevlar jeans. They're comfy enough to wear all day in truth. Then just bring a backpack. When I'm working at the northshore campus (work in the student IT department) Boots gloves sunnies fit into the backpack (change into shoes once there). backpack + jacket goes onto back of chair, helmet under chair.

Sides, most classrooms in the Akoranga campus (all of em really) have places you can stash your gear in the corner or on a table somewhere. Shouldn't be any dramas carrying yer gear with you. I've never found it troublesome anyway.

Wellesly campus it's jsut a matter of chaining up your gear to yoru bike. Dunno that I'd reccomend it at akoranga though. Likely to get wet :crazy:

Ok just came back and got a small little magnetic tank bag and one of those roll out bags. The roll out one ill just use for gear and it can velcro through my backpack straps and sit kinda like one of those roll out foam matress for camping.

Next question is... what do you guys do about transporting laptops and other electronics... I was hoping for a waterproof backpack but apparently none are absolutely waterproof... And i cant exactly take the risk of damaging my laptop. What kind of backpack do you guys use to commute with and how do you protect the valuables???

Cheers

[The End]

Ok just came back and got a small little magnetic tank bag and one of those roll out bags. The roll out one ill just use for gear and it can velcro through my backpack straps and sit kinda like one of those roll out foam matress for camping.

Next question is... what do you guys do about transporting laptops and other electronics... I was hoping for a waterproof backpack but apparently none are absolutely waterproof... And i cant exactly take the risk of damaging my laptop. What kind of backpack do you guys use to commute with and how do you protect the valuables???

Cheers

I've had a Macpac bag for 7 years now. I trust it with my Laptop inside, and I've yet to have it wet in there after a ride in the rain.

[GrayWolf]

Haha nah no jeans for me... for some reason have a fear of getting one of those breaks in the ankle, where the foot is facing the other way :P. So full gear for me... Might have to tie it to the bike for now and see what happens. Can always chain pants and jacket and just carry the other three. We shall see. How much can you usually fit in one of those tank bags?? Or may invest in a pannier bag.. Will check in shop tommorrow

Sorry Cam, that doesnt make sense mate,,,
just how do you think, cordura, or leather pants will prevent a broken ankle more than 'kevlar' lined jeans?
it's the boots/footwear that will help prevent a breakage.. and you can wear just about any type of boots with 'kevlar' riding jeans....

[TheTengTheory]

Sorry Cam, that doesnt make sense mate,,,
just how do you think, cordura, or leather pants will prevent a broken ankle more than 'kevlar' lined jeans?
it's the boots/footwear that will help prevent a breakage.. and you can wear just about any type of boots with 'kevlar' riding jeans....

Think he meant riding full gear including boots as oppose to just jacket helmet and gloves like I sometimes do.

Cam: Unless you're riding for at least 20-30minutes in fairly heavy rain you should be fine. The bag should soak up most of the liquid and excess runs off the outside as opposed to just falling....most water resistant bags will get wet after a while but won't soak and run through unless dunked in water. Obviously with enough time it will soak through and wet the insides but if you're worried just put it in a plastic bag and keep the entry facing downwards so it doesn't leak in. So unless you're planning on going for a swim with said gear you should be fine.

Rubbish bags make brilliant liners for bags. Just twist the top a few times after putting everything in and tuck it down the side.

[bosslady]

Think he meant riding full gear including boots as oppose to just jacket helmet and gloves like I sometimes do.

Cam: Unless you're riding for at least 20-30minutes in fairly heavy rain you should be fine. The bag should soak up most of the liquid and excess runs off the outside as opposed to just falling....most water resistant bags will get wet after a while but won't soak and run through unless dunked in water. Obviously with enough time it will soak through and wet the insides but if you're worried just put it in a plastic bag and keep the entry facing downwards so it doesn't leak in. So unless you're planning on going for a swim with said gear you should be fine.

Rubbish bags make brilliant liners for bags. Just twist the top a few times after putting everything in and tuck it down the side.

you don't even wear undies?

[Tigadee]

Ok just came back and got a small little magnetic tank bag and one of those roll out bags. The roll out one ill just use for gear and it can velcro through my backpack straps and sit kinda like one of those roll out foam matress for camping. What kind of backpack do you guys use to commute with and how do you protect the valuables???

Ventura pack rack and a large top box is better than panniers and a tank bag. :niceone: Major convenience, like have a locker on the back of your bike...

Any backpack will do. If you have valuables inside like a laptop, make sure you have it inside a plastic bag unless you have a MacPac like The End. Even then, doesn't hurt to have one of those folded black rubbish bags neatly tucked into one of the bag's pockets, just in case... or blow it up and put it into your backpack as a rear air bag! :laugh:

[Mushu]

I recently bought a nichi tail bag which has gotten wet without leaking but has yet to see heavy rain (tail bag itself was a great buy, it's so much better riding without a bag on your back)
I have a Nike Air backpack about 5 years old has a thick padded area at the back for a laptop. The whole bag is water resistant and there's an extra layer around the laptop pouch.


Well, its your bike and you can do what you want! But the way I understand it, for most bikes, if you do clutchless upshifts perfectly, they're fairly harmless. But if you stuff it up, it can do some harm. Ill leave you with the explanation:

Think of a steel bar that fits into a hole into another piece of metal. Now put the bar under shear by pulling laterally to one side - this is engine torque. Now start pulling the bar out of the hole while continuing to keep it under shear. The pulling is your boot pressing on the shift lever commanding the dogs to disengage the gear from a shaft.........

That steel bar analogy doesn't really hold true, it's more of an explanation of what happens if you force it into the next gear at full throttle which would be stupid, the most important part of a clutchless gear shift (bike, car or truck) is controlling the throttle and coordinating throttle and gears

Clutchless gear changes should not be attempted unless you know how the parts work together, in saying that up changes if done correctly are pretty much impossible to get wrong.

Try it, while accelerating hard, slip your foot under the gear lever and apply firm pressure without trying to force it then just back off the throttle about a 1/4 turn and the lever will happily click to the next cog then all you have to do is get the timing right for the throttle and get ready to do it again.

You have to be accelerating hard to guarantee this will work, and using this technique you will never get that accidental neutral.

Down changing is far more complicated and more likely to damage your gearbox although it can be done with a little practice, with the slipper clutches they use these days you're better off just using the clutch.

Clutchless shifts correctly done are very smooth and very common in racing I'm pretty sure I read the technique in twist of the wrist 2 (I have to get my copy from my brother in law so I can double check I'm not getting references mixed up)

The same is true in a car, in fact if you can get the timing correct, your synchros (kind of a clutch for matching gear speeds) don't suffer any wear at all. And road ranger boxes (trucks) the clutch is completely redundant while changing gears. Bikes use dogs rather than the sleeve arrangement found in other gearboxes but the principal remains the same



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[Cam_NZ]

Yeah sorry just ment the boots. I could get the jeans but it gets bloody hot in the middle of the day at the moment anyway and id probably end up putting shorts on.

Anyway I may look at just getting the rack for my bike, and trying to find a bag for it later on. At the moment i think i've sorted my problem. May see what i can do about a top box, but they are pretty big, and its just something I have to worry about when lanesplitting

Yeah definately going to need another bapack anyway, mine only just squeezes in a laptop. So will just have a look around, maybe better at outdoor shops (macpac, kathmandu)

Cheers

[Mushu]

Boots are a good idea, I can tell you from experience skate shoes really don't cut it if you go down, plenty of people are happy riding in work boots though.

Riding in shorts is not something that would be recommended by any body on here (nobody with any brains anyway) even kevlar jeans aren't really that good compared to goretex or leather but they better than nothing and not really that heavy (I have a few pairs and I tend to wear them almost all the time) just remember that kevlar is useless when wet so get decent wet weather gear as well.

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[Cam_NZ]

Boots are a good idea, I can tell you from experience skate shoes really don't cut it if you go down, plenty of people are happy riding in work boots though.

Riding in shorts is not something that would be recommended by any body on here (nobody with any brains anyway) even kevlar jeans aren't really that good compared to goretex or leather but they better than nothing and not really that heavy (I have a few pairs and I tend to wear them almost all the time) just remember that kevlar is useless when wet so get decent wet weather gear as well.

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I have boots and wet weather gear already??? And i wasnt saying I was going to ride in shorts, I was saying the kevlar jeans would be useless because i would probably change into shorts at uni

[Mushu]

I have boots and wet weather gear already??? And i wasnt saying I was going to ride in shorts, I was saying the kevlar jeans would be useless because i would probably change into shorts at uni

Fair enough, I just wear the kevlar jeans and I have a leather jacket that doesn't look too out of place when you're off the bike (I feel like a dick walking around carrying my other jacket) and I have a pair of fingerless gloves that fit it my back pocket. That way I can get off my bike put my helmet in the little clip thing on the bike and just walk away without having to lug around a ton of gear or, even worse, walk around all day wearing it

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[Cam_NZ]

Ok so I want to know what people actually think about my jacket and pants...

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...d_2_texti.aspx

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...textile_j.aspx

Went for a ride with a mate last night, and the padding in his pants and jacket is so much harder! Kinda feel like if I come off, the padding will do jack shit.

Anyway, could just be me overreacting, I have a couple hundie to burn if you too think its shit.

[p.dath]

Ok so I want to know what people actually think about my jacket and pants...

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...d_2_texti.aspx

http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/product...textile_j.aspx

Went for a ride with a mate last night, and the padding in his pants and jacket is so much harder! Kinda feel like if I come off, the padding will do jack shit.

Anyway, could just be me overreacting, I have a couple hundie to burn if you too think its shit.

Both of those pages no longer exist ...

I'm sure they will be fine. It may be impact protecting armour rather than "padding".

[Cam_NZ]

Yeah not sure, but I had a few hundred left to spend when I bought them, and kept asking her "what can I upgrade or spend more money on" So kinda annoyed I didnt get something with solid padding

[Mushu]

Yeah not sure, but I had a few hundred left to spend when I bought them, and kept asking her "what can I upgrade or spend more money on" So kinda annoyed I didnt get something with solid padding

Like p.dath said one's probably padded and one with armour but it can be bought separately. Look up to see if you can fit it to your jacket, you can have the ones I pulled out of my leather jacket if you like. Also I'd be surprised if Oxford or Knox or someone don't have something you could wear under your jacket

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[Cam_NZ]

Yeah its not hard to take them out. they're just held in with mesh pretty much. Might look at something a bit tougher to chuck in, especially the knees and shoulders. Definately need to invest in a back protector also

[Mushu]

Yeah its not hard to take them out. they're just held in with mesh pretty much. Might look at something a bit tougher to chuck in, especially the knees and shoulders. Definately need to invest in a back protector also

Back protector is next on my list too, I don't know how much protection 10mm of foam rubber offers, but I doubt it's much.

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[Cam_NZ]

Probably not... Have been looking at the full upperbody suit things. Chest, back, elbows and shoulder protection

[Cam_NZ]

So just finished a days worth of riding to and from whangarei today on the beast from the east. I have to say, I now know why there are so many people enjoying motorbikes! I had sooo much fun! That, along with travelling to uni a few times a week now... I cant imagine not having a bike. Lane splitting cuts down commuting by atleast 30mins in morning peak hour.

Anyway all went well, $20 worth of fuel and many cars past!! :P.
So this is how the trip went
Pros:
-I went fast and did well in corners
-Completed my longest ride so far
- Actually enjoyed a long-ish trip

Cons:
- Wind! That shit got old real fast! I swear it is just trying to fuck with you, blowing you left right and centre. And when you start to daydream a little, the wind decides to turn your bike for you, but towards the opposite lane
- Havent ridden on wet roads before, so when it started raining I sort of panicked a little and started riding less confidently
- ninja Vibrations! Damn that thing vibrates like a mofo after 8000 rpm


So questions I have that may be answerable
1. Are you able to get something, like thicker grips on the handlebars to reduce vibration and wrist fatigue??
2. Where in your lane should you be riding when the road is wet and slippery
3. How much more carefully do you need to take things when it is wet?
4. Why are cruiser riders pricks?

[The End]

So questions I have that may be answerable
1. Are you able to get something, like thicker grips on the handlebars to reduce vibration and wrist fatigue??
2. Where in your lane should you be riding when the road is wet and slippery
3. How much more carefully do you need to take things when it is wet?
4. Why are cruiser riders pricks?

1) <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/QsEdD05zFxk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

2) I ride where the tire tracks of cars are, and it depends on upcoming corners whether or not this is the left or ride side of the lane. In the middle there is often oil, debris and other things that could cause loss of traction.

3) Throttle control is key, smooth application of throttle through and out of bends makes riding in the rain a lot safer.

4) Wouldn't be Kiwibiker without a question like this!

[Mushu]

The answer to most of your problems is to just relax, hold on with your legs.
By tensing up and holding the bars too tight you feel much more of the vibration and your upper body becomes like a sail pushing you around in the wind.
I gave this advice to my cousin (incidently he was riding a ninja also) and watched his riding instantly improve.
You should hold the bars about as tightly as you would hold 2 bananas look up onearmedbandit if you saw him riding you'd never know he does it all one handed.

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[FJRider]

So questions I have that may be answerable
1. Are you able to get something, like thicker grips on the handlebars to reduce vibration and wrist fatigue??
2. Where in your lane should you be riding when the road is wet and slippery
3. How much more carefully do you need to take things when it is wet?
4. Why are cruiser riders pricks?

1. Bar end weights can help.
2. If there is plenty of traffic ... in either side wheel tracks as it tends to be drier as the wheels have pushed most of the water out from there ... (I prefer the right wheel track)
If there is little traffic ... between the wheel tracks as it's usually slightly higher than the wheel tracks (which are lower slightly and hold water) and the water usually runs off a bit from there. And the chip seal is less worn there and tends to give better grip there.
3. Much more. Lots of places get slippery when wet. Often small areas ... but if its on your line that you take ... a slight loss of grip is unnerving as the back (or front) end moves sideways a bit.
4. What makes NOOB sports riders so special they need to ask that ???

[Cam_NZ]

Anyone added a ventura pack rack to their bike?? I just got one and the bolts dont even fit through..

[TheTengTheory]

Anyone added a ventura pack rack to their bike?? I just got one and the bolts dont even fit through..

Go to a steel machinist that makes nuts and bolts and ask them to find bolts for it. I did that for my fairing bolts when I wanted stainless steel ones. Or ask a local mechanic where you can find a shop that machines bolts.

[Cam_NZ]

it SHOULD fit anyway.... The crossmember doesnt even look like it goes in smoothly..

[The End]

Anyone added a ventura pack rack to their bike?? I just got one and the bolts dont even fit through..


Most auto shops (Repco, Supercheap etc.) have a stand inside where you can take a nut or bolt and compare it against a 'chart' to see what size you need. I'd say give this a go before trying to find a machine shop.

Oh and make sure you have it lined up properly, I couldn't fit mine and it took me bloody ages to figure out the rack mount had to sit under a part in the taillight housing.

[Cam_NZ]

will do that now.. The bolt is definately the wrong size, visibly bigger

[Cam_NZ]

So what first thought were dry rear brakes seems to be something else... Im getting a noisy (i think it may or may not be the chain) coming on when accelerating or keeping a steady speed up around a good rev range (6-10k) Its like the zing-type noise a dry chain would make, but its on and off as if its only part of the chain thats doing it. Its very easy to hear when I pass cars and the noise is reflected back. Also the whole bike doesnt sound very smooth when keeping a steady spead. The same kinda thing, on and off noises. It doesnt really sound like the motor itself, that sounds fine. It sounds more like the gearbox or something related to that area...

Anyone have any ideas?

[Cam_NZ]

P.S 2 weeks ago i degreased the chain and put more lubricant on it... but it was making this noise before then. I have since washed the bike and re-lubed the chain