I just bought a KDX200

[nzspokes]

Found an old KDX200 on TM going for to cheap. Looks to need a rebuild which is fine.

Where would be the best place to look for plastics? The seller says the motor was running fine but I may crack it open to check and as rebuild kits seem very cheap may go that way. It needs tyres but as my XR has good tyres and the same size I will swap them over.

Ive never ridden one but a mate told me they are a great beginner trail bike so for the price I couldn't let it go. Just hope the seller comes through.

[ktm84mxc]

Replacement plastics depends on the years the early models 83-86 A+B series can be hard to source esp the headlight nacelle
87-89 C model not really an issue , 90-95 same again not a prob, 96-2010 all available.
great bikes the KDX thousands sold here so second hand parts a plenty , many have been fitted in KX frames, a good pipe brings them to life.
Stay clear of the Japanese spec models with oil injection to slow and heavy .

[nzspokes]

Its a 95. Looks to be a stock pipe, what type should I look out for?

[Crasherfromwayback]

Replacement plastics depends on the years the early models 83-86 A+B series can be hard to source esp the headlight nacelle
.

I've got a NOS one if you want it!

[nzspokes]

I've got a NOS one if you want it!

Oh, sweet. Its a 95 so will it fit? Im happy to replace the plastics to make it look right again.

That way as im not fast at least the bike looks good.

[nzspokes]

Heres a pic of it from TM. Shes a little rough but running. I have tyres for it. Should make a nice little rebuild.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Oh, sweet. Its a 95 so will it fit? Im happy to replace the plastics to make it look right again.

.

Nah mate. It's from the A & B models. Quite different.

[mattnzl]

Heres a pic of it from TM. Shes a little rough but running. I have tyres for it. Should make a nice little rebuild.

That's not a '95. It's an earlier E series so likely 89-92ish. Nothing wrong with that, but don't mistakenly buy 95+ H series parts for it ;-)

[nzspokes]

That's not a '95. It's an earlier E series so likely 89-92ish. Nothing wrong with that, but don't mistakenly buy 95+ H series parts for it ;-)

Ive just worked that out but thanks for confirming it. Wont buy anything until I get it and check the serial number.

[paturoa]

You may want to factor in bearings for suspenders and wheels too.

[nzspokes]

You may want to factor in bearings for suspenders and wheels too.

Yup, had planned on bearing kits for steering, linkage etc. Happy to do that stuff and its cheap to. Probably will kit the brakes etc.

And just found a mod to do to the stock pipe for more HP. :wings: This is going to be fun.

[paturoa]

Yup, had planned on bearing kits for steering, linkage etc

You might give your credit card a fright!

Extract the old bearings and take them to a bearing shop like this one just down the road from you.

http://www.saeco.co.nz/newlynn.htm

[Madness]

Extract the old bearings and take them to a bearing shop like this one just down the road from you.

:killingme

[paturoa]

:killingme

:facepalm:

[ktm84mxc]

Looks she's had a hard life, get a Bills or Pro circuit and the muffler to check with Mr Motorcycles as they will have some , a fork kit will do wonders and a shock rebuild.
The sub frame looks twisted , and these had a very soft seat great for comfort but can be a pain if touching the seat base.

[nzspokes]

You might give your credit card a fright!

Extract the old bearings and take them to a bearing shop like this one just down the road from you.

http://www.saeco.co.nz/newlynn.htm

Me mate at Motoone seems to have the bits, http://www.mxshop.co.nz/catalogsearch/result/?q=kdx200

He has linkage kits etc.

[nzspokes]

Looks she's had a hard life, get a Bills or Pro circuit and the muffler to check with Mr Motorcycles as they will have some , a fork kit will do wonders and a shock rebuild.
The sub frame looks twisted , and these had a very soft seat great for comfort but can be a pain if touching the seat base.

Ive planned for a fork and shock rebuild as the bike cost is so low. Are the sub frames hard to straighten?

Was planning on a new seat cover with gripper material so if the foams soft I will redo it, or get Caveweta to do it properly after I stuffed it up.

[gwynfryn]

You could easily sink a lot of time and money into this but its cool to save them. Even doing the work yourself the parts will add up.The E-series has quite a following in the states where a lot were sold. With it running rough and given its age you could be in for a bottom end and cylinder replate. The kips sub valves on the e bikes also regularly shear or chip gears.

If you just want to get out and ride i would suggest a good h series. Having said that i hope you get this one running nice , good luck.

[nzspokes]

You could easily sink a lot of time and money into this but its cool to save them. Even doing the work yourself the parts will add up.The E-series has quite a following in the states where a lot were sold. With it running rough and given its age you could be in for a bottom end and cylinder replate. The kips sub valves on the e bikes also regularly shear or chip gears.

If you just want to get out and ride i would suggest a good h series. Having said that i hope you get this one running nice , good luck.

So would getting a new gears for the Kips is a good idea? Do you not bore the cylinders when they wear? Not worked on this type of 2 stroke before.

[Coldrider]

So would getting a new gears for the Kips is a good idea? Do you not bore the cylinders when they wear? Not worked on this type of 2 stroke before.google 'nikasil'

[nzspokes]

google 'nikasil'

Oh that's cool. So if the bore stuffed you can get it re-done. Seems like a great idea.

[scott411]

Looks she's had a hard life, get a Bills or Pro circuit and the muffler to check with Mr Motorcycles as they will have some , a fork kit will do wonders and a shock rebuild.
The sub frame looks twisted , and these had a very soft seat great for comfort but can be a pain if touching the seat base.

its an earlier E model, looks about a 91 to me, the later model e's (93-94) had upside forks,

i would not bother with a pipe as the STD pipe as not too bad on this model, (the H model pipe was not great from the factory and a PC, FMF or BIlls was a much better option) money would be better spent on getting everything else fresh, the genuine pipes are No longer made, and the last time I tried to track one down it was not a goer 2nd hand, i am not sure if PC or anyone else are still making them new, if the pipe is really bad you can get a NZ made repair kit for the lower front of the pipe (which is the bit that rots out)

[nzspokes]

its an earlier E model, looks about a 91 to me, the later model e's (93-94) had upside forks,

i would not bother with a pipe as the STD pipe as not too bad on this model, (the H model pipe was not great from the factory and a PC, FMF or BIlls was a much better option) money would be better spent on getting everything else fresh, the genuine pipes are No longer made, and the last time I tried to track one down it was not a goer 2nd hand, i am not sure if PC or anyone else are still making them new, if the pipe is really bad you can get a NZ made repair kit for the lower front of the pipe (which is the bit that rots out)

Would that just be a patch welded to the bottom? Have read that you can open up the stock pipe on a E model and gut it as they are packed with sound deadening. That gives a good power gain they say. But im more wanting it running well etc over huge HP.

[scott411]

Would that just be a patch welded to the bottom? Have read that you can open up the stock pipe on a E model and gut it as they are packed with sound deadening. That gives a good power gain they say. But im more wanting it running well etc over huge HP.

the repair kit is basically just the bottom section you weld into what you already have, Musket Mufflers make them and MR MC or any other decent bike shop should be able to get them,

I did not think that they were baffled but have not taken one apart,

the H model (95-06) pipes were baffled and horrible, infact very often you brought the pipe and muffler with teh bike on a kawasaki NZ speical,

[nzspokes]

the repair kit is basically just the bottom section you weld into what you already have, Musket Mufflers make them and MR MC or any other decent bike shop should be able to get them,



Cheers good to know. Was in at Mr Motorcycles earlier, nice bikes there. Saw a few toys I may get for me bike once it turns up.

Would like to do the Maize scramble but think Im pushing it for time.

[nzspokes]

Being new to 2 strokes and all, what 2 stroke oil should I use in it?

[george formby]

Being new to 2 strokes and all, what 2 stroke oil should I use in it?

I'm using agip full synthetic in the DT, used that in the KDX250 too. Use a good bike specific oil, even shell from the local garage is ok. Castrol has the best smell but might be a vintage.

Regarding the pipe. The KDX's are trail / enduro bikes & standard meant to be torquey not peaky. A lot of aftermarket pipes shift the hit to the top end. My 2 fiddly had an FMF fat fucker or some such on it. The bike needed a lot of clutching on hills & in gnarly stuff until it came on the pipe. After that it was a battle for traction or keeping the front wheel down. Not ideal for making progress in technical stuff.
With the standard pipe on the DT it pulls from nothing & tractors up big hills. It's still quick at the top end but does not scare the shit out of me.
Check out the power characteristics & noise of a replacement pipe. The fatty was pretty antisocial, you can hardly hear the DT. Double skinned & heavy but PC & fun. Have fun, compared to the XR you will wet yourself laughing & get those wheelies sussed. Like it or not.:woohoo:

[scott411]

I'm using agip full synthetic in the DT, used that in the KDX250 too. Use a good bike specific oil, even shell from the local garage is ok. Castrol has the best smell but might be a vintage.
:

KDX's need good oil , esp the E model ones, use a fully synthetic 2T, (MR MC sells it bulk if you take your own bottle in)

the most comman problem motor wise on these KDX are stripping the power valves, they are the older style drum type and oil spooge and jam them and strip the gears on them,

DO NOT USE NORMAL 2 STROKE OIL FROM A SERVO, even the bike specific stuff is mineral,

Castrol TTS is available from supercheap and it comes up on a deal every now and then,

[nzspokes]

KDX's need good oil , esp the E model ones, use a fully synthetic 2T, (MR MC sells it bulk if you take your own bottle in)

the most comman problem motor wise on these KDX are stripping the power valves, they are the older style drum type and oil spooge and jam them and strip the gears on them,

DO NOT USE NORMAL 2 STROKE OIL FROM A SERVO, even the bike specific stuff is mineral,

Castrol TTS is available from supercheap and it comes up on a deal every now and then,

Am I best then to rerplace these gears now? Are they easy to get ?

[gwynfryn]

The only real way to know the condition of the power valves is to dismantle, clean and inspect.
I wouldn't do this without a manual or at least someone looking over your shoulder who has done this before. I say this because there are a few traps like supporting the kips actuator shaft while undoing the left hand threaded nut.
Not sure on parts availability for an E bike, Scott may know.
As stated use synthetic oil and stick to a ratio like 40:1. Then make sure it is jetted correctly as this will make a HUGE difference to how the bike runs.

[scott411]

Am I best then to rerplace these gears now? Are they easy to get ?

i would not replace them as matter of course, but clean inspect and see what they are like if you are going to pull it down,

you will need to have a manual as there is a certain way they can do,

have not looked them up in a while to see if everything is still available, but its close to 20 years since this model has been made so parts will be starting to come up NLA,

[nzspokes]

i would not replace them as matter of course, but clean inspect and see what they are like if you are going to pull it down,

you will need to have a manual as there is a certain way they can do,

have not looked them up in a while to see if everything is still available, but its close to 20 years since this model has been made so parts will be starting to come up NLA,

I will get a manual and go through it, thanks for the help.

[scott411]

looked up the power valve drums and gears and they all seem to be available and in NZ,

[nzspokes]

looked up the power valve drums and gears and they all seem to be available and in NZ,

Mint! I will check them out when the bike turns up. Think I may chuck a top end at it from the start. Along with head, linkage and wheel bearings, fork and shock rebuild etc

As it looks to need a rear guard I may try to get a more motocross looking one for it.

[scott411]

Mint! I will check them out when the bike turns up. Think I may chuck a top end at it from the start. Along with head, linkage and wheel bearings, fork and shock rebuild etc

As it looks to need a rear guard I may try to get a more motocross looking one for it.

the KX500 guard fits onto these models with very small mods,

[nzspokes]

the KX500 guard fits onto these models with very small mods,

Wow, great to know. Thanks for the advice.

[mc4aregreat]

http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/categorii/kawasaki.html

[nzspokes]

http://www.manualedereparatie.info/en/categorii/kawasaki.html

Thanks for that! :clap:

[nzspokes]

Would a barrel of a H motor fit a E motor?

[scott411]

Would a barrel of a H motor fit a E motor?

if it has the whole power valve assembly you might be abe to enginner it to fit, but it would not just simply bolt on, i am not sure if even the cylinder studs would line up,

so basically no,

[nzspokes]

if it has the whole power valve assembly you might be abe to enginner it to fit, but it would not just simply bolt on, i am not sure if even the cylinder studs would line up,

so basically no,

Ok, Cool. theres a cheap set on trademe that i would have bought as a backup. But wont bother.

[gwynfryn]

kdxrider.net is a wealth of information.

[nzspokes]

Well at the moment it looks like the seller doesn't want to give me the bike. So unless I hear from him in the next day or so I will walk away from it.

I may look at a newer KDX or KLX.

For trail riding which would be better?

[nzspokes]

Soooo, I now own a 2006 KDX200. And the old KDX seems to be turning up to.

Saw the 2006 and couldn't leave it behind. :cool:

[george formby]

Soooo, I now own a 2006 KDX200. And the old KDX seems to be turning up to.

Saw the 2006 and couldn't leave it behind. :cool:


:lol: You gotta come visit. Ning, ning ning. Have fun.

[307a]

Heres a pic of it from TM. Shes a little rough but running. I have tyres for it. Should make a nice little rebuild.

You paid money for this :shit::shit::shit:

[nzspokes]

So question for those that know. My 06 KDX200, I had a little tumble but no problem with the bike. But after the next lap I noticed fuel coming out the tube at the bottom of the carb which I presume is over flow. I turned it off at the petcock and it stopped, turn it back on and it leaked. But now at home it doesn't do it. Presume a bit of dirt got under the float valve?

Will drain the carb and see what comes out.

[scott411]

the float level could be a bit high, or as you said it could have just had dirt in there, or that the float valve is on its way out,

[nzspokes]

the float level could be a bit high, or as you said it could have just had dirt in there, or that the float valve is on its way out,

I might just get a valve and change it anyway. Looks like I don't even have to pull the carb to do it.

[scott411]

no 2 strokes are great like that, just loosen and twist,

[gwynfryn]

I would remove the carb from the bike as this is the only way to check float height which is more than likely the problem. Even set correctly some will spill some fuel when the bike is leaned over , it shouldn't leak if on the side stand though.

While the carbs off i would check the condition of the reed valves and have a look at what size main jet and pilot jet you have. They came jetted way rich from the factory a 42-45 pilot and 155 main will be close for you.

Remove the air box lid (just leave enough for the cdi to sit on) and hopefully it has a ffm or pro circuit expansion chamber on it . leave the stock muffler but they are heavy.

Then take the forks to Bruin engineering on the Shore.

[nzspokes]

I would remove the carb from the bike as this is the only way to check float height which is more than likely the problem. Even set correctly some will spill some fuel when the bike is leaned over , it shouldn't leak if on the side stand though.

While the carbs off i would check the condition of the reed valves and have a look at what size main jet and pilot jet you have. They came jetted way rich from the factory a 42-45 pilot and 155 main will be close for you.

Remove the air box lid (just leave enough for the cdi to sit on) and hopefully it has a ffm or pro circuit expansion chamber on it . leave the stock muffler but they are heavy.

Then take the forks to Bruin engineering on the Shore.

Its got a pro circuit full pipe. Why take the forks there? Do they have a mod?

will check jetting.

[gwynfryn]

The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.

[nzspokes]

The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.

Not really intrested in swapping the forks out but ive heard about running gold valves. Ive read that XR400 fork springs work out in them for someone my huge weight.

Will contact him.

[scott411]

The forks are its main weakness and many swap out these for kx forks. To do this though you really need the whole front end; triple clamps,forks,and wheel. Some machine work is required to press in the kdx stem.

My bike was transformed by replacing the fork springs and valves. Tjebbe Bruin has someone who makes up something like the race tech gold valves but they work out cheaper.

Its not something that has to be done but keep it mind.

although the KX for swap (or KLX300) is great, the biggest gain in them is getting rid of the underhang of the fork that gets caught in ruts,

I agree with you on the upgrade, springs makes a big difference, they are way to soft in the front from standard for any sort of fast work,

the other mod i like is to get rid of the rubber handlebar mounts, DRC do a kit for $25 for alloy spacers, they are worth is as when teh rubber breaks down the bars move in even the slightest crash,

teh H model KDX is a great all around bike, My old man could have any kawasaki he wants and he still trail rides his KDX

[nzspokes]

although the KX for swap (or KLX300) is great, the biggest gain in them is getting rid of the underhang of the fork that gets caught in ruts,

I agree with you on the upgrade, springs makes a big difference, they are way to soft in the front from standard for any sort of fast work,

the other mod i like is to get rid of the rubber handlebar mounts, DRC do a kit for $25 for alloy spacers, they are worth is as when teh rubber breaks down the bars move in even the slightest crash,

teh H model KDX is a great all around bike, My old man could have any kawasaki he wants and he still trail rides his KDX

But the DRC spacers are to small as i found out on the weekend. Can you get new rubber mounts?

[scott411]

But the DRC spacers are to small as i found out on the weekend. Can you get new rubber mounts?

where they the kawasaki ones? weird, thought they were all the same,

yes you can buy the genuine ones which are not badly priced, or you can machine up something to go in thier if you have the tools to do so,

[nzspokes]

where they the kawasaki ones? weird, thought they were all the same,

yes you can buy the genuine ones which are not badly priced, or you can machine up something to go in thier if you have the tools to do so,

Not sure, they are Red. LOL

Came with the bike and i had a small drop on the weekend and the bars moved. They can move a couple of mmm each way.

[scott411]

Not sure, they are Red. LOL

Came with the bike and i had a small drop on the weekend and the bars moved. They can move a couple of mmm each way.

they will be a bit smaller than the standard rubbers, as the rubber will crush as you tighten them, they should all bolt up tho

[nzspokes]

they will be a bit smaller than the standard rubbers, as the rubber will crush as you tighten them, they should all bolt up tho

No, at fully tight they can move a bit. Just thought as it has oversize bar adaptor on it so the bolt may bottom out before its really tight. will look at that.

[scott411]

No, at fully tight they can move a bit. Just thought as it has oversize bar adaptor on it so the bolt may bottom out before its really tight. will look at that.

that is an issue with some of the big bar rubber mounts, and they came with a spacer in teh kit you may have to put in thier,

[nzspokes]

that is an issue with some of the big bar rubber mounts, and they came with a spacer in teh kit you may have to put in thier,

Its came one the bike. Wont be hard to make something up.

On another note the e-model one turned up last night. So now i have 2. have no motivation to try to fix the E so may wreck it and sell the parts or put it back on TM.

[nzspokes]

So what tyres should I put on my bike? I ride at Thundercross, woodhill and do farm trail rides?

Its got Michy XCs at the moment that are past there best. Was going to sharpen the rear but I think its done.

[paturoa]

So what tyres should I put on my bike?

Cheap ones!

I need some new hoops for my KDX and have been tempted several times recently to buy online from the cycletreads daily specials.

[nzspokes]

Cheap ones!

I need some new hoops for my KDX and have been tempted several times recently to buy online from the cycletreads daily specials.

Well compared to what you pay for road tyres they all seem cheap. I was thinking of sticking with the Michy Xcs but very open to options.

[paturoa]

Well compared to what you pay for road tyres they all seem cheap. I was thinking of sticking with the Michy Xcs but very open to options.

So your after a medium tyre?

[nzspokes]

So your after a medium tyre?

Was after a black round one that made me a much better rider. But apart from that Im open to all suggestions. Im noob to this so don't know whats good or bad. Happy to pay for quality if that really makes a difference, if not then cheap is good.

[gwynfryn]

If youre racing you want every advantage and good tyres are an advantage. If not racing then anything will do. Dont forget tyre pressure and some hd tubes.Shinko 540 front. Michi s12 xc rear are great in the sand and mud if you ride woodhill and riverhead. Last well if you take it easy on the gravel. Cant remember last time i saw mud though.

[nzspokes]

Size question, the manual says it should have a 100/100 tyre and my bikes got a 120/90. Any advantage in going away from the stock size?

[nzspokes]

If youre racing you want every advantage and good tyres are an advantage. If not racing then anything will do. Dont forget tyre pressure and some hd tubes.Shinko 540 front. Michi s12 xc rear are great in the sand and mud if you ride woodhill and riverhead. Last well if you take it easy on the gravel. Cant remember last time i saw mud though.

Not racing. I don't have huge amounts of time to ride so when I do I don't want to have to worry about not having a decent tyre. Today she was all over the place but the trails were very dusty.

[gwynfryn]

Michelin size their tyres differently to everyone else.

[nzspokes]

Michelin size their tyres differently to everyone else.

Oh, thanks. I didn't know that.

[nzspokes]

I would remove the carb from the bike as this is the only way to check float height which is more than likely the problem. Even set correctly some will spill some fuel when the bike is leaned over , it shouldn't leak if on the side stand though.

While the carbs off i would check the condition of the reed valves and have a look at what size main jet and pilot jet you have. They came jetted way rich from the factory a 42-45 pilot and 155 main will be close for you.

Remove the air box lid (just leave enough for the cdi to sit on) and hopefully it has a ffm or pro circuit expansion chamber on it . leave the stock muffler but they are heavy.

Then take the forks to Bruin engineering on the Shore.

Thread dredge.

Im running 155 main and 42 pilot and she is still blowing a lot of smoke. My guess is she is still to rich. Have just moved the clip to the top position. I wouldnt have thought it would have needed leaner?

Have also decided to try get some links to lower her a little.

[scott411]

Thread dredge.

Im running 155 main and 42 pilot and she is still blowing a lot of smoke. My guess is she is still to rich. Have just moved the clip to the top position. I wouldnt have thought it would have needed leaner?

Have also decided to try get some links to lower her a little.

what mixture fuel are you running? remember two strokes blow smoke when they are cold no matter how they are jetted, they burn oil,

what you are running jet wise is ok, i am suprised you need to have the needle that high, we normally ran them in the middle

[nzspokes]

what mixture fuel are you running? remember two strokes blow smoke when they are cold no matter how they are jetted, they burn oil,

what you are running jet wise is ok, i am suprised you need to have the needle that high, we normally ran them in the middle

40:1. Got a trail ride next weekend at Woodhill with short loops so can try a couple of different setups. Seems to blow a lot of smoke under full throttle when warm so It may be main jet size?

I may get a 150 before next weekend and raise the needle a little.

I guess I will make lowering links, seems easy enough.

[nzspokes]

Could the muffler needing a repack cause strange jetting needs? Ive just read I should be doing it every 10 to 15 hours and have not as yet. I doubt the previous owner did.

I will strip it down tomorrow and do it during the week.

[gwynfryn]

Not sure if i would be keen on changing jets in the sand. Its a bit of a pain but looking at the plug can tell you a lot as can an old hand that knows how to jet by experience.
I will be there on sunday, normally down the side road, maroon toyota saloon and kea trailer, come and say hello.

[nzspokes]

Not sure if i would be keen on changing jets in the sand. Its a bit of a pain but looking at the plug can tell you a lot as can an old hand that knows how to jet by experience.
I will be there on sunday, normally down the side road, maroon toyota saloon and kea trailer, come and say hello.

Are you mates with Shaun?

[nzspokes]

Pulled the muffler apart this morning. Found 80% of the holes in the mesh inside were blocked.

[gwynfryn]

Are you mates with Shaun?

Sean P NZFS?

[nzspokes]

Sean P NZFS?

No, I swapped bikes with one of Shauns mates that had a KDX. And a red Toyota, name escapes me.

But will probably bump into you up there. Not literally I hope.

[nzspokes]

Is there a way to check the reed valves without removing the reed block? And if I do remove them how do i tell if they are worn?

And Boysen the best ones to use if they are?

[scott411]

Is there a way to check the reed valves without removing the reed block? And if I do remove them how do i tell if they are worn?

And Boysen the best ones to use if they are?

you cant tell with out removing them,

you put them up to light, if you can see daylight though the reeds where they meet the reed block, also check for chipping or freying on the ends,

[nzspokes]

Turns out needle in the lowest clip and the stock expansion chamber has helped her a lot. But will get the Pro Circut fixed up and back on soon.

[nzspokes]

She went great again at Moto X central. Heaps of torque now, I do wonder if the stock chamber is a good thing or bad. Will get my Pro Circut fixed up and painted and see.

[nzspokes]

So it turns out my Pro Circut pipe is very bent, probably need a new one. Got the stocker on.

Which pipe is better then? Pro Circut platnium or a FMF woods/rev?

[nzspokes]

So it turns out my Pro Circut pipe is very bent, probably need a new one. Got the stocker on.

Which pipe is better then? Pro Circut platnium or a FMF woods/rev?

I managed to straighten my pipe. :banana: Almost ready to go back on the bike.

Anybody got ideas for a better kick starter? Ive got the long jobby thats flogged out.

Ive read a 89 KX125 lever goes on and is shorter.

[nzspokes]

Sooo, just bought a 2000 KX125 to grab the forks from. Anybody done this conversion?

[ktm84mxc]

You should be looking at doing an engine swap if the frames ok on the KX, best way to shed 15kgs og weight, only down side you loose the side stand.

[nzspokes]

You should be looking at doing an engine swap if the frames ok on the KX, best way to shed 15kgs og weight, only down side you loose the side stand.

Bikes a bit knocked about and I love the KDX. And is it really that much weight difference?

[ktm84mxc]

Just do a quick comparo on parts between the KDX and KX, gear lever, brake pedal, bars, more frame rails, steel swing arm[KDX], lights and odometer it all adds up.

[nzspokes]

Just do a quick comparo on parts between the KDX and KX, gear lever, brake pedal, bars, more frame rails, steel swing arm[KDX], lights and odometer it all adds up.

My kdx has a alloy swingarm, no odometer. Must weigh it sometime. But any lighter kx parts may swap over.

[Jay GTI]

I've got it, swap over the frame, engine and the suspension, then you'd have the best of... oh wait...

[nzspokes]

I've got it, swap over the frame, engine and the suspension, then you'd have the best of... oh wait...

Now be kind, I love my KDX. It suits my ability's perfectly. Im not a motocross rider or enduro racer. I just want a reliable bike that rides well for when I get the chance to ride.

And from looking at KXs there is not a lot of difference between them and a KDX, in the older models.

[george formby]

Now be kind, I love my KDX. It suits my ability's perfectly. Im not a motocross rider or enduro racer. I just want a reliable bike that rides well for when I get the chance to ride.
.

Hear. Hear. :yes:

[Jay GTI]

Now be kind, I love my KDX. It suits my ability's perfectly. Im not a motocross rider or enduro racer. I just want a reliable bike that rides well for when I get the chance to ride.

And from looking at KXs there is not a lot of difference between them and a KDX, in the older models.

Ha sorry, that wasn't a dig at the KDX, it was just another wonderful example of my lame attempts at humour... Just with all the swap this for that talk, if you swapped all of those things you'd end up with a stock KX and stock KDX after all your hard work...

I'll get my coat.

[gwynfryn]

The kdx stem needs to be pressed into the kx lower clamp . Then you need to see how you get on with the top clamp, steering stops etc. You will also need the kx front wheel(bigger axle than kx) and the fork guards for brake line routing.
The kx forks will be longer so to keep the same geometry you may need 30-50 mm protruding above the top triple (bar raisers ?) You then run the risk of bottoming on the guard.

[jasonu]

You will also need the kx front wheel(bigger axle than kx) .

You can get around axle size issues by finding different bearings and or using spacer shims. That sort of thing happens a lot in the Bucket Racing world.
How about some pictures of your work.

[nzspokes]

The kdx stem needs to be pressed into the kx lower clamp . Then you need to see how you get on with the top clamp, steering stops etc. You will also need the kx front wheel(bigger axle than kx) and the fork guards for brake line routing.
The kx forks will be longer so to keep the same geometry you may need 30-50 mm protruding above the top triple (bar raisers ?) You then run the risk of bottoming on the guard.

Im buying a complete bike so will have the parts.

[nzspokes]

Think i will do the KX125 kickstart swap to if I can get the right knuckle from Kawasaki.

[nzspokes]

Think i will do the KX125 kickstart swap to if I can get the right knuckle from Kawasaki.

Checked on the price of the knuckle for this conversion, $120:crazy:

I may re-think.....

[FJRider]

Checked on the price of the knuckle for this conversion, $120:crazy:

I may re-think.....

If it works ... the way YOU want it to work ...what's the issue. Fuck all is free anymore ... :yawn:

And what is the cheapest alternative .. ??? :corn:

[Jay GTI]

Checked the price from the internets? Ebay?

...although you won't be able to get the old one off the spline anyway (been there too many times).

[nzspokes]

although the KX for swap (or KLX300) is great, the biggest gain in them is getting rid of the underhang of the fork that gets caught in ruts,

I agree with you on the upgrade, springs makes a big difference, they are way to soft in the front from standard for any sort of fast work,

the other mod i like is to get rid of the rubber handlebar mounts, DRC do a kit for $25 for alloy spacers, they are worth is as when teh rubber breaks down the bars move in even the slightest crash,

teh H model KDX is a great all around bike, My old man could have any kawasaki he wants and he still trail rides his KDX

Im doing the KX125 swap with a 00 fork. Anything I should do to the fork first apart from seals? Ive read some stuff about modding the mid valve for trail riding.

Do you know who would be best to press out the steerer tubes?

[nzspokes]

If it works ... the way YOU want it to work ...what's the issue. Fuck all is free anymore ... :yawn:

And what is the cheapest alternative .. ??? :corn:

I bought it. Works great.

[nzspokes]

Bit of a dredge. Got the KX forks on which highlighted how undersprung the back is. So looking for a 5.6 or 5.8 rear spring. Sending the shock off for a rebuild.

But a obvious question, what grade petrol should I be running it on?

[Jay GTI]

Bit of a dredge. Got the KX forks on which highlighted how undersprung the back is. So looking for a 5.6 or 5.8 rear spring. Sending the shock off for a rebuild.

But a obvious question, what grade petrol should I be running it on?

What ever it's set up for. Higher octane fuel is more detonation resistant, but that just means you can run more advanced timing and/or higher compression. You won't get any real benefit out of running high octane fuel if the bike has been set up for regular fuel, i.e. isn't ported and running some crazy high compression ratio... certainly no more power from doing so.

[ktm84mxc]

50/50 aviation and pump fuel , get 5 thou skimmed from the head , rad/boysen intake , over bored carb, KX ignition etc.

[Jay GTI]

50/50 aviation and pump fuel , get 5 thou skimmed from the head , rad/boysen intake , over bored carb, KX ignition etc.

Or quit messing around and just run it on methanol...

[nzspokes]

certainly no more power from doing so.

Not after more power, just making sure Im not doing damage.

[gwynfryn]

Two strokes are low compression so will run fine on 91. I will only use fresh gas though, any older than two weeks and it goes in the car.
KDX's make great power so looking at suspension is the right thing to do.

[nzspokes]

Two strokes are low compression so will run fine on 91. I will only use fresh gas though, any older than two weeks and it goes in the car.
KDX's make great power so looking at suspension is the right thing to do.

Cheers. Thats what i was after. Power no issue. Suspension will be solved this week.

Its my skills and fitness thats rubbish. Working on fitness now.

[Jay GTI]

Not after more power, just making sure Im not doing damage.

Talked to a kart racer mate about his, he was of the opinion that too high an octane rating is actually counter productive in 2 smokes, as the relative lack of compression means the fuel won't burn properly and leaves deposits behind. Not sure if that has any merit, but sounds reasonable.

[nzspokes]

I think ive found the source of my jetting issue. Check check shows my KIPS is sticking shut. Got it moving but after tomorrows trail ride I guess I will need to clean it out. Not sure how easy that is yet but there you go.

[nzspokes]

Dredge.

Not ridden this in ages and want to sort this jetting once and for all. Its running rich on 155/42. Have been advised to change the Oring under the jet block in the carb which is held down by to security screws. Apparently this can cause richness when it gets old.

Anybody got an idea of the part number of this? Just get the feeling a parts guy is going to look at me blankly when I try to order it.

[george formby]

Please keep us up to date on your carb work. My dad has had a KDX 200SR for a few months now, very low mileage and FMF pipe. Proper little minter. But. It has a noticeable flat spot (to rich) and no end of jetting has resolved it, just moved it. His next attempt is working out the effect of needle profiles.
The bike runs great, a proper wee screamer, he loves it, but after riding a CRM and DT 230 he's determined to get the fueling better.

[nzspokes]

From what I hear this is a common problem.

[scott411]

get them to fax/email you a print out of the KDX200 carb page, i just looked at the fische and can not see the one you mean either ,

or look up on one of the sites that show the parts catelogue,

[nzspokes]

get them to fax/email you a print out of the KDX200 carb page, i just looked at the fische and can not see the one you mean either ,

or look up on one of the sites that show the parts catelogue,
Apparently its not listed in the parts fiche. Will do some looking tonight. Have some pics of it om my laptop.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

[nzspokes]

May be its part number, 323-728-5407 (P/N 021532). Jet block O ring.

[scott411]

May be its part number, 323-728-5407 (P/N 021532). Jet block O ring.

thats not a kawasaki part number,

[nzspokes]

thats not a kawasaki part number,

Im getting the feeling Kawasaki dont sell it. Still looking.

Its this,

[nzspokes]

Found it, will have to import it. May get a few.

http://motocomp-online.com/keihin-pwk-parts/531-keihin-pwk-jet-block-gasket.html

[scott411]

Found it, will have to import it. May get a few.

http://motocomp-online.com/keihin-pwk-parts/531-keihin-pwk-jet-block-gasket.html

ok, never had to get one for a KDX200, but i remember one of NZ top riders had a weird bogging/dieing issue with a KX125 in 96, which an a similar carb, and this was the issue in the end, the screws to take this apart are unusual as well,

[nzspokes]

ok, never had to get one for a KDX200, but i remember one of NZ top riders had a weird bogging/dieing issue with a KX125 in 96, which an a similar carb, and this was the issue in the end, the screws to take this apart are unusual as well,

Its a security torx, nothing hard. US fourms show this to be a common problem. Little surprised Kawasaki dont do them.

Will try Alec at SME to.

[scott411]

Its a security torx, nothing hard. US fourms show this to be a common problem. Little surprised Kawasaki dont do them.

Will try Alec at SME to.

not unusual for Carb parts, (and sometimes suspension parts) for the manufactuers not to do every part,

Alex would be your best best locally,

"comman problem" is not a term i would use for this o ring to go, having only come across it once in 20 plus years of dealing with PWK carbs on dirt bikes,

Internet forums can sometimes overdo a problem that's not that comman, but it is good to get stuff to check when you searching for an issue,

[nzspokes]

not unusual for Carb parts, (and sometimes suspension parts) for the manufactuers not to do every part,

Alex would be your best best locally,

"comman problem" is not a term i would use for this o ring to go, having only come across it once in 20 plus years of dealing with PWK carbs on dirt bikes,

Internet forums can sometimes overdo a problem that's not that comman, but it is good to get stuff to check when you searching for an issue,

Alec doesnt do them. I do wonder if I can just replace the little round o rings to see if that helps.

It would seem to explain my rich running with fairly standard jetting.

[scott411]

Alec doesnt do them. I do wonder if I can just replace the little round o rings to see if that helps.

It would seem to explain my rich running with fairly standard jetting.

i worn needle would explain it too, or worn reeds i just have not seen those o rings give problems so i am skeptical,

if you can get it apart, maybe to inspect if fuel or air is getting past it, but they are not really made to take apart, so it may do more damage taking it apart,

we used to run 155/42 in most of them from memory, does it have a standard reed block in it, as boysen rad valves were semi popular mods for them, and from memory they needed to be jetted leaner with them,

[nzspokes]

i worn needle would explain it too, or worn reeds i just have not seen those o rings give problems so i am skeptical,

if you can get it apart, maybe to inspect if fuel or air is getting past it, but they are not really made to take apart, so it may do more damage taking it apart,

we used to run 155/42 in most of them from memory, does it have a standard reed block in it, as boysen rad valves were semi popular mods for them, and from memory they needed to be jetted leaner with them,

Needle looks good but happy to replace it. Is there a better one to use than the stock one?

Reed block is stock but have just put Boysen reeds on it. Have not ridden it with them in.

Ive got 155/42 in it.

[scott411]

Needle looks good but happy to replace it. Is there a better one to use than the stock one?

Reed block is stock but have just put Boysen reeds on it. Have not ridden it with them in.

Ive got 155/42 in it.

try it with teh reeds, depending on use it may be an issue, i would try it with the new reeds before trying something else,

where is the bog? throttle position wise?

[scott411]

we did not change needles unless it was major mods, usually incl a rad vavle, and more compression,

[scott411]

good page for Keihen tuning,

http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jetting_your_carb.htm

float levels is something than can cause issues as well,

[husaberg]

Needle looks good but happy to replace it. Is there a better one to use than the stock one?

Reed block is stock but have just put Boysen reeds on it. Have not ridden it with them in.

Ive got 155/42 in it.

google the spooge CR500
I am picking you have a worn needle jet with is a common issue with older Keihins the round hole wears oval unlike the Mikuni karbs its not a replaceable part so you have to use a thicker needle to compensate
The band aid cure for the CR500's is a CR125 needle that leans up the midrange I have done it and it works a treat. The proper cure of course is a new carb.
Google should be able to find you a specific recommendation of a worn needle jet on the KDX200.
the symptoms are a mid range richness and excessive smoking and oily pipe plus narrow power range top end is unaffected but it makes the bike peaky.

[nzspokes]

google the spooge CR500
I am picking you have a worn needle jet with is a common issue with older Keihins the round hole wears oval unlike the Mikuni karbs its not a replaceable part so you have to use a thicker needle to compensate
The band aid cure for the CR500's is a CR125 needle that leans up the midrange I have done it and it works a treat. The proper cure of course is a new carb.
Google should be able to find you a specific recommendation of a worn needle jet on the KDX200.
the symptoms are a mid range richness and excessive smoking and oily pipe plus narrow power range top end is unaffected but it makes the bike peaky.

Yup that sounds just like it. Will pull the carb and see if I can see what it looks like.

[husaberg]

Yup that sounds just like it. Will pull the carb and see if I can see what it looks like.

there likely won't be much to see it only take a very small amount of ovalisation (yeah I made up that word)
Sign up to the CR500 riders site pretty sure the thread was called the dreaded spooge. It was a good informative read.

[nzspokes]

there likely won't be much to see it only take a very small amount of ovalisation (yeah I made up that word)
Sign up to the CR500 riders site pretty sure the thread was called the dreaded spooge. It was a good informative read.

Well currently I cant get it to start. :facepalm:

But its not been running in 6 months or so. But this could be why It runs better with the needle in the top clip.

[husaberg]

Well currently I cant get it to start. :facepalm:

But its not been running in 6 months or so. But this could be why It runs better with the needle in the top clip.

Maybe, as it would alter the taper shape further down to partially lean off the setting for midrange.
I will see if I saved the page text in a moment.


My thought's appear in various threads.... here is a synopsis...... Most of it applies to stock motors, running 39mm PWK carb.

Most CR500's I have seen appear to share similar conditions...

1. They wont idle
2. There too rich from off idle to 1/2 throttle
3. Their too lean at 3/4 throttle
4. Their too rich WFO

What to do.... What to do......

The pilot... This controls the fuel ( in concert with the air screw) to set the idle mixture. In math 8+2. 7+3. 6+4, 5+5 all equals 10 right? Well, the pilot and the air screw work the same way to achieve the goal. Most PWK's like a high 30 to low 40 pilot, PJ's seem to prefer a high 40 to mid 50 pilot. Depending on the temp, altitude, humidity, etc..etc. you fine tune the mixture with the air screw to get the mixture right for the current conditions where your riding. When you have the correct pilot, this screw becomes pretty sensitive. 1/4 of a turn should do allot. If it doesn’t, or if you are more than 2 turn out, you probably have the wrong pilot. Also if the engine idles about the same with the choke on or off, you probably have the wrong pilot.

ZipTy makes this killer " Air Screw" that makes adjusting it a breeze when out on the trial.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/product_detail.aspx?id=MTA5OQ==



When everything is as it should be, it should start easy (cold) with the choke on, then as its warming up it should start running crappy until you shut the choke off. Then it should run smoothly, and predictably ( No stalling as an example) for the rest of the day. If it starts easy (cold) with the choke off, your way rich. It wont surge during deceleration or run "choppy" at part throttle settings when its set right. It should run fairly "four stroke" like . On my bike with a PWK I run a #40. In the high desert my A/S is about 1.5 turns out to lean things, down at sea level is about .25 turns out to richen it. Start wrenching and congratulations once you reach this point. NOTE: Changing the pilot and airscrew setting will have hardly any effect on other throttle settings, don't goof up your pilot settings chasing other issues!

The needle, your best friend.....

First off, understand the needle does not control the fuel flow at most throttle settings... Its the difference in area between the needle diameter and the fixed hole machined into the carb body that it slides up and down in that controls the fuel flow. I mention this as people assume that what works for one bike will work for another. WRONG!..... If the carb you have has a larger hole than your buddies ( due to age, wear, or different tooling used during its manufacture) your bike will be forever "richer" if you run the same needle he does. Understand this important fact? Mukini's have a screw in "needle jet" and are superior to Keihins in this regard.

I assume you do, so moving on heres the rest of the story. As I stated, most CR500's seem rich down low. This causes lazy-ness, plugged pipes ( I ve seen them weigh it at 25 lbs...) the dreaded "spooge", and poor mileage. The cure? Increase needle diameter. Stock Honda needles ( R1368) are 2.68 mm thick. Something in the low 70's ( 2.72 as an example) really cleans up the mess.

The other parameter of the needle we are interested in is the taper, or how quickly it gets pointy for those board members in Virginia. Under a good load, on a hot day, allot of bikes ping at around 3/4 throttle. Increasing the taper from 1.3 degrees to 1.4 ( or even 1.5 for you duners) richens up the mixture to about 3/4 throttle and helps reduce detonation problems.

So, what’s the "Bob's Magic Needle" number? As you can see, there isn’t one. Its depends heavily on your bike. I good place to start is a 1472 ( DGN) , and start in the 3rd clip from the top.

Main jet. Once you crank that throttle OPEN and get the dang needle out of the way, the main jet comes into play, AND NOT BEFORE! Folks often keep playing with the main jet trying to fix anything from hard starting to fouling plugs. These same folks probably never pin it either and are accomplishing nothing. Main jet sizes from the mid 160's to mid 170's are the norm. If you find you are going beyond these numbers in either direction,something is probably wrong elsewhere.

Other points to ponder....

1. Use a fuel filter.

2. Use quality 2 stroke oil at 32 / 44:1 ( as you lean out the bottom end, you are also reducing the amount of oil entering the engine.

3. ONLY use REAL Keihin parts. They cost more because their worth more. As an example, the main jets are drilled, then flowed, then stamped with the proper number. Aftermarket jets are simply drilled, then stamped, and are very inconsistent.

4. DONT GET FANATICIAL REGARDING JETTING! I have seen guys waste a whole day when they could be riding playing with their carb. Guess what? These carbs are low tech, marginal mixers at best and its rare you ride in identical conditions day to day. YOU WILL NEVER HAVE YOUR CARB SET PERFECT. Live with that statement, and have fun instead of frustration.

[nzspokes]

Got it running. Fresh plug and some kicking. Tons of smoke but most will be from kicking it so much.

Made it a little sight fuel gauge at the same time.

[F5 Dave]

Actually it is a replaceable part, sort of. But yes check with torch for ovality.

The carbs come apart and I have seen the posts that contains the jet on eBay. Or you can take it out and get a toolmaker to make a precise replacement bit of brass.

[nzspokes]

Maybe, as it would alter the taper shape further down to partially lean off the setting for midrange.
I will see if I saved the page text in a moment.

Cheers, good info there.

Will do some plug chops when I can find some flat ground to ride it. May take it to work one weekend and blast around the carpark.

[nzspokes]

Actually it is a replaceable part, sort of. But yes check with torch for ovality.

The carbs come apart and I have seen the posts that contains the jet on eBay. Or you can take it out and get a toolmaker to make a precise replacement bit of brass.

That had been my thoughts. Another would be to drill it and shim it back to size.

[F5 Dave]

Yeah its real precise. Anyway grab a torch and check it. Once it's oval you get wet drops so its impossible to jet properly. That said my kdx went a billion times better with the right needle, pilot and main. Got specs from the justkdx website.

[nzspokes]

Starting to wonder if my float height is off. Measured it last time it was off but will try to make a plug and hose to come off the bottom of the float bowl to check it.

[F5 Dave]

Nah. Just set it so it doesn't overflow and just overflows when on the stand on a slight downhill and its fine. Won't affect things in-between failure mode. Obviously bike has to have had a run through the gears before it will behave. Old gas will affect starting and cold riding considerably, warm riding a little. Plastic tanks lose end gases quickly.

[george formby]

Nah. Just set it so it doesn't overflow and just overflows when on the stand on a slight downhill and its fine. Won't affect things in-between failure mode. Obviously bike has to have had a run through the gears before it will behave. Old gas will affect starting and cold riding considerably, warm riding a little. Plastic tanks lose end gases quickly.


Ahhhhh, that's where the petrol comes from when I take a big step off and try to hold the bike up. Thank you. At least 2 of my bikes have correct float height by that method.

[F5 Dave]

Pwks are good carbs but can be temperamental for flooding or starving on long uphills if set too low. Won't affect jetting like some old carbs though.

[nzspokes]

Just had the carb off and it was set way to high. Will see how that goes.

[nzspokes]

Anybody know what the sandpit is like currently? I guess real soft?

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

[nzspokes]

Went for a ride today and got to really open it up. I was doing runs up and down a open woop area. Full throttle in 4th she was bellowing blue smoke. So way to fat on the main.

Also did the highest idle speed on the air jet trick and it runs fastest at idle at 5 turns out. Again, way out of range.

Current jetting is 40/155. Will drop to 35/145 and see what happens. Its got new Boysen reeds which do say you may need to lean it up.

Bike did feel great under power.

[F5 Dave]

Blue smoke on full throttle doesn't ness mean too rich like black smoke on a 4 stroke. And you are proposing 4 jet sizes smaller. Move with caution try a size smaller and see if it runs better. Same with the pilot, try a 38 first. 5 half turns or 5 full turns? That woul be too far out and airleak territory.

[nzspokes]

Blue smoke on full throttle doesn't ness mean too rich like black smoke on a 4 stroke. And you are proposing 4 jet sizes smaller. Move with caution try a size smaller and see if it runs better. Same with the pilot, try a 38 first. 5 half turns or 5 full turns? That woul be too far out and airleak territory.

I just found a 150 I will try and the 35. Im getting tons of splooge as well.

Yeah 5 full turns, long way out.

[nzspokes]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/06/bb117ec1c7c2a46932a5b72660da5d6f.jpgThis is my plug with current jetting.

Sent from my GT-I9300T using Tapatalk

[F5 Dave]

I feel a I seized my bike thread coming on and bloody 2 strokes rant.

concerned enough that I looked up my archives. On my 91 (89-94 the same) I was running a 45 /152 and either R1173N or 1172, can't remember .had boysen reeds as well. This jetting change from std cleared it up immensely .

I can't see why on nz gas you should have wildly different jetting.

You out never did respond about ovality of needle jet. You can't jet around this problem. Most bikes seize with closed throttle.hence pilot.

[F5 Dave]

Plug photo means nothing. Really nothing. You can only check main full throttle and only under controlled circumstances. Just pulling it out won't work.

Im im probably coming across as a dick but I'm really concerned that it will cook itself. 5 turns of airscrew is about 2 more than you should ever try, it will be ready to fall out and leaking as well

[nzspokes]

Plug photo means nothing. Really nothing. You can only check main full throttle and only under controlled circumstances. Just pulling it out won't work.

Im im probably coming across as a dick but I'm really concerned that it will cook itself. 5 turns of airscrew is about 2 more than you should ever try, it will be ready to fall out and leaking as well

Mine is an 06 so slightly different motor. Im going to run it up this afternoon and see how it sets up on the 35. Its easy to change back so if Im at all not happy I will do so.

Below is the guide Im using as the base for tuning it.

The only way to know what jetting changes you will need is by trial-and-error. No one can give you jetting specs, because every bike is different,

every rider has a different style, and jetting is totally weather dependent. Unless the person telling you what jets to use is riding an identical bike,

on the exact same track, at the same time, his recommendations are meaningless.

Jetting is fairly simple, and is a useful skill to learn if you ride a two-stroke and want it to perform at it's best.

It's very important that you start with the pilot circuit. The reason is simple. The pilot circuit affects the entire throttle range. When you are at

full throttle, the main jet is the primary fuel metering device, but the pilot is still delivering fuel as well, adding to the total amount of fuel that your

engine is receiving.

Before you start to rejet your bike, you need a clean air filter, a fresh

plug (actually you need several plugs to do plug-chop tests for the main jet), and fresh fuel. One important detail: Make sure the engine is in good

mechanical condition. If your engine has a worn top-end, fix it first. Trying to jet a worn out engine is a waste of time. The same goes for

reeds that don't seal properly, and a silencer that needs re-packing. Worn reeds will mimic rich jetting, and worn rings will mimic lean jetting.

Before you start the jet testing, install a fresh plug. Set the float level to the proper specs, an incorrect float height will affect your jetting all

across the throttle range.

Warm the bike completely, and shut it off.

As already stated, start with the pilot circuit. Turn the airscrew all the way in, then turn it out 1.5 turns to start. Start the engine, and turn the idle

screw in until you get a slightly fast idle, or hold the throttle just barely cracked, to keep the engine idleing. Turn the airscrew slowly in, and then

out, until you find the point where the idle is fastest. Stop there. Do not open the screw any farther, or your throttle response will be flat and

mushy, and the bike may even bog. This is only the starting point, we will still have to tune the airscrew for the best response.

Now is the time to determine if you have the correct pilot installed in your carb. The airscrew position determines this for you, making it very

simple. If your airscrew is less than 1 turn from closed, you need a larger pilot jet. If it is more than 2.5 turns from closed, you need a smaller pilot jet.

Once you have determined (and installed it if it's necessary to change it) the correct pilot jet size, and tuned the airscrew for the fastest idle, it's

time to tune the airscrew for the best throttle response. Again, make sure the bike is at full operating temperature. Set the idle back down (the bike

should still idle, despite what you read in the Moto Tabloids), and ride the bike, using closed-to-1/4 throttle transitions. Turn the airscrew slightly in

either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open. Most bikes are sensitive to changes as

small as 1/8 of a turn.

The airscrew is not a set-it-and-leave-it adjustment. You have to

constantly re-adjust the airscrew to compensate for changing outdoor temps and humidity. An airscrew setting that is perfect in the cool

morning air will likely be too rich in the heat of the mid-day.

Now, it's time to work on the needle. Mark the throttle grip at 1/4 and 3/4

openings. Ride the bike between these two marks. If the bike bogs for a second before responding to throttle, lower the clip (raising the needle) a

notch at a time until the engine picks up smoothly. If the bike sputters or sounds rough when giving it throttle, raise the clip (lowering the needle)

until it runs cleanly. There isn't really any way to test the needle other than by feel, but it's usually quite obvious when it's right or wrong.

Last is the main jet. The main jet affects from 1/2 to full throttle. The easiest way to test it is to do a throttle-chop test. With the bike fully

warmed up, find a long straight, and install a fresh plug. Start the engine, and do a full-throttle run down the straight, through all gears. As soon as

the bike tops out, pull the clutch in, and kill the engine, coasting to a stop. Remove the plug, and look deep down inside the threads, at the base of

the insulator. If it is white or gray, the main is too lean. If it is dark brown or black, the main is too rich. The correct color is a medium-dark mocha

brown or tan.

Once you have a little bit of experience with jetting changes, and you

start to learn the difference in feel between "rich" and "lean", you'll begin to learn, just from the sound of the exhaust and the feel of the power, not

only if the bike is running rich or lean, but even which one of the carb circuits is the culprit.

The slide is also a tuning variable for jetting, but slides are very expensive, and few bikes need different slides, so we won't go into that

here.

[F5 Dave]

Ahh bike SIG says 06. For some reason I thought you had an oldie. A mate just bought a 93.

He explains the sparkplug method. Any deviation from that invalidates the test.

[nzspokes]

Just did the idle jet test and found the highest idle speed was only 1/2 turn. So I have found I need 38 then. Have put the 40 back in and a 150 main.

Will take it up to the Sandpit tomorrow am for a blat.

[gwynfryn]

looked up my old kdx notes and I ran 42/155 and just moved the needle for summer/winter, Auckland sea level.
06 200
40:1
rad valve
full fmf
no air box lid

It has been warm lately so a 150 may not be far off but I like the security of a slightly fat top end for woodhiil sand.
Don't be fooled into jetting by the amount of spooge.

[nzspokes]

but I like the security of a slightly fat top end for woodhiil sand.
Don't be fooled into jetting by the amount of spooge.

Why the fat top end?

Our spec is very close except im on a PC system and Boysen reeds.

[Reckless]

Why the fat top end?

Our spec is very close except im on a PC system and Boysen reeds.

I run fat out the sandpit too with my KTM200, Copperish in the inner and wetish around the outside ring. Different two stroke oils will run different colours.
Good Fat power not thinner power with a dry plug like I'd run when I was karting in my 125 shifter.
I get lazy and leave it like that summer and winter just tend to give the power valve adjuster a turn if I want to take some sting out of it if I ride wet clay.
Seldom touch the Air screw, it starts and goes well so just leave it. I reckon the above gives me way enough power for trail riding even on the mx track at Ardmore. Running fat (slightly rich) extends the rebuild time as well.
I usually do ring and measure up 50-60 hours but Danger on here was still running good power in his 2hundy after 200 hours untouched.
I cant see a KDX 2 smoker used for trails should be any different unless you want it on song for every weather and track condition everytime you go out?
Quite Frankly I cant out ride my bike even when its set up lazy. Actually climbs better without the 100% 2 stroke sting coming at ya all the time.
Anyway each to their own LOL

[nzspokes]

I run fat out the sandpit too with my KTM200, Copperish in the inner and wetish around the outside ring. Different two stroke oils will run different colours.
Good Fat power not thinner power with a dry plug like I'd run when I was karting in my 125 shifter.
I get lazy and leave it like that summer and winter just tend to give the power valve adjuster a turn if I want to take some sting out of it if I ride wet clay.
Seldom touch the Air screw, it starts and goes well so just leave it. I reckon the above gives me way enough power for trail riding even on the mx track at Ardmore. Running fat (slightly rich) extends the rebuild time as well.
I usually do ring and measure up 50-60 hours but Danger on here was still running good power in his 2hundy after 200 hours untouched.
I cant see a KDX 2 smoker used for trails should be any different unless you want it on song for every weather and track condition everytime you go out?
Quite Frankly I cant out ride my bike even when its set up lazy. Actually climbs better without the 100% 2 stroke sting coming at ya all the time.
Anyway each to their own LOL

Fair call thinking about it. I do find on slow climbs in the sand its hard to keep the revs down and as soon as it comes on pipe it digs a hole. I may just go back to my 40/155.

Im going to order a thumb airscrew from the UK though just to make life easier. I can adjust when the power valve comes in which for my next ride I may soften it right off.

But I do like it when its singing on the pipe.

I do want a LH rear brake though. I have a plan to make it which I will start on today if the weather stops me going to the sandpit.

[nzspokes]

Well I have a functional LH thumb brake. Will refine it with some stronger parts but it seems to be able to hold the bike with the back wheel locked. I doubt it will lock the back wheel when riding but I dont want that anyway. Will post some photos when Ive done a bit more work on it.

[F5 Dave]

Cool, often think about one, be great as traction control in the slop.

[nzspokes]

Another wee blast up Woodhill today.

Played with the fuel screw and the sweet spot is at 1 1/4 turns out. So I really need to drop to a 38 idle. Mid felt fine. Top end flat with the 152 so will go back to a 155. Didnt sit her at high revs in case it was to lean.

Need to re-valve the KX forks. Not getting anywhere like full travel and its pounding me. Spring rate looks good from sag settings so still to much comp damping.