The definitive Bucket bike track protection guide

[F5 Dave]

Has not been written yet. In talking with Fishie today I have decided to produce a reasonable stab at it.

The idea is that we formulate a reasonable guide so people can make/fit practicable track protection, I will collate it & pdf it so it can be stored here & distributed (if a Mod could sticky this if this goes somewhere).

It can also be handed out at meetings & maybe used by scrutineers.


But I need your help.

I need pictures. Please send me pictures of you innovative nyloning solutions for various bikes.

I also want pics of flimsy solutions that you have realised aren't up to scratch & need re-engineering, (we won't name & shame, I'm also relooking at mine too for weakness to attack).

Send me a PM if you have some pics to send & I'll send you an email address.

Please don't make me do all the work, resize them to say 200kb with the background cut off.

Any suggestions for places to get nylon (or rather Acetal), or excerts that could be added then fire them below.


I'll try edit it & we'll have a first draft.

[chrisc]

maybe it's worth adding a short listing of places to purchases slider material from. I got some from Auckland Bearings in Glenfield on the North Shore for a fairly reasonable price.

[all4A50s]

Here's my solutions.
All the attached photos are of solutions I have come up with after taking advice from more experienced bucket builders.

When I haven't had a way of bolting on the slider to the frame, etc I have welded on a bolt (see the 2 exhaust sliders) and used spacers to get the slider to sit with the nut inside the profile of the slider.

Most of which work well except for the "Not so good method"; by doing by this method the slider can move and compact on impact.

What I have used;
Bread boards are always a good cheap option.
The small skateboards from the warehouse, etc, which sell for $10-15 ea gives you 4.
Some are from old buckets I have pilfered (the better looking ones).
I have used old bearings, pipe and nuts as spacers.
Big Knobs also make some pretty cool complete range for your bucket.

[all4A50s]

And some more

[saxet]

This set up on the foot pegs has worked well for me.I didn't tighten the bolt holding the foot rest crash bung too much as it is still the pivot for the foot peg. Used locktight to secure the nut.
All made with an electric drill , drill bits, a hole saw and a file.
279214
You'd be suprised what can touch down that you wouldn't expect.
E.g. front brake master cylinder...Being rectified as we speak by fiitting a much smaller one from Burt.
Being smaller it'll tuck away more easily and It'll be better than standard AND cheeeeeep.
279215

[Gigglebutton]

Mulford Plastics in Penrose Auck have an offcuts bin in their reception. They sell round , square , flat bar and will cut from sheet. Tell them what its for and they may give you an offcut for free or sell it to you cheap.

[Yow Ling]

Although designed by an engineer, these just arent manly enough

279221

[F5 Dave]

Wonderful, thanks so far guys, keep em coming. Maybe this thread will grow & I'll use it to make the doc.

from the PM"always found K-Mart sell the cheapest skateboards, cheaper even than buying wheels on their own."

Beautiful.

Mike those are fantastic pictures, I can't imagine that would survive falling off its stand, but worse they could very well impale one's leg in a crash as legs aren't made of very sturdy stuff & even a petite girl can make holes in the lino with stilettos (you should see the damage an 80kg bloke makes with them. I think I'll have to stick to flats).

I think a good test is to approach at your crash bungs with a cricket bat & ask yourself: Will they survive a damn good smack with this? If you don't know, then there is only one way to find out :eek5:(don't worry about hurting the cricket bat, no good can come from ball sports).

[Skunk]

Don't forget that when you crash THE END OF THE FOOTPEG hits the ground. Don't just cover the underside - COVER THE END.

My footpegs are solid Acetal as well as the toe piece on the rear brake and gearlever.

All4A50s - I told you to fix that rear brake lever. Why is it not done? :nya:

Grayley Plastics in Petone.

[all4A50s]

All4A50s - I told you to fix that rear brake lever. Why is it not done? :nya:

Grayley Plastics in Petone.

Sorry and it is being done before the next meet. I needed a bearing in the pivot point and have sourced one and is one mission I have tomorrow night to fit.

[Moooools]

Although designed by an engineer, these just arent manly enough

279221


Hahahahaha. Now where did you dredge that up from? Those were iteration one and massively undersized. Made while I was still at high school (previous to any engineering experience thankyouverymuch. Didn't even know what a bending moment was apparently). They never even made it to the track. They were replaced with 50mm round stock mounted much nicer and held up well. What was I thinking?:weep:

[John_H]

Just been adding some different protection to my foot pegs and the footpeg bases where they pivot from. It's pretty rough and ready but I think it will be pretty effective.

279269279270

[Deano]

Are titanium knee sliders a no no ? :whistle:

[sinfull]

Riverbank engineering in Otaki

[fi5hy]

Are titanium knee sliders a no no ? :whistle:
Yes they spark and look like something on your bike is hitting the ground, We had Chopper run them for a very very short time (one race) before someone noticed and asked for them to be removed.

[Deano]

Yes they spark and look like something on your bike is hitting the ground, We had Chopper run them for a very very short time (one race) before someone noticed and asked for them to be removed.

Mine don't spark :( but they do sound like the bike is scraping. I guess I should put the plastic ones back on next time.

[F5 Dave]

From the PM bag, thanks Bkts4me, good find

http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/skateboarding-rollerblading/wheels/auction-567384036.htm

The more I think about it the more I think the rear axle is one of the hardest areas to protect. The chain adjuster makes drilling that area of the swingarm impracticable.

Some bigger bikes have stand mounts which you can screw bobbins & thus bungs easily, but most buckets would not without welding some on.

If you put them just forward of the chain adjusters there is the potential that in a typical low-side ones body hitting the deck under the bike at the time of impact is levering the front of the bike up a little so the bung & the axle will both scrape.

[Pumba]

Ok for those with little skill/time and a decent budget with an FXR http://www.bigknobs.com.au/bucketinfo.htm

I have a set of the front sliders, and rear paddock stand lifter slider combo on mine, really well made and have worn well. The rear lifter part didnt really work with my paddock stand, but I suspect that had for to do with my stand than the sliders.

http://www.bigknobs.com.au/fxr150.JPG

[F5 Dave]

That looks pretty complete & good to see FXR have those SW mounts.

I would be a bit unkeen to put a plastic sleeve under an axle nut, but I have seen bungs on top of Nuts so not sure how they are secured. Has to be easy enough to get out of the way with wheel changes.

[Deano]

Plastic bubbly wine bottle 'corks' are the best cheap alternative for the bar ends?

[Pumba]

Yea I know what you mean Dave. Not something I was keen on either; but with the Big Knobs design the plastic slider bolts onto a steel backing plate, and it is the backing plate which the axle goes through so no plastic under the axle to cause issues.

[Pumba]

Plastic bubbly wine bottle 'corks' are the best cheap alternative for the bar ends?

I have used them from a while. They preform ok but really only a one hit wonder and not a long term solution. I really should get something better.

[F5 Dave]

I have already written that into the draft (that is slowly formulating in spare time) Champagne corks are total rubbish, they can stay in place, but they can pop out just as easy. Too dangerous.

[koba]

I have already written that into the draft (that is slowly formulating in spare time) Champagne corks are total rubbish, they can stay in place, but they can pop out just as easy. Too dangerous.

I've found the plastic brown 'Radial finned' type to be quite resilient.
That is with them fitting tightly into the bar ends without them being so tight that they are damaged on the way in.
I've drilled a small hole though the bar and slider and retained with lock-wire when there has been any doubt.
I replace them when there is any sign that crash damage may affect them being retained.

Good, well fastened solid nylon will always be better though.

I won't ever use the expanding rubber bar end retainers again either, too unreliable; for worse than brown plastic corks.

[koba]

Where mounting axle sliders is too difficult I've had some success with drilling and tapping the axle ends to accept a capscrew and crash bung.
The design is quite important, the shape of the bung needs to add to the support.


There are some disadvantages to this approach;

If they do snap the remains will be a shit to get out of the axle.
As with any crash protection, If they fail the track will suffer. Back up can't be overlooked here, ask what will hit next if it snaps or the handlebar breaks or...
When used on my rear axle they often pull it out of alignment.
There is a risk of bending the axle in a big crash.

All this aside I think in a lot of situations they are a reasonable option.
Making them as short as practical is helpful, to minimise the strain on the cap screw.


The attached picture shows some things to bear in mind when making sliders, this applies to more than just sliders on axle ends.


The top one is good because it has a meaty area of plastic to clamp down on, unlike the bottom picture.

I should have added numbers, however...

Notice the middle pic isn't well supported?
With a real good smash it is much more likely to shear the bolt off. That's really undesirable.
The length of the slider gives more leverage, balancing this against position and sliding life is a delicate balance. A bit of common sense is needed to make the best call.
From experience I would say that 40mm for the total length of the bun is pushing the max length for an M6 capscrew, I'm going to make new ones quite a lot shorter than this.

Bottom Pic, make sure the screw has plenty of purchase in whatever it is screwed into, be it axle, swingarm or frame.
A badly tacked on M6 nut won't work!

Bottom pic again, make sure the bung has a good, grunty, bit of plastic underneath it, if it's too thin it will break.

The other alternative is to use a steel base, I've done this when the axle is too skinny to tap into, I'll post diagram later but it wasn't too far off that big knobs one shown above.

A slight radius on cuts is helpful too, sharp edges are bad for strength.



More to come, please let me know if this is constructive or not...


Edit: also note the shank of the capscrew on the top pic, this is stronger than if it was threaded all the way along; as in the other pics.

[Pumba]

....Edit: also note the shank of the capscrew on the top pic, this is stronger than if it was threaded all the way along; as in the other pics.

Well I didnt realise that; therefore your post was constructive and you can continue with the informative post. Nice diagram as well.

[speedpro]

This has motivated me to sort out a few things. I've had a look at skate wheels and decided they were too soft and grippy adding to the possibility of them grabbing the track and either twisting whatever they were bolted to or them being ripped off and allowing damage to the track. I've cut pieces from hard slippy plastic and bolted and hoseclipped it into position over axle ends etc. I've used a standard wood saw to cut the plastic and flat wood drills to cut the holes and recesses. To cut round pieces out I've used a regular holesaw and cleared the plastic from the saw teeth using a duster gun regularly so it keeps cutting nicely. I used the duster gun so I didn't need to keep stopping the drill press. I found I had a couple of 6mm button head cap screws with 13mm dia heads. I used one to attach a round bobbin to the end of the front axle.

[F5 Dave]

Mal & Mike, this is gold, some good ideas alternative to some of my thoughts & all the better for it.

[Henk]

I've been running axle end bobins with the axle tapped for an M6 cap screw for a while now, they work fine but make sure you check the bolts after every crash. They can go great for ages but once they bend they only have a crash or two left in them which leaves you with no crash protection and a sheared bolt in your axle when they do break.

[F5 Dave]

Sounds to me like a solution that is best left to those savvy enough, but best avoided by general rank & file.

[Henk]

Sounds to me like a solution that is best left to those savvy enough, but best avoided by general rank & file.

I'm pretty rank and I own a file. I have thought about changing from M6 to M8 to see how it would fare but I'm too lazy to get it done. There looks to be enough room for an 8mm capscrew.

[all4A50s]

I'm pretty rank and I own a file. I have thought about changing from M6 to M8 to see how it would fare but I'm too lazy to get it done. There looks to be enough room for an 8mm capscrew.

When I can I use M8 or even M10 bolts when attaching sliders as M6 tend to bend on me and can be a complete arse to get out.

I'm sad to receive the email forwarded from Andrew about VIC club taking the rap for the damage to Kaitoke. Please, please get the bikes sorted before Sunday week. I remember when we got to use Kaitoke track again and the hoops Chris jumped through to give us the opportunity yo use the place. I'm not bitching but pleading for the bikes to be prepped (and I'm no saint at this). PM me if you need a hand and I will try to help when I can.

[F5 Dave]

ok the Doc is coming together as I have a moment, but probably needs a cull & edit.

Some more pics of alternative/well engineered crash bung solutions for rear axlenuts or pegs would be good.


+ we probably need a mod to sticky this. Who is the Bucket section Mod these days?

[F5 Dave]

Some ideas for folding pegs & what is exposed when they fold is a hot topic. The hinge or back of peg exposed can be quite dangerously sharp & often steel.



Raising the question:
I wonder if the time to get clearance from Kart tracks to run solid pegs? A non folding stubby peg with grunty slider in the end of it may be a good solution as long as it doesn't just break off.

Some tracks had mandatory folding pegs rule. With many tracks in play now with NI series, is it possible to get a mandate from the various kart clubs on this matter?

[crazy man]

Some ideas for folding pegs & what is exposed when they fold is a hot topic. The hinge or back of peg exposed can be quite dangerously sharp & often steel.



Raising the question:
I wonder if the time to get clearance from Kart tracks to run solid pegs? A non folding stubby peg with grunty slider in the end of it may be a good solution as long as it doesn't just break off.

Some tracks had mandatory folding pegs rule. With many tracks in play now with NI series, is it possible to get a mandate from the various kart clubs on this matter?l'v always thought solid nilon pegs are better but was told years ago to remove them ! dont know were there heads at! . some sand paper or rubber stuck to them and there all good

[F5 Dave]

Well rules are rules so folding it is. But time to re-evaluate the situation. I've always thought solid nylon a bit slippery & anything stuck to them doesn't stay stuck. But a solid ally peg with nylon bung is easy to make & hard to fault.

But it needs approval from the kart tracks to use.

[speights_bud]

Unfortunately my bucket is in someone else's shed at the moment.

Re difficult to nylon the axle/swingarm. what i did was take a rectangular block of Nylon about 50mm thick and use a skill saw set on about 15mm depth of cut and cut a channel just narrower than the height of the swing arm. essentially a C-section that fits tightly over the swingarm. then used counter bored cap screw to fit.

Useless without photos but ill see what i can dig up

CAPSCREWS ARE CHEAP just go to an engineering supplier.

[F5 Dave]

ok here is the first draft.

I'm not proud of it, but this is done in smoko breaks & last min rush to get something ready before the weekend for local race.


It needs some improvements. This is where you come in. Critique & offer advice & pictures if you see areas that can be improved on other bikes.

[koba]

I missed the racing today to prep the FXR better, more and better Nylon and a slide carb.

I think brake and gear levers are under estimated as potential gougers.

The FXR had a piece of Acetal screwed to the bottom of it but I've since decided it needs to be better than that.

Have a look at the attached pic. 280068

Not how the plastic extends to under the leaver, this protects when it bends.

Also note the footpeg and how I bent it around to cover the end of the peg too. (sorry for the bad photo, I'll get a better one later)

Bending Acetal or other plastics can be done with a heat gun.
I this case I firmly secured it in a vice, heated it until it was well hot then smashed around with a hammer. I kept smacking and keeping the heat on it until it was almost molten then leaned hard on it and held it in place until it cooled. It sprang back a wee bit so I put it in the vice in such a way that it moved it to the shape I want and then I applied more heat.

Should have taken some pics but I prob will when I do Mark II, this will have better protection under the peg when it is folded up.
All I have done there at this point it round off the sharp edges.

[F5 Dave]

Thanks this is good stuff, FXR brake lever is a problem.

[quallman1234]

What i have used is plastic construction packers. These are cheap as. Come in 1mm/2mm/5mm/10mm/15mm/20mm thickness. About 100Wx200L.
They are hard as, and should last long. They do wear away (which is good). I'll get a price on how much they really are, but i'm sure they are only a couple bucks each, and can be used everywhere. Just use a wood drill to get a flat for the bolt heads.

I disagree with the use off hose clamps. They do come loose and have the potential to rotate. Often they have some metal exposing to the ground. Although not much damage will be done, there is the potential for some damage to be done.

I am happy to drill and tap ends of axles for anyone in wellington, if they have no access to a lathe.280082

[all4A50s]

What i have used is plastic construction packers. These are cheap as. Come in 1mm/2mm/5mm/10mm/15mm/20mm thickness. About 100Wx200L.
They are hard as, and should last long. They do wear away (which is good). I'll get a price on how much they really are, but i'm sure they are only a couple bucks each, and can be used everywhere. Just use a wood drill to get a flat for the bolt heads.

I disagree with the use off hose clamps. They do come loose and have the potential to rotate. Often they have some metal exposing to the ground. Although not much damage will be done, there is the potential for some damage to be done.

I am happy to drill and tap ends of axles for anyone in wellington, if they have no access to a lathe.280082

I am going to have a play with some nylon to replace the bolts on my foot levers and come up with some oval shaped pieces to bolt on.

[davebullet]

I'm not clear on whether hose / pipe clamps are acceptable... here's my thinking (don't have any photos yet)

1. at least 2 pipe clamps per piece of nylon - to resist slip or twist on impact. less of an issue / problem on square section fixings (eg. box steel frame / swingarm) - more of an issue on round fixings (eg. fork outers)
2. metal part of clamp "countersunk" by at least 20mm - so a grind on the track cannot expose the pipe clamp

what do you think? does the above work for fork outers & rear swingarm? (rather than drill and tap nylon fixing?)

[F5 Dave]

can work on forks, but not ideal as can slip if not really done up heaps. square section ok as holds better, but have to consider what shape slider is so doesn't twist.

[hal20308]

Thanks this is good stuff, FXR brake lever is a problem.

Yep they are a meaty bit of steel alright. A rainy Easter Sunday with the drill, a 10mm chopping board and the bench grinder resulted in these.
Drilled a tapped two M6 holes on the brake lever and (for those with the bling aftermarket pegs that unbolt) block of nylon that covers the peg hinge area when the peg is vertical........a 15mm hole for the peg stub and then countersink with a 25mm wood borer so the peg sits inside.

[F5 Dave]

now that's an interesting idea. Does that now clear the hinge from the ground?

[Pumba]

One of the comments on the other thread prompted me on this. I know my bike is not perfect and will be getting additional protection, but this photo sequence from the weekend at Tokoroa shows what can happen in an off and what bits can come into contact with the track surface.

Hope Chris doesn't mind me nicking the photos, or Glen for me highlighting his little off.


Yeah I did, sorry for the large sizes in the middle of the thread. There are more photos of the event in my photo thread, click here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/153656-Chris-Bucket-photo-thread-Bandwidth-warning). There will also be a video coming soon

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1397.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1398.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1399.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1400.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1401.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1402.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1403.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1404.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1405.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1406.jpg

http://christophercain.cc/b/d/tokgp13/IMG_1407.jpg

[chrisc]

You're more than welcome to spread my photos around mate.

Here's a good idea:
http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/9975094.jpg?225http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/181877.jpg?281http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/1416922.jpg?243

[quallman1234]

You're more than welcome to spread my photos around mate.

Here's a good idea:
http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/9975094.jpg?225http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/181877.jpg?281http://www.sp125racing.com/uploads/1/5/3/7/15371050/1416922.jpg?243

I have these's on my RS125, they work really really well and have saved me heaps of damage over the years! Make sure to radius the edges!

[F5 Dave]

We need a mod to sticky this thread. Who is the bucket'y Mod these days?

[Pumba]

Think Gav is. Pretty sure I PMed him for the sticky I got out up.

[codgyoleracer]

l'v always thought solid nilon pegs are better but was told years ago to remove them ! dont know were there heads at! . some sand paper or rubber stuck to them and there all good

I would tend to agree, the solid pegs main advantage is that it keeps a lot of other shit on the bike (thats made of metal) off the track surface as it creates a safety gap between bike and track. on that note you may want to consider specifying a minimum length that safety sliders at specific locations need to be (unless this already exists ?)

[F5 Dave]

Someone had told me non folding pegs were now MNZ requirement.

Just had a look at the regs & I can't see that. Anyone have a better eye for that, or is it not so?

[Henk]

The only thing I can find on foot pegs is below. I thought it used to say that they had to fold. Not the case now unless there is another rule in there somewhere that addresses it

10.5 All machines competing on tracks or courses other than approved Speedways or like tracks must be fitted with securely mounted footrests which when in the riding position do not touch the ground with the machine at a less angle than 45 degrees from the vertical.

[F5 Dave]

ok so maybe we open the channels with the kart tracks & ask if they would allow solid nylon ended pegs?


Can a mod sticky this thread yet?

[Henk]

The kart folks don't want us harking up their lovely Tarmac, I'm not sure that we need to get them involved in the technical side of how we do it. If it makes you feel any better I know of a couple of bikes up here with either solid nylon pegs or solid Ali with nylon ends.

[speedpro]

Solid pegs would be a good way of getting around protecting the gear lever which I'm having trouble with on my sons bike and Dave's

[hal20308]

now that's an interesting idea. Does that now clear the hinge from the ground?

Mmmmm. It would do if the brake or gear pedals on a standard FXR chassis didn't ground first.......
See attached pic of a very simple crash simulation (!). The front axle slider, handlebar end, peg end and brake lever hit the deck, the rear swing arm slider is still clear of the ground. So presuming a straightforward low-side and the brake lever gives way (bends), the additional nylon should keep the hinge clear of the ground.
We're putting the same pegs and nylon on Tim's TZR/Loncin so we'll see how this looks when its done.

[Kendog]

Mmmmm. It would do if the brake or gear pedals on a standard FXR chassis didn't ground first.......
See attached pic of a very simple crash simulation (!). The front axle slider, handlebar end, peg end and brake lever hit the deck, the rear swing arm slider is still clear of the ground. So presuming a straightforward low-side and the brake lever gives way (bends), the additional nylon should keep the hinge clear of the ground.
We're putting the same pegs and nylon on Tim's TZR/Loncin so we'll see how this looks when its done.
Won't the nut on the top of the peg be in the way of your foot?

[hal20308]

Won't the nut on the top of the peg be in the way of your foot?

Nope - had the peg-end nylons that way for a couple of seasons now.

[javawocky]

Attention K-Mart Shoppers, Skateboard wheels are only $2 dollars a pair! This is a clearance item, so be quick while. Only at K-Mart Albany, and thanks for shopping at K-Mart


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-IgxVa3tRDPk/UYIfCgKfG3I/AAAAAAAABzM/AFQDO6B1JSE/w676-h507/2013-05-02+19.50.31.jpg

[davebullet]

Ok guys, I'd appreciate some critique. Are these acceptable protection for a kart track (namely wellington - Fishy?)

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282822&d=1368606194
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282821&d=1368606166
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282820&d=1368606143
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282819&d=1368606120
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282818&d=1368606094
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282817&d=1368606066
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=282823&d=1368606217

[F5 Dave]

its looking pretty good. Just what does the folded up pegs expose? The brake & gear lever ends; are they going to cause a problem?

[davebullet]

its looking pretty good. Just what does the folded up pegs expose? The brake & gear lever ends; are they going to cause a problem?

cheers - koba pointed that out too.

the pegs don't fold all the way. they are "mechanically limited" like me really... only to about 60 degrees. I proved this lying the bike down on each side.

of course if the foot pegs snap - then possibly the levers will ground. I'd like to drill/ replace them with something track friendly but strong... kitchen chopping boards are not good enough really.

[F5 Dave]

Fish will grab & try twist anything with hose clamps on to see if they move. Best you try the same first.

[koba]

I took some photo's of a local bike after a highside on turn 2 at Kaitoke.

I'm not trying to be a cock here, just being forward with constructive and up front advice.
We need to be onto this if we want to keep racing at cool tracks.

There are a few lessons we can all learn from this crash:

This was a pretty bag crash for a bucket race on a Kart track, see how it has flipped all the way over.
In this case the tail piece has done a good job but have a think about this, think about what is under it and how it can load up, how will your bike fare if you don't have a big tailpiece like this?
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283704&d=1370425728"/>

More flip damage.
It's time to start making caps for forks, I've made a set from an a piece of plastic pipe, easy as.
This one was minor but it can get really ugly for you, the forks or your body on uncovered adjustable units.
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283705&d=1370425730"/>

Pegs break, think about what will touch next...
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283706&d=1370425731"/>

We have to start looking at the undersides here, mine could be better. I'm starting to play with forming plastic around here.
At the very least round it off with a file, I'll try get a pic of some more in this area up when I get a chance.
Also note the foot levers should really be better protected.
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283707&d=1370425732"/>

Look closely, the bungs on the swing-arm look good but that axle end has still scraped.
They need to go further back or on the axle itself.
I've seen an innovative mounting to the adjuster plate on the end of the swingarm on the bike that mossy built, that might work quite well but haven't seen 'test results' yet.
Again, I will try for a pic of this too.
If I was modifying this I would leave the current bung in place too, no harm in backup!
<img src="http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=283708&d=1370425733"/>

[F5 Dave]

. . .

I'm trying to be a cock here, just being forward with constructive and up front advice.
. ..
Sorry you are or you aren't?

No man that is totally valid stuff of how protection can fail, or more aptly, be bypassed.

[koba]

Sorry you are or you aren't?

No man that is totally valid stuff of how protection can fail, or more aptly, be bypassed.

Edited accordingly... :facepalm:

[CameronRGV]

Hi there,

I'm 17 and getting into motorcycle restoring, building, converting riding and racing. For a final year school project i'm converting a RGV250 into a Bucket Racer and am looking for some support! I need an engine and a few other bits and pieces. It would be amazing if anyone could help out! I have a pledge me campaign currently running! 16 days left!!! https://www.pledgeme.co.nz/1203

All help is greatly appreciated! Rewards include being remembered by Me writing your name on the Gas tank!!!

If your interested follow the link, message me or follow my page :)

Thanks a million!!!

[NZ Moto4 Racing]

Version two can be found here:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1CJGSIQKUqiDC6FRRCgzdV2UFMbjzKPQizEVJA5QSgJ0/edit?usp=sharing

[F5 Dave]

Good work man, much betterer.