Save yaself some $ on engine oil

[brp]

Use Calibra Diesel Oil (Made by Caltext for supercheap) 10L for $60 bucks any day of the week

Clutch action never been so smooth - way better than the Valvoline motorbike oil I was
a muppet buying (Valvoline that brings in Repsol - not willing to soley back own product)


1000's of K's later, still no sign of of any abnormal wear on micron stainless filter.

Says in Honda manual to use an engine oil to the specifications (SF SJ etc) and a high detergent oil,
nothing about motorbike specific oil - no better high detergent oil than Diesel oil. (Says also to use 80/90
gearbox oil on air filter and chain - works great and 10th of the price of spray on foam.)

"Motorbike oil a scam" "Come give me lots of $ sucker" - countless riders posting on the net saying they
have used Diesel oil in their bikes for years.

The big BS blurb by oil companies is cause the gearbox and engine oil is shared - the gearbox has
a hi share factor on the oil lololl my terrano has no cambelt - gear driven and so are countless
front wheel drive cars ......

[Fast Eddie]

Interesting post...

not sure if I'm ready to chuck diesel oil into any of the litre sports bikes yet.. but food for thought anyway.

There are certain additives for the clutch so it doesn't slip in m/cycle oils I am lead to believe.

I have read online of people using normal car oils etc as well, some claim clutch slippage

[AllanB]

Your bike, put what you like in it mate, I'll still to my hellishly expensive motorcycle specific, full synthetic thanks.

You may be interested to note that when running semi-synthetics there was a noticable difference in gearbox action between brands - to the point where the last lot of Castrol semi-synth was drained within 1,000kms and replaced will full synthetic (from a different maker) - been on full synth since for each change and the tranny shifting remains excellent between oil changes unlike semi-synth which deteriated as the kms went on.

I'll add that I only do about 6,000 kms a year so I change the oil every Christmas. On a annual change at full rrp it is $2 a week for a top line oil. Better yet Repco has 20-30% off sales a couple of times a year and they stock Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil.


But back to your orig post I know of many on US forums who run diesel oils in their bikes and there are many posts from apparent oil experts supplying data to back up your post.

Then there is the 'how to run in your new bike' site that proclaims that you must thrash the living shit out of it from day one ......... here you go:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Smifffy]

a. This argument would be more convincing if the OP was written in english.

b. Drain all the oil, run dry. Benefit of additional weight saving.

[caspernz]

Mmmmm, this might be from the same line of thinking as the riders that moved to the dark side, as in running a car tyre on the rear.

Mind you, if the OP is riding a Milwaukee tractor then both approaches might have some merit :clap::banana::drool:

[Woodman]

Read the back of most of penrites "car" petrol oils and it says also for motorcycles with wet clutches. I run fully synthetic 10w70 car oil in mine and it works good, no clutch slippage, gear changes all good, no worries.

[slofox]

Do you sell that stuff brp?

[onearmedbandit]

The big BS blurb by oil companies is cause the gearbox and engine oil is shared - the gearbox has
a hi share factor on the oil lololl my terrano has no cambelt - gear driven and so are countless
front wheel drive cars ......

Cam chain driven I'm guessing you're actually meaning. Which is different to gear driven.

[Richard Mc F]

Diesel oil is usually rated to be used in transmissions and wet cluches, ok on lower reving egines but probably lacks the anti foaming additives I would like to see in any engine going north of 7000rpm to 8000rpm.

I used it in my bevel drive ducati for 45000km (may it rise like the phoenix from the back yard one day)

M' 'onda on the other hand I use semi synthetic boike oil

Meh it matters little :oi-grr:

[Road kill]

I've also used diesel oil in a number of my bikes after being advised to use it by a guy that raced classics and port classics an swore by it.
But with my latest bike which the manufacturer says USE HIGH QUALITY SYNTHETIC OIL OR ELSE "I think I will. :yes:

[G4L4XY]

"nek minnit" the bike garages have an influx from people using such oil in their bikes...rather not be one of them

[PeeJay]

Diesel oil is usually rated to be used in transmissions and wet cluches, ok on lower reving egines but probably lacks the anti foaming additives I would like to see in any engine going north of 7000rpm to 8000rpm.

I used it in my bevel drive ducati for 45000km (may it rise like the phoenix from the back yard one day)

M' 'onda on the other hand I use semi synthetic boike oil

Meh it matters little :oi-grr:

How often did you change the oil in yr Ducati?

[willytheekid]

...Oh goody!...an Oil thread :corn: (should be interesting to say the least)

[Flip]

Most motor oils have dual petrol and diesel ratings. I am a great fan of mixed fleet lubes myself, have been for years. They usually come in bulk and do not have any fancy packaging and I would rather pay for good oil than some expensive bottle and some flash holographic label.

Oils in recent years (after SG) have been formulated with low metals so that they do not pollute the cats on modern European motors. The metals are part of the detergent and anti friction additives, just like soap that is made of fat and potassium or a hydrocarbon and a metal, the detergents are made up of a metal like zinc and a oil-hydrocarbon.

Diesel motors need a good strong detergent-ant wear package. Diesel motors pollute their oils, and after too longer service the oils can become acidic. Some of the heavy diesel oils are called high ash (strong detergent) and are used in the biggest diesel boat motors. These motors often run on MDO and Bunker oil which is a crappy smelly black diesel fuel. Medium ash oils are usually big truck oils. They are called ash because it is the metal oxides that are left after all the oil has been burnt from a sample of oil in a lab.

Bikes tend to kill their oils because the oils run in gear boxes and the gear boxes are hard or chop up the VI (Viscosity Index) additive so the oil thins with use. Thats why bikes usually-always change gear better with new oil. The VI additive is the gorilla snot that is used to make a straight 20W weight oil behave like a 50 weight oil at high temperature ie 20W50. The VI additives are big stringy molecules and are not very shear stable so break down under mechanical work. Synthetic oils tend to have a better VI than mineral oils natually and have less VI additives, so last longer (hold their viscosity when hot longer-better) espcially in bike motors.

All motor oils are lab tested to meet API (and other) standards. These tests are done using commercially available new automotive motors, the only test I know for bike oils is the JASO-MA, which is a friction test for suitability for wet clutches.

Keep in mind also that Mobil1 the flagship (im)Mobil lube has dual S and C (Service station and Commercial) petrol and diesel ratings. Who would logically run a "racing" quality oil in a dirty old diesel motor, or put dirty old diesel oil in a racing motor?

[manxkiwi]

b. Drain all the oil, run dry. Benefit of additional weight saving.

Have heard of TT riders dropping a litre of oil out for such 'weight saving'! Sounds well dodgy, but I have heard this from more than one reputable source.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Then there is the 'how to run in your new bike' site that proclaims that you must thrash the living shit out of it from day one ......... here you go:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've been telling my customers that for years. Because I've been in the industry for so long, most of my bikes have been new. I've given them all the same run in procedure. I've beaten the living fuck out of them from day one, and anyone that's ridden any of my bikes always say what jets they are and what have I done to it. The answers always the same.

[leathel]

I read this article the other day re oils....some interesting reading


http://www.post610.org/truth_about_motorcycle_oils.htm

[Fergus]

Some actual research in the area:

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

[leathel]

Some actual research in the area:

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

Another good article with good info..... again Automotive oils look to do the job

[Richard Mc F]

How often did you change the oil in yr Ducati?

3000km the filtration systen is a simple by pass, my thoughts were high detergent levels to keep contaminants in suspension and regular change outs.

The fact I was running a heavy equipment repair shop with unlimited Delo 400 was nothing to do with it :cool:

[Voltaire]

Its been discussed at length on some classic BMW Norton and Ducati forums I frequent .

These are low reving motors but they are air cooled and run hotter, opinion seems divided on being a cheapskate and beating the system and taking a risk with the life blood of

your expensive to repair motorcycle.

My concern these days is the lack of ZDDP in car oil due to the increase of roller cam followers.

I have 20 litres of diesel oil in my garage unopened from a CAT generator if anyone wants to buy it...... Shell Rumuella or summit like that.:lol:

[Hoon]

I buy my oil in bulk from Segedins (20L pails) for $50 or something and use it in all the family cars and motorcycles. Buying motorcycle or any 4-5L container of oil is a rip off.

[imdying]

Shell Rumuella or summit like that.:lol:Shell Rotella? The SV650 guys have been raving about that shite for years, they absolutely love it, FWIW.

[Motu]

Rimula, Rotella is what the US gets, and is JASO-MA rated. Rimula is pretty close to the same, but not quite. I'd put it in anything but an Airhead.

[AllanB]

USA Hornet (919) forums love the Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. Branded as Shell Helix Ultra here for the cars.

Different oil for motorcycles in their full synth range .......... just saying ......

[Woodman]

I buy my oil in bulk from Segedins (20L pails) for $50 or something and use it in all the family cars and motorcycles. Buying motorcycle or any 4-5L container of oil is a rip off.

Its not a rip off. A ripoff is when you are mislead, but every shop I have been into that sells oil has the prices marked and it is the individuals choice whether to buy it or not. Oil is always cheaper the larger quantity you buy.

[Paul in NZ]

I've always been a fan of Penrite oil... I used to use HPR30 in both bikes but on advice of Penrite themselves switched to the diesel or LPG version when they introduced friction modifiers that upset the wet clutch in the Triumph.

I've not noticed any issues and compared to a modern design its getting used very hard.

[Voltaire]

Rimula, Rotella is what the US gets, and is JASO-MA rated. Rimula is pretty close to the same, but not quite. I'd put it in anything but an Airhead.


Why not...... your just saying that coz I have 20 litres being used as a seat.:wacko:

[brp]

Cam chain driven I'm guessing you're actually meaning. Which is different to gear driven.

Yeah know its different was highlighting my terrano has no cam chain but is gear driven

Yep Rotella the big one used in the states in bikes

On the XR oil changes meant to be every 1000 km if competition riding - stretch it to 1500 km - cost me both arms and legs putting
unnecessary synthetic in ....

Few years back on a Wednesday night ride we had an oil technician join us, this "cat" was so up with the play that mobil flies him
backwards and forwards from Russia where he is a consultant to a Russian oil refinery. His words were on oil "It does not matter if you run a cheap oil or an expensive one - the main thing is to change it often - its the carbon collected in the oil that causes the wear - you have heard of diamond carbon cutting tools ?"

Semi synthetics are the biggest scam off all - contain very little or no esters


Here's "The Oil" on it all http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

[Motu]

Why not...... your just saying that coz I have 20 litres being used as a seat.:wacko:

Just because of the 20-50 thing, I'm pretty that they will work perfectly fine on 15-40 (of course I have used 15-40 in mine before and it's still running), but who am I to go against all the airhead Guru's.

[AllanB]

Interesting article. I have noticed that the Mobil 1 4T motorcycle specific synthetic I use is just as expensive as the Mobil 1 car oil. Maybe it is exactly the same oil!

[avgas]

I usually run the bike on diesel oil as a hot flush for about a tank between changes.

Due to other commitments the fzzzzrrr has still got it in it 6 months later........and runs fine above 9000 (to answer a previous comment).

I would be expecting some clutch slippage soon due to the detergents. But I imagine I will change the oil before then.

As for motorbike oil. I find its hit and miss. I still lust for Motul but have been using other fine car oils last few years (5w50 Visco and the like).

[gatch]

I tipped out all the oil in my bikes and just run dry graphite power. With a little air compressor to blow it around the engine.

That way I don't need an oil filter and I don't have to buy gaskets when I pull engine covers off.

[Motu]

Graphite is not good for ball and roller bearings - it's ok if you have a separate gearbox, but if your gearbox runs in engine oil you better rethink that strategy.

[AllanB]

My turn-signal oil is looking to need a change.

[Geeen]

My turn-signal oil is looking to need a change.

Make sure you get the stuff rated for the rear brake light.

[pete-blen]

Graphite is not good for ball and roller bearings - it's ok if you have a separate gearbox, but if your gearbox runs in engine oil you better rethink that strategy.


:2thumbsup:clap:..... give that man a beer...

A ball race works because of friction... Its friction that makes the
balls/rollers roll... remove it with a friction reduceing additive &
you increase the chance of ball/roller skid...

In fact you increase the amount of skid..as it's already there..
2 circular races of diffrent dia's... no ball/roller can roll around both at
the same time with out a some skid... so the last thing you
want to do is increase it.....

[F5 Dave]

. . . is just as expensive as the Mobil 1 car oil. . .

I know a funny story about that & at least in NZ, partially who's fault that is , but I'll keep hush, he's already given his opinion here.

[DrDarkMatter]

Your bike, put what you like in it mate, I'll still to my hellishly expensive motorcycle specific, full synthetic thanks.

You may be interested to note that when running semi-synthetics there was a noticable difference in gearbox action between brands - to the point where the last lot of Castrol semi-synth was drained within 1,000kms and replaced will full synthetic (from a different maker) - been on full synth since for each change and the tranny shifting remains excellent between oil changes unlike semi-synth which deteriated as the kms went on.

I'll add that I only do about 6,000 kms a year so I change the oil every Christmas. On a annual change at full rrp it is $2 a week for a top line oil. Better yet Repco has 20-30% off sales a couple of times a year and they stock Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil.


But back to your orig post I know of many on US forums who run diesel oils in their bikes and there are many posts from apparent oil experts supplying data to back up your post.

Then there is the 'how to run in your new bike' site that proclaims that you must thrash the living shit out of it from day one ......... here you go:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

yup, full Synth AMSOIL for me, everytiime, never let me down.

[TimeOut]

yup, full Synth AMSOIL for me, everytiime, never let me down.

Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter

[Owl]

Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter

Interesting. Just changed from Mobil 1 due to horrible gearbox. Loved the 15W-50, but this new 10W-40 Mobil 1 just doesn't do it for me. Giving Penrite 5W-50 a go, but too early to form an opinion yet.

[Drew]

Most motor oils have dual petrol and diesel ratings....

Burn this rooster! He seems informed on the subject, and can present said information clearly and articulately. MUTHAFUGGA MUST BE A WITCH!

[MIXONE]

Yep Mobil 1 4t for me, since going to it from Castrol Power 1 gearbox is so much sweeter

Bought some today and will do an oil change tomorrow.I will report back with my opinion on it.

[Flip]

I have just started using the V2 big twin Mobil 1 after 80,000km on HD Syn 3. I will let you know what I think in another 80,000 km.

[Drew]

I have just started using the V2 big twin Mobil 1 after 80,000km on HD Syn 3. I will let you know what I think in another 80,000 km.

I'm no expert, but don't Harley's require mineral oil to avoid flat spotting the bearing rollers?

[Flip]

Na, they dont like the thin modern oils, I think the mobil1 V2 is a 20w50 one.