Tricky project - 1983 honda vf750s

[Larksea]

I kinda wish I had chosen something a bit more simple as a first project bike but hey, I have 18months till I get my full license due to the horrid restricted wait so no rush.

got this old think cheap, apparently it runs but i've not fired it up yet. Looks pretty worn out but on close inspection to me it actually looks pretty good. Will post a pick at some point.

I think my main jobs on this bike are going to be

complete carb service & compression check, want to avoid a full rebuild on the engine if I can I mean I've never done it before.

cleanup and repaint of the frame which will basically require removing everything - clean and paint the tank to but that's easy.

replace all the gauges and hand controls with new parts.

Focusing on that last part. is this a pipe dream? I mean the old console is... Old, big, ugly, odometer doesn't work. Ignition switch is missing, has a ignition zip locked to the side/turn signal. I wanna basically rip it all off and install a standard part that I think will fit well with the bike and also put in all new handlebar controls.

Any feedback there?

Also going to have to make/replace the side covers somehow and refinish the plastic cover around the back/tail light of the bike.

[FJRider]

I kinda wish I had chosen something a bit more simple as a first project bike but hey, I have 18months till I get my full license due to the horrid restricted wait so no rush.

got this old think cheap, apparently it runs but i've not fired it up yet. Looks pretty worn out but on close inspection to me it actually looks pretty good. Will post a pick at some point.

I think my main jobs on this bike are going to be

complete carb service & compression check, want to avoid a full rebuild on the engine if I can I mean I've never done it before.

cleanup and repaint of the frame which will basically require removing everything - clean and paint the tank to but that's easy.

replace all the gauges and hand controls with new parts.

Focusing on that last part. is this a pipe dream? I mean the old console is... Old, big, ugly, odometer doesn't work. Ignition switch is missing, has a ignition zip locked to the side/turn signal. I wanna basically rip it all off and install a standard part that I think will fit well with the bike and also put in all new handlebar controls.

Any feedback there?

Also going to have to make/replace the side covers somehow and refinish the plastic cover around the back/tail light of the bike.

Get the bike running and LEGAL (then put on hold) before making ANY modifications or paint. Get a qualified Motorcycle mechanic to look at it and find out what WILL need done to GET legal AND running. This will cost ... but will save YOU time and energy (and money) for things that are known to be needed.

And "Find" a workshop manual for your model. Hard copy is always best.

[ducatilover]

Pics are mandatory!

Switches/gauges are simple enough to replace/swap. You can get a heap of digital ones from fleabay and other overseas sites (they're too expensive here)
As FJ says, get a manual, it'll help you a lot

[Larksea]

I've got a Haynes workshop/owners manual for Honda vf45/65 sabre/magna coming in the post from the UK :)

yeah I think that's a good idea, getting it legal I believe would require

front bakes: they basically came in a box with the bike!
Odometer: the digital on it has just doesn't work
indicator: one isn't working, may just be a bulb, also the amber cover is not a standard one and is a cowboy bolt on.

The odometer is the issue. I mean given it's gone I think I basically need to replace the entire console, I mean it usually comes as part of the entire console or with a speedo.

[ducatilover]

Check for dry solder joints on the circuit board for the odo

[FJRider]

I've got a Haynes workshop/owners manual for Honda vf45/65 sabre/magna coming in the post from the UK :)

If it covers ALL parts of YOUR (specific) model ... good.



The odometer is the issue. I mean given it's gone I think I basically need to replace the entire console, I mean it usually comes as part of the entire console or with a speedo.

It only needs a "Working" speedometer to be legal. NOT an accurate one. Think temporary (borrowed ??) fitting to gain legality.

And ... Odometers record distance traveled ... NOT speed. And as such ... not required for WoF.

[Larksea]

this is the book, looks pretty good to me

http://www.haynes.com/products/?searchType=vehicleApplicationSearch2&searchEnd=yes&sfID1=&sfID2=&sfID3=&year=1983&make=Honda&model=750+Sabre&x=6&y=9


i do have one pic, just chucked in the garage took the seat off, not a good pic, looks worse than it is.

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all I've done since is pull the tank, side panels and front Gard off and given it a bit of a clean up

Can also the the back tire is is goneburger, I think it was used for a few burnouts in it's past life. Front tyre looks good but yeah, the front brakes are in a cardboard box with what I think are the air intake/filter covers

also a pain that the ignition switch/key are not original so they dont match the seat/helmet-lock/tank lock and also there is another key lock on a metal box on this left side which I'm not sure about...

[FJRider]

also a pain that the ignition switch/key are not original so they dont match the seat/helmet-lock/tank lock and also there is another key lock on a metal box on this left side which I'm not sure about...

Which key fits the fuel tank .. ??? (seat helmet lock are usually original item key accessed) Two keys to such are expected in older machines. I have seen some with three.

Post pic of said (unknown) metal box.

[Larksea]

tank lock is ripped out can just open it with a screwdriver or other key, same with the seat/helmet holder lock. have a feeling finding some sort of replacement fuel cap is going to be a pain because it's kinda square shaped flip cap and wont be an easy OEM part.

will post some more pics, including that mystery box. A lot of the mystery stuff will come clear when my book arrives but that could be a week or so away. I'm keen to get my hands dirty.

see I look at something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-Speedometer-Tachometer-for-Honda-VTR250-VTR-250-98-04-/180870522067?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1cb924d3&vxp=mtr

I would think it wouldn't be too hard to rip off what's there and get this or something like it going?

[FJRider]

tank lock is ripped out can just open it with a screwdriver or other key, same with the seat/helmet holder lock. have a feeling finding some sort of replacement fuel cap is going to be a pain because it's kinda square shaped flip cap and wont be an easy OEM part.

There are plenty of those models around (built). Such parts should be available from a Bike wrecker somewhere in NZ. Google NZ Motorcycle wreckers ... or check the ones in your area. Most will have an E.mail address. A half decent locksmith can change locks. (no big deal really)


will post some more pics, including that mystery box. A lot of the mystery stuff will come clear when my book arrives but that could be a week or so away. I'm keen to get my hands dirty.



Pic's are good, and answer many questions.

[Larksea]

pics

this pic has the mystery box with key slot. green light and rubber bung for plug of some sort

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others:

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[Laava]

You should do well with this one.
Something to consider though before you start.
Decide whether you are going to do a restoration or a customised project. The reason I say that is it will make a difference when you go to sell it. If it has many parts missing or badly damaged, then you won't have much to lose but if it is all there and just needs cosmetic, then you are probably better keeping it as close to std as possible.
I recently did a project and even tho it is still close to stock, the finish on the ali frame was impossible to replicate due to damage and a fucknuckle drilling holes.(not me)
So you can also customise without removing brackets from frame etc that would destroy the original state of it.
Looking at the photos, it appears the switch blocks are complete and working? Personally, I would be keeping these as they are good quality, as good or better than any aftermarket stuff and if you are careful they can be painted up to look like new. Shame the odo is shot but also fixable if need be.
But anyway, have fun and consider buying a sand blasting cabinet for all those little bits, ali and steel, that need some loving. I can get an 18" wheel in mine and it cost two fiddy.

[dangerous]

Cool bike, always liked em from new... as for ya green light n bung, duno the rest looks reasonbly tidy quick spruce up n ride it.

[Larksea]

You should do well with this one.
Something to consider though before you start.
Decide whether you are going to do a restoration or a customised project. The reason I say that is it will make a difference when you go to sell it. If it has many parts missing or badly damaged, then you won't have much to lose but if it is all there and just needs cosmetic, then you are probably better keeping it as close to std as possible.
I recently did a project and even tho it is still close to stock, the finish on the ali frame was impossible to replicate due to damage and a fucknuckle drilling holes.(not me)
So you can also customise without removing brackets from frame etc that would destroy the original state of it.
Looking at the photos, it appears the switch blocks are complete and working? Personally, I would be keeping these as they are good quality, as good or better than any aftermarket stuff and if you are careful they can be painted up to look like new. Shame the odo is shot but also fixable if need be.
But anyway, have fun and consider buying a sand blasting cabinet for all those little bits, ali and steel, that need some loving. I can get an 18" wheel in mine and it cost two fiddy.

I take your point, I was going to just buy a whole bunch of new stuff and try stick it on make it look newer, including switch boxes, refinishing them is a good idea. Any tips on sharpening up old plastic parts would be great :)

But your right, I think for now I will try get the current kit working. The clutch handle needs replacing and obviously need new grips and I'm also clueless yet on what to do with the plastic side covers. When the bike arrived the had holes drilled in the top and used plastic ties around the frame to hold them on. And the right hand one is not even a Honda part I think it's for a GSXR or something.

The orange lines, well they will go, will peel them off and try figure out how to refinish it. Will restore the Honda branding plates, they're old and worn but on close inspection they are metal and really nice quality

[ducatilover]

My first port of call for parts would be econohonda, I have always had really good service from them.

Laava says get a sand blasting cabinet, he's on to it with that. They rule. I need one

[Laava]

pics

this pic has the mystery box with key slot. green light and rubber bung for plug of some sort

I reckon it is an alarm, but it looks like an OE fitting so should show up in the manual or wiring diagram.

We should have a sweepstake, fiver says I am on to it!

[BMWST?]

they were fkn awful when new ,not sure they would have much of a following The later sportier brother however one of the nicest bikes EVER.Good luck with yer build tho mate

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[carburator]

I reckon it is an alarm, but it looks like an OE fitting so should show up in the manual or wiring diagram.

We should have a sweepstake, fiver says I am on to it!

fiver says its the fuse box or one of them?

I have refinished plastic control boxes before with a soft mop on the grinder
and lots of brasso as a polisihing agent..

[Larksea]

well I actually tried to turn it over, the start button does not work but I shorted the starter wires. unfortunately it just clicks continuously. wondered if the battery was flat so put it on the charger and it's actually fully charged so that's strike 2

I've seen the econohonda site before but their 2009 parts list put me off contacting them

alarm? that's interesting

[Larksea]

they were fkn awful when new ,not sure they would have much of a following The later sportier brother however one of the nicest bikes EVER.Good luck with yer build tho mate

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I dont disagree, It's not a classic and I actually think this model with the orange stripes is fugly

but, I did find this pic of what looks like pretty much the exact same model in black with gold trim which does look pretty cool, and is what I think I am going to aim to replicate.

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[Laava]

fiver says its the fuse box or one of them?

I have refinished plastic control boxes before with a soft mop on the grinder
and lots of brasso as a polisihing agent..

Multi fuse box setup?

I painted mine on the gixxer, mainly cos I had to sand at one corner to remove a grind mark. I used very fine wet and dry to finish it and then bought some plastic primer and satin finish black paint.
None of which is special, it all boils down to patience really but heres a couple of essentials in my prep. Warm the rattle cans slightly in a jug of hot water. But don,t let it get more than luke warm. Also, heat the item with heat gun. This makes a huge difference to getting a good finish IMO. Metal parts heated to almost too hot to hold, and plastic, obviously, a lot less.

I reckon that is a styley bike, in fact my friend has one, a runner with reg on hold, that is cosmetically in way worse cond than yours. They are talking about rebuilding it but it is beyond being worth a full resto cos of rust and corrosion.

[dangerous]

they were fkn awful when new ,not sure they would have much of a following The later sportier brother however one of the nicest bikes EVER.Good luck with yer build tho mateawfull? as in a personal preferance to there looks or mecanical? The Saber never had any issues what so ever, the R as we all should know had oil feed issues to the head, causing cam failer...


I dont disagree, It's not a classic and I actually think this model with the orange stripes is fugly

but, I did find this pic of what looks like pretty much the exact same model in black with gold trim which does look pretty cool, and is what I think I am going to aim to replicate.
They are bloody classics LOL awesome machinery, I dont recall seeing the strip painted model new in NZ and NZ new were not called Sabers. Some call the TX650 a classic, yet it was less relible that a Triumph of the day...

[Larksea]

awfull? as in a personal preferance to there looks or mecanical? The Saber never had any issues what so ever, the R as we all should know had oil feed issues to the head, causing cam failer...


They are bloody classics LOL awesome machinery, I dont recall seeing the strip painted model new in NZ and NZ new were not called Sabers. Some call the TX650 a classic, yet it was less relible that a Triumph of the day...


haha yeah your right, I think it's a classic. I think it will look really good in gloss black with some chrome and the seat re-covered.

I should have done more research before I got it on how this model has been in terms of it's mechanics and reliability.

bit of a gamble when I got it with some pretty poor pics on a trademe sale. But from what I can tell it's in pretty good shape and the rust on it is superficial at worst where paint has come off. It's solid as a rock.

well it turns out the battery wasn't charged properly after all. After a while sitting on the charger it came off charged and started charging properly like it needed it so fingers crossed it will turnover after a charge and I don't need to buy a new starter motor. or trace that problem. I'd like to confirm it starts and runs like I was lead to believe it would before moving on to anything major.

The front brakes that came in a box with it are a mess though, hopefully the book I got covers how they fit together and operate, they will be a project in themselves. Not easy controlling it just moving it around without brakes.

pulled the odometer off and the display is actually missing from inside it. The more I look at it the more I'm back to thinking I should just try replace the whole top console with a new part. I think it would be too hard to find the same parts in good condition for a price that would make it worth keeping it original.

i was in the tool shop the other day and did look at a granite blaster? though I think a setup like that would be too much for my little garage. maybe if I could hire one or something like that? I was thinking of just getting wire brushes and polishing attachments for power drill and an angle grinder to strip back the tank and frame and clean up the wheels and other parts or is that just a silly idea? Will take some practice and more time but as I said I'm a year and a half away from being able to ride it on the road so no rush.

Thanks for the replies guys.

[Larksea]

actually if you read the above article it says the bike has a built in security cable and alarm system.

so that's what it will be, the rubber covered plug hole will be for the alarm cable

all bets are off I guess.

[Katman]

As Laava says, the bike will only ever be worth anything if it's kept as original as possible.

As BMWST says, they were never a wonderful bike from new.

Replacing parts that don't need replacing is likely to be throwing good money away on bad.

If you're not intending to do any motor work, forget the compression test. Sometimes ignorance can truly be bliss.

[Murray]

I've seen the econohonda site before but their 2009 parts list put me off contacting them


Don't let it put you off they have been absolutely great with my CB750 and GB400TT and Malcolm is super knowledgable and helpful.

[Larksea]

Don't let it put you off they have been absolutely great with my CB750 and GB400TT and Malcolm is super knowledgable and helpful.

yeah I emailed them for some prices and part list for the bike and Malcolm emailed me back. seemed very helpful.

but with what I've found over the last couple of days I've decided that i'm definitely not aiming to use all OEM parts and keep it original, that's just going to restrict me too much and cost a lot more.

I mean 1 stock used turn signal for the bike will cost me $70 from econo and I can get a whole set of 4 custom part for less than US$15 on the net.

Naaaa this an old unloved bike, heck if had been looked after and was in good condition I'd get it standard parts but it's a hunk of junk. Restoring it close to original is a pipe dream.

my main goal now is to get it working reliable and safe then get it looking ok using whatever parts I can get rather than originals.

also thinking I need to make inspecting the cam a priority, if it has that issue it may not even be worth working on I dunno.

[BMWST?]

awfull? as in a personal preferance to there looks or mecanical? The Saber never had any issues what so ever, the R as we all should know had oil feed issues to the head, causing cam failer...


They are bloody classics LOL awesome machinery, I dont recall seeing the strip painted model new in NZ and NZ new were not called Sabers. Some call the TX650 a classic, yet it was less relible that a Triumph of the day...

i had a flatmate who was a Honda nut.I vcant remeber what he had before(may hve beena Cb900.He bought a vf750s it was a horrible handling bike.Vey soon after he bought the R ,a much much nicer experience IN MY OPINION.yours may differ!

[unstuck]

Nice find. Cant wait until I get my VF back on the road.Had an S version once but did not like the way it felt, but it may of just been that particular bike, twas pretty rough. Much prefer my F, awesome fun bike to ride. Good luck with your project.:niceone::Punk:

[actungbaby]

Any feedback there?

What fj said i got 4 bikes of trademe vt 500 honda vt 250 xr 200 x 2 vfr 750

only second xr 200 and vfr 750 engines where good to go mind you adverised as going when got them

if you get cheap bike usually a good reason , u got think this is such great bike why person selling it

That said the vt 500 is half fixed know needs new cam shaft 90.00 parts omly cost replaced haed gasket was blown .

to be far alot people tm dont understand whats needed or whats wrong guy broght vt 500 wasint biker

nice guy though

unless u can fix the engine yorself i dont think worth the cost ditto i think vt 250 never turn a wheeel the bearings go in them or crank shaft bearings.

the vf 750s is old shaft drive custom job nice bikes in the day where first version honda brought out

then the sports version version vf 750 f . guy at pammy hospital got going condition working one rides ever day .

but they wear cams out this was fixed via honda drilling extra oil holes , and think might be mistaken

was carried as service fix here . u might be lucky and engine good but going by its condition

And my eperience u find old bike like this A havent had oil changed for donkeys years . the head gaskets be gone through sitting there rustying away , thats min damage they had .

the carbs will be gummed up with crap .

if engine poked forget it cost rebuild be 2000 plus not worth when have to fix paint as well buy parts.

I spent nz 2000.00 on my vfr 750 and thats got good motor thats just fixing forks discs etc

and thats just in second parts of ebay . buying from england states guy on here wanted nz

1,200 just for scond hand forks rip of i got mine freight included for 600.00 nz

But i had to fit everthing myself

if you need my help i help with advice

as novice u think engine turns it okay not the case really well its one good sign but not full story

so in brief get somone check top end bottom end u can do that by taking bottom top engine covers of after draining engine oil .

oH okay quick check drain the oil get ince cream contaner at least 4 or 2 2litre ones

Drain the oil it be crap anyway if like vt 500 and vt 250 u can feel water in it thats head gaskets gone fixable enough , pour oil into another twon contaners if using two to collect it.

then check bottom each one for metal shavings if see brass colour sign that crank shaft bears shells

are worn down .. u may get lucky buy second good crankshat of ebay dunno havent seen on

sen them for my bike 1990 vfr 750 .

if oil looks good it always have bit metal if very small thats just normal but if its alot and oil is black as coal not good.

if its got light brownpatchs that chould be water.. on vt 250 i felt oil over my hand and chould littlery feel the cold water its got diffrent feel to oil

not trying rain your parade or be negtive just dont making mistakes i made my self

engine good , get it ruuning before do anything u wont even need new igntion if wire it direct get advice on that.

id say thats already done my vt 500 doesint even have key just switch former owner was beach bike.wel two onwers before me

[actungbaby]

yeah I emailed them for some prices and part list for the bike and Malcolm emailed me back. seemed very helpful.

but with what I've found over the last couple of days I've decided that i'm definitely not aiming to use all OEM parts and keep it original, that's just going to restrict me too much and cost a lot more.

I mean 1 stock used turn signal for the bike will cost me $70 from econo and I can get a whole set of 4 custom part for less than US$15 on the net.

Naaaa this an old unloved bike, heck if had been looked after and was in good condition I'd get it standard parts but it's a hunk of junk. Restoring it close to original is a pipe dream.

my main goal now is to get it working reliable and safe then get it looking ok using whatever parts I can get rather than originals.

also thinking I need to make inspecting the cam a priority, if it has that issue it may not even be worth working on I dunno.

Malcom good guy dealt with him for years i geeting cam for vt 500 from him 90.00 very good price

didto guy from honda dealer gave me advice to see malcom for parts for older hondas

check ebay get them get them there get them there , get qoute from honda dealer here

and malcom usually sell u if got them second hand parts half the cost or orginals as a guide.

got xr 200 suspension caps half the cost which very happy with.

[Larksea]

after more work trying to get it started i've found the front two plugs are not firing and I've ruled out the plugs and the cables, resistance test on the coil suggests it's ok. getting 3.8 ohm

worth checking something else or do I need another coil?

[actungbaby]

well I actually tried to turn it over, the start button does not work but I shorted the starter wires. unfortunately it just clicks continuously. wondered if the battery was flat so put it on the charger and it's actually fully charged so that's strike 2

I've seen the econohonda site before but their 2009 parts list put me off contacting them

alarm? that's interesting

Just ring him that list is old yes if its clicking need new battery, what i do is jump it of a car or

another bike no point getting new battery if bike going sit there becase u got save up for parts get engine going

sounds like ur on to mate good .. sure u can do the bike take your time and going things 3 or 4 times make sure things are right. u got a book for it might have one in chch library

again ebay sell them and some on tm also brought both places am xpert cause had to be

in old honda mind u am old model myself.

just keep asking adivice from anyone u can i got car places anywhere

all best dude hope goldern for you

[actungbaby]

If it covers ALL parts of YOUR (specific) model ... good.




It only needs a "Working" speedometer to be legal. NOT an accurate one. Think temporary (borrowed ??) fitting to gain legality.

And ... Odometers record distance traveled ... NOT speed. And as such ... not required for WoF.

great advice do everthing as min to get it legal and then when paases u can decide after few rides

what u prepared to spend and how long u keep it for if you did

[actungbaby]

this is the book, looks pretty good to me

http://www.haynes.com/products/?searchType=vehicleApplicationSearch2&searchEnd=yes&sfID1=&sfID2=&sfID3=&year=1983&make=Honda&model=750+Sabre&x=6&y=9


i do have one pic, just chucked in the garage took the seat off, not a good pic, looks worse than it is.

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all I've done since is pull the tank, side panels and front Gard off and given it a bit of a clean up

Can also the the back tire is is goneburger, I think it was used for a few burnouts in it's past life. Front tyre looks good but yeah, the front brakes are in a cardboard box with what I think are the air intake/filter covers

also a pain that the ignition switch/key are not original so they dont match the seat/helmet-lock/tank lock and also there is another key lock on a metal box on this left side which I'm not sure about...

gee alot better than i thought be looks good looks very promising

[FJRider]

after more work trying to get it started i've found the front two plugs are not firing and I've ruled out the plugs and the cables, resistance test on the coil suggests it's ok. getting 3.8 ohm

worth checking something else or do I need another coil?

The front two plugs should be wired from two different coils. Usually plugs 1 & 3 ... 2 & 4 have supply from their own coil. Both front plugs not getting spark suggests other issues.

But you can swap coils and see if the problem follows the change.

[actungbaby]

My first port of call for parts would be econohonda, I have always had really good service from them.

Laava says get a sand blasting cabinet, he's on to it with that. They rule. I need one

how much are they mate to buy i mean

[actungbaby]

I dont disagree, It's not a classic and I actually think this model with the orange stripes is fugly

but, I did find this pic of what looks like pretty much the exact same model in black with gold trim which does look pretty cool, and is what I think I am going to aim to replicate.

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Was called sabre in usa was state the art at the time being v four water cooled

I actually like the look of them guy here bike looks mean think wants sell t to at some stage

i have taken pics of it i drive there so i can get some more if you want engine looks cool

[actungbaby]

awfull? as in a personal preferance to there looks or mecanical? The Saber never had any issues what so ever, the R as we all should know had oil feed issues to the head, causing cam failer...


They are bloody classics LOL awesome machinery, I dont recall seeing the strip painted model new in NZ and NZ new were not called Sabers. Some call the TX650 a classic, yet it was less relible that a Triumph of the day...

maybe usa import my vfr 750 is mind u speedo be in miles not kms

[actungbaby]

As Laava says, the bike will only ever be worth anything if it's kept as original as possible.

As BMWST says, they were never a wonderful bike from new.

Replacing parts that don't need replacing is likely to be throwing good money away on bad.

If you're not intending to do any motor work, forget the compression test. Sometimes ignorance can truly be bliss.

yes so true if runs well dont worry just get fresh oil in before start her and change bikes coolant

fater u know its ruuning okay first things did on mine make sure get good anti freeze with anti rust

some have bikes ones seem bit over priced sure car ones bee fine too mix it in container of water

[Larksea]

I don't really care or I'm not thinking about resale value or keeping it original

I want to get it started and running and over time get it running really well or as best I can.

And aesthetically create something I personally think looks good.

Goal #1 is to learn from the experience. I've learned a tone already.

[Larksea]

the numbers are starting to piss me off

check the ignition coils and I get 3.5 ohm primary and 14.5k ohms secondary

Haynes manual I got int the mail today saays 2.8 pri and 13.6-15.5 sec

found a copy of the page when googling:

http://xn--80azbq.xn--p1ai/failo/magna/ignition.pdf

does the 3.5 ohms I'm getting mean they are screwed? or is it ok? I have a feeling it's ok I dont know how much to trust this haynes book.

[Larksea]

ok now I find this:

http://grimcyclesalvage.com/product_info.php/1983-honda-cb550-gl1200-vf750-cb700-ignition-coil-p-2390#pic1

basically the exact same part I have and it's 3.5 ohms

for now I'm going to assume mine are good.

need to next figure out where the connectors on the coils go back to, haven't been able to confirm anything with the multimeter

[ducatilover]

Your coil wiring will go to the cdi, but will be going through the main loom.
Check for power across the terminals when cranking :niceone:

[Larksea]

yip that's what I thought but I could not get a connection to anything at the CDI with the multimeter

thinking about taking the wraps off the loom and tracing the cables all the way back, but will hold off for now. Working on some other stuff for now.

I pulled the carbs out and was surprised to find they are as clean as a nuns cooch. Just some surface rust from lack of use. Was a bit worried I didn't find any fuel in them as I had put fuel in the tank and turned the fuel on and turned it over a fair bit trying to start it. Should I have to pre-fill the carburetor? Or should they basically full up when turning the fuel on? Maybe I need to do more of a clean.

[Laava]

If the tap is vacuum operated you will need to set it to prime to fill the fuel bowls. Otherwise you have a blockage. Or have you sorted it now?

[ducatilover]

I'd be using a wiring diagram and checking power at any point possible, to and from the cdi.
Also checking the ignition pick up gap, resistance and signal.

If the fuel tap has a prime position, switch it to that.
It may (being a Honda) just be vacuum operated only, one way to get around that is to suck on the vacuum tube to the tap to open the diaphragm

[Larksea]

got it guys thanks for the replies again.

I had started to trace wiring one at a time but them found a wiring diagram at the back of my haynes manual. I had stopped using it since I found it had some incorrect info but this wiring diagram looks ok and will save me heaps of time.

and yes it seems the fuel is vacuum operated, I was wondering what the small pipe that runs from the fuel switch to the nearby cylinder was!

Carbs are still off and it's not been started, i've mostly been looking at the wiring and doing some cosmetic work. The front mud guard has some damage and spots of surface rust. I've actually managed to make some big improvements on it. Still have some small dents on it, i'm going to try and make a wooden spire with a curved top that I can use as like an anvil to hammer them and try flatten the small dents. The Chrome is holding out really well.

still quite keen on checking the cam before I go too much further once I figure out how to get to it. :) though I am comforted by the fact this bike has obviously done a lot of KMs and if the cam was a problem it would have been junked years ago.

on removing the carbs I've found that one of the rubber mounts that go between the carb and cylinders is split. may be able to repair but I think I may just try get replacements, repaired rubber work probably doesn't have much of a lifespan. Need to check the others more closely as well.

Had some parts arrive. New mufflers, new console/speedo, indicators and some fork mounted side headlight mounts.

I found the original console had some internal damage and cowboy repair work so i'm going to chuck it. Try and salvage the warning box from inside it because I may need that with the new console - maybe hide it under the tank.

Been looking around the web for a nice headlight after looking at dozens of them I found the perfect one but the guy doesn't ship to NZ! Going to send the guy a friendly email and see if I can't persuade him. Or maybe you guys have a tip on where to get a good legal 7inch headlight? There's a lot of shit ones on ebay/amazon/aliexpress

[Larksea]

found a frame break on the weekend :(

lucky its just a pipe that runs up to the back to support he break light and passenger

any tips on that? I guess it should be just a quick job for someone who can weld.

[ducatilover]

Attack it with a welder :niceone: