Show us your lathe?

[Flip]

Show us your lathe of mill?

I have a wee Milford ML7 with the milling attachment and every tool and attachment you can get. Over the last 5 or so years I can only think of one thing I have sent away because it was too big to do at home. Which was a new timing key way in a vintage crankshaft.

I have the face and driving plates, fixed and traveling stedies, a 4 and 3 jaw chuck and a minitature model makers 3 jaw and the milling attachment. About the only thing I don't have is the quick change tool post holder.

[unstuck]

Sounds like a nice piece of machinery flip. A lathe is something I really would like in my shed, we had a great old one from the Mataura paper mill, but it was too big for where I am now.:niceone:

[Pumba]

283584


Ok iso the gif is a bit small but you get the idea

A lathe or drill mill is on the wish list but I cant see it happening anytime soon, unless I stumble across an absolute bargin, and magically find enough space.

[unstuck]

Well this is one very similar to the one we got from the paper mill.283585

[AllanB]

My old man has a mint one. I remember it coming home when I was 10 or something - it arrived on the back of a truck and I clearly remember him saying 'that's your university fund right there son'. Maybe I'll get that fund back one day ......

[slowpoke]

Show us your lathe? Hell No!!! Mine is anatomically correct and fuckin' tiny..........

[speights_bud]

If anyone wants a fucking heavy table saw give me a yell, mate picked it up from a workshop closing down tender with the intention of just flicking it for scrap. It's far too nice for that, in fact it's really a very nice piece of kit. One of the oldies but very well engineered. I don't have pics at the moment but she's 3 phase and takes up a full size pallet. few hundred kilo's worth of steel in it. Haven't run it but it should all go. Will consider a swap+cash for a good 4pole 1.5HP single phase electric motor to re-fit the drill press he also got...

Can get it to a trucking company no probs.

[Yow Ling]

283584


Ok iso the gif is a bit small but you get the idea



Heres mine, I dont really need 2 but just didnt have the heart to get rid of the little one

283590283591

[Flip]

283601

Here is my trusty old Myford.

It's amazing what has been made with one of these wee lathes.

A couple more pics added.

[leathel]

I have a couple of old lathes.... found some picks of the older bigger one

Making some indicator mounts

283639

283640

an older pic

283641

When I purchased it
283642

[Hoon]

A little off topic, but I want to buy a lathe and learn to "lathe" things. What's the best way to get started?

Me, I'm your typical sheddie who wants to expand his ability to make things as required. I'm confident with mechanical, electrical, spraypainting, woodwork and design but turning (and welding) are tools I'd like to add to my toolbox. I know almost nothing about metalwork.

What size lathe should I buy to get started (only small jobs i.e. nuts/bolts, spacers, couplings etc)?

What is a good resource to self-learn from?

[bogan]

A little off topic, but I want to buy a lathe and learn to "lathe" things. What's the best way to get started?

Me, I'm your typical sheddie who wants to expand his ability to make things as required. I'm confident with mechanical, electrical, spraypainting, woodwork and design but turning (and welding) are tools I'd like to add to my toolbox. I know almost nothing about metalwork.

What size lathe should I buy to get started (only small jobs i.e. nuts/bolts, spacers, couplings etc)?

What is a good resource to self-learn from?

Step 1: Terminology, you 'turn' things with a lathe, not 'lathe' them :bleh:
Step 2: Make a list of what you would want to do with it, length and diameter determine the main dimensions, spindle bore can also be a dimension worth looking for.
Step 3: Check bank balance and price lists
Step 4: Cross off most of step 2's list
Step 5: Repeat step 3
Step 6: Keep an eye out for second hand bargains...

Learning, go down to the op shop for some student clothes, turn up at the uni and bluff your way into getting a lesson for some 'uni project' work...

[carburator]

A little off topic, but I want to buy a lathe and learn to "lathe" things. What's the best way to get started?

Me, I'm your typical sheddie who wants to expand his ability to make things as required. I'm confident with mechanical, electrical, spraypainting, woodwork and design but turning (and welding) are tools I'd like to add to my toolbox. I know almost nothing about metalwork.

What size lathe should I buy to get started (only small jobs i.e. nuts/bolts, spacers, couplings etc)?

What is a good resource to self-learn from?

bogan has covered a number of the issues, set a realistic budget and have realistic terms
of the size and accuracy you are going to turn to.. most old flogged out machines are only
good for spacers and a number of them certainly are going to be shit for threading..

machineryhouse has some little ones for what I call good pricing, why pay 3K for some
old shit when you can buy brand new.

( mind you was in a workshop recently and they had no idea how to old school thread ...)

spending a day with someone who drives a lathe for a living will teach you more than classes
or utube for that matter.. there are reason's why I machine stuff in a certain order fit, finish
and final sizing..

[pete-blen]

A little off topic, but I want to buy a lathe and learn to "lathe" things. What's the best way to get started?

Me, I'm your typical sheddie who wants to expand his ability to make things as required. I'm confident with mechanical, electrical, spraypainting, woodwork and design but turning (and welding) are tools I'd like to add to my toolbox. I know almost nothing about metalwork.

What size lathe should I buy to get started (only small jobs i.e. nuts/bolts, spacers, couplings etc)?

What is a good resource to self-learn from?


Bed length "betwreen centres"... 99% of your machneing is done with in 200/300mm of the chuck....
swing... Dia that can be turned...
SPINDAL BORE... dia of the hole though the head stock..this can have a bearing on how longer bed
length "between centres" is required... most long shafts tend to be machined on the ends..So the bigger the
spindal bore the better...If the bore is small then a long peice has to be held in chuck & tail stock long bed
is required.. BUT if the bore is small yer can't put the shaft in to put a centre in it for the tail stock/live centre..

My lathe has a 40mm bore but only 600mm between centres.. i have machined 1300mm x 38m shafts in it..
the shafts twice the centre length but because of the bore size it can be done...

SO EVERYTHING COMES BACK TO THE SIZE OF THE SPINDAL BORE...

[Yow Ling]

A little off topic, but I want to buy a lathe and learn to "lathe" things. What's the best way to get started?

Me, I'm your typical sheddie who wants to expand his ability to make things as required. I'm confident with mechanical, electrical, spraypainting, woodwork and design but turning (and welding) are tools I'd like to add to my toolbox. I know almost nothing about metalwork.

What size lathe should I buy to get started (only small jobs i.e. nuts/bolts, spacers, couplings etc)?

What is a good resource to self-learn from?

a very good book to get is "How to run a lathe" from southbend
even a copy from the 1950s is good, not much has changed for your average backyarder , that and find somebody who uses a lathe to at least show you the safety basics. don't underestimate just how dangerous this machine can be. that said they are the coolest thing you can ever have in the shed. I feel pity for people who don't have one.

[Flip]

++1 for the Southbend book.

As a first lathe you wont go wrong with a Myford like this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/lathes-accessories/auction-600320113.htm

This was all Burt Munro used to have and he did heaps with his.

[Ocean1]

BUT if the bore is small yer can't put the shaft in to put a centre in it for the tail stock/live centre..

When I were a nipper a live centre was one that went in the headstock, not simply a rotating tailstock centre.

Terminology seems to have changed over time...


SO EVERYTHING COMES BACK TO THE SIZE OF THE SPINDAL BORE...

Correct.

I used to work on a Leblond that was nominally an 800mm swing, so not a baby, but the drive was via an internal ring gear behind the drive flange and it had massive main bearings, the headstock bore was just over 250mm. Used to get a lot of work just because of that, even though there were bigger machines locally.

[avgas]

( mind you was in a workshop recently and they had no idea how to old school thread ...)
There is a new way? I am assuming that is fundangled CNC thing? Rather than Tap and Dies?

Hoon a really cool thing to do if you have a small amount of money and want to play is little wood lathes - go for about $300. But other than that I would do what the others say - go watch someone do it, ask if you can have a go while they watch. On the older stuff its not a difficult as it sounds. I wouldn't know where to begin on the new rigs.......the newest lathe I ever worked on was made in 1962. The oldest was was from 45.

PS: women who know how to use a sewing machine well are actually bloody good on a lathe as well. I was quite shocked to see how quickly they picked it up in comparison to some of the guys.

[speights_bud]

There is a new way? I am assuming that is fundangled CNC thing? Rather than Tap and Dies?

Dies? now that's the REALLY old way :corn: Nothing like screw cutting a thread up to a shoulder at speed to get yer panties in a twist!

[Ocean1]

Nothing like screw cutting a thread up to a shoulder at speed to get yer panties in a twist!

Run the lathe in reverse with the tool upside down. :niceone: And run the backlash out by hand before you wind the tool in.

Or just roll the last couple of turns over by hand...

[pete-blen]

Heres my 2 toys...

320 swing / 600centres / 40mm bore..
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/1104/ssa41635.jpg

gear head mill
http://imageshack.us/a/img52/9770/ssa41759.jpg

makeing fork valves
http://imageshack.us/a/img32/7183/ssa41921.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img812/2962/ssa41924.jpg

[leathel]

Nice gear pb

A tad more modern than my gear :P

Although my mill is only a few years old its a Chinese shitter, but does most of what I need :)

[jonbuoy]

I keep looking at chinese/myfords but I can only think of $200's of stuff to make on a $800+ rig - clearly I need to think harder.

[F5 Dave]

Well you've seen me crappy old Sheldon Phil, might post a pic when I'm not on the pad. Couldn't be without it, just today making up spacers for the clutch springs. I still send stuff out for tricky stuff but 80% I can do there and then, that's the best part.

[edit] crap photo, glad I had 3 phase at home

[granstar]

Got one of those, just have a look in the man cave...trots off into the darkness....returns...yup found it ... It's a ZYTO because that's what it has says it is ...



283841

Was gifted by my clever father in law model engineer who used this for years before claiming a well earned Myford .

Used it occasionally to make wee bits and pieces for drum kits and motorcycles, not too proficient with it mainly as i give all the big jobs to said FIL :hug:.

[sketch]

Heres my old beast. Dunno how to use it but its good fun when the boys are round to put the chuck key in and fire her up, edit..... im lying its in a workshop im working in at the moment and thought id chuck it in for kick and giggles

[Yow Ling]

Heres my old beast. Dunno how to use it but its good fun when the boys are round to put the chuck key in and fire her up, edit..... im lying its in a workshop im working in at the moment and thought id chuck it in for kick and giggles

has it got an allergy to oil?

[F5 Dave]

Drier than a nun's habit.



you thought I was going to say Cunt you dirty bstds.

[GSF]

I have just started a new job in a machine shop about a month ago, I had never used a lathe prior but always wanted to learn. Shit it's fun and I never realised how versatile they can be.
Being very green though I'm pretty bloody careful. My workshop manager has a really impressive scar across his knuckles that he did on a lathe long time ago.

We have an old Colchester Bantam and several Myford Super 7s. We also have a separate machine shop full of really interesting jewelry lathes, Sixis, Posalux and Carl Benzinger machines. Most of which are at least 40+ years old. Awesome stuff!

[unstuck]

I have just started a new job in a machine shop about a month ago, I had never used a lathe prior but always wanted to learn. Shit it's fun and I never realised how versatile they can be.
Being very green though I'm pretty bloody careful. My workshop manager has a really impressive scar across his knuckles that he did on a lathe long time ago.

We have an old Colchester Bantam and several Myford Super 7s. We also have a separate machine shop full of really interesting jewelry lathes, Sixis, Posalux and Carl Benzinger machines. Most of which are at least 40+ years old. Awesome stuff!

Sounds like the Ideal man cave to me.:Punk:

[F5 Dave]

Yeah read about a young chap with serious wrist injury from some swarf

[Ocean1]

Yeah read about a young chap with serious wrist injury from some swarf

Where I did my time we had a monster planning machine. Table was about 8ft x 5 ft and stroked about 8 ft. I was finish facing some 8" wide stainless flat bar with a tool that had lots of top rake and about 3 thou curve on the face. The clapper box indexed about half an inch per stroke and the swarf was about 5/8" wide and about 5 thou thick, tapering to nothing at the edges. It was a curled up mess of 8 ft razor blade at the end of the bed.

There was a cleaner there, not quite the full quid but he earned his keep. I told him to leave the mess and after lunch I'd get a fork or something to pick it up with. I came back 20 min later to find lots of blood. I followed the trail outside to find him in a mess, he'd picked up a piece and it'd taken the skin and muscle off the inside of all of his fingers.

I hadn't realised how compromised he was in that environment. Jeez I felt like shit.

[TLDV8]

Show us your lathe of mill?

2000 Chinese lathe,1984 model Rong Fu RF30 mill/drill purchased in 1985.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Cover/C3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C3.jpg"/></a>

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[F5 Dave]

We have a wrongfoo mill drill i bought 10 years back at work think rebadged chevpac to make it sound US. Saved me buying one for home.

[carburator]

I have just started a new job in a machine shop about a month ago, I had never used a lathe prior but always wanted to learn. Shit it's fun and I never realised how versatile they can be.
Being very green though I'm pretty bloody careful. My workshop manager has a really impressive scar across his knuckles that he did on a lathe long time ago.

We have an old Colchester Bantam and several Myford Super 7s. We also have a separate machine shop full of really interesting jewelry lathes, Sixis, Posalux and Carl Benzinger machines. Most of which are at least 40+ years old. Awesome stuff!

yea the ones with a scars or missing fingers or crunched hands...
you can tell someone not to do something but sometimes they don't listen...

[Ocean1]

yea the ones with a scars or missing fingers or crunched hands...
you can tell someone not to do something but sometimes they don't listen...

Custom and practice. It used to be standard practice to change speeds on a machine tool by flipping the flat belt from pulley to pulley. That's how most of the missing fingers were lost.

[Ocean1]

2000 Chinese lathe,1984 model Rong Fu RF30 mill/drill purchased in 1985.


Nice work.

[unstuck]

2000 Chinese lathe,1984 model Rong Fu RF30 mill/drill purchased in 1985

Very nice.:2thumbsup

[geoffm]

Talking of lathes - i am thinking of selling mine. It is a 195-somthing Colchester Chipmaster
It has a PDL Extravert VFD replacing the original Kobb variator variable speed drive (was an expensive piece of kit)
New in box 4 jaw chuck (never used). the 3 jaw is a bit worn - I was going to grind the jaws but never got around toit. has steadys and faceplate.
It has been a good machine,but I have inherited my late father in laws lathe.
Being British, it leaks oil.

[speights_bud]

My Grandfather in-law has given me his lathe which I cant pick up until 3 weeks time. It's currently at his sons house completely covered in junk and he cant get me a photo without a lot of digging....

He has emailed me the following:


Hi , more lathe details

Its made by NIGATA Engineering Co Ltd, Tokyo, Japan

MODEL E MBL-30
TENSION 380V Hz
SERIEL No 5207

My problem is google isn't helping me find anything other than CNC machines so far and apparently its NIIGATA not NIGATA?
Niigata is a place name in Japan so I wonder if he has just read that off of it. I had a MAZAK lathe at my old work with YAMAZAKI on the bed as that is where it was cast.

Anyone know anything about these?

[pete376403]

My Grandfather in-law has given me his lathe which I cant pick up until 3 weeks time. It's currently at his sons house completely covered in junk and he cant get me a photo without a lot of digging....

He has emailed me the following:



My problem is google isn't helping me find anything other than CNC machines so far and apparently its NIIGATA not NIGATA?
Niigata is a place name in Japan so I wonder if he has just read that off of it. I had a MAZAK lathe at my old work with YAMAZAKI on the bed as that is where it was cast.

Anyone know anything about these?

From "tension =380V" I'm guessing it might be three phase.

[speights_bud]

From "tension =380V" I'm guessing it might be three phase.

Yes Def 3-phase, reading up on converting it to run on single phase at the moment, actually quite interesting stuff and doesnt need to be expensive either.

This ol fella does a good job of explaining it for home use type of application. 2 parts to the video.

Link to the book he refers to online as a .pdf file: (look for chapter3)
http://static.4shared.com/pdfjs/generic/web/viewer.html?file=http%3A%2F%2Fdc406.4shared.com%2F img%2Fe9sa7gjO%2Fs11%2F12d1241c018%2FWorkshop_Prac tice_Series_16_-_.pdf%3Fsbsr%3D3c74c936db040a1d0926c53cd82f94777cc 2598dc81abcb1#page=33

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6UcDM3hm0XM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/43eAEeyTbs8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Yow Ling]

Yes Def 3-phase, reading up on converting it to run on single phase at the moment, actually quite interesting stuff and doesnt need to be expensive either.

This ol fella does a good job of explaining it for home use type of application. 2 parts to the video.

Link to the book he refers to online as a .pdf file: (look for chapter3)
http://static.4shared.com/pdfjs/generic/web/viewer.html?file=http%3A%2F%2Fdc406.4shared.com%2F img%2Fe9sa7gjO%2Fs11%2F12d1241c018%2FWorkshop_Prac tice_Series_16_-_.pdf%3Fsbsr%3D3c74c936db040a1d0926c53cd82f94777cc 2598dc81abcb1#page=33

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/6UcDM3hm0XM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/43eAEeyTbs8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

It would be a lot easier to just buy a Variable frequency drive, single phase in 3 phase out. or fit a single phase motor

[speights_bud]

It would be a lot easier to just buy a Variable frequency drive, single phase in 3 phase out. or fit a single phase motor

Links?? Prices?? I'm open to ideas, but single income, mortgage, new baby etc im pretty poor right now.... cheaper favors easier right now...

[bogan]

Links?? Prices?? I'm open to ideas, but single income, mortgage, new baby etc im pretty poor right now.... cheaper favors easier right now...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Phase-Converters-/41952/i.html

That list has a few different options, I'd say dollar per kW your phase converters would be a better option than a VFD. I have the same or very similar VFD as listed half way down that page for my cnc mill, but I've never got around to integrating it with the controller so it is a bit of a rigmarole to start and stop; I'd assume the phase converter would be an easier out of the box solution.

[speights_bud]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Phase-Converters-/41952/i.html

That list has a few different options, I'd say dollar per kW your phase converters would be a better option than a VFD. I have the same or very similar VFD as listed half way down that page for my cnc mill, but I've never got around to integrating it with the controller so it is a bit of a rigmarole to start and stop; I'd assume the phase converter would be an easier out of the box solution.

Cheers for that, beats anything I've found in NZ so far! Dunno what I was thinking really...

[Ocean1]

Links?? Prices?? I'm open to ideas, but single income, mortgage, new baby etc im pretty poor right now.... cheaper favors easier right now...

If you've got a small 3ph machine and only 1ph available a VFD is usually the cheapest option, the variable speed thing is a bonus. I often install small 3ph powered equipment and just feed it 1ph anyway, it's cheaper than paying for the 3ph cables and switchgear.

I've just installed a small conveyor that fits that description, using one of these: http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_1.html

Not cheap compared to lunch but not much considering the possible value of the machine itself in your case. Think the 1hp job cost me $550.

[Ocean1]

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Phase-Converters-/41952/i.html

That list has a few different options, I'd say dollar per kW your phase converters would be a better option than a VFD. I have the same or very similar VFD as listed half way down that page for my cnc mill, but I've never got around to integrating it with the controller so it is a bit of a rigmarole to start and stop; I'd assume the phase converter would be an easier out of the box solution.

Good prices.

[speights_bud]

If you've got a small 3ph machine and only 1ph available a VFD is usually the cheapest option, the variable speed thing is a bonus. I often install small 3ph powered equipment and just feed it 1ph anyway, it's cheaper than paying for the 3ph cables and switchgear.

I've just installed a small conveyor that fits that description, using one of these: http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_1.html

Not cheap compared to lunch but not much considering the possible value of the machine itself in your case. Think the 1hp job cost me $550.

I'm told its got a 2HP motor on it. Just itching to get hold of it and see what the damn thing is at this stage! it could be a clapped out old thing that doesn't turn anything accurate for all I know. But good to have options for whatever it turns out to be.

[Ocean1]

I'm told its got a 2HP motor on it. Just itching to get hold of it and see what the damn thing is at this stage! it could be a clapped out old thing that doesn't turn anything accurate for all I know. But good to have options for whatever it turns out to be.

Don't recognise the brand but if it's Japanese, under 50 years old and hasn't been abused it'll be good.

[Yow Ling]

OK you are probably a bit more strapped for cash than I thought
Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP54mmgv4mM
thie is called a rotary phase converter, a bit like the vid you posted but it uses the motor with the capacitor to generate the 3rd phase.
If i didn't have 3 phase or enough money for a vfd this is what I would do

3 phase motors are cheap or free, scrounge around

[Akzle]

didn't realise we had one of theze threads. it's big, old, 6 speed belt fed plus back gear and has two inches through the head....

[NighthawkNZ]

I only have woodworking stuff in my basement...

http://www.wackywoodworks.co.nz/

[Mo NZ]

2000 Chinese lathe,1984 model Rong Fu RF30 mill/drill purchased in 1985.



I know SFA about Turning.
Years ago I worked as a lackey with some Engineers and I was always impressed what those guys could make from a block of metal.
I look at your work and its up there for sure.

I have picked up
Buy that book.
Possibly a newer machine would be the right way to go.
Big bore is good.
Be careful.

[speights_bud]

So I finally got some (Half Arse)photos sent through, its just been broken down for me to pick up.

Yes its old,
Yes its green,
No it doesnt have powerfeed or a gearbox?

I'm presuming at this stage speed might be controlled by high and low motor settings?

Still better than the one I dont have, anything remotely decent I'll probably still do at work but who knows until I pick it up this weekend.

300551
300552

[Akzle]

So I finally got some (Half Arse)photos sent through, its just been broken down for me to pick up.

Yes its old,
Yes its green,
No it doesnt have powerfeed or a gearbox?

I'm presuming at this stage speed might be controlled by high and low motor settings?

Still better than the one I dont have, anything remotely decent I'll probably still do at work but who knows until I pick it up this weekend.

300551
300552

no gearbox is good. No powerfeed is fucking tedious.

[speights_bud]

no gearbox is good. No powerfeed is fucking tedious.

Might have to Jimmy Something up for the Long axis at least. Fit a Bronze Nut/block & Leadscrew then attach a seperate a drive unit

[Mo NZ]

Nothing like a new bit of kit for the shed.
Maybee a set of pulleys to set the speed.
Watch those fingers!

[Akzle]

Might have to Jimmy Something up for the Long/X axis at least. Fit a Bronze Nut/block & Leadscrew then attach a seperate a drive unit

i'd drive it off the arse end of the headstock through pinions, but that's just me.

look up david gingery's books for some ideas. bastard built his own lathe, beginning to end. he has a good idea about casting a split nut for the apron...

[pete376403]

this months edition of "The Shed" has an article about an NZ designed and made three phase motor starter www.fastec.co.nz

[Akzle]

this months edition of "The Shed" has an article about an NZ designed and made three phase motor starter www.fastec.co.nz

420v caps are fucking expensive.

[Ocean1]

No it doesnt have gearbox?

Just because you can see both ends of the headstock main shaft doesn't mean it's joined in the middle, dude, there's hope yet.

And if you do require the services of a gearbox you could do a lot worse than a 1ph fed VFD driving a cheap as chips 3ph motor driving a 5 speed scooter gearbox which drives the headstock.

A mate has a workshop not connected to the grid. He has a monster DSG along one wall with a belt heading through the wall to the back wheel of a Massy Fergusson 135 buried in concrete.

[The Reibz]

this months edition of "The Shed" has an article about an NZ designed and made three phase motor starter www.fastec.co.nz

My mum gets me a sub for that every xmas.
Can't find a price for that unit but I imagine it would be fucken expensive

[speights_bud]

Just because you can see both ends of the headstock main shaft doesn't mean it's joined in the middle, dude, there's hope yet.

And if you do require the services of a gearbox you could do a lot worse than a 1ph fed VFD driving a cheap as chips 3ph motor driving a 5 speed scooter gearbox which drives the headstock.

A mate has a workshop not connected to the grid. He has a monster DSG along one wall with a belt heading through the wall to the back wheel of a Massy Fergusson 135 buried in concrete.

Got an uncle who's a long time sparkie at a big site around here who is hunting out a VFD for me, He's pretty sure there is a half doz stashed at his work somewhere. Now that would be choice, fingers crossed.

It had never occurred to me to use a stand alone/Bike gearbox...

[Tazz]

We've got 5 or so kicking aboot.

This get's a fair bit of use. 3 phase converter hides behind it, which wasn't cheap but means you can move the gear without having to faff around getting 3 phase hooked up (also avoid the extra line charges)
300588

Wee bits on top are some pearl processing odds and sods the boss is putting together for the latest experiment...
300589

...which are being used on this one.
You can see the motor for the modified watchmakers lathes that get used daily behind it.
300590

[speights_bud]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/12bf0d0c3b3f8a46e0d981e7c52b5ec8.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/06/18bc7ad4f6d63a71a740e5dd6057fcb3.jpg

Well I have returned from welly wit the lathe +extras. Lots of stuff, emphasis on stuff, big score was the vfd from uncle in law and shielded cables etc to run it all. Some micrometers which have seen better days and some huge callipers. Also a Moore and Wright bore micrometer set which must have cost a small fortune to have as personal tools. All imperial gear of course. Waiting for some extra muscle to arrive to help unload the lathe itself

[paturoa]

Doe anyone have a (cheap) small metal lathe they want to sell?

I've lost count over the years when I could have used one.

[Akzle]

Doe anyone have a (cheap) small metal lathe they want to sell?

I've lost count over the years when I could have used one.

define "small"
jewellers lathe? or 900 bed?

they come up on trademe with surprising regularity for less than a grand. stick with non-chinese shit, i recommend belt fed over gearhead, insert tooling over steel, and at VERY least power long feed, if not cross. i also recommend 3phase over single, but that's just because i hug trees and shit.

[paturoa]

define "small"
jewellers lathe? or 900 bed?

they come up on trademe with surprising regularity for less than a grand. stick with non-chinese shit, i recommend belt fed over gearhead, insert tooling over steel, and at VERY least power long feed, if not cross. i also recommend 3phase over single, but that's just because i hug trees and shit.

Not jewellers. Around 500 centres would be good.

[pete-blen]

Not jewellers. Around 500 centres would be good.

The first spec to look at is the Dia of the spindal bore...
90% of your machineing will be done with in 200/300mm of the chuck...
My lathe is only 600 centres but has a 40mm bore..
the bore dia govens so much of what you can do...
If you do want to machine a long shaft between centres you need to beable
to get it though the chuck to put a centre in it for the live centre..
more often than not you are going to be machineing the ends of a shft not the centre
so yer need to beable to get it though the bore...

this infictation about long bed lengths is a non issue really...

[paturoa]

this infictation about long bed lengths is a non issue really...

Length envy?

Edit" mmmmm http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/lathes-accessories/auction-781863116.htm

[bogan]

Length envy?

Edit" mmmmm http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/lathes-accessories/auction-781863116.htm

He's right though, 28mm bore isn't too bad though, can do a lot with 25mm round bar.

[pete-blen]

If yer budget can stretch this far...

600 centres , 320 swing , 38mm bore , power feeds in both directions...

https://www.google.co.nz/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC4QFjAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.machineryhouse.co.nz%2FL141&ei=DIoeVO3_K5H48QXs5IEQ&usg=AFQjCNHRUFGAXp8ksDNRsKm-8IBlzyXXTg&sig2=GOngTr5EU74w77P8x-S0jA

[Flip]

I have never used a cheepie chineese hoby lathe, I suppose they would be OK. I have a ML7 Myford. I got it with every tool any engineer could want. Twice now I have taken work away to my work (Im the eng mgr) because it was too big for the wee lathe. Apart from this its been brillant accurate and a pleasure to use.

302839

[bogan]

I got it with every tool any engineer could want.

Have the DRO, quick change toolpost, and selectable drive/threading gearboxes since fallen off then?

[Flip]

Yes and no. I have a full set of lay shaft gears which is all I need at home. I also have the both the milling attachments, 2 x 3 jaw chucks, 4 jaw chuck, fixed and traveling stedies, face plate, driving plates and some gear cutting tools.

[pete-blen]

There is a great range of insert turning tools on Aliexpress
at dam cheap prises...

Not tryed the inserts... the tool holders are more than ok...

[Akzle]

There is a great range of insert turning tools on Alliexspress

tool holders are more than ok...


No. They arent.

[bogan]

There is a great range of insert turning tools on Alliexspress
at dam cheap prises...

Not tryed the inserts... the tool holders are more than ok...

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=lathe+tools&catId=&initiative_id=AS_20141006224829

I grabbed one of those sets (not from alixpress though), mostly alright, parting style one was shit though. Might be that the inserts are size compatible with name brands too. I've since added more pricey stuff for parting tool, boring bar, and internal threading. I reckon it's a good starting point for hobbyists, but be prepared to upgrade a few. I've got a dead live steady, and some slightly off center collets from similar suppliers...

[Ocean1]

dead live steady..

Please to describe it.

[bogan]

Please to describe it.

Oops, I meant dead live center. It used to spin and now it don't.

[Ocean1]

Oops, I meant dead live center. It used to spin and now it don't.

I've heard "live centre" used to describe a rotating centre a fair bit lately. When I were a nipper :laugh: a live centre was one in the headstock.

[Akzle]

if you havent found anything. this one's a bitta aright

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=789695499

[Imagineering]

The Lathe;
300 X 900 GearHead Lathe with a 38mm Bore, Power CrossFeed & Carriage, 2 Axis DRO, Indexable Tooling etc

The Mill;
Sieg SX3, 3 Axis CNC, (still working on a 4th Rotary Axis), ER32 Collet Chuck etc.

The Software;
Autodesk Inventor 3d Parametric, Aspire V4.5 3D.

Anyone wanting a bit of Design, Fabrication or Machining work done in the Wellington Area just Email me.

imagineeringnz (at) gmail.com

Murray McK.

[paturoa]

The Lathe;
300 X 900 GearHead Lathe with a 38mm Bore, Power CrossFeed & Carriage, 2 Axis DRO, Indexable Tooling etc

The Mill;
Sieg SX3, 3 Axis CNC, (still working on a 4th Rotary Axis), ER32 Collet Chuck etc.

The Software;
Autodesk Inventor 3d Parametric, Aspire V4.5 3D.
Murray McK.


Photos required

[paturoa]

if you havent found anything. this one's a bitta aright

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=789695499

Thanks, I've been watching that one. It's in a fine location too!

[Flip]

Cor, I'd love that old Myford.

My ML7 is fine but that old one is lathe porn. Show us your flat bed.

[Akzle]

The Lathe;
300 X 900 GearHead Lathe with a 38mm Bore, Power CrossFeed & Carriage, 2 Axis DRO, Indexable Tooling etc

The Mill;
Sieg SX3, 3 Axis CNC, (still working on a 4th Rotary Axis), ER32 Collet Chuck etc.

The Software;
Autodesk Inventor 3d Parametric, Aspire V4.5 3D.

Anyone wanting a bit of Design, Fabrication or Machining work done in the Wellington Area just Email me.

imagineeringnz (at) gmail.com

Murray McK.

damn. I had plans for a silencer somewhere.
Be interested to see how well you turn out parts...

[TLDV8]

Its probably still dodgy for a boilermaker to have a lathe but they are handy.
The Rong Fu mill/drill and 3 in 1 mill lathe from page 3 are still in storage in NZ (7 years this month) then I got another 3 in 1 when I was in Darwin (left nearly 4 years ago) which was left at my brothers workshop.

I got another Chinese lathe the other month, AL320G.

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Centre-Lathes

Fine for the money and powered cross feed along with reversible travel.
Getting used to it with so many years out of practice, its no Mercedes Benz but you get what you pay for.
First job was converting a Kubota alternator for the Sunbeam which got a M78 - 1 mm pitch left hand thread.
I ripped into it and noticed to late that setting it for a 1.25 mm pitch actually cuts a 1mm pitch.

http://s30.photobucket.com/user/manurewa/library/1949%20Sunbeam%20S7%20Deluxe/Sunbeam%20S7%20Kubota%20Mod?sort=3&page=1

Next will be a HM-46 mill/drill.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Turret-Milling-Machines

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/1949%20Sunbeam%20S7%20Deluxe/Sunbeam%20S7%20Kubota%20Mod/Drive5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Drive5.jpg"/></a>

I'm not sure in the big scheme of things cheap everything and quality to match is a good thing but does make these sort of things more accessible compared to 20 or so years ago.
A medium size knee mill with CNC conversion is still on the list, one day.....

[bogan]

I ripped into it and noticed to late that setting it for a 1.25 mm pitch actually cuts a 1mm pitch.

Might be something dicky with the change gears? 32 driven instead of 40 sort of thing? My lathe from them had something along those lines that needed changing.

But yeh, their stuff is decent quality for the price and makes things so much more accessible.

[pete-blen]

Its probably still dodgy for a boilermaker to have a lathe but they are handy.
The Rong Fu mill/drill and 3 in 1 mill lathe from page 3 are still in storage in NZ (7 years this month) then I got another 3 in 1 when I was in Darwin (left nearly 4 years ago) which was left at my brothers workshop.

I got another Chinese lathe the other month, AL320G.

https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Centre-Lathes

Fine for the money and powered cross feed along with reversible travel.
Getting used to it with so many years out of practice, its no Mercedes Benz but you get what you pay for.
First job was converting a Kubota alternator for the Sunbeam which got a M78 - 1 mm pitch left hand thread.
I ripped into it and noticed to late that setting it for a 1.25 mm pitch actually cuts a 1mm pitch.


Next will be a HM-46 mill/drill.
https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Turret-Milling-Machines


I'm not sure in the big scheme of things cheap everything and quality to match is a good thing but does make these sort of things more accessible compared to 20 or so years ago.
A medium size knee mill with CNC conversion is still on the list, one day.....


I have both of those... AL320 lathe & HM 46 mill...
As said for the prise there are ok.... the lathe gets better with use..
Mill is better built than the lathe...
like you both of mine have been in storage in blen for the last 2 years
I will get them down to ChCh one day....

[Imagineering]

I got another Chinese lathe the other month, AL320G.

Next will be a HM-46 mill/drill.

A medium size knee mill with CNC conversion is still on the list, one day.....


I've just installed your Lathe's 'Big Brother', the AL336D. Good Lathe but let down by the OEM QCTP which is being replaced by Mach House in NZ.

Thanks for the Heads-Up on checking the Change Gears before committing to a cut.

Before committing to the HM-46, have a look at the SIEG SX3 which is an easy and cost-effective way of getting into CNC Conversions. Do a search on the Web, as there are a number of 3 Axis Kits available for this Mill.

[bogan]

I've just installed your Lathe's 'Big Brother', the AL336D. Good Lathe but let down by the OEM QCTP which is being replaced by Mach House in NZ.

Thanks for the Heads-Up on checking the Change Gears before committing to a cut.

Before committing to the HM-46, have a look at the SIEG SX3 which is an easy and cost-effective way of getting into CNC Conversions. Do a search on the Web, as there are a number of 3 Axis Kits available for this Mill.

Funny you mention the QCTP, mine just started getting a bit stiff so I bored out the cam system a bit to fix it. Would have been an easy job if the cam could be holding the tool and in the chuck, G-clamp and super shallow cuts got the job done though.

SX3 do steels and get a decent finish on ali? Seems most of the little/hobby style CNCs struggle with metal a bit.

[Surly Rubec]

Black and Decker bought as a teenager 50+ years ago.
304000

[Imagineering]

Funny you mention the QCTP, mine just started getting a bit stiff so I bored out the cam system a bit to fix it. Would have been an easy job if the cam could be holding the tool and in the chuck, G-clamp and super shallow cuts got the job done though.

SX3 do steels and get a decent finish on ali? Seems most of the little/hobby style CNCs struggle with metal a bit.


The Lathe I wanted was only available with the QCTP, 2 Axis DRO and LeadScrew Covers.

The QCTP/Toolholder interface was so sloppy I could move the Toolholder 20 degrees when unlocked. In the locked position I had a Parting Tool destroy itself due to lack of rigidity.
The LeadScrew cover is a great idea but limits the travel of the Carriage so I can't use a Collet Chuck in the Spindle.
I would prefer 3 Axis DRO, which sounds a bit strange on a Lathe, but a separate Scale can be mounted on the Compound Slide and summed with the Carriage - very handy.

The SX3 munches Alloy quite well but a bit slower with Steel. You just need to play with Speeds & Feeds to suit. Really handy piece of Kit though.


.

[Ocean1]

Black and Decker bought as a teenager 50+ years ago.

Shit, that's high tech.

For the lobe grind on my old XL I just used a 4" disc grinder, a cardboard template and an oilstone...

[TLDV8]

Thanks for the Heads-Up on checking the Change Gears before committing to a cut.



I have to admit to doing a very light first cut so it would have been easy to check the pitch even with verniers, lucky it wasn't that important but still a silly mistake.

Somewhat off topic, I have a piping calculator for work (LNG plants) and picked up their machinists version a while back, quite handy.
It was quite miraculous to cut a thread following proper numbers and it actually screw together, instead of my just a bit more technique. :lol:

http://www.calculated.com/cat4/Handheld-and-Desktop-Construction-Calculators.html#.VDuktxYfhEM

I will order a HM-46 mill/drill this week, based on what I can unload, the lathe was a story in itself based on access.
It has a reasonable distance to the table and the tilting head should be good for removal of valve guides.

[TLDV8]

Might be something dicky with the change gears? 32 driven instead of 40 sort of thing? My lathe from them had something along those lines that needed changing.

But yeh, their stuff is decent quality for the price and makes things so much more accessible.

In theory if the 1 mm pitch is off so will the 2mm, I need to have another look, maybe setting it to the 1mm change gears cuts 1.25, I guess based on the lead screw and gears it could be calculated.
The powered cross travel and reversible feeds is a new luxury, I have to admit removing the top cover to see if there was oil in there, it sounds like a Bedford bus at times and drove like a Lada first use but have come to like it.
Agreed for the outlay they are good.

Even being able to make simple mandrels for pressing bushes in is great.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/1949%20Sunbeam%20S7%20Deluxe/Sunbeam%20Misc/IMG_1262.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1262.jpg"/></a>

[Imagineering]

In theory if the 1 mm pitch is off so will the 2mm, I need to have another look, maybe setting it to the 1mm change gears cuts 1.25, I guess based on the lead screw and gears it could be calculated.
The powered cross travel and reversible feeds is a new luxury, I have to admit removing the top cover to see if there was oil in there, it sounds like a Bedford bus at times and drove like a Lada first use but have come to like it.
Agreed for the outlay they are good.


Yep, the Gearhead does make a bit of noise. I have a Mate who has had his 336 for a year now and it is definitely quieter than mine. The Gear changes are a lot smoother as well, I've got a whole lot of 'false neutrals' in mine.

It's recommended by Machinery House to run the Lathe for a Month or two and then dump the Oil from all three Sumps, replacing it with '46 Grade' Hydraulic Oil. Oil Level in the Headstock Sump is very important as the Gears are splash fed and the Main Spindle Bearings are fed via a Collector Channel cast into the Headstock under the Cover. If there is not enough Oil to splash around, it won't reach high enough to splash into the Channels.

I'm still awaiting my new QCTP so I can't play at the moment.

M.

[TLDV8]

Hired a iLoad for the morning for the drive down to Sydney (80 kms) to pick up a HM-46 and accessories.
Good advice on the oil I will see what I can find and change it for something of known brand for peace of mind.

[Ocean1]

Hired a iLoad for the morning for the drive down to Sydney (80 kms) to pick up a HM-46 and accessories.
Good advice on the oil I will see what I can find and change it for something of known brand for peace of mind.

While you've got the tops off rattle a magnet around in the corners, you might be surprised what's lurking around in there.

And a magnetic plug ain't a bad idea either, just like the bike eh?

[pete-blen]

Hired a iLoad for the morning for the drive down to Sydney (80 kms) to pick up a HM-46 and accessories.
Good advice on the oil I will see what I can find and change it for something of known brand for peace of mind.


did yer get the power feed kit ?... wish I had....one day..

I had to shim the column forward & aft on the two rear bolts to get
the quill 90* with the table...

[Akzle]

any KBers in ohakune, or near enough?
ones that know what a manual belt lathe should feel like?

five bucks and a box of brown fizzy stuff if you can go give this a turn (pun might have been intended... you decide)

[TLDV8]

did yer get the power feed kit ?... wish I had....one day..

I had to shim the column forward & aft on the two rear bolts to get
the quill 90* with the table...

Hare and Forbes have one listed but it is quite expensive at AU$759 due to needing a transformer.

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/M230

I see this one on eBay for $439 (no transformer) so might go that cheaper route, it would be good with fly cutters.
The head on the Sunbeam would be the first test.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/201193935205?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Off topic of lathes but came across this where a similar mill/drill was converted to CNC.
The mechanic's of it seem very do-able but the electronics are another thing.

http://www.graetech.com/index.htm



While you've got the tops off rattle a magnet around in the corners, you might be surprised what's lurking around in there.

And a magnetic plug ain't a bad idea either, just like the bike eh?

Funny you mention that, the CNC link has a section where the gearbox bearings were replaced due to casting sand when the machine was still low hours.
I got a rotary table off Chevpac long ago and stripped it from new, cleaned the casting sand out of it, cleaned, lubricated with good grease and it gave reliable service for years (in storage now)
When I got the AL320G I removed the compound for that same reason (hadn't turned it on prior) there was casting sand that could be dislodged and would have dropped down onto the screw in use.
Cleaned it out but now wonder about the gearbox on both,mill and lathe, the HM-46 is in place but haven't plugged it in yet.
Having a look is looking like a good idea for sure.

[328FTW]

I picked up a 1972 USSR lathe, big ol beast. All in metric, 3 phase. Haven't measured between centres but I'd define it as "heaps bro". Removable bed section, picked it up for $700 not working and spent about a day cleaning rust and setting up the wiring for it to not be a birdsnest of fire then clacked it into gear and works like a charm. A mechanical engineer owned it for quite some time so it's not abused aside from sitting in a shed for years unused, the bed hasn't been smashed into the spinning bits a heap of times like some of the lathes I've used in shops that train people.

304677
304676



Haven't got a pic of it all cleaned up but it's all shined up now with no rust. I've used it just about every weekend since I bought it a few months ago, machining bushings and small projects mostly. But I'll need to run a few threads and stuff on it soon so I'll have to figure out what I'm doing with feed speeds. I've been using the compound head to do some tricky taper jobs though and it made an immaculate job of machining from my engineering drawings, I even met the specs for surface finish straight from the carbide bit no sanding or fine cut required; stoked as.

[Imagineering]

I picked up a 1972 USSR lathe, big ol beast. All in metric, 3 phase. Haven't measured between centres but I'd define it as "heaps bro".

Looks like something they made the Russian Tanks with for WW2.
What does She weigh in at?

.

[328FTW]

Looks like something they made the Russian Tanks with for WW2.
What does She weigh in at?

.

Not a damn clue what it weighs, I guess around 2 tonne from the forklift groan I was getting.

Tell you what though, I got it out of the guy's garage using a pair of load skates and a set of old round wooden banister blanks and just rolling it out with the help of friends on some 1970's looking DIY concrete. Don't think I've ever had a more complete workout. Even when I got my hand winch of the trailer hooked on I had to drag it up the incline of the tip trailer on the load skates; I was a little sore for the next few days.

[TLDV8]

I wonder if the cross slide on that USSR lathe takes off what you put on.

[Yow Ling]

I picked up a 1972 USSR lathe, big ol beast. All in metric, 3 phase. Haven't measured between centres but I'd define it as "heaps bro". Removable bed section, picked it up for $700 not working and spent about a day cleaning rust and setting up the wiring for it to not be a birdsnest of fire then clacked it into gear and works like a charm. A mechanical engineer owned it for quite some time so it's not abused aside from sitting in a shed for years unused, the bed hasn't been smashed into the spinning bits a heap of times like some of the lathes I've used in shops that train people.

304677
304676



Haven't got a pic of it all cleaned up but it's all shined up now with no rust. I've used it just about every weekend since I bought it a few months ago, machining bushings and small projects mostly. But I'll need to run a few threads and stuff on it soon so I'll have to figure out what I'm doing with feed speeds. I've been using the compound head to do some tricky taper jobs though and it made an immaculate job of machining from my engineering drawings, I even met the specs for surface finish straight from the carbide bit no sanding or fine cut required; stoked as.

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.

[Ocean1]

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.

Stankoimport was just an importer, for that machine and ones like it.

They were all solid beasts, as you say more than capable of pealing off a decent cut. If that one's seen just a few decades of moderate abuse then with a bit practice it's still good for pretty fine stuff too.

A HSS machine, to be sure, so it's good to have a few clues about grinding them up.

[Yow Ling]

I Have a couple of lathes, just didnt have the heart to get rid of the little one when i got the German one


Smart and Brown Toolroom lathe
304700


Meuser
304701

Both 3 phase, Meuser is metric and imperial threading maybe 7.5hp, a pleasure to use

[TLDV8]

did yer get the power feed kit ?... wish I had....one day..

I had to shim the column forward & aft on the two rear bolts to get
the quill 90* with the table...

I clocked the table thinking surely not, must be a one off, I will need to do the same, off the same as you posted.

I ended up getting the eBay power feed unit.
All good except when the body of the unit is hard up against the table bearing block and the drive gears lined up the dogs do not engage those on the table.
I made an adapter and since the screw had a M8 thread in the end already made a stepped cap.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Misc/IMG_1285.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1285.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Misc/IMG_1283.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1283.jpg"/></a>

[pete-blen]

I clocked the table thinking surely not, must be a one off, I will need to do the same, off the same as you posted.

I ended up getting the eBay power feed unit.
All good except when the body of the unit is hard up against the table bearing block and the drive gears lined up the dogs do not engage those on the table.
I made an adapter and since the screw had a M8 thread in the end already made a stepped cap.




since my last post..I have been looking at some power feed units on Aliexpress...
good prises..... but as always with chinese stuff at cheap prises...????????

Maybe I need to get the lathe & mill down to ChCh first...:facepalm:

[bogan]

Been having much fun in the shed last few weeks, looking to fab up a 4th axis for my cnc mill, am thinking of going with an ER40 collet chuck as low profile is key and it will likely on get used for a few standard sized bars anyway. What does the brain trust reckon? worth doing or does a traditional chuck have other benefits? Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?

[pete-blen]

By traditional chuck.... do you mean the drill press / jacobs style chuck ?..
If so they are not designed for high side load like a collet
chuck.... any vibration of the cutter can cause them to come lose
go with the collet chuck..

[Akzle]

Been having much fun in the shed last few weeks, looking to fab up a 4th axis for my cnc mill, am thinking of going with an ER40 collet chuck as low profile is key and it will likely on get used for a few standard sized bars anyway. What does the brain trust reckon? worth doing or does a traditional chuck have other benefits? Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?

if by "gearbox" you mean "stack of pulleys" then yes. if you are actually referring to gears in a box, then sprocket that fucker up. with triplex.
and. what are you driving it off.

collets hold tools. not work. IMO. unless it's some cold rolled surface ground shit.

[bogan]

By traditional chuck.... do you mean the drill press / jacobs style chuck ?..
If so they are not designed for high side load like a collet
chuck.... any vibration of the cutter can cause them to come lose
go with the collet chuck..

Nah I mean like a tiny 3jaw lathe one vs a collet chuck. Jacobs style wouldn't have the bore (in addition to sideways loading issues as you point out).

[328FTW]

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.


Stankoimport was just an importer, for that machine and ones like it.

They were all solid beasts, as you say more than capable of pealing off a decent cut. If that one's seen just a few decades of moderate abuse then with a bit practice it's still good for pretty fine stuff too.

A HSS machine, to be sure, so it's good to have a few clues about grinding them up.

It does have Stankoimport stamped on the side, if you google STANKO 1A616 that seems to be it, made from early 60's onwards. The only issue I've hit thus far is from sitting the stamped plate with all the gear speeds and tricky little notes for engagements has lost all the paint and rusted a bit. Hence I can't really tell what RPM and speed the feed is set to other than "this feels right" but that's fine for straight turning/boring operations. The plate is raised letters though so I might drill the rivets out, spraypaint it matt black then take a fine planer sander to it to bring up all the numbers again so they can be read properly.

[Imagineering]

Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?


If you want repeatability and no Backlash you must use a Toothed Belt, specifically the AT5 Series.
The AT5 Series has a specific Tooth Profile and is designed to have no Backlash when reversing the Spindle. I built a 4th Axis for my SIEG SX3 CNC Mill and used a standard Gates type Belt which proved to have too much Backlash.
Apparently the Standard Belts are designed for one-way rotation in Belted Systems, such as Cam Shafts, and the Tooth Profile is designed as such. The AT5 Series Profile does not allow the Tooth Gullet to touch the top of the Belt, so that when correctly tensioned the only parts of the Belt touching the Pulley are the Drive Faces.
With the AT5 Belts and Pulleys coupled with a Stepper Motor and 15/60 Reduction I can now Machine Herringbone Gears with Zero play in them.
I bought my AT5 Pulleys & Belts from John Brookes in Wellington. They are an indent Part from Aus and will cost around $NZ190.00

[bogan]

If you want repeatability and no Backlash you must use a Toothed Belt, specifically the AT5 Series.
The AT5 Series has a specific Tooth Profile and is designed to have no Backlash when reversing the Spindle. I built a 4th Axis for my SIEG SX3 CNC Mill and used a standard Gates type Belt which proved to have too much Backlash.
Apparently the Standard Belts are designed for one-way rotation in Belted Systems, such as Cam Shafts, and the Tooth Profile is designed as such. The AT5 Series Profile does not allow the Tooth Gullet to touch the top of the Belt, so that when correctly tensioned the only parts of the Belt touching the Pulley are the Drive Faces.
With the AT5 Belts and Pulleys coupled with a Stepper Motor and 15/60 Reduction I can now Machine Herringbone Gears with Zero play in them.
I bought my AT5 Pulleys & Belts from John Brookes in Wellington. They are an indent Part from Aus and will cost around $NZ190.00

Do the AT5 guys pay you a commision? :innocent:

Cheers for the advice though, I have some 5M HTD belts and a few pulleys lying about because the pulleys are easy to machine on a CNC; a quick google suggests HTD 5m might essentially just be an upgraded AT5 anyway. So I'm happy.
Can't recall what pulleys I have but will try and maximize size on the spindle to minimise play as well.

[Imagineering]

Do the AT5 guys pay you a commision? :innocent:

Cheers for the advice though, I have some 5M HTD belts and a few pulleys lying about because the pulleys are easy to machine on a CNC; a quick google suggests HTD 5m might essentially just be an upgraded AT5 anyway. So I'm happy.
Can't recall what pulleys I have but will try and maximize size on the spindle to minimise play as well.

If you have the capability with your CNC Machine, run a small EndMill down the Gullets of the Pulley so the the Belt doesn't touch. The problem with the standard Belt/Pulley system is that the top of the Belt Tooth sits on the Pulley Gullet and allows movement between the Belt & Pulley when reversing direction - causing a lot of angst and frustration.

No Commission, just a bit of wasted $$ and above mentioned angst finding this out.

[TLDV8]

Thanks for the Heads-Up on checking the Change Gears before committing to a cut.



There was nothing wrong with the gear train insructions, all operator error.
I cut a 1.25 mm pitch thread off the suggested gears today and it did just that, I will put that last time down to old age.
This time I checked before hand.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/1949%20Sunbeam%20S7%20Deluxe/Sunbeam%20S7%20Kubota%20Mod/IMG_1335.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1335.jpg"/></a>

[mr bucketracer]

305296550 kg peice of 1040 steel to make a dyno roller . 15hp tos lath

[Imagineering]

305296550 kg peice of 1040 steel to make a dyno roller . 15hp tos lath

Shit! My whole Lathe weighs that much.

[speights_bud]

305296550 kg peice of 1040 steel to make a dyno roller . 15hp tos lath
Worked with a similar sized Tos where I did my apprenticeship. Except the bed was just over 4metres long. Sweet machine, did some choice big long jobs in that. Lots of stainless shafts for watties etc.

Gutted good smart phones weren't there to snap pics. Not allowed to take photos of the injection mould tooling I make now :(

I always liked the Tos feed mechanism set up. Nice and simple to operate.

[mr bucketracer]

the bed on this one is around 3.5 metres , yes simple to use and diffient . it runs 2x 7.5hp motors , has a hydraulic copying attachment and was used for making some of the first mag wheels in new zealand .ward mags