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Drum
21st August 2005, 08:52
My first stupid question is (and this one comes from my missus'):

What do you do if you get a flat tyre?

p.s. Please feel free to chastise me for my newbie ignorance if it makes you feel big/ important :clap:

James Deuce
21st August 2005, 08:57
Swear like a sailor with pox after a visit to Hong Kong.

Cry a little bit.

Ring the wife to bring me a tyre pando.

Punch the next tyre rep I see at the bike shop.

TwoSeven
21st August 2005, 09:49
If you get a flat, normally the tire wont go down quickly, especially if something is still poking out of the tire. What happens is the steering will gradually get heavier and heavier and the bike will start to wallow.

Dont remove whatever is poking into the tire - for two reasons. 1) the tire will go flat straight away, 2) the person repairing it wont be able to find the hole.

Ride to your tireshop and either ask for it to be plug-n-patched, or buy a new tire (on a sports bike you should do the latter).

For most punctures, i've found they are slow enough to be able to pump up the next day, then ride to the bike shop. Although it depends really on what went thru the tire.

Blowouts (very rare) or sudden deflations are a pain. Just shut the throttle and let the bike come to a halt (never had one happen, but their will be some similar technique for it). The biggest pain is that you then have to push the bike with the tire being dead flat.

Finally, tires normally only start to pick up punctures when they are worn out or run too soft.

Thats just my thoughts on it - others will have different ideas.

Stevo
21st August 2005, 10:08
Swear like a sailor with pox after a visit to Hong Kong.

Cry a little bit.

Ring the wife to bring me a tyre pando.

Punch the next tyre rep I see at the bike shop.
I'd second that

Motu
21st August 2005, 10:13
Slow punctures only happen with tubeless tyres - if you have tubes they will deflate fast,sometimes instantly.How you come to a stop depends on your skill level,but gently does it is most important.You have to repair it on the side of the road,I've done it many times and is a major pain in the arse - these days it's a phone call to the wife....trouble is I'm usualy in a no reception area.....

Ixion
21st August 2005, 11:06
There are no stupid questions, only people too stupid to ask them. So do not be embarrassed.

As to punctures,what happens ? Um, you fall off ? Hopefully not!

A deflated rear wheel will make the bike lurch and wallow when in a straight line. And very strange in corners. Tubeless tyres do not usually go down fast so you should notice a gradual "wot the hell" with handling. Tubed tyres will go down very fast . The good news is that a fast deflatioon on the rear is probably survivable. Just try to keep steering straight ahead, don't use the rear brake, brake gently (GENTLY) with the front brake, and try to move your weight forward a bit.

A deflated front is nastier. At worst it will induce a uncontrollable wobble, and probably a tank-slapper! Then you fall off ! Tubeless tyres you should pick up that something is horribly wrong long before the tyre is completely flat. Tubed tyre, instant flat. Only had it happen once (on the road - off road I pulled the valve out a few times , yeah I know, more clamps) , I survived. Fortunately, I was not going very fast , and the 19" tyres on old Briddish had quite heavy sidewalls. Up to your skills and teh Biker Gds, this one.

So it depends a lot on the bike - on a BSA Bantam, the sidewalls are so thick in relation to the weight of the bike that you hardly need air .

Blowouts ? VERY rare indeed on bikes. And I've never heard of a bike tyre losing its tread.

Best to leave this as one of the "Please Biker Gods, don't let this ever happen to me" situations. But a puncture IS survivable. Just try to ride it out. Don't panic, don't use the brake on whichever wheel is flat (sucks to have linked brakes I guess) , and slow down GENTLY in as straight a line as you can manage. Actually, not so different to a car

Hitcher
21st August 2005, 16:15
??

Ring for help like the big girl's blouse I am. Mind you, I'd like to see somebody remove the rear wheel from an ST1300 on the side of the road halfway up the Takas, in a gale, with the toolkit Honda-san thought would be a good idea to insert under the rear seat...

myvice
21st August 2005, 16:58
I have had a flat on every bike I have ever owned. 3 on my CBR!
Better than crashing them I spose...
I carry a can of Pando type foam goo on my bike, if you do use it get your tire to the shop as soon as you can, as a lot of places get a tad iffy fixing them after 3 months of use.
And it’s only a get you home thing anyway!
A better option is a repair kit with the CO2 canisters but a mate borrowed my one 8 years ago for a trip, didn’t use it and kept it as punishment for its lack of use.
Blowouts on bikes suck, 2 up 15k's out of Cambridge on a hot day suck more!
And if nob-end in a tire shop says "I just put a tube in it" Give him a smack and go elsewhere!

No such thing as a stupid question!
Stupid answer however...

avgas
21st August 2005, 17:28
well lets see, when i blew me front out once, i got the misses to sit right off the tail of the ol' GB so that the front tyre wasnt taking all the weight, we then crawled 5k home. When i blew the back out once, i thought i had just lost some hp, so i gave it more juice and rode the thumper, the few 100m's home home. Only to get off the bike and notice the tire sittn on the rim.
Have heard horror stories of poor bastards loosing steering etc when a big blow out occurs.
My old man carries one of those tyre cannister things on his bike for the next flatties - those things are good as a temp. solution

sunhuntin
21st August 2005, 17:41
already had one puncture...hit the same something twice around from my flat. noticed the steering was sluggish at the top of the hill, backend pulling away to the left. by the time i got nearly to the bottom, it was fully flat. coasted the bottom, got off and walked her to the mechanics across the road. 24 hours later and im back rolling. lucky there was a mechanicas so close, otherwise i woulda been screwed. still dont know what i hit though, but i avoid going home that way now, lol.

Drum
21st August 2005, 21:14
Hey thanks guys and gals, all good stuff. My next, and final question for tonight is:

What are the pros and cons of two stroke bikes versus four stroke bikes, particularly from a learner riders point of view? Would you recommend one over the other? And if so, why?

Thanks all, and apologies if this is covered in another thread somewhere.

Motu
21st August 2005, 21:27
Some 2 strokes,like commuters and simple trail bikes are quite tame and docile,actualy easier to ride,more reliable and simpler to maintain than a 4 stroke.But they are capable of making far more horsepower than a 4 stroke,and are aggressive about it,also fussy in the care required,although still less than a 4 stroke with half the horsepower.I don't see any problem with 2 strokes,even high performance ones....but you will have to learn about power delivery,they are harder to ride smoothly.

Beemer
21st August 2005, 23:09
With regards to the flat tyre, join AA - they now offer roadside assistance for bikers. Never had a flat tyre, thankfully, so no practical advice!

As for two strokes versus four strokes - as they say, different strokes for different folks! Had both - the RG150 was fun, fun, fun. A bit revvy, but I learnt to ride on it and I'm still here! The latest two bikes are four strokes and both are lovely. Not sure if it's the same for all two strokes, but the RG had no engine braking and the Goose and Beemer do, so that was one thing I had to get used to.

Oh, and don't blame your questions, dumb or otherwise, on your missus! :nono:

James Deuce
21st August 2005, 23:15
With regards to the flat tyre, join AA - they now offer roadside assistance for bikers.

Really difficult to get them to turn up and when they do they have no idea.

Canned our memberships after being left in the lurch 3 times in a row. They suck. Not only do they NOT advocate for the average NZ motorist, they can't help on the side of the road.

I was told repeatedly by the telephone operator I got that AA do not provide roadside assistance for motorcyclists with flat tyres, despite being sold on it with the line you've been fed.

Refusing to help my heavily pregnant wife when the car wouldn't start (cracked distributor cap) was the last straw.

XP@
22nd August 2005, 00:19
Reparing on the side of the road, watch out! I know of one rider who was repairing a puncture on his goldwing. He went across the road to get some more co2 cannisters. a drunk / uninsured driver plowed in to the bike minutes before or later he would have been collected. As it was he was able to finnish the ride on a spare bike and later re-bikld the gold wing

dhunt
22nd August 2005, 12:13
My first stupid question is (and this one comes from my missus'):

What do you do if you get a flat tyre?

p.s. Please feel free to chastise me for my newbie ignorance if it makes you feel big/ important :clap:
If it goes flat quickly, which isn't normally a problem on tubeless tyres, main thing to not do is brake with the flat tyre - can cause problems :doh: Just slow down slowly always fun on a flat front tyre.

vifferman
22nd August 2005, 12:27
Ride to your tireshop and either ask for it to be plug-n-patched, or buy a new tire (on a sports bike you should do the latter).
Not true - my last puncture (VTR1000) was plugged, and was both safe and durable.

For most punctures, i've found they are slow enough to be able to pump up the next day, then ride to the bike shop. Although it depends really on what went thru the tire.
True, but once again, my last puncture was a very small nail, and the tyre went down during the day.

Finally, tires normally only start to pick up punctures when they are worn out or run too soft.
Not necessarily, as the softness of modern sports rubber means the tyres puncture fairly readily, no matter how old/new the tyre is. My last puncture was in a brand new tyre, and was rather unlucky in that it was a very small nail, right next to a tread block. A mm or two further over, and it wouldn't have caused a leak.

Most punctures are in rear tyres, and are caused when the front tyre flicks up a nail, screw, or piece of wire or metal, and the rear tyre runs it over just before it's flat on the road again. Front tyres usually puncture only when the same thing happens when the vehicle ahead flicks up some debris.

I've called the AA out for my bike, but not for a puncture - it was an electrical fault (R/R on the VFR750). I knew what it was, but needed a jump-start, as there wasn't enough juice in the battery to bump-start it.

Biff
22nd August 2005, 23:48
I carry an emergency puncture repair kit on most planned trips. Similar this this one>> M&P (http://www.mandp.co.uk/productInfo.aspx?catRef=507010) . But you'll find them in any decent motorbike shop - or on the tinternet.

Basically if you get a puncture - as described by others already, you plug the hole using the included thingamejig, then you use a specialwidgetthingygun to re-inflate the tyre with a small disposable Co2 cannister. You then ride onto the nearest motormacycle repair shack and get an hexpert to look at your tyre, and replace if necessary.

The kit's quite small, so It'll probably fit under your seat & it saves getting stuck in the middle of nowhere, without cell phone coverage, down a dark country lane, very close to a high security psycho hospital that's just lost one of it's most dangerous 'patients. Not that I'm trying to scare you or anything.

Drum
27th August 2005, 08:45
Thanks for the advice so far people. I am now looking for my first bike and have my eye on a 1997 Kawasaki EL250. Price around 3 and a half K. Any thoughts on these bikes? Any well known problems? Any idea what a good price for one of this vintage would be? Thanks in advance.

Motohaus
27th August 2005, 10:12
good little bike tend to be hard to sell second hasnd due to styling get a zzr250 same motor easier to sell later also gpx 250 same motor they seem to were out camshafts and rockers around the eighty tou mark but other than than excellent
new rocker arms $108 need eight
new cams $443.00 need 2
rocker gasket$54.00
clutch cover gasket $24.00
but seconhd hand hoile lot $150.00
don,t let this put you off just pull rocker cover off to inspect before buying if ok buy because these are reliable and we handling bikes that hold ther resale value

Hitcher
27th August 2005, 14:50
Thanks for the advice so far people. I am now looking for my first bike and have my eye on a 1997 Kawasaki EL250. Price around 3 and a half K. Any thoughts on these bikes? Any well known problems? Any idea what a good price for one of this vintage would be? Thanks in advance.
Mrs H had one of these in our 250 era. A great bike. It made the Zeal work hard (although Mrs H is about half my weight) as it wasn't troubled by the same flat spot in its power band. A very willing donk and a nice low seat, great for shorter riders. Motorcycle City (remember them?) sold this with crap rubber and a stuffed chain. Mrs H did about 16,500km on hers in the nine months she had it and it never missed a beat -- even after going up the Hutt Motorway on its side...

Great fuel economy too, especially when compared with a Zeal.

Drum
28th August 2005, 00:43
Cheers H. I'll be riding the Hutt highway every day, so hope I dont meet the same fate, and thanks for the word of experience. To tell the truth I fell in love with the bike during the test ride last Friday and havnt slept properly since. Last time this happened was when I met the lovely Drum's missus. Never felt this way about machinery before. I note the earlier comment regarding styling, but I must be some sort of freak coz thats why I like it. Comments on the attached picture appreciated, but not taken to heart...........p.s. Nudity attached. Bike Nudity that is.

Drum
28th August 2005, 00:46
..........

Hitcher
28th August 2005, 14:28
Cheers H. I'll be riding the Hutt highway every day, so hope I dont meet the same fate, and thanks for the word of experience. To tell the truth I fell in love with the bike during the test ride last Friday and havnt slept properly since. Last time this happened was when I met the lovely Drum's missus. Never felt this way about machinery before. I note the earlier comment regarding styling, but I must be some sort of freak coz thats why I like it. Comments on the attached picture appreciated, but not taken to heart...........p.s. Nudity attached. Bike Nudity that is.
Mrs H had a spoked-wheel model. Cleaning the wheels was the thing she hated most about the Eliminator. That is why she is now anti-spokes.

Ixion
28th August 2005, 15:00
Mrs H had a spoked-wheel model. Cleaning the wheels was the thing she hated most about the Eliminator. That is why she is now anti-spokes.

:Oi: As official spokesspoke of the United Brotherhood of Spokesfolks (headquarters Spokane , WA) I protest against this poke at the noble spoke !

mstriumph
28th August 2005, 15:08
oh c'MON - they look great but they are a PAIN to clean ... :oi-grr:
:Oi: As official spokesspoke of the United Brotherhood of Spokesfolks (headquarters Spokane , WA) I protest against this poke at the noble spoke !

Motu
28th August 2005, 17:19
oh c'MON - they look great but they are a PAIN to clean ... :oi-grr:

Any cleaning that can't be done with a waterblaster doesn't get done by me.I've NEVER cleaned spokes,and never owned a bike with mags either.

Hitcher
28th August 2005, 19:29
:Oi: As official spokesspoke of the United Brotherhood of Spokesfolks (headquarters Spokane , WA) I protest against this poke at the noble spoke !
Do you have an official spokesperson?

Ixion
28th August 2005, 19:51
Any cleaning that can't be done with a waterblaster doesn't get done by me.I've NEVER cleaned spokes,and never owned a bike with mags either.


Don't think I've ever given them more than a perfunctionary scrub over with the wash brush. It's a spoke for heavens sake.

sunhuntin
28th August 2005, 19:59
used to on my buddys bike, but read somewhere the more ya clean em the more they rust. now, with my pup, i rarely clean inbetween the spokes, let alone the spokes themselves. only time i cleaned between them was for yesterdays charity run. wanted her spotless.

Drum
10th October 2005, 13:04
My friend has a GN250 that failed to start this morning. It appears that the battery has gone flat. My question is, can I slap in onto my car charger to recharge, or will the battery blow up or something similar?

XP@
10th October 2005, 13:07
My friend has a GN250 that failed to start this morning. It appears that the battery has gone flat. My question is, can I slap in onto my car charger to recharge, or will the battery blow up or something similar?
Yup, you can, or riding for a while will charge it enough.

To start a bike with a flat battery you can bump start quite easily use 2nd or 3rd gear.

FROSTY
10th October 2005, 13:23
depending when the leak happens etc etc---but one thing 100% certain
NEVER snap the throttle off -you will end up on ya ass so fast ya wont know wot hit ya--same with slamming the brakes on
gently ease the throttle off and use the brake on the wheel that doesn't have the leak--This is the one exception to the use the front brakes mostly rule. if the bars start to shimmy ease the throttle back on a touch till the shimmy settles. the secret is to be gentle and expect a bit of bar wobble
Unfortunately I had the misfortune to have explosive decomression on a 900 ninja so im talking fact not theory here.
If you wanna definition of fear--try a full on uncontrollable tankslapper at 240km/h -oops--oll finger slipped 240

Ixion
10th October 2005, 14:42
..
If you wanna definition of fear--try a full on uncontrollable tankslapper at 2540km/h -

Well, since the wheels would be well clear of ground by then, I imagine it would be fine until the time came to land :devil2:

Phenoix
10th October 2005, 16:11
My first stupid question is (and this one comes from my missus'):

What do you do if you get a flat tyre?

p.s. Please feel free to chastise me for my newbie ignorance if it makes you feel big/ important :clap:

You may have asked the question, but there will be a dozen other people, and not always newbies reading all the answers posted.
Newbies dont normal get hounded here. Its the older riders that get it when they do something non life threatening

sefer
14th October 2005, 22:10
When you go to change down (in my case anyway) and somehow miss the gear and end up in a clunky sounding netural, is this what people mean by "false netural"or should I be looking at my gearbox?

Ixion
14th October 2005, 22:16
When you go to change down (in my case anyway) and somehow miss the gear and end up in a clunky sounding netural, is this what people mean by "false netural"or should I be looking at my gearbox?

Yes, that's a "false neutral". You've disengaged one gear, and failed to engage the other. and sorting it out can be nosiy and nasty. It's not actually anything in the gearbox (though a worn gearbox may make changes harder and false neutrals more common)

sefer
14th October 2005, 23:04
Woo Hoo, cool thanks I'd thought thats what people must have been talking about :)

Has happened before and I wasn't too concerned, but it happened three times today. Probably just because I was riding on the hills and changing on higher revs than what I usually would.

Gremlin
14th October 2005, 23:15
I've hit false neutral a few times for sure, usually, engage clutch, change gear, but before I've finished, I've let the clutch out and it gets stuck halfway.

Clutchless shifting gets rid of it and gives you better acceleration... :devil2:

heavenly.talker
17th October 2005, 14:07
One of my mates and I were going out for a ride when he got a fast flat. Luckily for him there was a man who had been riding forever moving his kids into a flat. He dumped the furniture, offered to help us out. He put the bike on the trailer and he dropped us home about 15 mins away.

The next day when the bike shop was open we took a hand pump with us and stopped every 500 m to pump the tire back up and stopped at all petrol stations on the way there to refil the tyre.

We got to the last petrol station when the tyre decided it had enough, deflating just as fast as my mate was rescrewing the cap on. We went in the phone the bikeshop to see if they could pick up but they didn't do that anymore.

Lucky for my mate again there was a man who worked at the station who had a van just big enough to fit his marauder. He offered to help, loaded the bike into the van and then dropped the bike and my mate at the bike shop about 1.5 kms away.
Again just another random stranger who acted out of kindness!
The guys at the bike shop had it replaced in no time flat and we were off riding soon after that.

Yay for the wonderful strangers who helped out! Gives you hope that not all New Zealanders don't care huh!

Phenoix
17th October 2005, 15:29
Yea, thats always good.
The other way is to keep a few number in your phone of people that are always on the forome and ask them to put a post up here asking for help.
Probably cost u a dozen or something sweet like that.
Flats are never any fun tho

ManDownUnder
17th October 2005, 15:45
How do you stop the loo paper from 'sticking' sometimes...

y'know like after a really good/bad curry - or a large night out drinking lion red or summat...

1/2 way through a good wipe and WOOPS...paper's stuck and the hand didn't stop.

SlowHand
17th October 2005, 16:00
MDU ya stingy punk! Invest in some good quality 4ply, and fold numerous times, then avoid the dreaded finger thru - unless your a scruncher, in which case you should just dip ur ass into a bucket full of water and wiggle while listening to some Nelly or whatever music you girate (sp) to.

Although, good curry/red makes my dumps runny. Take some magnesium or turbo lax. That's help the world fall out your bottom!


My question - what causes tank slappers?

Motu
17th October 2005, 16:24
False neutrals only happen when girls are watching - if you see a nice looking chick you want to impress....don't change gear!

Storm
17th October 2005, 16:33
Never a truer word spoken- its hit me many times outside cafes filled with hot womenfolk -Doh!!

Ixion
17th October 2005, 16:35
Stand (centre and side) have the same innate malevolence. They only play tricks when the chick you want to impress is watching. Hard to look macho when you're sprawled on the ground with the bike on top of you. Ultimate indignity is having to ask the chick to help get the bike off you.

metric
17th October 2005, 19:15
My question - what causes tank slappers?

Mine too.. am still working on getting down with the lingo - tank slappers - something happens, teh bike gets the crazy wobbles and ya legs are banging off the tank? something like that?

2much
17th October 2005, 19:28
Can be a number of things, but most usually caused when accelerating hard (often in/coming out of a corner and lent over) and the front wheels unweighted then hits a bump on an angle. the wheel will flick sideways, then the physics of the bike will overcorrect that movement by flicking the other way and so on...... nuthin makes your bum pucker faster!!! Amazing how much foam one little asshole can suck up!

Ixion
17th October 2005, 19:35
A "tank slapper" is when an unstable oscillation in the handlebars builds up in force and frequency until the handlebars are being banged violently from full lock to full lock with enormous force.

It is impossible to hold the bars the force slapping them from side to side is tremendous, enough in some cases to smash the lock stops off the frame and crush the fuel tank

The classic mistake is to brake or try and wrestle the bars. Almost certainly guaranteed to result in the rider being violently thrown off. The usual end of a tank slapper is a crash. The only possible way to deal with a full blown tank slapper is to accelerate gently. Which is counter intuitive and takes a lot of courage. Even then it may not work . Pray. And throw yourself on the mercy of the Biker Gods.

What causes it? Not really known, it is steering instabilty that sets up a feedback mechanism with the natural harmonic frequency of the frame (or something like that). Usually it is set off by a bump when cornering or some such, but some bikes it can just happen for no discernable reason.

It is the most frightening thing that can happen to a rider, IMHO

avgas
17th October 2005, 19:55
2 stroke is fun
4 stroke is fun
2 stroke smell nice
2 stroke like havn a turbo
Do it before its illegal!

SlowHand
17th October 2005, 20:13
here's my 2nd - how do you accelerate if the bastards slappin the tank like a pimp in a ghetto?

Ixion
17th October 2005, 20:16
here's my 2nd - how do you accelerate if the bastards slappin the tank like a pimp in a ghetto?

With very great difficulty. Which is why you usually end up getting tossed off. hang on like grim death (unfortunate simile) and try to grab some throttle. Probably won't work, but. But anything else is worse.

2much
17th October 2005, 20:20
Pray you get a bit of a warning before it gets to that stage and get on the gas asap

Motu
17th October 2005, 22:26
Most often you are accelerating out of a turn,so you can put some power on...but yeah,counter intuative,like a lot of things to do with bikes (try turning on a wall like us trials riders do,or for me,used to - approach wall,big handfull of throttle and pull the front wheel up,shit your pants and marvel at your skill at the same time) I get wobbles on cresting turns,the bike lands with the front wheel out of line as I land countersteering,scary shit because it always happens at speed (120kph is fast to me!) Biggest wobbles are in sand,you can get up to a good speed on the beach,and if you get into a speed wobble they are really big powerful tankslappers - the sand building up behind the wheel slams it over,powersteering with sand build up in front of the wheel....there is just no way to stop it,just ride it to a standstill.I was on the beach 3 weeks ago and got to learn scary things from the past....

N4CR
17th October 2005, 22:32
False neutrals only happen when girls are watching - if you see a nice looking chick you want to impress....don't change gear!

But if you redline it, it scares them away :( Ya gotta look fast you know!

Just can't win eh :crybaby:

fucking neutral.. just abolish it

M1CRO
17th October 2005, 22:52
here's my 2nd - how do you accelerate if the bastards slappin the tank like a pimp in a ghetto?

I have a different opinion on resolving this. Quite a few years ago (maybe 17? and yes I was riding then), some bikes were prone to tank slapping. These were due to instability as a result of wide range of things which I wont get into but I tend to agree with most of Ixion comments.

Generally, these Tank slappers were as a result of "speed" and were sometimes known as the "speed wobbles". I am not sure if this is exactly what you were getting into, but at the very least you can add it to the list of useless trivial things that you now know :)

Anyway, to resolve this, you need to lower your centre of gravity!! The best and easiest way to do this is to lean over your tank and slowly deaccelerate. Of couse, building up your speed once your over the tank, will only result in another tank slapper. If this happens, you have no way your lowering your centre of gravity, and you will end up being thrown off..

I have only once experienced this and it happened to be on a XJ750 and I was doing around 150km on a country road.

My 2c worth :whistle:

Ixion
17th October 2005, 23:07
Video of a slapper (http://www.mad-ducati.com/Mpeg/tankslapper_tt99.mpeg)

M1CRO
17th October 2005, 23:10
Nice video :niceone:

Edit - Did you notice that the speed wobble starts, then;
left foot comes off the pegs.. result: wobble gets worse..
right leg comes off... result:. even worser (sic)!

Still stick to my advice that if he leant down over the tank at the start of the wobble the bike would still be in one piece :headbang:

2much
17th October 2005, 23:39
That's damn scary, agree with Ixion, that's probably the worst thing to have happen on a bike...... or dropping it while showing off in front of some hot chick!

metric
18th October 2005, 06:09
Video of a slapper (http://www.mad-ducati.com/Mpeg/tankslapper_tt99.mpeg)

shee-it that looks freaky... the bike looks possessed

Phenoix
18th October 2005, 06:16
damm the looks freaky

Goblin
18th October 2005, 06:46
Thats one helluva tankslappa!! OUCH! If you ever get a wobble on like that, dont put your feet down. Keep your feet on the pegs and grip the tank with your knees and slowly roll off the throttle.
Years ago I had a huge tankslappa on my Impulse. Hit one of those knobbly lumps of seal on the center line and got very ugly very quick. Was doing about 130km/h but managed to hold onto it and ride it out. My petrol tap dug into my knee and nearly took my knee-cap off. My last big wobble was earlier this year on my mates ZZR1100, worn rear tyre, bumpy left hand corner over a small bridge. Amazed myself as I held on and didnt end up like the dude in the clip. Slowed me down for about 10 kms.

Dadpole
18th October 2005, 09:24
Some of the older bikes seemed to have tankslappers built in. EG. the GSX1100 ESE/ESF with the 16 inch front wheel. Both of mine had low speed problems, as in 50km and take hands off bars. If they hit a matchstick the front end went wild (seat stain time). At speed they were fine (one finger on the bar on 180 km corners)

Phenoix
18th October 2005, 12:51
Well to add onto this then then, what and how do the dampeners on the larger bikes work then, arnt they there to stop tank slapping ?

SlowHand
18th October 2005, 17:18
2much - dropping it front of a hottie, you could always pick yourself up, and say, damn! almost had it. then if she asks what you were trying, you could always make some shit up! you could be the man or the excuse making bitch tho.

Krayy at the mystery ride told me of Pyrocam executing an awesome skill from a bitchslapper at a group ride- you about Pyro? willing to share?

SlowHand
18th October 2005, 17:32
Just saw the vid - GULP!!! That takes care of my Ego Bank (tm)!

sunhuntin
19th October 2005, 21:40
anyone got tips for riding on gravel/fist sized stones? not overly confident on either. a close friend has the fist stones for a drive way, and also gravel at the end of his road. i know enough to relax my grip on the bars and let them go where they need rather than try and control them, but what else is handy to know?

sefer
19th October 2005, 22:04
Go slow in 1st or 2nd, don't brake hard, look out for for deep patches of gravel (usually where cage tyres have pushed it to the side/middle), and pratice somewhere.

I've got a long gravel driveway and that's where I praticed riding my bike before I took it on the road, I find that gravel in general doesn't bother me too much anywhere now because I've had pratice slipping and sliding down the driveway.

I must admit I've dropped my bike on the drive twice now though :opps: :) once going under 5k and hitting a deep patch, and once when I had just cleaned my bike and had the bright idea of testing the brakes, in the dark, on one of the deeper areas of the drive.. Slamming the front brake on on deep gravel when you can't see what's in front of you isn't one of the brighter ideas you can have :p

flash
19th October 2005, 22:06
just thought ild add another tank slapper :cool:

edit: oops, same clip (it took me like 30 mins to download the other one on dial up)

2much
19th October 2005, 22:08
Experience on a dirtbike is invaluable. keep your weight on the pegs, look far ahead in the direction you want to go. Don't make make any sudden changes of direction, follow the wheel tracks if there. And keep in a fairly high gear so that any small change in throttle doesn't do too much.

No 1 tip:
practice, practice, practice

avgas
19th October 2005, 22:27
Pretty much what everyone has said is correct, its the classic, practice makes perfect thing - i got to the point where i could drift the RG up dads nasty driveway (it made pikes peak like wide open smooth corners)....classic case of wanting a road legal trail bike....and only being able to afford the rg

SlowHand
20th October 2005, 09:15
Do you stand on the pegs? I did this the other day, with relaxed grip, and was amazed that I didnt fall over even with the bike squirming the whole way. I was real tempted to give it more throttle and try and get the back out, but hotties were around so I just decided to pop a wheelie, and hang off the back with my feet to stablise. (not!)

sunhuntin
20th October 2005, 14:26
havent tried standing on the pegs....will remember that next time. the road im thinking is about 30 mins out of town. will definatly head that way once the weathers cleared up some.

cheers :spudwave:

SlowHand
20th October 2005, 17:11
shit, sorry sunhuntin - I wasnt suggesting - I was asking. I didnt really see much difference, but I thought if off-roaders do it, I shud try it

sunhuntin
20th October 2005, 21:34
not a worry. actually could be a good idea. saw it on that long way round program once and have tried it going over speed bumps. find it harder to keep the throttle even, but balance isnt too bad. will try it next time i visit my friend with the fist stones and see what happens. :apumpin:

Motu
20th October 2005, 22:04
anyone got tips for riding on gravel/fist sized stones? not overly confident on either. a close friend has the fist stones for a drive way, and also gravel at the end of his road. i know enough to relax my grip on the bars and let them go where they need rather than try and control them, but what else is handy to know?

Speed and throttle on as much as possible (I know it's not always possible,but try) If you throttle off the front will go heavy and you'll wander all over the place.Use a lower gear and rev the motor,you'll have better control.I used to live up a very rough 200 mtr drive with big kumara sized stones and had a CB750 at the time,it was a bloody nightmare,considering I could charge up as fast as I liked on my other road bike with my eyes shut.Don't stand on the pegs,you'll be unstable - I stand on the pegs if I'm picking my way slowly,or going over rough stuff at speed,for going up a driveway I'd be sitting down.

limbimtimwim
21st October 2005, 15:56
False neutrals only happen when girls are watching - if you see a nice looking chick you want to impress....don't change gear!D'Oh! I'd never noticed the 1 to 1 correlation..!

classic zed
24th October 2005, 21:48
Hi folks, newbie to "KB" here, not new to bikes though, I had a few over the years and a few tank slappers too. I have to agree with an earlier comment about laying down on the tank, it works!! lower the centre of gravity and the tank slapper stops. My old 500 triple Kawasaki was a always doing it so I got quite good at knowing how to control it, never found out how to fix it though.

2much
24th October 2005, 21:58
Hey there CZ, welcome aboard!

Astolat
28th October 2005, 20:06
I have a good stupid q for you.

I just got my handling cert. :woohoo: So gotta go do the written.

I just have one prob question.

If you stall or stop going up a hill, which brake should you use when starting off again?
A: Front
B: Rear
C: Both

I assume it's back? as this is when you are taking off (starting) or do they mean when you start your engine using the front????

God knows I'll end up with this question :argh:

SlowHand
28th October 2005, 21:22
I use whatever - depending on how unco Im feeling. Back if Im unco - which I normally am

Drum
28th October 2005, 21:34
Astolat, its a bit of a trick question. The correct answer is both. Front brake while you restart the engine/ change into gear. Then rear brake as you increase throttle.

Good luck with your theory - and dont worry bout it. Its a piece of cake. Have you read the Motorcycle road code?

Astolat
29th October 2005, 17:47
Astolat, its a bit of a trick question. The correct answer is both. Front brake while you restart the engine/ change into gear. Then rear brake as you increase throttle.

Good luck with your theory - and dont worry bout it. Its a piece of cake. Have you read the Motorcycle road code?

THANKS!! :D Yes I have read it. That is the only question that bugged me.
Just gotta book in, and I'm away.

cheers

Cibby
30th October 2005, 01:19
Ok so when you watch your mate hit a wall at 160km per hour and get totally frecked out by it..

What is the best way to get over that when i keeps replaying in your mind??

Just go and ride the next day on no sleep and go hard with new tyres that need a good scrubbing.. or just chill???

Gremlin
30th October 2005, 02:09
time and riding. Had a minor dose of that when I came off twice in three days. After that, every corner I was picking out the horrible edges, picturing myself hitting them and awkward angles, back impacting with stuff etc.

Totally screwed with the enjoyment and my lines. It will get better, but it is a fact you should face. Not being negative or wanting to start a debate, but the fact is bikes cannot balance by themselves, and most people will come off at some point. Minimise obvious danger and enjoy yourself. If it comes, then it comes.

But with a bit of time and him healing, you will eventually find it doesn't impact you nearly as much.

Cibby
30th October 2005, 02:16
time and riding. Had a minor dose of that when I came off twice in three days. After that, every corner I was picking out the horrible edges, picturing myself hitting them and awkward angles, back impacting with stuff etc.

Totally screwed with the enjoyment and my lines. It will get better, but it is a fact you should face. Not being negative or wanting to start a debate, but the fact is bikes cannot balance by themselves, and most people will come off at some point. Minimise obvious danger and enjoy yourself. If it comes, then it comes.

But with a bit of time and him healing, you will eventually find it doesn't impact you nearly as much.

possibly wise beyond your years...

Gremlin
30th October 2005, 02:24
now that has to be a first (the wisdom part). Maybe its the physical exertion that has prematurely aged me (SHIIIIIIIIIIT, this going to hurt. *crunch* yep, that hurt...)

first-hand experience might also help. Ya know, got to try everything. Privately, I reckon thats how I learn. "aaargh, nope that was not the right way..."

Cibby
30th October 2005, 02:26
now that has to be a first (the wisdom part). Maybe its the physical exertion that has prematurely aged me (SHIIIIIIIIIIT, this going to hurt. *crunch* yep, that hurt...)

first-hand experience might also help. Ya know, got to try everything. Privately, I reckon thats how I learn. "aaargh, nope that was not the right way..."


Hmm i think not, i havent binned yet so i keep getting to confident..

Bad Cibby.. :devil2:

Not nice to hear about your bins thou mate!! glad your ok :)

Gremlin
30th October 2005, 02:38
yep, confidence chalked up two on me. Basically having fun and pushing beyond what my learner responses could cope with. But I've learnt heaps tho, and it has made me go the same speed or a bit faster, but with a lot more knowledge crammed into my short riding life.

course I'm OK (happened about 2-3 months ago), first was probably from about 60k ish, hurt a bit, had a bit of bruising on chest, second was minor.

Problem is the bike. It doesn't seem to fair as well... :sweatdrop The fairings on the right side are partly held on with clear duct tape (NOT kidding) and some more tape to stop cracks growing. Bike in shop for service, suspension stiffening, and rather importantly, fork straightening.

"Excursions" had made the bars a little out of alignment as such. :whistle: Can't wait to get her back to test mods a bit... :devil2:

Cibby
30th October 2005, 02:41
AHHH.. duck tape.

You are wise beyond your years.

wait.. i already said that..

In my highly professional opinion, i recommend not falling off or bining your bike

Thank you and good night

XP@
31st October 2005, 12:06
Ok so when you watch your mate hit a wall at 160km per hour and get totally frecked out by it..

What is the best way to get over that when i keeps replaying in your mind??

Just go and ride the next day on no sleep and go hard with new tyres that need a good scrubbing.. or just chill???

It will replay for a long long time.

Learn from his / her mistakes and improve your riding so you can minimise the chance of it happening to you.

So ride the next day but don't go hard out, instead try and ride like an old man. (if you watch someone who has been riding for the last 50 years, they must be doing something right, otherwise they would be a hood ornament)

ManDownUnder
31st October 2005, 12:52
Ok so when you watch your mate hit a wall at 160km per hour and get totally frecked out by it..

What is the best way to get over that when i keeps replaying in your mind??

Just go and ride the next day on no sleep and go hard with new tyres that need a good scrubbing.. or just chill???

Just chill - take it easy and learn from it. Keep riding, but listen a little when that "twinge" of fear hits you. Going too slow around a corner is forgivable, going too fast isn't... those damned laws of physics keep gettin' in the way. Not to mention trees, gravel rash and the insurnace co...!

It's your mate I'd also be worried about...

Drum
5th November 2005, 11:12
Have you sat your test yet Astolat?

Unit
6th November 2005, 08:56
What to do when you get a flat tyre?
Take helmet off, shake hair loose provocatively, unzip jacket to show clevage. Should work :cool:

Bonez
6th November 2005, 10:35
What to do when you get a flat tyre?
Take helmet off, shake hair loose provocatively, unzip jacket to show clevage. Should work :cool:
:not: :not: :not: :not:

M1CRO
6th November 2005, 14:12
What to do when you get a flat tyre?
Take helmet off, shake hair loose provocatively, unzip jacket to show clevage. Should work :cool:

And for those without cleavage, I guess we have to do it the old fashioned (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=402643&postcount=74) way :argh:

twist
16th December 2007, 18:35
I've hit false neutral a few times for sure, usually, engage clutch, change gear, but before I've finished, I've let the clutch out and it gets stuck halfway.

Clutchless shifting gets rid of it and gives you better acceleration... :devil2:
What is the story with clutchles shifting? I have a go-kart with a motorbike engine and it would be craploads easier to shift without worrying about the clutch. If going full noise is a requirement i already have that one covered :P

quallman1234
16th December 2007, 19:11
What is the story with clutchles shifting? I have a go-kart with a motorbike engine and it would be craploads easier to shift without worrying about the clutch. If going full noise is a requirement i already have that one covered :P

Its simple as man.
You usually wanna change gear when you have a postive throttle right?

The easy way to do it is roll of the throttle a little bit but still have some on, then change up a gear.
No problems!
Your get the hang of it.

With down shift's it would pay to use the clutch as your probably lock the back wheels under compression lock for half a second.

TOTO
6th January 2008, 01:02
Here are my latest questions:


1.
When people go to the track and race their normally road bikes they put some kind of black tape on the lights and the screeen. whats this stuff for? Seen in magazines and pics on KB? Can anyone answer ?

2.
when you are riding at night and on the road there is a possum what do you do? Toningt I had my first country night ride and nearly got a bin 3 times in a distance of 8km because of the bloody possums. lucky I was riding with 60 so I could swerve but at a 100 what showld I do ?


thanks


TOTO

chanceyy
6th January 2008, 06:30
Here are my latest questions:


1.
When people go to the track and race their normally road bikes they put some kind of black tape on the lights and the screeen. whats this stuff for? Seen in magazines and pics on KB? Can anyone answer ?
tape is put across the lens as in a crash it will stop glass going everywhere & holds it together, at a track day today would have seen it just about on all bikes .. dedicated race bikes have it removed permanently

2.
when you are riding at night and on the road there is a possum what do you do? Toningt I had my first country night ride and nearly got a bin 3 times in a distance of 8km because of the bloody possums. lucky I was riding with 60 so I could swerve but at a 100 what showld I do ?

do not swerve do not brake hard .. ride straight & if you hit it you will be ok ... discussed this today as I had a rabbit run in front of me on the track ... & this prompted this kinda discussion with more experienced riders..


thanks


TOTO

any experienced riders feel free to correct me above

madandy
6th January 2008, 07:03
Get off the saddle a little, standing on foot pegs, to centralise & lower your Centre of Gravity(like they teach on good riding courses) & ride right over the filthy bastards...

DEATH_INC.
6th January 2008, 07:50
I have only once experienced this and it happened to be on a XJ750 and I was doing around 150km on a country road.
My mate wrote his one off when it did this at 180k....farkin impressive length to the scrape marks up the road, musta been at least 200 meters before he went into the ditch...

DEATH_INC.
6th January 2008, 08:03
anyone got tips for riding on gravel/fist sized stones? not overly confident on either. a close friend has the fist stones for a drive way, and also gravel at the end of his road. i know enough to relax my grip on the bars and let them go where they need rather than try and control them, but what else is handy to know?
I agree with Motu on this one, stand up and get some speed up, relax and let the bike do what it wants (they're actually pretty smart) and you'll be sweet, don't grab big handfuls of brake though, be gentle and use the rear more than usual though it will slide a bit. Speed is the trick though, don't go too slow.

Jorja
6th January 2008, 08:21
No Mr Death Inc. If this were anywhere else in the world I would agree.
This is New Zealand.
First stop your bike by all and any means possible. Second get off your bike and assist the poor furry creature (who is probably suffering from post traumatic stress syndrome) Third wright a letter of explaination as to why you were riding your dangerous contraption on the road endangering these poor creatures.

riffer
6th January 2008, 08:48
Could be worse Jorja. You run over a possum in Aussie you're in a power of shit.

TOTO
6th January 2008, 22:32
Another Question:

My mate just bought a GSX250 and is happy to ride around with no licence at all - not even learner. I told him he will get fined but he is not too worried. Does anyone know what the fine is for driving a vehicle without a licence and are there any other penalties on his current full car licence? would they take his bike off ?

Madness
6th January 2008, 22:39
Another Question:

My mate just bought a GSX250 and is happy to ride around with no licence at all - not even learner. I told him he will get fined but he is not too worried. Does anyone know what the fine is for driving a vehicle without a licence and are there any other penalties on his current full car licence? would they take his bike off ?

Wrong class of licence = $500 & 25 demerit points (from memory). Wish him luck from me.

Drum
9th January 2008, 21:39
And tell your mate, no license = no insurance. How long would it take him to pay off a crash into the side panel of a Porsche?

boomer
9th January 2008, 22:06
Here are my latest questions:


1.
When people go to the track and race their normally road bikes they put some kind of black tape on the lights and the screeen. whats this stuff for? Seen in magazines and pics on KB? Can anyone answer ?

All to assist in aerodynamics. Black makes the bike look better and we all know black bikes go faster. The chicky above who answered was spot on. S people dont run over glass and people dont have to sweep it up in little pieces.

2.
when you are riding at night and on the road there is a possum what do you do? Toningt I had my first country night ride and nearly got a bin 3 times in a distance of 8km because of the bloody possums. lucky I was riding with 60 so I could swerve but at a 100 what showld I do ?

Do a bunny hop over the top of it.

LOOK where you want to go and go around it.


thanks


TOTO



10110011101

TOTO
9th January 2008, 22:36
And tell your mate, no license = no insurance. How long would it take him to pay off a crash into the side panel of a Porsche?

naaa , he likes to be illegal. Ive been tellling him for a week already but he is like : yea yea , some day... not clever I know. sooner or later he will meet Mr. :Police:

TOTO
10th January 2008, 23:20
Another newbie question i'm embarassed to ask:


If I want to put a screeming demon on my bike I read that "rejeting" is recommended.

Can you tell me what rejeting IS?

And where is the best place to do it ?

disenfranchised
13th January 2008, 07:50
Another newbie question i'm embarassed to ask:


If I want to put a screeming demon on my bike I read that "rejeting" is recommended.

Can you tell me what rejeting IS?

And where is the best place to do it ?

Nah, just the pipe change alone doesn't need rejetting..although making the bike run a bit richer will improve things slightly.
Your friendly neighbourhood bike mechanic should be able to adjust the jet positions to make it run richer after you put one on...and you can just wait until the next scheduled service to get it done.

Can't tell you exactly what rejetting is...
It's something to do with the jets in the carbs..probably replacing them to ones with a different flow/output or something

The Pastor
13th January 2008, 08:01
re jetting is replacing the jets / needles in your carbs.

Its not a hard process, but can take a long time, a dyno helps out heaps but its expensive.

breakaway
13th January 2008, 14:09
How long do you have once the Oil Pressure light comes on till your engine seizes?

Ixion
13th January 2008, 19:40
If it is an oil pressure light and not an oil level light, your big ends went out to lunch about 5 seconds ago.Maybe another minute at pace before it seizes or snaps a rod.

ital916
13th January 2008, 20:01
Jeez amit your bikes a mess dude haha buy a new one...a 250cc one that you can go just as quick on.

breakaway
13th January 2008, 20:47
If it is an oil pressure light and not an oil level light, your big ends went out to lunch about 5 seconds ago.Maybe another minute at pace before it seizes or snaps a rod.

So if you kill it straight away then there is not much damage? Sorry I don't understand what you mean by "big ends going to lunch"

What is the oil pressure light for anyway? Where is the oil being pumped to? By "big end" do you mean crank?


Jeez amit your bikes a mess dude haha buy a new one...a 250cc one that you can go just as quick on.

My oil light didn't come on, I'm just asking out of curiosity. Besides, the mechanical bits are fine, and I couldn't give two shits about the cosmetics right now. And I'm not going to buy another shitter 4 pot from 1987 which has been raped to within an inch of its life every day ever again, if I buy it will be a new, or at least with service history.

riffer
13th January 2008, 20:56
Big Ends are the bearings that go inside the conrod (the rod that goes between the crankshaft and the piston). This needs to have constant lubrication because in most bikes it consists of a couple of thin slivers of metal that rely on sucking up oil inbetween the two sides to work properly. The Big End (so-called because its the bigger of both ends) is the end that connects to the crankshaft. Yes - the little end connects to the piston.

If you don't have enough oil pressure, you will loose this protective layer of oil inbetween the crankshaft and the conrod. It get hot fast. And the metal goes funny. And it sticks.

Good news is - it's fixable.

Bad news is - it's expensive.

Ixion
13th January 2008, 21:03
OK.

Bike engines, two basic types of crankshaft. Plain bearings, like cars, and built up, with ball or roller races.

The latter use roller bearings for the big ends (the bits where the conrods rotate round the crankpin), and , usually ball races for main bearings (the ones that the crankshaft rotates in). These will not hold a pressure, and the lubrication system on these engines relies on flow not pressure. There are some exceptions, where the cam shafts run in plain bearings or direct in the head, these can hold some pressure, but generally a built up crank has very low (maybe 5-10 psi) oil pressure. So on these engines the light is usually an oil level light. Shows if the oil level is too low. Add more oil.

A plain bearing crank (like almost all cars have) is another matter. These use white metal shell bearings (always on the big end, often on the mains). A white metal bearing *ABSOLUTELY* relies on high pressure oil to avoid the metal surfaces touching and locally seizing. About 30 to 100 psi. Even the most momentary failure of pressure will cause serious damage, if the engine is under load or running at high rpm.

On a plain bearing crank, by the time you can react to the oil pressure light if it comes on at speed, your engine is wrecked. The big ends will be shot, and maybe other stuff.

An oil pressure light that comes on at low idle speed , or for a second or so when starting , is another matter. That may mean either low oil level, unsuitable oil, or just a worn engine.

Summary, on a plain bearing crank, if you see the oil light on when riding, you just toasted your engine.

breakaway
13th January 2008, 21:13
So there is a separate electrical oil pump in there? Or is it mechanically driven off engine bits? What are the chances of this pump failing?

Ixion
13th January 2008, 21:16
Almost always a mechanical pump (or pumps). Nowdays they very rarely fail.If they do, odds are it is because something else broke first and a broken bit got into the pump or its drive. Blockages are more common.

breakaway
15th January 2008, 13:12
Does doing frequent roll starts (I always used to roll start my RG150) damage drive train (Chain, Sprocket) components? As they are not really designed to take load going that way?

Ixion
15th January 2008, 13:14
Not really. The impact loading on a small two smoker isn't anything much. And a chain drive is bidirectional.

Trouss
15th January 2008, 20:50
Ok, this may have been asked already but I can't be arsed looking through the thread. Time is Money afterall.

Question: What is an easy way to remember to turn my bloody indicator off after going around a corner?? I find I leave it on for too long. :Oops:

chanceyy
15th January 2008, 20:52
Ok, this may have been asked already but I can't be arsed looking through the thread. Time is Money afterall.

Question: What is an easy way to remember to turn my bloody indicator off after going around a corner?? I find I leave it on for too long. :Oops:

develop a habit .. after I have changed up one gear I check my indicators .. its gotten me in the habit of turning off

NotaGoth
15th January 2008, 21:55
My bike is parked outside under our deck.. Its under a cover... How do I prevent the snails trails from ending up all over my bike...?

breakaway
15th January 2008, 22:01
Pesticide around the perimeter?

Warr
15th January 2008, 22:02
My bike is parked outside under our deck.. Its under a cover... How do I prevent the snails trails from ending up all over my bike...?
Sorry no super green reply available.. Just buy some slug bait .. Blitsen or something and scatter it around :)

Ixion
15th January 2008, 22:02
Hedgehogs.

James Deuce
15th January 2008, 22:03
Or salt the earth under your bike.

That'll learn them.

jrandom
15th January 2008, 22:06
How do I prevent the snails trails from ending up all over my bike...?

Ride a less exciting one.

NotaGoth
15th January 2008, 22:08
Ride a less exciting one.

About as close as you'll get to mums comment "ride with your pants on"

James Deuce
15th January 2008, 22:09
There's always one (and also a willing partner in crime).

NotaGoth
15th January 2008, 22:14
There's always one (and also a willing partner in crime).


It was actually a serious question. I'm forever having to wash them off. Got the (proper) answers I need now.

Horse
16th January 2008, 10:29
Don't leave slug bait lying around if you have a dog!! Dogs love slug bait, right up to the point where it kills them.

Most dog owners probably know this, but just in case....

vifferman
16th January 2008, 10:57
Don't leave slug bait lying around if you have a dog!! Dogs love slug bait, right up to the point where it kills them.
The same can be said for chocolate.

And my sister's first dog was killed by a sock.:blink:

Dodger
16th January 2008, 15:16
Question: TSS Motorcycles in Lower Hutt - What the hell does T.S.S stand for? :confused:

James Deuce
16th January 2008, 15:29
Ring up Stew and ask.

007XX
16th January 2008, 15:34
The same can be said for chocolate.


That's for sure. My sister in law's dog goes and hunts down chocolate wherever it is, and eats it, still wrapped in the packet foil and all...Then she has to follow the trail of "sparkly poos" :lol:

TOTO
17th January 2008, 16:33
That's for sure. My sister in law's dog goes and hunts down chocolate wherever it is, and eats it, still wrapped in the packet foil and all...Then she has to follow the trail of "sparkly poos" :lol:

funny, reminds me of that guy who had his marihuana eaten by his dog. he followed it for 3 days until he got it back...then he smoked it :blink:

Drum
17th January 2008, 18:14
Tommy Chong?

"It's mostly Labrador, man".

Conquiztador
17th January 2008, 22:31
Interesting thread!!!

My take on some of the issues rasied here:

Tank Slappers
Not enough rake of forks, giving you not enough trail. (Never get them on a custom with long forks!!) Add to that poor suspension and worn swing arm bushes and you are asking for it.

Snail trails on bike
As the snails do not jump down from the roof, but slither up from the ground, they either come up on the bike cover or the tyres (tricky little bastards!!) Make sure your cover does not touch the ground. And if they use the tyres, then perhaps put the tyres somewhere they can not go.

Oil pressure light coming on
Most, if not all, bikes have mechanical oil pumps. The pump is producing a pressure (by pushing the oil in to the motor, so the pressure is really as a result of that the pump is pumping oil in to a tight motor) that is monitired by a pressure switch. When the pressure goes below a certain level the switch turns on the light.
Some reasons the pressure can go down:
- Your motor has stopped, or your idle is too low. (The pump needs to run to provide pressure)
- Not enough oil. (No oil = no pressure)
- Blocked oil supply. ( As the filter is normally on the return to the tank/the sump, just for this reason, the problem is often a blocked supply line and not the filter.)
- Faulty oil pump.
- Wrong oil (gets too thin when warm)
- Big End bearings gone. As the resistance in the motor is now lower it reduces the oil pressure (But you would have noticed this as a increase in motor noise/vibration before this...)

In my old Bonnie I had the light turn on. I found that the valve that allowed the oil in to the pump but not out in reverse had failed (it is a ball bearing with a spring and there was some particles keeping it open). The old Triumph pumps were of plunger type. When I had fixed this I fitted a oil pressure gauge that allowed me to monitor the pressure so I was alble to see if it started to drop. I have on all my serious bikes since then always fitted one of these instead of a light as it gives me more control then a red on/off light. And the light might break and then what...

Forgetting to turn off indicators
The little Nifty 50 has a beeper that will beep when indicating. You try to turn off the fucker as soon as possible...

Re-jetting
Your bike needs a mixture of fuel and air to run properly. The carbi has fuel jets that allow the right amount of fuel to be introduced. Normally you have two jets: Idle jet (that is providing fuel when bike is idling and is main source of fule for the bike up to about 1/2 throttle) and Main Jet (that is the bigger one of them and is used from about 1/2 throttle to full throttle). When you change things in the motor that affects the performance you will almost always have to re-jet the carbi. If not, then the result can be a too lean fuel mix (in worst cases a hole burnt in the piston as the piston will overheat) or too rich fuel mixture (in worst cases a glazed barrel that will result in drop in performance and a re-bore). On a 2 stroke you can more easily change the jets without using a Dyno (a setup where the bike is monitored and exhaust is measured against the performance). A short trial run will often tell you what works best. But if you have more then one carbi on the bike, then I recommend to get a pro to do the job. But you can see what the motor does by monitoring how the spark plugs look (there is many charts available, even on the net) and by going up or down just one size in Main Jet you can often sort it out if the change to the motor has not been drastic.

Possums on the road
When in car I always try to run them over. On a bike I try to miss them. I recommend you do the same.

And agree with earlier posting: There is no stupid questions. Only way to find out!

Soul.Trader
20th January 2008, 20:09
Here's a sad question from a newbie/wannabe rider - how do you park a bike on a hill?

Ixion
20th January 2008, 20:16
Generally, go past the parking space, pointing uphill (regardless of which side if the road it is on ) and back in at about 45 degrees. That usually works OK for the side stand. But it will depend on bike, steepness, road camber.

Main thing is that you need the bike facing outward (so you can RIDE out) , and uphill (so the bike does not creep forward and collapse the side stand).

breakaway
20th January 2008, 20:21
I fitted a oil pressure gauge that allowed me to monitor the pressure so I was alble to see if it started to drop. I have on all my serious bikes since then always fitted one of these instead of a light as it gives me more control then a red on/off light. And the light might break and then what...

Ooh, sounds interesting, how would you go about doing this? Complicated? Sounds like it :o

YellowDog
20th January 2008, 20:33
Your insurance company should give you free puncture assistance and so will the AA.

xwhatsit
20th January 2008, 21:20
(so the bike does not creep forward and collapse the side stand).

Here's a silly question from a thumper-owner. I don't have a problem parking downhill, just let the bike roll forward until it hits compression. I know twins and multis don't have that strong compression `lock', as evidenced by ease of bump starting. Does this mean they can roll downhill in gear, as it would appear you suggest?

Ixion
20th January 2008, 21:29
Yep, they sure can. Two strokes especially. Not exactly "roll down hill", but creep forward slowly as compression leaks away. With a lot of side stands that'll cause the stand to swing back and the spring will pull it up. And down goes the bike. Better the nick the bikes in of course the less likely it is. But I've seen it many a time.

helps to turn the front wheel so it's facing up camber. But that can be a problem in itself on a hill.

Conquiztador
20th January 2008, 23:11
Ooh, sounds interesting, how would you go about doing this? Complicated? Sounds like it :o

Not too tricky. You will find the switch that turns on the red oil pressure light to be screwed in to its place in the motor where it can monitor the pressure. What you need to do is to unscrew this switch and get a sensor that has same thread. You can buy a sensor (sender) and a oil pressure gauge from places like Repco etc. They normally come as a kit as they need to be matched so that the reading is correct. There is two types: Electric one (some minor knowledge of wiring required, but there will be a instruction with a diagram inscluded) and a mechanical one (there will be a thin plastic tube that connects from the sensor to the oil pressure gauge that provides the pressure).

Once you have the bits, you replace the sensor/sender with the new one and you fit the oil pressure gauge somewhere you can easily read it while riding. Then connect up and you are away.

Check your manual what the oil pressure on your bike is supposed to be and buy a gauge that will go a fraction higher then that so that you get a good readout. No reason to buy one that does not allow for your max pressure or one where your pressure will only get the needle to just move at the bottom of the scale.

Good Luck.

Conquiztador
20th January 2008, 23:15
Yep, they sure can. Two strokes especially. Not exactly "roll down hill", but creep forward slowly as compression leaks away. With a lot of side stands that'll cause the stand to swing back and the spring will pull it up. And down goes the bike. Better the nick the bikes in of course the less likely it is. But I've seen it many a time.

helps to turn the front wheel so it's facing up camber. But that can be a problem in itself on a hill.

You can also fit one of those front brake leaver locks that are fitted on farm bikes if this is an issue for you on regular occasions (Your work parking is on a hill or similar). Then all you do is pull the front brake and push in the clip and the brake stays on.

Ixion
20th January 2008, 23:37
Or just kick a suitable rock under the rear wheel. Or tie the brake lever up with a bit of string. Sheesh life is so tecno nowdays.

Conquiztador
21st January 2008, 00:10
In the good old days we used to have prospects to make sure the bikes did not fall over where we parked them. It also cut the bike theft down to zero.

Ixion
21st January 2008, 00:15
Easier to find than rocks , too. And more dispensable.

gijoe1313
21st January 2008, 08:15
I find it best if you avoid parking on a hill if you can! :rolleyes: Mind you Wellingtonians cannae avoid such situations...

Soul.Trader
28th January 2008, 21:14
OK I have another newbie question - what's so great about USD forks, other than the look?

Drum
28th January 2008, 21:37
OK I have another newbie question - what's so great about USD forks, other than the look?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=65892

FilthyLuka
28th January 2008, 21:44
Re-jetting
Your bike needs a mixture of fuel and air to run properly. The carbi has fuel jets that allow the right amount of fuel to be introduced. Normally you have two jets: Idle jet (that is providing fuel when bike is idling and is main source of fule for the bike up to about 1/2 throttle) and Main Jet (that is the bigger one of them and is used from about 1/2 throttle to full throttle).

kinda, but not really. You got the main jist of it. Idle (or pilot) jet deals with 0-1/4 throttle, needle jet 1/4-3/4, main jet 4/4

However all jets affect the others, eg, messed needle jet may mean your idle is a bit lean/rich

Easiest way to figure it out is to just look at exploded diagramms or pull apart a carb, they aint no secret technology or anything, just a bit confuddling at first

swbarnett
29th January 2008, 22:04
I've always used my clutch for each and every gear change. I hear tell of riders that don't use the clutch, why is this?

Ixion
29th January 2008, 22:14
Racers change clutchless because it is fractionally faster, and they have no need to worry about wear or damage to the transmission. Non racers do so because they delude themselves that by so doing they magically acquire the skill and talent of Mr Rossi.

McDuck
29th January 2008, 22:15
I've always used my clutch for each and every gear change. I hear tell of riders that don't use the clutch, why is this?

Because they do not like there bikes gear box ;)

I would like to know the real answer to.

Maha
29th January 2008, 22:16
OK I have another newbie question - what's so great about USD forks, other than the look?

A suitable noob answer is....they are not the right way up.

swbarnett
29th January 2008, 22:18
A suitable noob answer is....they are not the right way up.
And here's me thinking that they were just paid for in US Dollars!

Maha
29th January 2008, 22:25
And here's me thinking that they were just paid for in US Dollars!


Brilliant........Bling sent.....:laugh:

Conquiztador
30th January 2008, 00:35
kinda, but not really. You got the main jist of it. Idle (or pilot) jet deals with 0-1/4 throttle, needle jet 1/4-3/4, main jet 4/4

However all jets affect the others, eg, messed needle jet may mean your idle is a bit lean/rich

Easiest way to figure it out is to just look at exploded diagramms or pull apart a carb, they aint no secret technology or anything, just a bit confuddling at first

Correct. I left the needle jet out of the equation.

Conquiztador
30th January 2008, 00:38
OK I have another newbie question - what's so great about USD forks, other than the look?

Less weight in lower legs that do all the movement, and so able to respond faster. Also as the bigger legs (thicker) are at the top there will be less flex in the forks.

Soul.Trader
30th January 2008, 14:17
Yet another question from me :no: Is there anything you can safely use on a motorbike to blacken tyres? I've always been a detailing freak with my cars, and grey/brown looking tyres get to me - but I'm not all that keen on sparying silicon on motorcycle tyres.

Drum
30th January 2008, 21:45
You'll get a lot of varied opinions on that one. Personally, I don't like anything slippery anywhere on my tyres.

phallic
2nd February 2008, 17:15
hi,

New to biking and also new to this site.

Not sure if this is commin and this is a dumb question so i thought i would ask it in this thread to start with.

Just got my bike and have noticed a kinda humming noise comming from it. After further inspection the humm is comming from the gas tank. Im guessing it is some of the vapour venting as the gas expands??

Is there anything i can do to stop this as its quite annoying?

Gubb
2nd February 2008, 17:18
It was just Vapour Lock, Vapour Lock, Vapour Lock...

[/Simpsons]

TOTO
3rd February 2008, 09:11
hi,

New to biking and also new to this site.

Not sure if this is commin and this is a dumb question so i thought i would ask it in this thread to start with.

Just got my bike and have noticed a kinda humming noise comming from it. After further inspection the humm is comming from the gas tank. Im guessing it is some of the vapour venting as the gas expands??

Is there anything i can do to stop this as its quite annoying?

Kawasaki dealer showld be able to help you ...:confused:

FilthyLuka
3rd February 2008, 15:44
hi,

New to biking and also new to this site.

Not sure if this is commin and this is a dumb question so i thought i would ask it in this thread to start with.

Just got my bike and have noticed a kinda humming noise comming from it. After further inspection the humm is comming from the gas tank. Im guessing it is some of the vapour venting as the gas expands??

Is there anything i can do to stop this as its quite annoying?

Drill a hole in the tank to let the gasses out :2thumbsup:

Seriously now, just take it back to the dealer and bitch about it. They will more than likely know what to do

whistlersmother
8th February 2008, 14:54
HI

I have a question I'm to embarrased to ask so am asking it on an internet forum.

My impulse's oil has gone white and milky and it has lost a few horses. It doesnt run so great.

Any advice?

I have a fear of bike shops. I can not take my bike into one. The mechanics either laugh or cry.

Cheers

Whistlers Mother

McDuck
8th February 2008, 15:01
HI

I have a question I'm to embarrased to ask so am asking it on an internet forum.

My impulse's oil has gone white and milky and it has lost a few horses. It doesnt run so great.

Any advice?

I have a fear of bike shops. I can not take my bike into one. The mechanics either laugh or cry.

Cheers

Whistlers Mother

Sorry to say but it sounds like the headgastet is gone. AKA the engine is buggered.

whistlersmother
8th February 2008, 15:05
Sorry to say but it sounds like the headgastet is gone. AKA the engine is buggered.

Really? Thats they type of thing I get told when I take it in to get new brake fluid. Do you work in a bike shop in wellington?

Finn
8th February 2008, 15:09
Really? Thats they type of thing I get told when I take it in to get new brake fluid. Do you work in a bike shop in wellington?

You're going to have to do better than this.

McDuck
8th February 2008, 15:10
Really? Thats they type of thing I get told when I take it in to get new brake fluid. Do you work in a bike shop in wellington?

No. One of the welli crew should be around to give advice. Maby PM jim2, he knows his stuff and is a top guy to!

mstriumph
8th February 2008, 15:13
hi,

New to biking and also new to this site.

Not sure if this is commin and this is a dumb question so i thought i would ask it in this thread to start with.

Just got my bike and have noticed a kinda humming noise comming from it. After further inspection the humm is comming from the gas tank. Im guessing it is some of the vapour venting as the gas expands??

Is there anything i can do to stop this as its quite annoying?


erm - let me guess - you're using BP aren't you? :whistle:

phallic
8th February 2008, 15:21
erm - let me guess - you're using BP aren't you? :whistle:


i couldnt tell you... still on the tank of gas it came with. Will make sure that i dont use bp though

Soul.Trader
8th February 2008, 15:22
Sorry to say but it sounds like the headgastet is gone. AKA the engine is buggered.

I dunno about that. Again, I'm completely inexperienced with bikes, but it's pretty uncommon in the car world to see an engine destroyed by a blown head gasket.

Maha
8th February 2008, 15:22
erm - let me guess - you're using BP aren't you? :whistle:


Check your bling!...LOL

mstriumph
8th February 2008, 15:23
i couldnt tell you... still on the tank of gas it came with. Will make sure that i dont use bp though

............ well, if you DO, make sure all the bees are OUTTA there before you close the tank ...............:dodge:

jrandom
8th February 2008, 15:44
I have a question I'm to embarrased to ask so am asking it on an internet forum.

Yes, dude, you should see a doctor about those little red spots.

:hug:

McDuck
8th February 2008, 16:13
I dunno about that. Again, I'm completely inexperienced with bikes, but it's pretty uncommon in the car world to see an engine destroyed by a blown head gasket.

Are you saying that a 20 odd year old bike is going to be worth repairing the engine on?

Conquiztador
8th February 2008, 16:25
HI

I have a question I'm to embarrased to ask so am asking it on an internet forum.

My impulse's oil has gone white and milky and it has lost a few horses. It doesnt run so great.

Any advice?

I have a fear of bike shops. I can not take my bike into one. The mechanics either laugh or cry.

Cheers

Whistlers Mother

Grey/milky oil = water in oil.

I suppose this one has water cooling. If that is the case then you have water going in to the motor. Normally as a result of a blown head gasket. That would also explain the loss of umph, as compression is down. Heads need to be taken off, new head gaskets fitted. Possible also have the heads machined as they might have been damaged as a result of the leakage. Sadly jap bikes normally do not allow the heads to be taken off without motor out of frame. So plan for a days job in the workshop. Say minimum $65/h x 8, add gaskets and some other bits and you are getting close to $1K. Or find a friendly KB chap/chapesse who will do the job for less if you don't know someone or have the skills.

Now if this girl does not have water cooling, then rain water is getting in to oil sump (or parhaps neighbours kids have had a pee in the sump...)

Conquiztador
8th February 2008, 16:29
Are you saying that a 20 odd year old bike is going to be worth repairing the engine on?

If it can be done cheap, then yes. But to take to the local bike shop will be questionable. I would do the head gaskets for $300 and a JD. Add to that any parts. (And I would not touch the JD before the job was done ;) )

McDuck
8th February 2008, 17:08
If it can be done cheap, then yes. But to take to the local bike shop will be questionable. I would do the head gaskets for $300 and a JD. Add to that any parts. (And I would not touch the JD before the job was done ;) )

Yes, and if my kat ever blows itself up i may take advantage of this ;)

Soul.Trader
8th February 2008, 18:33
Are you saying that a 20 odd year old bike is going to be worth repairing the engine on?

For someone bike savvy, sure. I've done my own head gaskets on my cars - it's not that big of a job. In fact, I've found that an easy way to make a quick buck is by buying cars with blown head gaskets - for some reason, people think it's the end of the world, and wind up seriously underselling their "wreck". The fact is, (on a car) it's a half day job to change most head gaskets. If the block/head dont need machine work, it's also incredibly cheap, because all you need is the gasket itself, some new oil and some new coolant. And I've found that in most cases, machining is not necessary.

Gubb
8th February 2008, 19:53
... Why are they called 'Buckets'?

McDuck
8th February 2008, 21:16
For someone bike savvy, sure. I've done my own head gaskets on my cars - it's not that big of a job. In fact, I've found that an easy way to make a quick buck is by buying cars with blown head gaskets - for some reason, people think it's the end of the world, and wind up seriously underselling their "wreck". The fact is, (on a car) it's a half day job to change most head gaskets. If the block/head dont need machine work, it's also incredibly cheap, because all you need is the gasket itself, some new oil and some new coolant. And I've found that in most cases, machining is not necessary.

yes but is sombody who dose not know enough to dignose it going to be able to change it? Not tryig to br harsh (hell i probebly couldnt change a head gasket ither) we need to assume that not everybody can do that sort of work on thair bike. (fark i want my spell check back)

McDuck
8th February 2008, 21:17
... Why are they called 'Buckets'?

As in the race? Because it started out as 'bucket of shit' racing because everybody just raced what ever heep of crap they had

whistlersmother
8th February 2008, 21:46
Grey/milky oil = water in oil.

I suppose this one has water cooling. If that is the case then you have water going in to the motor. Normally as a result of a blown head gasket. That would also explain the loss of umph, as compression is down. Heads need to be taken off, new head gaskets fitted. Possible also have the heads machined as they might have been damaged as a result of the leakage. Sadly jap bikes normally do not allow the heads to be taken off without motor out of frame. So plan for a days job in the workshop. Say minimum $65/h x 8, add gaskets and some other bits and you are getting close to $1K. Or find a friendly KB chap/chapesse who will do the job for less if you don't know someone or have the skills.

Now if this girl does not have water cooling, then rain water is getting in to oil sump (or parhaps neighbours kids have had a pee in the sump...)

Thanks for the diagnosis, I have the original tool kit and a hammer and a rake.

Will that be adequate tools to do the job?

Ixion
8th February 2008, 21:53
No . You will also need a spade and a small pair of tweezers. (note that a shovel is NOT a suitable substitute)

Conquiztador
8th February 2008, 22:08
Thanks for the diagnosis, I have the original tool kit and a hammer and a rake.

Will that be adequate tools to do the job?

Hey, if you are gonna do it your self (and based on your postings) the only thing you will need is a spade. I do appreciate humor, but if you consider asking silly questions, in a thread like this, funny, then I would not recommend you to give up your minimum wage day job.

CookMySock
9th February 2008, 20:42
is this a dumb question ?

Can I hear a radar detector (mounted near the speedo) at 90-120km/hr ? Anyone done this ? is it useable or do I need an earphone for it ?

I don't ride at high speeds (nads fully burned out) but will admit to rolling into 70k speed limit areas and being a little tardy at getting my speed back quickly. Also I find it amusing monitoring the fuzz while they are working. <_<

TIA,
DB

Ixion
9th February 2008, 20:45
I can. Somewhat. At 50 - 70 kph zone speeds I can hear it OK. On the open road, I can hear it, but its not loud enough to attract my attention. Which is of course, necessary. I have a helmet connection too.

But that is on the BMW which is a very quiet bike.

I think you need a helmet cable. Or a screamer.

McDuck
9th February 2008, 20:46
kiwifruit has picked his screemer at up above 200kph...

Delphinus
9th February 2008, 22:05
Screamer + HUD. I have setup so screamer goes off for 3 seconds, then shuts up and I use a few ultrabright LED's above my speedo flashing in my face to monitor it untill it turns off.
No arseing about with batteries for wireless device in helmet, or cables or anything. Just jump on and go.

When I get round to it I will post the schematic and instructions.

McDuck
9th February 2008, 22:07
But i would be going with a in helmet only system and a power switch cut off, with them becoming elegal now...

xwhatsit
9th February 2008, 23:36
I've got a couple.

#1: How do they put that little flange on the cylinder-head end of exhaust pipes? Is it a short seperate piece of tubing, bigger diameter, that they weld on? How do the weld it on with no marks on either side? It confuses me.

#2: Who's seen that Stagecoach repair truck (silver cab) around Auckland? It sounds like -- could it be -- a single-cylinder diesel? It sounds like a steam train. Chuffs merrily away up hills and at idle, except black diesel smoke pours from the top. What is this torque-monster?

CookMySock
10th February 2008, 05:24
Screamer + HUD. I have setup so screamer goes off for 3 seconds, then shuts up and I use a few ultrabright LED's above my speedo flashing in my face to monitor it untill it turns off.
No arseing about with batteries for wireless device in helmet, or cables or anything. Just jump on and go.

When I get round to it I will post the schematic and instructions.ok this sounds like the go. So it seems that any stock detector is just too quiet ?

Detectors becoming illegal ?? wtf? Is this real ?

DB

whistlersmother
19th February 2008, 16:15
HI

some of you will know from previous posts my bike recently blew a head gasket out the 2nd zorst port.

I strpped it down an steam cleaned it at work. an painted up old bits an even replaced a few things on the way.

I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.

\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?

McDuck
19th February 2008, 16:20
HI

some of you will know from previous posts my bike recently blew a head gasket out the 2nd zorst port.

I strpped it down an steam cleaned it at work. an painted up old bits an even replaced a few things on the way.

I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.

\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?

If you have a spare one on the shelf then go for it, but it is not hard to mess up if you do nt know what you are doing. Wouldnt polishing the head and making the carbis perfect give more power with less to go wrong?

bucket boy
19th February 2008, 16:39
I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.

\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?[/QUOTE]

YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING

whistlersmother
19th February 2008, 16:51
If you have a spare one on the shelf then go for it, but it is not hard to mess up if you do nt know what you are doing. Wouldnt polishing the head and making the carbis perfect give more power with less to go wrong?

they are twin port cv carb, i want 4port fat/flat/slab slide/side/cydes an they are expensive.

the bike was free.

no spare cam(s) but theres two!
will try the zorst side first as its only dirty old fumes goin out htat way hey!

Ixion
19th February 2008, 17:05
HI



\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?

The problem is that for more performance, you need more lift and more duration. That means more metal not less, which means messing about with hard facing welding electrodes.

A suggestion though (which does work, if the conditions are right). Valve lift and duration are determined not just by the camshaft, but , in many engines, by the cam followers/rocker arms also. And they are much easier to modify than the camshaft.

Won't work woith inverted bucket tappets , and won't work on every motor regardless. But some it does go a treat.

whistlersmother
19th February 2008, 17:11
The problem is that for more performance, you need more lift and more duration. That means more metal not less, which means messing about with hard facing welding electrodes.

A suggestion though (which does work, if the conditions are right). Valve lift and duration are determined not just by the camshaft, but , in many engines, by the cam followers/rocker arms also. And they are much easier to modify than the camshaft.

Won't work woith inverted bucket tappets , and won't work on every motor regardless. But some it does go a treat.

The lobes needs to be longer or wider or both?
what effect will hacking away the sides of the lobe do?

breakaway
19th February 2008, 17:13
Make it lighter? However I don't think that it will help your performance.

Rotor
19th February 2008, 17:16
Get a tyre repair kit ( tube less only) they are the best
and a bike pump:niceone:

whistlersmother
19th February 2008, 17:17
Make it lighter? However I don't think that it will help your performance.

my simple understanding of cams an what they do is open valves at certain time an for how long depending on the profile.
suzuki (any manufacturer) will have cams made to be responsive all over the rev range. sacrificing top end. i want to try get the top end humming away.

to get the cam made for top end only (bike will be a paddock basher) i want to know what to do.

ixion says make cam bigger. thats not available to me

if i steepen the curve profiole will it work towards whjat im aiming for?

Ixion
19th February 2008, 17:18
The lobes needs to be longer or wider or both?
what effect will hacking away the sides of the lobe do?

You need more lift (so the valve is open wider and more gas can flow in), and more duration (valve open for a longer time).

So the pointy bit needs to be higher and fatter.

Removing metal from the shoulders will reduce duration, your valve will not be open as long, so less gas into the cylinder, less power. And the valve coming down with a bang off the lobe will probably cause valve bounce at lower revs so the motor won't rev out.

Of cours eall of this probably results in a valve hitting a piston, or a broken cam chain, or a wrecked motor one way or other. It can be done, but you definately need to know what you a re doing. And expect to trash a few engines in the process of finding out what works. Or doesn't.

whistlersmother
19th February 2008, 17:25
You need more lift (so the valve is open wider and more gas can flow in), and more duration (valve open for a longer time).

So the pointy bit needs to be higher and fatter.

Removing metal from the shoulders will reduce duration, your valve will not be open as long, so less gas into the cylinder, less power. And the valve coming down with a bang off the lobe will probably cause valve bounce at lower revs so the motor won't rev out.

Of cours eall of this probably results in a valve hitting a piston, or a broken cam chain, or a wrecked motor one way or other. It can be done, but you definately need to know what you a re doing. And expect to trash a few engines in the process of finding out what works. Or doesn't.

Cheerssssssssss

Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!

Soul.Trader
20th February 2008, 11:54
Cheerssssssssss

Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!

Do it, and post pictures of the result.

ManDownUnder
20th February 2008, 12:01
Cheerssssssssss

Typically how much more metal on the lobe? supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!

Increasing the height of the lobe will increase the flow, but not as much as increasing the diameter of the valve itself. You also avoid a valve piston clash.

Lots of small valves opening a bit is better than one monty great big one too (high performance motors have lots of valves for a reason... or two)

CookMySock
20th February 2008, 12:53
cut the back off the cam and lower the lobe a bit, and then adjust the rocker up.

remove the valve stem boss.

DB

nodrog
20th February 2008, 13:25
supercheap sells welders for 400 i think!

surely this is a pisstake, you are too tight to buy another cam but you are willing to fork out 400 for a welder, another cam would be cheaper :lol:

Swoop
20th February 2008, 15:57
ok this sounds like the go. So it seems that any stock detector is just too quiet ?
Detectors becoming illegal ?? wtf? Is this real?
There is talk (from our servants in Wellington's round mental asylum) of this. Only talk though.

Detector. Does yours have an audio output socket? If so, Dick Smith is your friend.
$9- or so will buy you a nice earpiece unit. Viola!

headlesschicken
20th February 2008, 17:09
I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.

the bike was free.

spot the error:laugh:

I've got a couple: What is valve bouncing, and why is it beneficial when racing?
And what is double clutching? TIA:woohoo:

McDuck
20th February 2008, 17:42
spot the error:laugh:

I've got a couple: What is valve bouncing, and why is it beneficial when racing?
And what is double clutching? TIA:woohoo:

Valve bouncing is the valves moving at the max speed htey can go and being pushed to try and go more. Normaly results in damage to head if done much at all.

Dubble clutching is when you pull the clutch in change the engine revs to match the new gear then let the clutch out again helping the bits in the gearbox. Mainly used in bikes with worn or old gearboxes.

Padmei
20th February 2008, 20:36
Anyone recommend a battery that wont go flat while the roads are icy? how much for one of those battery maintenance things?

xwhatsit
21st February 2008, 22:17
One el-cheapo thing you can do with camshafts is to grind down the opposite side of the lobe. Then set your tappets again. Even better, grinding them down there, it doesn't matter that you're fecking up the hardening, as there's no pressure on them there.

Radar
22nd February 2008, 10:59
Here is my BASIC QUESTION:

How do you cope with specs and a full face helmet?

Years ago I rode with an open face helmet - it was the only helmet style way back then - so no problems with sunglasses or regular specs.

Now I am getting back into biking... got a helmet, found a bike, then the hassle of getting my prescription-and-expensive sunglasses or regular specs on. &%$#@#! I feel like cutting slots into the liner but this would not be a good safety idea.

It take me ages to put on my specs, having to fiddle with both hands trying to get the spec arms or whatever they are called positioned on my ears so I can see without distortion. Heavy sunglasses are probably no problem since you can just shove and jam right where you want them to fit but my specs are not so thick and heavy, and at around $900 to replace you can see the hassle and worry.

Any ideas? Will the helmet liner eventually ease up?

McDuck
22nd February 2008, 11:08
Here is my BASIC QUESTION:

How do you cope with specs and a full face helmet?

Years ago I rode with an open face helmet - it was the only helmet style way back then - so no problems with sunglasses or regular specs.

Now I am getting back into biking... got a helmet, found a bike, then the hassle of getting my prescription-and-expensive sunglasses or regular specs on. &%$#@#! I feel like cutting slots into the liner but this would not be a good safety idea.

It take me ages to put on my specs, having to fiddle with both hands trying to get the spec arms or whatever they are called positioned on my ears so I can see without distortion. Heavy sunglasses are probably no problem since you can just shove and jam right where you want them to fit but my specs are not so thick and heavy, and at around $900 to replace you can see the hassle and worry.

Any ideas? Will the helmet liner eventually ease up?

the short answer is yes, a little. About how you are doing now is the best way. Or get a helmet that has the hole face flip up. Cost more but worth it (aparently)

Radar
22nd February 2008, 11:14
Thanks McDuck. Don't want to pay more $$ on a new helmet at this stage but will check their prices. Going to shops or the petrol station, I want to keep my helmet on due to the hassle with my glasses. Short stints are OK I guess but of course it would not work in a bank and its dorky and uncomfortable to spend time browsing around in a shop with a helmet on!

Soul.Trader
22nd February 2008, 17:26
I've got a newbie question that's been bugging me since I got my bike. WTF is this thing for on the exhaust? Purely decorative? It looks like it's supposed to display a badge of some sort, but it would be much too hot for most materials.

McDuck
22nd February 2008, 17:30
I've got a newbie question that's been bugging me since I got my bike. WTF is this thing for on the exhaust? Purely decorative? It looks like it's supposed to display a badge of some sort, but it would be much too hot for most materials.

exhaust guard?

Maha
22nd February 2008, 17:31
Why is there no cheese in cheesecake?

McDuck
22nd February 2008, 17:32
Why is there no cheese in cheesecake?

because it was invented by a laber goverment ;)

Krusti
22nd February 2008, 17:32
Why is it that the older you get the more your shit stinks?.........

Maha
22nd February 2008, 17:34
because it was invented by a laber goverment ;)


Thank you....thats cleared that up for me, hxc where are you!.....:confused:

Maha
22nd February 2008, 17:35
Why is it that the older you get the more your shit stinks?.........


Apparently mine doesnt.....unless i have been on rum....:eek:

hospitalfood
22nd February 2008, 17:37
Why is it that the older you get the more your shit stinks?.........

because we are slowly dying, rotting from the inside out.
babys smell ok, but check out the smell in a really old persons house.

hospitalfood
22nd February 2008, 17:39
why do I keep getting my cock stuck in my bike ??

Soul.Trader
22nd February 2008, 17:40
exhaust guard?

Too small - it's just a tiny little removable odd piece.


Why is there no cheese in cheesecake?

??? There is cheese in cheesecake. Cream chese to be precise.

breakaway
22nd February 2008, 18:27
What happens if you accidentally start fueling up, and then realise you just dumped a couple liters of diesel into the bike? Obviously first thing is to close fuel tap (that is if the bike has one), what is the next step? Start draining? Drain float bowls etc?

Maha
22nd February 2008, 18:46
Too small - it's just a tiny little removable odd piece.



??? There is cheese in cheesecake. Cream chese to be precise.

Yeah, but not Edam or Cheddar or Blue Vein....:confused:

Trudes
22nd February 2008, 18:59
Is it ok for guys to dye their hair when it starts to go grey, or is that just gay?

Storm
22nd February 2008, 21:16
Its ok if they dont mind everyone knowing they're vain poofs

McDuck
22nd February 2008, 21:21
What happens if you accidentally start fueling up, and then realise you just dumped a couple liters of diesel into the bike? Obviously first thing is to close fuel tap (that is if the bike has one), what is the next step? Start draining? Drain float bowls etc?

If you put in bugger all then put in the highest octance you can and cross your finders.


I wouldnt try this with a bike but a car i would.


A bike i would just pull the fule hose of the tap, shove another hose on with it going t=into a bucket, set the tap to prime and drain the tank.

xwhatsit
24th February 2008, 11:57
The Diesel one has been answered by our own Grahameeboy by practical experimentation (not intentional, however). Check out this thread (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=48868) for details.

phallic
24th February 2008, 20:11
Check your bling!...LOL

ive been wondering this for a while but cant figure it out. what is ment by bling on here?

Trudes
24th February 2008, 20:18
ive been wondering this for a while but cant figure it out. what is ment by bling on here?

In the case you refer to it means rep points, the little green or red squares on your profile (Check user CP) and attached comment, otherwise it is cool stuff on your bike that you added.:niceone:

phallic
25th February 2008, 08:29
hey cool thanks for that. Glad to have it sorted :first:

Padmei
26th February 2008, 19:31
so with this bling thing what is the point of it? Are you super cool if you have heaps & norman no mates if you have none? Are there special priveleges if you get a few? Shit now I have to check if I've got any....

Trudes
26th February 2008, 19:54
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=60691
Hope that helps. No you can't trade your bling in for a toaster oven or a George Foreman grill, just means you a) talk a lot of sense b) talk a lot of shit that cracks people up or c) have a lot of KB friends.
Enjoy the comments, ignore the red blings and take what you will from the comments with those ones and spread the love around.

McJim
26th February 2008, 21:50
Okay, here's my dumbarse question. I'm into bikes but half way clueless about computers and the internet so I would like to know how to make this IRC shite work.

Ta in advance.

breakaway
26th February 2008, 22:21
Download this

http://www.silverex.org/download/xchat-2.6.8-1.exe

after installing + launching it, it'll come up with a box like so:

<img src='http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/8350/53062655sz9.png'/>

What you need to do his hit the "Add" button:

<img src='http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9978/83077928wh3.png'/>

And then, fill out hte "Name" and "Real Name" fields. Finally, hit the "Edit" button:

<img src='http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/121/15ej2.png'/>

Now fill out your window exactly like I have done mine:

<img src='http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/5057/39999541bl5.png'/>

And you're all done. Press the "Close" button. You'll get thrown back to the first window you got when you launched xChat. Just select the checkbox next to "Skip network selection on startup" as shown below, and hit connect:

<img src='http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/9060/19635006hv0.png'/>

If you did it correctly, you should be chatting with us now:

<a href="http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/5360/chatlani5.png"><img src="http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/5360/chatlani5.th.png"/></a>

Just beGiNing 250
26th February 2008, 23:02
Hello again.

The fuel switch on the side of my bike has three settings: On, reserve and pri which I presume is prime. Whats prime for? and why dont i have an off option?

Riding in Wind. I have to cross the harbour brigde on my way to work and the wind is crazy up there. Are there any tips for riding safe in high wind?

thanks

Usarka
27th February 2008, 06:58
The fuel switch on the side of my bike has three settings: On, reserve and pri which I presume is prime. Whats prime for? and why dont i have an off option?

In the On setting the fuel only flows to the carbs if the engine is running (vacuum being created etc). From memory Pri allows fuel to flow into the carbs even when there is no vacuum being created - this may needed if you are filling up after running out of gas.....


Riding in Wind. I have to cross the harbour brigde on my way to work and the wind is crazy up there. Are there any tips for riding safe in high wind?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=51642

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=30616

thanks
Sweet as

Soul.Trader
28th February 2008, 19:33
OK, yet another newbie question from me - I came accross an issue tonight. I pulled up to an intersection with red traffic lights. I waited for the light to turn green, which was taking an unusually long amount of time. I was the only one at the intersection. I soon realised that me and my bike weren't heavy enough to activate the pressure switch, and the lights weren't going to change until another vehicle approached. Eventually I had to run a red light - are there any other options in this situation?

Trudes
28th February 2008, 19:38
I've heard a rumour about putting the bike on the side stand triggers it. Could be an old bikers tale, anyone wish to confirm or deny?