GSX1400 rear shock upgrades?

[ARNIE]

hi people. Im looking to upgrade the rear shocks on my 2002 gsx1400, has anyone done this and what brand did you go for, price etc

thanks

[ARNIE]

Hi guys

Im looking to upgrade my rear shocks on the 2002 gsx1400, anyone know the best place to get twin shock upgrades.

thanks

[Robert Taylor]

hi people. Im looking to upgrade the rear shocks on my 2002 gsx1400, has anyone done this and what brand did you go for, price etc

thanks

Do you want cheap shocks or do you want well engineered and developed shocks that will actually work properly?

[98tls]

Do you want cheap shocks or do you want well engineered and developed shocks that will actually work properly?

:laugh:Beat me to it,was going to tell him to drop you a line.

[Robert Taylor]

:laugh:Beat me to it,was going to tell him to drop you a line.

To elaborate the stock GSX1400 shocks are certainly not the worst performing set of oem twin shocks, by any means. Because of that its very possible to buy low cost aftermarket shocks for these that perform appreciably worse than stock. This is very much a case of ''let the buyer beware''

[ARNIE]

well basically one of the shocks is leaking oil from it so I thought maybe an upgrade would be best. This is a daily commuter so safety is important but don't want spend large amounts as it not my only toy. I assume these oem shocks are repairable?

[Robert Taylor]

well basically one of the shocks is leaking oil from it so I thought maybe an upgrade would be best. This is a daily commuter so safety is important but don't want spend large amounts as it not my only toy. I assume these oem shocks are repairable?

Yes indeed they are, providing the shafts are not worn or rust pitted in the seal sweep area they can be repaired at reasonable cost. Unless you are prepared to spend $1400 or upwards on a set of twin shocks that will actually provide improved control and compliance rebuild is your best option.

[Kiwi Graham]

As the proud owner of 5 of these great steeds over the years;
The later model shocks were more reliable and better damped (red springs) than the silver springed version (pretty sure its wasn't just the paint colour ;) check ebay for these remembering buying overseas and or s/h is always a bit of a lottery.

Obviously the after market shocks are many and varied but if you going in that direction I would speak to just one man Rob Taylor from KSS

[Phantom Limb]

A lot of guys in the UK grab the rear shocks from a wrecked Yamaha XJR1300 for their GSX1400 rear end upgrade. Obviously the Ohlins on the back of the XJRs come in various configurations depending on the year and market the bike was sold in. The best models were the units with 'tool free' rebound, pre load and damping adjustability, they also have +- 10mm ride height adjustment built in.
There was an XJR being parted at 'Bike busters' in Ngaruawahia a while ago, could check there.

[Robert Taylor]

A lot of guys in the UK grab the rear shocks from a wrecked Yamaha XJR1300 for their GSX1400 rear end upgrade. Obviously the Ohlins on the back of the XJRs come in various configurations depending on the year and market the bike was sold in. The best models were the units with 'tool free' rebound, pre load and damping adjustability, they also have +- 10mm ride height adjustment built in.
There was an XJR being parted at 'Bike busters' in Ngaruawahia a while ago, could check there.

Yes that would work. They are a touch shorter though. Absolutely do not purchase the Japanese domestic market ''badge engineered'' Ohlins shocks that actually are not true Ohlins shocks. They were never intended for export out of Japan, then along came the free market. These ones have 12.5mm shafts and some 14mm, the springs are bigger diameter than the genuine product made in Sweden. Also the internal valving is very weak for the 50kg kamikazes riding them and the chrome on the shafts pits easily, rendering them as right offs.
The genuine Swedish shocks have 12,0mm shafts but also 14mm in the adjustable type.
With the genuine Swedish shocks on the main cylinder head casting will be stamped or laser etched a YA prefix followed by a 4 number suffix. Not to be confused with a batch code stamping on the opposite side. On receipt of that spec number we can tell you exactly what the shocks are and whats inside them. A reseller that has sincerity will be able to provide you such a spec number if they are genuine Swedish.
We offer a complimentary service to verify.
Alternatively we can offer new purpose built Ohlins shocks at a good price. PM me re that as there are people on here with a dutch auction mentality, I believe in a fair price for all parties with old world backup and recirculating the turnover back into the local economy.

[Sensei]

Have the below type Ohlins on all 4 of my Twin shock bikes .... one is the earlier sort after type with the sand cast heads & the other is the billet CNC type ... Both excellent improvement over stock

[rewdmc]

Brother there's nothing wrong with the standard shocks except the oil leak you now have.I had the same issue, lucky for me there was a simple fix.
Go to the "gsx1400.org" and search "shock fix" for a detailed explanation on the how to and the why.If it works for you then yahoo if not then you are still in the same boat.For anything 1400 related this site has it all,helpful friendly fellas too.Also check out the MCN settings they recommend for your suspension.Hope all goes well.

[Robert Taylor]

Brother there's nothing wrong with the standard shocks except the oil leak you now have.I had the same issue, lucky for me there was a simple fix.
Go to the "gsx1400.org" and search "shock fix" for a detailed explanation on the how to and the why.If it works for you then yahoo if not then you are still in the same boat.For anything 1400 related this site has it all,helpful friendly fellas too.Also check out the MCN settings they recommend for your suspension.Hope all goes well.

Yes I agree that they are ok shocks. But if you dont have the tools, training, experience and a keen eye for detail dont attempt to rebuild the shocks yourself. Suspension is a major safety item.

[nzspokes]

Brother there's nothing wrong with the standard shocks except the oil leak you now have.I had the same issue, lucky for me there was a simple fix.
Go to the "gsx1400.org" and search "shock fix" for a detailed explanation on the how to and the why.If it works for you then yahoo if not then you are still in the same boat.For anything 1400 related this site has it all,helpful friendly fellas too.Also check out the MCN settings they recommend for your suspension.Hope all goes well.

I just gave that a read. Nice site. Easy fix.

[mulletman]

A lot of guys in the UK grab the rear shocks from a wrecked Yamaha XJR1300 for their GSX1400 rear end upgrade. Obviously the Ohlins on the back of the XJRs come in various configurations depending on the year and market the bike was sold in. The best models were the units with 'tool free' rebound, pre load and damping adjustability, they also have +- 10mm ride height adjustment built in.
There was an XJR being parted at 'Bike busters' in Ngaruawahia a while ago, could check there.

This would be the go, or the 'ORG' fix then the 05 (?) onwards red spring type - i would still try the max to min range on the pre load on the red spring if kms cant be verified.

Earlier this year a friend of mine bought a wrecked XJR that had Yoshi shocks which included ride height adjustment, he hadnt noticed them but i did and let my other mate know with his 02 turbo that had worn shocks, i knew they would fit (straight swap) so they did a deal and swap.
I never new Yoshimura made twin shocks.

[rewdmc]

The reason I recommended the "ORG" fix was that is NOT an attempt to rebuild the shocks(a job for a pro) but simply refilling the preload adjuster with heavier oil.
The only safety issue is to be sure to have the preload backed RIGHT OFF before starting.
Of course if you are a mechanical two legged disaster with no right to have a spanner in your hand then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS,stick to crosswords.
I was just trying to help the guy out as he has nothing to loose and everything to gain,if it works then the money he saved could be spent on other bike improvements(pro suspension setup/rider training etc).
I take no responsibility for anyone's mechanical missadventure.











r

[ARNIE]

Hey guys, thanks for all the imput to this issue. I have tried the .org shock fix but that didn't work for me and Ive tried to get second hand stuff from the wreckers here and in aussie with no success. Robert Taylor I would very much like the ohlins and thanks for your info but budget and priorities put these out of the picture.
I have settled on a set of Hagon adjustable shocks which have completely changed the bikes handling so am pretty happy with the result, thanks Nic at NV Motorcycles in morrinsville for getting these for me. :clap::clap:

[kinger]

I fitted them to my XJR years ago. Good choice.

[Drew]

Hey guys, thanks for all the imput to this issue. I have tried the .org shock fix but that didn't work for me and Ive tried to get second hand stuff from the wreckers here and in aussie with no success. Robert Taylor I would very much like the ohlins and thanks for your info but budget and priorities put these out of the picture.
I have settled on a set of Hagon adjustable shocks which have completely changed the bikes handling so am pretty happy with the result, thanks Nic at NV Motorcycles in morrinsville for getting these for me. :clap::clap:

Out of curiosity, what are your plans for the old shocks?

[ARNIE]

I put them in a box and shoved them on a shelf

[F5 Dave]

So putting heavier weight oil in your shocks is going to do what?

Make anything that was orifice limiting currently, do it at a lower shaft speed.

Still, people used to recommend filling your forks with 50W & adding an inch of preload spacer.


nuthin to lose. cept some skin.

[Drew]

So putting heavier weight oil in your shocks is going to do what?

Make anything that was orifice limiting currently, do it at a lower shaft speed.

Still, people used to recommend filling your forks with 50W & adding an inch of preload spacer.


nuthin to lose. cept some skin.Na, confused me too. The "fix" from that other site, is for the hydrolic preloader only. That system is sealed from the damping fluid, and completely independant.

[F5 Dave]

Ah, ok, didn't want to go to that site unless I caught something. As you were.

[Robert Taylor]

So putting heavier weight oil in your shocks is going to do what?

Make anything that was orifice limiting currently, do it at a lower shaft speed.

Still, people used to recommend filling your forks with 50W & adding an inch of preload spacer.


nuthin to lose. cept some skin.

Yes, excellent point of generalisation about this age old misconception of filling with heavier oil. A good way to crash when you havent actually identified the real reasons and you've more often than not made the forks lethargic and non responsive.

I think it is better to be totally uninformed than ill informed. And certainly dont take ''advice'' from the ill informed. The same guys are probably also advising how to do ''do it yourself open heart surgery''. After all its posted on the net and everything on the net is authoritative...........and of course even the incorrect stuff is correct. ''Ive done my research on the net'' we all too often hear.

Adding heavy oil and preload spacers to sloppy undersprung forks is something we did in the 70S, when we all knew nothing about suspension. It wasnt a correct solution then and it certainly isnt now.

Frankly the ''she''ll be right'' attitude doesnt wash in this modern world

[nzspokes]

Yes, excellent point of generalisation about this age old misconception of filling with heavier oil. A good way to crash when you havent actually identified the real reasons and you've more often than not made the forks lethargic and non responsive.

I think it is better to be totally uninformed than ill informed. And certainly dont take ''advice'' from the ill informed. The same guys are probably also advising how to do ''do it yourself open heart surgery''. After all its posted on the net and everything on the net is authoritative...........and of course even the incorrect stuff is correct. ''Ive done my research on the net'' we all too often hear.

Adding heavy oil and preload spacers to sloppy undersprung forks is something we did in the 70S, when we all knew nothing about suspension. It wasnt a correct solution then and it certainly isnt now.

Frankly the ''she''ll be right'' attitude doesnt wash in this modern world

Did you miss the bit about it being the preload adjuster not the shock oil?

[Kickaha]

Did you miss the bit about it being the preload adjuster not the shock oil?

Did you miss the bit where he's talking about forks?

[Robert Taylor]

Did you miss the bit about it being the preload adjuster not the shock oil?

No, you missed my opening qualifying statement.

[rewdmc]

Who brought forks into this,for what reason???
The "org'' fix is NOTHING to do with forks.And NOTHING to do with dampening,pre load adjust only.
Find out what people are talking about before you put your 2 cents in.

[F5 Dave]

I did. And I don't answer to you.

[Robert Taylor]

Who brought forks into this,for what reason???
The "org'' fix is NOTHING to do with forks.And NOTHING to do with dampening,pre load adjust only.
Find out what people are talking about before you put your 2 cents in.

Not guilty but it bought up an important point about going too heavy in viscosity. As it is also safety related it is justifiable to talk about. If there is no call to help people from a suspension proffessionals point of view giving free AND SINCERELY INTENDED advice then Ive got plenty of other things to do. As has F5 Dave who most times has something very reasonable to offer.

If a preloader requires heavier oil Id ask why? Is it a ''Heath Robinson'' fix? Cheap fixes usually only deliver a cheap and temporary stalling of the inevitable.

[Drew]

If a preloader requires heavier oil Id ask why? Is it a ''Heath Robinson'' fix? Cheap fixes usually only deliver a cheap and temporary stalling of the inevitable.

I've got the shocks now. If the oil leak was from the preloader, it doesn't matter much since they are seized currently as near as I can tell. They don't back off at all.

[Robert Taylor]

I've got the shocks now. If the oil leak was from the preloader, it doesn't matter much since they are seized currently as near as I can tell. They don't back off at all.

Yep, sounds like a clutching at straws scenario and people listening to what they want to hear. ''Did you hear about the cheap fix? Worked for my mate''. Dont you just love forums.................

[Drew]

Yep, sounds like a clutching at straws scenario and people listening to what they want to hear. ''Did you hear about the cheap fix? Worked for my mate''. Dont you just love forums.................

I don't get how the cheap fix works anyway. If the preloader seals are fucked, they're gonna leak again anyway eventually.

[Robert Taylor]

I don't get how the cheap fix works anyway. If the preloader seals are fucked, they're gonna leak again anyway eventually.

But Drew, you miss the point. Everything that is on the net is correct, its a valuable source of research info, thats why you dont seek out a proffessional.

[Paul in NZ]

Yes, excellent point of generalisation about this age old misconception of filling with heavier oil. A good way to crash when you havent actually identified the real reasons and you've more often than not made the forks lethargic and non responsive.


Some of the 50's Triumph I've owned were improved sight out of mind by making the suspension lethargic and non responsive. When it was energetic and responsive it seemed to be actively trying to kill you where at least when it was stunned into submission you had a split second to fight back ;-) Just sayin....

[Robert Taylor]

Some of the 50's Triumph I've owned were improved sight out of mind by making the suspension lethargic and non responsive. When it was energetic and responsive it seemed to be actively trying to kill you where at least when it was stunned into submission you had a split second to fight back ;-) Just sayin....

Yes! That old stuff existed before damping was even in the dictionary ( there was no control )

[F5 Dave]

Ahh, it was made in England so it was naturally damp.