Which cooling fluid?

[G4L4XY]

Hey guys,

Looking at changing my fluids at the moment. I've changed the brake fluid fine. (however the fronts are still spongy, this may be due to 3mm being left on the pads not sure, they're due for a change though) (and the RHS nipple leaks when squeezing the brake thingy)

Which type of fluid should I be using for my bike. Should I go to a bike store or can anything be used (the manual says "use only high quality (expensive) ethylene glycol antifreeze containing corrosion protection inhibitors for use in aluminum engines)

Which brand do you use?

[G4L4XY]

I think visiting your local bike shop would be a good option, see what they have in stock/advise. You could check out their website also, here is a link.

http://www.hondahamilton.co.nz/store/product.aspx?ProductId=481

[Akzle]

wet green stuff.
End of.

[F5 Dave]

Whoa, serious personality defect there? Are you answering your own questions in 3rd person?

Or are you silly enough to let your flatmate on your log-on?:Pokey:

$18 worth of Castrol antifreeze from M10 would be just dandy. Or anything else from a bike shop or for that matter a carshop.

You don't mention which bike, but often it is a good idea to flush system both directions with a hose for a while. 90s Yams seem to corrode & colour the water for instance so it is best to take out the thermostat & flush both ways.


WAIT! Did you write :

. . . (and the RHS nipple leaks when squeezing the brake thingy)
?!??!?!

Does this not seem excedingly dangerous to you? It should. Take the nipple out & inspect the surface & the caliper surface. Find out why, clean or replace as required. Don't ride it like this.

[AllanB]

wet green stuff.
End of.

Stuff I use is blue.

Elf brand. Premixed motorcycle coolant.

Your local bike shop will stock suitable coolant. Also pop down to Supercheap and buy a 5 litre container of distilled water and once you empty the existing coolant run the water through the system to flush out the existing coolant. Once running clear, drain all water and fill with your new coolant.
when filling up do it slowly to avoid getting air in the pipes/engine and don't forget to burp the system.

[TimeOut]

I'd be seriously concerned about the spongy brakes.
It's not the pads you have air in the system that needs to come out

[G4L4XY]

Whoa, serious personality defect there? Are you answering your own questions in 3rd person?


WAIT! Did you write :
?!??!?!

Does this not seem excedingly dangerous to you? It should. Take the nipple out & inspect the surface & the caliper surface. Find out why, clean or replace as required. Don't ride it like this.

yes answering my own post because noone else does :(

The nipple leaks when I have it open when bleeding the brakes, not when I'm riding :)

[F5 Dave]

what do you mean open? You are very strange.

[SMOKEU]

If the manual doesn't specify which coolant to use, then use any ethylene glycol coolant mixed 50:50 with water (unless of course it's premixed coolant that doesn't need any water added).

[Akzle]

If the manual doesn't specify which coolant to use, then use any ethylene glycol coolant mixed 50:50 with water (unless of course it's premixed coolant that doesn't need any water added).

now thatd depend on your altitude and the season there now space cadet.

[Katman]

And another point to remember, the stronger you mix engine coolant the less effective it is in doing it's job of cooling the engine.

[Banditbandit]

The nipple leaks when I have it open when bleeding the brakes, not when I'm riding :)

That's not a leak - that's supposed to happen.

When you squeeze the brake lever it pressurises the system - open the valve and it pumps out brake fluid as well as air - when it pumps out only fluid and no air then you have completed the job and there is no air in the system. (When I set up brakes I run a small tube from the valve to an older clean plastic brake fluid container so I can reuse the good fluid - but I do dump old fluid. )

If your brakes are still spongey after you've bleed them then you still have air in the system.

[F5 Dave]

But the left doesn't do it? Nah I'm starting to think this chap should put down the spanners & take it to a mechanic.

[Banditbandit]

Yeah. Messing up working on an engine can be expensive. Messing up working on brakes can be fatal.

[ktm84mxc]

You can use Motul's mix as well most bike shops can get it for you.
Bleeding brake lines is a job best done right as the results of a poor job may not give you a chance to fix it.

[Road kill]

I get mine from the big drum at work,,,it's green so it must be good:niceone:.

[G4L4XY]

That's not a leak - that's supposed to happen.

Not sure if you understand my explanation. It's leaking from around the base of the nipple ie I'm not talking about the fluid going into the clear tube, this is normal.


Yeah. Messing up working on an engine can be expensive. Messing up working on brakes can be fatal.

They're exactly the same from when I started on them. Also I've tested them and I'm still alive

[cbfb]

Might be best to take it to a pro. On a trailer don't ride it like that.

Sorry but brakes are the last thing you want to dick around with if you're not 100% sure. If it makes you feel better I got a mate to help with mine a few days ago cause I don't trust what I was up to.

[Banditbandit]

Not sure if you understand my explanation. It's leaking from around the base of the nipple ie I'm not talking about the fluid going into the clear tube, this is normal.

Yes - that's much clearer .. no they should not be doing that .. that is why the brakes are a little spongy - the pressure is going out this leak ... I would not ride a bike doing that any further than the nearest workshop ...




They're exactly the same from when I started on them.


So .. the same ae . after all that work .. what was the point then ???



Also I've tested them and I'm still alive


Yes - I think that is a self-evident statement. I did say "can be fatal" rather than "would be fatal" ...

How are the brakes in an emergency stop then ??? You will only really know if you've had to stand on everything in the last week or so ..

[G4L4XY]

Yes - that's much clearer .. no they should not be doing that .. that is why the brakes are a little spongy - the pressure is going out this leak ... I would not ride a bike doing that any further than the nearest workshop ...

Fair enough. It only leaks when I've loosened the nipple to start the bleeding process. It doesn't leak when it's tightened up.


[QUOTE=Banditbandit;1130601115]So .. the same ae . after all that work .. what was the point then ???

How was I supposed to know it wasn't going to work without doing it?



Yes - I think that is a self-evident statement. I did say "can be fatal" rather than "would be fatal" ....

Smartie pants


How are the brakes in an emergency stop then ??? You will only really know if you've had to stand on everything in the last week or so ..

They still work fine it's just the amount you (I) need to pull the lever in before the brakes begin to work (which was the whole point in bleeding the brakes to get rid of this excess in the brake lever)

[F5 Dave]

So when you loosen the nipple it is going up the threads as well as the inner. You didn't explain it particularly well in the first instance so it wasted a bit of time & frankly people's desire to help. I'm out.

[G4L4XY]

So when you loosen the nipple it is going up the threads as well as the inner. You didn't explain it particularly well in the first instance so it wasted a bit of time & frankly people's desire to help. I'm out.

Thats correct it only leaks when loosening the nipple, when it's tight it doesn't leak...Couldn't explained it a bit better sure not really a huge deal.... Thats fine thanks for your comments... You didn't help in the first place

[F5 Dave]

. . .. You didn't help in the first place
Actually I gave some good advice you don't often find in service manuals about flushing the cooling system, I also showed concern at some of your comments about your brakes which sounded like a safety issue.

I'm sorry I tried to help you & sorry that I looked back here after unsuscribing. I don't frequent these threads because I'm paid, or for some Ego trip. I do it to try help out, as I used to when I volunteered time to teach people to ride back in the day. I am actually a nice guy & many people tell me that.

So I choose my words carefully when I finish by saying - Fuck you, you ungrateful little cunt.

[TimeOut]

Actually I gave some good advice you don't often find in service manuals about flushing the cooling system, I also showed concern at some of your comments about your brakes which sounded like a safety issue.

I'm sorry I tried to help you & sorry that I looked back here after unsuscribing. I don't frequent these threads because I'm paid, or for some Ego trip. I do it to try help out, as I used to when I volunteered time to teach people to ride back in the day. I am actually a nice guy & many people tell me that.

So I choose my words carefully when I finish by saying - Fuck you, you ungrateful little cunt.

Well said

If you have spongy brakes (as stated) after bleeding, you have either done it wrong (highly likely) or something is wrong with the system!

Get someone to sort it pronto

[cbfb]

Thats correct it only leaks when loosening the nipple, when it's tight it doesn't leak...

I've seen this, i.e. a slight air leak coming up through the threads. And there was a very very slight leak when it was tight which could well be the case with yours only so small you might not even notice it. Only reason I saw it on mine was I happened to get some brake fluid around the thread accidentally and noticed tiny, slow air bubbles. I replaced the nipple with a spare one (or better still use a brand new one)... end of story. Had me scratching my head for a while but something must have been duff with that original nipple.

I still get my local mechanic to check my brakes because well... i work with computers not spanners and i quite enjoy life

[Banditbandit]

So when you loosen the nipple it is going up the threads as well as the inner. You didn't explain it particularly well in the first instance so it wasted a bit of time & frankly people's desire to help. I'm out.


I feel much the same .. AE4Me - you keep adding information whch significantly changes things .. If you'd been clear to start off you might have got more useful advice because we would have known exactly what the issue was.


They still work fine it's just the amount you (I) need to pull the lever in before the brakes begin to work (which was the whole point in bleeding the brakes to get rid of this excess in the brake lever)

I'll try one more time ... replace the nipple with a new one ... if you have pipe tap a small piece aroud the threads will also help if the issue is not on the nipple but with the threads in the slave cylinder - this should only be a tempiorary solution before you get it seen too professionally ..

Do you have adjustment on the brake lever itself??? Possibly a knob you can turn with numbers on it ??? If so, crank it up to a higher number ...

Otherwise - get professional help ... I mean mechancal professional help ..

[Road kill]

Buy new bleed nipples,get some with inbuilt seals,they won't leak when you release them an their cheap as.

Bleed an pump it up as well as you can then tie the brake lever back as hard as you can with a couple of big zip ties.

Leave over night then let the lever off in the morning,top the fluid up an ride the thing.