1971 Kawasaki A7 Avenger

[Mike.Gayner]

In an effort to keep me off a sports bike, my old man has very generously given me his 1971 Kawasaki A7B Avenger. The engine runs and it's a pretty good starting point for a restoration. I'm not going to go nuts with this, but I'll strip it down and clean everything up, and hopefully get it back on the road in relatively short order.

Are there many of these around? Any members on here own this or a Samurai? The two-stroke twins sure seem to be an uncommon bike these days. I'm worried about finding parts, but there seem to be a lot of bits available on ebay (for a price).

This is the bike, currently sitting in my dad's garage. Definitely looking forward to shifting it into my own garage as soon as I've done a bit of a clean-up at home.

http://i.imgur.com/PA9vA6n.jpg

289213

[MIXONE]

Looks to be a real nice starting point for a resto job mate. Lucky you.

[ellipsis]

...lucky you...

[unstuck]

Very nice, seem to remember having a ride on one when I was a lot younger. It was a noisy, smelly, rattly thing, and I loved it. Good score.:niceone:

[swarfie]

In an effort to keep me off a sports bike, my old man has very generously given me his 1971 Kawasaki A7B Avenger. The engine runs and it's a pretty good starting point for a restoration. I'm not going to go nuts with this, but I'll strip it down and clean everything up, and hopefully get it back on the road in relatively short order.

Are there many of these around? Any members on here own this or a Samurai? The two-stroke twins sure seem to be an uncommon bike these days. I'm worried about finding parts, but there seem to be a lot of bits available on ebay (for a price).

This is the bike, currently sitting in my dad's garage. Definitely looking forward to shifting it into my own garage as soon as I've done a bit of a clean-up at home.

http://i.imgur.com/PA9vA6n.jpg

289213

My Dads uncle bought one new and then passed it on to a mate of mine. Cool bikes that go pretty well. If it's got one gudgeon bush instead of a needle roller bearing it's likely to be the same one. My Dad made a bush for one conrod when the bearing poohed. The mud-guards on these and other Kwakas are stainless, not chromed steel and polish up well. Best of luck with the resto

[Mike.Gayner]

Swarfie, I'll keep my eyes open when I do the engine and let you know.

[F5 Dave]

Very generously? That's an understatement. We hate you.

[pete376403]

First things you should be buying are an alarm and a big fuck-off lock for your garage.

I'm with F5 Dave on this - hate you.

[Mike.Gayner]

There bikes aren't terribly valuable though are they? I mean, they're pretty uncommon, but not all that widely desired. Or am I wrong? Have I stumbled on a hell of a gem?

Not that it matters much - I love the bike and have no desire to sell it in the medium to long term.

[eelracing]

There bikes aren't terribly valuable though are they? I mean, they're pretty uncommon, but not all that widely desired. Or am I wrong? Have I stumbled on a hell of a gem?

Not that it matters much - I love the bike and have no desire to sell it in the medium to long term.

Clearly you are conflicted and the blame has to lay at your old man's feet.
Sports bikes are piss easy to ride and heaps safer than some old nail...wanna swap for a Gixxer???

[ellipsis]

...that bike is a beauty to behold, and worth whatever some clown, somewhere, will pay for it...if yer into jappy classics, that is...(I was, but I'm cured now... I think...)

[98tls]

You lucky bugger shes a gem,look after it.

[MIXONE]

Google it.You may be in for a bit of a shock.Don't sell it and don't let your mates ride it.

[Mike.Gayner]

Clearly you are conflicted and the blame has to lay at your old man's feet.
Sports bikes are piss easy to ride and heaps safer than some old nail...wanna swap for a Gixxer???

I think he's betting on me taking it apart and never getting it back together. The ultimate in safety.

[Grubber]

Google it.You may be in for a bit of a shock.Don't sell it and don't let your mates ride it.

I used to own one of them as a young fella.
Reckon it would be safer on a Superbike myself.
Bit of a score i must say. gis a yell when your sick of it and i might take it off your hands.

[roogazza]

In the days when we were all on Jap 250s my mates old man bought him a brand spanking Avenger 350. It had chrome sided tank so must have been 1968, I'm thinking ?
We had a bit of road outside Stokes Valley that we used to test for speed and a mate came back claiming he was way faster than our 250s !!!!! I remember it turned out the speedo was out by about 30mph !!!
But it was very fast for the time, I remember that. First of the Japanese 350s.

[Mike.Gayner]

It had chrome sided tank so must have been 1968, I'm thinking ?

That'd be about right. The rounder, chromed tanks were on the models from 1967 to I think 1969.

[F5 Dave]

Yes the triples are what people did the big rush on, but they were technically inferior to the twins & people are realising this.

I'd pine for a Bridgestone 350 GTO or GTR, but these are right up there.

[iranana]

Ya lucky bastard, the old two stroke twins are a serious blast from the past. Fix it, ride the shit out of it and enjoy it. It'll put a smile on your face every time you kick it over and hear that sweet two stroke burble from the pipes. Undoubtedly far more dubious to ride than a modern sports bike, and so much more fun as a result. I'm very fond of old smokers. Keep it safe - while they aren't very desirable for a thief looking to make proper cash (and most of em these days probably wouldn't know what it is), they aren't that hard to steal. Old bikes aren't the most secure of things.

[SPman]

Yes the triples are what people did the big rush on, but they were technically inferior to the twins & people are realising this.

I'd pine for a Bridgestone 350 GTO or GTR, but these are right up there. A well tuned stock A7 was faster than a 350 triple - although the 350 triple handled better! (well, I thought so). 350 Bridgestone......mmmmmmmmm...............Bridgesto ne should have kept to making bikes - these were gems!

[F5 Dave]

yeah a spare set of alternate pipes and bars from the other model & you could swap the look around (I mean, while I'm dreaming y'know).

[Paul in NZ]

A well tuned stock A7 was faster than a 350 triple - although the 350 triple handled better! (well, I thought so). 350 Bridgestone......mmmmmmmmm...............Bridgesto ne should have kept to making bikes - these were gems!

They stopped making bikes to secure the tyre business. Honda/kawasaki/suzuki/yamaha told them if you keep making bikes we will start making tyres... erk....

Yeah - they were good bikes (that gearbox idea was bloody stupid though)

[Crasherfromwayback]

AWESOME score mate! Congrats.

[F5 Dave]

. .
Yeah - they were good bikes (that gearbox idea was bloody stupid though)wasn't on the bigger bikes. Also they were not making any profit I believe as not penny pinching as much with finish etc.

[nodrog]

In an effort to keep me off a sports bike, my old man has very generously given me his 1971 Kawasaki A7B Avenger. The engine runs and it's a pretty good starting point for a restoration. I'm not going to go nuts with this, but I'll strip it down and clean everything up, and hopefully get it back on the road in relatively short order.

Are there many of these around? Any members on here own this or a Samurai? The two-stroke twins sure seem to be an uncommon bike these days. I'm worried about finding parts, but there seem to be a lot of bits available on ebay (for a price).

This is the bike, currently sitting in my dad's garage. Definitely looking forward to shifting it into my own garage as soon as I've done a bit of a clean-up at home.

http://i.imgur.com/PA9vA6n.jpg

289213

can I have it?

[Mike.Gayner]

can I have it?

You may not.

[ellipsis]

...well there you go Mike.Gayner...now you know...go and make it beautiful and ride it...you would be just about on cheap rego for that age?...

[Mike.Gayner]

...well there you go Mike.Gayner...now you know...go and make it beautiful and ride it...you would be just about on cheap rego for that age?...

Not sure, someone here can tell me? Can't find any info on the NZTA website.

[swarfie]

Not sure, someone here can tell me? Can't find any info on the NZTA website.

Correct..it's more than 40 years old so on cheap rego now, about $111 for my 500 Velocette Venom. Should be about the same :niceone:

[merv]

Lol while we all have fond memories of these lovely 2 strokes the reality was time was a different speed and we expected to have to keep buying new models year after year. There things just wore out quickly and went off song. 5000 mile rebores were common. Whether modern oils and parts have helped I'm not sure. No one rode them for any length of time before buying another bike. Nowadays we can keep our 4 strokes forever and don't need rose tinted glasses for it.

[husaberg]

First things you should be buying are an alarm and a big fuck-off lock for your garage.

I'm with F5 Dave on this - hate you.


Very generously? That's an understatement. We hate you.

same............Not often i agree with Dave........

[ellipsis]

Lol while we all have fond memories of these lovely 2 strokes the reality was time was a different speed and we expected to have to keep buying new models year after year. There things just wore out quickly and went off song. 5000 mile rebores were common. Whether modern oils and parts have helped I'm not sure. No one rode them for any length of time before buying another bike. Nowadays we can keep our 4 strokes forever and don't need rose tinted glasses for it.

...obviously you have great antibodies to repel the illness...pragmatism has fuck all to do with it...keep on dieseling, trouble free, forevermore...

[robinm]

Ah the A7. First bike I did the magical "ton" on. On Porangahau beach, wearing a pair of shorts, no shoes, no shirt, was wearing a helmet though so I was all safe. This would have been about 1976 or 1977.

[Mike.Gayner]

I haven't taken any good pictures yet, but I got this quick video of starting her up after quickly cleaning up the carbs and replacing the spark plugs.

I have truly stumbled upon a sweetheart - it runs really quite beautifully. I might even go back on my plans of restoring her for now and just get it VIN'd and ride for the summer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sqp-JD7Hhc

[Ocean1]

Looks cool mate, not too much to do there eh?

The brake lever. New one, don't try to straighten it.

[Mike.Gayner]

Blogging my adventure here: http://a7avenger.wordpress.com/

[Crasherfromwayback]

. I might even go back on my plans of restoring her for now and just get it VIN'd and ride for the summer.

l]

Only my opinion of course...but I reckon unrestored original bikes are far cooler! It's tidy enough as it is!

[Mike.Gayner]

Only my opinion of course...but I reckon unrestored original bikes are far cooler! It's tidy enough as it is!

My (car) mechanic, who is also a 2-stroke lover, reckons I should do as little as possible to it. In his opinion it holds its value better un-restored. I don't really give a crap about the value, but there is something undeniably cool about "original" (ie slightly tatty) classic japs.

[Crasherfromwayback]

My (car) mechanic, who is also a 2-stroke lover, reckons I should do as little as possible to it. In his opinion it holds its value better un-restored. I don't really give a crap about the value, but there is something undeniably cool about "original" (ie slightly tatty) classic japs.

I'd always pay more for an unrestored tidy example mate. I've got a factory works bike I'll never restore for that very reason!

[iranana]

My (car) mechanic, who is also a 2-stroke lover, reckons I should do as little as possible to it. In his opinion it holds its value better un-restored. I don't really give a crap about the value, but there is something undeniably cool about "original" (ie slightly tatty) classic japs.

I totally agree, there's something a bit weird about them when they're perfectly shiny and all the paint is flawless. Get it running like a top, and then just keep the cosmetic things under control so it doesn't turn into a rust bucket. My RD is pretty shabby, but it runs great and is a solid bike, and that's what counts :thumbsup:

[Crasherfromwayback]

I totally agree, there's something a bit weird about them when they're perfectly shiny and all the paint is flawless. Get it running like a top, and then just keep the cosmetic things under control so it doesn't turn into a rust bucket. My RD is pretty shabby, but it runs great and is a solid bike, and that's what counts :thumbsup:

Fuck yeah! Pictures please!?

[eelracing]

I haven't taken any good pictures yet, but I got this quick video of starting her up after quickly cleaning up the carbs and replacing the spark plugs.

I have truly stumbled upon a sweetheart - it runs really quite beautifully. I might even go back on my plans of restoring her for now and just get it VIN'd and ride for the summer.[/url]

Mate i'm probably wrong but I swear I could hear a squeak-squeak sound (I put headphones on)at the 9 second mark of your video.
And is that a weep mark on the left pots fins at the head gasket??? I can't see for sure you moved the camera around to fast.
Poss. leaky gasket,if so i'd be replacing before any rides.

[Mike.Gayner]

Mate i'm probably wrong but I swear I could hear a squeak-squeak sound (I put headphones on)at the 9 second mark of your video.
And is that a weep mark on the left pots fins at the head gasket??? I can't see for sure you moved the camera around to fast.
Poss. leaky gasket,if so i'd be replacing before any rides.

Wow good eye - but it doesn't appear to be a leaky gasket - there are deposits well above the gasket and around the left side of the exhaust - it looks like the exhaust has a (very) slightly imperfect seal and a small amount of crap gets blown onto the engine, which would account for any squeaking (I haven't been able to detect any noise myself though).

[ktm84mxc]

I believe it's called a Patina what you get from use and age , something you can't fake.
I prefer an old bike to be an old bike with a history of it's own making with all the dings and scrapes and to be used as intended , otherwise it's just a statue/art work.

[iranana]

Fuck yeah! Pictures please!?

Don't mean to thread hijack, but here ya go. Doesn't have the original mirrors, and I'm in the process of fixing up the seat as the base was rusted as fuck and the seat cover tore. Looks better in the photos, especially the chrome. A previous owner repainted the tank off white and stuck the decals on crooked, but one day I'll correct that.

[Mike.Gayner]

Don't mean to thread hijack, but here ya go.

No skin off my nose, that's a nice 250.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Don't mean to thread hijack, but here ya go. Doesn't have the original mirrors, and I'm in the process of fixing up the seat as the base was rusted as fuck and the seat cover tore. Looks better in the photos, especially the chrome. A previous owner repainted the tank off white and stuck the decals on crooked, but one day I'll correct that.

I'm sure he won't mind a quick perv at another choice old two stroke! Looks great mate!

[Mike.Gayner]

I'm having trouble getting this thing back on the road. I don't have the original number plate or any paperwork other than a sales receipt from the previous (registered) owner. The guy at VTNZ couldn't find the frame number in his system and says I need the original number plate, or some documentation with the original plate number on it. This is ridiculous - anyone know what my options are?

[Brian d marge]

There bikes aren't terribly valuable though are they? I mean, they're pretty uncommon, but not all that widely desired. Or am I wrong? Have I stumbled on a hell of a gem?

Not that it matters much - I love the bike and have no desire to sell it in the medium to long term.

worth money over here ,

make it original , ride it and DONT crash it

Stephen

[eelracing]

I'm having trouble getting this thing back on the road. I don't have the original number plate or any paperwork other than a sales receipt from the previous (registered) owner. The guy at VTNZ couldn't find the frame number in his system and says I need the original number plate, or some documentation with the original plate number on it. This is ridiculous - anyone know what my options are?

Go back and ask for a VTNZ Form Of Statutory Declaration and while your at it ask the guy if his records only start from 1992?
Fill out the form and get a JP to sign it.
Take the form back and start proceedings to re-license/register your bike.

[iranana]

I'm having trouble getting this thing back on the road. I don't have the original number plate or any paperwork other than a sales receipt from the previous (registered) owner. The guy at VTNZ couldn't find the frame number in his system and says I need the original number plate, or some documentation with the original plate number on it. This is ridiculous - anyone know what my options are?

When I registered my RD, I had the original plate, but I didn't have a receipt from the last registered owner (it was last registered in 1988 and had since changed hands a couple of times). The person I bought it off gave me a receipt though. Nothing in the system for the bike, it didn't exist as far as VTNZ were concerned. Different testing places told me different things, but in the end, all I had to do is get a Statutory Declaration that stated I was the owner (I'm pretty sure you don't have to get a form from the VTNZ, the JP will have them). I just went to a JP, explained the situation, we wrote a declaration that said I solemnly swear that I, blah blah blah, purchased X motorcycle for X amount from X person a. Mine had the number plate with it, but that didn't really make a difference. The guy who put mine through made phone calls around to various police stations regarding the VIN number or something. I think the plate was irrelevant.

[Mike.Gayner]

Bit of a shitty day today.

http://a7avenger.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/goods-lessons-from-bad-days/

[Mike.Gayner]

She lives! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZivlMLvk2CI

[Road kill]

There bikes aren't terribly valuable though are they? I mean, they're pretty uncommon, but not all that widely desired. Or am I wrong? Have I stumbled on a hell of a gem?

Not that it matters much - I love the bike and have no desire to sell it in the medium to long term.

It's beautiful an very valuable to people that rode them in their youth.

Keep it forever aye:niceone:

[Mike.Gayner]

Anyone have a suggestion for tyres for this bike? I want the classic look but don't want to spend a lot of money. They specs call for 18" dia 3.25 front and 3.5 rear.

[eelracing]

Anyone have a suggestion for tyres for this bike? I want the classic look but don't want to spend a lot of money. They specs call for 18" dia 3.25 front and 3.5 rear.

You don't want to cheap out where the rubber meets the road mate.
And you can't get a better classic look than Dunlop TT100's,excellent all weather grip too...


http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/334-dunlop_road/3239-dunlop_tt100_and_tt100gp_k81_r.aspx



She lives!

Any first ride feedback???

[Mike.Gayner]

Any first ride feedback???

Cheers for the advice. First ride - big old flat spot in the early revs, but picks up well after that. Feels a little wallowy, which probably has a lot to do with 20 year old tyres (obviously not going far on these). Gearbox is in great condition. I really can't wait to get this bike on the road.

[Grumph]

Anyone have a suggestion for tyres for this bike? I want the classic look but don't want to spend a lot of money. They specs call for 18" dia 3.25 front and 3.5 rear.

Bridgestone BT45's. Don't overtyre it - maybe a 90/90 front and a 100/90 rear.

Forget TT100's - it's a light bike and last time i looked they were only available in large sections which suit bigger, heavier bikes.

[Kickaha]

Bridgestone BT45's. Don't overtyre it - maybe a 90/90 front and a 100/90 rear.

You can now get the TT100 in those sizes which woud look more "period correct" although the BT45 is my favourite

[Mike.Gayner]

Won't the BT45 look a little odd on a classic bike, with their tapered sidewalls?

edit: Actually found a couple of pictures of skinny BT-45's on old bikes and they're a good looking tyre.

edit2: Can you use the BT-45 front tyre on the rear? They don't make the "Rear" tyre in the correct size (and I prefer the look of the front).

[roogazza]

You can now get the TT100 in those sizes which woud look more "period correct" although the BT45 is my favourite
It's going back a bit now, but I seem to remember Dunlop K70s and Avon something or other....Speedmaster ?
When did the TTs arrive, late 60's ? What a revelation they were,wore them for years !
Used to think I was immortal even in the wet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(I'm still alive,I think ?):cool:

[pete376403]

Avon GPs were popular - very round profile. Those and Dunlop TT100 "trigonic" were all the rage, mainly because the plastic jap tyres were so horrible

[pete-blen]

and Avon something or other....Speedmaster ?

Yer might be thinking of the Avon Roadrunner..

I use to use Dunlop K91 red arrow on my Kawasaki 400 S3 triple were next step up from the K81 TT100...

[Mike.Gayner]

Slowly making progress, fixing up bits and pieces and getting ready for compliance. Got new tyres this week, but still dealing with a lean right cylinder and I'm running out of ideas.

http://a7avenger.wordpress.com/2013/12/12/new-shoes-bits-and-pieces/

290945

[eelracing]

but still dealing with a lean right cylinder and I'm running out of ideas.

Possible leaks?head gasket,intake manifold.Compression test?

[roogazza]

Yer might be thinking of the Avon Roadrunner..
Sorry, haven't been back till now. Could very well be ?

Back to lean one side mike, I take it you have checked gearbox oil level ? or changed it even? Are you reading the plug to think it's lean and hot ?
Bike looks great, love it.

[Mike.Gayner]

Possible leaks?head gasket,intake manifold.Compression test?

The problem is that, as a novice, I don't really know how to check for leaks, short of replacing every gasket (which I'm not ruling out). These bikes have a couple of extra potential sources for air leaks, too, being rotary valve design.


Sorry, haven't been back till now. Could very well be ?

Back to lean one side mike, I take it you have checked gearbox oil level ? or changed it even? Are you reading the plug to think it's lean and hot ?
Bike looks great, love it.

Checked gearbox oil, but the dipstick on this thing is impossible to read. I think it's right, but not 100% sure. What would that have to do with it running lean? (genuine question, I'm learning 2-strokes as I go).

The plug looks lean, though I pulled it this morning and it's slightly more tan than last time I checked. If it were a four-stroke it would look absolutely perfect, but from what I can tell it's a little lean for a 2-stroke.

The right side of the engine is also much hotter than the left. I'm not really sure exactly how hot these things should get - the left side is pretty hot (could hold my hand on it for maybe 10 seconds), the right side is much hotter and I couldn't really touch it for more than half a second (that's my highly scientific measure).

Cheers.

[roogazza]

Was thinking more crank seals,tho they usually smoke on the side they're sucking gear oil.
Sometimes if a cyl is working less you'll get a cooler header. I thought maybe if it was sucking oil you may get a different temp on that header ?"
They don't get as hot as a 4 stroke but holding it for 10 seconds sounds cool to me rather than the other hot,if you get what I'm meaning ?
I don't remember the Kawa system of mixing oil to petrol, if its fed into manifold or like suzi posi force to crank etc ? one side might not be getting a supply ?
I wouldn't be running it around without checking those things.
Sorry its hard to advise, not being there.

[ellipsis]

...as last post mentioned...dont be riding it until you know what is happening...too lean and you will burn the piston crown or even blow a hole in it...wrong plugs can cause excessive heat also...

[Mike.Gayner]

I've noticed that the spark plugs are hotter than recommended, but only just (B8HS, should be B9HC) so I don't think that's accounting for much.

Roogaaza, there is a bit of smoke but not excessive. I suspect there are some worn seals that could be contributing to the lean condition, but most of the smoke actually comes from the other side. The oiling system on these injects oil into the intake before the rotary valve. I don't really know how to check the oil system, but will have a look at the shop manual when I get home. I suppose it would pay to ensure the lubrication system is working as intended.

It's entirely possible that I'm getting all twisted over nothing - I should stress that I really don't know how hot these things SHOULD run, and it may indeed be that the left side is running cool. I can detect detonation under load though (running 91, that might have been a mistake).

[eelracing]

Mike it's time to go back and re-check the basics.You prob don't want to hear this but with any smoker that has been sitting for a long time, you at the very least should remove the head and barrels and check piston/rings/rods/bearings and bore.This has the added bonus of replacing all the gaskets.It's just peace of mind mate,hell as a matter of course I'd replace everything,but that's me.

If you don't want to go there then at least do a compression test.If you hav'nt got a tester then beg,borrow or steal one.It's going to tell you if the one side's combustion chamber is way out of whack compared to the other.
Also are the carbs running standard jetting and are they balanced?check them again,it's crucial.

Post up a piccy of the plugs...I'm with Roog on this one as you shouldn't be able to hold your hand on any air cooled barrel when at proper operating temp.

[Mike.Gayner]

Cheers Eel. It isn't about not wanting to do the work - it's still my intention to do a complete restoration of this bike next year. But I'm hoping to get a few summer months out of it before stripping everything down. I have most of the equipment needed for a leak test, but I might actually drop it down to my local mechanic just to make sure it's done right. It's really only the diagnoses I need help with, I can perform the work myself (I'm not a complete mechanical dunce, just a 2-stroke newbie with only a bit of bike experience).

The carbs are running the correct jets and are cleaned, but not balanced yet.

I'll post a picture of the plugs tonight.

[eelracing]

Well a leak test is betterer but you can buy a cheap compression tester at your local Supercheap store.
Remove spark plug,plug in tester,hold throttle wide open,and kickstart your tits off.
However if your mechanic loves two strokes then put him on your xmas card list and pick his brains relentlessly.

What I like most about smokers apart from the glorious rawness of the engine delivery is their simplicity.
Whatever you do,do not read the ESE works tuning thread on KB...those dudes are on a way different level and could put you off two strokes for life.

[Mike.Gayner]

Curse you. (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner)

(Surely you knew I would try to find this)

[Madness]

Curse you. (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/86554-ESE-s-works-engine-tuner)

(Surely you knew I would try to find this)

Bwuahahahahaha!!!

[Mike.Gayner]

Plug RHS: http://i.imgur.com/G48Dier.jpg
Under flash, trying to get the whole insulator: http://i.imgur.com/mbWAKU5.jpg

Will take out the LHS this weekend - just wanted to get back on the bike. I'm actually now convincing myself that the right side is OK and the left side is cool - after a few mins of riding I could feel heat off the right side from a couple of inches, left side felt cool from that distance.

edit: BTW in person the plug looks more like the first pic than the second - the flash makes it look whiter than it is.

[eelracing]

Plug RHS:
Under flash, trying to get the whole insulator:

Will take out the LHS this weekend - just wanted to get back on the bike. I'm actually now convincing myself that the right side is OK and the left side is cool - after a few mins of riding I could feel heat off the right side from a couple of inches, left side felt cool from that distance.

edit: BTW in person the plug looks more like the first pic than the second - the flash makes it look whiter than it is.


That plug is pretty new eh Mike?It's not dirtied up enough for a decent reading.But going on that first pic It looks fine.(post up a pic of both plugs if poss)

First thing first tho you've got to balance the carbs and check the oil pump settings,hopefully explained in your manual.And a visual check that the oil is coming through the lines.The RHS maybe running at optimum and the left side simply overfuelling...always pay's to check and then check again.

Do that then a compression check and it's plug-chop time.

Another thing to take into account is that the fuel we use today is shit compared to what was used back when these bikes were manufactured and almost always invariably means jetting down.

[roogazza]

I have a better idea Eel, you buy it and i buy your LC ??????? :laugh:

[Mike.Gayner]

Appreciate all the help guys. Here are the plugs (left and right respectively):

http://i.imgur.com/HGKZuOS.jpg

edit: And yes Eel both plugs are quite new. Maybe I need a few more miles on them before I can get anything useful from them.

[Mike.Gayner]

This is the page in my book that deals with checking the condition of the oil system. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? Thanks.

http://i.imgur.com/2Ev06PR.jpg

[roogazza]

Appreciate all the help guys. Here are the plugs (left and right respectively):

http://i.imgur.com/HGKZuOS.jpg

edit: And yes Eel both plugs are quite new. Maybe I need a few more miles on them before I can get anything useful from them.

Geez mike ! Something well out there if those plugs were fitted new at the same time ?
Left on the photo, means the left on the bike while sitting on the bike right ?(just to be sure cos some don't know that !)
Either the left is not working hardly at all and lean or the right is not and is fouled ???
Pull a lead off while it's idling, it'll either stop or stay the same I'm guessing ? Looks like it maybe running on one !!!!!!
Whatever it's miles out.

[Mike.Gayner]

Thanks roog, yeah left = left on the bike, and it's dawning on me that the issue probably lies more in the left side than the right. I took it out for a longer ride today (despite everyone's advice, oops) and the bike performed well, though was low on power. I don't think it's running on one, but I think the left side is performing poorly, so I need to figure out why. Yes they were put in new at the same time. Here are the plugs after about 40km of riding today: http://i.imgur.com/7rYqedb.jpg (left in the photo = left on the bike)

Obviously I have some work to do...

[Mike.Gayner]

I'm such a retard. I thought my quick clean of the carbs when I first got the bike was sufficient, but evidently not. I took the left carb off and the main jet was completely clogged with old varnish. Cleaned it up and I'll take it for a ride shortly, or perhaps tomorrow.

All this time fretting over the right side, and the left is where my real issues lay. Being the main jet also explains why my efforts to diagnose at idle were wasted.

[Mike.Gayner]

Mother of god I can't believe what a difference that has made. Everything I thought I knew about the performance of this bike was wrong - basically until today I've been running it on 1 cyl. Keep in mind that I have no frame of reference - I had no idea how fast it was supposed to be, and the only other bikes I've ridden were 250cc singles. So when the performance of this thing was a little more than the 250, I thought that was right. But after clearing that main jet, this bike is so much faster than I thought. What a blast.

I'm so happy to have fixed this performance issue - even though it was something so stupid. I'll take it for a good long ride tomorrow and pull the plugs again - I might get a mate of mine to chop them and give me a detailed analysis after a few more km's.

[roogazza]

well done, don't how you missed running on one,but hey, glad you're on track now.
You have me all enthused too !:clap::clap::banana:

[eelracing]

See,simple eh mate.Every clue was there all the time,congrats for working through it and figuring it out.
But remember all carby jetting starts at the mainjet,It will influence where you will set idle and mid range etc.

On your long ride tomorrow (coz let's face it,nothing is gonna keep you from it)take regular stops and check the plugs and if your happy then find a nice long stretch of empty road.Get her in an upper gear (4th or 5th) and wind her right out to full throttle and hold it there at full open for 5 to 6 seconds.You should be at or near the redline. (it sounds harsh but a well fuelled smoker loves it)After 6 seconds pull in the clutch and hit the engine kill switch simultaneously and coast down to a stop.Don't be tempted to just whip in the clutch and slow down with the engine running as it will give you a false reading.Now you want to check the sparkplugs as this will tell you how she fuels at full throttle.Take a pic as well for reference.
And congrats you've done a plug-chop (bugger ya mate,he can get his own bike).

That oil pump diagram seem ok to follow...the actual pump meterer is the half-moon shaped pulley at the bottom.This should move in conjunction with the throttle and I'm presuming the arrow head shaped pointer should line up with some marks on the pump body at idle and full throttle.

[Mike.Gayner]

The bike ran magnificently for a ride of about 50km today. The plugs don't tell me much, having started from such a different state to one another, but here they are anyway: http://i.imgur.com/0dqrfOu.jpg

So looking a lot better, but I'll have a better idea after I put in new plugs and do a chop next weekend.

[SPman]

Yer might be thinking of the Avon Roadrunner..

I use to use Dunlop K91 red arrow on my Kawasaki 400 S3 triple were next step up from the K81 TT100...Red Arrows - they were meant to be the next big thing after the TT100's - I ran a set on the Ducati GT750 - couldn't really tell any difference......

[roogazza]

The bike ran magnificently for a ride of about 50km today. The plugs don't tell me much, having started from such a different state to one another, but here they are anyway: http://i.imgur.com/0dqrfOu.jpg

So looking a lot better, but I'll have a better idea after I put in new plugs and do a chop next weekend.

Don't forget to look well ahead when you are doing the plug chop ! I can see it now.There's bound to be a cop at the end of the road with a laser.:laugh:

[Mike.Gayner]

Huh! Thanks. I'm pretty aware at the moment, being that the bike isn't registered and doesn't have a plate at present.

[iranana]

Thought I might just chime in cause there's a bit of stuff in this thread that kind of contradicts my understanding of two stroke tuning and I'd like to clarify a few things/contribute to the knowledge base (and I may very well be wrong... but this is what I learnt from tuning my RD). Jetting a smoker doesn't start at the main jet - the main jet is only ever really effective from 3/4 to full throttle (it does start to come into play at 1/4 but its effect is gradual). Before this, it's your needle jet/needle and pilot that do all the work. Jetting a two stroke should really start at the *pilot* jet (assuming your needle jet/needle is set up right - this is another matter). To do so, you warm the bike up to operating temp, then at idle you turn the air screw until you find the point of highest idle.

The air screw should be no more than 2 turns out and no less than 1. It varies a bit from bike to bike, but my RD, for example, should be set at 1 1/4 turns out according to the factory spec. You might find that with today's fuel and changes in altitude you might need to go up on the pilot jet a couple of sizes (I did). The point of this is to obtain the correct air/fuel mixture at idle, which will effect the running characteristic right across the throttle range. You can further tweak the air screw to get the perfect response when you crack open the throttle, too, just by riding and turning it an 1/8 of a turn.

Issues with low end running can usually be attributed to the pilot circuit and needle clip position... The main jet size should be determined *last* and the easiest way to do so is via the plug chop method, which should only ever be done with brand new plugs or you'll get an incorrect reading. If you change the main jet before you correctly tune the pilot/air/needle position, your main jet will be off... but, most importantly, before you do anything to the carbs, clean them *thoroughly* (and I mean thoroughly), or all your efforts will be in vain.

[Mike.Gayner]

Thanks Iriana, your experience matches the guidelines laid out in the workshop manual for this bike. All of this is why my efforts at diagnosing at idle were wasted - the pilot circuit and the air screw are set correctly, so the bike appeared to run just fine at idle. It wasn't until I got it on the road and opened the throttle that the issues became clear. The good news is that the bike is running 90% perfect now - I'll probably have someone cleverer than me set the points and do the final tuning, but it's ridable and very powerful right now.

[roogazza]

Eel will no doubt be a long soon to clarify but reading the manual to adjust air or mixture screws is all well and good if there is no fault in the bike like a blocked jet.
Warm it up yep and adjust to 1 and a quarter turns etc etc.

But if you want to jet the carbs, start at the main and work back thru. Otherwise you'll get all the slow running fine and then if the main is out and you change it the rest will change.

[iranana]

There's nothing quite like a properly tuned smoker! Bet that thing rips when it hits the power band... but the real question is: can it stop as fast as it can go? :lol:

[iranana]

But if you want to jet the carbs, start at the main and work back thru. Otherwise you'll get all the slow running fine and then if the main is out and you change it the rest will change.

The two circuits are more or less independent of one another, but they do 'cross over', so a correctly set up pilot circuit is important for a nice smooth response. A re-jet should always start at the pilot. If the pilot circuit is set up correctly, you could change the main jet to any arbitrary size and it would still idle and run fine at 1/4 throttle. The main jet doesn't come into play until the flow of fuel through the main jet is greater than that of the needle jet and needle. Work out the pilot circuit first, then the needle clip position, then the main.

[Mike.Gayner]

There's nothing quite like a properly tuned smoker! Bet that thing rips when it hits the power band... but the real question is: can it stop as fast as it can go? :lol:

HAHA I suspect you know the answer to that - this is my first old bike, so first experience with drums front and back. They're a little bit scary to be honest. For my own safety I had the mechanic give them a once-over and do a brake declaration when he put the new tyres on. Original shoes and un-machined drums, both in good condition, which is more evidence to suggest that the 12,000km on the clock is genuine.

[iranana]

HAHA I suspect you know the answer to that - this is my first old bike, so first experience with drums front and back. They're a little bit scary to be honest. For my own safety I had the mechanic give them a once-over and do a brake declaration when he put the new tyres on. Original shoes and un-machined drums, both in good condition, which is more evidence to suggest that the 12,000km on the clock is genuine.

I've only ever had to put up with a rear drum brake thankfully... and it was pretty bad. Luckily, my RD is one of the later models with front and rear disc brakes. I have heard, though, that the Yammy engineers designed their early disc brakes to behave a little more like drum brakes, for fear that their braking power would be too much for those coming from older bikes with drum brakes. Not sure about that, but my RD stops all right. The drum brake Kawasaki's make me feel a bit uncomfortable lol. 12,000km on the clock is really good, that crank will be happy. The main issue with old smokers, imo, is that their cranks are usually getting a bit long in the tooth. I'm thinking I'll have the get the RD crank rebuilt in a year or so. On the upside, everything else on these bikes is usually a simple fix. I'd personally love a 350 two stroke twin. I find the 250 can feel a bit under powered at times, but that might be remedied with a nice pair of Denco expansion chambers I just got my hands on.

[eelracing]

All good points Iranana and you can't fault your logic...but I disagree.
I guess it comes down to how you look at it re;two strokes.
For me they are and will always be about performance combined with light weight and simplicity...the perfect sportbike.

So with that in mind I always jet for top-end and i'll bet my left ball that when you fit those performance exhausts the first thing you change won't be the pilot or needle.

[iranana]

All good points Iranana and you can't fault your logic...but I disagree.
I guess it comes down to how you look at it re;two strokes.
For me they are and will always be about performance combined with light weight and simplicity...the perfect sportbike.

So with that in mind I always jet for top-end and i'll bet my left ball that when you fit those performance exhausts the first thing you change won't be the pilot or needle.

Oh absolutely - if you're jetting for top end performance then you can kind of disregard what's going on in the bottom end. Since I jet for the street (smooth, all round running) I like to start at the pilot for nice low end power and then move to the main from there - I barely ride wfo anyway. And of course, the first thing I do when the spannies go on will be richen the mains :msn-wink:
I was just suggesting that perhaps it's best to start from the ground up if you've got carb issues - tis how I solved mine, though there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak :niceone:

[Mike.Gayner]

Next hurdle is getting the bike registered. I'd hit a bit of a road block because we don't have old plates and have no other way of proving the vehicle was once registered in NZ. Heading down to the police station tomorrow, where hopefully they can check the background of the last registered owner (who I bought the vehicle off and have a receipt) and find out the old number plate. Once we have that it should be smooth sailing, because I've done pretty much everything else needed for registration.

[roogazza]

iranana, You may find this of interest.
I have a lot of guff here somewhere but couldn't be bothered searching.
However I did a quick google and this 'Factory Pro' site passes on some good info.


To properly tune, you MUST:

1. Have selected the BEST main jet for full throttle power (not just a "good" main jet - we mean "the BEST main jet" for power at high rpm).
That eliminates the common severe tweaking of the midrange and lower tuning ranges to compensate for a "wrong" main jet.

2. Then - select the BEST needle height / clip position for power at FULL THROTTLE / MIDRANGE after selecting the BEST main jet -
That almost eliminates weird problems at cruise caused by tweaked needle heights that were required because the main jet wasn't correct.......

3. Then, adjust the BEST Float Height for BEST FULL THROTTLE / LOW rpm (many Honda's excluded because floats are not adjustable) -
You should be able to apply FULL THROTTLE at LOW RPM in TOP gear without ANY misfire of bogging or stumble.......

If you follow that order, you will have:
1. Best topend.
2. Best midrange.
3. Best low rpm power.

Then - all you have left is dialing in the pilot circuit - i.e. mixture screw and pilot jet size - That's IT - Don't tweak needle heights and throw away full throttle midrange to try to fix a cruise issue!!! (Unless you want to!)

If you reach an impasse in steps 1,2 and 3 in the FULL THROTTLE tuning, STOP!!!!! and call TECH SUPPORT!!!

[Mike.Gayner]

I'm trying hard to get this bike registered but no one seems to give enough of a shit to help me. A guy at VTNZ suggested I called NZTA to try and get someone to look through the database and track down the bike's history, but unfortunately the person I got at NZTA was a complete asshole who obviously hated his job and his wife was almost certainly fucking the mail man. What an absolute prick of an organisation to deal with.

/rant

[iranana]

I'm trying hard to get this bike registered but no one seems to give enough of a shit to help me. A guy at VTNZ suggested I called NZTA to try and get someone to look through the database and track down the bike's history, but unfortunately the person I got at NZTA was a complete asshole who obviously hated his job and his wife was almost certainly fucking the mail man. What an absolute prick of an organisation to deal with.

/rant

I found that the NZTA was unhelpful as fuck when it came to getting my RD revinned, as was VTNZ. To make things more annoying, each place I talked to told me different things regarding the process involved, including shit like getting the old paperwork from their archives which would have taken weeks. However, I ended up getting in touch with a guy called Paul at VINZ on Carbine Road in Auckland. He told me everything I needed for the process, and it turned out to be very simple. I just took my bike to him with the old plate and a statutory declaration of ownership which I obtained from a JP (just went to a JP with a receipt from the last owner [who wasn't even the last registered owner] and told her what the situation was). He sorted everything else out for me, and the next day it was ready to pick up and road legal. I'd really recommend calling them up and talking to him, he will probably know what to do in your sitation. Out of the numerous people I talked to, he actually knew what he was on about.

In re:the jetting topic above, that's an interesting method, but it makes sense. Seems a little more involved, but I suppose it leads to the same place as jetting from the pilot up does anyway.

[Mike.Gayner]

The problem, Iranana, is that I don't have the old plates. I'm missing the one piece of documentation that you REALLY NEED to do this the easy way - proof that the vehicle was once registered in NZ. If I knew the old rego number I could go to VTNZ and get it registered this afternoon.

At this point it's looking like I have to get it VINned basically as a new import, which means complying with current regs to get through compliance - indicators, ensuring the frame is up to some bullshit standard, all that nonsense. All this despite two (of three) previous owners being absolutely sure that the vehicle was once registered in this country (and probably not that long ago).

[iranana]

The problem, Iranana, is that I don't have the old plates. I'm missing the one piece of documentation that you REALLY NEED to do this the easy way - proof that the vehicle was once registered in NZ. If I knew the old rego number I could go to VTNZ and get it registered this afternoon.

At this point it's looking like I have to get it VINned basically as a new import, which means complying with current regs to get through compliance - indicators, ensuring the frame is up to some bullshit standard, all that nonsense. All this despite two (of three) previous owners being absolutely sure that the vehicle was once registered in this country (and probably not that long ago).

If it's been unregistered for any significant period of time, the plates are probably dead, so you'd need to get it VINned anyway wouldn't you? My RD was last registered in '88, the plates were dead and there was no electronic record of it anywhere. Everyone I called couldn't find any record of it, the last registered owner was back in '88, and since then it had passed hands at least three times... When it was VINned they game me a new plate and VIN number.

The compliance test was pretty straightforward, and there's only a few things that you might need to tweak to make it compliant (reflectors in the rear brake light and that sort of thing).

Surely there must be some record that associates the VIN number with the last plate it was registered under? Like I said, it might be worth talking to Paul at VINZ, he can probably tell you more than most, and he might be able to find a record of it being registered somewhere.

[Mike.Gayner]

Yes it would need a new VIN either way, but if you can't prove it was registered in NZ previously it needs to go through a different compliance process, the process that a post-1991 bike would go through. Although you bike had fallen out of the system, it could still be complied under the pre-1991 rules because you could prove it had been registered before.

There are no records to associate the VIN with a plate number because there is no VIN, just a chassis number which doesn't show up in their system (which is pretty normal for a bike this age).

[iranana]

Yes it would need a new VIN either way, but if you can't prove it was registered in NZ previously it needs to go through a different compliance process, the process that a post-1991 bike would go through. Although you bike had fallen out of the system, it could still be complied under the pre-1991 rules because you could prove it had been registered before.

There are no records to associate the VIN with a plate number because there is no VIN, just a chassis number which doesn't show up in their system (which is pretty normal for a bike this age).

Ahh, I see, bugger, I had assumed the VIN and Chassis number were the same thing :( Keep us updated on what progress you make, as I'm curious as to what you'll have to do to get her back on the road!

[eelracing]

Somehow you're getting dicked around Mike.As I've mentioned in an earlier post the process couldn't of been simpler.
I rocked up to VTNZ here and the lovely young lady couldn't find any records of my RD and I have no license plate.She gave me a statuatory dec. form and informed me to fill it out and get it signed by a JP.I just went into the Local court house and the lovely lady there behind the enquiries counter signed it on the spot.
I then booked the bike in to be tested at VTNZ and on arriving they asked if it had a brake test done.No I said,no worries the head techie said we'll do it now.
Lovely people to deal with here mate.Do as Iranana suggests and go over the heads of those spoons you are dealing with.

Oh yeah once passed VTNZ riveted the new VIN plate to the inside of the seat frame rail...you wouldn't even know it's there.

[Mike.Gayner]

Cheers guys, I'll take another run at them next week.

[Mike.Gayner]

If anyone's wondering, I'm still working on getting the damn registration for this bike. It's unbelievable the bullshit they make you go through. I've also spoken with a couple of people around town who have done multiple restorations and have been through the process many times - there's nothing I can do to short-cut it unfortunately, and there are no "friendly" VIN people in town who are willing to overlook a bit of missing paperwork.

So to summarise, here is what I can tell you about getting an old bike re-registered:

There are two pieces of paperwork that are basically essential to do it the easy way:

proof of ownership (a paperwork trail from the previous registered owner to you)
proof of prior registration, e.g. a number plate, rego papers, insurance papers etc, OR if they can find your frame number in the system this will do.


If you have these two things, it's a piece of cake. Walk into a VIN office (or make an appointment), have a basic WOF-like check done, and they'll issue a new VIN, from which you can get registered.

If you're missing either of these things, your life gets difficult. In my case I'm missing proof of prior registration. I know that the bike has been registered, but I don't have any documents to prove it. Even an old photo with the old number plate would do, but neither of the two previous owners I'm in contact with has anything. In my case I need to collect as much information as I can, and take it to a VIN agent who will submit an "Alternative Documents" form with NZTA. You can't do this yourself - it has to be on an agent's letterhead (when I talk about an "agent" I'm referring to VTNZ etc - people authorised to do this work).

The paperwork I have accumulated so far is:

A letter from Kawasaki to say that the frame/engine number aren't in their system before they idiotically purged their records some time ago, but they confirmed that they imported a lot of these bikes at the time.
A Letter from the Police stating that they have no interest in the bike's frame or engine number.
A list of documents helping to prove the age of the bike.
Bill of sale between the last registered (though can't prove it) owner and me.
Email correspondence between me and a prior (also unproven registered) owner.
Statutory declaration stating that I legally own the bike.


The last piece of paperwork I need is a certificate of authenticity from the Vintage Car Club. This absolute rort is a process where you give them all the documentation needed to prove the age and model of the bike, they pretend to know what they're talking about, you pay them $100 and they give you a certificate "proving" the bike is what I say it is. Once I have this I can submit all of this to the NZTA via the VIN agent, and then I spin a roulette wheel hoping I get someone in a good mood. No one is willing to tell me what the probability of being accepted is - sometimes you win, sometimes you don't.

Things I've learned:

Everything takes time. Everyone is slow and lazy and takes forever to get back to you.
VIN agents are lazy, unhelpful assholes who hate anything that requires a little bit of work. Every single one I've talked to has been basically unwilling to help me. None of them are willing to go the extra mile.
No one wants to give you definite answers, especially lazy VIN agents. They all want to leave escape holes open.
VIN agents don't know anything - do all of your own research, because they'll give you lots of bad information.


Hopefully I'm only a month or two from having a new numberplate. For now I've given up caring and I just ride the bike anyway. I carry around my documentation so if any sympathetic cop pulls me over I can prove I've done everything humanly possible. I'm willing to accept a fine in the unlikely case that I get pulled over. My bike is 100% roadworthy and up to WOF standards.

If anyone has any information they can give me that would simplify this process, or if any sympathetic VIN agent wants to help me avoid any more of this bullshit (unlikely), please get in touch.

[Mike.Gayner]

Well that was an enormous nuisance but the A7 is finally VIN'd, reg'd, WOF'd and licensed.

Once I had the required documentation it was easy - dropped off the bike at VTNZ yesterday and picked it up today with a VIN tag. $199 for inspection, VIN and WOF, and about $175 for registration and 12 months (classic) license.

Finally I can ride the thing legally.

Oh, and it's running beautifully. I don't have any intention of restoring any more - not for the next few years anyway. The bike is too good to tear apart.

[SPman]

Well that was an enormous nuisance but the A7 is finally VIN'd, reg'd, WOF'd and licensed.

Once I had the required documentation it was easy - dropped off the bike at VTNZ yesterday and picked it up today with a VIN tag. $199 for inspection, VIN and WOF, and about $175 for registration and 12 months (classic) license.

Finally I can ride the thing legally.

Oh, and it's running beautifully. I don't have any intention of restoring any more - not for the next few years anyway. The bike is too good to tear apart.
Congrats.

An original bike in good running order is far preferable to a pristine, restored to 150% better than it ever was.
Just continue a "running evolution" as requiredand enjoy.

lucky bugger :niceone:

[Mike.Gayner]

You wouldn't bloody believe it - way home from work tonight, stoked that the bike is finally legal and all that....engine seizes on the motorway. Fuck. I've done a couple of thousand K's on this bike since owning it without issue. *sigh*

Well, I guess I'm rebuilding the motor.

[ducatilover]

That's a bummer Mike, it's a beaut wee machine that. Very jealous!

[Mike.Gayner]

Heads and barrels off and the engine still wont turn. Looks like a bottom end failure.

[98tls]

Bugger,hope your up and running soon.Been reading your posts re rego etc and going by that i am going to have a problem when it comes time to put the old Motorsport on the road,tis a one owner last rego was 1990,the plates there but i dont have the ownership papers from 74,bloke cant find em.Intersting reading and i guess ive hassles ahead.Beautiful bike that,credit to ya.

[Grumph]

Heads and barrels off and the engine still wont turn. Looks like a bottom end failure.

Unless you can see damage with the barrels off, pull the side covers till you can see the primary drive one side and crank the other. Primary gear nut may have moved - or the alternator may have seized, won't necessarily be a crank fault.

[Mike.Gayner]

Update, got the pistons off and found the issue. Right side rod seized at the big end. No idea how/why at this point because everything looks nice and oily.

[Mike.Gayner]

Getting there.

http://i.imgur.com/L9vq3oI.jpg

[Mike.Gayner]

Crank is off with a guy who is helping me rebuild it, but rods appear to be virtually unobtainable. Might have to substitute with some H1 rods and add a spacer/longer studs to accommodate the extra 5mm length.

[Mike.Gayner]

Did a quick blog entry on tearing it down, no real detail but some pictures for this interested.

http://a7avenger.wordpress.com/2014/06/18/engine-rebuild-time/

Crank is being rebuilt at present - currently optimistic we'll find enough parts to make a good crank (both rods need replacing).

WIP.

[husaberg]

post the sizes length of the crankpin and the rod sizes and lengths, I am sure we can find something that will work and be new.........

[Mike.Gayner]

People smarter than me have already done their homework on this, and I'm leaving it in the hands of an experienced local to do the rebuild. Some people have used H1 rods, or as a substitute these rods: http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Hot-Rods-Connecting-Rod-Kit-8115-p/4707965.htm?Click=35177

They're about 3.5mm longer though, so you have to use a little spacer under the barrels. I'd rather try to rebuild with good A7 parts if possible. It'll be new main bearings, small end bearings and new machined pins if necessary.

[Ocean1]

People smarter than me have already done their homework on this, and I'm leaving it in the hands of an experienced local to do the rebuild. Some people have used H1 rods, or as a substitute these rods: http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Hot-Rods-Connecting-Rod-Kit-8115-p/4707965.htm?Click=35177

They're about 3.5mm longer though, so you have to use a little spacer under the barrels. I'd rather try to rebuild with good A7 parts if possible. It'll be new main bearings, small end bearings and new machined pins if necessary.

Most tooling workshops will make you new pins. If there's any left.

And just occasionally you find there's a bearing available that's half a tad larger OD than the OE spec bearing. Means you can bore and hone the rods. For the sake of 5 min in a bearing book or on the phone it may be worth a look.

[husaberg]

Here you go
bugger has stepped pins so they have to go....
http://a1a7.com/forum/index.php?topic=341.0

http://a1a7.com/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=160.0

[Mike.Gayner]

Thanks, I've already read all the threads in that forum.

[Flettner]

My Kawasaki F9 350 has almost no Kawasaki bits left inside it. A longer rod is a good thing, no one will notice small spacers. The original rods are rubbish, I would not bother fitting them. Mine has a Hot Rod ( brand ) out of a Polarus of some sort, a much more modern design and very robust. The bike will handle 9000 rpm, four race seasons now without going near the crank. If I used original I wouldn't see one season out. I repeat the original rods are rubbish.

[Mike.Gayner]

Cheers Flettner, point taken. I caught up with the guy who is doing the crank work for me today. He has pulled apart 4 cranks to find a good set of rods and couldn't get a single usable rod, which I guess is a testament to how bad they are.

We will be going with YZ125 rods, which will require:

1mm machined off the cylinder (as the rods are 1mm shorter)
About 20 thou machined off each side of the webbings as the YZ125 rods are slightly thicker
YZ125 big end pins will need to be turned down slightly to fit the original webbing


Going down 1mm is probably better in terms of keeping exhaust fitment etc right, as opposed to going up 4 or 5mm. I'm not building this for performance so the slight decrease in crankcase volume isn't a bit deal for me. I'm pretty much building a brand new crank on the old webbings, so it should be good for a long time once completed.

[Flettner]

Good on you, use modern stuff!

[Mike.Gayner]

After pricing up the YZ125 rods and related machining work it was going to be WAY too expensive. In the end my guy wound up tracking down enough great parts to make one frankencrank. It has one new rod, one great used rod and assorted parts from mine and other cranks. Going to be starting the process of putting everything back together soon.

http://i.imgur.com/6HuvMHTl.jpg

[JDS]

I recently purchased a Kawasaki A7 350 Avenger, have been plotting/planning to modify her, but reading all the posts in this thread, it has me feeling bad about it and that maybe i should just tidy her up a little and keep her as is.




In an effort to keep me off a sports bike, my old man has very generously given me his 1971 Kawasaki A7B Avenger. The engine runs and it's a pretty good starting point for a restoration. I'm not going to go nuts with this, but I'll strip it down and clean everything up, and hopefully get it back on the road in relatively short order.

Are there many of these around? Any members on here own this or a Samurai? The two-stroke twins sure seem to be an uncommon bike these days. I'm worried about finding parts, but there seem to be a lot of bits available on ebay (for a price).

This is the bike, currently sitting in my dad's garage. Definitely looking forward to shifting it into my own garage as soon as I've done a bit of a clean-up at home.

http://i.imgur.com/PA9vA6n.jpg

289213

[Mike.Gayner]

JDS, got any pictures? I wouldn't be too swayed by what people tell you to do - it's your bike and you should do what you want. These bikes are definitely uncommon and hard-ish to come by, but they're far from "rare", and I wouldn't be nervous about modifying one. I've decided to leave mine more or less exactly as it is rather than restore it, mainly for financial reasons. Personally I don't care about the future value of the bike (some people say it's worth more unrestored) because I own bikes to ride them, not to record them on my balance sheet.

[ellipsis]

...Welcome JDS...is this a first bike or just a project...are you fairly familiar with, or, ready to learn about two stroke's...just inquisitive, that's all...

[JDS]

...Welcome JDS...is this a first bike or just a project...are you fairly familiar with, or, ready to learn about two stroke's...just inquisitive, that's all...

It's my first road bike but I rode mx bikes plenty.

Will post a pic of the bike soon.

I bought it as a family bonding project with my brother and old man. If all goes well, might do another one or if lucky two.

I had planned to build an old brat style bike. Not sure if this lends itself to that, may keep her closer to what she is and build a brat for my next one. Will see.

[ellipsis]

...cool...good luck with the overall project...