Front brake fixes?

[Hmmmmark]

Since owning my Hornet I've found the front brakes to be lacking power and requiring way too much lever travel to properly activate. This being my first bike I'm unsure what's normal, but in any case I don't like it.

Brake pads were changed at service, however the problem still persists.

So, I'm wondering what I should do. Should the dealership have bled the brakes when replacing the pads or do you think they would've left it as is?

I'm thinking I'll try a fix like this (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csLVVDA5YXk) with a can of brake cleaner first - though I'm wondering how I make sure I can separate my brake pads after pushing them together :sweatdrop

If that doesn't fix it is bleeding the brakes my only other option?

Cheers!

[unstuck]

Or replacing the brake lines.

[nodrog]

If you have to ask, your best bet is to take it to somebody who knows what they are doing.

[Hmmmmark]

Or replacing the brake lines.

True, but is this likely to be a solution to my particular problems?


If you have to ask, your best bet is to take it to somebody who knows what they are doing.

Yeah that's the safest option, but I'd like to make my own careful attempt so the next time I won't have to ask or take it to someone else :)

Fair deal - there's some risk I'll ruin the most important part of the bike, but if I try cleaning and bleeding according to instructions how much can I mess it up?

[BigAl]

Read these articles by Dave Moss http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/entry.php/2712-Brake-Calipers

I'd start with a good clean of the calipers as well as new fluid.

I've done this and braking performance improved.

[nodrog]

....... how much can I mess it up?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acaJwnQ_qBc

[jellywrestler]

Brake pads were changed at service, however the problem still persists.

So, I'm wondering what I should do. Should the dealership have bled the brakes when replacing the pads or do you think they would've left it as is?

surely if you'd had brake issues when it was serviced they would have pointed them out?
is your front brake lever adjustable, some have 3- 6 settings depending on your finger reach how it's set??????

[Trade_nancy]

Excessive lever travel and/or sponginess at lever may be caused by issues within the caliper(s). This did happen with some regularity on my previous ride - Triumph Sprint. I had to dismantle the calipers and basically clean and lube (special lube needed - on back of piston) and reassemble and refit and all was well for a few months. Transpired - according to forum feedback from others - that the Nissin caliper assembly had inferior pistons which lacked a teflon coating causing the O-ring to grab onto the piston as it retreated back in/out of it's housing. Many owners of these retro-fitted calipers from Daytona 675's and Busa's - as they had improved piston technology.
Your problem may just require cleaning. You may also benefit from a flush out of the brake fluid and replace anew.

[Hmmmmark]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acaJwnQ_qBc

Haha yeah I appreciate the danger of having non-functioning brakes - I'll make sure they're working before heading out again


surely if you'd had brake issues when it was serviced they would have pointed them out?
is your front brake lever adjustable, some have 3- 6 settings depending on your finger reach how it's set??????

You would've thought so - but I guess it might fall within an acceptable range of performance.

Yeah I can adjust the distance of the lever, the problem being that if I adjust it to where it's comfortable, I have to pull it either into my own knuckles or with 4 fingers to get some decent stoppage.


Excessive lever travel and/or sponginess at lever may be caused by issues within the caliper(s). This did happen with some regularity on my previous ride - Triumph Sprint. I had to dismantle the calipers and basically clean and lube (special lube needed - on back of piston) and reassemble and refit and all was well for a few months. Transpired - according to forum feedback from others - that the Nissin caliper assembly had inferior pistons which lacked a teflon coating causing the O-ring to grab onto the piston as it retreated back in/out of it's housing. Many owners of these retro-fitted calipers from Daytona 675's and Busa's - as they had improved piston technology.
Your problem may just require cleaning. You may also benefit from a flush out of the brake fluid and replace anew.

Yeah sounds similar to what I may be having - I'll give cleaning the pistons/calipers a go first and see how that works. Haven't heard anything similar about my Nissins but I'll keep an eye out. Cheers!

[Sable]

Yeah sounds similar to what I may be having - I'll give cleaning the pistons/calipers a go first and see how that works. Haven't heard anything similar about my Nissins but I'll keep an eye out. Cheers!

If you don't even know how to bleed your brakes I wouldn't suggest stripping your calipers. Brake bleeding is the first port of call for problems like this anyway.

[Hitcher]

It's not necessarily all about wear and tear. Even brand new bikes can have piss poor brakes, like most Suzukis, for instance.

[Hmmmmark]

If you don't even know how to bleed your brakes I wouldn't suggest stripping your calipers. Brake bleeding is the first port of call for problems like this anyway.

Oh I won't be stripping them, just pulling them off, extending the pistons (with pads still in) and cleaning the crap out of them with an aerosol cleaner e.g. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csLVVDA5YXk


It's not necessarily all about wear and tear. Even brand new bikes can have piss poor brakes, like most Suzukis, for instance.

I've heard a few complaints about the brake performance on the Hornet, but I'm hoping normal is somewhat better than what I've currently got. If it comes to that I'll see.

[Tazz]

In my mind you are safer giving it a go and learning a bit more about how it all works. If you've got half a brain most of this stuff is way easier than you think it is if you just take your time and have a decent selection of tools (i.e. not using a chisel to get nuts on and off haha)

You've already asked about it which is being more cautious than most. Just jump on the google and get a manual for your bike, pull out an exploded diagram of your brakes, watch a few videos, get the right parts and consumables before you start and go nuts.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acaJwnQ_qBc

:laugh::laugh: Yeah pretty sure he's going to jump on and test them out just like that.

Out of interest do you do any work on your bike yourself nodrog?

[tobbera]

Bleed brakes.
Master brake cylinder rebuild.
New braided brake lines.

In that order.

[Hmmmmark]

In my mind you are safer giving it a go and learning a bit more about how it all works. If you've got half a brain most of this stuff is way easier than you think it is if you just take your time and have a decent selection of tools (i.e. not using a chisel to get nuts on and off haha)

You've already asked about it which is being more cautious than most. Just jump on the google and get a manual for your bike, pull out an exploded diagram of your brakes, watch a few videos, get the right parts and consumables before you start and go nuts.



:laugh::laugh: Yeah pretty sure he's going to jump on and test them out just like that.

Out of interest do you do any work on your bike yourself nodrog?

Yeah my thoughts exactly. The brakes have come off and gone back one and are a damn sight better already, so one more thing learnt today


Bleed brakes.
Master brake cylinder rebuild.
New braided brake lines.

In that order.

Yeah I'm glad I cleaned them out, there was a hell of a lot of scunge, brake dust and whatever else caked in there, already works much better. Bleeding them next.

Incidentally, how am I supposed to dispose of old brake fluid?

[Tazz]

Incidentally, how am I supposed to dispose of old brake fluid?

I'm not sure if I'm supposed too, but I just tip it in with my engine oil and take it to the tip :whistle: There are drums there you can pour your oil into for free at most of them, check on the net first.

[Hmmmmark]

I'm not sure if I'm supposed too, but I just tip it in with my engine oil and take it to the tip :whistle: There are drums there you can pour your oil into for free at most of them, check on the net first.

Ah I see, well I was also wondering what to do with oil when I got round to an oil change, so now I know :)


So I've had a camping trip cut short (thanks weather) so I've had plenty of time today to take care of this.

Spent $120 getting a socket set, pliers, brake fluid, cleaner, and bleeder kit and spent about 60 mins watching youtube videos and 40 mins working.

Now my caliper + pistons are cleaned, brake fluid replaced and calipers bled and I've got a much better front brake.

Don't know how much a dealer would have charged but I feel it's money well spent :)

[NinjaNanna]

well done just - double check all bolts are tight before and after your first ride. THen again after your first decent ride.

[F5 Dave]

Bleed brakes.
Master brake cylinder rebuild.
New braided brake lines.

In that order.

Actually before all of those I'd service the callipers. Sliding pins if equiped. Pistons stick. Seals get white scunge build up behind them. Pistons get debris sinking to bottom behind them (if a bike is 10+ years old I'd pop pistons out to clean system, earlier if brake fluid hasn't been replaced often). On top of that some dust selas (Tokico) can tend to pull the pistons back too far. And on top of all that the pads could just not be very suited to the discs or not very good or contaminated with fork oil etc.