GN250 Custom Project FSM [Archive]

kiwikk

15th December 2013, 20:59

Have a look at the before and after pics of Project FSM which took a standard '92 GN250 and tried to improve its stance and ride characteristics as much as possible. I think it's gained some street cred at the same time ( at least I'm not embarrased to ride it in public now).
It just sailed through it's WOF :woohoo:
I might do some further mods after I've given it a good seasons riding.
Project cost less than $150 and other than the seat, everything is reversible.
I've also got a set of progress photo's and details of the mods if there's enough interest.

291056291057291058291059

Kickaha

15th December 2013, 21:02

Improves the look of the bike considerably and there's nothing really major been done to it

jellywrestler

15th December 2013, 21:45

number plate must be less than 15 degrees from vertical...

DanielM8

16th December 2013, 02:31

Did you buy that tail light assembly or make it yourself? Keen for my gn :)

Sent from my iShit using Tapatalk

kiwikk

16th December 2013, 19:13

Did you buy that tail light assembly or make it yourself? Keen for my gn :)

Sent from my iShit using Tapatalk

Tail Light from Repco is made for a trailer as is the reflector above it. It's the original mount but with added plate fashioned from a road sign to seal it. Sorry but thats something I didn't photograph.
The whole assembly is a little bit high relative to the seat but at least it didn't need any new holes in the mudguard so it's reversible (and it got through the WOF without a second look).
I've been careful to try and comply with all legal requirements but I didn't spot the one about the number plate angle so if jellywrestler is a tester...sorry ;)

kiwikk

16th December 2013, 19:22

Improves the look of the bike considerably and there's nothing really major been done to it

Cheers for that.
Goal achieved.

Arronduke

18th December 2013, 20:49

I was going to post some shit, its a GN after all. But F me that looks quite cool.
So ALL though its a GN, it looks cool.

ducatilover

18th December 2013, 22:07

GN's are lord, boss and almighty.

kiwikk

24th December 2013, 19:23

I was going to post some shit, its a GN after all. But F me that looks quite cool.
So ALL though its a GN, it looks cool.

Cheers :cool:

kiwikk

24th December 2013, 19:34

GN's are lord, boss and almighty.

I don't know whether I'd go that far. Cheap, cheerful and easy perhaps ;)
A great starter project bike.

BAD DAD

25th December 2013, 12:23

always enjoy seeing people mod bikes that are easy to source and don't cost trillions, especially when the overall effect is an improvement

Madness

25th December 2013, 12:26

It could do with some bar-end mirrors.

kiwikk

25th December 2013, 16:29

It could do with some bar-end mirrors.

Agreed. Can't see anything with the originals, but then I never could, even with the original bars.
Now bar end mirrors would cost so it's a last resort if I can't work out how to extend the originals.
Suppose it's a good idea to keep an eye on the approaching nutters behind, especially on the old GN.
Next project, more power, they'll be staying behind. :msn-wink:

blackdog

25th December 2013, 18:18

Now bar end mirrors would cost...

The price of a tinny, delivered to your door.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOLD-CNC-BILLET-BAR-END-MIRRORS-7-8-MOTORCYCLE-CBR-600-RR-1000-VFR-800-Honda-/350959912886?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b6d747b6&vxp=mtr

kiwikk

27th December 2013, 18:30

The price of a tinny, delivered to your door.

Thanks for the link. Had a look but I didn't think bar end mirrors would suit the bike style I'm going for.
So for the cost of one 10mm nut and bolt I made my own mirror extender.
291485291486

chemohelion

28th December 2013, 17:04

Thanks for the link. Had a look but I didn't think bar end mirrors would suit the bike style I'm going for.
So for the cost of one 10mm nut and bolt I made my own mirror extender.
291485291486

Hey there Kiwikk, I'm also working on a GN250. Did you do anything with the rear suspension? I want to raise it up a bit and straighten the bike. Also, are the handlebars the original? Where did you get that extra piece across them?

Thanks

kiwikk

28th December 2013, 18:26

Hey there Kiwikk, I'm also working on a GN250. Did you do anything with the rear suspension? I want to raise it up a bit and straighten the bike. Also, are the handlebars the original? Where did you get that extra piece across them?

Thanks

Hi Chemohelion,
I've modified the original rear suspension units to give them 35mm more height without having to modify the mounts and without altering the dynamics. Check my profile posts which talk about the issues. The back of the tank and seat front have also been raised by 35mm and the forks dropped by 35mm and preloaded. The bike now handles much better. I can PM you some further details if you like.
The handlebars are new off the shelf MX widest low rise items for a Yamaha by Accel. (The single most expensive part of the project at $65 NZ) The crossbar comes with the bars and is removable for road riding but I'm leaving it on. The front brake reservoir mount is part of fixed casting so it can't be rotated resulting in a bit of a steep angle but the braking is unaffected.

Good luck with your project. Look forward to seeing the results.

ruaphu

29th December 2013, 11:12

Nicely done project, had a few of these lil beasties way back. The changes loom great. How does it handle now? Could be a good back roads bike now eh.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

kiwikk

29th December 2013, 20:00

Nicely done project, had a few of these lil beasties way back. The changes loom great. How does it handle now? Could be a good back roads bike now eh.

Thanks ruaphu,
The handling is much improved although I'd only rode it once in its original form after I bought it so I didn't get a fair performance baseline. The upright stance certainly allows a lot more control. It's now capable of coping with any situation that you could get a GN250 into. :msn-wink:
I don't think it'll ever be great because of the long soft non-progressive fork springs. I've added 25mm of preload to them and whilst it hasn't affected the compression rate, it does seem to have firmed things up a bit. I wouldn't trust that stupid fork retaining circlip arrangement to hold down any more than the extra 25mm even if you could find some safe way of compressing the spring to get it back in without it taking your eye out.

And yes, it makes a great back roads fair weather bike, just exactly what I'd planned it to be.
Maybe see you out around the back roads of New Plymouth eh?

ducatilover

29th December 2013, 20:27

Hi Chemohelion,
I've modified the original rear suspension units to give them 35mm more height without having to modify the mounts and without altering the dynamics. Check my profile posts which talk about the issues. The back of the tank and seat front have also been raised by 35mm and the forks dropped by 35mm and preloaded. The bike now handles much better. I can PM you some further details if you like.
The handlebars are new off the shelf MX widest low rise items for a Yamaha by Accel. (The single most expensive part of the project at $65 NZ) The crossbar comes with the bars and is removable for road riding but I'm leaving it on. The front brake reservoir mount is part of fixed casting so it can't be rotated resulting in a bit of a steep angle but the braking is unaffected.

Good luck with your project. Look forward to seeing the results.
How did you raise the rear bro?

ruaphu

29th December 2013, 21:57

Thanks ,

Maybe see you out around the back roads of New Plymouth eh?

Yep no worries, We're out and about on our behemoth regularly, easy to spot. It's a large maroon kawasaki 2000cc Vulcan all kitted out with the plate '2L VN'.

Take care on that cool liddle
bike eh, cheers

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

kiwikk

30th December 2013, 15:29

How did you raise the rear bro?

Bazinga!
My secret revealed:
Picture 1 = Before and after rear suspension height comparison. Looks better without shrouds but they'll be necessary later.
Picture 2 = Components left to right a) 35mm preloader fashioned from hardwood. Lightweight alloy turned billets would be preferrable.
b) 25mm long coupling nut with 10mm fine thread and 14mm flats. Rare as rocking horse shit, so I got them with normal thread pitch and recut using a 10mm fine thread tap. Not ideal so if you've got access to a lathe, make some. (my local bike engineer couldn't be bothered so he scared me off with high price)
c) 40mm of 10mm dia fine thread bolt with head cut off.
Picture 3 = Coupler on. (note use of ratchet straps as spring compressors)
Picture 4 = Preloader on. Essential to get the spring action back where it should be.
Picture 5 = Shroud on. It hides the woodwork.
Picture 6 = Putting top mount back on. (Careful releasing those ratchet straps, keep hands clear or they'll have you)

Also as I've mentioned in previous posts on this subject, the right rear footpeg and exhaust mount subframe will need gently bending outwards by 12mm to clear the now lowered swing arm. Oh and also the brake lever arm will need trimming and the back wheel will no longer clear the ground when on the centrestand and the sidestand will also struggle to reach the ground so it'll need some help.

Worth it?.....

I think so.

kiwikk

30th December 2013, 15:35

And here's the left side before and after views.
I've kept the original paint and graphics to confuse people and help the WOF guy ;)
291715 291716

Kickaha

30th December 2013, 19:28

If it was me I'd shorten the front guard up a little

ducatilover

3rd January 2014, 13:03

That's the same way I was considering doing my shocks (mine weren't worth using) before I did the swingarm swap, cool to see it worked and the bike looks much nicer for it :2thumbsup

kiwikk

3rd January 2014, 19:41

That's the same way I was considering doing my shocks (mine weren't worth using) before I did the swingarm swap, cool to see it worked and the bike looks much nicer for it :2thumbsup

Cheers mate.
And there I was half expecting a batch of piss taking responses to my cheapo woodwork solution :sweatdrop

ducatilover

3rd January 2014, 20:20

Cheers mate.
And there I was half expecting a batch of piss taking responses to my cheapo woodwork solution :sweatdrop

I've seen worse

And done much worse :shutup:

kiwikk

5th January 2014, 14:02

Thanks for the link. Had a look but I didn't think bar end mirrors would suit the bike style I'm going for.
So for the cost of one 10mm nut and bolt I made my own mirror extender.
291485291486

Update.
That bracket I made helped but the short original mirror crank of 100mm was always going to be a problem. Lengthening the bracket any more would allow too much vibration at speed so....

Christmas pressie for the bike, $29 aftermarket mirror. Same style only bigger.
Gotta keep an eye on those plonkers behind. :doh:

Lower

5th January 2014, 18:59

kiwikk

6th January 2014, 19:58

looking good man. How have you found the bars? Its the last thing I've got on my to do list before I sell, just want to find something a bit more comfortable. Still liking them or would you of gone for something different?

The bars were top of my list as they were key to the style for all the other mods and they're perfect for me. The elbows-out riding style might look a bit aggressive for a low power bike but it gives much better control and that means a more confident and enjoyable ride, especially on the twisties.

I'm guessing a bar change alone (without seat raise) might end up a bit cramped

Only downside of the bars is the airbrake effect of your body. GN's can't really afford to lose any power :weep:

the oldstuff

10th January 2014, 19:10

Does make that little GN look cool, well done man. Proves there's no need to spend a fortune to have a neat looking bike.
Now just to find a bigger barrel and piston eh....

ducatilover

10th January 2014, 19:52

Now just to find a bigger barrel and piston eh....

Cheap enough from the land of communism.

kiwikk

11th January 2014, 19:39

Does make that little GN look cool, well done man. Proves there's no need to spend a fortune to have a neat looking bike.
Now just to find a bigger barrel and piston eh....

Cheers for that.
My boy's pretty taken with it. Wants to use it as an Auckland runaround (ideal as a street bike). Prefers it to his CBR125R pocket rocket!
It's probably about as far as I'll go with this project. Don't want to over-capitalise.
Also don't want to mess with the simple and reliable engine for minor performance increase.

I'm on the lookout for a new project bike to do similar things with.....only with a twin or 4 cyl, 250 to 500cc.

kiwikk

12th January 2014, 13:50

Cheap enough from the land of communism.

But this is a '92 Jap bike (apart from the aftermarket cheapo indicators which are Chinese. Two of which have already broken :pinch:)
I'll not be putting anything Chinese in this engine until their quality standards have improved considerably.
From what I've read about the CFMoto 650, this might be starting to happen.

ducatilover

12th January 2014, 19:40

But this is a '92 Jap bike (apart from the aftermarket cheapo indicators which are Chinese. Two of which have already broken :pinch:)
I'll not be putting anything Chinese in this engine until their quality standards have improved considerably.
From what I've read about the CFMoto 650, this might be starting to happen.

I've used plenty of Chinese gear on GNs and it's the same as the Jap gear. Exceptions made for "chrome" work :innocent:

kiwikk

13th February 2014, 19:16

Look out Aucklanders.....
'E only 'ad it ten minutes an' look what 'e did to the old girl :shit:
Ah well, I suppose it could've been worse. Pink or summit.
Apparently this is that black stuff that just peels of without damaging the original paintwork.
He's 'stoked' 'cos real bikers now acknowledge him on the road.

I only let him have it 'cos I've moved on to something lets say 'a little more appropriate for my age'.
Check it out: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/163884-CB400F-Mixed-Messages

PS. See that little CBR125R in the background ? that'll be up for sale shortly. Only 6000 kms on the clock. Stay tuned

KIPS powervalve

21st November 2014, 21:27

Bazinga!
My secret revealed:
Picture 1 = Before and after rear suspension height comparison. Looks better without shrouds but they'll be necessary later.
Picture 2 = Components left to right a) 35mm preloader fashioned from hardwood. Lightweight alloy turned billets would be preferrable.
b) 25mm long coupling nut with 10mm fine thread and 14mm flats. Rare as rocking horse shit, so I got them with normal thread pitch and recut using a 10mm fine thread tap. Not ideal so if you've got access to a lathe, make some. (my local bike engineer couldn't be bothered so he scared me off with high price)
c) 40mm of 10mm dia fine thread bolt with head cut off.
Picture 3 = Coupler on. (note use of ratchet straps as spring compressors)
Picture 4 = Preloader on. Essential to get the spring action back where it should be.
Picture 5 = Shroud on. It hides the woodwork.
Picture 6 = Putting top mount back on. (Careful releasing those ratchet straps, keep hands clear or they'll have you)

Also as I've mentioned in previous posts on this subject, the right rear footpeg and exhaust mount subframe will need gently bending outwards by 12mm to clear the now lowered swing arm. Oh and also the brake lever arm will need trimming and the back wheel will no longer clear the ground when on the centrestand and the sidestand will also struggle to reach the ground so it'll need some help.

Worth it?.....

I think so.
Worth it for sure.

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but how do you take the shock to bits in the first place? All components seem to be able to twist around each other without unscrewing. I'm also scared of blowing a hole in the roof with a spring or other hard object like I did changing fork seals on my old FZR
:facepalm:

cowpower

25th December 2014, 17:25

unstuck

25th December 2014, 18:18

Do I need much prac knowhow? Or can I learn it from a book?

You can learn any way that suits your disposition, willingness to learn is the key.
Getting your hands dirty and having a go is the best way to learn for yourself. You can do eeeet.:Punk::Punk:

kiwikk

31st December 2014, 19:10

Worth it for sure.

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but how do you take the shock to bits in the first place? All components seem to be able to twist around each other without unscrewing. I'm also scared of blowing a hole in the roof with a spring or other hard object like I did changing fork seals on my old FZR
:facepalm:

You need to get the spring compressed enough to slip a slim 14mm spanner between the top of the chrome shroud and the aluminium top mount.
You'll see that I used a couple of ratchet straps as a poor man's spring compressor.
The chrome shroud covers a lot of the spring coils so you'll really have to crank the straps down hard on the few coils available.
Jam a bar through the top mount eye for leverage and whack the spanner with a hammer.
Unscrew the top mount.
Release the strap ratchets in stages using a screwdriver and keep your hands clear. The spring shouldn't fly off anywhere.
If you do the mod like I did, putting it back together will be much easier due to increased spring length.
Good Luck

kiwikk

31st December 2014, 19:27

Sad this thread is dead!! I'm just a year behind the 8ball here.

Thanks for the pics and shocks info, though I'm also intruiged about the shocks.. will I need compression clamp things? Basically I know nothing cept how to undo bolts and shine the shit out of things. But I would like to get my bike to this point. Do I need much prac knowhow? Or can I learn it from a book?

I can vouch for the shitness of made in china.. got a 2005 GN250 to learn on and do up and the first apparent issue was the cheap tainted bolts and screws. Some rusted through so much I had to drill them out :/ anyway they've buffed up fine in a vinegar soak and if they do that rusting shit again I'll have to buy a few more bolts. Also the exhaust has rusted to shit, and it's not even 10 yrs old yet.

Spring compression clamps are the correct and safest tool but they cost and the chrome shroud might actually get in the way. We poor men make do with ratcheting tie-down straps. Just need to make sure they're not frayed. Operate on one spring at a time using two straps and crank them down evenly and enough to get a spanner between the shroud and the aluminium top mount flange.
Even if you don't do the lengthening mod, Losing the shroud looks good (if you can get the top coils clear of rust that is)

Can't emphasise this enough but keep hands clear when finally releasing the strap ratchets.

Good Luck

PS. I'm actually selling my old girl if you're interested: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=827106450

cowpower

12th January 2015, 22:19

Did you end up selling it outside of trademe or still have it? I'm tempted to sell my chinese $#@%^% and "upgrade" to something like a non chinese GN to tinker with further..

I've done a few exterior mods - new front indicators, have LED rear tail lights and indicators coming, and was thinking about replacing the exhaust - its got a bit of stubborn surface rust and a bit of a dent on the inside. Plus it sounds dumb. However my main goal is to get at least what I paid for it back so I don't think it's worth it? Still thinking of taking the shocks and forks apart though. Mainly to clean it up for sale - its 2005 so the chinese crap metal has already passed its best before. I bought it pretty much swimming in superficial surface rust!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205700579415806&l=3ae99cf40a