Kathryn42
4th January 2014, 17:33
Hi guys. My CBR600 has a bit of cam chain noise (98,000km, no surprises there!) and I have bought an APE manual CCT for it.
On watching some of the installation videos (all of which are for other sorts of bike) I notice that a lot of them recommend putting cable ties around the cam chain and sprockets to prevent tooth-skipping when the OEM CCT is removed. Are they not fooling themselves? The crankshaft end of things is quite unrestrained, although on an end-mounted cam drive I guess you could take up most of the slack in the chain. I cannot see how this is possible on a mid-line cam drive such as the one on the early CBRs. From looking at the shop manual, it looks as if the cylinder block casing would get in the way of an effective procedure.
One of the videos is on a Yamaha R1, and does not use the cable ties at all, merely rotating the engine to TDC to minimise valve spring tension on the cams, which is very sensible, and changing the OEM CCT fir the APE manual one.
On starting the motor it purred like a kitten, although personally I would have rotated the engine by hand for a couple of turns before hitting the starter, just in case!
It seems quite possible to change the CCT on my CBR600 without disassembling half the bike, which accessing the camshaft sprockets would entail; in fact just like the guys at the bike-shop video did it on the R1.
I would appreciate your thoughts on this.
Cheers.
On watching some of the installation videos (all of which are for other sorts of bike) I notice that a lot of them recommend putting cable ties around the cam chain and sprockets to prevent tooth-skipping when the OEM CCT is removed. Are they not fooling themselves? The crankshaft end of things is quite unrestrained, although on an end-mounted cam drive I guess you could take up most of the slack in the chain. I cannot see how this is possible on a mid-line cam drive such as the one on the early CBRs. From looking at the shop manual, it looks as if the cylinder block casing would get in the way of an effective procedure.
One of the videos is on a Yamaha R1, and does not use the cable ties at all, merely rotating the engine to TDC to minimise valve spring tension on the cams, which is very sensible, and changing the OEM CCT fir the APE manual one.
On starting the motor it purred like a kitten, although personally I would have rotated the engine by hand for a couple of turns before hitting the starter, just in case!
It seems quite possible to change the CCT on my CBR600 without disassembling half the bike, which accessing the camshaft sprockets would entail; in fact just like the guys at the bike-shop video did it on the R1.
I would appreciate your thoughts on this.
Cheers.