View Full Version : Fuel tank painting?
John_H
10th January 2014, 16:12
Hi, painting the tank on an RGV 250. The whole tank needs a skim of filler (or whatever it is called) and a sand.
What filler should I buy for this job?
What grit sandpaper should I use to sand back?
Cheers
ducatilover
10th January 2014, 16:22
I like CRC's line of body fillers/bog/whatever. Easy to work with and sand nicely.
As for paper I go to 800 then use a high build primer, moar 800 and some 1000, then slam paint on it and cry at my shit paint skills
John_H
10th January 2014, 17:12
I like CRC's line of body fillers/bog/whatever. Easy to work with and sand nicely.
As for paper I go to 800 then use a high build primer, moar 800 and some 1000, then slam paint on it and cry at my shit paint skills
Ha ha. Thanks for that. It's just for a bucket so I'll just be using rattle cans.
koba
10th January 2014, 18:44
I keep a few rolls of no-fill sand paper, quicker easier and not as pretty as good fine wet n dry.
koba
10th January 2014, 18:55
Also, painting my bike I used VHT engine paint on the tank, it seems a bit more fuel resistant than the average rattlecan paint.
John_H
10th January 2014, 18:59
I keep a few rolls of no-fill sand paper, quicker easier and not as pretty as good fine wet n dry.
What's no fill sand paper?
koba
10th January 2014, 19:01
What's no fill sand paper?
I's got a more open grit, the Norton branded stuff is white.
Doesn't clog up as fast.
More designed for painting a house but I like using it because I'm rough and impatient.
ducatilover
10th January 2014, 19:56
Got to agree with Koba, VHT makes some nice rattleshit, easy to get a good finish with and well priced if you go anywhere except RAPECO
John_H
11th January 2014, 13:44
Got to agree with Koba, VHT makes some nice rattleshit, easy to get a good finish with and well priced if you go anywhere except RAPECO
What's a can worth and can I use it on the fibreglass tail too?
ducatilover
11th January 2014, 20:17
What's a can worth and can I use it on the fibreglass tail too?
$18 at repco, $12 or there abouts anywhere else.
Yeah, always pays to slap primer down first, then go for gold :2thumbsup
John_H
13th January 2014, 14:49
Also, painting my bike I used VHT engine paint on the tank, it seems a bit more fuel resistant than the average rattlecan paint.
Where do u buy your VHT paint from Malcolm?
koba
13th January 2014, 15:24
Where do u buy your VHT paint from Malcolm?
Repco.
<>
F5 Dave
14th January 2014, 12:00
He goes to Rapeco 'cause he's Rough & Impatient:buggerd::love:
John_H
15th January 2014, 20:23
He goes to Rapeco 'cause he's Rough & Impatient:buggerd::love:
Can't be bothered with lube.
koba
15th January 2014, 22:06
What the?!
This Slander stems from filthy minds.
Filthy.
John_H
6th February 2014, 08:12
I have painted the tank with metalic paint. Should I now wet and dry sand or will this spoil the metalic finish? If I should sand what grit paper should I use?
Owl
6th February 2014, 09:26
Metallic paint - I'm presuming this is a basecoat or lacquer? Sand only if you're re-coating with more base. Do not attempt to clearcoat over sanded base! If you're sanding, I'd recommend P800-1200 wet.
Few variables involved here. What exactly are you doing?
John_H
6th February 2014, 14:34
Metallic paint - I'm presuming this is a basecoat or lacquer? Sand only if you're re-coating with more base. Do not attempt to clearcoat over sanded base! If you're sanding, I'd recommend P800-1200 wet.
Few variables involved here. What exactly are you doing?
It's just rattlecan paint on my bucket. I primed it and used a top coat which is metallic. The shop told me there is no need to clear coat over the top. Should I sand my final top coat?
Trade_nancy
6th February 2014, 14:41
Just don't spill fuel onto it afterwards....else it may crack and die..
Tazz
6th February 2014, 15:07
It's just rattlecan paint on my bucket. I primed it and used a top coat which is metallic. The shop told me there is no need to clear coat over the top. Should I sand my final top coat?
Why would you? Does your top coat look crap?
John_H
6th February 2014, 15:55
Why would you? Does your top coat look crap?
No, looks great but feels a bit rough. I haven't done this before and was told to clear coat and sand the top coat. Not going to clear coat now as I've had advice to the contrary but should I sand the top coat or not?
Owl
6th February 2014, 17:24
Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!
Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.
John_H
6th February 2014, 20:32
Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!
Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.
Righto, thanks. So clear coat it is then. Should I go for gloss or satin?
SNF
7th February 2014, 16:41
Righto, thanks. So clear coat it is then. Should I go for gloss or satin?
Its a personal choice. Want your finish nice and shiny? Gloss is your friend. Want it subdued - go for satin.
Some bikes can pull off satin well, other do better with gloss.
John_H
7th February 2014, 20:00
Its a personal choice. Want your finish nice and shiny? Gloss is your friend. Want it subdued - go for satin.
Some bikes can pull off satin well, other do better with gloss.
Thanks bud.
Never sand metallic topcoat unless you're re-coating with more topcoat!
Unless the metallic base is 2K (I know it ain't), then you should clearcoat with a 1K/lacquer type clear. Yes that can be sanded and cut/polished, but a metallic base shouldn't be left on its own.
Thanks, what is the difference between 1k and 2k?
koba
7th February 2014, 21:09
Thanks bud.
Thanks, what is the difference between 1k and 2k?
2k is professional and will do harmful thinks to you.
You will be using 1k.
AllanB
7th February 2014, 21:13
what is the difference between 1k and 2k?
$999 .............
SNF
7th February 2014, 21:36
2K is 2 parts - mixed with thinners and hardener and sprayed through a gun via compressor, in a spray booth. It is baked dry and is glossy off the gun without needing polish. White overalls, full face respirator, gloves, the works. Isocyanates (forgot how to spell it?) = toxic shit. $999 is about right, I sprayed my car myself years ago and it was about that for etch, filler, base and clear. Still looks good now apart from some scratches and chips.
2k is professional and will do harmful thinks to you.
You will be using 1k.
$999 .............
1K is the stuff mixed and in a can. It can also be sprayed via gun with thinners. It dries via solvent evaporation. it needs to be polished after its cured as it can lose its shine.Best to wear the same gear as the 2K stuff.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/paint/auction-693083479.htm
get that. Slightly better control over the can. I say slightly because you still can't control the pressure properly. Start off light, then go heavier. I'll be using one when I paint my tank and fairings once I'm done.
Remember; its all in the prep.
Owl
7th February 2014, 22:49
$999 .............
Must spread more rep.
:laugh:
John_H
8th February 2014, 16:15
2K is 2 parts - mixed with thinners and hardener and sprayed through a gun via compressor, in a spray booth. It is baked dry and is glossy off the gun without needing polish. White overalls, full face respirator, gloves, the works. Isocyanates (forgot how to spell it?) = toxic shit. $999 is about right, I sprayed my car myself years ago and it was about that for etch, filler, base and clear. Still looks good now apart from some scratches and chips.
1K is the stuff mixed and in a can. It can also be sprayed via gun with thinners. It dries via solvent evaporation. it needs to be polished after its cured as it can lose its shine.Best to wear the same gear as the 2K stuff.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/paint/auction-693083479.htm
get that. Slightly better control over the can. I say slightly because you still can't control the pressure properly. Start off light, then go heavier. I'll be using one when I paint my tank and fairings once I'm done.
Remember; its all in the prep.
Thanks all. Final question. Do I sand between coats of clear or just final coat?
Owl
8th February 2014, 16:36
Thanks all. Final question. Do I sand between coats of clear or just final coat?
Don't sand until it's finished and only then if you're cutting/polishing.
yevjenko
14th February 2014, 16:49
That has to be the most informative and helpful post i've ever read on KB.
Nice one lads! :2thumbsup
SNF
17th February 2014, 08:29
I'll be covering a how to from start to finish with pics in my bike thread. Look for the "Remember your first bike?" thread in Modifying Motorcycles.
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