Axle lengths?

[kiwi cowboy]

I have an idea:gob:yes that's right AN IDEA:yes:.

I have a 88 fzr750 and have found a 17 inch rim setup that will fit without much remodelling.
Is three spoke but straight not on an angle but when im on track I wont be lookin at it:motu:.

I do have two options to fit it though.
I will have to remove the swingarm and get a lug welded underneath it for the brake calliper brace(anything to worry about there?) but that's ok.

the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.

So who has an axel in there bike that's 20ml and about 350-360 ml long (not counting the bolt head but counting the threaded bit).

After some makes and models if possible so I know what im looking for.

Would this axel thing work or am I pissing in the wind?.
I know I would have to get the chain adjusters milled out but that could be cheaper than getting reducing spacers made and would make it easier to change to wet rims.

Any thoughts welcome

[Kickaha]

the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.

3/ find a different wheel bearing with same OD and 17mm ID

[Drew]

3/ find a different wheel bearing with same OD and 17mm IDToo easy, but not always possible.

When I changed the wheel on the front of my FZR to one from a Thunderace, I had 'top hats' made to reduce the bearing ID. No one made what I needed.

It's cheap and simple, and means the original wheel can go back in if needs must.

For the torque arm lug. It needs to be strong as fuck, without weakening the swingarm. Alluminium is touch to weld and retain rigidity, pay for a real good engineer to do it.

[Akzle]

Akzle length? 9 inches.

[kiwi cowboy]

Too easy, but not always possible.

When I changed the wheel on the front of my FZR to one from a Thunderace, I had 'top hats' made to reduce the bearing ID. No one made what I needed.

It's cheap and simple, and means the original wheel can go back in if needs must.

For the torque arm lug. It needs to be strong as fuck, without weakening the swingarm. Alluminium is touch to weld and retain rigidity, pay for a real good engineer to do it.

It is possible to change the bearings but I would need to get a new spacer made for the rim and would still need to get reducers made for the brake calliper bracket and the sprocket carrier (oh I wish my bro still had his lath).
Im not worried about the original rear wheel going back in cos its a race bike only.

As for the torque arm, if it was going to be too risky welding a lug on I could get a calliper that goes on top of the swing arm and try to get a bracket made to fit it?.

[Drew]

It is possible to change the bearings but I would need to get a new spacer made for the rim and would still need to get reducers made for the brake calliper bracket and the sprocket carrier (oh I wish my bro still had his lath).
Im not worried about the original rear wheel going back in cos its a race bike only.

As for the torque arm, if it was going to be too risky welding a lug on I could get a calliper that goes on top of the swing arm and try to get a bracket made to fit it?.

OK, then modify the standard calliper to fit and just get top hats made to sleeve the bearing ID down.

Be sure to use the crush tube from the original wheel, so the little flat surface on the top hats doens't have to take any actual sideways force.

[kiwi cowboy]

OK, then modify the standard calliper to fit and just get top hats made to sleeve the bearing ID down.

Be sure to use the crush tube from the original wheel, so the little flat surface on the top hats doens't have to take any actual sideways force.

The standard calliper probably wont fit the way the calliper is designed with the mount bolts being angled down not parallel to the swing arm if you know what I mean.

I wont know for sure until I get a disc on the rim and see if the bottom bolt would clear the swing arm.

I was going to get a calliper off an impulse or something and make a new mount.

What is the crush tube?.

[FJRider]

I have an idea:gob:yes that's right AN IDEA:yes:.

I have a 88 fzr750 and have found a 17 inch rim setup that will fit without much remodelling.
Is three spoke but straight not on an angle but when im on track I wont be lookin at it:motu:.

I do have two options to fit it though.
I will have to remove the swingarm and get a lug welded underneath it for the brake calliper brace(anything to worry about there?) but that's ok.

the only thing is the new rim is 20ml axel and the fzr is 17ml so I can either.

1/ get spacers made to reduce the hole to 17ml right through or.

2/ find an axel off another bike 20ml size that's the same length as the fzr.

So who has an axel in there bike that's 20ml and about 350-360 ml long (not counting the bolt head but counting the threaded bit).

After some makes and models if possible so I know what im looking for.

Would this axel thing work or am I pissing in the wind?.
I know I would have to get the chain adjusters milled out but that could be cheaper than getting reducing spacers made and would make it easier to change to wet rims.

Any thoughts welcome

Only "Original" ideas are worth praise ... :beer:

Welding only needs certification for on road use ... (as far as I know anyway) ;)

You can put a bush in to accept the bearings or find a bearing with the inner/outer specs to suit the 17 mm axle .... (Budget Bearings in Alex .. ??) :scratch:

Just make sure the final drive cog is the correct distance out (for your bike) from the center of the rear wheel ... for correct alignment. Slight misalignment could chew cogs and chain apart. OR ... throw it off ... :wacko:

Most engineering workshops could Build an axle to ANY required dimensions ... with any required threads .. :yes:

AND ..... ALWAYS piss downwind ... ;)

[Drew]

The standard calliper probably wont fit the way the calliper is designed with the mount bolts being angled down not parallel to the swing arm if you know what I mean.

I wont know for sure until I get a disc on the rim and see if the bottom bolt would clear the swing arm.

I was going to get a calliper off an impulse or something and make a new mount.

What is the crush tube?.Nope, dunno what you mean about the calliper bolts. Or whether the the disk bolts are gonna miss the swingarm.

Crush tube is the bit of pipe between the wheel bearings. It is what you are actually tightening the axle up on.

[kiwi cowboy]

Only "Original" ideas are worth praise ... :beer:

Welding only needs certification for on road use ... (as far as I know anyway) ;)

You can put a bush in to accept the bearings or find a bearing with the inner/outer specs to suit the 17 mm axle .... (Budget Bearings in Alex .. ??) :scratch:

Just make sure the final drive cog is the correct distance out (for your bike) from the centre of the rear wheel ... for correct alignment. Slight misalignment could chew cogs and chain apart. OR ... throw it off ... :wacko:

Yep got that part ok.

Most engineering workshops could Build an axle to ANY required dimensions ... with any required threads .. :yes:
What about heat treatment??.
I think they have some sort of treatment from what I read in the net.

AND ..... ALWAYS piss downwind ... ;)

I sit down:shutup::facepalm:

[FJRider]

I sit down:shutup::facepalm:

Bloody girl .... (as I always suspected)

Heat treatment is easy for qualified engineers ...

(and read your rep ... <_<)

[Drew]

Bloody girl .... (as I always suspected)

Heat treatment is easy for qualified engineers ...

(and read your rep ... <_<)

It's cooling the whole thing down slowly, that's important. Once it's been heated up to fucken hot in it's entirety of course.

[FJRider]

It's cooling the whole thing down slowly, that's important. Once it's been heated up to fucken hot in it's entirety of course.

AND ... depending on the choice of metal you use ... ;)

[FJRider]

Akzle length? 9 inches.

What degree of magnification are you using .. :killingme

[unstuck]

Akzle length? 9 inches.

Your a midget then. Bet you got a small cock.:bleh:

[Drew]

AND ... depending on the choice of metal you use ... ;)Na, the FZR has an aluminium swingarm. So the lug for the torque arm needs to be made of the same stuff. Once it's welded on there, the whole thing needs to be cooked and the temperature lowered slowly to avoid a weak spot where the weld is.

It's not hard, but it's a lot of fucking around. So mounting the standard calliper is likely the easiest option.

[FJRider]

Na, the FZR has an aluminium swingarm. So the lug for the torque arm needs to be made of the same stuff. Once it's welded on there, the whole thing needs to be cooked and the temperature lowered slowly to avoid a weak spot where the weld is.



My mistake ... I thought he was referring to the axle that needed heat treatment ... :confused:

[kiwi cowboy]

Na, the FZR has an aluminium swingarm. So the lug for the torque arm needs to be made of the same stuff. Once it's welded on there, the whole thing needs to be cooked and the temperature lowered slowly to avoid a weak spot where the weld is.

It's not hard, but it's a lot of fucking around. So mounting the standard calliper is likely the easiest option.

How about making a collar to bolt onto the 5 bolt 110ml dia 17 inch rim and bolt the 6 hole 150 dia original disc.
to that.

The ting is that with the original disc is 20ml further out on the fzr rim from centre of rim than the bandit one so possibly a 20 ml plate made would mean I could use the original calliper and get one spacer made up to go between the calliper mount and rim with a reducer into the rim.

Thoughts on that please?.:drool:

[unstuck]

Thoughts on that please?.:drool:

Get someone who knows what they are doing, do it for you sheepshagger. :Punk::Punk:

[FJRider]

Will FZR forks fit ... ???

[kiwi cowboy]

Will FZR forks fit ... ???

Are you pissed?.

[kiwi cowboy]

Get someone who knows what they are doing, do it for you sheepshagger. :Punk::Punk:

Well I wasn't thinking ii could make it out of a couple of standards with a hacksaw and grinder:nya::nya::nya::nya::motu::motu::motu::motu ::brick::brick::brick::brick:

Must spread rep before giving to stuckey again.

[Drew]

How about making a collar to bolt onto the 5 bolt 110ml dia 17 inch rim and bolt the 6 hole 150 dia original disc.
to that.

The ting is that with the original disc is 20ml further out on the fzr rim from centre of rim than the bandit one so possibly a 20 ml plate made would mean I could use the original calliper and get one spacer made up to go between the calliper mount and rim with a reducer into the rim.

Thoughts on that please?.:drool:
That would work nicely I reckon.

[kiwi cowboy]

That would work nicely I reckon.

Ok I have the sprocket side spacers being made as I type and should pick up on Monday.

Then I can get an accurate measurement of the spacer I need for the brake side between the rim bearing and calliper mount bracket.

I see there are different grades of aluminium plate available and wonder which grade would be best to ask for as I will have to get a piece or offcut from somewhere and will have to be 25ml thick as I think it will have to be 20ml thick as the plate itself and be able to lath it down to leave a flange to fit the disc over.

So what grade of aluminium please do you think??????.

[Drew]

Because the bulk of the force is held with the friction of the two surfaces, if ya located it on dowels and held it tight it can be soft as and never cause a problem.

Wheels are super soft all things considered, after all.

[Ocean1]

Na, the FZR has an aluminium swingarm. So the lug for the torque arm needs to be made of the same stuff. Once it's welded on there, the whole thing needs to be cooked and the temperature lowered slowly to avoid a weak spot where the weld is.

It's not hard, but it's a lot of fucking around. So mounting the standard calliper is likely the easiest option.

It's not that fucking easy either. In most cases the first thing you need is an accurate oven capable of around 900deg, which isn't very much below the temperature that will see your swingarm a puddle.

Unless you know exactly what alloy it is, the heat schedule and the correct tempering procedure don't bother, it's much safer to make a bracket that goes completely around the swingarm tube and clamps on there. I'd bung a couple of monel rivets in there too, belt and braces thing...

[pete-blen]

So what grade of aluminium please do you think??????.


Flat plate in 25mm thick is going to be hard to find in anything but the more common grades ... ie - 5005/5251/6061..
plate in 5083 would be the go...5251 & 5083 in the most common plate/sheet used in boat building..try a boat builder
for offcuts..
Round bar in 7075 would be far the best..
But really any of the grades will do , its a short spacer under compression with a great bit of steel up it's guts..
But as theres a seal that also runs on it the harder grades will last longer 5083 or 7075...

[kiwi cowboy]

Flat plate in 25mm thick is going to be hard to find in anything but the more common grades ... ie - 5005/5251/6061..
plate in 5083 would be the go...5251 & 5083 in the most common plate/sheet used in boat building..try a boat builder
for offcuts..
Round bar in 7075 would be far the best..
But really any of the grades will do , its a short spacer under compression with a great bit of steel up it's guts..
But as theres a seal that also runs on it the harder grades will last longer 5083 or 7075...

Yer na sorry mate:laugh:.
You got the wrong part.
The axel spacers are being made of steel.
The spacer i'm meaning is to bolt onto the 5 bolt 110ml diameter holes and be about 20ml thick and then mount the original disc on that 6bolt 150 diameter holes.
Why I think I need a piece 25 ml thick is so I can take a shave off one face and leave a flange to fit the disc over like a rim has.
So I think I need a piece of flat plate 25ml thick by about 180x180ml to get the piece cut out of.
So what grade as I don't know if I need a heat treated or treatable one or just any grade.
I think the 5083 on some literature I read it said don't use in applications over 60 deg c but don't know what that really means and if the brakes were worked hard weather the heat would trans fer to the spacer and if so how much and would it matter.
Hope that's clear.:shutup:

[Drew]

Yer na sorry mate:laugh:.
You got the wrong part.
The axel spacers are being made of steel.
The spacer i'm meaning is to bolt onto the 5 bolt 110ml diameter holes and be about 20ml thick and then mount the original disc on that 6bolt 150 diameter holes.
Why I think I need a piece 25 ml thick is so I can take a shave off one face and leave a flange to fit the disc over like a rim has.
So I think I need a piece of flat plate 25ml thick by about 180x180ml to get the piece cut out of.
So what grade as I don't know if I need a heat treated or treatable one or just any grade.
I think the 5083 on some literature I read it said don't use in applications over 60 deg c but don't know what that really means and if the brakes were worked hard weather the heat would trans fer to the spacer and if so how much and would it matter.
Hope that's clear.:shutup:You're good to use whatever you can get in my opinion. The rear brakes never get that much of a work out that you're going to over heat the plate, and bolted to the wheel it wouldn't distort anyway.

[kiwi cowboy]

You're good to use whatever you can get in my opinion. The rear brakes never get that much of a work out that you're going to over heat the plate, and bolted to the wheel it wouldn't distort anyway.

Cool thanks Drew.

Getting quite excited really.
Fairings off at the moment and getting quite good at melting cracks together with the soldering iron (even making some new bits to weld into where the odd pieces are missing) then I will put a layer of fibreglass over to brace the cracks.:yes:

Should do one of them photo things A:scratch: