New biker from Auckland (biketimus_prime)

[biketimus_prime]

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a bike and just today acquired my learners licence. I sorted out insurance after that and went for a ride. It has been a very steep learning curve but after my first legal and proper ride today, all I can say is I LOVE IT! What a life changing thing it is to have a bike! I've always been into my cars and have done a few track days and worked on my own car since I was 16 but a bike is a whole different ball game in terms of riding and mechanical work!

I had to do a lot of research about gear, and the process of buying all the way to riding the bike and I hope to make a thread to guide other newbies through it so they don't have to search all over the place for the basic info.

First order of business was checking everything was okay with the bike and I found the chain was a bit too loose, I also found that the nut holding the axle was finger tight! So after watching a youtube video I managed to get the right tension on the chain as well as aligning my rear wheel up again (what a mission that was initially!).

Anyway, here are some pictures of my bike, it is a 2004 Suzuki GSX250 with 35,000km on the clock.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1966197_10153868575845632_1103466054_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31/1898770_10153868575575632_836444512_o.jpg

Hope to have a fun time on here and meet a few of you at events or whatever you do :D

[Akzle]

Hey everyone,

Hope to have a fun time on here and meet a few of you at events or whatever you do :D

no one here has a bike. They just come here to slag each other off and remember the good ol daze.
Now youre here, we'll slag you off.

[rustyrobot]

no one here has a bike. They just come here to slag each other off and remember the good ol daze.


Psychological projection was conceptualized by Sigmund Freud (6 May 1856 – 23 September 1939) in the 1900s as a defense mechanism in which a person unconsciously rejects his or her own unacceptable attributes by ascribing them to objects or persons in the outside world. For example, a person who is rude may accuse other people of being rude.

Welcome to kiwibiker BP,

Sounds like you've done some good research and are ready to spend some decent time on the road. That's a sweet first ride.

Enjoy!

[biketimus_prime]

no one here has a bike. They just come here to slag each other off and remember the good ol daze.
Now youre here, we'll slag you off.

Haha sounds like every other car forum I'm on. There must be some great fights on here :laugh:

[bogan]

Nice bike, chain looks a little tight though :shutup:

[biketimus_prime]

Psychological projection was conceptualized by Sigmund Freud (6 May 1856 – 23 September 1939) in the 1900s as a defense mechanism in which a person unconsciously rejects his or her own unacceptable attributes by ascribing them to objects or persons in the outside world. For example, a person who is rude may accuse other people of being rude.

Welcome to kiwibiker BP,

Sounds like you've done some good research and are ready to spend some decent time on the road. That's a sweet first ride.

Enjoy!

Thanks, I have never been so alert on the road before, you learn to spot a bad driver who may make idiotic manoeuvres from ages away!


Nice bike, chain looks a little tight though :shutup:

Haha please don't say that, I check it after every ride now to make sure I haven't messed up somehow!

[bogan]

Haha please don't say that, I check it after every ride now to make sure I haven't messed up somehow!

Just make sure you check it to the model specific specs, not some general measurement often given in vids. Better slightly too loose than slightly too tight imo.

[biketimus_prime]

Just make sure you check it to the model specific specs, not some general measurement often given in vids. Better slightly too loose than slightly too tight imo.

Yeah the last owner gave me the manual for the bike and I went off that :)
I need to sort out the clutch lever. Clutch only engages/disengages when the lever is only a few mm away from rest (whatever the right term is for that). Is that normal? I feel like it should be halfway between fully pulled back and at rest.

[Akzle]

Psychological projection was conceptualized by Sigmund Freud (6 May 1856 – 23 September 1939) in the 1900s as a defense mechanism in which a person unconsciously rejects his or her own unacceptable attributes by ascribing them to objects or persons in the outside world. For example, a person who is rude may accuse other people of being rude.

Welcome to kiwibiker BP,

Sounds like you've done some good research and are ready to spend some decent time on the road. That's a sweet first ride.

Enjoy!

are you trying to tell me im a fuken jew?

Ive got a sneaky suspicion im not who youre thinking i am.

[bogan]

Yeah the last owner gave me the manual for the bike and I went off that :)
I need to sort out the clutch lever. Clutch only engages/disengages when the lever is only a few mm away from rest (whatever the right term is for that). Is that normal? I feel like it should be halfway between fully pulled back and at rest.

That comes down to personal preference mainly (as long it is fully engages/disengages through the stroke), should be an adjuster on the lever/cable join.

[BigAl]

Looks like a tidy bike BP, also check the chain for tight spots and set tension on tightest section.

As bogan says better on the loose side than tight.

[rustyrobot]

are you trying to tell me im a fuken jew?

Ive got a sneaky suspicion im not who youre thinking i am.

I've got a sneaking suspicion you used the wrong turn of phrase. I could be incorrect though.

As an aside, did you know that fuken is Japanese for 'a husband's marital rights'. Fuken funny.

[biketimus_prime]

That comes down to personal preference mainly (as long it is fully engages/disengages through the stroke), should be an adjuster on the lever/cable join.

Yeah the owners manual shows how to do it, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I like how it is now, but I'm worried that it may get looser and not disengage completely but I won't notice because my weight stops the bike moving forwards even if the clutch is slightly engaged still.


Looks like a tidy bike BP, also check the chain for tight spots and set tension on tightest section.

As bogan says better on the loose side than tight.

Yep I made sure that I checked many different spots and they are all within 25-35mm.

Oh also another question, when you guys come to a stop and you're gearing down and braking, what is the right way of doing it? I do this:

*Apply rear brake then front brake
*Lightly hold rear brake, let off front brake so I can rev the engine
*Downshift
*Apply front brake again, all the while holding rear brake slightly on.

Is that okay? I also gear down as much as I can (without skipping any gears, I skipped from 3 to 1 once and almost died) first sometimes and then apply the brakes for the last bit to come to a stop.

[Akzle]

I could be incorrect though.
wouldnt be the first time...


As an aside, did you know that fuken is Japanese for 'a husband's marital rights'. Fuken funny.

except we're spriching anglais.
But no, i did not know. Thanks for tha learnering.

[bogan]

Yeah the owners manual shows how to do it, I just haven't gotten around to it yet. I like how it is now, but I'm worried that it may get looser and not disengage completely but I won't notice because my weight stops the bike moving forwards even if the clutch is slightly engaged still.



Yep I made sure that I checked many different spots and they are all within 25-35mm.

Oh also another question, when you guys come to a stop and you're gearing down and braking, what is the right way of doing it? I do this:

*Apply rear brake then front brake
*Lightly hold rear brake, let off front brake so I can rev the engine
*Downshift
*Apply front brake again, all the while holding rear brake slightly on.

Is that okay? I also gear down as much as I can (without skipping any gears, I skipped from 3 to 1 once and almost died) first sometimes and then apply the brakes for the last bit to come to a stop.

No need to let off the front break when you downshift, you should probably start off with a rider training day or Auckland Street Skills session if they still do em, better to get into the right habits from the start, rather than try and change bad habits later.

[The Reibz]

Welcome bro, nice choice of bike.

Swing by NASS on a Wednesday night sometime if your after a few pointers. Phil loves helping out newbies

[biketimus_prime]

No need to let off the front break when you downshift, you should probably start off with a rider training day or Auckland Street Skills session if they still do em, better to get into the right habits from the start, rather than try and change bad habits later.

Yeah I think I should attend some of those training days for sure. I got this bike so I can learn how to ride one and get as skilled as possible rather than as a toy :)
I have to learn to hold the front brake at the right position so it doesn't jerk while I rev then... New skill to practice I guess haha


Welcome bro, nice choice of bike.

Swing by NASS on a Wednesday night sometime if your after a few pointers. Phil loves helping out newbies

Hey thanks man I saw it on trademe and got it ASAP. I'll be honest I didn't ride it before I got it but I inspected it all over from what I knew about cars and from reading up about what to check on bikes. I did take a friend who rides with me before I finalised the sale though and he said it went well so that's good!

Cool as I just found the NASS thread but there's so many pages! Can you please tell me what page to look at for when the next training night is? Is it just the first post being updated all the time or is it in between the 300 other pages haha

[biketimus_prime]

Oh also I'd like to ride to uni sometime soon and I will be in 9am traffic or 8am at worst, from north shore to city. How can I practice lane splitting? I'm scared I'll knock wing mirrors or scratch cars, and how fast should I go? I'm thinking like 20kph max? Anyone got tips?
Thanks :D

[bogan]

Oh also I'd like to ride to uni sometime soon and I will be in 9am traffic or 8am at worst, from north shore to city. How can I practice lane splitting? I'm scared I'll knock wing mirrors or scratch cars, and how fast should I go? I'm thinking like 20kph max? Anyone got tips?
Thanks :D

Don't. Lane splitting should only be done when you have the confidence/experience not to need to ask those sort of questions to begin with.

[biketimus_prime]

Don't. Lane splitting should only be done when you have the confidence/experience not to need to ask those sort of questions to begin with.

Alright very sound advice, thank you :)

[Akzle]

... I feel a statistic coming on...

[The Reibz]

NASS starts at 7pm every wednesday at the Z petrol station in Westgate. Carpark training starts at 730ish outside Shantons and Rebel Sport in Albany.
If you feel confident trying country roads go to the first meeting. If you would rather just carpark drills then go to the 2nd one.

[DanielM8]

Yeah I think I should attend some of those training days for sure. I got this bike so I can learn how to ride one and get as skilled as possible rather than as a toy :)
I have to learn to hold the front brake at the right position so it doesn't jerk while I rev then... New skill to practice I guess haha



Hey thanks man I saw it on trademe and got it ASAP. I'll be honest I didn't ride it before I got it but I inspected it all over from what I knew about cars and from reading up about what to check on bikes. I did take a friend who rides with me before I finalised the sale though and he said it went well so that's good!

Cool as I just found the NASS thread but there's so many pages! Can you please tell me what page to look at for when the next training night is? Is it just the first post being updated all the time or is it in between the 300 other pages haha

There's another guy on a GSX250 that attends NASS most weeks, too. :)

[biketimus_prime]

... I feel a statistic coming on...

Don't be rude!


NASS starts at 7pm every wednesday at the Z petrol station in Westgate. Carpark training starts at 730ish outside Shantons and Rebel Sport in Albany.
If you feel confident trying country roads go to the first meeting. If you would rather just carpark drills then go to the 2nd one.

Thanks for the info I will make it to the carpark drills hopefully from wednesday next week. I have already ridden on some country roads out in Albany and I don't mind them, however I would rather practice drills as that is the kind of riding I'll be doing day to day.


There's another guy on a GSX250 that attends NASS most weeks, too. :)

Cool! I haven't seen many around actually.

Also I went for a ride to my mate's place in whangaporoa and rode back along east coast road when it was dark, all I can say is that the road is laid down by satan himself. Worst road ever to choose as my first night ride, so much different on a bike compared to a car! :no:

[DanielM8]

Don't be rude!



Thanks for the info I will make it to the carpark drills hopefully from wednesday next week. I have already ridden on some country roads out in Albany and I don't mind them, however I would rather practice drills as that is the kind of riding I'll be doing day to day.



Cool! I haven't seen many around actually.

Also I went for a ride to my mate's place in whangaporoa and rode back along east coast road when it was dark, all I can say is that the road is laid down by satan himself. Worst road ever to choose as my first night ride, so much different on a bike compared to a car! :no:

My first open road ride (and it was at night too) was up east coast to a bit past Whangaparoa. It's scary the first time, but east coast rd is so much fun (and almost relaxing) when you've ridden it before. :)


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[george formby]

Yeah I think I should attend some of those training days for sure. I got this bike so I can learn how to ride one and get as skilled as possible rather than as a toy :)
I have to learn to hold the front brake at the right position so it doesn't jerk while I rev then... New skill to practice I guess haha



Can you enlarge on that bold statement? I'm confuzzled by the jerk when you rev bit & what it has to do with the brakes.

Yup, correct training & plenty of practice is paramount.

Oh. Hello.:sunny:

[bogan]

I'm confuzzled by the jerk

That's just akzle, you'll get used to him...

[Akzle]

That's just akzle, you'll get used to him...

:killingme :laugh:
rep sent!

[biketimus_prime]

My first open road ride (and it was at night too) was up east coast to a bit past Whangaparoa. It's scary the first time, but east coast rd is so much fun (and almost relaxing) when you've ridden it before. :)


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Yeah I rode it towards silverdale in the daytime and it was fine, but so much more different at night. Good training though I guess.


Can you enlarge on that bold statement? I'm confuzzled by the jerk when you rev bit & what it has to do with the brakes.

Yup, correct training & plenty of practice is paramount.

Oh. Hello.:sunny:

By jerking when I rev it I mean as I pull back on the throttle my fingers pull on the brake as well and it clamps on haha. But I managed to get it down last night anyway, I use my index and middle finger to hold the brake nicely while other fingers rev the throttle :)

Oh also is it normal for the bike to be jerk when I pull the throttle in first and second gear? Especially at low revs like say I take off from the lights, then I let off a bit, then I get on it again, it jerks at the initial pull unless I pull it reeeeally slowly, my mate's bike never did it noticeably like that, it's really annoying! Also if I cruise around in second and get on the throttle it'll jerk initially. Throttle cable adjustment?

[release_the_bees]

Funnily enough that sounds like what can happen with a loose chain!

Could possibly also be a worn cush drive.

I'd wait for someone with more technical knowledge than me before reaching a conclusion though.

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[GSeX]

Was going to suggest a loose chain, but you're not talking about how to do a burnout are you?? If you need the chain adjusted or aren't sure how, can bring it around sometime

[bogan]

The jerking could be not getting up enough revs before changing up a gear.

Oh yeh, that reminds me; biketimus, there are quite a few people on here who tend to give advice to hear themselves type, rather than to give helpful advice... so take it all with a healthy grain of salt.

[biketimus_prime]

Oh yeh, that reminds me; biketimus, there are quite a few people on here who tend to give advice to hear themselves type, rather than to give helpful advice... so take it all with a healthy grain of salt.

Haha thanks that is the case on all forums I reckon but cassina did give some good advice about the torque wrench :)


Buy yourself a torque wrench for wheel nuts as I found tightening them by hand may just not be enough. I found out a wheel I had tightened by hand had worked loose over 2 days. I do normally tighten with a torque wrench anyway but did not do it as I was in a hurry to get a WOF before they closed. They are handy to have for any aluminium threads too as they can be easily stripped by hand tightening.

Yeah I've got one in my tool set. Do you know what torque they tighten that nut to? Can't find any info on the owners manual.


Was going to suggest a loose chain, but you're not talking about how to do a burnout are you?? If you need the chain adjusted or aren't sure how, can bring it around sometime

Nah not how to do a burnout! Tyres save lives! I did think it was the chain being loose, but the thing is I have it tightened to within spec and it still did it even on the first drive. It feels more like when I get on the gas that the clutch once again engages to the engine with a hard hit (but I'm not using the clutch, it was already engaged). Like your diff in a car clunking when you let on and off the gas, it's that feeling.. Also thanks for the offer for adjusting the chain though :)

[GSeX]

My bike done that when the clutch needed adjusting cause it wasn't fully engaging. It's the adjuster at the lever itself - could be that?

[biketimus_prime]

Owners manuals don't usually give torque settings. You have to buy a workshop manual for them and they would be different for each bike/size of bolt.

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.


My bike done that when the clutch needed adjusting cause it wasn't fully engaging. It's the adjuster at the lever itself - could be that?

I'll have a look, the clutch engages very close to the end of the lever's stroke

[george formby]

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.



I'll have a look, the clutch engages very close to the end of the lever's stroke

Yeah, jerkiness could be clutch or chain. I'm not gonna go back through the thread but releasing front brake & winding on the throttle when you pull away takes practice, correctly adjusted levers, throttle & preferably large hands. Use the back brake instead.
You may not be fully releasing the clutch lever if it bites so close to the end of it's travel. Try & get into the habit of having four fingers on your levers to use them or four fingers on the grips. I used to ride with a couple of fingers covering brake & clutch until I got some training which pointed out the error of my ways. I still do this when I may need to react very quickly, high pedestrian areas, chaotic traffic situations etc. Otherwise it's the full fist round the grips.
If you can get the part number for the work shop manual, google it. Prolly be able to download it for free.

[Murray]

Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.



I have to get a workshop manual myself for a bike and agree with you they are hard to get.

Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/10556-Lotsa-manuals-online

[george formby]

Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/10556-Lotsa-manuals-online

Thank you. I struggle wid search function but that is what I had in mind. Must bookmark.

After a quick squiz I never realised how many different GSX 250's there are.:shit:

[biketimus_prime]

[QUOTE=biketimus_prime;1130692615]Alright I'll try get my hands on a workshop manual somehow. I've got so many manuals for my car over the years, but it seems to be quite hard to find bike stuff.

I have to get a workshop manual myself for a bike and agree with you they are hard to get. Maybe the shops don't want to sell them anymore as it does their service depts out of business with not so many being bikes being sold today. Ordering one online from overseas would be the way to go I guess.

Yeah I did some searching and best thing I could find was that most nuts for the rear axle get tightened to 72.5 FT-Lbs, so I set my wrench to that and got tightening, I had the nut way too loose when I did it by hand...
Checked chain tension and it was still the same as before though. Round 30mm of movement.


Yeah, jerkiness could be clutch or chain. I'm not gonna go back through the thread but releasing front brake & winding on the throttle when you pull away takes practice, correctly adjusted levers, throttle & preferably large hands. Use the back brake instead.
You may not be fully releasing the clutch lever if it bites so close to the end of it's travel. Try & get into the habit of having four fingers on your levers to use them or four fingers on the grips. I used to ride with a couple of fingers covering brake & clutch until I got some training which pointed out the error of my ways. I still do this when I may need to react very quickly, high pedestrian areas, chaotic traffic situations etc. Otherwise it's the full fist round the grips.
If you can get the part number for the work shop manual, google it. Prolly be able to download it for free.

Thanks for the advice :)
I use the back brake to hold me before I take off, be it on a hill or flat, just so I have my whole hand free to operate the throttle. Oh also my left hand grip rolls around and isn't fixed in place, what is the best thing to glue it down with or what are you meant to do?


Try searching this thread

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/10556-Lotsa-manuals-online

Thank you, couldn't find what I was after though but it's somewhere to start.



Oh also I signed up to the bronze course of this: http://www.prorider.co.nz/motorcycle-training-courses.php?course=31
For the 30th of March, anyone else going?

[GSeX]

There will be bolts or screws holding the two halves of the lever mount to the bar - tighten those up

[HollowsX]

Going all the way back to you're original question about lane splitting. I've been told by multiple sources, its a good idea to travel <20kph faster than the rest of traffic when filtering or lane splitting and to not undertake, ever. Preferably.

[HollowsX]

Also as a new rider, it may be worth checking out the ACC and AT sponsored courses. Pro Rider does them in Auckland. At the price they are, you can't go wrong even if it was just to ask everything :)

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[biketimus_prime]

There will be bolts or screws holding the two halves of the lever mount to the bar - tighten those up

Not my lever that's loose. The rubber grip on my handlebar, it squirms around.


Going all the way back to you're original question about lane splitting. I've been told by multiple sources, its a good idea to travel <20kph faster than the rest of traffic when filtering or lane splitting and to not undertake, ever. Preferably.

Thanks for the tip. I'll first get better at riding before attempting anything in traffic :)


Also as a new rider, it may be worth checking out the ACC and AT sponsored courses. Pro Rider does them in Auckland. At the price they are, you can't go wrong even if it was just to ask everything :)

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Yep I signed up to the Pro Rider course coming up on the 30th