New shock - first impressions

[sil3nt]

End of last year I started talking to Mr RT about shock options for my VFR 400 NC30. I had asked him a few years ago but never had the money. Back then Ohlins was the only decent option he had. This time though he had a Nitron (http://www.nitron.co.uk/Motorcycles/Honda/VFR/vfr400-nc30) to temp me. He reckons they are a quality brand comparable with Ohlins. I should have asked how many MotoGP championships they have won :whistle: But seriously I always do my own research and Nitron are a popular brand in the UK so I thought why the hell not! I just had to hope I didn't get a dud like this poor bugger:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh-yDSjkvXk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QasHG2ZiN8

There were 4 different options too choose so I went for the most expensive '3-Way Race Shock' (http://www.nitron.co.uk/Motorcycles/Honda/VFR/vfr400-nc30/honda-vfr400-nc30-89-93-ntr-race-shock-3-way)

I couldn't get to New Plymouth to get RT to do all the work but no worries RT said 'You could fit it yourself, easy as' :killingme
Obviously doesn't know me at all. I have managed to fuck up every oil change I have done :rolleyes: So I went to the shop last week and asked them how much. They said they have never done one before but quoted 2 hours. Fine by me it would have taken me 2 weeks and I would have broken something important. Dropped it off this morning a long with my Haynes manual with a cheeky bookmark to the shock removal page. They obviously used it because the bookmark wasn't there when I got the bike back! They also had to tighten up the steering head bearing. Glad they found that because the bike was handling like shit yesterday. First half of the ride was fine but coming home the bike felt incredibly loose like it had a puncture.

So after work I pick the bike up and take a slightly longer route home. This route took in some bumpy country roads. First impression? Not much different to the old shock. The old shock had its preload maxed out so it was very harsh. Zero static sag and about 20mm rider sag (I never measured the rider sag properly). It would kick me out of the seat on large bumps. The Nitron was doing the same although not quite as bad. It also seemed to upset the front end a fair bit. I will have to do some more testing on roads I am familiar with.

As the shock was custom built in the UK by some bloke that only knows my weight and not what I am using it for I believe it is currently set up for the track. I will have to go through and set up the static and rider sag at some point. So first impression is not so good.

But there were positives. Eye to eye the original shock is 310mm. The Nitron is adjustable and I left it as it came in the box which was 330mm. So a 20mm increase in shock length plus whatever the linkage multiplies that by and I have a higher rear end. This is meant to help the bike turn in. Did it? Yep! The raised rear end (combined with a tightened steering head!) had the bike easily turning into corners and quite happily holding a line rather than pushing wide. I test rode a 2013 ZX6R and that thing blew me away how it would fall into corners so easily. I reckon my old bike is almost as good now!

So some negatives and positives and with my riding most likely going to be 50:50 track and road I need to find a setup that works for both. I also need to send the forks off to get the magic touch from RT. Hopefully I can get that done before the next track day in April.

[nzspokes]

Its set 20mm longer???? Did Robert set it up like that? Ive not lifted many bikes but the most ive heard of is 6mm.

Learn something everyday.

[nzspokes]

I would be checking that with RT before you ride it again.

[sil3nt]

I would be checking that with RT before you ride it again.
For years I have been reading about ride height changes to this bike. Just had a quick look and 35mm is what most people seem to aim for. They do this by changing linkages with the NC35. From what I understand the NC30 linkage is 3.5:1 so to raise the rear end 35mm you would need a shock that is 10mm longer. So if my measurements were correct the 20mm extra on the shock translates into a 70mm increase in ride height. That does sound like a lot! I can't say I noticed anything too drastic when sitting on the bike. I can still touch the ground easily. Changing the ride height would mean removing the shock which is not something I am prepared to do right now!

[nzspokes]

For years I have been reading about ride height changes to this bike. Just had a quick look and 35mm is what most people seem to aim for. They do this by changing linkages with the NC35. From what I understand the NC30 linkage is 3.5:1 so to raise the rear end 35mm you would need a shock that is 10mm longer. So if my measurements were correct the 20mm extra on the shock translates into a 70mm increase in ride height. That does sound like a lot! I can't say I noticed anything too drastic when sitting on the bike. I can still touch the ground easily. Changing the ride height would mean removing the shock which is not something I am prepared to do right now!

Thats the biggest lift I have heard of, seriously check with RT first as he is the expert. I see a tank slapper in your future.

I could be wrong but It would pay to check.

[sil3nt]

Thats the biggest lift I have heard of, seriously check with RT first as he is the expert. I see a tank slapper in your future.

I could be wrong but It would pay to check.I am fairly confident Nitron wouldn't be selling something that is going to kill me. Although maybe it could explain the unstable front end over the bumps. Testing a death trap is all part of the fun :woohoo:

I have no idea if any of my calculations are right. Although I am sure I measured the shocks correctly.

[nzspokes]

I am fairly confident Nitron wouldn't be selling something that is going to kill me. Although maybe it could explain the unstable front end over the bumps. Testing a death trap is all part of the fun :woohoo:

I have no idea if any of my calculations are right. Although I am sure I measured the shocks correctly.

Well I would be happier wrong than you crashed. Was it adjustable for length?

[Mort]

+1 for Nitron

I have one on my R1 and it is superb. Great engineering and well below Ohlins cost. Very happy with it.

[AllanB]

The bells and whistle one is length adjustable.

[sil3nt]

The bells and whistle one is length adjustable.
Yep. +6mm -1mm. Although no base setting was written anywhere and I didn't touch it so no idea what it is at now.

[Icemaestro]

Pretty much everyone with an nc30 over in the UK raises the rear by at least 20mm....Rick O sells linkages purely for that it is so popular. It massively improves the steering, I have the BMW shock in mine that raises a similar amount, last one had the rs250 shock that did the same - swapped it out for a stocker last time to see what it was like - never again!

Not sure the Nitron guys would have been able to set up preload, damping for you though yeah? They just would have it at factory spec, but the spring would be for your weight? so you might find things improve when to fiddle around. Also as you said it will be set up for the track so could probably do with a little softening if the roads where I am are any indication.

My only other thought is as to have to set up your front with the rear now? as you will need to with a much improved shock...do you have stock latter cartridge forks? RO internals or anything?

[Robert Taylor]

I have nothing to hide in respect of our work and backup, when asked for. In that light it might have been more ideal to dial in the shock prior to posting on a site ( like all forums ) that can be a haven for keyboard instant experts. And those predisposed to poking borax.

Did you measure the rider sag and if so where is it set? That is a major pre-requisite for any shock, irrespective of where it came from and supposedly that it is preset. Riders in themselves are so variable, therefore the setup required is variable. With the shock comes a setup card but also a manual explaining how to adjust it, if that is not completely understood I am but a phone call or e-mail away and have a habit of answering reasonably quickly.

In respect of Ohlins the shock for that is many many years out of production and I would have had to build it, albeit at a much higher price and it would have been arguable whether I would have made any profit on it given that building such a shock from scratch is rather more than a 5 minute job! Businesses including those that sell and service suspension have to make a fair and reasonable profit.

You have this shock in a 3 way. If you start backing out the high speed compression adjuster you will be surprised how much affect that has on ride quality. If the rebound is too slow that will cause harshness. See my videos on Youtube re setting clickers.

The increase in ride height is typically required for this model but if the rider sag is a smaller number than it should be then the increase that you have in base ride height will be a little distorted.

That same improvement in geometry is now highlighting the inherent weakness in the front end. Once that is reworked with at minimum suitable springing and oil viscosity / level it will work a whole load better, the bike will be balanced and it will make the rear shock work a lot better again because it wont be constantly ''see sawing'' that front end and therefore unloading the rear a little.

You may wish to try lowering the ride height a little ( after confirming what your rider sag is first ) If there isnt enough flexibility in that respect we will shorten the shock for you at no further charge excepting freight recovery costs

[Robert Taylor]

Ive just watched those 2 ( on the face of it mischievous ) Youtube videos. Was there any elaboration? How much preload was there on the main spring and what was the base rebound click setting?
Aside from any stupid issues going on did the guy seek a resolution and or was it in his makeup to be a total cock? Theres always two sides to a story but there are always private individuals who go out of their way to be as nasty as possible and to feel important by posting such stuff on the net.
If there was a manufacturing problem the manufacturer ( like all good manufacturers ) and / or their representatives would put it right. Maybe they offered to put it right but refused ( as a randomn example ) to do it on a Sunday night? Like I said two sides to every story.
The good Swedish brand has the occassional issue and that is why we have a no argument warranty policy. Same for any product we sell.

Indeed that video is a good indicator of overslow rebound and this is something we come across many many times where the owner has screwed in the rebound clicker way too far

[sil3nt]

Ive just watched those 2 ( on the face of it mischievous ) Youtube videos. Was there any elaboration? How much preload was there on the main spring and what was the base rebound click setting?
Aside from any stupid issues going on did the guy seek a resolution and or was it in his makeup to be a total cock? Theres always two sides to a story but there are always private individuals who go out of their way to be as nasty as possible and to feel important by posting such stuff on the net.
If there was a manufacturing problem the manufacturer ( like all good manufacturers ) and / or their representatives would put it right. Maybe they offered to put it right but refused ( as a randomn example ) to do it on a Sunday night? Like I said two sides to every story.
The good Swedish brand has the occassional issue and that is why we have a no argument warranty policy. Same for any product we sell.

Indeed that video is a good indicator of overslow rebound and this is something we come across many many times where the owner has screwed in the rebound clicker way too farHi Robert. Full story about those videos here: http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=39722

Short story: Yes it was resolved.

Will be setting the sag tonight although probably won't get to ride the bike.

If I had any serious concerns about the product I would be emailing you not posting here!

[Robert Taylor]

Hi Robert. Full story about those videos here: http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=39722

Short story: Yes it was resolved.

Will be setting the sag tonight although probably won't get to ride the bike.

If I had any serious concerns about the product I would be emailing you not posting here!

Yes that guy is no longer the distributor in Australia, he was incapable of locally sorting out the issue.

[sil3nt]

Some rough measurements. I say rough because I find it hard to get an accurate measurement from the same spot. What is straight up with no weight on the wheel is no longer straight up with the bike sitting normally.

No weight: 420mm
Static: 410mm
Rider: 385mm

Static sag: 10mm
Rider sag: 35mm

Like I say very rough. Still it shows an improvement over stock. Stock shock there was zero static sag. Never did measure rider sag with stock shock though but I would have guessed 10-20mm.

So what is ideal for me? RT says in this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo) that rider sag should be 24-27mm for track and 27-35 for road and static sag 5-10mm although he was referring to a race bike for that.
The Nitron manual says static sag 5-15mm and rider sag 30-40mm for road and 25-35mm for track.

So good news! The sag appears to be fine. Although I will try and get a more accurate reading at some stage.

Now I need to find time to test ride the bike. The initial test was on a road I have ridden only once or twice before and it was a lot bumpier than what I would normally encounter. Thankfully I have a lot of good roads around me so hopefully I can get out there later this week and do some testing.

[AllanB]

Check the front too - no point setting the rear to near perfection of the front is miles off .......

[Robert Taylor]

Some rough measurements. I say rough because I find it hard to get an accurate measurement from the same spot. What is straight up with no weight on the wheel is no longer straight up with the bike sitting normally.

No weight: 420mm
Static: 410mm
Rider: 385mm

Static sag: 10mm
Rider sag: 35mm

Like I say very rough. Still it shows an improvement over stock. Stock shock there was zero static sag. Never did measure rider sag with stock shock though but I would have guessed 10-20mm.

So what is ideal for me? RT says in this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjGgq1z9zbo) that rider sag should be 24-27mm for track and 27-35 for road and static sag 5-10mm although he was referring to a race bike for that.
The Nitron manual says static sag 5-15mm and rider sag 30-40mm for road and 25-35mm for track.

So good news! The sag appears to be fine. Although I will try and get a more accurate reading at some stage.

Now I need to find time to test ride the bike. The initial test was on a road I have ridden only once or twice before and it was a lot bumpier than what I would normally encounter. Thankfully I have a lot of good roads around me so hopefully I can get out there later this week and do some testing.

Ok, we will call this then ''roughly indicative''. Please only use a 1/4 inch wide measuring tape ( if you havent been already ) Wide builders tapes are so wide and clumsy when you engage on a narrow edge you can stuff the accuracy and repeatability up by 3-5mm , often more.

Cynically I will ask 10 different people to measure the sag on exactly the same bike and get 10 different readings. !!!!!!!!!!!????????????

I would like you to e-mail to me ( my regular e-mail address ) a full side profile shot of the bike sitting under its own weight and settled
Adjustment of the high speed compression adjuster will fine tune abrupt bump compliance, that is what it is there for.

Correctly identified by a number who posted here, you will not fully liberate the potential of that new shock until you balance the package and get it to work totally in unison by up-specing the front end

[Robert Taylor]

Ok, we will call this then ''roughly indicative''. Please only use a 1/4 inch wide measuring tape ( if you havent been already ) Wide builders tapes are so wide and clumsy when you engage on a narrow edge you can stuff the accuracy and repeatability up by 3-5mm , often more.

Cynically I will ask 10 different people to measure the sag on exactly the same bike and get 10 different readings. !!!!!!!!!!!????????????

I would like you to e-mail to me ( my regular e-mail address ) a full side profile shot of the bike sitting under its own weight and settled
Adjustment of the high speed compression adjuster will fine tune abrupt bump compliance, that is what it is there for.

Correctly identified by a number who posted here, you will not fully liberate the potential of that new shock until you balance the package and get it to work totally in unison by up-specing the front end

FURTHER

Our backup is pretty sincere. If for any reason the spring rate or settings are not quite ideal for any suspension unit we supply we will change the setting at no further charge, excepting freight recovery costs. You dont get that if you buy from North Mexico.

Also we are the only motorcycle suspension people in NZ who are so committed we have spent tens of thousands of dollars on a suspension dyno. We can graphically quantify damping so we are not ''flying blind''.

[sil3nt]

I will get those photos and email you, hopefully tonight.

I have also ordered new fork seals (including dust seals and retaining clip) and upper and lower bushes for the forks. No idea if I needed any of that but I figured it couldn't hurt. Once those arrive I will send them off with the forks so you, Mr RT, can work your magic :woohoo:

[sil3nt]

Took one click out of the high speed compression damping and rode to work this morning. I can't tell if the one click made a difference as this is only the second time on the bike with the new shock but the ride felt pretty damn good! Being on a familiar road where I know all the bumps meant I could easily feel the difference between the stock shock and the Nitron.

[insomnia01]

Hi Jonathan, if your still in the same place I visited you at last time, using Te pahu road as a test road would be ideal :yes: if not, then whatever loop/road you chose to test settings use the same road each time to identify changes in shock setup

[sil3nt]

Hi Jonathan, if your still in the same place I visited you at last time, using Te pahu road as a test road would be ideal :yes: if not, then whatever loop/road you chose to test settings use the same road each time to identify changes in shock setupYep was going to use Te Pahu :yes:

There are a few nasty bumps on that road :eek:

[insomnia01]

a good test road close to you I reckon !!! once you know where the bumps are you'll remember them :eek5:

[Robert Taylor]

I will get those photos and email you, hopefully tonight.

I have also ordered new fork seals (including dust seals and retaining clip) and upper and lower bushes for the forks. No idea if I needed any of that but I figured it couldn't hurt. Once those arrive I will send them off with the forks so you, Mr RT, can work your magic :woohoo:

Ok, havent seen anything yet but have also been away for 4 days at road race Nationals. Only use sales@kss.net.nz for e-mail . What brand of fork seals did you order? We have a black list of some brands we just will not use.

[nzspokes]

Ok, havent seen anything yet but have also been away for 4 days at road race Nationals. Only use sales@kss.net.nz for e-mail . What brand of fork seals did you order? We have a black list of some brands we just will not use.

Is one of those brands KiwiX? I had trouble in the past with fork seals so got some from Honda for my Hornet. I thought they were genuine but clicked when I re-looked at the box they are not. Have been told genuine is normally the best. I got these kiwiX ones and I cant get them to seal.

Do you have a preferred brand?

[sil3nt]

Ok, havent seen anything yet but have also been away for 4 days at road race Nationals. Only use sales@kss.net.nz for e-mail . What brand of fork seals did you order? We have a black list of some brands we just will not use.Everything I purchased was labelled as OEM replacement. ARX seems to be the brand for the fork seals.

Sorry haven't emailed you yet as I have been too lazy to take photos.

I did measure front sag. Don't remember 100% but it was something like 125mm dust seal to bottom of triple clamp fully extended. The bike took this down to around 70mm. Cranked the preload up as much as I dare and it is currently sitting between 80 and 90mm I believe. Took it for a test ride and the front felt a lot better. Can't wait to get it sorted with some proper springs!

[Robert Taylor]

Is one of those brands KiwiX? I had trouble in the past with fork seals so got some from Honda for my Hornet. I thought they were genuine but clicked when I re-looked at the box they are not. Have been told genuine is normally the best. I got these kiwiX ones and I cant get them to seal.

Do you have a preferred brand?

You always have to very specifically request GENUINE if that is what you want. Many aftermarket ''offerings'' are made of less pliable material with shall we say ''cheaper tolerancing''. There are some nasty 3 lip seals claimed to be leakproof when in fact they are not and they MASSIVELY increase friction. If installed into forks with low friction outer coatings these seals will wear off such coatings in short order. Thats not good, especially if the bike manufacturer unfairly gets the finger pointed at them for same.
Genuine seals are always a safe bet as they are usually Japanese NOK brand. Athena are a very decent brand and well priced. Top level stuff now is available as SKF fork and dust seals. High priced but in the dirty world of puddle jumping ( MX and StupidCross ) their low friction properties and life is outstanding. Now standard fitment on many WP forks on those orange Austrian curiosities and on Ohlins MX forks. High priced but cheaper than continually throwing in internet sourced budget no name no pedigree seals.
The rest of it is about constantly looking after the cleanliness and condition of the sliders. Brake pad dust, insect collision build up, pitting, vertical line scoring, road grime and dust etc. Bushings. Are the sliders also worn very smooth?

[Robert Taylor]

Everything I purchased was labelled as OEM replacement. ARX seems to be the brand for the fork seals.

Sorry haven't emailed you yet as I have been too lazy to take photos.

I did measure front sag. Don't remember 100% but it was something like 125mm dust seal to bottom of triple clamp fully extended. The bike took this down to around 70mm. Cranked the preload up as much as I dare and it is currently sitting between 80 and 90mm I believe. Took it for a test ride and the front felt a lot better. Can't wait to get it sorted with some proper springs!

See my prejudices re fork seals, from long experience. Theres always nasty further cost down the track with cheaper products because corners are cut to deliver low price.

The numbers that you have rattled off are the source of your bikes imbalance and the rear shock will work way way better once the front end is matched to it. Under the weight of the bike only it should sink into its stroke by 25-30mm, expressed from fully extended. With rider on board add 10-15mm on top of that figure.

Until that is sorted you will not be able to make a fair appraisal of the rear.

In terms of backing out the high speed compression adjuster try taking it out another click, then another until you get to a point where it will clearly blow through its stroke too readily. Try this on the same road with the same bumps

[nzspokes]

You always have to very specifically request GENUINE if that is what you want. Many aftermarket ''offerings'' are made of less pliable material with shall we say ''cheaper tolerancing''. There are some nasty 3 lip seals claimed to be leakproof when in fact they are not and they MASSIVELY increase friction. If installed into forks with low friction outer coatings these seals will wear off such coatings in short order. Thats not good, especially if the bike manufacturer unfairly gets the finger pointed at them for same.
Genuine seals are always a safe bet as they are usually Japanese NOK brand. Athena are a very decent brand and well priced. Top level stuff now is available as SKF fork and dust seals. High priced but in the dirty world of puddle jumping ( MX and StupidCross ) their low friction properties and life is outstanding. Now standard fitment on many WP forks on those orange Austrian curiosities and on Ohlins MX forks. High priced but cheaper than continually throwing in internet sourced budget no name no pedigree seals.
The rest of it is about constantly looking after the cleanliness and condition of the sliders. Brake pad dust, insect collision build up, pitting, vertical line scoring, road grime and dust etc. Bushings. Are the sliders also worn very smooth?

I do keep the forks clean, something Im big on. The seals I got are NOK after looking closer at them. The sliders are very polished over the seal area. When you run the seal over the area by hand its much easier to move. Guess then my tubes are stuffed?

[Robert Taylor]

I do keep the forks clean, something Im big on. The seals I got are NOK after looking closer at them. The sliders are very polished over the seal area. When you run the seal over the area by hand its much easier to move. Guess then my tubes are stuffed?

( Sight unseen ) They should be measured for wear as a matter of course. The sliding surfaces can be re cross hatched in a lathe with several applications of 600 grit emery and light oil

[nzspokes]

( Sight unseen ) They should be measured for wear as a matter of course. The sliding surfaces can be re cross hatched in a lathe with several applications of 600 grit emery and light oil

I suspect thats the issue but im at a point of not putting anymore money into this bike. What would you consider a wear limit to be? I will measure tonight. but the seal moves far easier over the wear area. At a guess replacing the fork tubes would be more than the value of the bike.

[Robert Taylor]

I suspect thats the issue but im at a point of not putting anymore money into this bike. What would you consider a wear limit to be? I will measure tonight. but the seal moves far easier over the wear area. At a guess replacing the fork tubes would be more than the value of the bike.

If you get them ACCURATELY micrometer ( not vernier caliper! ) checked at the wear thrust points and in unworn section and advise

[nzspokes]

If you get them ACCURATELY micrometer ( not vernier caliper! ) checked at the wear thrust points and in unworn section and advise

I dont have a micrometer any more. I have been told to use scotch bright on them.

I feel a dollar auction coming up.

[sil3nt]

Look what arrived!
295569

Look pretty genuine to me :yes: Well except for the seals. No idea who ARX are.

Funny how I can take photos of this but not what I was asked.

Email coming your way about the forks Robert.

[sil3nt]

Forks have now been done.

Have done a couple of short test rides and have been impressed. Holding a line through a corner is effortless and I am no longer feeling every little bump in the road.

My last ride before I put the shock in I noticed the steering was getting worse and worse. Almost like it was backwards. Turned out it was the steering head bearings. Today I was starting to get the feeling again. Something was not quite right. I looked down and saw the stem nut cap sitting on the tank :eek5:

The stem nut was loose enough for me to undo it with my fingers. I pulled over punched the cap back in and tightened the stem nut as much as I could. I turned around and headed straight for home. On the way the cap fell out again. Any large bump was enough to pop it out. No idea wtf is going on with this. The bike hadn't been ridden since (well less than 100k) they tightened the bearings so will go back to the shop and see what they say.

[sil3nt]

Sure enough the bearings were loose again. Will be interesting to see how long it takes for them too loosen up this time....

[nzspokes]

You always have to very specifically request GENUINE if that is what you want. Many aftermarket ''offerings'' are made of less pliable material with shall we say ''cheaper tolerancing''.

Bit of a thread dredge but can these seals give sticktion? as a rough feeling so small bumps? Reason i ask is last week an Ohlins came up for the right price on TM, so now its on and making a huge improvement the front now feels a bit harsh over the little ripples. Over bigger hits its fine. I did get All Balls seals for it as that was all I could get in a hurry when I did the forks(they were leaking very badly when I got he bike). I think spring rate is good.

So do wonder if the seals could be grabbing a little. Happy to swap them out with OEM as I wanted to strip the forks again soon to change the fork oil.

Also whats your take on fork braces? From what im reading its common for VTRs to be fitted with braces, on bikes that track day a bit. They say it steadys the bike. Would be interested in your thoughts.

[Robert Taylor]

Bit of a thread dredge but can these seals give sticktion? as a rough feeling so small bumps? Reason i ask is last week an Ohlins came up for the right price on TM, so now its on and making a huge improvement the front now feels a bit harsh over the little ripples. Over bigger hits its fine. I did get All Balls seals for it as that was all I could get in a hurry when I did the forks(they were leaking very badly when I got he bike). I think spring rate is good.

So do wonder if the seals could be grabbing a little. Happy to swap them out with OEM as I wanted to strip the forks again soon to change the fork oil.

Also whats your take on fork braces? From what im reading its common for VTRs to be fitted with braces, on bikes that track day a bit. They say it steadys the bike. Would be interested in your thoughts.

Yes the friction those seals induce is massive and we refuse point blank to fit them. If they are combined with forks with low friction coatings they will wear it away in short order. NOK or SKF are the very best seals. OEM are often NOK brand.

[Robert Taylor]

Bit of a thread dredge but can these seals give sticktion? as a rough feeling so small bumps? Reason i ask is last week an Ohlins came up for the right price on TM, so now its on and making a huge improvement the front now feels a bit harsh over the little ripples. Over bigger hits its fine. I did get All Balls seals for it as that was all I could get in a hurry when I did the forks(they were leaking very badly when I got he bike). I think spring rate is good.

So do wonder if the seals could be grabbing a little. Happy to swap them out with OEM as I wanted to strip the forks again soon to change the fork oil.

Also whats your take on fork braces? From what im reading its common for VTRs to be fitted with braces, on bikes that track day a bit. They say it steadys the bike. Would be interested in your thoughts.

Fork braces are useful where there is very little rigidity stock. But often they should be renamed ''fork bind braces'' if they have no facility to compensate for tolerance stack up

[nzspokes]

Yes the friction those seals induce is massive and we refuse point blank to fit them. If they are combined with forks with low friction coatings they will wear it away in short order. NOK or SKF are the very best seals. OEM are often NOK brand.

Where can I get the SKF ones from?

[Robert Taylor]

Where can I get the SKF ones from?

Supply in all sizes is patchy at present, in the meantime go for oem

[sil3nt]

So last time I posted I had just had the steering head bearings re-tightened. I went to a trackday at Hampton Downs that weekend and had a bit of a ride around. The track was cold all day and I just wasn't really in the best of moods to enjoy it. Could feel the steering head bearing moving around under hard braking which is not exactly good. It was the first outing on track with the updated fork internals. I don't actually have much to say about them at the moment given the steering head bearings were shit which messed with the feeling from the front end. I did notice I was able to trail brake into corners now. Before the updated internals the bike wouldn't want to turn until completely off the brakes. I was running the forks flush with the top yoke rather than the 10mm sticking through that I had before. This slowed the steering down quite a lot. I wanted to run flush with the top yoke to see what effect this would have. Will experiment with different levels of fork showing through the top yoke and find something that suits me.

After the trackday I had new steering head bearings put in. The ride home felt a lot better. Just need to rebuild the brakes before I can head out again.

[Crasherfromwayback]

Its set 20mm longer???? Did Robert set it up like that? Ive not lifted many bikes but the most ive heard of is 6mm.

.

That's nothing.

[nzspokes]

Fork braces are useful where there is very little rigidity stock. But often they should be renamed ''fork bind braces'' if they have no facility to compensate for tolerance stack up

This is the one that has been recommended, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coerce-Fork-Brace-Stabilizer-Honda-VTR1000F-Firestorm-Superhawk-VTR1000-/291154123487?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ca235adf&vxp=mtr

But thanks for your help.:niceone:

These Ohlins shock things seem to work ok as well.

[Robert Taylor]

This is the one that has been recommended, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Coerce-Fork-Brace-Stabilizer-Honda-VTR1000F-Firestorm-Superhawk-VTR1000-/291154123487?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ca235adf&vxp=mtr

But thanks for your help.:niceone:

These Ohlins shock things seem to work ok as well.

Yes thats a nice looking piece of kit. Essentially it has a centre plate that can be loosened so that the forks are not squeezed inwards or outwards. As can happen with nasty one piece forkbraces. Everytime the front wheel is removed and refitted it is essential to add to the fitting etiquette loosening and retightening of that braces centreplate

[nzspokes]

Yes thats a nice looking piece of kit. Essentially it has a centre plate that can be loosened so that the forks are not squeezed inwards or outwards. As can happen with nasty one piece forkbraces. Everytime the front wheel is removed and refitted it is essential to add to the fitting etiquette loosening and retightening of that braces centreplate

Yeah I thought that as well. Will order one in a week or so.