Couple of annoying issues 2004 GSX250

[biketimus_prime]

Hi guys,

Couple of issues have risen since I've been riding around now.

First:

My clutch engages near the end of my lever travel (when I almost let go of it). I tried adjusting it and there is enough free play and it engages and disengages just fine, it's just annoying that it is so far at the end of the travel. I've adjusted the cable to get the right free play but is there another adjustment that my owners manual does not show to adjust the bite point?

Second:

When I try accelerate hard in first and second, the bike revs hard till about 4000 then seems to feel like it has hit a wall and struggle to rev hard, it then passes that point slowly and revs just fine all the rest of the way. If I just accelerate normally up to third and over, it will rev just fine throughout the range after that. However you can just feel it isn't very alive at the mid range, it goes well in the high RPMs (over 7ish) up to redline (haven't tried in 1st 2nd or 3rd to redline, only in 4th and over).

Also as this issue has come up, my fuel mileage has decreased, I got 300km to a tank when I first got the bike, it is now down to just over 200km.
Also when I rev the engine at idle, it doesn't seem to be as rev-happy as my mate's hyosung 250.
Bike seems to ride just fine if I don't rev it too much and works fine for commuting, just annoying to have bad fuel mileage...

Any help and input appreciated. I can do mechanical work myself but if the carb needs tuning or something I'll probably need a mechanic with experience, so suggestions for one on the north shore in auckland would be cool.
Thanks in advance :)

[nzspokes]

As riders become more used to there bikes they rev them harder and the fuel economy drops. Have you changed brands of fuel you use?

Does sound like you may have a bit of crap in a carb, just drain the bowls to start with but it could be a transition port thats blocked.

[biketimus_prime]

As riders become more used to there bikes they rev them harder and the fuel economy drops. Have you changed brands of fuel you use?

Does sound like you may have a bit of crap in a carb, just drain the bowls to start with but it could be a transition port thats blocked.

I haven't been riding it any differently to when I got it apart from more motorway driving. I use Z 95 which is what the last owner used too.

How do I go about draining the bowls and doing that stuff? Any guides for my particular bike? Still trying to find a workshop manual too :/

[jellywrestler]

it may have the wrong clutch lever fitted and not providing the correct leverage.

[FJRider]

Hi guys,

Couple of issues have risen since I've been riding around now.



Clutch ... apart from fitting adjustable levers ... so there isn't as long a reach to the lever ... not a lot of options left. The clutch may be "on it's way out"

Issues 2 & 3 may be the same problem. My guess the air filter is blocked/dirty. Not getting the right fuel/air mixture will cause both problems ...

[Akzle]

get new sparkenators.

[ducatilover]

Adjust the clutch down under the fairings on the adjuster, follow the cable and you will find it.
Get someone decent to look at the bike with the fueling issue, could be a few things, float levels, poo in places, slides sticking whilst lifting and whatnot

[biketimus_prime]

it may have the wrong clutch lever fitted and not providing the correct leverage.
Nah it's the standard one I'm 100% sure of it, bike is untouched.


Clutch ... apart from fitting adjustable levers ... so there isn't as long a reach to the lever ... not a lot of options left. The clutch may be "on it's way out

Issues 2 & 3 may be the same problem. My guess the air filter is blocked/dirty. Not getting the right fuel/air mixture will cause both problems ...

Can't be on it's way out as it is such low mileage, doesn't slip and works just fine, just that it engages so late. I did manage to adjust it a bit more towards the middle but not much.
I'll have a look at the air filter next time. I haven't had a chance to explore under the bike yet.


get new sparkenators.

New sparkenators were done in september last year and it has done about 5000km since, CR8E plugs. Perhaps they need re-gapping or something.


Adjust the clutch down under the fairings on the adjuster, follow the cable and you will find it.
Get someone decent to look at the bike with the fueling issue, could be a few things, float levels, poo in places, slides sticking whilst lifting and whatnot

Already adjusted it there and at the lever. I read online that other bikes have a hidden adjustment that you need the workshop manual to find, which allows you to adjust the biting point. I was wondering if my bike has the same.

Will try find a decent place. Does anyone know a mechanic that doesn't charge an arm and a leg on the shore? I never trusted mechanics on my cars and have done the work myself always, but carbs are a different world to me!

[FJRider]

Can't be on it's way out as it is such low mileage, doesn't slip and works just fine, just that it engages so late. I did manage to adjust it a bit more towards the middle but not much.
I'll have a look at the air filter next time. I haven't had a chance to explore under the bike yet.

If it works just fine ... why mention it in this thread .. ???

It's a 10 year old bike. They (clutches) don't last forever ... Do it while you can. Not when you NEED too ...

There are more broken bits when you DO need to ...


You'll have a look at the filter "NEXT TIME" ...??? You start a thread about your bikes issues ... and you say "You will have a look next time" ... so you are happy the way it is .... ???


New sparkenators were done in september last year and it has done about 5000km since, CR8E plugs. Perhaps they need re-gapping or something.

Or something .. ?? :scratch: What is this something .. ???

Plugs don't last forever either ... replace them ... more good than bad to do so. :laugh:

If you think you know better ... in future ... DON'T ask ... :pinch:

[ducatilover]

New sparkenators were done in september last year and it has done about 5000km since, CR8E plugs. Perhaps they need re-gapping or something.



Already adjusted it there and at the lever. I read online that other bikes have a hidden adjustment that you need the workshop manual to find, which allows you to adjust the biting point. I was wondering if my bike has the same.

Will try find a decent place. Does anyone know a mechanic that doesn't charge an arm and a leg on the shore? I never trusted mechanics on my cars and have done the work myself always, but carbs are a different world to me!
You may simply have a stretched cable, I don't know of any other adjustment in a GSX
I doubt you need to re-gap your plugs, usually they stay pretty uniform in a motor that isn't very high performance.
Carbs are a walk in the park if you have an owner's manual, just be pedantic and take your time.
I'd strip them, have the bodies ultrasonic cleaned (with the jets left in), re-assemble with floats and needles at standard height, check slides are smooth and chuck them on and balance them.
If you go this far, google how to make a manometer, makes balancing very, very easy :niceone:

[biketimus_prime]

If it works just fine ... why mention it in this thread .. ???
It's a 10 year old bike. They (clutches) don't last forever ... Do it while you can. Not when you NEED too ...
There are more broken bits when you DO need to ...
You'll have a look at the filter "NEXT TIME" ...??? You start a thread about your bikes issues ... and you say "You will have a look next time" ... so you are happy the way it is .... ???

Or something .. ?? :scratch: What is this something .. ???

Plugs don't last forever either ... replace them ... more good than bad to do so. :laugh:

If you think you know better ... in future ... DON'T ask ... :pinch:

I just mentioned that I wanted it to bite a bit differently. How long do clutches last? Way less than cars mileage?
I am happy with the way the engine is as it works just fine to get me from point A to B. Just doesn't work as well when I want to push it hard. By next time I mean on the weekend when I have time :) I'll do the plugs at least then and see how it goes. I meant "or something" as in they could be fouled from me leaving the bike idling while checking to see how the clutch feels and repeated stalling and starting up.
Bike is rideable and works well as it is though, just annoying issues!
Look, bottom line is I'm taking everyone's advice on board to help me try pinpoint the cause and I appreciate all the input!


You may simply have a stretched cable, I don't know of any other adjustment in a GSX
I doubt you need to re-gap your plugs, usually they stay pretty uniform in a motor that isn't very high performance.
Carbs are a walk in the park if you have an owner's manual, just be pedantic and take your time.
I'd strip them, have the bodies ultrasonic cleaned (with the jets left in), re-assemble with floats and needles at standard height, check slides are smooth and chuck them on and balance them.
If you go this far, google how to make a manometer, makes balancing very, very easy :niceone:

Alright perhaps it is a stretched cable but shouldn't the adjustments sort it? I have plenty of adjustability either direction still too.

I did look at some walkthroughs and it does seem easy to do carbs, just a lot of fiddly bits which I should not lose track of. Also looked at a manometer, one guy had a massive wooden plank haha, pretty awesome. This all could be a great learning experience I guess.
Do you reckon maybe if I sprayed some carb cleaner just into the inlets that might do the trick? Let the motor just burn it all out?

[Mike.Gayner]

Do you reckon maybe if I sprayed some carb cleaner just into the inlets that might do the trick? Let the motor just burn it all out?

The carbs need a proper clean - spraying cleaning in their general direction won't do a thing. They're really not difficult at all.

[jellywrestler]

I just mentioned that I wanted it to bite a bit differently. How long do clutches last? Way less than cars mileage?


the one in my suzuki 850 has done over 300000kms. you just got to treat them well

[FJRider]

the one in my suzuki 850 has done over 300000kms. you just got to treat them well

GSX250 clutches don't get treated well. Either .. learner "Issues" .. or wannabe Rossi "Issues" ... :blank:

[ducatilover]

Alright perhaps it is a stretched cable but shouldn't the adjustments sort it? I have plenty of adjustability either direction still too.

I did look at some walkthroughs and it does seem easy to do carbs, just a lot of fiddly bits which I should not lose track of. Also looked at a manometer, one guy had a massive wooden plank haha, pretty awesome. This all could be a great learning experience I guess.
Do you reckon maybe if I sprayed some carb cleaner just into the inlets that might do the trick? Let the motor just burn it all out?

Keep adjusting it, are you trying the clutch with it running after each adjustment?
You'll be sweet, buy hammers and crowbars, carbs are easy
Carb cleaner is shit

[FJRider]

Just doesn't work as well when I want to push it hard.




It's obviously had 10 years of being "Pushed Hard" (it is only a 250)... and the clutch is crying enough ... get over it and fix it.

Replace the plugs with new and re gap them correctly ... THEN ... change/CLEAN the air filter. You WILL notice the difference.

Check for inline fuel filters and replace them if there IS one.

Take the tank off ... take the fuel tap off ... and clean the dregs out of the tank.

Then ... see how it goes ...

If the problem still exists ... get a compression check done.

[biketimus_prime]

Alright chaps thanks for all your input. I will do a big service as soon as I can, will be a chance to get to know how it all works. It looks simple enough to pull everything apart and get to the motor too!

Yes I was adjusting the clutch bit by bit and getting on the bike and checking it.

Oh also the issue with revving seems to go away the warmer the bike gets. After like 10 mins of good riding, it is gone and revs well in all gears.

Also I rode with the choke on halfway from town to the shore... I think that may explain some of my bad fuel consumption... I also refuelled the other night and I think I filled it up way more this time than I did last time...

What a huge learning curve I have undergone these past few weeks hahaha


One last thing, indicators on right side flash faster than the left side. However both front and rear indicator works AND they both flash at the same fast speed. However sometimes they fill flash slightly slower but still faster than the left side. The rear indicator housing on the right has been taped together as the bike has been dropped on that side. Loose wiring maybe? Still weird that both indicators flash fast though...

[imdying]

Cables do not stretch.

Post a picture of the cover where the cable goes into.

[iranana]

In regards to your clutch - my thinking is that the friction plates are too far worn. Had the exact same problem with my bike - it wouldn't engage till the lever was pretty much all the way out, and no amount of adjustment would resolve it. Pulled the clutch apart, measured the plates and sure enough, they were past their wear limit. Replaced the friction and steel plates and bingo, it was like new again. Don't be tempted to adjust it so that it engages sooner - that's just a quick and dirty fix and it will cause your clutch to drag when you pull the lever in, as you won't be getting the full amount of travel.

Check that the push rod is straight while you're at it too. A bent push rod will make you clutch feel lumpy and it won't engage evenly. Also, check that the pivot hole on the lever hasn't worn oval. That alone will make your clutch harder to adjust (makes determining the correct amount of free play a bit tricky).

When assembling your clutch again, make sure you torque the screws on the pressure plate the correct amount. Over tightening them will make the clutch stiff and it's very easy to snap a bolt or shear the threads. I don't know about GSX clutches, but on mine there was a particular pattern to the orientation of the steel plates. They had a tang that had to be offset by 60 degrees as each plate was stacked, so pay attention to how yours is put together while you're taking it apart... Even better, get a service manual so you know the correct torque ratings for everything and you won't have to store everything to memory :yes:

[biketimus_prime]

Cables do not stretch.

Post a picture of the cover where the cable goes into.

It just goes into the top of the cover above my gear change pedal.


In regards to your clutch - my thinking is that the friction plates are too far worn. Had the exact same problem with my bike - it wouldn't engage till the lever was pretty much all the way out, and no amount of adjustment would resolve it. Pulled the clutch apart, measured the plates and sure enough, they were past their wear limit. Replaced the friction and steel plates and bingo, it was like new again. Don't be tempted to adjust it so that it engages sooner - that's just a quick and dirty fix and it will cause your clutch to drag when you pull the lever in, as you won't be getting the full amount of travel.

Check that the push rod is straight while you're at it too. A bent push rod will make you clutch feel lumpy and it won't engage evenly. Also, check that the pivot hole on the lever hasn't worn oval. That alone will make your clutch harder to adjust (makes determining the correct amount of free play a bit tricky).

When assembling your clutch again, make sure you torque the screws on the pressure plate the correct amount. Over tightening them will make the clutch stiff and it's very easy to snap a bolt or shear the threads. I don't know about GSX clutches, but on mine there was a particular pattern to the orientation of the steel plates. They had a tang that had to be offset by 60 degrees as each plate was stacked, so pay attention to how yours is put together while you're taking it apart... Even better, get a service manual so you know the correct torque ratings for everything and you won't have to store everything to memory :yes:

Yeah I am considering changing the clutch after what FJRider has said too. I'm handy with a spanner so I should be okay. Should be easier than a car clutch.

So that raises a couple of questions

1. Where can I buy a clutch kit? I assume suzuki like car dealerships charge a ton for parts like that. Any aftermarket places in Auckland?

2. I can't find a service manual anywhere! Was my bike called something else apart from 2004 suzuki GSX250 invader? Is it similar to the Suzuki GSX250 Across? They're the same year bikes too...
Anyone got a manual maybe? I'll pay money!

[ducatilover]

Oh also the issue with revving seems to go away the warmer the bike gets. After like 10 mins of good riding, it is gone and revs well in all gears.

Also I rode with the choke on halfway from town to the shore... I think that may explain some of my bad fuel consumption... I also refuelled the other night and I think I filled it up way more this time than I did last time...
Let it warm up before riding it then. My Bandit sucks balls when it's cold, stumbles all over the place, so I let it warm up for a few minutes. Same with my ZX6, I wait till it has 50deg on the gauge before riding it

[imdying]

It just goes into the top of the cover above my gear change pedal.That's all it looks like to you because you don't know what you're looking at. Good luck.

[biketimus_prime]

Let it warm up before riding it then. My Bandit sucks balls when it's cold, stumbles all over the place, so I let it warm up for a few minutes. Same with my ZX6, I wait till it has 50deg on the gauge before riding it

Yeah I think it was warm-up issues. It went so well in the countryside today. Still wont hurt to strip and clean carbs and stuff though, looks like it hasn't been touched ever!


That's all it looks like to you because you don't know what you're looking at. Good luck.

Seriously, there's nothing there except that cable going into the gearbox.

Here is a side view I got from google, you can see the black cable going in just behind the fairing

295482

[imdying]

Well I'm not sure what I'm supposed to get out of that picture... is it too fucking hard to take a picture of the side cover? Is it the same as this one?

<img src="http://justfairings.co.nz/files/cache/4e0af6fa3a5dac3ab8c005948c655133.JPG" />

[biketimus_prime]

Well I'm not sure what I'm supposed to get out of that picture... is it too fucking hard to take a picture of the side cover? Is it the same as this one?

<img src="http://justfairings.co.nz/files/cache/4e0af6fa3a5dac3ab8c005948c655133.JPG" />

Sorry I was just too lazy both times to go to the garage and get a pic. Yep that's the one

[imdying]

Ok, see under that black plastic cap, on most Suzukis that is where the only critical clutch cable adjustment is. The rest are merely there for taking up slack in the cable. Go pop it off with a flat head screwdriver or a nail file of whatever, and take a piccy of it.

In theory, you will find a lock nut with a flat head screw up the middle of it. If you've got that sort of setup, I'll tell you set the leverage on that lever that converts the cables back and forth motion into the pushing motion that works on the clutches pressure plate.

Regardless of whether this works or not, you will need this to correctly set your clutch up after replacing it. I guess you could consider this the 'hidden adjustment' you mentioned earlier. I'm a bit disgusted that these guys haven't been through this with you, it's the only critical one out of the three adjustment points. Bit of luck it'll save you some money/effort, if not at least you'll know more about adjusting a clutch than this bunch of muppets.

[biketimus_prime]

Ok, see under that black plastic cap, on most Suzukis that is where the only critical clutch cable adjustment is. The rest are merely there for taking up slack in the cable. Go pop it off with a flat head screwdriver or a nail file of whatever, and take a piccy of it.

In theory, you will find a lock nut with a flat head screw up the middle of it. If you've got that sort of setup, I'll tell you set the leverage on that lever that converts the cables back and forth motion into the pushing motion that works on the clutches pressure plate.

Regardless of whether this works or not, you will need this to correctly set your clutch up after replacing it. I guess you could consider this the 'hidden adjustment' you mentioned earlier. I'm a bit disgusted that these guys haven't been through this with you, it's the only critical one out of the three adjustment points. Bit of luck it'll save you some money/effort, if not at least you'll know more about adjusting a clutch than this bunch of muppets.

Oh cool! I never noticed it was a rubber bit. I went and had a look just now and it is there for sure. I will have a look this weekend and take a pic to show what is underneath it, too dark in the garage at the moment.
Everyone has been really helpful, I guess they just don't know that adjustment exists, for my bike and a few others at least. There seems to be hardly any information about this bike, it's really annoying.

Thank you so much for your advice though. Sorry I was too lazy to take a picture at first...

[ducatilover]

Hah, I should have realised it has the same setup as my Bandit :facepalm:

[biketimus_prime]

Sure enough, here's what is behind that plastic cap

Let the games begin!

295615

[imdying]

Sweet man, the rest is very easy. Once you've done this, you'll know whether your clutch is gone or not, and how to set it up correctly should you have to replace the clutch.

1) Wind the outer cable adjuster into the cover, most of the way in. You are looking to make sure the inner has no pressure on it.

2) Next wind the adjuster at the clutch perch (the lever and mount on the left hand bar) all the way in.

The adjuster at the cover is your main free play adjuster, the one at the perch is the convenient fine adjustment. Neither of these affect the way your clutch operates (unless the system is so badly adjusted as to let them preload the clutch push rod), all they do is adjust the free play in the cable.

The entire adjustment of the clutch is that lever inside the cover; that translates the movement back/forward of the cable into in/out for the push rod. If you remove that cover, you will see that lever. If you look at the two raised portions either side of the rubber cap, those are where the two bolts are on the inside that retain the lever to the cover, should you have any desire to remove it and clean/grease it (you should, but keep that for another day).

It looks sorta like this:
<img src="http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/DSC01025Small.jpg" />

3) Hold the adjustment screw with a flat head screwdriver

4) Loosen (counter clockwise) the lock nut, whilst holding the screw from turning. Loosen it about a quarter turn.

5) Now, wind the adjustment screw in till it bottoms out. If it does not obviously bottom out, perhaps it was over adjusted (from your symptoms, it sounds like it is under adjusted), so back it out until it stops holding the push rod, which will probably feel like it starts to turn easier.

6) Once you have determined the point where the adjustment screw has just bottomed, back it off maybe an eighth of a turn. Now while you hold the screw at that point, tighten the lock nut. Once you figure out how it all works, you'll find your own happy place for how much slack to give it here, you just want that clearance.

If you could feel inside the cover at this point, you'd feel that lever that the clutch cable is on, can now jiggle a couple of mm. That is important, because if you over adjust the screw, it will bind up on the push rod, which means you're effectively riding your clutch all the time. It holds the pressure plate off slightly, which gives less clamp load, which means your bike may start slipping the clutch burning it out in short order.

Your symptoms suggest that you can't get sufficient adjustment, which means the push rod might not be getting sufficient travel, and what we're hoping is that's because nobody has adjusted this free play to compensate for the wear of the clutch... left alone long enough, you'll end up where you are. What's actually happening inside is that you need to bind up the cable's free play adjustment to wind the lever inside the sprocket cover, to make it take up the slack left by the adjustment screw not being wound in to just before it bottoms out (on the push rod). Probably the worst part about this is the absolute crap feel you get at the lever :(

7) Next you need to wind out the adjuster on the sprocket cover till you have nearly the right free play at the lever. The right free play at the lever is when if you tug on the outer cable at the perch adjuster, it pulls a few mm (so well inside the adjuster still) and then meets resistance.

At this point, you could probably just wind out the perch adjuster and call it a day. If you like to tinker, you'll find that means you probably get about half way or further through the perch adjustment. You can trade cover for perch adjustment as you please. Just remember to wind the perch adjuster all the way in before you alter the sprocket cover, and make sure that free play in the outer is there. Always have the free play; once your adjustment screw is set correctly, you can't ride up on the cable adjusters - there is no need in any case... it accomplishes nothing... it physically can't give more travel than proper adjustment, so you are already getting maximum leverage and travel. Go hard.

[biketimus_prime]

Hey Imdying,

It worked a treat and everything happened exactly as you said it would. The clutch lever feels so much better now! I had to turn the flat head screw almost 2 turns to feel any resistance. I've got a decent amount of free play now too. It all works great. Thank you for taking the time to walk me through it and write all that up. I really appreciate it, you're a legend :wings:

[imdying]

You sound like you're new to this/young, which probably means you don't have money to waste. Been there, you're more than welcome.

[biketimus_prime]

Did an oil change last night and the RPM at 100kph has now dropped from around 8500 to just a smidge over 8000, engine revs a lot smoother and gears change and engage so much more easier. The oil was Motul 10w-40 5100 with 7000km that I removed and put in Castrol Power GPS 1. What a difference! Must be so much more noticeable because it's a smaller engine?

[imdying]

That is impossible. The gearing between the crankshaft (RPM), the gearbox (all fixed teeth) and the chain and sprockets (also a fixed ratio) and the rear wheel, is constant.

Noticing a change of oil is pretty bad news, a sign of neglect even. Never should the oil become so rooted that you can notice an oil change. Now it's your bike, make sure you look after it, because you can safely assume the last guy did not.

Beware the placebo effect, it is very very powerful.

[biketimus_prime]

That is impossible. The gearing between the crankshaft (RPM), the gearbox (all fixed teeth) and the chain and sprockets (also a fixed ratio) and the rear wheel, is constant.

Noticing a change of oil is pretty bad news, a sign of neglect even. Never should the oil become so rooted that you can notice an oil change. Now it's your bike, make sure you look after it, because you can safely assume the last guy did not.

Beware the placebo effect, it is very very powerful.

I was wondering how the hell that could happen with all the drivetrain being constant, do you reckon my tachometer is out then? Because honestly when I first got the bike it was doing 9000 RPM at 100kph and now, just a bit over 8000. Only thing I can think of is maybe is that the clutch was slipping or something due to the old oil. The service with motul oil and new filter was done by motorcycle doctors around 7000km ago.

[imdying]

Nah, it's probably all in your mind. Or your tyre is going flat :laugh:

I wouldn't worry about it, stress will only kill you. Just keep changing the oil and eyeing up trademe.

[biketimus_prime]

Nah, it's probably all in your mind. Or your tyre is going flat :laugh:

I wouldn't worry about it, stress will only kill you. Just keep changing the oil and eyeing up trademe.

Haha no worries then I'll just enjoy the ride :)

[sharp2183]

Initial KB antics aside, this must be one of the better threads on here. Really informative for someone asking for help

Speedo variance is possible but as imdying says, very unlikely. Where is the speedo pickup? Front wheel or on the front sprocket? Changed your tyres lately? Changed sprockets? But most likely in your head.

[FJRider]

I was wondering how the hell that could happen with all the drivetrain being constant, do you reckon my tachometer is out then? Because honestly when I first got the bike it was doing 9000 RPM at 100kph and now, just a bit over 8000. Only thing I can think of is maybe is that the clutch was slipping or something due to the old oil. The service with motul oil and new filter was done by motorcycle doctors around 7000km ago.

Maybe ... your speedo is not (never was .. ??) accurate.

and ...

Can you guarantee the accuracy of your rev counter .... ??? Is it cable driven or electronic .... ??

You seem to put a great deal of (unwarranted .. ??) faith in both being accurate.

[biketimus_prime]

Initial KB antics aside, this must be one of the better threads on here. Really informative for someone asking for help

Speedo variance is possible but as imdying says, very unlikely. Where is the speedo pickup? Front wheel or on the front sprocket? Changed your tyres lately? Changed sprockets? But most likely in your head.

I'm not sure where the speedo pickup is. I'll have a look around and see if I can find it. Haven't changed sprockets and as far as I know it's all as it was from factory.


Maybe ... your speedo is not (never was .. ??) accurate.

and ...

Can you guarantee the accuracy of your rev counter .... ??? Is it cable driven or electronic .... ??

You seem to put a great deal of (unwarranted .. ??) faith in both being accurate.

Yeah I think I am putting too much faith in the speedo and tacho. Silly old pieces of equipment! Even my car's tacho used to bounce around every now and then.

[ducatilover]

You're imagining it bro

[biketimus_prime]

I've gone insane :brick:

[ducatilover]

Good. Now start modifying it :bleh: then you'll be screwed.

[biketimus_prime]

Haha I won't modify this little 250. I want an R1 or R6 one day, but I suppose most people who start riding will say that.
Also my speedo sensor goes off the front wheel :)

Having an intermittent issue with the headlights. Bulb goes on and off and seems to be when I wiggle the wires. Mo' riding mo' problems

[biketimus_prime]

Maaaan WTF both filaments on both headlight bulbs are fine but they won't power up for low beam either side unless I give them a small tap, one looks like it's gonna light up but then stops (It goes a bit red then dies out.).
The other, if I put it back in it's housing will turn off unless I wiggle it around, it'll stay on for a bit then die out.
If I flip around the contacts the high beam filament lights up just fine. This is the case for both bulb holders, both sides of the bike. Same deal with high beam switch turned on, the low beam filament won't light up (if I flip the contacts) but the high beam does.

Traced all the wires everywhere etc and it appears to be all fine, both contacts to the bulb holder give the right voltages for each contact when tested with the multimeter. So I'm putting it down to a low beam filament issue, gonna buy some new ones and see what happens.

On the left side, the small position bulb had a loose contact, the earth wire contact had come loose. When I put the headlight bulb holder in place, the small bulb would come on but not otherwise (earthing through the housing instead of wire?). Sorted that and the bulb works with the holder taken out.

I reckon this stuff happens mainly because of vibrations around the front area?

[FJRider]

... I reckon this stuff happens mainly because of vibrations around the front area?

It's a 10 year old bike ... and probably a 10 year old headlight bulb. They don't last forever ... :lol:

[biketimus_prime]

Seen a guide to convert these current housings to H4, that'd be a cool project!

[ducatilover]

I've converted the GN lights I have (on a GN and one on my ZX6) to run h4s, was easy as and well worth it
I'd say you've just got shit on the terminals on the headlight plug, or they're a wee bit loose.

[biketimus_prime]

Hey chaps where can I get a CHEAP front brake light switch in auckland? They must be quite common right?

This one:
297226
297227

While we're at it, where do you all go for your spare parts in Auckland that isn't a dealer like colemans suzuki. Somewhere I could maybe drop by like for cars, dodsons or pick-a-part.

Thanks in advance

EDIT: managed to sort it, fix here if anyone else encounters it: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/167010-Cleaned-out-corrosion-on-brake-light-switch-works-prefectly-now?p=1130722807#post1130722807

[biketimus_prime]

Can someone tell me the torque for the nut on the rear axle after I adjust my chain?
I did some reading around the internet last time and general consensus for most rear nuts was around 72 lb-ft but I can't remember and can't find the pages I looked at now. Any suggestions?