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BM-GS
18th April 2014, 18:31
I thought I'd bought a bike, but I seem to have bought a project!

Took it for a spin last weekend and found the rapid-sofa feeling that a decent KDX engenders was replaced by the feeling that my kidneys were being battered up into my ears. I took the long weekend as a chance to sort this out. Linkage-bearing kit safely on the bench, I started taking things apart. Linkage came straight to bits, but I was suspicious of the swingarm staying put, despite the fact it was only held up by the pivot bolt. Much pushing & pulling suggested I'd bought the wrong bearing kit, but the anal-retentive in me sees this as an opportunity to sort the back-end properly - once the shops open!

Mr Google suggests that this is not uncommon, and I suspect I'll be leaving the rubber cap off the nut-end of the pivot bolt after this is over. I can see that it could end badly, but I am putting my trust in 3-in-1 and time. Don't want to end up breaking out the grinder like this guy: http://www.kxriders.com/forums/index.php?topic=11921.0

Now I'm seriously wondering what's under the silicone sealer up inside the bottom-adjusters of the front forks and whether it may be better not to find out?

barty5
19th April 2014, 09:17
If its the main swing arm bolt that wo t come out it will have rust to the sleeves that run through the bearings. It come down to brut froce youll have to use the Jeremy clarkson set of tools large hammer and some sort of driver then clean up thread afterwards. If its hoolw like some you could try getting some heat down it first.

BM-GS
19th April 2014, 11:39
Bolt is solid, not hollow. Not sure what's keeping the damned thing in just now, but prefer to use Father Time rather than Jeremy Clarkson. (I note that the money he spends on the cars he batters is not his own!)

Obviously I shall give the end of the bolt a tap now and again to remind it that it's coming out one way or another!

barty5
19th April 2014, 11:52
Bolt is solid, not hollow. Not sure what's keeping the damned thing in just now, but prefer to use Father Time rather than Jeremy Clarkson. (I note that the money he spends on the cars he batters is not his own!)

Obviously I shall give the end of the bolt a tap now and again to remind it that it's coming out one way or another!

Can you get it to turn although odds are it will spin in the bearings. Another thought put it on its side and fillthe recess with crc etc might help soak throug.

BM-GS
19th April 2014, 16:23
Yep, it turns, though not easily. You can feel it tighter in some places than others. Will contemplate the bike-on-its-side idea, but the garage is in constant use, might need to chuck some stuff outside, if I can trust it not to blow away!

Might try tearing the old seals out to help the 3-in-1 do its thing, though reluctant to try that in cease I bugger up the surface for the new seals. I guess that's why they invented sandpaper?

barty5
20th April 2014, 08:46
Yep, it turns, though not easily. You can feel it tighter in some places than others. Will contemplate the bike-on-its-side idea, but the garage is in constant use, might need to chuck some stuff outside, if I can trust it not to blow away!

Might try tearing the old seals out to help the 3-in-1 do its thing, though reluctant to try that in cease I bugger up the surface for the new seals. I guess that's why they invented sandpaper?

That and wet and dry you should have seen the last 2 bikes ive just done up the heads where the vakve bucket slide into had some bad marks due to bent valves ( one even managed to snap a valve shim in half ) small file and wet and dry almost back to new.

Jay GTI
20th April 2014, 09:23
Don't mess around with CRC or 3 in 1, use this:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/blaster003%20023.jpg

One of the rare products that witters on endlessly about being the best on the market, but actually is. Used it to free my stuck rear axle bolt (BFH and brute force was not working!).

You can get it from Smart Marine on Beaumont Street in town (funnily enough the boaties love it).

If that doesn't work, extreme case is taking the engine out, forks and wheels off, then down to an engineering shop to press out the bolt. Although I have seen even this method not work (frame was bending) and in the end the swingarm was cut off and a replacement brought in from the US.

scott411
20th April 2014, 11:47
Don't mess around with CRC or 3 in 1, use this:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/blaster003%20023.jpg

One of the rare products that witters on endlessly about being the best on the market, but actually is. Used it to free my stuck rear axle bolt (BFH and brute force was not working!).

You can get it from Smart Marine on Beaumont Street in town (funnily enough the boaties love it).

If that doesn't work, extreme case is taking the engine out, forks and wheels off, then down to an engineering shop to press out the bolt. Although I have seen even this method not work (frame was bending) and in the end the swingarm was cut off and a replacement brought in from the US.

me and a friends did this, we left the engine in, but subframe off to get it into the press,

barty5
20th April 2014, 13:33
Don't mess around with CRC or 3 in 1, use this:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/blaster003%20023.jpg

One of the rare products that witters on endlessly about being the best on the market, but actually is. Used it to free my stuck rear axle bolt (BFH and brute force was not working!).

You can get it from Smart Marine on Beaumont Street in town (funnily enough the boaties love it).

If that doesn't work, extreme case is taking the engine out, forks and wheels off, then down to an engineering shop to press out the bolt. Although I have seen even this method not work (frame was bending) and in the end the swingarm was cut off and a replacement brought in from the US.

There are a few versions of this stuff and yup it works repco and the like use to have it as well.

Jay GTI
20th April 2014, 14:59
me and a friends did this, we left the engine in, but subframe off to get it into the press,

Yeah actually engine in would help support the frame, we took it out just to make it easier to move around.

BM-GS
20th April 2014, 18:52
Engine staying in: swingarm bolt goes through the back of the cases...

Will search for this stuff in Supercheap tomorrow, handily located next door to job. Popping in for a few bits anyway.

ktm84mxc
20th April 2014, 22:43
You can use a gas torch to heat the swing arm around the bearings and a heavy sledge hammer to free the bolt , just be sure to support the frame when your belting it with the hammer.

jasonu
21st April 2014, 05:20
Don't mess around with CRC or 3 in 1, use this:

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/blaster003%20023.jpg

One of the rare products that witters on endlessly about being the best on the market, but actually is. Used it to free my stuck rear axle bolt (BFH and brute force was not working!).

You can get it from Smart Marine on Beaumont Street in town (funnily enough the boaties love it).

If that doesn't work, extreme case is taking the engine out, forks and wheels off, then down to an engineering shop to press out the bolt. Although I have seen even this method not work (frame was bending) and in the end the swingarm was cut off and a replacement brought in from the US.

Yes this is good stuff.
My bet is your needle roller bearings are dried up and rooted. I have had this issue on 2 bikes. Had to beat the swingarm bolt out with a big hammer and drift. Both times the bearings just fell apart when the bolt finally came out..

Jay GTI
21st April 2014, 09:40
Engine staying in: swingarm bolt goes through the back of the cases...

Will search for this stuff in Supercheap tomorrow, handily located next door to job. Popping in for a few bits anyway.

You won't find PB Blaster in Super cheap, just get Clare to grab some tomorrow.

drift77nz
21st April 2014, 10:54
This is how we get the seized swingarm bolts out of countless DR200's. It is very hard to get heat into the sleeve that is usually the culprit for the seized bolt. If time is on your side, soak the crap out of it with penetrating oil ( PB, CRC 556, WD40 etc etc.),and keep doing it for however long.
Then lie the bike on its side on a decent piece of pipe down, A; to support the frame an to stop spreading the frame and B; for the swingarm bolt to go into. Then get a large Hammer and a decent punch and try to knock it out. And a suggestion, use a pair of vice grips to hold the punch. I've hit my hand to many times to care about and it hurts the ego just as much as your hand cause you usually have someone helping you that won't let you live it down. Even better, get them to hold the punch...:pinch:
We have had them bad enough that we have had to cut them out, but you will need another swingarm by the time you get to that measure.
Good Luck:2thumbsup

Jay GTI
22nd April 2014, 10:26
So as Clare is popping to Smart Marine today, here's the instructions I found off the internet when researching stuck axle bolts, which worked for me.

Apply liberally to the bolt (both sides if possible) and smack with drift and hammer a couple of times afterwards, on both sides. This is to try and get the fluid into the bolt surface where it's stuck, so don't worry if it's not moving at first, it should free up over time. Do this twice a day, morning then again in the evening.

Repeat this process over 5 or so days, but don't try and remove the bolt until it's moving reasonably easily, the idea is to get as much of the fluid into the bolt to bearing surface as possible by moving the bolt backwards and forwards. It should become easier each day, but you ideally want to be able to start to move the bolt backwards and forwards a few mm, with a quick squirt before moving it in each direction. Once you're able to move it a cm or so each way, without too much force with the hammer, it should be ready to come out.

It's a slow process, but this gives the fluid time to do it's thing and reduces the risk of damage.

BM-GS
22nd April 2014, 16:10
.....It's a slow process, but this gives the fluid time to do it's thing and reduces the risk of damage.

I'm all for that! Cheers Jay.

BM-GS
27th April 2014, 17:30
OK, so after a week of careful & copious soaking with various potions, the pivot bolt's still stuck in there. Cautious use of the Larger Hammer has not produced any discernable movement.

On the plus side, the swingarm is swinging sweetly now! No play or anything. Does that count as "almost fixed"?

Another few days and I may use less caution.

Stylo
27th April 2014, 18:27
OK, so after a week of careful & copious soaking with various potions, the pivot bolt's still stuck in there. Cautious use of the Larger Hammer has not produced any discernable movement.

On the plus side, the swingarm is swinging sweetly now! No play or anything. Does that count as "almost fixed"?

Another few days and I may use less caution.

How old is the bike and any pics you can flick through ?

BM-GS
27th April 2014, 19:27
Bike is an '06, no pics that would show anything interesting, just the front half of a KDX that refuses to fully separate from its rear... The larger bits from the airbox back came off easily enough, just the back brake, chain & arm left. Also the linkage rocker, as that was a PITA to get to with the swingarm on. Chain was a bit reluctant as well, but removal isn't essential.

Turning the pivot bolt also turns the bolt-head end seal/bush thingy just visible between the frame and swingarm. Can't stretch my neck enough to see what the bits at the other end are doing.

I do wonder what that Blaster stuff is doing to the O rings on the chain though.

Jay GTI
28th April 2014, 20:03
I was wondering how you were getting on. I only hope the BFH and a bit more anger does something, otherwise it's engineering press time and as mentioned before, that doesn't always work...

PB and rubber are not good friends.

BM-GS
13th May 2014, 20:31
Happy Ending!!

Pivot bolt out and new bearings in everywhere. Lots of grease in there now, too.

Anyone know the torque spec for a KDX200H pivot bolt? My 200E manual says 58lbft/78Nm, which is probably close.

Whew...

Ocean1
13th May 2014, 20:42
Anyone know the torque spec for a KDX200H pivot bolt?

Aye. Tighten it until it strips and then back it off a quarter turn.

scott411
14th May 2014, 07:56
Happy Ending!!

Pivot bolt out and new bearings in everywhere. Lots of grease in there now, too.

Anyone know the torque spec for a KDX200H pivot bolt? My 200E manual says 58lbft/78Nm, which is probably close.

Whew...

88N-m 65 ft-lb

BM-GS
14th May 2014, 20:43
88N-m 65 ft-lb

Thank you Scott.

Jay GTI
15th May 2014, 13:35
Awesome! Spectrum know what they're doing and as most people don't grease linkages and axle/swingarm bolts, I'm sure they've done a few too.

BM-GS
15th May 2014, 15:52
A came bit easier than some, but still a bit of swearing required to get it out.