Two strokes and quick shifters?

[sharp2183]

Any of you (rare) two stroke racers use quick shifters on your NSR/RGV/RS race bikes?

I'm looking into the pros and cons of this for my 250. I absolutely love the translogic one I have on the 600, and would be interested if similar results could be had from the two stroke engines.

[malcy25]

Given that the last of the 250 GP bikes were using the for a number of years and you can buy complete ign systems which allow the wiring in, yes.

But like anything, the magpie (or varmint) theory applies. This being magpies and varmints are attracted to shiny things! Just fitting a shiny new thing does not necessarily herald wonderous results, and in fact can be a retrograde step compared to what you have replaced.

The secret like anything is in how it is fitted and how good you are at tuning it.

[sharp2183]

Given that the last of the 250 GP bikes were using the for a number of years and you can buy complete ign systems which allow the wiring in, yes.

But like anything, the magpie (or varmint) theory applies. This being magpies and varmints are attracted to shiny things! Just fitting a shiny new thing does not necessarily herald wonderous results, and in fact can be a retrograde step compared to what you have replaced.

The secret like anything is in how it is fitted and how good you are at tuning it.

Oh yes, I understand the theory of that! But still useful to know so that I can make an educated decision when the time comes.

Generally anything to make the bike more efficient with its (compared to a 600/1000) limited power is a positive for me. I'm particularly interested in the benefits it might give when changing gear while leant over (limited power band and all that).

[steveyb]

The Battle Factory Battleshifter is specifically designed for 125 and 250 2-stroke GP bikes.
They have worked great on all the GP bikes I have had them on (Honda RS125 NX4, Honda RS250 NX5 and NF5 and Yam TZ250B).
Check out specs etc on www.rscycles.com

[quallman1234]

They are awesome!

Only really a couple of cons. The sensors do fail after years. And if you hit it at the wrong time it can mean splat. But you get used to it within a session or two.

I know of a cheap NZ Made one being available soon.

[chrisc]

The Battle Factory Battleshifter is specifically designed for 125 and 250 2-stroke GP bikes.
They have worked great on all the GP bikes I have had them on (Honda RS125 NX4, Honda RS250 NX5 and NF5 and Yam TZ250B).
Check out specs etc on www.rscycles.com

Link for lazys

Electronic shifters
http://www.rscycles.com/category_s/406.htm

http://www.sp125racing.com/rs125-honda-quickshifters.html

Fitting instructions
http://www.sp125racing.com/battle-shifter-fitting-instructions.html

[sharp2183]

They are awesome!

Only really a couple of cons. The sensors do fail after years. And if you hit it at the wrong time it can mean splat. But you get used to it within a session or two.

I know of a cheap NZ Made one being available soon.

Do tell of this cheap option...

Yep love it on the big bike so wouldn't have trouble adapting. The battle shifter options look good, at a reasonable price too.

[Asher]

Zeeltronic make one to go with their programmable ignition.
http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/store/index.php?cPath=21_125

[Drew]

The Battle Factory Battleshifter is specifically designed for 125 and 250 2-stroke GP bikes.
They have worked great on all the GP bikes I have had them on (Honda RS125 NX4, Honda RS250 NX5 and NF5 and Yam TZ250B).
Check out specs etc on www.rscycles.com (http://www.rscycles.com)

Betcha Sketchy has mixed feelings about the one he got spastic on.:laugh:

[steveyb]

Betcha Sketchy has mixed feelings about the one he got spastic on.:laugh:

No idea, but not so many people understand how the switch actually works (not implying he doesn't).
It is a marvel of minimalist engineering and micromaterials technology (certainly given that the design is many years old now). If you must know, it uses nano-metallised silicone in the switch. No pressure = no circuit, squeeze it = circuit as the metal particles in the rubber move and contact one another.

Battle Factory were also one of the first to understand that cutting power to the ECU was a bit shit, so instead route the low tension current through the shifter ECU and lower the voltage to the coil for predetermined time.
This time is easily changed.
Sensitivity at the switch is also tuneable to a certain degree.
The only real issues I've had with this device is making sure that oil does not get into the switch. This will insulate the switch causing it to not work.
If one dismantles the switch it can be tough to get it back together unless significant care is taken.
Also, it is possible to reconfigure the switches between GP and Road shift (push, pull) without buying new switches.

[Drew]

Was just thinking about the time he tapped it by mistake in splash and broke his arm.

[F5 Dave]

I use a proximity switch, fortunately the Ignitechs can use them directly, no other cctry needed & do their stuff internally & you can adjust delay & ignore time (so you don't keep it turned on) with a PC.

They are virtually free by comparrison, sealed, and easy to mount pointing at the lingage on the engine. Just need some steel to move into its path, like a bolt. they have a LED on the back so you can test the 'on' position easily. As the Ignitech drive PVs directly too it makes the whole setup cheaper than multiple box arrangements. (edit, whole set up cheaper than a battleshifter)

[RDjase]

No idea, but not so many people understand how the switch actually works (not implying he doesn't).
It is a marvel of minimalist engineering and micromaterials technology (certainly given that the design is many years old now). If you must know, it uses nano-metallised silicone in the switch. No pressure = no circuit, squeeze it = circuit as the metal particles in the rubber move and contact one another.

Battle Factory were also one of the first to understand that cutting power to the ECU was a bit shit, so instead route the low tension current through the shifter ECU and lower the voltage to the coil for predetermined time.
This time is easily changed.
Sensitivity at the switch is also tuneable to a certain degree.
The only real issues I've had with this device is making sure that oil does not get into the switch. This will insulate the switch causing it to not work.
If one dismantles the switch it can be tough to get it back together unless significant care is taken.
Also, it is possible to reconfigure the switches between GP and Road shift (push, pull) without buying new switches.

Never thought about how they worked Steve, I do know that Tylers switch failed at Taupo nats. has done two seasons and was on the bike originaly so had done a lot of work. The battle shifter works well, hadn't given any issues till Taupo

[steveyb]

Was just thinking about the time he tapped it by mistake in splash and broke his arm.

Ah yes, on my RS250 and all.
User error then....

[steveyb]

Never thought about how they worked Steve, I do know that Tylers switch failed at Taupo nats. has done two seasons and was on the bike originaly so had done a lot of work. The battle shifter works well, hadn't given any issues till Taupo

Replacement switches are available and not so expensive.
Check out the RSCycles website for prices.
Better than buying a whole new one.
But depends on what has failed.
I have successfully repaired ones where the very fine braided wire has broken, but if the metallised rubber gets split or the rubber sleeve the wires sit in gets split then there is no repair other than replacement. I doubt very much that Battle will supply just those parts.
Could just be a broken or loose wire perhaps?
Check function of the switch by placing an Ohm meter across the plug and activating the switch. It should read 1 prior to activation and then jump down to some smallish number before going back to 1 as you let off the switch pressure. If 0 prior to activation then there is a short in the switch, if no change then there is no circuit being made.

[RDjase]

Replacement switches are available and not so expensive.
Check out the RSCycles website for prices.
Better than buying a whole new one.
But depends on what has failed.
I have successfully repaired ones where the very fine braided wire has broken, but if the metallised rubber gets split or the rubber sleeve the wires sit in gets split then there is no repair other than replacement. I doubt very much that Battle will supply just those parts.
Could just be a broken or loose wire perhaps?
Check function of the switch by placing an Ohm meter across the plug and activating the switch. It should read 1 prior to activation and then jump down to some smallish number before going back to 1 as you let off the switch pressure. If 0 prior to activation then there is a short in the switch, if no change then there is no circuit being made.

The rubber is split, the engine was missing and killing the ignition randomly

The RS and gear got unloaded out of the van after Manfeild and hasn't been touched since

Hows the progress on the IMD?

[avgas]

I don't really feel the need for one.....yet
Motorbike is so much better than standard H. Foot is near, and changing is up or down.

The same reason why I prefer sticks on DSG rather than paddles. My limb is usually as accessible to stick rather than finding paddles.

Where I could see the advantage is in the opposite, cut out on slightest movement of shifter (like antilag on an older "stick" rally car). So if my foot moves the shifter 1mm I get a cut out.

[Kevin G]

Replacement switches are available and not so expensive.
Check out the RSCycles website for prices.
Better than buying a whole new one.
But depends on what has failed.
I have successfully repaired ones where the very fine braided wire has broken, but if the metallised rubber gets split or the rubber sleeve the wires sit in gets split then there is no repair other than replacement. I doubt very much that Battle will supply just those parts.
Could just be a broken or loose wire perhaps?
Check function of the switch by placing an Ohm meter across the plug and activating the switch. It should read 1 prior to activation and then jump down to some smallish number before going back to 1 as you let off the switch pressure. If 0 prior to activation then there is a short in the switch, if no change then there is no circuit being made.

I have new switches for the battle shifter in stock.

[Robert Taylor]

Theres an extra bonus in having a quickshifter on a two stroke, it will keep the expansion chamber temperature more consistent and that aids performance