Pirelli Diablo or Michelin Pilot Road?

[Smiff-ta]

Hi Guys n Gals.

Just after some different opinions.

I need to replace the tyres on my SV1000 soon. I am currently running Pirelli Diablos front and rear.

Im considering changing to Michelin Pilot Roads front and rear, are they any better from your experience?

Thanks James

[Gremlin]

Usual caveat. Tyres are subjective, what one person will love, another will hate.

Pirelli Diablo is a range, Strada was the touring tyre, for example, so not sure what you were using.

I like the Pilot Road range, currently normal sizing is 3 and 4 (could be odd ones from 1 and 2 sitting on the shelf). 3 has soft carcass, so not everyone was happy with performance (like running 2 up). Option is either using the GT version (for heavier bikes) or using something like the Metzeler Z8.

[p.dath]

Hi Guys n Gals.

Just after some different opinions.

I need to replace the tyres on my SV1000 soon. I am currently running Pirelli Diablos front and rear.

Im considering changing to Michelin Pilot Roads front and rear, are they any better from your experience?

Thanks James

There are Michelin Pilot Roads (PR3), and Michelin Pilot Power's (PP3). PR3's are not recommend, by Michelin, on sports bikes with 1000cc or more. They are not designed for the power output.

PP3's (let me repeat - Pilot Power 3) is designed for high power bikes. You can also confirm this using the Michelin motorcycle tyre selector for you bike.
http://moto.michelin.com/moto/SUZUKI-SV-1000-S-2003-2007

[BoristheBiter]

Usual caveat. Tyres are subjective, what one person will love, another will hate.

.

Yep, I hate Michelin, won't have then anywhere near the bike and I prefer Dunlop.

Also how long does he want them to last, how much does he want to spend?

[AllanB]

Don't take this the wrong way the SV1000 is not a high performance bike now days - (same type of power as my Hornet 900) the Pilot Road 2 or 3 will be absolutely fine - many run them. Modern sport-touring tyres are sticky on the edges and have harder centers to reduce squaring off and thus give better mileage.

Also consider Conti Road Attack 2, Bridgestone T30 - Ive run all three on my Hornet (T30's presently) and they are all very good tyres and will suit the SV1000, stick well and give you decent kms.

[nzspokes]

Yep, I hate Michelin, won't have then anywhere near the bike and I prefer Dunlop.

Also how long does he want them to last, how much does he want to spend?

Funny, I want to move away from the PR series as ive always felt they are a hard sidewall tyre. Everything ive read on Dunlops on my model bike is good. They will probably be my next tyre.

[nzspokes]

Don't take this the wrong way the SV1000 is not a high performance bike now days - (same type of power as my Hornet 900) the Pilot Road 2 or 3 will be absolutely fine - many run them. Modern sport-touring tyres are sticky on the edges and have harder centers to reduce squaring off and thus give better mileage.

Also consider Conti Road Attack 2, Bridgestone T30 - Ive run all three on my Hornet (T30's presently) and they are all very good tyres and will suit the SV1000, stick well and give you decent kms.

Have you ridden a SV1k? It has much more low down torque over the Hornet which is what eats tyres.

[Gremlin]

Have you ridden a SV1k? It has much more low down torque over the Hornet which is what eats tyres.
Yeeeeaaaah, actually no.

CB919:
<img src=http://www.motorcycle.com/gallery/gallery.php/d/12569-1/919dyno.jpg>

SV1000:
<img src=http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/attachments/new-riders/200635d1278517423-can-someone-explain-torque-dif-between-sv650s-r6s-sv1000-dyno.jpg>

The best graphs I seemed able to find. Bearing in mind different dynos can give big differences, and ignoring that, they're actually pretty close all the way through, only 5 ft-lbs difference through the rev range.

However, the SV is a twin and the CB919 is an inline 4. That alone does mean a difference in delivery and tyre torture.

[mulletman]

Ive happily got Pilot Power 3s on my SV , ridden in pissing down westcoast rain with no probs what so ever , i originally thought these would be great 'summer only' tyres but would not hesitate to use all year round. Normaly i would use Pilot Road 3s for winter.
Have around 9000Kms on my current PP3s.

Pilot Road 4s look like a mix of PP3 & PR3 (tread anyway) will try them next just to see , otherwise
PP3.

[p.dath]

Ive happily got Pilot Power 3s on my SV , ridden in pissing down westcoast rain with no probs what so ever , i originally thought these would be great 'summer only' tyres but would not hesitate to use all year round. Normaly i would use Pilot Road 3s for winter....

If you check the Michelin tyre handling chart for each tyre you'll find the wet weather handing of the PP3 is excellent. As you say, there is no reason not to use the PP3 all year round.

[p.dath]

Don't take this the wrong way the SV1000 is not a high performance bike now days - (same type of power as my Hornet 900) the Pilot Road 2 or 3 will be absolutely fine - many run them. Modern sport-touring tyres are sticky on the edges and have harder centers to reduce squaring off and thus give better mileage.

When the tyre manufacturer themselves don't recommend the tyre for a particular type of bike, and then go to the trouble of making a tool to let you look up the recommended tyre, then it is a big call to ignore their advice. But hey, ultimately it is the riders choice. :sweatdrop

[nzspokes]

Yeeeeaaaah, actually no.

The best graphs I seemed able to find. Bearing in mind different dynos can give big differences, and ignoring that, they're actually pretty close all the way through, only 5 ft-lbs difference through the rev range.

However, the SV is a twin and the CB919 is an inline 4. That alone does mean a difference in delivery and tyre torture.

Having ridden both my butt dyno says the SV comes on a lot stronger. Keep in mind your talking a alloy frame against a thin steel backbone. Hornet has a great motor, shame its not got the frame to cope with it.

[Smiff-ta]

Thanks for the help,

Interesting re the Pilot Road. - I figured these where are touring type tire which would be more suited to my riding. (Two up at the speed limit)

Might just stick with what I have, if it aint broke dont fix it?

Cheers

[caspernz]

Get the set of Pilot Road 3s, you won't regret it for the use you've described :niceone:

[release_the_bees]

For what it's worth, I use Pilot Road 3s on my SV1000 and I have never had any traction issues. The wet weather grip is awesome.

Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk

[Banditbandit]

Love Michelin Pilot Roads, don't like Pirellis ...

It depends on the bike/riding style combination ... and everyone will have a different opinion ...

I've used three different PRs - 1, 2, and 3 and love everyone ... (I had Pirelli Diablos on my 650 - changed them as soon as they wore out and never used them since )

The best advice is to try them yourself and see which ones you like ...

[p.dath]

...
The best advice is to try them yourself and see which ones you like ...

The only bummer is they are expensive to try ...

[MarkH]

Michelin are claiming that their new PR4s are better in the wet than the competition.
http://www.cycleworld.com/videos/latest_videos/michelin_pilot_road_4_performance_video/
I'll probably get some PR4 GT tyres on my next change.

[AllanB]

Have you ridden a SV1k? It has much more low down torque over the Hornet which is what eats tyres.

Sure have almost purchased one, got the Honda instead. I find the SV disappointing in the V2 grunt department - the bike needs some revs to perform. It's not a lugger like some similar sized v's

The V2 power pulses are harder on rear tyres than a IL4 easy to imagine each power pulse whacking the tyre on a V2 while the more frequent pulses of the IL4 and less violent.

All the more reason to run a sport touring compound on the SV's rear.

[AllanB]

Having ridden both my butt dyno says the SV comes on a lot stronger. Keep in mind your talking a alloy frame against a thin steel backbone. Hornet has a great motor, shame its not got the frame to cope with it.

To read too much USA bullshit. The fame is more than adequate for the engine power - stock suspenders will show their limits first. It's a USA forum wankfest to blame the frame been going on the 919 forum for years and used as a excuse by American riders for not being able to go around a corner once they find one!!!!! You'd need to be a very experienced (or bloody fat) rider to separate actual frame flex from suspension issues. Implying alloy is 'better' than steel is similarly a generalised statement of ignorance in the comparison.

[AllanB]

SV1000's came out from the FACTORY fitted with Pilot Roads (version 1). Now that's a old tyre I'd not recommend it as the 2 & 3 versions are vastly superior and fitted to many many SV's in NZ. Heck I see those tyres fitted to significantly more powerful bikes (GSXR750 etc) with riders who haul arse on them in the hills.

Oh and trademe will have dozens of SV's for sale - bet a high percentage of them are wearing sport touring tyres scrubbed to their edges ;)

Regarding the Michelin factory tyre selector - it is faulty or designed to stroke ones ego - punch in SV1000S and it recommends sport compounds - punch in the identical but naked SV1000N and you get a better selection of rubber recommended. Same bike - one with clipons and a screen, one with no plastic and higher bars ..............

http://motorcycle.michelinman.com/tire-selector#s=0

[nzspokes]

To read too much USA bullshit. The fame is more than adequate for the engine power - stock suspenders will show their limits first. It's a USA forum wankfest to blame the frame been going on the 919 forum for years and used as a excuse by American riders for not being able to go around a corner once they find one!!!!! You'd need to be a very experienced (or bloody fat) rider to separate actual frame flex from suspension issues. Implying alloy is 'better' than steel is similarly a generalised statement of ignorance in the comparison.

Well on mine the front end stabilized somewhat when I fitted the Givi crash bars. Why? Take a look at the front engine mounts. Fitting the bars tripled the size of the mount. Thats why Hornets with the crash knobs mounted to the motor snap the motor when they fall over.

A properly made steel frame can be as good as an alloy frame, this I agree with. But is the Hornet frame a good design? Its a stonking motor. Brilliant.

My personal belief stands. My proof is with my new bike which has less torque and HP than the Hornet (along with skinnier forks) I lap Hampton 17 secs faster after only having the bike a week.

[Gremlin]

Not really the right thread, but it's mostly about the rider and whether they are comfortable.

The Hornet is no sportsbike. Sure, it has a de-tuned Fireblade engine but the brakes are soft, suspension was from the budget bin and a seriously weird stock handlebar setup. The CB1000R is the naked sportsbike while the Hornet is more of a commuter.

A mate has lapped Pukekohe, maybe Hamptons quite happily in Group 2 and 3 on ART days on a Hornet, and occasionally I see someone else punting one around at a very healthy pace in Group 3 or 4. Fix up the suspension, different bars and the bike is much better for it.

[nzspokes]

Not really the right thread, but it's mostly about the rider and whether they are comfortable.

The Hornet is no sportsbike. Sure, it has a de-tuned Fireblade engine but the brakes are soft, suspension was from the budget bin and a seriously weird stock handlebar setup. The CB1000R is the naked sportsbike while the Hornet is more of a commuter.


Agreed. Hornet is an awesome commuter. I can see why the 919 Fireblade is so liked with that motor (in different tune).

I could never get comfortable with the handling of the Hornet. My old GPZ400r was more planted. Funny thing is the Hawk uses much the same swing arm and forks as the Hornet, just seems to work better together.

[AllanB]

Thats why Hornets with the crash knobs mounted to the motor snap the motor when they fall over.
.


It's just a stupid place to mount a crash knob if you think of it. Yep - hang a long length out from the single bolt mounting the front of the engine so when the bike goes down at speed all the weight and forces can be transferred to the alloy engine mount .........

Honda factory knobs mount to the frame holes in front of the engine mounts. With good reason!

I look at the mount and now consider it would be very easy to make a external plate between both holes (engine and frame) effectively strengthen the front engine mount - may experiment just to see if I notice any difference when riding. A good we wet Sunday project.