Helibars

[BlackSheepLogic]

I bought a busa for longer trips as a sport tourer. It's not a particularly aggressive set-up but I was finding my wrists were sore after 4+ hours on the bike.

LSL handlebar conversion would probably be the most comfortable choice for longer rides but you will need a new front brake line & clutch line. I did not like the look on the busa..... form over function matters. I considered risers (Genmar 1 1/4" for example ) which are a cheaper option but they don't really look good on the busa unless you drop the front end and they are only a one trick pony.

I ordered Helibars directly from Helibars which took 10 days to arrive and cost an additional 40 USD for shipping. On the busa they are 1 5/8" taller, 1/2" rearward facing and 1/2" wider. Might not sound like much but it's quite noticeable when on the bike. They also look like stock bars on the Busa. I'm happy with them and would purchase again if I buy another sports Tourer.

In the box was two nicely machined & powder coated bars (left & right) and basic instructions on installing them + the normal US litigation avoidance BS that only a qualified motorcycle mechanic should install them.

Right side install quick & easy, remove bar end, remove switch box + throttle assembly housing, remove the brake leaver + master assembly, couple of bolts holding the bar in place and slip in the right helibar. Instructions say you do not need to fully spit the switch box. I did split the switch box housing and disconnected the brake light connection. It was easier to push the bar though the throttle assembly & get the bar in. Wire harness was long enough as was the throttle cables and brake line.

Left side, bar end, switch block housing, and clutch leaver + assembly and remove the two bolts holding the bar in pace. I split the switch block housing again it seemed easer than try and feed the bar though the switch assembly. The wiring harness & clutch lines where long enough. You also need to swap over the handgrip on this side. I used an air compressor for this. The instructions suggest using a screw driver and rubbing alcohol to get the grip off. Don't know how difficult that would be and glad I did not have to try it. Think I would probably have just bough a new grip and been done with it had I not had the compressor.

Finally checked lock to lock and pulled a small amount (~ 1/2") of additional wire harness to get a bit more slack and job done.

I like the change, it feels different first time out. It's better, noticeably less presser on my wrists, better setup for longer rides, not perfect but much better.

Tools required:
Basic hand tools
Air compressor
1/4" torque wrench (1-20 LBF/FT, all bolts were < 10LBF/FT)
Thread locker (blue, Med strength)
Hand grip bond

[caspernz]

Sweet mod by the sound of it. Had my Busa for a year or so, and this is one mod that is still on that list of "should I do this?" for the moment.

Any chance of a pic?

[BlackSheepLogic]

Sweet mod by the sound of it. Had my Busa for a year or so, and this is one mod that is still on that list of "should I do this?" for the moment. Any chance of a pic?

I will grab a pic next time I get the bike out (next fine day :)

I also had the seat foam replaced by McDonald Motor Trimmers in Tauranga. Looks completely stock but a much needed improvement. It was a lot less expensive than a custom seat so something else you might want to add to the list.

[caspernz]

I will grab a pic next time I get the bike out (next fine day :)

I also had the seat foam replaced by McDonald Motor Trimmers in Tauranga. Looks completely stock but a much needed improvement. It was a lot less expensive than a custom seat so something else you might want to add to the list.

Oh heck, your crystal ball is in good form. The seat thing is further down the list, but yeah McD is on there for that little mod.

[BlackSheepLogic]

Here is a pic after installing the Helibars

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[caspernz]

Here is a pic after installing the Helibars

Thanks! Looks damn near stock from the angle you took the pic from.

We can start our own little yellow Busa club I think...

302834

[FJRider]

I bought a busa for longer trips as a sport tourer. It's not a particularly aggressive set-up but I was finding my wrists were sore after 4+ hours on the bike.



Go faster ... it takes the weight off the wrists ... :yes:

[BlackSheepLogic]

Go faster ... it takes the weight off the wrists ... :yes:

Very good point, once the pain set in the Busa did tend to pick up the pace :)

[mulletman]

Function for me...

[mulletman]

My ABM kit came with extended clutch and brake lines.

[Big Dog]

Go faster ... it takes the weight off the wrists ... :yes:

So does putting your balls on the pegs.
Not as exciting as seeing what the busa can do, but putting the balls of your feet on the pegs instead of the arches made a massive change because of which muscle group is doing the bulk of the work. You also feel less knackered.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

[BlackSheepLogic]

Putting the balls of your feet on the pegs instead of the arches made a massive change because of which muscle group is doing the bulk of the work. You also feel less knackered.

I agree technically the balls of your feet should be on the pegs. However, I find that uncomfortable, for me it is more relaxed and comfortable putting my arch on the pegs.

[Big Dog]

I agree technically the balls of your feet should be on the pegs. However, I find that uncomfortable, for me it is more relaxed and comfortable putting my arch on the pegs.

Not having a crack at anyones style, time and place.
Cracking along, I love to have my balls on the pegs, the whole bike is better balanced and more responsive.
Cruising, or on the longer straights where there is less need to provide input I used to slip forward to the arch and grip the tank harder. People forget how important it is to not hold the same position too long no matter how "correct" it is.
My 12-13s used to drag in corners when on the arches, incidentally I got toe down, knee down and even mirror down but never peg down. Even stock the pegs are high and back.

Grip has a lot to do with it as well. The real wrist ache and numbness stopped when I started consciously relaxing my hands. Supporting your core properly (by putting your balls on the pegs or gripping the tank) means you can relax you hands without just transferring all your weight to the wrists.
For other reasons I have sold the bus to buy a CB1300, even with the wider, flatter, higher bars I still have to remind myself about the grip.

On longer trips a little night strength deep heat into the wrist was magic for not getting muscle pump when you haven't done a long one for a while.