View Full Version : xv1000 turbo chopper
Seraph
7th November 2014, 18:00
I thought I aswell start a build thread for all those interested since there isnt much detail on the few turbo'd xv's around.
The base: an unknown k's xv1000 motor, custom frame, springer hybrid forks, fat tyres and big brakes..
the goal: 100hp & 100ft/lb of wheel lifting torque in a machine that refuses to be ignored
the plan: intercooled water meth injected turbo..monster paintjob
How: start by making up a turbo manifold, sch40 1 1/2 elbows should do nicely ( a little heavy, but easy to get hold.of, easy to work with!) Turbo ends up sitting top middle left with an inlet flange around Level to the top cooling fin of forward cylinder, awesome! Noones gonna miss that sucker. Next mount a gt15 turbo, air inlet faces the left, outlet points farward, exhaust exits right over a stromberg 150..
Modifyling the oil filter cover for an remote moundes spinon filter, cooler and oil feed is as easy as removing it, bore.out the centre, press in an alloy plug to block the return hole, drill it out and at the same time drill through the front into the outlet to feed back to the crank, weld on your fitting and install.
return the oil from the turbo through a -10 line into the oil fill. Easy
fueling requires a pump capable of delivering 3psi above your desired boost level, bypass regulator, pitot tube and return line, ofcorse a suitable modified carb...
more to come concerning cooling and tuning!
pictures to follow..hopefully..
AllanB
7th November 2014, 19:13
You talking of heavy wall plumbling pipe? Why do use 1.6 mm wall exhaust pipe? You can purchase prebend angles and cut/weld to suit.
Seraph
7th November 2014, 19:57
Yeap, weld elbows, steampipe bends whatever you like to call them, I already had a few floating around.. plus theyre strong, so no worries with heat distortion when things warm up, no rattles and dirt cheap (entire manifold was less than $40 in material for bends, straight, flanges and collars) I've never been a fan of thin wall tubing for turbo manifolds... got it stuck in my head it wont hold up and sound tinny.
ducatilover
12th November 2014, 13:41
:niceone:
Any updates on this?
An FCR39 or two would work pretty sweet on that, they're pretty easy to obtain and have decent float needles
Seraph
15th November 2014, 11:27
Everything is starting yo arrivr, manifold is mostly made, turbo is positioned starting to run lines et.
ohh they look nice, pricey though!
Seraph
15th November 2014, 13:55
Update;
fuel supply is all figured
Pwm module running a bosch 044 through a modified aeromotive a1000-6 regulator, 4psi base pressure Into the float bowl..
perhaps a little overkill but its what I had handy
Seraph
15th November 2014, 14:36
http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10658547_10154868909115096_910763710222497657_o.jp g
FJRider
15th November 2014, 16:34
Everything is starting yo arrivr, manifold is mostly made, turbo is positioned starting to run lines et.
ohh they look nice, pricey though!
Have you considered the CHAIN DRIVE option ... ???
This guy was racing at Greymouth with some degree of success ...
Seraph
15th November 2014, 18:51
Sorry? It is chain driven...
ducatilover
16th November 2014, 22:00
lol an 044 pump with pwm to reduce pressure is hugely overkill, I like! What's it cost to do a set up like that? I never even considered doing that, makes sense because an 044 is a cheap pump and very reliable
ellipsis
17th November 2014, 10:14
Sorry? It is chain driven...
...some CUNTS think they know it ALL...
Seraph
17th November 2014, 11:09
lol an 044 pump with pwm to reduce pressure is hugely overkill, I like! What's it cost to do a set up like that? I never even considered doing that, makes sense because an 044 is a cheap pump and very reliable
Can get some pretty cheap pwm units thatll do 30amp out of china now, youd get change out of a 20 plus the cost of pump, regulator and relays.. id say $350 and youd be away laughing.
The Reibz
17th November 2014, 15:01
Is that a aliexpress turbo? Sweet project.
Since your only runing 4psi you might find you won't need intercooler. Being that its a aircooled motor its probably a good idea to have one though.
I have a Genuine AEM Alcohol/Meth injection setup still in the box that I might part with if you wanted it.
Seraph
17th November 2014, 15:25
Is that a aliexpress turbo? Sweet project.
Since your only runing 4psi you might find you won't need intercooler. Being that its a aircooled motor its probably a good idea to have one though.
I have a Genuine AEM Alcohol/Meth injection setup still in the box that I might part with if you wanted it.
Its an ebay no namer so most likely a chinas finest..for thr most part a good majprity of the parts are chinese to keep cost down and just see what they're capable of..
might end up being as high as 14pound, see how much power Itll pump before knockin, the water meth setup ive got for now is pretty simple (100psi mini pump, couple of misting nozzles and and.on/off pressure switch) so could be keen!
sidecar bob
17th November 2014, 16:09
The thing that kills Chinese turbos is the machining swarf left in the centre housing at manufacture.
Flushing it out before use would be good insurance.
Grumph
17th November 2014, 16:46
The thing that kills Chinese turbos is the machining swarf left in the centre housing at manufacture.
Flushing it out before use would be good insurance.
Sounds just like 80's Italian front forks...
When it does rattle from too much boost, the Manley rods are still here, LOL...
Just be aware they pinged badly on street gas when new.
Seraph
17th November 2014, 18:14
Sounds just like 80's Italian front forks...
When it does rattle from too much boost, the Maley rods are still here, LOL...
Just be aware they pinged badly on street gas when new.
Ill make sure to blow it out haha I might take you up on that at some point..just have to find pistons that fita when it pops!
I think its had some headwork and wster/meth, cooled charge and retarding the timing with an ignitech tci should hopefully calm it down a little
ducatilover
17th November 2014, 19:12
The thing that kills Chinese turbos is the machining swarf left in the centre housing at manufacture.
Flushing it out before use would be good insurance.
And the majority haven't been balanced properly, or torqued up. So also worth checking :innocent: DAMHIK
Seraph
17th November 2014, 21:33
And the majority haven't been balanced properly, or torqued up. So also worth checking :innocent: DAMHIK
No idea how to check the balance, but ill go hulk on its ass with a torque wrench tomorrow.
any other advice will be taken, although I've done pkis t builds before this is a little more complicated considering tje lack of info..
ducatilover
18th November 2014, 08:44
No idea how to check the balance, but ill go hulk on its ass with a torque wrench tomorrow.
Find a torque setting for the corresponding Jap made turbo and go with that :2thumbsup
Balance, no idea, we'd just send it to a bloke like Steve Murch, because he's the bestest.
I really do like the pwm idea, I'm going to look in to that. Toyota started using a similar thing with switched PWM on the 1UZFE and 1/2JZ motors, running a 75% duty 12v signal to the pump on low throttle positions, then run 12v on start and higher load. (their pwm units fuck out left right and center but "only" cost $300 from Toyota)
*Boot's*
23rd November 2014, 15:47
Cool, where are the other pics? frame? wheels? etc....
MENTAL490
31st March 2017, 21:17
No idea how to check the balance, but ill go hulk on its ass with a torque wrench tomorrow.
any other advice will be taken, although I've done pkis t builds before this is a little more complicated considering tje lack of info..
just do it up till it goes easy, it was about half a turn back
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