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TheDemonLord
13th December 2014, 16:21
So my bike has a large tight spot on the chain - so I am going to be looking at replacing (probably in the next week or 2).

After some gogling - I have garnered the following:

I will be replacing the sprockets at the same time I do the chain.
X-Ring chains last longer and since I commute long distance, I am looking at this type of chain
If I want to do it myself I will need a chain breaker and a chain putter-back-together-er
The stock chain on my bike is a 525 pitch, 118 link chain.
DID is apparently a good reputable brand

However doing some further gogling indicates I can drop it down to a 520 pitch chain (Lower rolling mass, and cheaper cost of chain), since 520 chains are rated up to 750cc and mine is a 650

So I am asking for advise on whether to stick with OEM (and cough up the extra $$$) or look at dropping down a chain size.

Note - I am not looking to mess with the gearing.

bogan
13th December 2014, 17:07
Chain might be cheaper, but in my experience non-standard sprockets are a kkaaahnnnttt to get for cheap. 525-520 conversion is done on my 650 too, and apparently plenty strong enough even for worked 700 versions.
DID x-ring is what I run too, chain riveter is a must have to DIY; though you could go with a clip-link instead, and just remove old chain with a hammer...

BigAl
13th December 2014, 17:48
You won't get the same life out of the lighter 520 but it all depends on how long you are keeping the bike.

Dids are good chains.

spanner spinner
13th December 2014, 18:13
most bikes with 525 will take either 520 or 530, the 520 will not do as much mileage. In the case of a v twin it is never a good idea to go down in chain size due to the peak torque loading which can cause the chain to break which is why most v twins run large chains for the horse power they make. See if you can get sprockets to suit and go to 530 would be my recommendation.

awayatc
13th December 2014, 18:35
How many kms did you get out of your old chain. ?....

caspernz
13th December 2014, 19:12
Stick with stock sizes I'd say. Are you running an oiler?

nodrog
13th December 2014, 20:51
You're retarded.

Owl
14th December 2014, 05:56
How many kms did you get out of your old chain. ?....

Quite curious about this also.

TheDemonLord
14th December 2014, 10:00
How many kms did you get out of your old chain. ?....

Not sure if the previous owner replaced the chain, if not, then I got 36,000 - 37,000 km out of it (I probably have one last adjust out of it) - if the previous chain was replaced, I got the bike at 22,000 km - so at I got at least 15,000 out of it

I'm not running an oiler (but really want to get one, as I have heard they double or even triple chain life, but I has not the $$$ atm)


You're retarded.

Thanks for your valuable input - if you could kindly fuck off and stop being a cunt, that would be great.

biketimus_prime
14th December 2014, 10:44
If you get a chain with master link rather than rivet then you can do it all yourself without special tools. To remove the old chain (assuming it is also master link) I just butchered the master link clip and then pried apart the link with a screwdriver and lots of swearing. If your old chain is a rivet link then just cut the bastard.

To put the new master link and plate on you can just use vice grips again with a small nut seated against the side plate. Heaps of youtube videos on how to do it using that method. The master link clip can be put on using a pair of needle nose pliers without any hassle, no need for special tools. Just make sure it goes on the correct way to the rotation of travel.

I did my chain and both sprockets in less than 1.5 hrs having never done any of it before. Just watch a few youtube videos first and you'll be fine!
Remember to torque down the front sprocket and the little ones holding the rear sprocket to spec, as in get a torque wrench and don't do it by feel using a spanner or something.
Little bit of BLUE threadlock won't hurt either but mine are fine after only correct torquing. I check them everytime I oil my chain though.

tri boy
14th December 2014, 13:29
Step 1: Purchase the correct chain, (in 525 sizing) with correct sprockets.

Step 2: Take chain sprockets around to the shops workshop, and ask them to fit them properly. (using the correct tools and knowledge).

Step 3: Ride home, knowing that the rivet master link/sprockets/chain are secured correctly, and if any drama arises you have there assistance assured.

Step 4: Relax.;)

Mike.Gayner
14th December 2014, 14:13
Step 1: Purchase the correct chain, (in 525 sizing) with correct sprockets.

Step 2: Take chain sprockets around to the shops workshop, and ask them to fit them properly. (using the correct tools and knowledge).

Step 3: Ride home, knowing that the rivet master link/sprockets/chain are secured correctly, and if any drama arises you have there assistance assured.

Step 4: Relax.;)

What a pathetic attitude.

mrchips
14th December 2014, 14:53
I'm not running an oiler (but really want to get one, as I have heard they double or even triple chain life, but I has not the $$$ atm)

+1000, the auto oilers may seem expensive but i highly recommend, specially for commuting.

I've done 25,000 km on a new chain (& sprockets) commuting in all sorts of glorious wellington weather. Haven't cleaned or oiled it apart from what my scottoiler is doing + only had to adjust the chain a tiny amount once. The chain still looks spiffing.

tri boy
14th December 2014, 17:23
What a pathetic attitude.

Whats "pathetic" about it:wait:
If a person or poster needs to garner advice on fitting chains and sprockets, then I believe it is good advice to steer them towards those who know how.
I have spent more decades in workshops fixing home mechanics efforts than I care to think about. (not solely related to bikes, but about two decades are).

Whats your sage advice hot shot?

Mike.Gayner
14th December 2014, 18:14
Whats "pathetic" about it:wait:
If a person or poster needs to garner advice on fitting chains and sprockets, then I believe it is good advice to steer them towards those who know how.
I have spent more decades in workshops fixing home mechanics efforts than I care to think about. (not solely related to bikes, but about two decades are).

Whats your sage advice hot shot?

So I guess you were born with the knowledge to do this stuff, eh?

Fucking dick head.

bogan
14th December 2014, 18:18
Whats "pathetic" about it:wait:

You forgot the real number 4; do a mean skid au :headbang:, relax then becomes numbers 5 ofc.

Big Dog
14th December 2014, 23:51
Home job for sure. I'd go with a. Heavier chain and lube more often. Oilers are great if correctly installed. I have gotten 60-70,000 out of each chain except the DR. that I changed at 20 because the sprockets were worn. Had been someone's adventure / trail bike for most of 8k.
I have never had an oiler. I have heard of 150 being achieved by oilers. Normally sprockets gone before chain.

I like JT sprockets. Good range. Most available in steel for durability, heavy alloy for a balance or light alloy for performance. Most dealers do kits.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

caspernz
15th December 2014, 03:38
To put the new master link and plate on you can just use vice grips again with a small nut seated against the side plate. Heaps of youtube videos on how to do it using that method. The master link clip can be put on using a pair of needle nose pliers without any hassle, no need for special tools. Just make sure it goes on the correct way to the rotation of travel.

Master link and a clip belongs on pedal powered bikes only...so I hope you're joking. I'd suggest buying the proper chain tool along with the sprocket and chain kit if one is going to tackle this job at home. If any doubts, leave it to a pro, cheaper in the long run. But that's already been mentioned I see...

tri boy
15th December 2014, 17:03
Fucking dick head.

Hopefully Santa will bring you some books to advance your vocab:killingme

biketimus_prime
15th December 2014, 18:19
Master link and a clip belongs on pedal powered bikes only...so I hope you're joking. I'd suggest buying the proper chain tool along with the sprocket and chain kit if one is going to tackle this job at home. If any doubts, leave it to a pro, cheaper in the long run. But that's already been mentioned I see...

Why are master link and clip only for pedal bikes?
I've done close to 5000km since installing mine and it's been fine. My bike is a 250 though but seriously that's a bit of an exaggeration?

Kickaha
15th December 2014, 18:31
Why are master link and clip only for pedal bikes?
I've done close to 5000km since installing mine and it's been fine.

Did 50,000km on my Ducati 900 using them, propely installed they don't cause any problems

Big Dog
15th December 2014, 18:42
Did 50,000km on my Ducati 900 using them, propely installed they don't cause any problems

When I did the link on my DR the mechanic I discussed it with first was of the opinion if you've screwed the pooch you will know be for the next service.
Done 28,000 since.

He also said most failures happen because of not reading the instructions and putting the clip facing the wrong way or not flush.

biketimus_prime
15th December 2014, 20:58
I did some browsing and there are loads of stories where clip links have failed. I went and had a look at mine now, still solidly on there. I did twist a bit of metal wire around it now though but honestly I can't see it failing. If they're so bad, why the hell do they still have them! Not even a warning on the chain instructions about not using it for road bikes or anything.

Flip
15th December 2014, 21:41
I did 16kkm on the factory chain on my old 1200 Trophy, fitted a scott oiler and a new chain then did another 80kkm before I sold the bike. During that time I adjusted the chain twice.

Rivet links are a kind of good insurance. Spring clip links are well, just to get you home.

Beg borrow or steal a chain riveter. If you were local you could borrow mine.

Taxythingy
15th December 2014, 22:00
I'd wager the clips are like most mechanical bits. Most failures happen within a short time after installation and are a direct result of it not being done correctly.

12,000 km on my last and was still mint. Bought previous bike with a fucked chain as the clip had popped off prior to any test rides. Ride home that day was reeeal casual...

TheDemonLord
16th December 2014, 07:20
So as an FYI - I am not going to do this myself - I was keen on the idea but I don't have either:

a Centre Stand
a race jack
or
a sturdy rafter to hoist the bike up from

So this will be a professional job - but next time will DIY it (once I have gotten myself a race jack)

Big Dog
16th December 2014, 08:39
Would you do it yourself if you could borrow a suitable stand?


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Big Dog
16th December 2014, 08:40
What bike is this for?


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Tazz
16th December 2014, 09:29
So as an FYI - I am not going to do this myself - I was keen on the idea but I don't have either:

a Centre Stand
a race jack
or
a sturdy rafter to hoist the bike up from

So this will be a professional job - but next time will DIY it (once I have gotten myself a race jack)

You can use a bottle, scissor or trolley jack on the bottom of the frame. Might have to whip one or both of the side fairings off depending on where they sit.

TheDemonLord
16th December 2014, 09:37
Would you do it yourself if you could borrow a suitable stand?


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

I would do it myself if I had all the necessary tools, but TBH - I looked at my Odometer and I need to get it serviced anyway, so 2 birds, 1 stone.

But yes, in the future - something like a chain replace is well within my mechanical skill level (or at least I think it is) provided I have the right tools (the bike is a GSX650FU)

Big Dog
16th December 2014, 10:53
Fair enough. Just checking you wouldn't rather borrow a stand.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Big Dog
16th December 2014, 10:58
For how often the typical rider changes a chain the tools can be expensive. Sure you can buy a breaker for about $15. IME these should be considered use once. A proper breaker riveter is upwards of 150.
I like the DRC one I bought for my father in law. Others claim the pins are weak but the design is pretty effective / efficient and you can buy new pins. Premium brands cost way more but you are unlikely to need to replace the pins unless you are a full time bike mechanic. Or rough with your tools.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

biketimus_prime
17th December 2014, 20:59
Torpedo 7 has awesome seals and right now these are a steal! (They go on sale like this every month or so)

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFR/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front---rear-lift-stand-set

I got the same pair but also you'll have to buy these adapters for your swing arm as you probably don't have bobbins: https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNSC/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-rear-lift-stand---swingarm-adaptor-ver-3



The price you pay for all that is cheaper than most rear stands alone. You will not find them cheaper anywhere else except second hand for just one!

Both of mine are sturdy as hell and have no problems. I use them almost every week and I can even push my bike around the garage with it sitting on both stands. You may as well get them if you plan to always ride. They're a must have, like a car jack for a car.

Big Dog
17th December 2014, 22:42
Cheaper than I paid for a rear stand.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

TheDemonLord
18th December 2014, 08:13
Cheaper than I paid for a rear stand.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Oooooo I think I know what I want for Christmas now!

Big Dog
18th December 2014, 10:05
Oooooo I think I know what I want for Christmas now!

No. Only buying one present this year, and your not the one that puts out. :bleh:


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

haydes55
18th December 2014, 10:16
Torpedo 7 has awesome seals and right now these are a steal! (They go on sale like this every month or so)

https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNFR/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-front---rear-lift-stand-set

I got the same pair but also you'll have to buy these adapters for your swing arm as you probably don't have bobbins: https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/T7S7LNNSC/title/torpedo7-motorcycle-rear-lift-stand---swingarm-adaptor-ver-3



The price you pay for all that is cheaper than most rear stands alone. You will not find them cheaper anywhere else except second hand for just one!

Both of mine are sturdy as hell and have no problems. I use them almost every week and I can even push my bike around the garage with it sitting on both stands. You may as well get them if you plan to always ride. They're a must have, like a car jack for a car.


I bought myself a Christmas present. Cheers for the heads up.

TheDemonLord
19th December 2014, 18:31
New chain is on - Ye Gods it feels better

haydes55
19th December 2014, 19:07
I bought myself a Christmas present. Cheers for the heads up.


That was quick, here already. Good quality, solid feeling. Very much second hand though.

Big Dog
19th December 2014, 19:16
That was quick, here already. Good quality, solid feeling. Very much second hand though.

Really?


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

haydes55
20th December 2014, 10:25
Really?


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.


Yea the stand had scuff marks, stickers had been pulled off then new stickers put over where the old ones were. Where they clip together the paint was already scratched.

Guessing it was bought, used for one job then returned and sold on to me.

But for $80 it's a shitload better quality than I was expecting so I don't mind.

Big Dog
20th December 2014, 16:54
That's a bit toady bit if your happy that's all that matters.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

biketimus_prime
20th December 2014, 17:29
Haydes that shouldn't happen and their customer service is amazing. You should tell them that it was scuffed and all and they'd send you out a set within a day or at least replace the bits I'm sure (if you don't mind the minor hassles) I didn't get my adapters with the stands when I ordered it. I told them that afternoon and the adapters were at my door the next morning! She even said to keep the old adapters so now I have extra bobbin type adapters if I need them.
Both my stands were brand new and mint though so I'm sure not all their stands are second hand looking things :)

haydes55
20th December 2014, 19:36
Haydes that shouldn't happen and their customer service is amazing. You should tell them that it was scuffed and all and they'd send you out a set within a day or at least replace the bits I'm sure (if you don't mind the minor hassles) I didn't get my adapters with the stands when I ordered it. I told them that afternoon and the adapters were at my door the next morning! She even said to keep the old adapters so now I have extra bobbin type adapters if I need them.

Both my stands were brand new and mint though so I'm sure not all their stands are second hand looking things :)


If I got brand new ones, they'd end up looking like this after a week anyway. I'm happy, was just a strange thing to see when I was opening my present.

TheDemonLord
25th December 2014, 07:24
Santa got me a brand new Rear Axle stand - its going to make lubing my rear chain so much easier!

swtfa
22nd April 2015, 21:43
Been browsing through posts for information regarding chains - mine needs replacing. Got the information I needed from this post. Just wanted to say thanks guys :)

Erelyes
23rd April 2015, 09:35
Been browsing through posts for information regarding chains - mine needs replacing. Got the information I needed from this post. Just wanted to say thanks guys :)

When I was googling I found this very helpful (http://forum.motomummy.com/index.php?/topic/70-motomummy-chain-review/).

Takeaways -
- Riveted master link has 100% the reliability of the other links. Screw master link has 95% the reliability, clip master link 70%.
- All 520 chains are not equal. Some are heavier/stronger, others lighter/weaker. Some 520s may surpass weak 525s. More expensive does not necessarily mean lasts longer, it could just be lighter (in exchange for less life).
- Any decent aftermarket chain will be better than what it came from the factory with, and will offer fine service if looked after.

I borrowed a breaker/ rivet tool from a buddy to do my chain recently. Wasn't too tough for my first time. The one on there was a 108 link and was well fucked (no more swingarm adjustment), compared to my new one where it fitted with hardly any adjustment at the other end!

I found this helpful as well (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1hgZ1eLmPE) for making sure the rear wheel is square after. Not 100%, or as good as laser, but will be better than using the swingarm marks. Use duct tape on the rear tyre to hold the string in place. You might want to use a level to make sure the string is level-ish on the rear wheel too.

Other thing about that - set chain tension first, getting the rear 'roughly' aligned (using swingarm marks) first. Then when you adjust the alignment with the string method, use just the brake side adjuster to square it up, that way you're not putting your chain tension out as much.

swtfa
23rd April 2015, 09:57
When I was googling I found this very helpful (http://forum.motomummy.com/index.php?/topic/70-motomummy-chain-review/).


Yes very helpful, THANK YOU :)