View Full Version : Need tie down ideas for metric fine thread
Gremlin
15th January 2015, 16:00
In the back of the Hiace most seats have been removed, leaving me some brilliant holes in the floor and thread on the walls to be re-purposed as tie down points.
I thought I was away laughing, until I found out the damn japs used metric fine thread instead of standard metric, so now I can't use eye nuts and bolts like I was intending. Metric fine only seems to have standard nuts available for the most part.
So it seems like my only option is to have some sort of ring and use the existing bolts and nuts, just thread the ring through it. So what sort of ring am I looking for? Most rings for tie down use are the folding type, recess into floors etc with 2-4 tiny holes to mount to a sheet.
Failing that, it's aluminium sheet cut up with two holes in, one for mounting, one for tie down, but the floor ones would have to be bent. Needs to cope with a couple of hundred kilos I'd say.
kiwi-on-wheels
15th January 2015, 16:14
weld on a loop? someone like EDL or Fortress Fasteners should be able to help you out, if they don't have it they can normally make it for you
tigertim20
15th January 2015, 16:18
hard to explain the thing Ive seen, but try TWL if you have a branch nearby. I got some a couple years back for my van. that went straight in, after having the same issue you describe.
Gremlin
15th January 2015, 16:21
weld on a loop? someone like EDL or Fortress Fasteners should be able to help you out, if they don't have it they can normally make it for you
Don't want to weld anyting to the threads etc, as then I couldn't put the seats back if I wanted to.
hard to explain the thing Ive seen, but try TWL if you have a branch nearby. I got some a couple years back for my van. that went straight in, after having the same issue you describe.
It's a right bastard when you don't know the name of what you're looking for :laugh:
nzspokes
15th January 2015, 16:25
There is a van outfitting place down the road from techmoto. I deal with one of the staff. Text me tomorrow and I will look up there details at work.
Ocean1
15th January 2015, 16:28
I thought I was away laughing, until I found out the damn japs used metric fine thread instead of standard metric,
The good news is that metric fine IS a standard. The bad news is the Japs, like everyone else use lots of non-standard threads as well.
Dude, go to any fasteners supply outfit and ask what they've got, and have a wee look here for what to fasten: http://www.comac.co.nz/
Edit, looks like these migh do it: http://www.comac.co.nz/modules/SP_webshop/products.php?cat=290
nzspokes
15th January 2015, 16:30
There is a van outfitting place down the road from techmoto. I deal with one of the staff. Text me tomorrow and I will look up there details at work.
Found them, http://vanextras.co.nz/
kiwi-on-wheels
15th January 2015, 16:31
i ment grab a bolt that fits and weld a loop to the top of that, but yeah, any decent fasteners outfit, if they dont have it they can get / make it
paturoa
15th January 2015, 16:40
I'll bring my thread pitch gauge on Saturday and we can measure it.
There are several nut and bolt places that you can go visit that will likely have a solution for you as well.
Edit: finished the last of my frame mods this arvo and stuck on the go pro thingie crooked!
mossy1200
15th January 2015, 16:49
http://www.multistrut.co.nz/STRUT-FITTINGS.html
ms2106 is the one I used 75degree angle.
Gremlin
15th January 2015, 17:19
A bit of angle iron cut to fit with one hole for the the floor bolt and the other to fit the tie down.
Not a bad idea, will hold it in resever
The good news is that metric fine IS a standard. The bad news is the Japs, like everyone else use lots of non-standard threads as well.
Dude, go to any fasteners supply outfit and ask what they've got, and have a wee look here for what to fasten: http://www.comac.co.nz/
Edit, looks like these migh do it: http://www.comac.co.nz/modules/SP_webshop/products.php?cat=290
Yep, it is a standard, but not a common standard. I went to Anzor (my usual go to) and that's when I realised it wasn't a "normal" standard... For some reason they don't do metric fine other than nuts, and gave me another place, which also drew a bit of a blank... That link is good, very much what I was thinking of, just not sure how it's rated load wise...
I'll bring my thread pitch gauge on Saturday and we can measure it.
Edit: finished the last of my frame mods this arvo and stuck on the go pro thingie crooked!
Cheers, I'll bring a nut and bolt. Can't believe after all that work you couldn't stick a go pro mount on straight! :laugh: I believe it's 1.25
http://www.multistrut.co.nz/STRUT-FITTINGS.html
ms2106 is the one I used 75degree angle.
That's much in line with cassina's suggestion. Do you have a rough idea of price per bracket?
mossy1200
15th January 2015, 17:36
That's much in line with cassina's suggestion. Do you have a rough idea of price per bracket?
Not much. I got mine from a bin of spares at work.
I can see what is at work if you like. Its more likely plenty of 90s around.
At a guess new would be a 5dollar item each.
your seat bolts are likely 12mm idd say and the bolt holes are 14mm. You can get m10 holes also I think.
Also I bolted mine to the bottom seatbelt bolts in the lite ace. They allow for a better angle. I made two brackets that stay in the front bolted into the firewall. I made a wheel locator also that might be in my garage if you need it. Havent seen it for a while though would need look for it.
schrodingers cat
15th January 2015, 17:36
Quite often, seatbelt attachment threads and the like are M11 x 1.0
Conveniently 7/16UNF screws right in
Auto performance shops that sell competition seat harnesses would have eye bolts that thread in nicely
Gremlin
15th January 2015, 17:50
Both walls and floors are M10, the nuts and bolts mate to each other happily enough (so at least consistency is there).
Wheels are already solved with a wheel chock (got them), as I'm pondering over rotating one sideways to get the bars out of the way for the 2nd bike space (and clear the roof sloping inwards near the top - aka, be able to leave the mirror on). They'll mount to a ply floor...
90s are probably more practical, can't imagine something like that would be able to bend...
mossy1200
15th January 2015, 17:53
Both walls and floors are M10, the nuts and bolts mate to each other happily enough (so at least consistency is there).
Wheels are already solved with a wheel chock (got them), as I'm pondering over rotating one sideways to get the bars out of the way for the 2nd bike space (and clear the roof sloping inwards near the top - aka, be able to leave the mirror on). They'll mount to a ply floor...
90s are probably more practical, can't imagine something like that would be able to bend...
Strop would snap well before bend the multi strut 90s. They are about 5-6mm thickness.
ruaphu
15th January 2015, 18:33
Well i used to use the old seat belt anchor points that was sewn to the end of the belt. I got a hand full from one wrecked car. Cut off the old belts, drilled it out a bit to fit one of those climbing clamp thingies. Then simply slipped the modded part onto seatbelt bolt and done it up, done.
No messing about, strong as and tons of movement and space to fit any type of tie down or rope. They lasted years, i gave em away with the van.
Cheers
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ocean1
15th January 2015, 19:11
Yep, it is a standard, but not a common standard.
It's extremely common in the auto industry. In fact it's a bit unusual to see an ISO coarse thread.
Yep, it is a standard, but not a common standard. I went to Anzor (my usual go to) and that's when I realised it wasn't a "normal" standard... For some reason they don't do metric fine other than nuts, and gave me another place, which also drew a bit of a blank... That link is good, very much what I was thinking of, just not sure how it's rated load wise...
ANZOR tend to specialise in stainless/marine stuff. Why don't you just use the original bolts, they'll be higher spec'd than most options you'll get from the likes of EDL anyway. AND you'll know where to find them when you come to put the seats back. :laugh:
Gremlin
15th January 2015, 19:16
ANZOR tend to specialise in stainless/marine stuff. Why don't you just use the original bolts, they'll be higher spec'd than most options you'll get from the likes of EDL anyway. AND you'll know where to find them when you come to put the seats back. :laugh:
Well the initial plan was to replace with ones with eyes on the end... obviously that didn't work out too good :(
Now it's putting something on the thread/bolt to tie from and re-using the existing hardware - yes, good point about finding them :lol:
Ocean1
15th January 2015, 19:26
yes, good point about finding them :lol:
Damhik....
Reckless
15th January 2015, 19:32
Re tap them and get new bolts when you refit the seats??
neels
15th January 2015, 19:40
If you can find correctly theaded capscrews, hollow box with a hole right through bolt size then drill the top out to head size to get the bolt through and tool access to do it up. Either hook through the top hole or through the box section.
Akzle
15th January 2015, 19:44
fuck reading.
Rock climbing anchors like a fucking boss.
Stainless steel and M12 as shit.
Akzle
15th January 2015, 19:45
also drill, tap and helicoil to sensible sizes. Like M12 like a fucking boss.
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