Stop that bike

[Ayrtonsenna]

Hi Guys
After some advice regarding brake pads.

I’ve just stepped off a 450 4s, and on to a 250 4s both having 260mm discs / Bembro front ends.

Every time I’ve taken the 250 out I’ve over heated the font…starts to fade….and she starts squealing.

I’ve tried to change my riding style- lots more engine braking…using the front sparingly…but all this does is delay the inevitable.

Trail ride on sunday (Sheffield) was the last straw……cant keep riding like this.

Spoke to guy parked next to me in the pits told me to cut several groves in the pads to deduce surface frication, dissipate the heat.

I can appreciate there must various options regarding break pads on the market, I’m keen to take steeps to increase the stopping power…but where to start!


Appreciate the advice.

A

[Rhys]

Have you checked if the brakes are releasing properly, not dragging ?

replace the pads

[scott411]

i have never faded front brakes on a modern mx bike doing anything but super motard on standard discs, something is wrong, (on bikes that do not have as bigger brakes as your 250 does)

i would check that the front forks are not binding up, and that the front caliper is moving on its pins properly, would not hurt to bleed the front brake system as well, if you have cooked them then the fluid will be shot,

[Ayrtonsenna]

Yes I have removed the pads- inspected- no grooves in the pins...there not dragging....plenty of pad left....but I haven't replaced the fluid?

I'd like to replace the pads...but with what flavour?

[SVboy]

It has been claimed the original factory pads are always the best to use. You could look at replacing the brake fluid and the fluid it has may not be the correct fluid. Brake discs do get hot to touch but I have never experienced brake fade as a result.

It has been claimed by whom? Wrong fluid? What planet are you off? It sure is not this one.

[scott411]

It has been claimed by whom? Wrong fluid? What planet are you off? It sure is not this one.

from most peeple that have used alot of dirt bike pads, never used anything as good as genuine,

as for the wrong fluid, the cap will tell you that, pretty sure it will be dot 4, dot 5 is not really needed in dirt bikes, as the heat does not get that bad (normally)

[SVboy]

from most peeple that have used alot of dirt bike pads, never used anything as good as genuine,

as for the wrong fluid, the cap will tell you that, pretty sure it will be dot 4, dot 5 is not really needed in dirt bikes, as the heat does not get that bad (normally)

Road bikes is not so clear cut. Different pads for different feel or applications. Sintered, organic and personal preference for brake feel comes into it. I can't comment about dirt bikes, but I can comment about that fuckwit Cassina!

[AllanB]

I have never put the wrong fluid in but if all grades of fluid were equal why do manufacturers say use only a specific Dot number?

Heat rating as a rule other than silicone.

3,4,5.1 are glycol based. 5 is silicone and should not be mixed with the others.

[pete-blen]

you must have brake drag...
even with hard braking on a dirt bike
you should not heat the brakes enough
for them to fade.. your on dirt you can
only brake so hard before the wheel locks..
Check the master cylinder to see if it is
releasing the presure straight away after
you use the brake..
put your knee against the caliper and push it hard
& see how meany pumps of the lever it takes to pump
the system back up, if none / lever pressure straight away the
caliper is frozen on the pins it slides on...

[scott411]

Road bikes is not so clear cut. Different pads for different feel or applications. Sintered, organic and personal preference for brake feel comes into it. I can't comment about dirt bikes, but I can comment about that fuckwit Cassina!

if you did not know about dirt bikes, why would you comment in the dirt bike forum?

and i know the road bikes, and esp road race bikes are different,

[Ayrtonsenna]

you must have brake drag...
even with hard braking on a dirt bike
you should not heat the brakes enough
for them to fade.. your on dirt you can
only brake so hard before the wheel locks..
Check the master cylinder to see if it is
releasing the presure straight away after
you use the brake..
put your knee against the caliper and push it hard
& see how meany pumps of the lever it takes to pump
the system back up, if none / lever pressure straight away the
caliper is frozen on the pins it slides on...

Cheers Pete-I'll have another look....thank you.

[SVboy]

if you did not know about dirt bikes, why would you comment in the dirt bike forum?

and i know the road bikes, and esp road race bikes are different,

My apologies, I just detest the drivel that that fuckwit Cassandra posts. I also own a couple of dirt bikes so am open to learning.

[scott411]

My apologies, I just detest the drivel that that fuckwit Cassandra posts. I also own a couple of dirt bikes so am open to learning.

sweet as,

in what i know about dirt bike pads, i have found pads that stop as well as genuine, but dont last like them, or ones that last like them, but dont stop like them, i have tried most pads over the years, even EMGO ones i was getting for free, (but going through 3 sets in a day once i went back to buying genuines)

[Big Dog]

My 10c. If you're experiencing fade and you're sure the callipers are doing the business and you are sure you are not "resting" your fingers on the lever enough to engage them slightly:
Is your front wheel aligned correctly?
Is your rotor true?
Are your rotors and pads OEM? If not you may wish to return to stock or upgrade.
Are the air holes in your rotor clean and free of contaminants.
If you have floating rotors and they are too loose or incorrectly secured fixed rotors they will heat up fast.

Wavy and cross drilled rotors lose heat faster.
Sintered pads lose heat faster.
Ceramic pads take a lot more to heat up in the first place. Pretty tragic in the wet though.
If your pads are metal gear brand what you are talking about is par for the course. They make awesome rotors. Shit pads.



Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

[Big Dog]

Ps: people often mistake boiling brake fluid for brake fade.
If you have not already, bleed your lines and or flush the lines and refill with the right fluid.


Not recall boiling the fluid so much as creating cavitation by collecting air and separating water into its components, compression of the air in the cavity allows the pads to recede while you apply the same force to the lever.

Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

[Ayrtonsenna]

Hi Guys, had the brake calliper re-built- as it had partially seized..so it was binding...and heating up the disc....that and the fluid had changed colour!, so its been like that for awhile...all sorted now!

Thanks for the advice- appreciate it!

A

[BMWST?]

Hi Guys
After some advice regarding brake pads.

I’ve just stepped off a 450 4s, and on to a 250 4s both having 260mm discs / Bembro front ends.

Every time I’ve taken the 250 out I’ve over heated the font…starts to fade….and she starts squealing.

I’ve tried to change my riding style- lots more engine braking…using the front sparingly…but all this does is delay the inevitable.

Trail ride on sunday (Sheffield) was the last straw……cant keep riding like this.

Spoke to guy parked next to me in the pits told me to cut several groves in the pads to deduce surface frication, dissipate the heat.

I can appreciate there must various options regarding break pads on the market, I’m keen to take steeps to increase the stopping power…but where to start!


Appreciate the advice.

A


Hi Guys, had the brake calliper re-built- as it had partially seized..so it was binding...and heating up the disc....that and the fluid had changed colour!, so its been like that for awhile...all sorted now!

Thanks for the advice- appreciate it!

A
your first post was very clever in a couple of spots...:laugh: