Mobil 1 and your bike

[FROSTY]

Just a word of warning to anyone that thinks oil is oil is oil.
The bike I've "borrowed" had a recent oil change. I went to start it cold the other morning and the starter clutch wouldn't engage.
Turns out the silly bugger had changed the oil and put mobil 1 car oil in it
A flush with some old oil from mella yella and a fresh drop or two of elf oil and its right as rain.
So when changing your oil --make sure the stuff ya put in is motorcycle rated definitely not friction modified

[White trash]

Bear in mind though, that there is Mobil 1 bike oil. In fact, it's all the Triumph factory will let you use in their bikes if you want a warranty.

[Blackbird]

Are you blaming Mobil 1? You're right that oils do have different additive packages. Normal car Mobil 1 should NOT be used for bikes with wet clutches because of the friction modifiers increasing the risk of clutch slippage. You can get Mobil 1 motorcycle oils specifically without certain parts of the additive package. I've run my bikes and cars on Mobil 1 for years but when I bought the Blackbird, I discontinued using Mobil 4T Racing (bike specific) because Honda recommend using semi-synthetic. I now use Motul 5100. Mobil 1 will stay the oil of choice in our cars.


http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx#FAQs1

[Motu]

I don't think M1 is friction modified,kinda pointless.There are motorcycle and diesel Mobil 1 versions - the difference is less viscosity improvers,higher flash point,more antiwear additives(zinc,moly) and is more polar,whatever that means.Friction modified oils are for the US market,normaly 10/30 and thinner and all to do with passing economy tests.Mobil 1 from Repco and the like is usualy 5/50,for a bike you want 15/50 or 10/40.

[nadroj]

Mobil 4T race in my GSXR1100 caused good clutch launches but hard to select neutral (clutch didn't seem to properly engage) & Silkolene in the Hayabusa finds neutral OK but the clutch grabs on partial release on launch.

[FROSTY]

Modified my origonal post--Im talking car oil not bike specific oil.
As I understand it mobil 1 CAR oil is a synthetic oil with some friction modification.
Holden were having a shit load of trouble with rings not bedding in in their V8's -the Mobile one wouldn't let em bed in

[FROSTY]

Are you blaming Mobil 1?
Yep I sure am--Take it out put normal oil in park the bike 24 hours --it starts right as rain. -

[Kickaha]

Modified my origonal post--Im talking car oil not bike specific oil.
As I understand it mobil 1 CAR oil is a synthetic oil with some friction modification.
Holden were having a shit load of trouble with rings not bedding in in their V8's -the Mobile one wouldn't let em bed in

There was more to the problems with the Holdens than the type of oil that was being used in the motor

I used Mobil 1 car oil in my bucket for two years with no problems at all,although normally I would always use a motorcyclce oil, errrrrr except for the XJ which I just use whatever's lying around as it goes through a bit

[FROSTY]

There was more to the problems with the Holdens than the type of oil that was being used in the motor

I used Mobil 1 car oil in my bucket for two years with no problems at all,although normally I would always use a motorcyclce oil, errrrrr except for the XJ which I just use whatever's lying around as it goes through a bit
I dont doubt it mrate--but it was definitely a contributing factor.
I'd guess your bucket soesn't have a lekkie start ol son --it was the starter clutch that diddn't work. Seemed like a case of the oil was too good.

[Motu]

Motorcycle oils have more moly than car oils,you'd that would make clutches slip more.I reckon the 5/50 would be too thin at low temps.Funny stuff oil in bikes - I ran Silkoline Pro 4 10/40 in my XLV750 because 10/40 was the recommended oil,so ran that in the XT and TLR200.The TLR has always been hard to find neutral,but then when I sold the XLV used the off road 15/50 Pro 4....now the TLR is easy to find neutral,specialy when cold - you'd think the thicker oil would make it harder to find neutral.

[fizzer]

What would be the best oil to reduce clutch slippage?

[Motu]

What would be the best oil to reduce clutch slippage?

ATF,it's made for multiplate clutch packs - but not very good for your engine - wet sump bikes are such a compromise,the Poms had it right...seperate oils for engine,gearbox and clutch.Of course the correct answer is your clutch shouldn't slip - so something is wrong with it,or you have increased the power of the engine and now the clutch is too weak.

[WINJA]

I STAND BY MOBIL 1 FOR BIKES , I BELIEVE IT REPRESENTS BEST VALUE FOR MONEY , ITS CHEAPER THAN SOME OTHER BRANDS SEMIS

[Sensei]

Ran Spectra Gold in my GSXR1100 for 6 years . Dragged it the whole time excellent no clutch slipping Etc . Use Spectra Semi 10/40 in the K3 Mint

[Kiwi]

Hi guys

Can I use car engine oil in my motorbike then?????
No you can't. Well, actually you can, but all sorts of nasty things happen if you do................................
have a look at http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/engineoil_bible.html

Kiwi

[Lou Girardin]

I've used Mobil Racing 4T in our cars (with Mobils blessing) and bikes for years now without problems, but wouldn't use the car oil in a bike.

[Kickaha]

I dont doubt it mrate--but it was definitely a contributing factor.
I'd guess your bucket soesn't have a lekkie start ol son --it was the starter clutch that diddn't work. Seemed like a case of the oil was too good.


Funnily enough my bucket did have electric start which was excellent for the Le Mans starts, in the last couple of years I been using different oil and strangely enough I've had a shitload of problems (although I don't think it's related)

Main problem with the Commodores was a decrease in ring tension, although it made the local Automotive engineers a lot richer

[Motu]

Yes,driven by compulsory economy targets in the US,manufacturers have been using all sorts of tricks to lower fuel economy,one is to lower piston ring tension,which is why the Yanks use such incredibly thin oils - 5/30,5/20,0/20.Put a thicker oil like 15/40 into these motors and they burn oil,the oil film overpowers the rings.That's why most friction modified oils are made for the US market,and they are usualy below 10/30.

[EZAS]

I've only really used Mobil 1 in my cars and are yet to change the oil in my Bike. 500Km's and is due to be done next Friday.

I used to use an Oil in my efi Rotary 13bt that was Valvoline 20w / 60. I'm yet to see or hear of anyone ever using that oil? I would have thought that would make for a thick yet high temp oil?

[John]

.......thick yet high temp oil?

:bs::shifty:

[Ixion]

I've only really used Mobil 1 in my cars and are yet to change the oil in my Bike. 500Km's and is due to be done next Friday.

I used to use an Oil in my efi Rotary 13bt that was Valvoline 20w / 60. I'm yet to see or hear of anyone ever using that oil? I would have thought that would make for a thick yet high temp oil?

I use 20W/60 in the Alfatoy. Alfa recommend 5W/60 , but thats in cold Europe, and hard to get here.

[Pixie]

A flush with some old oil from mella yella and a fresh drop or two of elf oil and its right as rain.

I think the use of elf oil is an abomination.
What about the poor elves' families?
What's next baby oil? :oi-grr:

[Rhino]

ATF,it's made for multiplate clutch packs - but not very good for your engine - wet sump bikes are such a compromise,the Poms had it right...seperate oils for engine,gearbox and clutch.Of course the correct answer is your clutch shouldn't slip - so something is wrong with it,or you have increased the power of the engine and now the clutch is too weak.

I totally agree about ATF. I used it in the gearbox of every 2 stroke bike I have owned since 1970. Great clutch feel and nice smooth shifts with no slip.