Go-Pro type camera mounts?

[scumdog]

OK, for my birthday I got an Extreme brand camera, a go-pro kinda thing.

Mounted on the T-Sports handle-bars all was good until I got to 3,000rpm then it looked like CB on the Sporty on front of me was riding a pogo-stick and the guages on the T-Sport looked like they were made of jelly.

SO, how can I fit the camera so that the engine vibes don't buck it around too much??

(Await the 'sell the Harley and get Suzuki' kind of helpful advice) :wait:

[mossy1200]

On your helmet.
You may need stand up with bent knees also to absorb the vibrations.

Maybe a selfy stick.

[KoroJ]

You can get a chest harness mount, or helmet mount, but the GoPro style cameras are subject to a fair bit of drag at highway speed.

I looked at a chest harness but it wasn't great on the ST between being behind the screen and the wide angle captured too much bike.

....and then there's the stabilisation available in the likes of Power Director.....but they probably haven't advanced enough for Harleys yet.

[oneofsix]

That is an issue with bike mounting, amazing how much vibration the human body, especially the neck takes out of the shot. A problem with the head mount is that it picks up every head check. Another advantage of the head mount is that the camera picks up that interesting view you glance at.

[RogIrwin]

(Await the 'sell the Harley and get Suzuki' kind of helpful advice) :wait:

Nah, Getting a Suzuki won't help you. You might be temped to go around corners or venture off the tarmac :Punk:

The problem is the camera, Go-Pro have image stabilization software inside them.

You migh be able to try chest or helmet mounting. Your body will remove some of the vibration.

[george formby]

Mount it to something that does not rattle round. Body work, bars etc vibrate. Frame, radiator, fork legs, swing arm etc don't.

[scumdog]

Thanks people, some good hints/advice there.

It's just I've seen pics of bikes with handle-bar mounted cameras and thought that was the way to go -only I didn't notice what kind of bike they were on.

Helmet-mount seems to be the way to go.:niceone:

[george formby]

Thanks people, some good hints/advice there.

It's just I've seen pics of bikes with handle-bar mounted cameras and thought that was the way to go -only I didn't notice what kind of bike they were on.

Helmet-mount seems to be the way to go.:niceone:

Thing is with the helmet you lose the dynamic perspective, you keep your head straight. Have a play. I liked the radiator mount on my bike, bit of fork & front wheel action with plenty of view & lean perspective.
Get back to us when you start editing.

[nzspokes]

I mount mine on the top yoke of the fork. Mines a twin and very rattly. I get some distortion at lower revs but once moving it settles well.

[scumdog]

I mount mine on the top yoke of the fork. Mines a twin and very rattly. I get some distortion at lower revs but once moving it settles well.

2,900rpm is pretty close to 100kph - and right where the worst vibes linger.

And the mounting point of the bars was ideal - shows clear view of road ahead and shows the speedo & rev counter neatly tucked in the lower left.

A shame about the vibes.

[george formby]

Aaaaah, I see the problem. If the clocks are in picture with the camera on the bars then you bars are buggered. They are supposed to go cross ways. No wonder it's shakin.:msn-wink:

[JimO]

2,900rpm is pretty close to 100kph - and right where the worst vibes linger.

And the mounting point of the bars was ideal - shows clear view of road ahead and shows the speedo & rev counter neatly tucked in the lower left.

A shame about the vibes.
just sit on 140 like everybody else:bleh::bleh:

[awa355]

I purchased a suction cup mount on Saturday thinking that it would sit on the tank and with the gopro on the post about 4" above the tank would see out over the instruments. Hand on the tank while underway, I couldn't feel any vibes thru the tank, but the footage still showed the 'jelly' syndrome. One ewe tube clip showed the suction mount on the side of the tank. My fuel tank is too rounded for the suction cup to adhere to.
I haven't tried the helmet mount but cant stand viewing the continuous movements of the helmet. On my previous ride I finished up adapting a small timber L shaped bracket for the camera to mount on. Worked a treat.

I rarely keep any footage these days, but get a few interesting stills from the film.

Try looking at bicycle bar mountings. Bound to be something there that can adapt.

[p.dath]

I seems a block of silicone between the camera and the bike may do the trick as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q57e0-dc2w8

[slofox]

...the GoPro style cameras are subject to a fair bit of drag at highway speed.

Which is why I opted for the RePlay. Cylinder shape makes a big difference to drag.

I use a helmet mount. Tried fairing mount but the road noise was all picked up and created mayhem for a sound track.

I try to keep my head a little more still with the camera deployed but usually forget after two seconds. Still happy enough with the footage.

[willytheekid]

The Go-pro Chest mounts are great Scummy :yes:

...Peeteey in chch uses one and it give's great footage! - (he does the wen night runs etc)

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHgl02ATMORZHu2ODzNloHQ

Your body really is the best shock absorber on the bike (All that physical training to obtain that perfect body shape of yours pays off here mate :killingme)

[Ulsterkiwi]

you might want to try RAM mounts. They have an amazing range of mounts which are built to minimise vibration (can never be removed completely)
Helmet mount is good alright for stability but tends to provide the most boring footage. Depends on what you want.

Check out this clip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWbGjAtNq3I

there are a few different positions on different bikes on the same road, gives a fairer comparison I reckon.

I have other footage with camera mounted to peg hangers etc and they can be better than the handlebars.

[ElCoyote]

2,900rpm is pretty close to 100kph - and right where the worst vibes linger.

And the mounting point of the bars was ideal - shows clear view of road ahead and shows the speedo & rev counter neatly tucked in the lower left.

A shame about the vibes.

Therefore 3000 is 101.5. You'll die my man
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/images/smilies/bleh.gif

[scumdog]

Therefore 3000 is 101.5. You'll die my man
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/images/smilies/bleh.gif

Bad news: We all gonna die, e ven choo ally weep:

I might try a helmet mount next but still keen on mounting the camera on the bike itself.

[unstuck]

is pretty close to 100kph -

Fuckin pussy.:baby:

[scumdog]

[QUOTE=unstuck;1130831764]Fuckin pussy.:baby:[/QUOTE

Hey, I didn't say HOW fuckin close ya bloody hippy!:p

[Reckless]

Which is why I opted for the RePlay. Cylinder shape makes a big difference to drag.

I use a helmet mount. Tried fairing mount but the road noise was all picked up and created mayhem for a sound track.

I try to keep my head a little more still with the camera deployed but usually forget after two seconds. Still happy enough with the footage.

Thanks for that looks like a kiwi company to :)
After reading some info on their site I think it did come across this if it helps

Audio is too loud or too quiet on my Replay XD.
There are two audio caps supplied with your Replay XD. Both of these caps have different audio characteristics. Please feel free to experiment with these two options to obtain your desired audio quality. Optional Cap 1: To allow for recording of “voice level audio” use Optional Cap 1. This cap is designed for low noise environments i.e., Walking, Hiking, or an Automobile Cockpit. This cap option may exhibit increased wind noise in fast paced environments. Optional Cap 2: To allow for recording of “engine level audio” use Optional Cap 2. This cap is designed for high noise environments i.e., Race Cars, Motorcycles, Sky Diving, or other Outdoor Activities. This cap blocks the majority of wind noise while allowing for a natural sound level for autosports and other high noise activities. This cap may block voice level audio under approximately 80db.

[Asher]

I have found the best place to mount my gopro is on the chin of my helmet, low drag, good point of view and no vibrations

[oldguy]

suction cup to the side of the frame on the Buell, also tie a short piece string to the gopro the other end to the frame of the bike, just in case the suction cup lets go, just piece of mind.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/vbtube_show.php?tubeid=319

[caspernz]

Here's an easy approach for your problem.

http://www.ramsolutions.co.nz/lifestyle/shop/motorcycles/ram-mount

[Drew]

, but the GoPro style cameras are subject to a fair bit of drag at highway speed..
So I've been told, but when racing I've never noticed it...and we go a fuck load faster than highway speed.

[Big Dog]

If it is a screw mount putting something in between the mount and the camera helps.
A silicon tap washer worked a treat on the DR. With a heavier full size camera I needed a felt washer from a music shop.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

[Flip]

IMHO

Chest mount works best but the rozza might be able to bust your ass if the see your speed. I dont use one because the camera has to look through the big-ass roadking screen and is all blury.

I have a clamp on mount on the front on the crash bar and one stuck on the carrier frame on the rear. Remember to use a bit of string as a backup as I have had a couple of the arms fatigue and drop off.

I will post a pic of the mount when they come through the email.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1eyJ-sGrYY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INfvlg-V7lA