Newbie Bucket build

[Calvert86]

Bucket Bike Build

So after a round of Kaitoke and getting the opportunity to try my hand at bucket racing (and crashing) I've now taken the plunge and bought a road legal 2001 FXR

It's had a somewhat shady history fitted with a Yamaha ignition key and a pull cord to lift the seat it's had a rough life!

First push on the electric start and she fired up to life after her long journey down from Alan at Bikebits with the assistance of Motorcycle Movers! Engine sounded fine and she was switched off and left for a week while I went back to work and start putting together a plan of attack for the race bike build!

On returning back home I already had a few other problems to finish off so was trying to resist the urge to jump straight in on the build and making more mess in the garage! I did manage to order some crash protection from big knobs, some 33mm clipons from Mr Wong in Hong Kong and sourced a local set of renthal grips!

After a late afternoon blast out on my Triumph 675 and feeling good about getting out on the bike I felt unable to resist any longer and decided it was time to take the 150 for a spin! I tried to fire her up to go for a sneaky spin around the block unfortunately there was no life to her... Oh well first kick and she fired back into life and off around the block we went!! I loved how nimble and light she felt in comparison although she was lacking a little grunt which at least allowed me to work through a few gears legally! It was nice to get her out and blow off some of the dust which had been gathering!

After a week of trying to finish some projects around the house - unsuccessfully and less than 2 hours before having to get back to work for another week I decided to quickly strip her naked

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/d449004f9b5d2ef5c03e12dc89d4c67f.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/15/76ee692b7317eaec5f92c089ae7a2535.jpg

Big knob rear spools installed as they arrived today so bike is now happy on a paddock stand.

Back at work again now and thinking about what to do next time off to get her ready...

New shorty levers
Order tail piece from Just Fairings
Remove ignition key and tidy up wiring
Source some slicks and wider rear wheel
Paint to tidy her up and get rid of some of the rust on the frame
New fluids
Braided brake line up front
Exhaust - relocated under engine
Foot peg brackets - raised slightly and set back...template made

Contemplating keeping the rego and WOF running so may look at installing some micro indicators, small front headlights and rear brake light just for occasional trips out!??

Anyway due to work schedule I'll be missing the next 2 rounds of king of kaitoke so not a great rush to get this finished but gives me something to do and first time really stripping bikes so looking forward to learning as I go!

Will try update this as and when I make some progress!

Sorry for the long winded intro!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TZ350]

A new build, I like it.... :)

[Pumba]

Nice one. To be honest with the build list you have it is not worth keeping it on the road. Dereg it and race then you have the freedom to do what you want.


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[cotswold]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=874195408

should be doable

but ask around first

[Henk]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=874195408

should be doable

but ask around first

Looks like an impulse wheel, can't remember the axle size,on the FXR but 17mm sounds right.
If they are impulse wheels they are one of th easiest conversions possible.

[TALLIS]

Good to see another fxr destined for the track. Don't worry about keeping it road legal, waste of time consideringit'll have slicks etc and you'll end up beING able to hack it up properly as a track only bike. I admire your enthusiasm for a new bike build, I vaguely rememberwhat it like.......

[Calvert86]

Cheers for all the comments guys! Will keep an eye out for wheels!
Sure it will cost me more doing the conversion than buying a ready to race alternative but hoping it will give me a chance to learn the bike as I go which may help me to fix it when I break it also!!


Calvert86

[quallman1234]

Cheers for all the comments guys! Will keep an eye out for wheels!
Sure it will cost me more doing the conversion than buying a ready to race alternative but hoping it will give me a chance to learn the bike as I go which may help me to fix it when I break it also!!


Calvert86

Looks good james!

Don't waste your time with wheels untill you've done a few more rounds. Guys at the back of A-grade are running around on stock rims.

-Kyle

[Calvert86]

Cheers Kyle!

Will need your help with exhaust and fitting slicks anyway :-)


Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Once you decide its a race bike you can then cut off bits you don't need care free. Side stand mount rear etc.

Gear it down before first ride. Front sprocket down probably 2 teeth, Kyle will know.

[Henk]

Yep 12 on the front, JT sprocket type is 1263. Not in the standard FXR listing as that only goes down to 13.

Rear can be either 47 or 49, doesn't matter that much for Kaitoke from memory.

[Calvert86]

Thanks F5 Dave and Henk, was going to look at best gearing setup but that's now been answered thanks! Will source a new chain and rear sprocket also when changing the front... May be a nice job for next week off!


Calvert86

[Henk]

Run a cheap non o ring chain and bin it at regular intervals. Before you get a rear sprocket have a look at what they are running at Kaitoke since I'm no expert on that track and it may make a difference I don't know about.

As an aside I used to run 49 clockwise at my Wellington and 47 anti clockwise. It did make a difference and with two sets of chain adjusters and two sprocket carriers was a super quick change over.

[Pumba]

It did make a difference and with two sets of chain adjusters and two sprocket carriers was a super quick change over.

I am surprised you bothered changing and didn't just set up a clockwise and anticlockwise bike

[Henk]

Not enough fast engines.

[quallman1234]

I'm running like 12-41.. But thats because i have stuipd sized sprockets (415 RS Wheels) and the rears are really hard to get in bigger sizes and you can't really go smaller than a 12, smaller than that and your almost on the output shaft!

Just run 12-47 or something. Or even just run 12 and whatever is on the rear standard to save some money. It doesn't really change fuck all i've found at Kaitoke. Apart from which 2 or 3 gears you use. Shorter gearing you could be using 3rd and 4th, longer gearing you'll be use 2nd and 3rd. No huge gains at kaitoke :).

[Henk]

In that case go 12 49 for better out of control wheelies off the start line.

[Calvert86]

Cheers guys sounds like that's the gearing taken care of! Now to get it ordered ready for when I get home on weds!


Calvert86

[John_H]

Cheers guys sounds like that's the gearing taken care of! Now to get it ordered ready for when I get home on weds!


Calvert86

I run 11 48 which is great. I use gears 4,5 and 6. Works really well for me and apparently there is more torque in the top gears, but I don't know how true that is.

[Calvert86]

Thanks John,

Any shop recommendations for purchasing chain and sprockets I can place an order with or generally people just using Internet?


Calvert86

[John_H]

Thanks John,

Any shop recommendations for purchasing chain and sprockets I can place an order with or generally people just using Internet?


Calvert86

TSS have always been pretty good for me.

[koba]

Thanks John,

Any shop recommendations for purchasing chain and sprockets I can place an order with or generally people just using Internet?


Calvert86

Yeah mate, Support our Sponsors and nip down to your local:

Lower Hutt:
TSS Redbaron
Motomart

Wellington City:
Scooterazzi
Motorad

Johnsonville:
Richards Motorcycle Services

[Calvert86]

Quick update on the build this week...

Not a lot achieved but bike completely stripped:-
Forks out
Engine out
Wiring harness removed

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/29/f99e3aea48288638a69edef33e7171e3.jpg

This is how I left her heading back to work!!
Wiring harness is with me and plan to cut that down to the minimum.

Order placed with TSS for an 11 and 12t front sprocket and a new chain rear sprocket looks in good condition and as finding replacement sizes seems to be difficult will run the standard one for now!

Braided brake lines arrived as I was walking out the door today!

So....

Question now is since I've stripped it this far should I look to powder coat the frame? Any ideas where in Wellington area and rough costs?
Should I just go with my initial plan of rattle cans?

Next week off will hopefully involve the following:-

Clean and de-rust
New fluids for engine, forks and brakes
Decide on whether to paint frame or powder coat
Fit new chain and sprocket

Try figure out how it all goes back together

Under slung exhaust...with the assistance of Kyle hopefully ;-)

Cheers for reading!


Calvert86

[mossy1200]

Polished frame is lighter. Strip it and polish. Powdercoat will add 300+ grams. You can polish 500 grams away from what you have easy.

[Pumba]

Personally I would give the frame a good clean and hit it with some rattle can paint. Did mine this way a few years ago. Sure it has rubbed in a few places and is probably due for a touch up, but has lasted pretty well for however much it was.

[F5 Dave]

Cut off side stand mount and look to see what you can cut off the back when you for a race seat which you might decide to reposition. Serious degrease and rattle cans.

[Pumba]

Cut off side stand mount.......

Why? They are a great hole for using a triangle motocross stand in when you cant be arsed using a full paddock stand.

I am not aware of mine even coming close to the track in and off.

[Henk]

Why? They are a great hole for using a triangle motocross stand in when you cant be arsed using a full paddock stand.

I am not aware of mine even coming close to the track in and off.

I have left them on, not a crash hazard but probably weight 30g.

[Pumba]

My bike has bigger weight issues.......

[Calvert86]

Thanks Mossy for the weight saving advice...will probably just scratch off the rust and opt for a rattle can approach!
F5 Dave I will take a grinder to some of the frame mountings before the paint but not sure about the side stand mount... At this point the side stand is the last thing on and the bolt holding seems a bit resilient to come out so will see next week how it goes! If I can't get the side stand off I will have to take a grinder to the mount!

Have people repositioned the CDI etc from the back of the bike? Just wondering if I relocate them I could remove the small brackets holding them in place?


Calvert86

[Pumba]

Have people repositioned the CDI etc from the back of the bike? Just wondering if I relocate them I could remove the small brackets holding them in place?

Yea mate. You can pretty much put it wherever you want

[Calvert86]

Thanks Pumba!


Calvert86

[Henk]

run a zip tie through the wires at the plug for the CDI and around the CDI itself, these connections aren't always the most reliable for some reason, I've seen bike refuse to start after a crash because the connection was a little off.

[Calvert86]

run a zip tie through the wires at the plug for the CDI and around the CDI itself, these connections aren't always the most reliable for some reason, I've seen bike refuse to start after a crash because the connection was a little off.

Thanks for the tip!!


Calvert86

[koba]

Yea mate. You can pretty much put it wherever you want

That isn't too hot.

[Pumba]

That isn't too hot.

Thought I had covered that off with the "pretty much":bleh: Although I will admit I did have images in my head after the post of him strapping to the head or hard up against the exhaust manifold and them complaining about how is bike wont run anymore.

Think of it has an intelligence test.

[Calvert86]

Cheers for the votes of confidence guys!!


Calvert86

[chrisc]

Yea mate...put it wherever you want

the tip!!

That is... hot.

...I...have images in my head ...of him strapping to the head or hard up against ...and them complaining...

You guys are sick

[Henk]

You guys are sick

This is somehow news?

[Gadget1]

You guys are sick



Heh, it reminded me a bit of the days of "Ask for some striped paint" or a "Left hand screwdriver" etc...

[Calvert86]

Heh, it reminded me a bit of the days of "Ask for some striped paint" or a "Left hand screwdriver" etc...

Or a "long weight"!!?


Calvert86

[Pumba]

You guys are sick

Although Henk has a strong point with his statement. You are the sick prick that picked out all those quotes.


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[Calvert86]

So...I have a carb question!
Standard is Mikuni 29... Popular seems to be off GN250 which is a Mikuni 34

So my question is if I was looking to buy a new one what brand and size should I look for?
Just looking for ways to spend money while at work!


Calvert86

[Askor]

30mm OKO is better :msn-wink:

[Henk]

OKO 28 or 30.

But get an OKO not a knock off of a knock off.
Of course if you can get one cheap enough get a real PWK keihin.

[Calvert86]

Thanks guys I will start looking at the OKO and Keihin options


Calvert86

[Askor]

I just sold a 38mm Keihin PWK on trademe, was thinking it would be a laugh to try and fit it to my fxr

[Calvert86]

Well not a very productive night at work but that does mean I've done the wiring loom!

I've decided to keep wires in for dash, gear indication, speedo and fuel as I'm not sure whether I will run it or not so decided was best to leave in place for now!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/02/6e4c1fac6a13b3d48a8baae36cca65b1.jpg

And here's the wiring diagram with what I've kept highlighted! Might be of use to someone in the future?




http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/02/6ddbc627b4223d2f385809b45b80e359.jpg


Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Do you first races without the dash. Realise it is only a distraction, and then sell it on TM for important after racing beer funds.

[Calvert86]

Thanks Dave! What about the rev limiter? Is this controlled through the CDI? Could loose half the wires again if I ditch all the dash integration!


Calvert86

[Pumba]

Thanks Dave! What about the rev limiter? Is this controlled through the CDI? Could loose half the wires again if I ditch all the dash integration!


Calvert86

Rev limiter is controlled through the smoke in the CDI (when the smoke gets out it doesn't work anymore). I did exactly what you did the first time I built my bike and had a truck load of wires floating around that never ever got used.

When I rewired it last time I put everything in this stuff http://www.techflex.co.nz/flexo-pet.html . Made it all nice and tidy.

[Henk]

I did close to what you did the first time. I left the dash in minus the house lot of wiring for the gear indicator, all I wanted was the tacho. One day after a crash the dash mounts all broke, so I threw it in the parts box since I never looked at it anyway and it's only remaining function was to add some heavy.
The only real questions that need to be asked re wiring is are you organised enough to charge a battery to run total loss or would you rather go idiot proof and run the ignition off the charging system instead.

[Calvert86]

Rev limiter is controlled through the smoke in the CDI (when the smoke gets out it doesn't work anymore). I did exactly what you did the first time I built my bike and had a truck load of wires floating around that never ever got used.

When I rewired it last time I put everything in this stuff http://www.techflex.co.nz/flexo-pet.html . Made it all nice and tidy.

Thanks Pumba that stuff looks pretty cool! May have a look at getting some of that then! Look better than the green insulation tape I found lying around!


Calvert86

[Calvert86]

I did close to what you did the first time. I left the dash in minus the house lot of wiring for the gear indicator, all I wanted was the tacho. One day after a crash the dash mounts all broke, so I threw it in the parts box since I never looked at it anyway and it's only remaining function was to add some heavy.
The only real questions that need to be asked re wiring is are you organised enough to charge a battery to run total loss or would you rather go idiot proof and run the ignition off the charging system instead.

Thanks Henk,

Pretty sure I could manage to charge a battery once every month...famous last words of course! Can you offer some advice on this?

I will look at removing the wiring for the dash also then!


Calvert86

[Henk]

To be honest the only reason I'm running total loss is that I bought an engine set up that way, I have no idea how much power it gains, every bucket I built myself I kept the charging system instead on the grounds that losing a HP or so was more than made up for by the fact that I might miss a meeting through a brain fart. I have regularly loaned people chargers at the track because the either forgot or had an issue with a battery that was slowly dying.

[F5 Dave]

I've seen many people screw around with failing or forgotten batteries. Looks tedious. Push and ride unless you are supported by someone competent.

[Askor]

Running total loss on a single cylinder bike like the good ol' fxr would only net you a fraction of a horse more power. You may as well lay off a few pies instead. It does however mean you can take the magnets off the flywheel, allowing the engine to spin up faster, increasing torque ATW slightly (or so I understand it).

Don't go total loss, you'll regret it later. Just run a capacitor in place of the battery and be done with it.

[Calvert86]

Thanks guys...yeah I think I'll keep it as is for now! Will probably finish tidying the wires and loose the dash so that should half the loom again!
Ditch the battery will save some weight and should be fool proof for me!!

Don't really feel like stripping magnets off flywheels etc as I don't really understand all that stuff!

I could lay off the pies and beers to help save more weight but there's no fun in that either!


Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Mmm'. Pies

[Henk]

Mmmm beer......

[Askor]

Mmmmm buckets,

[Bert]

Mmmm beer......

Mmmmm pies and beer....:innocent:

The other side of the coin.
Total loss vs. charge circuit.
Plenty of issues with charging circuits as well. Regular failures, broken wires etc.
Does come down to how you want to manage things, hot swapping batteries works for us (99% of the time).
Removing the total charging circuit only yields ~ 1 Hp but everywhere... And acceleration is improved.

However,if your just starting off keep it simple and have fun racing. Worry about the bike performance later on: the rider is still the main under performing part of the system.:msn-wink:

[Calvert86]

Mmmmm pies and beer....:innocent:

The other side of the coin.
Total loss vs. charge circuit.
Plenty of issues with charging circuits as well. Regular failures, broken wires etc.
Does come down to how you want to manage things, hot swapping batteries works for us (99% of the time).
Removing the total charging circuit only yields ~ 1 Hp but everywhere... And acceleration is improved.

However,if your just starting off keep it simple and have fun racing. Worry about the bike performance later on: the rider is still the main under performing part of the system.:msn-wink:

Thanks Bert, definitely not writing it off as a future mod when looking to improve bikes performance but for now will just try keep things simple and get some track time to help improve my ability!


Calvert86

[speedpro]

Charging circuit might provide 200W. Not allowing for inefficiency you might be down 200W in power. The big gain will be a reduction in crank inertia if you lose the rotor. This will improve acceleration by an immeasureably small amount. Where I've found it beneficial is being able to snap down the gearbox and having the motor respond instantly to every blip while doing it and thereby not upsetting the bike when changing down and tipping into a corner.

[Calvert86]

So bike is now in more pieces but we're starting to make progress and itching to move on with the build and see it all finished and back together!! Unfortunately these things can't be rushed and I want to do it right which slows it down occasionally!

Yesterday the swing arm was polished and majority of the frame. Rear pax pegs were grounded off and this is where it's been left!
I now need to decide where to cut the rear frame on the bike, what holders to grind off and relocate and also purchase a socket drive for the 30mm socket I bought to remove the triple clamp!

Today I really wanted to take it slow as I realised I wasn't going to get the bike painted before the weekend! So I spent the morning sanding back the front wheel fender and the fuel tank ready for painting...this seemed to take most of the morning!

I resisted the urge to get primer on the fender and fuel tank and lower fork bracket as I may as well wait till I've managed to break the steering column down and do it all in one shoot!

I then went back to trying to remove the exhaust from the engine with no luck...it seems to be rusted in very well so not sure what to do about this at the moment...I walked away!

Quickly assembled the right handlebar to see how all the new parts look! New master cylinder, HEL brake line, renthal grips! All looks very nice shame the rest of the bike is in pieces!!

Anyway hopefully by the end of the week off will have a rolling chassis to look at! Still not decided on final colours and still need to order seat from just fairings!

Did manage to pick up new chain and the front sprockets I'd ordered from TSS song with some fork oil and brake fluid so those joBs may be attacked early next week!?

Friday afternoon so time for a beer and hopefully make some more progression Monday!
Cheers!


Calvert86

[Calvert86]

Need some assistance/ recommendations on removing the exhaust! Bolts are removed but can't get it to come free from the engine and have wasted far too many hours on this now so can anyone recommend any suggestions? I've tried hitting it with a big hammer!


Calvert86

[Askor]

Need some assistance/ recommendations on removing the exhaust! Bolts are removed but can't get it to come free from the engine and have wasted far too many hours on this now so can anyone recommend any suggestions? I've tried hitting it with a big hammer!


Calvert86

Crowbar

312420

:shifty:

[Henk]

Have you removed all the bolts?

From memory. One by the muffler, two at the head on one about half way down the header.

[Calvert86]

Yeah all bolts are removed and engine is out of the frame. 2 bolts holding the flange on removed and looks like the header doesn't sit flush!

Thanks Askor will break out a bigger crowbar!


Calvert86

[F5 Dave]

Heat if you can

[Calvert86]

Build to date

Bike completely stripped
Frame cleaned and sanded back
Frame painted matte black
Engine starter motor removed
Exhaust cut and new muffler mounted under the bike
Engine painted gloss black
New oko 28mm carb and air filter added
Wiring harness reduced to minimum
Braided brake lines fitted
New clutch lever
Clipons fitted
Complete crash protection fired to kart track standard
Steering bearings replaced
Fork oil changed
New engine oil
Tail unit cut and mounting bracket made
Fuel tank sanded back to bare metal
Fuel filler replaced
Front fender painted matte black
Fuel tank and rear fender painted white


That's the positives
Unfortunately I've run out of time and am off to UK for 6 weeks so list still to do...

New chain and sprocket to fit
Make a new throttle cable
Actually get the bike started...tried kicking over briefly today but not going so could be one of many things that have been altered!
Tidy up all wiring once she is running!
Lower fairing to paint

Learn how to ride properly!


http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/64e4b03b32af62476fe3980242ad1c24.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/23/db89a91910cd938de898c57e42edb2b4.jpg


Calvert86

[mr bucketracer]

i like the seat (-;

[Calvert86]

Cheers! Took a bit of cutting but it's all starting to come together!! Just at the moment it's a heavy push bike!!


Calvert86