Left hand rear brake (LHRB)

[Tazz]

Who's got one?

I've been eyeing up a Rekluse unit but reviews on the new ones are not overly kind, and it's also $299 USD :eek: for what looks to be a pretty lacking cylinder size.

Clarke have some interesting ones, but at even higher prices and they are massive (think clutch and brake one was $1200).

I thought about doing a cable one to the existing rear master cylinder instead. Should be less spendy and no tricky bleeding.

Discovered this little guy which would be the easy option (and at $149 USD is a more justifiable price), but no dice for straight bolt on to my bike: http://www.oxbrake.com/product/ox-brake-lhrb/

Can also get fittings to tee into the brake line (yeah nah) or to remove/extend the reservoir to one on the bar and having two cylinders, which has its potential problems but seems to be the route a lot of stunters take.

[bart]

What are you talking about??? You've totally lost me......:crazy:

[bart]

Ohhh, a left hand rear brake. That makes more sense. Sorry, can't help.

[ducatijim]

Shout ya self a postie bike buddy....
They cum standard with a smart wee LHRB!!!!
Trust Honda.

[R650R]

Ohhh, a left hand rear brake. That makes more sense. Sorry, can't help.

They come in handy when your left knee is on the deck and you've started to get off the bike as the front end is tucking but you'd like to tame the rear wheelspin a tad at same time but your right foot is off the peg...
Useful to riders like Doohan, Schwantz and Denniso but not for mere mortals like me :)

[Night Falcon]

wonder how may blokes have bitten the dust instinctively going for the break pedal that's know longer there :doh:

[pete-blen]

thats quite a simple build & still retain the foot brake...

[Muzz67]

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1120867-how-to-make-hand-brake-rear-master-linkpoor-mans-way/

[Padmei]

Tazz if you're gonna continue doing dumb shit like this to your bikes at least do what most of us have done - get an airhead

[Tazz]

wonder how may blokes have bitten the dust instinctively going for the break pedal that's know longer there :doh:

You keep the rear. The old Rekluse system ditched it, and it is easier to ditch it, but most the accidents were from people trying out their mates bike rather than owners. Could be a bit of fun for the WOF guy too :laugh:

The new rekluse one one is apparently a MTB lever (Clarke or something?).


http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1120867-how-to-make-hand-brake-rear-master-linkpoor-mans-way/

http://www.hoheydesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=199

Noice. Was looking at that hohey part last night which he mentions. I think I like the simplicity of just having an extra pivot on the bottom of the existing rear slave. Will see what someone smarter than me at work thinks :laugh:

I also read of someone switching their hydro clutch lever to the brake and using the mtb one for the clutch instead.

[Tazz]

Tazz if you're gonna continue doing dumb shit like this to your bikes at least do what most of us have done - get an airhead

Give me another 50 years, and then maybe :laugh:

Nothing dumb about it though, maybe 'lazy', but I've already dropped it once on a hill due to the lack of it being in gear not doing anything now.
Unless you're still rocking suicide gear shifting and a rigid wooden frame technology moves on. Wait, how old are those airheads? :bleh:

[Tazz]

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q11/bigbadwulff/IMG_20140818_211754677_zpsvojmpt4p.jpg

An agricultural version of this is the go with a wee decompression lever for it or vice versa with the clutch ;)

Looked at a encased set of pulleys/rollers but this is nice and simple.

[Night Falcon]

Since owning a trials bike I've come to respect the skills needed to operate a clutch properly. The front rear break is an interesting idea, got one on my treadly....good for doing power slides :shifty:

[Big Dog]

If you go for something with a master cylinder bigger is not always better.
Bigger can just mean less control as they normally have bigger screws pushing more fluid and the rear is blinding easy to overcome.

+1 to mean skids.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

[Muzz67]

That cable operated system looks a fairly simple way of doing it,, however , its actual power is doubtful surely?

[pete-blen]

That cable operated system looks a fairly simple way of doing it,, however , its actual power is doubtful surely?

could be more.... could be less.... all depends on the leverage ratio you use...

[Tazz]

That cable operated system looks a fairly simple way of doing it,, however , its actual power is doubtful surely?

Yep, has been the point of discussion with someone much smarter than me here at work.
Going to make it as long as practically possible as I'm not even sure you could lock the rear with the foot pedal using your hand.
Still meandering a pulley/s in there as I know from winching 4x4's snatch blocks make a fooking amazing difference on load, so same principle and all, but the simpler the better.
The other problem is making sure there is enough travel to actually fully engage it.
I forget the measurements and I'm sure there is some adjustment in there, but the foot pedal on this bike has a fair bit of travel from lightly engaged to locked.

Not my forte but fun fun :sweatdrop

[Tazz]

If you go for something with a master cylinder bigger is not always better.
Bigger can just mean less control as they normally have bigger screws pushing more fluid and the rear is blinding easy to overcome.

+1 to mean skids.


Stupid phone / Tapatalk, apologies in advance.

Yeah part of it is also the amount of fluid it holds and it's relation to pad wear. Almost any motorbike one would be fine I'm sure but there was talk about MTB ones (like the new Rekluse option) not having enough fluid to avoid needing a top up as the pads wear.
If that holds any truth I don't know, but users of the MTB ones also report not having enough force to lock the rear either.

[Muzz67]

Prob I see with cable is that there may only be 12-15mm length of pull at the handlebar lever, and that may be needed to be doubled at the end of the footbrake exteder thingy,, halving the hand-levers power.
pulleys etc to increase power would also need more pull length at the hand lever end.

Not trying to be negative, just constuctive.
can def see the benefits of a hand brake.

[Tazz]

Yeah cheers for the feedback. It's a cheap success or failure either way. I remember seeing some trick but simple double pull lever contraption on a friends grass cart years ago, might be worth a phone call depending how it comes together.
I've also seen lever pulleys somewhere that pivot under load to pick up slack? They work as a pair.
Anyway, will just start basic as and work from there..

[nzspokes]

An agricultural version of this is the go with a wee decompression lever for it or vice versa with the clutch ;)

Looked at a encased set of pulleys/rollers but this is nice and simple.

That is brilliant. Im going to make one. Easy. To test leverage I would pull down on the foot part of the lever and see how far along you need to be to lock the brake with little effort.

Bicycle brake levers come in different leverage ratios. So get one to suit.

[nzspokes]

Im going to start on this tomorrow. Hard part as I see is mounting the cable outer for my bike. But may have just come up with an idea.

I have the plan for the lever on the that goes on the foot brake lever. And I have bicycle brake levers in 3 different ratios.

It will either work or it wont but worth a crack.

[Tazz]

Im going to start on this tomorrow. Hard part as I see is mounting the cable outer for my bike. But may have just come up with an idea.

I have the plan for the lever on the that goes on the foot brake lever. And I have bicycle brake levers in 3 different ratios.

It will either work or it wont but worth a crack.


http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/shrek/images/d/d1/Puss_in_Boots_1.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20091230233249

Make 2 of everything? :laugh: Keep us updated :niceone:

I'm going to start next week all going to plan. Might make the pivot out of plastic too as there is more scrap of that kicking about than metal.

Cool about the ratios, didn't know about that. Chur!

[Muzz67]

http://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/301171310.jpg

[nzspokes]

Yeah I think I would need a fair bit of leverage. That wont give it.

[Trials Rider]

Hi Guys

CLAKE now offer the SLR (Staggered Lever Retrofit) which can be used with the foot pedal or by itself, it will fit straight over the Brembo master cylinders, this is the web link

http://www.motomox.co.nz/shop/show_single_product.php?prod=83

Above is the SLR which uses your standard master cylinder, I have the CLAKE 2 which is an integrated system on my Beta 498 and love it :niceone:, http://www.motomox.co.nz/shop/show_single_product.php?prod=84 you can adjust it to have both levers working independently or complete as one lever action, on the road I adjust it back so I have independant levers and off road I adjust it up for one lever action, if any of you are coming through kaiapoi you are welcome to try it out on my Beta (as long as you bring my bike back :shit:)

[MarkH]

Who's got one?

I used to have a Burgman 400 - that came standard with a left hand rear brake.

[Muzz67]

I used to have a Burgman 400 - that came standard with a left hand rear brake.
Did it have a manual clutch too?

[MarkH]

Did it have a manual clutch too?

Geez, you want everything?

[Muzz67]

Geez, you want everything?
no, I want to know if it has a nifty integrated clutch/brake perch/lever set-up suitable for a lhrb.

[MarkH]

no, I want to know if it has a nifty integrated clutch/brake perch/lever set-up suitable for a lhrb.

Nah, the burg 400 is a big scooter with auto clutch and continuously variable transmission - no need of a clutch lever at all.

[pete-blen]

Nah, the burg 400 is a big scooter with auto clutch and continuously variable transmission - no need of a clutch lever at all.

I have a 660cc & 250cc postie bikes but they do have manual clutchs
aswell if you wish to use them..




.

[Tazz]

Nah, the burg 400 is a big scooter with auto clutch and continuously variable transmission - no need of a clutch lever at all.
How are they plumbed in out of interest? I assume there is a footbrake too.
Unless you're suggesting a cvt install for under 300 usd is the answer? Piece of cake :bleh: